A strip of cement- sand mortar laid by two workers, leveling the laid mortar with a shovel, after which they smooth the surface of the mortar using rule (vibrating screed) 3 or a trowel, making zigzag movements. If after one pass of the rule there are still unsmoothed areas, the smoothing is repeated. The strips are made up to 2 m wide and are performed alternately, after the cement-sand mortar has set in the previously laid strips, and the edges of the finished strips are used as beacons (Fig. 10.1).

Rice. 10.1 Installation of screeds on beacon strips a - leveling cement-sand mortar; b-grater for leveling; 1 - lighthouse batten; 2 – fresh strip of screed; 3 – rule; 4 – box for solution;
5 – finished screed; 6 – intermediate strips are filled after removing the slats

When performing work, you should take into account the construction of temperature-expansion joints (temperature-shrinkage joint) in the following cases:
- if the building’s length or width is more than 60m;
- at the junction of roofing bases with different coefficients of linear expansion (concrete floor slabs adjacent to a base made of galvanized corrugated sheeting);
- the roof is adjacent to the wall of a neighboring building;
- in places where the direction of laying the building frame elements, purlins, beams and roof base elements changes;
- in places of change temperature regime indoors.

To reduce the likelihood of roof leakage through an expansion joint, it is necessary to form slopes on the roof in such a way that water goes into different sides from expansion joint. When installing expansion joints, it is best to tear the roofing carpet (Fig. 10.2). Rolled rubber can be used as a vapor barrier membrane in the construction of an expansion joint.

Fig. 10.2 Expansion joint

For high-quality execution of the junction of the roof with vertical surface it is necessary to install a transition edge or a smooth transition (fillet or Tekhnoruf B60 fillet) (Fig. 10.3) from cement-sand mortar. According to SNiP II-26-76 “Roofing”, clause 2.21, “the transition side must be made at an angle of 45° with a height of at least 100 mm. The fillet must be made along a radius of R=100mm.”

A fillet or transition edge allows for high-quality gluing of seams and layers of material at the transition to a vertical surface. Another purpose of a fillet or transition edge can be considered to equalize temperature fields at the intersection of two surfaces. Therefore, from this point of view, it is necessary to arrange a transition side of at least 150 mm, and a fillet along the radius of at least 150 mm.

Rice. 10.3 Transition (circle).

At the junction of the floor/wall structure, where two planes are connected at right angles, problems arise. high voltage, due to dynamic fluctuations and thermal expansion/shrinkage deformations.

To compensate for the loads at the junction of the floor/wall and to prevent subsequent defects in the layers of waterproofing materials, a fillet is made from cement mortar(fillet).

Solution

To compensate for stress, a fillet is made of cement mortar (fillet) using waterproofing repair material and elastic waterproofing tape.

Technology of work execution

Preparing the base

At the wall-floor junction, a groove is made to a depth of at least 20 mm.

The seam and joint surfaces are cleaned of substances that reduce the adhesion strength of the fillet to the base: dirt, dust, oils, grease, paint, rust. Peeling, destroyed elements and cement laitance are removed mechanically, water blasting or sandblasting installation.

Before installing fillets from cement mortar (fillets), the surfaces of the seam and joint must be dull-moist, without shine.

Cement mortar fillet. Application technology.

To fill the embroidered seam, a waterproofing material is applied to the wall/floor junction with a layer width exceeding the width of the waterproofing tape by 2-3 cm.

A waterproofing tape is placed into the fresh layer and pressed in with a smooth spatula or roller. When laying the tape, avoid stretching, distortion and the formation of air cavities. The joints of the tape are laid with an overlap of at least 5 cm.

After laying the waterproofing tape, a second layer of waterproofing is applied to form a fillet of cement mortar measuring 30x30 mm with a rounding radius of at least 20 mm.

The subsequent application of waterproofing coatings is carried out by placing it on the created fillet.

Care of the surface of fillets made of cement mortar (fillets)

It is necessary to ensure moisture maintenance of the applied fillet to prevent rapid drying of the surface and the risk of cracking within 24 hours under normal conditions, and when exposed to direct sunlight and wind within 48 hours. To protect the surface, it is recommended to use a film-forming composition.

Quite often fillets are used in repairs today; you should find out what they are before visiting the store. These interior elements are a kind of plinth, and are located at the junction between the ceiling and the wall. At the same time, it is possible to hide errors that could have been made during finishing. The fillet is classified according to its material of manufacture and design, this will be discussed below, as well as the installation work.

Features of the fillet

A fillet is a room finishing element that can be used to hide gaps and unevenness in ceiling-wall corners. By using of this product You can give the room a complete look. Fillets can be made from different materials, this allows us to distinguish several varieties. Galleys differ from skirting boards in that they usually do not have cable ducts, and their installation is carried out in the upper part of the room.

Main types of fillets

If you are interested in fillets, what they are, you should know. In order to answer this question, it is necessary to become more familiar with the materials used in these products. For example, foam fillets are the most common today, because their cost is reasonable, and installation can be done by hand. Such products can be installed in any room, it can be a bathroom or kitchen, as well as a living room.

Over time, the foam does not turn yellow; it copes well with fluctuations in humidity and temperature. Such fillets weigh very little, so any composition can be used to glue them, it can be putty, alabaster or construction adhesive. To cut such a plinth, there is no need to purchase a special tool; an ordinary sharp stationery or construction knife. The disadvantage is fragility.

