How to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands - this is the question I had to ask myself when the idea came to my mind to turn our ownerless balcony into a home one. As it turns out, I am not at all comfortable sewing in a room that is a child’s room. I wanted solitude and silence so that I could be completely focused on work, and I also interfered with the children’s study and recreation.

In this article I will talk about how we carried out renovations to transform our cold and drafty loggia into living room, or rather to my office and how much it cost us. I will also give valuable advice that will help you avoid mistakes and save your nerves and money)

• Replacing a window on a balcony
• Plastering a balcony (loggia)
• Costings. How much money did we spend on insulating the balcony (loggia)
• A few tips for those who are planning to insulate a balcony with their own hands

How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands

What I had to face and what our loggia looked like before insulation

When I told my friends about my idea, at first everyone laughed at me. They began to say that there was not enough space there, and they were frightened by the cold of the unheated room - after all, our loggia was essentially outdoor premises. To give you an idea of ​​what I had to face, I am attaching a plan of the balcony. I had to turn three and a half squares of usable space into a full-fledged office, where my two Sewing machines with a table cutting table, ironing board.

The first window has a balcony door and access to the kitchen. This wall is the main one - it’s already warm, so you don’t have to sheathe it. Subsequently, we abandoned covering it with plaster, since the brick itself looks quite interesting in the interior. We just cleaned its surface from dirt with sandpaper.

The second window is located on the wall of the loggia, it required complete replacement and hit the stained glass windows. The photo was taken after installing a new double-glazed window.

Replacing a window on a balcony

The first thing my story with the balcony began was the replacement of the existing double-glazed window. When we moved into our new building, we saw that on the loggia (unlike other rooms) the developer installed windows in one layer of glass. Of course, this was a summer option; they were completely free of the cold. There was no talk about replacing the double-glazed windows, because I also wanted to change the shape of the frame and make the opening sash of different sizes. I don’t know how the design of our house was made, but the architect clearly did not make an effort for the convenience of the residents. Therefore, first of all, I found a company that manufactured a high-quality two-chamber window according to our dimensions. As the window manufacturers stated, such a window provides 25% more heat retention in the room than the one supplied by the developer.

When ordering a new window, there was one small point that significantly increased the amount of our costs - lamination. That is, on the street side, all the window frames of our house are dark burgundy, like wood. Therefore, we also had to not get out of the general picture and make a window into the general color scheme. For lamination, window manufacturing companies charge 20% of the total cost.

The price for a window measuring 2580 * 1520 cm with a burgundy frame, including installation and delivery, was 20,700 rubles. And we sold the dismantled old window at a profit on the Avito website.

Important (!)- if you are going to subsequently insulate the balcony and increase the ceiling after installing the window, then tell the window technicians about it. They will put extensions on the top of the window so that later your extended ceiling does not cover the shutters and you can hang curtains.

Heating a loggia, which method to choose

A loggia usually has walls made of one layer of brick; the worst option is a balcony made of corrugated sheets. Therefore, to feel comfortable in this room during the cold season, a heater is needed.

There are two options for making your loggia warm. The first one is to open balcony door so that it is heated by the adjacent room. The second is to install electric “warm” floors or buy oil radiators.

I’ll tell you right away from our experience - one heater was not enough for us, and we decided to install a warm floor. Despite the fact that the walls of our loggia were insulated, there was cold from the neighbors above and below - after all, their balconies remained uninsulated.

Selecting material for insulating a loggia (balcony)

At the very beginning, my husband was advised to do the insulation of the balcony with his own hands; in general, he is handy - he can lay laminate flooring and tiles. But in the case of the balcony, I didn’t have time to wait for him to find free time, the work of a professional was needed here, since correcting mistakes would cost more. So we found a master who is engaged in this business and observed his work from the side. I found him through Avito, what I first of all paid attention to was real photographs and accommodation in our area (so that he could go to lunch without spending a lot of time).

I didn’t just want to cover the balcony with panels, but to make walls that could later be covered with wallpaper, so for internal lining we chose drywall. Finding a good specialist who would work with drywall and install wiring (after all, I also needed sockets and lighting) turned out to be not an easy task. But I was lucky and found good specialist, who promised me to bring my idea to life! On his advice, after taking all measurements, we purchased the following to insulate our loggia:

• plasterboard - for walls and ceilings
• plywood - for the floor
• TechnoNIKOL Rocklight - for floors
• technoNIKOL technoplex - for walls and ceilings
• isolar - reflective metallized substrate
• bars

The most important thing on this list is insulation. It is thanks to this that you get a full-fledged living room. We chose two types of insulation:

The first type, for floor insulation, is TechnoNIKOL Rocklight. It consists of rectangular slabs pressed from basalt fibers; it is popularly called mineral wool. There is no need to be afraid that it can have an adverse effect on the air in the room (many write about harmful fumes, etc.), on the contrary, due to its ability to transmit moisture rather than retain it, it is widely used for insulating damp rooms where there is a possibility of mold and mildew . According to the Technonikol company, its slabs do not burn and do not absorb moisture, therefore today they are recognized as the most the best insulation materials On the market. In order to cover the floors of a 3.8 m2 loggia in two layers, we needed 1 package of TechnoNIKOL Rocklight, which contained 12 slabs.

