We build the stairs ourselves to a new level. Instructions on how to properly make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands. Video: installation of a spiral staircase

Modern a private house must be equipped with a staircase for moving to the upper floors or attic space and an ordinary stepladder is unlikely to work here. It is necessary to build something more reliable and durable. For example, a staircase made of solid wood. A DIY wooden staircase will require special care at all stages of its manufacture.

Advantages

Wood is the most environmentally friendly and easiest to process material that does not require special processing skills. It can be used both for interior structures and for the porch of a house. Stairs on metal frame are considered much more reliable, but now we are not talking about them.

Completely wooden structures, which can be assembled as a construction set, have the following advantages:

  • acceptable price;
  • availability of material;
  • easy processing.

The most common material is pine. This is an inexpensive soft wood that is well suited for beginners. The disadvantage of pine is its soft texture, which is why during operation the structure may begin to darken and the steps to creak if the necessary wood treatment is not carried out before the construction of a porch made of a similar material begins.

When building a more reliable, beautiful and durable staircase design better use expensive varieties. Staircases made of solid beech, oak or larch have an inimitable structure and increased wear resistance due to the density of this material. The only drawback of these breeds is the high price.

Design

How to do wooden stairs for a porch or for a house made of solid oak, pine, ash and larch? Before studying the manufacturing instructions and talking about the frame and components, you need to understand what types of wooden structures you can assemble with your own hands. Conventionally, we can distinguish marching and spiral staircases.

Screw structures are used in rooms with limited space. These structures are not suitable for moving large objects and can only be used for human movement. Such a staircase will never be completely wooden, since the support (rod, pipe) is made of metal.

Marching stairs are the simplest to implement. Wooden structures of this kind on stringers or bowstrings are mounted both indoors and outdoors (mainly for the porch, which, as a rule, is located on a metal frame). At indoor installation the main criterion is ergonomics. That is why it is not so important what kind of staircase will be built in your room - one-flight, two-flight with a platform, or a design with winder steps. It is worth noting that it is not much more difficult than the straight line.

The main thing is that it fits perfectly into the space allocated to it and is in harmony in style with the engineering elements surrounding it. A wooden staircase inside a house means, first of all, warmth and comfort. These are not simple porch stairs or welded structures on a metal frame. To choose the right type of staircase structure, you need to measure the area on which the staircase will be located. Then make initial calculations and draw drawings. Detail drawing will show the location of the structure in the room and how ergonomic it will be.

Elements

Making wooden stairs from solid wood will require some knowledge about the elements of staircase structures. Let's understand the terminology.

  1. Bowstring – load-bearing beam and an element for additional fastening of the steps, located at the end of the latter.
  2. Stringers are the most common method of making wooden staircase structures. Cuts are made in load-bearing parallel beams on which treads are laid.
  3. Treads – the surface of a step.
  4. Risers are the vertical part of the step, mounted (if necessary) between the steps, covering the visible space.
  5. Balusters are a fencing element that gives the structure additional rigidity and strength. Attaches to steps and railings.
  6. Pillars (or support rod) - are installed mainly when installing screw structures as the main (central) load-bearing element.
  7. The railing is part of the enclosing structure of the staircase, attached to the top of the balusters or fastening spokes.
  8. Decorative elements – decorative overlays, stubs.

On bowstrings or stringers?

Stairs for the house on bowstrings and stringers are equally simple to make yourself. You should understand the difference between them. The strings are attached to the end of the tread using corners, grooves and wood glue or using bars. All this is held together with self-tapping screws or bolted connections.

Stringers are located under the steps and secured with special fastening fittings.

For the production of bowstrings and stringers, blanks from solid oak, ash, pine and larch are most often used. These tree species are the most common in the vast expanses of our homeland. For the manufacture of load-bearing elements woodworking enterprises use machines that dissolve logs into unedged board required thickness(and the load-bearing parts are at least 50 mm), when cutting which is formed finished timber(50x50, 50x100, etc.). If you decide to assemble the structure on bowstrings with your own hands, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with it.

Milling strings for steps

Making a stringer

Calculation

To make accurate calculations and draw up a drawing.

  1. The angle of inclination of the stairs should not be higher than 45 degrees.
  2. The tread depth should not be less than 250mm.
  3. The height of the riser is in the range of 160-200mm.
  4. The minimum opening width is 1000mm.
  5. The height of fences (railings) should not exceed 1000mm. For children, additional handrails are installed at a height of 600mm.
  6. The vertical opening should not be lower than 2000mm.

Applying these simple rules you can build a correct and convenient staircase structure for your house or porch.

Important!

It should be remembered that the topmost step must be level with the floor of the second floor, this applies to both concrete and wooden floors.

Marking and production of elements

Let's consider detailed instructions about how to make a wooden staircase for your home. After detailed calculations and analysis of the drawing, you can begin marking and manufacturing structural elements.

  1. We apply markings to the bowstrings or stringers. To do this, it is convenient to use a right triangle or a special corner with marked legs (rise height and tread width).
  2. We measure the length of the steps and risers, as well as other elements that we will cut out ourselves.
  3. We cut out all the elements of the staircase structure using an electric saw.
  4. Sanding everything wooden blanks stairs.
  5. If there is no opening for passage to the second floor, it is necessary to organize it by dismantling part of the ceiling.