Polyurethane fillets and gypsum products

If you also decide to use fillets in repairs, you should find out what they are. For example, polyurethane products are very similar in appearance to foam products, but polyurethane is more durable and flexible, so it can be used even on rounded surfaces. The advantage is excellent resistance to mechanical damage. In addition, such material does not crumble. However, there are also disadvantages, which are expressed in more impressive weight compared to foam, so silicone or acrylic glue should be used for installation.

Quite often when registering modern interiors fillets are used, what they are, you should find out if you also decide to follow the experience of the majority. Thus, on sale you can find gypsum products, which are classic. They are not so common today, the reason is their significant weight, as well as the ability to install only on putty, gypsum mortar and alabaster.

Wooden fillets

One more classic version fillets are ceiling wooden crafts, but they are used quite rarely and only when the walls have wooden elements. These fillets have a plus, which is expressed in an attractive and elegant appearance. However, it is quite difficult to install which products, and you need to use screws or nails for this. The products are expensive, and the cracks that have formed have to be covered with putty.

Plastic fillets

A fairly common option today are plastic fillets; they come complete with corner elements that simplify the installation process. Installation work will not be accompanied by difficulties, and even a beginner can cope with it House master. Such products are durable, they can be produced in imitation of different natural materials, it can be wood or marble.

Carrying out installation

Ceiling fillets must be installed according to a certain algorithm. For example, plastic and wooden skirting boards on single-tier ceilings, which have previously been whitewashed or painted with water-based emulsion, are installed mechanically; for this, you can use nails spaced 30-50 cm apart from each other. Self-tapping screws can only be used when the walls are made of natural wood or drywall.

You can simply stick fillets on the ceiling if they are made of foam plastic. Liquid nails are usually used for this. Polyurethane products somewhat heavier, so they must be installed against the wall. In this case, when choosing an adhesive, you must consult a specialist. They usually recommend purchasing adhesives:

• "Titanium".
• "Installation".
• "Europlast".
• "Moment.

The glue is applied to the back side of the plinth, the composition is then left to dry for some time, only then can the fillet be glued to the surface. All gaps, cracks and joints on final stage filled with acrylic sealant or putty with the same composition. The main thing is to ensure that the mixture does not leak onto the front surface of the product.

Types of fillets for the bathroom

Bathroom fillets, the types of which will be presented below, eliminate the occurrence of fungal infections and mold. In addition, it also plays a major role, expressed in decorating the joints of the ceiling and walls. Such skirting boards are usually made of plastic, so they can have absolutely any color. Bath fillers are usually made of polystyrene, polyurethane and foam.

The first option is good because it is safe for human health. The cheapest are foam products; they are quite easy to install and clean. The main disadvantage in this case is the possibility of destruction of the material under the influence chemical substances. Bath fillers made of polyurethane are durable and flexible, as well as the highest cost. If we're talking about Regarding plastic fillets, they are usually made of foamed PVC or hard plastic. If we compare them with products made from natural wood and foam, then plastic wins in terms of strength and flexibility. You can install the plastic fillet using sealant.

Features of installing fillets in a bathroom

In order to determine required quantity fillets for a bathroom, you need to calculate the perimeter and divide it by 2. This will allow you to find out how many fillets you need to purchase, because each product has a length of 2 m. If you are thinking about the question of how to glue fillets, you should know that their installation is usually carried out a day after purchase, this is due to the fact that the material must adapt to room temperature. The location of the fillets should be such as to minimize the number of joints, this especially applies to the visible area. It is first recommended to draw up a diagram where each fillet will have its place.

Preparing tools for installation

If you have purchased a fillet for the bathroom, you must ensure that all necessary tools, among them:

• ladder;
• miter box;
• putty knife;
• ruler;
• roulette.

Installation instructions

First, you need to place the baseboard against the wall to make sure that its width covers the entire gap. At the first fillet, you need to cut an angle of 45° using a miter box. For each inner side glue should be applied, one side of the product will be fixed to the ceiling, the other to the wall. As soon as the plinth is placed in the intended place, it must be pressed down a little, while ensuring that the product is not damaged. It is important to eliminate dents and dirty spots.

Hearing in hardware store an unfamiliar term, people wonder: “What is fillet?” One of finishing touches home renovation is the installation of ceiling plinths.
This decorative detail covers the joint between the wall and the ceiling, thereby hiding minor defects.

In contact with

Differences between fillets

The fillet plinth differs from all types of this kind of decor in that it has two surfaces that adjoin the wall and ceiling at an angle of 90 degrees, It has an L-shape and is attached to the corner of the joint.

What is the difference between ceiling molding and floor plinth:

The floor plinth covers the joint between the floor and the wall, while the ceiling plinth is adjacent directly to the wall, at the junction of the wall and the ceiling. The fillet, or also called a baguette, is attached to a corner, one side to the wall, the other to the ceiling.

What is the difference between a ceiling plinth and a ceiling plinth:

Ceiling molding has one straight surface that is attached to the wall surface. It performs a separating function.

Moldings are used to highlight individual walls; they are more versatile in use.

Ceiling plinths are used only at the junctions of the wall and ceiling.

Ceiling fillet - a significant decorative element, it gives compositional completeness to the design of the ceiling and wall, and also provides a smooth transition between the two surfaces.

They differ in the materials from which they are made, sizes, and decorative styles.