The second insulation we used is TechnoNIKOL Technoplex for internal wall cladding. As I mentioned above, the developer built our loggia in one layer of brick, due to this there was a blast from every corner. In addition, inconvenient stained glass windows were installed in the loggia on either side of the window, which from the outside gave the house a business-like appearance, but inside served as a source of constant drafts and moisture for the residents. This type insulation is made of nanographite, due to this it has an unsightly grey colour. Although by weight appearance it reminded me more of polystyrene foam, but despite its lightness it has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. After our balcony stopped looking like a bamboo hut, I started thinking about how to use these magic slabs to soundproof the living room from neighbors)

The third type of insulation- it rather comes as an addition to the first two, it is metallized substrate isolon or isolar. We all know that a shiny surface is highly reflective. It is this ability of the metallized surface of the substrate that allows you to redirect heat inside the room, as if reflecting it and preventing it from escaping outside.

As a result, I can say that all the insulation materials coped with their tasks with a bang, they really retain heat, like a thermos. But at the same time they miss excess moisture, preventing the formation of mold.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands step by step photo

1. Cleared the balcony of everything unnecessary. Before the technician arrived, we cleaned our balcony of rubbish and debris, a window was already installed and heating radiators were installed.

2. Patching “holes” in stained glass windows using TechnoNIKOL Technoplex insulation boards. This did not affect the appearance of the house in any way, and for us the problem of eternal drafts was solved. The slabs were laid in two layers, all cracks were filled with polyurethane foam.

After taking measurements, cutting the slabs is done using a jigsaw and a hacksaw for metal.

3. Exiting electrical wiring to the balcony. In my workshop it was planned to install three sockets for sewing machines and a laptop; the wires were pulled from the nearest socket in the kitchen.

4. Insulation of the floor using beams and TechnoNIKOL Rocklight insulation (mineral wool). According to our master, he likes to work with this type of insulation most of all. Since when placed between the beams, it expands on its own and does not leave any gaps, which means it does not require the use of polyurethane foam.

Although basalt wool and glass wool are two different things, I still played it safe and carefully closed the door to the balcony while he was laying the floors. And then I vacuumed all the walls for an hour. Our master, of course, laughed for a long time when he saw me walking around in a medical mask and gloves. For me, any mention of glass wool is a fear from childhood, when we ran around a construction site and accidentally touched glass wool, any of us received a burn, after which it itched and burned for a long time.

First, a frame or so-called formwork for the future floor and walls is assembled from wooden blocks. The slats are fastened together metal corners using dowels and a screwdriver.

If the frame is laid on concrete, then first, using an impact drill, holes are drilled on concrete floor at fastening points. Then in wooden joists Dowels are inserted, applied to the fastening points and the screws are driven in with a hammer.

Mineral wool mats can be laid directly on concrete screed, in a wooden frame between the joists. It does not shrink at all, so it is used even on high-traffic surfaces.

To give the floor additional thermal insulation properties, you can build a second lathing frame on top of the first layer of basalt wool insulation and lay another layer of TechnoNIKOL Rocklight in the same way. In this case wooden blocks are attached with a screwdriver to self-tapping screws.

Next, an isolar layer is used - this is a metallized substrate that reflects heat and protects from moisture; it is widely used to create a warm balcony (loggia). After laying all the layers of building materials, we reached the same floor level as the room without thresholds or steps.

Important (!)— the metallized substrate is laid with the reflective surface facing up.

5. Insulation of the ceiling using TechnoNIKOL Technoplex insulation. Two wires were installed in our ceiling ceiling lamps. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling, it was removed under the wooden beams electrical wiring. I really like this method - it looks neat, without unnecessary wires. Electricians have a lot to learn from Bashkir masters)

6. Insulation of walls using TechnoNIKOL Technoplex insulation.

The main difference between nanographite insulation and basalt wool is that it is not elastic. Therefore, when installing it in the sheathing, gaps remain, which then need to be filled with polyurethane foam.

After all the joints have been processed, a metallized Isolar substrate is applied on top of the insulation. It is attached to the sheathing using a stapler and special adhesive tape (connecting tape) - isospan.

After covering the entire surface with a metallized substrate, on top using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver to wooden sheathing sheets of plasterboard are attached.

Plastering a balcony (loggia) with your own hands

After the balcony was completely covered with plasterboard sheets, including the ceiling, we had to plaster the walls. Wallpaper cannot be glued to bare drywall because upper layer It is made of paper and can come off if wet. Additional processing The surface of the sheets includes a primer and putty.

At this stage of the work, our master left us, since he was only involved in insulation, and the work of a plasterer and painter was not part of his duties. We had a choice - either find a new worker, or pick up a spatula ourselves. A significant role in the choice was played by the amount that the plasterers - professionals - asked for the treatment of our small area.

Therefore, my friends, for the first time in my life I picked up a spatula and plastered my balcony myself (I posted a photo with the result below). But I will say right away that I liked plastering, as it turned out, working with the gypsum mixture is not at all difficult, and if you are not particularly picky about your walls, feel free to pick up a trowel and master the new kind activities! Subsequently (how they frightened me seasoned craftsmen) after drying, nothing fell off, and the loggia became even warmer - after all, I myself responsibly covered all the cracks and joints.

So, to plaster a balcony covered with sheets of plasterboard I needed:

• gypsum plaster “Volma layer”
• deep penetration primer for drywall
• Serpyanka tape for joints
• putty knife
• container for diluting plaster
• drill with mixer attachment for mixing the solution
• oilcloth to protect the surface from dirt (floor and brick wall)

1. First I went over the walls with a primer to improve the adhesion of the finish coat. Waited 40 minutes until completely dry.