Classification by types of materials:

The difference between a fillet and a ceiling plinth is rather in terminology; professionals often use the first name.

Prices for fillets

Illuminated fillet

For interesting design solutions Illuminated fillet is used. The essence of this design is that in the part that should be adjacent to the ceiling, a special niche is made into which LED lighting is inserted. Such elements are made from polyurethane. The ceiling plinth is attached to the wall. When using this decor, the perimeter of the ceiling is illuminated. Using special modules, you can change the backlight color.

How to choose the right fillets

Builders use a fillet to hide the gap with a ceiling plinth. For designers, this is, first of all, decorative element.

Attention! When choosing the type of fillets, you need to take into account the design style, the size of the room, and material capabilities.

For rooms with low ceilings, it is not recommended to use wide ceiling plinths, since visually it lowers them even lower. But if you use a laconic, narrow fillet with a built-in LED backlight, then you can, on the contrary, “raise” the ceiling.

Stretch ceilings also contribute to this. It is only necessary that their boundaries begin behind the backlit slot, since the reflective surface will mirror the lighting.

A classic interior involves the use of decors that imitate stucco.

They look especially stylish in combination with wall moldings, ceiling rosettes, and pilasters. The higher and more spacious room, the more impressive the decorative elements look. Polyurethane relief elements are tinted with gold and silver.

Important! For luxury renovations, you can make designer ceiling plinths from plaster or wood. Thus, sculptors are invited to reconstruct ancient manor houses. They cast individual elements, restoring their originality.

Wooden fillets are part of the interior decor, which should be in harmony with, sheathed with various types of wood, carved furniture, tapestry. They are tinted to match the color of the main ensemble.

For budget repairs foam fillets are used. Their range is quite diverse. Even people who have no previous experience in finishing work can glue them.

What is this in fillet construction? This is both a spectacular decor and at the same time practical way hide defects in the junction of the ceiling and the wall.

The installation of fillets and installation begins with the preparation of the necessary tools.

The most difficult moment in attaching skirting boards is joining the corners, external and internal.

In order to fit them correctly, you will need a device such as a miter box. This is an inexpensive corner cutting device.

You also need a hacksaw for metal with fine teeth.

Cutting out the internal corners

The plinth is inserted on the side that is closest to you. The left corner is cut off from the left side (at an angle of 45 degrees), respectively, the right corner is cut off from the other side of the miter box. Then we try on the joining corner surfaces. If they come together, you can attach it to the wall or ceiling.

Cut out outer corners

The same manipulations are done with the miter box, only the plinth is installed inside the device on the opposite side (mirror arrangement).

Those who have practice in repairs can try cutting corners using a construction knife with replaceable blades. For this purpose on the baseboard it is necessary to make markings with a pencil at an angle of 45 degrees. Then cut using a ruler.

Ready-made corners

IN model range foam, polyurethane corners often come with external and internal corners. They are overhead and internal. Inserted at an angle of 45 degrees. They not only hide the joints, but also serve as an additional decorative element.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Ready-made ceiling plinths are sold in individual strips ranging in size from 1 to 2 meters.

In order to determine how many linear meters of fillets you need to buy, you need to divide the perimeter of the ceiling by the footage of the planks.

This will give you the number of pieces you need to purchase.

Usually they buy 1-2 pieces more (depending on the size of the perimeter).

Tools and materials

Installation of fillets, necessary tools:

• roulette;
• markers for marks (a construction pencil will do);
• putty bucket;
• spatula (preferably rubber);
• mounting gun.

Materials you can use:

• putty for foam fillets;
• special mounting adhesive for polyurethane skirting boards;
• acrylic sealant, assembly adhesive, liquid nails for heavier structures (wide polyurethane baseboard).

You will need paint for the ceiling plinth. Recall that PVC ceiling skirting boards fastened with self-tapping screws.

Installation of fillets

The plinth is attached directly to the wall, on top of the wallpaper.

Sequencing:

1. Preparation of walls and ceiling. It consists of leveling, priming and applying putty in two layers.
2. Adhesive mixtures are used to treat surfaces that will be adjacent to the walls and ceiling. They are squeezed out of the tube using a construction gun and applied with a spatula. The layer of adhesive mixtures should evenly cover the surface so that when the baseboard is pressed down, their excess protrudes as little as possible.
3. Then apply and lightly press the baseboard for a few minutes.
4. Next, glue the next plank, lightly coating the joining surfaces with adhesive mixtures.
5. The next step is to putty the joints.
6. Coloring ceiling fillet carried out either in advance or after the plinth is glued. In this case, it is better to work with gloves so as not to stain it.

The second method, which is used less frequently, is to fasten the structure to special mounting strips. It is usually used for heavier elements, for example, wide polyurethane fillets.

The cast gypsum plank is attached to putty, and the wooden planks are attached using special nails, mounting adhesive, and screws.

Gluing fillets to a suspended ceiling

The problem is that securing one of the sides of the fillet to the suspended ceiling is problematic. After all, this is a film with tension fixation. A small gap will form between the mount and the mount.

Attention! There are two main methods of attaching suspended ceilings: “harpoon” and “cam”. In the first case, tension occurs using “harpoon” type fasteners, hence the name. In the second case, the film is stretched by inserting it into a special strip. She pinches it like a clothespin. It is with the harpoon method that a gap is formed.

In this case, installing fillets on adhesive solutions It is produced only on the wall. Between suspended ceiling and the ceiling part leaves a minimum gap.

Installation of fillets is one of the final chords of apartment renovation. They carry a practical and aesthetic function. Being a connecting element of decor, they cover the junction of the ceiling and wall. The choice of type depends on the interior of the room and financial capabilities.

At the junction of the floor/wall structure, where two planes are connected at right angles, high stresses arise due to dynamic vibrations and thermal expansion/shrinkage deformations.

To compensate for the loads at the junction of the floor/wall and to prevent subsequent defects in the layers of waterproofing materials, a fillet is made.

Stress compensation by constructing a fillet using waterproofing repair material Resmix WDM and elastic waterproofing tape Resmix DW.

TECHNOLOGY OF WORK EXECUTION

Preparing the base

At the wall-floor junction, a groove is made to a depth of at least 20 mm.

The seam and joint surfaces are cleaned of substances that reduce the adhesion strength of the fillet to the base: dirt, dust, oil, grease, paint, rust. Peeling, destroyed elements and cement laitance are removed mechanically, using water or sandblasting.

Before installation, fillets, seam and joint surfaces should be matte-moist, without shine.

Fillet device

To fill the embroidered seam, waterproofing material Resmix WDM is applied to the wall/floor junction, with a layer width exceeding the width of the waterproofing tape by 2-3 cm.

A waterproofing tape is placed into the fresh layer and pressed in with a smooth spatula or roller. When laying the tape, avoid stretching, distortion and the formation of air cavities. The joints of the tape are laid with an overlap of at least 5 cm.

After laying the waterproofing tape, a second layer of waterproofing is applied to form a fillet measuring 30x30 mm with a rounding radius of at least 20 mm.

The subsequent application of waterproofing coatings is carried out by placing it on the created fillet.

It is necessary to ensure moisture maintenance of the applied fillet to prevent rapid drying of the surface and the risk of cracking within 24 hours under normal conditions, and when exposed to direct sunlight and wind within 48 hours. To protect the surface, it is recommended to use a special film-forming composition – Resmix NB.

resmix.ru

WHAT IS A FILLET AND WHY IS IT NEEDED ~ PROFESSIONAL INDUSTRIAL WATERPROOFING

A fillet (fillet) is a smoothed internal corner of a structure. Most often, it is performed only after the structure itself has been cast. It is best to make a fillet for waterproofing, since it is this that relieves stress from the waterproofing evenly over the entire area. The fillet size can vary from 20-100mm

photo from the website kttron.ru

WHY DO YOU NEED A FILLET UNDER WATERPROOFING?

The fact is that internal and external corners concrete structures are the “thin” point of any waterproofing. Both coating and sprayed with built-up. Let's consider the case of performing waterproofing with coating materials. If the inner corner is straight without a fillet, then it is practically impossible to process it without unpainting in one pass. And if there is a fillet on it, then the layer of waterproofing material will lie over it evenly over the entire width and length. On top of that, the fillet relieves the waterproofing material of internal stresses that arise as the material gains strength.

With rolled welded and bonded materials it is even more critical, since it is almost impossible to fuse a roll at a right angle without the formation of bubbles. Which during operation can tear and lead to leaks precisely at the junctions of structures. Therefore, all external corners are always ground down to 30-50mm legs, and on internal corners a fillet or fillet is performed.

HOW TO PERFORM A CURVE CORRECTLY.

A fillet or fillet is best done in conjunction with embossing a seam. This means that if you plan to make a fillet for waterproofing on a cold or working concreting seam, then it is better to first make a groove measuring 20x20mm or 30x30mm in this seam, and only after that make a fillet. This will give you additional protection seam against leakage (passive degree of protection against leakage). After applying the base layer of the fillet, it is best to walk over it with a non-moistened brush or dampened glove to smooth out all the irregularities and it is especially important to smooth out the contact area between the repairman and the mother concrete. The fillet is best made from repair polymer-cement compositions such as:

LAKHTA® quick repair

LAKHTA® basic repair composition

LAKHTA® suture waterproofing

MasterEmaco N 5200

In cases where the fillet does not have high requirements for strength and adhesion, it can be made from ordinary cement-sand mortar of grade M200.

FILLET ACCEPTANCE METHOD.

The fillet, which acts as a waterproofing embossing of the working seam, must be continuous and without visible cracks along its entire length. Boiling is not allowed.

The fillet, which only acts as a corner smoother, is checked only for geometric compliance with the project.

Interesting fact: the “clearest” fillet is considered to be the one in which a beer bottle lowered from a height of 200 mm does not make the sound of hitting the base.

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DON'T DO A FILLET

Here is an excellent example of the work on applying the material LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing without fillet and with fillet. As you can see in the photo, in areas of the treated surface without fillets, all the waterproofing was cracked in the very corner. But in areas with fillets, everything is fine!

SUMMARY:

It is necessary to make a fillet under all waterproofing coatings.

The fillet is best done in the form of a fillet.

The fillet is needed to relieve stress from the waterproofing carpet and make it easier to apply waterproofing.

COST OF FILLET DEVICE

The price for work on installing a fillet without gating is 100 rubles/m.p.

The price for the work on installing a fillet with grooves is 300 rubles/m.p.