2. I sealed all the joints on the drywall with sickle tape. It forms a strong adhesion to the binder mixture, which is especially important at seams and corners.

3. Prepare the solution. I first diluted everything according to the instructions, and then mixed the plaster with water by eye. The second time you already know exactly what consistency the solution should be. I applied the plaster in two layers. It took me four hours to work. I concluded that you can cope and learn how to work with a spatula even if you are a beginner. You can judge what I got from the photo. After drying, the color of the Volma layer plaster becomes gray rather than white, so the ceiling had to be whitewashed with water-based paint.

How much money did it cost us to insulate the balcony with our own hands?

• Double-chamber window with lamination (installation, installation) - 20.700
• Nails, switches, sockets, cable, polyurethane foam, sealant - 4.800
• Insulation, bars, drywall, plywood - 11,600
• Window sills, window frames, laminate, wallpaper, lamps - 4,000
• Master's work - 10,000

Total for our loggia with an area of ​​3.43 sq.m. It took us 51,100 rubles. The amount of costs depends on the size of the area to be insulated and what materials will be used for this. As you understand, insulating a balcony in a Khrushchev-era building will cost much less than insulating a large balcony with panoramic windows.

1. Be mentally prepared for the fact that you will need to allocate temporary space for building materials. All these insulation, sheets of plasterboard and wooden blocks are impressive in size and took up our entire hallway with an area of ​​13 sq.m. It was especially difficult for me with small children, whom you couldn’t keep in place and you had to constantly make sure that they didn’t trip and spread dirt around the apartment.

2. Separately, it is worth mentioning garbage and dust. Despite the fact that everything dirty work were carried out on the loggia, yet the builder had to walk between the balcony and the hallway for materials and tools. Therefore, the entire floor was strewn with shavings and debris. Every time after his work I had to spend time in the house wet cleaning with a rag and a vacuum cleaner. This is an important reason why I wanted to quickly finish insulating the loggia.

3. The amount that was initially agreed upon for the purchase of building materials was approximate. That is, in the process you still had to buy something in addition.

4. One person definitely cannot handle all the work. There are two options: find a company that does turnkey repairs, whose prices start from 50 thousand rubles. Or, as we did, we separately looked for a wizard for each option. As a result, for the entire process of insulating our loggia, we needed: specialists in the manufacture and installation of windows, a plumber, a foreman for insulation and cladding of balconies, a plasterer and a painter. It turned out cheaper than ordering from an organization, but I also had to spend time searching.

5. Keep in mind that if you decide to insulate the balcony yourself without the help of a specialist, then you should have the necessary tools for the job at hand. These are a jigsaw and files, a drill, a hammer, a screwdriver, a sealant gun, a hammer drill, a construction ruler with a level, a construction knife for drywall, a construction stapler.

6. Don’t throw away receipts; they may come in handy when repairs are completed and there are unused building materials left. Within 14 days from the date of purchase, you can return them to the store and get your money back, provided that the packaging remains unopened.

7. It is better to make purchases in large chain stores. For example, Leroy Merlin gives customers the opportunity to return goods unused for repair within 100 days after the purchase. I didn’t have any difficulty returning extra rolls of wallpaper, glue and curtain rods that didn’t match the height.

Conclusion

I hope our experience helped you on how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands step by step photos. Many people complain that after insulation the loggia still remains cold. We specifically measured the temperature on the balcony, when it was below zero outside. She remained as warm and comfortable as in the apartment.

The work of insulating a balcony is of course difficult and dirty. But how much joy I now have in my own workshop. I have my own small corner, where I can work calmly without disturbing my loved ones, and create in my personal space. So if you have an idea to make yourself a study, but there is no space in your apartment, pay attention to the balcony or loggia. Good luck everyone, bye!

It may seem that attaching a balcony to a room is not such a difficult matter. However, people often face a situation where, after glazing the parapet and removing the old door block the balcony becomes a source of colossal heat loss. Moreover, glaring mistakes are made not only by home craftsmen who decide to cope on their own, but also by hired professional builders. Let's figure out what misconceptions prevent you from doing everything correctly, what pitfalls exist, and how to get around them.

Myth No. 1: A balcony is practical and convenient

If we consider finished projects country cottages, then almost every one of them has a balcony. As practice shows, in the private sector this element of the building is extremely rarely used, especially when it is located on the front side of the facade. People make it and then throw it away. Until a certain point... until the first troubles begin. The wall near the slab freezes and gets wet, the materials on the street gradually deteriorate (the surface of the site crumbles, the fences rust), wooden door It dries out and begins to seep through it.

Important! Balcony stationary slab is tied with outer wall building, it goes directly into the room at floor level and is a huge bridge of cold. In a private house, it makes sense to build a balcony made of wood; it is advisable to use hinged and attached structures with support columns.

Approximately the same horrors are observed in an apartment in a high-rise building. But if in the private sector the owner can, by a strong-willed decision, completely abandon the construction of a balcony, then in a high-rise building people have nowhere to go, they have to do something. It turns out that the balcony is one of the most problem areas, that’s true in an apartment. It turns out that the home owner has additional structures “on his balance sheet,” moreover, external ones, which should be protected from wind, snow, rain, and the scorching rays of the sun. Every season something needs to be tinted, lubricated, adjusted, etc.

So, the designs open balcony They need regular careful maintenance, but some of the problems can be eliminated by glazing and insulation. The implementation of an insulated balcony is akin to a miniature construction site, since you will need to build/assemble walls, create a roof (on the topmost floor), and take care of heating and electricity.