FILLET DEVICE

IN ST. PETERSBURG

bigpena.ru

what is it, features, types, installation:: SYL.ru

Quite often fillets are used in repairs today; you should find out what they are before visiting the store. These interior elements are a kind of plinth, and are located at the junction between the ceiling and the wall. At the same time, it is possible to hide errors that could have been made during finishing. The fillet is classified according to its material of manufacture and design, this will be discussed below, as well as the installation work.

Features of the fillet

A fillet is a room finishing element that can be used to hide gaps and unevenness in ceiling-wall corners. With this product you can give the room a complete look. Fillets can be made from different materials, this allows us to distinguish several varieties. Galleys differ from skirting boards in that they usually do not have cable ducts, and their installation is carried out in the upper part of the room.

Main types of fillets

If you are interested in fillets, what they are, you should know. In order to answer this question, it is necessary to become more familiar with the materials used in these products. For example, foam fillets are the most common today, because their cost is reasonable, and installation can be done by hand. Such products can be installed in any room, it can be a bathroom or kitchen, as well as a living room.

Over time, the foam does not turn yellow; it copes well with fluctuations in humidity and temperature. Such fillets weigh very little, so any composition can be used to glue them, it can be putty, alabaster or construction adhesive. To cut such a plinth, there is no need to purchase a special tool; an ordinary sharp stationery or construction knife will be sufficient. The disadvantage is fragility.

Polyurethane fillets and gypsum products

If you also decide to use fillets in repairs, you should find out what they are. For example, polyurethane products are very similar in appearance to foam products, but polyurethane is more durable and flexible, so it can be used even on rounded surfaces. The advantage is excellent resistance to mechanical damage. In addition, such material does not crumble. However, there are also disadvantages, which are expressed in more impressive weight compared to foam, so silicone or acrylic glue should be used for installation.

Quite often, when decorating modern interiors, fillets are used; what they are, you should find out if you also decide to follow the experience of the majority. Thus, on sale you can find gypsum products that are classic. They are not so common today, the reason is their significant weight, as well as the ability to install only on putty, gypsum mortar and alabaster.

Wooden fillets

Another classic option for fillets are ceiling wooden products, but they are used quite rarely and only when the walls have wooden elements. These fillets have a plus, which is expressed in an attractive and elegant appearance. However, it is quite difficult to install which products, and you need to use screws or nails for this. The products are expensive, and the cracks that have formed have to be covered with putty.

Plastic fillets

A fairly common option today are plastic fillets; they come complete with corner elements that simplify the installation process. The installation work will not be accompanied by difficulties, and even a novice home craftsman can cope with it. Such products are durable, they can be produced in imitation of various natural materials, it can be wood or marble.

Carrying out installation

Ceiling fillets must be installed according to a certain algorithm. For example, plastic and wooden skirting boards On single-tier ceilings that have previously been whitewashed or painted with water-based emulsion, they are installed mechanically; for this, you can use nails spaced 30-50 cm apart from each other. Self-tapping screws can be used only when the walls are made of natural wood or plasterboard.

You can simply stick fillets on the ceiling if they are made of foam plastic. Liquid nails are usually used for this. Polyurethane products are somewhat heavier, so they must be installed against the wall. In this case, when choosing an adhesive, you must consult a specialist. They usually recommend purchasing adhesives:

• "Titanium".
• "Installation".
• "Europlast".
• "Moment.

The glue is applied to the back side of the plinth, the composition is then left to dry for some time, only then can the fillet be glued to the surface. All gaps, cracks and joints are filled at the final stage acrylic sealant or putty with the same composition. The main thing is to ensure that the mixture does not leak onto the front surface of the product.

Types of fillets for the bathroom

Bathroom fillets, the types of which will be presented below, eliminate the occurrence of fungal infections and mold. In addition, it also plays a major role, expressed in decorating the joints of the ceiling and walls. Such skirting boards are usually made of plastic, so they can have absolutely any color. Bath fillers are usually made of polystyrene, polyurethane and foam.

The first option is good because it is safe for human health. The cheapest are foam products; they are quite easy to install and clean. The main disadvantage in this case is the possibility of destruction of the material under the influence of chemicals. Bath fillers made of polyurethane are durable and flexible, as well as the highest cost. When it comes to plastic fillets, they are usually made of foamed PVC or hard plastic. If we compare them with products made from natural wood and foam, then plastic wins in terms of strength and flexibility. You can install the plastic fillet using sealant.

Features of installing fillets in a bathroom

In order to determine the required number of fillets for a bathroom, you need to calculate the perimeter and divide it by 2. This will allow you to find out how many fillets you need to purchase, because each product has a length of 2 m. If you are thinking about the question of how to glue fillets, then you should know that their installation is usually carried out within a day after purchase, this is due to the fact that the material must adapt to room temperature. The location of the fillets should be such as to minimize the number of joints, this especially applies to the visible area. It is first recommended to draw up a diagram where each fillet will have its place.

Preparing tools for installation

If you have purchased a fillet for the bathroom, you must ensure that you have all the necessary tools, including:

• ladder;
• miter box;
• putty knife;
• ruler;
• roulette.

Installation instructions

First, you need to place the baseboard against the wall to make sure that its width covers the entire gap. At the first fillet, you need to cut an angle of 45° using a miter box. Glue should be applied to each inner side; one side of the product will be fixed to the ceiling, the other to the wall. As soon as the plinth is placed in the intended place, it must be pressed down a little, while ensuring that the product is not damaged. It is important to eliminate dents and dirty spots.

www.syl.ru

Foundation waterproofing device Bitumen Bitumen-polymer

If you ended up on this page by accident, and did not come here from other sections of the b2bb2c.ru site, then please note that it talks about the construction of foundation waterproofing with liquid rubber.

This is a modern bitumen foundation waterproofing. Not to be confused with conventional bitumen mastics or bitumen-based roll materials. Liquid rubber consists of 60% bitumen, but this is where the similarity with traditional bitumen materials ends. To learn more about the features of this material for bitumen waterproofing foundation read on b2bb2c.ru section Bitumen polymer emulsion on water based.

So, liquid rubber can be used to waterproof any type of foundation. But most reasonable use- These are foundations on a monolithic slab. Those. where the volume of work amounts to hundreds and thousands square meters, where there is significant deepening, where a basement or ground floor.

And because If the depth is large, the price of an error increases, so a quality guarantee is necessary. It is for this purpose that bitumen waterproofing of the foundation with a water-based bitumen-polymer emulsion is excellent, i.e. liquid rubber.

On this page of the website b2bb2c.ru we will talk about preparing the base - foundation walls and slabs for their waterproofing with liquid rubber. Let's look at the example of a foundation based on a monolithic slab.

Installation of foundation waterproofing on a monolithic slab

The figure shows a sketch of a foundation waterproofing device on a monolithic slab. We see that horizontal and vertical waterproofing is being carried out.

It should be understood that the time interval between these stages can reach several months, because when horizontal waterproofing of a foundation slab is performed, there are no foundation walls yet; moreover, if everything is done correctly, then there is no foundation slab as such. Remembering Woland’s words: “What do you have, no matter what you miss, nothing?” But don't rush, there is no mistake here.

Very important point– hermetically connect the horizontal waterproofing of the slab with the vertical waterproofing of the walls. Only in this case can you be sure that water will not get into the basement. And liquid rubber copes with this task perfectly, allowing you to obtain an absolutely sealed, seamless rubber contour outside the underground part of the building.

The figure also shows a close-up of the joint - the junction horizontal waterproofing along the base of the foundation and vertical waterproofing foundation walls.

But before performing bitumen waterproofing of the foundation with liquid rubber, it is necessary to prepare the base - concrete slab or concrete walls. Requirements to concrete surface The foundation, the roof, the floor are identical.

It is also very important that the foundation waterproofing device lasts for many years, to protect waterproofing layer from mechanical damage during backfilling or possible frost heaving.

For example, arrange foundation drainage using profiled membranes. They simultaneously perform two functions: wall drainage with moisture removal into the pipe and waterproofing protection. You can also use foundation insulation in combination with membranes. If the soil allows, then you can only insulate it, without drainage. Then the thermal insulation will also perform the functions of protecting the waterproofing. Read about all this in a special article on the website b2bb2c.ru

In the meantime, let's consider how to prepare the concrete surface before and in order to properly waterproof the foundation with liquid rubber. However, it is not necessary to use liquid rubber; these requirements for preparing the base are the same for all methods of bitumen waterproofing of the foundation. Those. also for rolls, and ordinary bitumen mastic (heated or with solvents) and for cold water-based bitumen-polymer mastic (one-component liquid rubber).

Preparing concrete for foundation waterproofing

The base on which bitumen waterproofing is applied must be strong and capable of supporting this material. Preferably smooth. This does not mean that concrete should be like metal after grinding to class 8 cleanliness. Pores, cracks, small chips, scratches, roughness - all this is allowed. The good thing about liquid rubber is that it will “clog” into these defects and seal them hermetically. But!

If we are talking about shallow and not wide damage. Otherwise, cavities, holes, chips, cracks, and crevices must be sealed with mortar.

Protruding pieces of reinforcement should be cut down and sanded flush with the concrete. Protruding fragments permanent formwork Remove from PSBS, rub these places, level with solution.

Sharp corners should be smoothed. On vertical walls, for example, trim with an axe. Ideally, make a fillet at the junction of the horizontal and vertical surfaces. However, for a foundation on a monolithic slab, you can do without a fillet, but the joint between the slab and the wall must be sealed with mortar so that there are no cracks or crevices.

Of course, dirt, dust, loose, crumbled particles, oil and grease, deteriorating and crumbling paint, all this must be removed.

The question often arises: how dry should the concrete surface be? The surface may be damp, but not wet. The simplest test is to touch it with your hand; if drops of water remain on your palm, you cannot apply liquid rubber. If the hand feels cold but does not get wet, then the surface is suitable for bitumen waterproofing of the foundation with a bitumen-polymer emulsion.

But still, on the topic of “water in the base”, which will be insulated with liquid rubber, it is recommended to read the section on b2bb2c.ru about why you should dry the roof before applying liquid rubber.

How soon after pouring the monolith can the foundation be waterproofed with liquid rubber?

Concrete must gain strength of at least 70%. In summer, at a temperature of +20 degrees C, this takes 7 days. If a fillet is made, then the criterion for its “readiness to accept liquid rubber” is that it does not collapse or sag when pressed with a finger.

We suggest looking at the topic of preparing walls when installing foundation waterproofing short video.