Myth No. 2: Any translucent structure can be used for glazing

In fact, there are two types of glazing: warm and cold. Frameless and most sliding structures are elements of cold glazing - if the balcony remains a space isolated from the rooms. The warm option is used when the area is attached to the room. For such purposes, only the most technologically advanced products are suitable, which are distinguished by the greatest resistance to heat transfer, because windows will be the main enclosing structures, and their area is quite large.

Most aluminum systems here cannot provide normal thermal insulation, it is better to give preference to, for example, wooden structures(modern, of course). However best characteristics For energy saving, PVC windows are shown on the balcony. But these should be models with a multi-chamber (5-6 chambers, total frame width from 80 mm) profile, which allow the use of filling with two-chamber bags and corresponding sandwiches (from 32 mm). Obviously, double-glazed windows must be used with maximum thermal insulation capacity - that is, with three glasses in which argon and special spraying are used.

Important! Swing systems with several sealing contours have proven themselves to be the best for insulation. Sliding models(as well as frameless solutions) usually do not provide sufficient thermal insulation and tightness, although there are so-called tilt-slide and tilt-slide systems that have quite a decent level of energy efficiency.

As for the configuration and configuration of the glazing, it is worth mentioning the mandatory use of some standard components, which in all respects correspond to the tasks assigned to the insulation. These include:

• corner connecting profiles (has chambers and allows you to avoid constructing a supporting frame);
• straight H-shaped connecting profiles (allows you to fill a long opening with several frames, has cameras and elastic seals);
• stand elements (makes it possible to insulate the floor);
• expanders (allows you to insulate the ceiling and blank walls).

To increase heat transfer resistance, the cavities of these components can be filled with mineral wool or polyurethane foam.

You need to understand that even the highest quality glazing has relatively poor thermal insulation properties. Therefore, it is better to assemble a massive or frame parapet around the perimeter of the slab and insulate it, and install windows from the solid fence to the ceiling. If the PVC balcony structure is still chosen “from floor to ceiling”, then it is not necessary to fill all the frames with double-glazed windows; in some openings it will be more effective to install a warmer sandwich (PVC+EPS+PVC) - for example, on the end walls of the balcony, the lower part ram.

Myth #3: Anyone is enough modern insulation layer of 3-5 centimeters

Insufficient thickness of the thermal insulation layer is the most common mistake. It may seem that since the area of ​​the balcony is relatively small, it would not be logical to “eat up” it with thick enclosing elements. But, if you make simple calculations (see the article on calculating the thickness of thermal insulation), it becomes clear that minimum layer additional insulation will be 100-120 mm, and sometimes even 150-180. It is clear that the polyethylene foam canvases so beloved by domestic craftsmen will not cope with the assigned tasks. Here you definitely need to apply:

• basalt wool;
• Styrofoam;
• or extruded polystyrene foam.

Moreover, of all the options for density/thermal conductivity, it is worth giving preference to the most effective ones (thermal conductivity coefficient from 0.040 W/(m*K) and below), which will allow you to perform high-quality insulation and still help you save usable area.

Myth No. 4: The ceiling and floor need not be insulated

Sometimes you hear that a property owner does not want to spend money on thermal insulation of some elements of a balcony/loggia, since “the neighbors above and below also have glazed balconies.” But we cannot know what level of thermal insulation is implemented there; maybe there is no insulation in the structures at all, and cold glazing was used. Even if it turns out that the neighbors insulated properly, there is no guarantee that over time these or other residents will not change their minds and change something.

Also, do not forget that, as we have already noted, this is a powerful bridge of cold: concrete balcony slab Its three ends face the street. Therefore, in winter it freezes easily, and this happens all the more intensely if it is reliably fenced off from neighbors. heating system layer of heat insulator. That is, it does not warm up and cools even faster; this cold from the balcony will definitely go into your apartment.

Important! Due to the freezing of the massive element at the end, the blank walls of the loggias, even those isolated from the side of the adjacent apartment, are also subject to full insulation.

Myth No. 5: First of all, the frames are assembled, and then the insulation is laid

Frame sheathing really is the best option finishing the balcony, which is exposed additional insulation, after all wet method Bonded thermal insulation, as on the facade, seems to many to be too impractical indoors - for example, overly susceptible to squeezing. However, when assembling frames, craftsmen make the same mistake - first they install the subsystem close to the load-bearing base, and then attach polystyrene foam or stone wool. As a result, the thermal insulation layer breaks, and cold stripes are obtained, which are clearly visible when examining the frame with a thermal imager. It turns out especially bad if you use metal profiles instead of wooden blocks. Wood is preferable here; such insulation is, of course, better than nothing, but freezing is possible.

Important! The insulation, be it polystyrene foam or cotton wool, must be inserted behind the frame elements and the sheets joined tightly to each other and to the load-bearing elements. If foam plastic and EPS, such as penoplex, are used as an insulator, then it is recommended to foam the joints and gaps. When using direct hangers, they must be drilled in advance and secured to the base through thermal insulating gaskets, and the insulation can only then be placed on them by piercing (most likely, you will need elongated U-shaped brackets).

Myth No. 6: Moisture on the balcony is not particularly scary

Just exactly the opposite. There can be a lot of unpleasant options when water, during the operation of an insulated balcony/loggia, can get where it is not needed. The greatest danger is slanting rain. The glazed balcony is a prefabricated structure with a large number of elements and combinations of various materials. Water can get into the insulating layer through poor-quality connections, which then ceases to perform an insulating function. Most often, leakage is observed in the area where the frames meet the top and bottom slabs, if the ebbs/canopies are not installed correctly.

Important! It is mandatory and in a special way to use metal or plastic visors. The top one should be fixed to the slab, and the bottom one to the frame. Installation gaps must be filled with quality foam. By the way, we must not forget about the area where the frames meet and the outer wall of the house; very often they “forget” to use strips that protect the foam from both water and ultraviolet radiation.

If you need to make a roof, then you can’t do without a corner that will cover the joint roofing material and walls. It is best to use a Z-shaped galvanized profile with polymer coating, which with one shelf crashes into the wall. Also, if the humidity in the rooms sometimes rises too much, then it is recommended to cover the insulation from the inside with vapor barrier films and glue the panels with tape.

Myth No. 7: A radiator from under a window can be moved to the balcony parapet without any problems

For a number of reasons, this is not the most reasonable solution. If, after removing the balcony door block, the part of the wall on which the battery hung is also dismantled, then heating device It is better to install it on the side wall of the balcony. Even if you transfer to the front wall, you will have to install the supply and return lines open method. It is dangerous to lay the pipeline in the floor, as on almost any winter day, the pipes located in the thickness of the insulation can be thawed and damaged by destruction if the heating is stopped for even a day.

Perhaps the most practical and safe way to heat a glazed balcony would be electric heated floors. For example, implemented using self-regulating cables, rods or infrared film, which can be placed directly under finishing coat floor.

In this article we will talk about how to protect the walls of the loggia from the penetration of cold, and also give advice on what tools and materials will be useful to you for this purpose. But first I would like to dwell on the problems that will have to be overcome in the process of work.

Common mistakes

A serious problem is created by condensation that forms from the inside on the cold surface of the walls and ceiling. As a result, damp areas appear, which very quickly become covered with a layer of mold. This happens due to poor ventilation, improper insulation and heating systems.

When the ventilation of a room does not work correctly, the air quickly moves from the warm part of the apartment to the cold part, i.e. to the loggia. There excess moisture settles on the coldest surfaces. Ordinary doors that separate rooms with different spaces help to avoid such a negative effect. temperature conditions, and, consequently, with different humidity.

Insulation systems also cause a lot of trouble. If, for example, the insulation of walls and floors was done incorrectly, then moisture will certainly leave its traces on problem areas of the loggia.

If you decide to save on foam and instead seal the seams between the slabs with a putty mixture, then in these places condensation is very likely to settle with all the ensuing consequences. It is better not to make such mistakes at all, since eliminating them will be very difficult. Therefore, it is very important to adhere to the technology of all insulation processes.

Often the problem is a poor-quality loggia heating system. If this process occurs only due to warm air from next room, then mold will definitely form in the cold corners of the outdoor room. Therefore, it is advisable to start insulating the wall with insulating the floor on the loggia.

This is also important in order to comply with building codes, because the installation of water heating on balconies is prohibited. A well-equipped heated floor is sensitive to temperature changes in its various areas and automatically corrects this imbalance.

Silence

In addition to its main purpose, wall insulation also has other positive effects. It becomes much quieter on the loggia, which means the noise level is significantly reduced in the remaining rooms of the room.

After all, it is the loggia that is exposed to numerous noise impacts from the outside.

Material selection

The modern market of thermal insulation materials provides buyers with a huge selection, which is quite difficult for a beginner to understand, so it is better to seek advice from specialists. Many of them advise choosing extruded polystyrene foam or, as it is popularly called, penoplex.

This material has excellent heat-saving properties, high strength and low hygroscopicity. In addition, it is easy to process, boasting high environmental standards and chemical neutrality.

Other types of foam plastic are also widely used as insulation, however, unlike penoplex, they have more modest thermal insulation characteristics. Penofol and mineral wool are often used to insulate balconies and loggias.

Wall insulation

Insulation of balcony walls consists of several stages. Let's look at each of them in detail.

It is possible to successfully insulate a wall only if the appropriate preparatory work. Take the time to prepare, this will ensure excellent results.

First of all, thoroughly clean the walls of the old coating. It’s good if, before insulation, you replace outdated ones. window designs on double-glazed windows, and also remove old mounting foam from the frames.

To do this, it is best to use a stationery knife. If there are significant mold formations on the walls from the inside, you must get rid of them. In this case, a fungicidal spray will do.
Then you should carefully mark the lines for fixing the foam sheets.

Laying the insulating layer

Direct insulation of the walls of the loggia begins with laying a layer of foil-coated polystyrene foam. The sheets must be cut in advance and then securely fixed with special dowels and polyurethane glue.

Metal hangers are attached on top of the heat-reflecting layer, which act as an additional retainer. All seams and holes should be carefully insulated using special aluminum tape.

Laying the main insulation layer

On next stage The main layer of foam insulation is laid. Remember that you must first make holes in the sheets for aluminum hangers. The gaps between the plates should be minimal.

Penoplex boards should be securely fastened with glue and fastening materials, and each joint should be carefully sealed with polyurethane foam. Also pay attention to the pendants. For better sealing, after removing excess foam, you can use the same metal tape.
Next you should insulate outer wall loggias with a layer of foil foam. Try to carefully seal all seams and holes with metal tape.

Should all walls be insulated?

The fact is that the walls of the loggia are insulated from the inside quite well warm air next room. However, many experts believe that interior walls also require insulation. True, from the inside you can limit yourself to only two layers of foil foam and extruded thick polystyrene foam.