• You can see that the concrete walls are smoothed, cracks and holes are filled with mortar.
• The joint between the slab and the wall is covered with mortar. More precisely, if you look closely, you can see that a screed was installed on top of the horizontal waterproofing, and a screed was poured on top of it monolithic slab and walls. Those. horizontal waterproofing is not performed directly on the slab, but on the base of the slab, the so-called sole or lean concrete (see figure above).
• Fragments of foam formwork that were peeking out from the lower end of the “tooth” were removed and also rubbed with mortar.

What else interesting and instructive can you notice? For example, how to ensure reliable adhesion between the vertical waterproofing of a wall and the horizontal waterproofing of a slab that was completed a couple of months ago.

Tightness of the joint between vertical and horizontal bitumen waterproofing during foundation construction

You probably noticed that in the video the horizontal waterproofing of the foundation slab was done in a roll. And it took some time after that to fill the walls. In construction conditions, the tongue of horizontal waterproofing, extending 20 centimeters beyond vertical wall, dusty, dirty. And now the liquid rubber of the vertical waterproofing of the walls should lie on this tongue.

It is this 200mm strip along the perimeter of the entire building that is the junction of the horizontal and vertical waterproofing. We remember that one of the components of high-quality adhesion of a liquid rubber coating is that the base is clean and dust-free.

The most correct and The best decision– melt this “tongue” along the entire perimeter of the building. Not a trace remains of dust and cargo. The surface of the roll, which is also bitumen waterproofing, melts and becomes sticky to the touch.

A more ideal base for applying liquid rubber cannot be imagined: clean, heated bitumen. You can rest assured that along this strip along the entire building, the bitumen-polymer emulsion will lie down and stick to the roll so firmly that it will be impossible to tear off and separate these layers. They form a single whole - monolithic, homogeneous and absolutely sealed.

Besides preparatory operations described and shown on this page, there are other professional “tricks” to guarantee adhesion, tightness, and the same thickness of the waterproof layer over the entire surface when waterproofing the foundation. But more about this in other articles and videos on the website www.b2bb2c.ru from the Liquid Rubber section and the Foundation Waterproofing section.

Do it yourself or order a foundation waterproofing device with liquid rubber

If you want to carry out bitumen waterproofing of the foundation with liquid rubber yourself, then on the website b2bb2c.ru you will find not only a lot of useful, professional, and sometimes exclusive information regarding the technology, but also reviews on the topics of what equipment for liquid rubber you can buy in Russia, as well as prices and costs of liquid rubber.

But remember that just buy equipment and raw materials (even if you are lucky and buy correct installation and the right tires) - this is not enough. You need knowledge (you can get it by reading this site). You need a clear head and straight arms (this is how lucky someone is at birth). And you need experience. This is a profitable business. The SD Department's first experiments with liquid rubber date back to 2005.

Therefore, those who are going to use liquid rubber to waterproof a foundation or repair or waterproof a flat roof for the first time, be careful and careful. Remember that it is better to measure 7 times and cut once. Or - invite our specialists to show and teach you at the first site. Let's make 200-300-500 squares and then you will learn and learn a lot.

Pricing for waterproofing work by SD Department

If independent device You are not interested in bitumen waterproofing of the foundation, but need a reliable and professional contractor, then contact the company SD Department b2bb2c.ru. Our experience with liquid rubber since 2005 is a guarantee for you of high-quality waterproofing work.

www.b2bb2c.ru

Application area

This system can be used in the new construction of various public and residential buildings in which a usable ground or basement floor is designed. Distinctive feature system is the use of a two-layer waterproofing system, which allows its use in almost any hydrological conditions.

Composition and main characteristics of the system

Horizontal part:

1. Gravel layer – at least 100 mm
2. Plate concrete preparation– not less than 100 mm
3. TECHNOELAST EPP 2 layers for protection against groundwater and capillary rise – 2 x 4.0 mm

Vertical part:

4. TechnoNIKOL PVC waterstop for sealing and waterproofing cold work joints
5. Reinforced concrete foundation wall - thickness according to the project
6. Transitional edge (fillet 100x100 mm) to ensure reliable waterproofing when transitioning from a vertical to a horizontal surface
7. Bitumen primer TechnoNIKOL No. 01 for priming the foundation slab - less than 1.0 mm
8. Technoelast EPP 2 layers for waterproofing – 2 x 4.0 mm
9. Extruded polystyrene foam TechnoNIKOL CARBON PROF 300 as
thermal insulation layer - thickness according to calculation
10. Backfill soil

Main stages and principles of installation:

1. Construction of a soil cushion

Fill and compact a layer of gravel.

2. Preparing the base for horizontal waterproofing

Pour a concrete preparation slab with a thickness of at least 100 mm from low-quality concrete. Prime the surface of the concrete preparation slab using TechnoNIKOL bitumen primer No. 01.

3. Horizontal waterproofing device

• lay the material with overlapping sheets in transverse joints of at least 150 mm and in longitudinal joints of at least 85 mm;
• While rolling the roll towards you, melt the lower surface of the roll using a gas burner.

4. Construction of horizontal and vertical foundation slabs

Before casting a horizontal foundation slab, it is necessary to ensure the protection of the waterproofing layer with protective screed or ACL sheets.

Arrange formwork, assemble reinforcement cage, install waterstops, fill concrete mixture.

5. Preparation of the surface of vertical foundation slabs for waterproofing

Clean the surface from construction waste, dust, cement laitance films:

• produce the laitance film by dry or wet blast-abrasive cleaning;
• dry the surface, remove dust using a construction vacuum cleaner.

Prime the surface using TechnoNIKOL bitumen primer No. 01.

6. Vertical waterproofing device

Make transitional edges (fillets) at the junction of the vertical and horizontal wall at an angle of 45° from cement-sand mortar. The fillet height is 100 mm.

Fuse layers of TECHNOELAST EPP waterproofing material onto the prepared base:

• lay the material with overlapping sheets in transverse joints of at least 150 mm and in longitudinal joints of at least 80 mm;
• melt the bottom surface of the roll using a gas burner.
• when laying the second layer of waterproofing, the distance between the longitudinal overlaps of the first and second layers must be at least 300 mm, and between the transverse overlaps at least 500 mm.

7. Thermal insulation device

Install a layer of thermal insulation from slabs extruded polystyrene foam TechnoNIKOL CARBON PROF 300 on the waterproofing layer:

• place the seams between the thermal insulation slabs “in a running motion”;

Glue the slabs to the waterproofing using a special adhesive composition or by melting the surface of the waterproofing to a temperature not exceeding 75°C. It is also possible to glue onto hot mastic heated to no higher than 75°C.

In the plinth area (above the level of the blind area), the slabs are fastened mechanically using TechnoNIKOL telescopic fasteners at the rate of 6 fasteners per slab measuring 1200x600 mm.

8. backfilling soil

Pour sand or backfill soil into free space between the foundation pit and the foundation.

Compact the soil in accordance with SNiP 3.02.01-87 “Earth structures, bases and foundations.”

System Specifications

tdalkor.ru

Foundation waterproofing STANDARD

· WELL-KNOWN TECHNOLOGY · HIGH SPEED OF CONSTRUCTION OF THE SYSTEM · EFFECTIVE PROTECTION OF WATERPROOFING · EASY INSTALLATION

Construction system Foundation waterproofing STANDARD

FOUNDATION STANDARD is the simplest and most common system for waterproofing building foundations. It is durable and easy to install, which is quick and easy. Reliability of waterproofing in this system is ensured through the use of a profiled PLANTER membrane

Scope of application of the FOUNDATION STANDARD system

This system is used for monolithic foundations, so for national teams - from reinforced concrete slabs. The main area of ​​application is buildings, the basement or ground floor of which is intended only for laying communications, and not for operation. The groundwater level must be low - only under this condition this system will be as effective as possible.

Installation of the FOUNDATION STANDARD system

The FOUNDATION STANDARD waterproofing system is maximum simplicity and high speed of installation. At the same time, the use of this system guarantees reliable and durable protection of the foundation from moisture, which means it will last much longer.

Preparing the base

For foundation waterproofing to be effective and durable, it is very important to properly prepare the foundation. The base is considered prepared, which is first cleaned of dirt, and then all cracks or joints of reinforced concrete slabs are sealed with cement mortar. After all defects have been eliminated, a bitumen primer should be applied to the surface of the foundation as a primer. It will improve the condition of the base, remove dust from it, and make the foundation surface adhere to waterproofing material the best. Be sure to wait completely dry primer layer.

Applying a waterproofing layer

This system uses for waterproofing bitumen mastic bitumen mastic. The best option will choose the mastic that is applied cold. To apply mastic, use any convenient tool - brush, brush. Alternatively, instead of mastic, you can use a built-up waterproofing roll material, but in this case, preparing the base, in addition to priming it, will involve additional leveling (plastering).

Additional work

The PLANTER membrane is fixed over the waterproofing. It will reliably protect the waterproofing from stress and damage. The profiled membrane should be attached so as not to damage the integrity of the waterproofing. For this it is best to use special adhesive mixtures. The membrane spikes should face the wall.

Completion of work

After fixing the profiled membrane, the foundation can be covered with soil; it is reliably and permanently protected from moisture.

What allows you to save money

Due to the fact that this foundation waterproofing system is carried out quite quickly and quite simply, you get the opportunity to significantly reduce your costs for protecting the foundation, and at the same time not lose in quality and reliability.

www.hidroizol.ru

Epoxy-based fillet - Polimersts.ru

Epoxy self-leveling flooring is a progressive coating option, indispensable in industrial complexes, hangars and warehouses. Such surfaces are impervious to mechanical loads and the effects of aggressive compounds. Supplement polymer coatings become fillets on epoxy based. Their purpose is to seal the seams between floor covering and a wall.

Purpose and properties of epoxy fillets

The voids that remain after installing the floors around the perimeter and near the columns should be filled. This point is of particular importance in catering establishments and in the pharmaceutical industry, where there are increased requirements for the cleanliness of premises. Sealants for filling junctions between a wall and a polymer floor cannot be used in all situations.

By effective means Epoxy-based fillets are recognized for filling floor-to-wall junctions. They are widely used in factories and warehouses. The thoughtful shape of the material guarantees the quality of cleaning and increases the cleanliness of the room.

Advantages of fillets

Having the same positive characteristics Just like regular fillets, epoxy varieties acquire a number of advantages unique to them. Such indicators determine the inclusion in the composition epoxy resins and their derivatives.

Industrial floors with epoxy fillets at junctions:

• safe for human health and environment;
• hygienic;
• easy to use;
• strong and durable;
• not subject to combustion.

You can order the installation of fillets for floor-to-wall junctions from the Polimerstroyservice company.