Insulation around windows

Insulating walls near windows is a rather labor-intensive process. In this area, sealing of all cracks, joints and seams should be done especially carefully and accurately.

We recommend using polyurethane foam and metal tape without fail. Do not forget that the foam should be given some time to dry. After this, be sure to remove all excess construction knife, and then seal the seams with aluminum tape.

On final stage When applying polyurethane foam, you will need a special solvent, which is designed to instantly remove its residues. This important procedure, because if the foam has time to harden, it will be quite difficult to remove it.

Finishing

After completing the thermal insulation of the loggia, you should think about finishing works, which also affect the degree of thermal insulation in the room. When all layers are laid and sealed, the metal hangers must be returned to their original position, and then the aluminum profiles must be attached to them.

It is convenient to attach almost any of the materials available on the modern construction market to these profiles. As finishing material wooden, cork and metal are perfect for loggia walls slatted panels, PVC structures, siding and many other options.

Has proven itself quite well moisture resistant drywall. The advantages of this material are its lightweight structure, which “breathes” well. Drywall is very affordable in terms of price, and it is also easy to process, paint, fix, and stick wallpaper on its surface.

At first, insulating a loggia may seem like a rather complicated and time-consuming process. However, if you decide to try, you will quickly realize that there are no particular difficulties here. All operations are quickly mastered and do not require special construction skills.

The balcony can also be turned into a comfortable and useful room. For example, equip it with an office, a workshop, a small sports section or comfortable room recreation.

Value of additional square meters in a city apartment it is difficult to overestimate. A loggia can be a cold island for storing things or a warm room for living. But, in order for it to be fully used, care must be taken to ensure an acceptable temperature in this room.

It has become the main task for those who want to expand the usable area of ​​the apartment.

The degree of insulation depends on the purpose of the room, as a living room or storage space.

And if the question of whether it is necessary to insulate the loggia has long been resolved, then there is still no consensus on the place of insulation.

Three directions for insulating a loggia

• insulation of the loggia from the outside– the preferred option. In this case, the freezing point shifts to the outside, i.e. towards the insulation installed outside the loggia. This will not only insulate the surface of the wall, but also preserve the load-bearing properties of the material from which it is built. In addition, it saves inner space loggias.

  The only drawback of insulation from the street is the cost of high-altitude work (industrial mountaineering). For insulation from the outside, hard thermal insulation material(expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam), which is covered with a polymer mesh and protected with strong cement mortar and/or decorative plaster;

  Note. In some cases, the decision on whether it is possible to insulate a loggia from the outside is determined by the City Council. For example, if a house is of architectural value, it is prohibited to carry out external work that changes the appearance of the building.

• double-sided insulation and finishing of the loggia. Involves installation of thermal insulation material outside and inside the loggia. Such a solution is inappropriate in principle, because From the point of view of thermal efficiency, it does not matter which side the work is carried out on.

• insulation of the loggia from the inside. Internal insulation is the most popular option, because... There is an opportunity to do the work yourself. However, in this case, the usable space of the loggia is reduced. Nevertheless, we will dwell on this option in more detail.

Do-it-yourself insulation of loggias - step-by-step instructions with photos

Simple technology for beginners without construction experience.

Step 1 – Determining the need for insulation

Depending on the future purpose of the room, a decision is made on whether it is necessary to insulate the loggia from the inside or outside, what type of insulation and what thickness will be used.

By definition, a loggia is a room in a building with one open side. This specificity allows owners to carry out insulation with lower financial costs compared to insulating a balcony.

The fact is that only one side will need to be insulated - the parapet of the loggia. As for the other sides, if they border the heated rooms of the apartment, there is no need to perform insulation.

Step 2 – Degree of insulation of the loggia

It is a mistake to think that glazing a loggia with double-glazed windows is sufficient. reliable way save heat in the room. In order to ensure the desired temperature in the room with minimal costs, you need to take care of the thermal insulation of all surfaces: walls, floors, ceilings. It is better to do the work simultaneously, but you can also do it in parts, the main thing is to follow the order.

Step 3 – Selecting insulation for the loggia

At first glance, the selection is not difficult. However, the variety of thermal insulation materials makes you wonder what is the best way to insulate a loggia from the inside.

• penofol(40-50 rub./sq.m.). Belongs to the group of semi-rigid insulation materials. It is distinguished by the presence of two layers: foamed polyethylene and foil, which will serve as a reflector (reflects up to 97% of thermal energy). Insulating a loggia with penofol is more justified than insulating a balcony with it, but despite this, the use of penofol alone is quite rare;

• Styrofoam(2560-3200 rub./cub.). Optimal price/quality ratio. Has excellent thermal insulation properties, non-hygroscopic, does not require the use of films, and is easy to install. The market offers foam with different densities (15, 25, 35 kg/m3) and different thicknesses sheet – 20-100 mm, which makes it possible to vary the thickness;

• expanded polystyrene(extruded foam plastic or penoplex) (3500-5000 rub./cube). Newer generation of foam plastics. While maintaining the advantages of polystyrene foam, it is distinguished by its high density (40, 100, 150 kg/m3) and a tongue-and-groove fastening system, which makes it possible to avoid cold bridges. Insulating a loggia with penoplex is one of the most effective methods of thermal insulation, but widespread use limits its cost;

  Note. Insulating a loggia with polystyrene foam is advisable if you need to minimize space loss during the thermal insulation process.

• cotton wool. Representative of soft insulation materials. Mineral (400-500 RUR/pack = 5.76 m2) or basalt wool (650-720 RUR/pack = 5.76 m2) are good because they make it possible to insulate a surface with uneven surfaces or cracks. The line of insulation of this type includes materials with different densities and prices. However, the general disadvantage of mineral wool is its susceptibility to moisture. This requires the use of waterproofing films;

• polyurethane foam. Thermal insulation material that is sprayed onto the surface under pressure, allowing you to fill the smallest cracks. Work on insulating a loggia is carried out quickly, but is expensive;

• expanded clay. Bulk insulation. It has significant weight and can only be used for floor insulation;

• aerated concrete. Allows you to level the walls and insulate them, but the usable area is reduced.

With the exception of expanded clay and aerated concrete, each of the insulation materials can be used to insulate a loggia.

Factors influencing the choice of insulation:

• technical condition of surfaces to be insulated: their configurations, the height of the floor/ceiling, the condition of the ceiling;

• number of surfaces to be insulated. Often the wall adjacent to the room is not insulated;

• climate. In regions with high humidity, it is undesirable to use soft insulation;

• environmental friendliness. Polystyrene foam is considered the least environmentally friendly material, basalt wool - the most;

• ease of installation. Rigid insulation is easier to install. When using them, you can do without forming a lath for laying soft wool. There is also no need to use films. Best qualities from the point of view of installation, polystyrene foam has, thanks to the tongue-and-groove system;

• type of finishing coating;

• cost of the project: insulation of the loggia on a turnkey basis or with your own hands.

Step 4 – Preparing materials and tools

For the work you need to prepare: thermal insulation material, polyurethane foam, primer, wooden beams (50x50, for the floor) and slats (50x30, for installing lathing under soft insulation), vapor and waterproofing film (for soft insulation), hardware, metallized tape, Decoration Materials.

Tools: hammer drill, drill, level, hammer, tape measure, foam gun, vacuum cleaner, stapler, pliers, pencil.

Note. Wooden beam can be replaced with a profile for plasterboard. The dimensions of the timber are determined by the thickness of the insulation.

Step 5 – Glazing the loggia

Glazing and insulation of loggias are two interdependent actions. Installing plastic windows you need to give preference to a 4-chamber profile and a 2-chamber double-glazed window. During installation, you need to ensure the tight fit of all structures. It is obligatory to install a low tide outside to prevent water from flowing in. A window sill is installed inside, taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Installing PVC windows makes it possible to increase the temperature on the loggia by 2-3 degrees compared to the temperature outside the window.

If it is not possible to replace old windows, they can be sealed. It is better to insulate loggia windows using Swedish technology. It makes it possible to increase the thermal insulation properties of windows without changing their functional characteristics.

Step 6 – Surface Preparation

Whatever type of insulation is carried out on the loggia, due to its small area, it must be freed from everything extraneous. It is for this reason that it is advisable to insulate the entire loggia at the same time.

Then the actions necessary for further work are performed:

• removing protruding parts that can be dismantled;

• punching and drilling walls. If necessary, electrify the loggia;

• processing of elements that cannot be dismantled. The metal is cleaned and coated with a primer;

• primer treatment of all surfaces of the loggia. This will prevent the development of fungus;

• cleaning.

Step 7 – Insulating the floor on the loggia

It is advisable to start insulation work from the floor.

Regardless of the material, it is carried out using logs. An exception is when laying insulation followed by screeding under tiles or when installing a heated floor system. The work is carried out in several stages:

• installation of penofol. This is not necessary, but experts advise laying penofol with the reflective side up. Due to the reflective ability of penofol, almost all the heat that comes from the wall adjacent to the room or from a heating source remains in the room;

• installation of logs. Before installation, the timber must be cut to size and treated with a primer. The longitudinal beam is laid at a distance of 50-70 mm from the walls, and the transverse beam with a pitch equal to the width of the insulation (for foam plastic 500 mm, for wool and expanded clay - 600 mm). The beams are attached to the floor with dowels. When installing the joists, make sure they are fastened correctly; in the future, they will serve as a guide for arranging the floor and installing the finished floor covering.

  Note. Installing joists close to the wall increases the risk of wood deformation if it gets wet.

• installation of insulation. Rigid insulation is placed between the joists. When insulating a loggia with foam plastic or polystyrene, it is not recommended to use thick material. Craftsmen advise purchasing thinner sheets and laying them offset. This minimizes the surface of cold bridges. Cotton wool is also placed between the joists so that the material is laid freely, without knocking down. A vapor barrier film is placed on top of the wool to prevent it from getting wet.

• seam sealing. If rigid insulation is laid with gaps, they need to be blown in with polyurethane foam, which is a good insulator.

• arrangement of the subfloor. It is not recommended to lay laminate or linoleum until the work is completed. If the floor is finished with tiles, it is installed immediately and protected (covered) with cardboard.

Note. Using a heated floor system will ensure heating of the loggia, because it is prohibited to remove central heating radiators, and the use of a heater does not provide a long-term effect.

Step 8 – Insulating the ceiling on the loggia

This stage can be eliminated if the floor of the neighbors above is insulated. If not, then the most simple solution The loggia will be insulated with polyurethane foam. It adheres well to any surface, and the work can be completed in a day.

Often, the insulation of the ceiling on a loggia is done with rigid insulation, or less often with cotton wool. The order of work may vary.

Option 1 - frame method of thermal insulation of the ceiling on the loggia

• installation of penofol. From physics course we know that warm air rises. And in order not to heat the floor of the neighbors above, it is advisable to install penofol on the ceiling;

• arrangement of the frame. For work, wooden slats are used, with a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation;

• the insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. If cotton wool is used, a vapor barrier film is additionally installed;

• The ceiling is being finished.

Option 2 - “wet” method of insulating the ceiling on the loggia

If the base of the ceiling is flat, you can glue rigid insulation to it. Additional fixation will be provided by the use of dowels with a large head. The junctions of the insulation sheets are foamed with foam. For additional effect, penofol is installed.

Option 3 – insulation of a suspended ceiling on a loggia

Place insulation (usually cotton wool) on the finishing material of the ceiling. Suitable for suspended ceilings or ceiling finishing with laminate or plastic panels.

Step 9 – Insulating the wall on the loggia

Insulating the walls of the loggia is the easiest step. However, it has an important feature, namely: the walls of the loggia are insulated in different ways.

• the wall adjacent to the room is insulated in one layer;

• the outer wall is insulated in two layers or a thicker thermal insulation material is used. Moreover, it is laid in pieces, and always with an offset.

Similar to work on the ceiling, there are two methods of insulation: “wet” and frame:

• "wet"– suitable for rigid insulation and the only one possible for aerated concrete. Often this method is used to insulate the loggia with penoplex.

• frame– Mandatory for soft materials. Without a frame, it is impossible to insulate a loggia with cotton wool. The frame can be made of wood or metal profile. The technology for laying wool on a wall is no different from installing it on a ceiling or floor. The protection of the cotton wool is ensured by the installation of the film.

The balcony is the part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people are starting to equip their balconies as additional space, for example, Personal Area. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to properly insulate the structure from the inside.

In this article we will look at three methods using different materials.

Stages of insulating a balcony

Insulation of the balcony from the inside is carried out in the following sequence:

No. 1. Insulating a balcony with polystyrene foam: sequence of work

If you chose polystyrene foam as insulation, then the sequence of work is as follows:

No. 2. Insulating a balcony with penoplex (video)

Penoplex is actively used for insulating rooms. You can attach it to the surface using bitumen mastics, polyurethane foam or mushroom dowels. Consider the option of mounting on polyurethane foam.

Mounting on polyurethane foam

So. Waterproofing is done. Polyurethane foam is applied around the perimeter of the insulation board. It's enough. After application, wait a couple of seconds and fix the slab on the insulated surface. The next slab is laid end to end with the first one. After two days, you can additionally secure the slabs with dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in in a similar manner which is described above. Finishing do it at your own discretion. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels; they look very original.

Additionally, we secure the slabs with dowels

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

The process of insulating the balcony is completed. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about it. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done this, then share your methods with readers in the comments.

No. 3. Balcony insulation with mineral wool: technology features

Insulation of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed sheathing. A lining is attached on top of the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is construction recommendation carry out insulation with outside building. However, when insulating balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials, so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetness of the walls, corners and ceilings inside the external structure.

Balcony insulation with mineral wool

What materials can be used to insulate a balcony? Which finish will reliably protect the insulation from the internal space and create aesthetic appearance internal walls?

IN modern technologies insulation of open hanging structures(balconies) four types of materials are used as internal insulation: foam plastic, penoplex, penofol and mineral wool. Let's consider technological features installation and types of cotton insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

Types of mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool represents soft material, which does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (they are unwound into a track before laying) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Photo: mineral wool with aluminum foil

Important! When installing, the foil should be located on the side of the room. Internal heat the room will be reflected from the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any type of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between the outer wall (ceiling, roof) and the frame supports. Wooden sticks or metal profiles can be used as supports, depending on what kind of cladding will be used in the future.

Lathing made of metal profiles

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the lathing frame is constructed of wood. Wooden sticks with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2 are installed, while you can save a little internal space on the balcony by installing sticks with a rectangular rather than square section (30 × 50 cm 2, 30 × 70 cm 2).

Wooden sheathing

All racks and horizontal lathing strips are installed below the level. Attaching vertical posts to concrete surface ceiling and floor is carried out with anchor bolts. TO vertical supports horizontal ones are attached. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, the horizontal strips are attached at three levels: knee, hip, shoulder.

Laying insulation

Note: Before installing the insulation, the walls are treated with an antifungal primer.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. The cotton material itself is breathable; it easily allows gaseous substances (air, steam) to pass through.

The insulation must be protected from getting wet

Considering that when internal insulation the point of condensation formation moves into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the penetration of steam or air from living quarters into the construction wool. For these purposes, a vapor barrier film is laid between the mineral wool and the finishing.

Interior decoration

Purpose interior decoration:

• Close the heat insulation material from the living space.
• Create an aesthetic inner covering walls of a room or insulated loggia.

Exist various materials for interior decoration of balconies (plasterboard, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed lattice frame, finishing is done by hanging various types panels: plywood, MDF, wood or plastic lining.

Wood-look plastic lining

The final finishing with clapboard is carried out by covering the walls with wooden (or plastic) clapboard panels, which have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and tightness of fastening. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper simulator wooden covering, laid according to internal walls balcony (or loggia). It is characterized by less strength and rigidity.

Plastic panels are easy to install

Wooden carriage panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, and have sufficient flooring rigidity. The ceiling of the loggia can be covered with plastic clapboard; the floor is covered with wood; as for the walls, both types of wagon covering (plastic and wood) can be used here.

Wooden clapboard finishing

After finishing inner surface treated with a composition that protects the wood from moisture and destruction.