Assembly and installation instructions

Assembling a staircase for a house on wooden stringers or bowstrings begins with the installation of load-bearing elements. Rigid fixation at the upper and lower points is carried out using corners, threaded connections, or anchors (depending on the material of the floor and floor). Before final fastening load-bearing structures It would be nice to check the coincidence of the horizons once again. To do this, use a level placed on the horizontal “notches” (the place where the future tread is attached). If the stringers were cut according to one pattern, then there is no need to worry too much. So, during the assembly process, do not be lazy to look at the drawing once again and keep a measuring tool at hand.

Log staircase

Quite often the question arises: “Is it possible to make a staircase from a log?” Of course you can. It cannot be made from just one log. Let's look at the options.

The logs are sawn in half. From these blanks steps and load-bearing parts will subsequently be made (one might say massive “strings”). For convenience, let's look at simple project- straight stairs. After processing front side Using an electric planer and an emery wheel, we begin marking inside. The steps and fasteners will be attached to it (a steel corner is the most suitable option for such a massive structure; it is secured with a threaded connection or an anchor).

We install our bowstrings, securing them to the ceiling and to the floor. In accordance with the markings, we use self-tapping screws to attach the bars to the bowstrings, which will support our steps made of half-logs (choose the width yourself). Immediately before fixing, we check the level of the horizon of each step. We drill a hole through the string into the end of the step, without allowing it to move. We lay the anchor and tighten it until it stops. There are four anchors for each step. Little secret fasteners - for greater reliability, drip silicone sealant inside the drilled hole, and then lay the anchor. The head of the anchor bolt can be hidden in a hidden compartment.

To install such a ladder, you can use threaded connections with the organization of hidden “windows” in the steps for tightening elements, but this requires serious skills in working with wood. This type of construction made from logs is much more reliable. You can also make steps for the porch stairs from logs, which is also very interesting.

Some manage to create something vaguely reminiscent of a ladder from one solid log by placing it under the right angle, and cutting into it the semblance of steps. It would be more correct to lay two logs in parallel as load-bearing stringers, make cuts in them for steps and attach the latter to the load-bearing parts. So you can make a staircase from a log. It remains to add that such a structure, if done correctly, will be no worse than concrete ones in terms of reliability. As you can see, marching structures are quite simple to install. If we talk about screw ones, then everything is somewhat more complicated. However, you can install it too.

Do-it-yourself log staircase

Processing of the finished product

All elements of the staircase structure are securely fastened and sanded. All that remains is to treat the surface of the porch or stairs for the house by special means protection from insects, from rotting and to give a beautiful appearance.
Indoor staircases should fit harmoniously into the interior of the room. Therefore, a varnish coating is used to process these structures. If necessary, the stairs can be tinted in suitable shades with colored varnish, stain, or whitened (this technique is now very popular).

The entire processing process can be divided into three main processes:

  • grinding;
  • primer;
  • varnish protection.

Advice!

When choosing materials for processing, it is better to give preference to alkyd and urethane varnishes.

It is very good to treat the porch of a wooden house with drying oil applied in several layers. This will prevent the structure from rotting and extend its life.

For a beginner without certain skills in working with tools, building a ladder on his own will not be easy. However, it is possible. The main thing is to correctly calculate and accurately mark the structural elements. Installing precisely calibrated parts will not be a big hassle.

Professional fabrication and installation wooden stairs

Oh Tom, with your own hands for the stairs and the porch.

You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not pay attention to minor defects during construction, which can subsequently lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. A staircase to the second floor made independently will give you several advantages:

  • the result will meet expectations;
  • will help save money and nerves;
  • a staircase made by yourself will become a source of pride for you.

If you are limited in cash to purchase materials, you can buy cheaper analogues: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be coated with varnish or paint.

In pursuit of savings, you can lose sight of quality. Although a cheap wooden staircase can also last for quite a long time, it will very soon begin to creak. To avoid this problem, the ladder must be assembled using silicone sealant, which is impossible to do without first painting the parts.

In this article we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands from wood and metal, and also show photo and video instructions.

To make an interfloor staircase, concrete with tile or marble cladding, metal (a welding machine is required), and wood can be used. The last option is the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is lightweight, easy to install and has a beautiful appearance.

If you have a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, you should give preference to straight structures, or with a staircase turning by 25%. The flight of stairs is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storing things. One cannot fail to note a minus: the free space on the upper and lower floors will be significantly reduced.

To save precious square meters A spiral staircase is ideal, but it is also not without its drawbacks:

  • the climb is too steep;
  • small width of stairs.

For installation spiral staircase 3 m² required free space and a lot of work.

Another option for constructing a staircase is possible, in which it is located along the surface of the wall. In this case, it is worth considering two marches and a turn. This way you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.

  1. Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first and second floors along with the ceiling. This way you will determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18–20 cm. Next, dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you will get the total number of steps.
  2. Projection of dimensions onto the floor surface. To design the structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (approximately 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. As a result, you will get the projection size.
  3. Manufacturing of staircase elements. To make a stringer you will need timber measuring 14×16, steps – 4 cm boards, risers – 2.5 cm boards. You will determine the length of the step yourself, remembering that the larger it is, the better.
  4. Preliminary fitting. If everything fits during the preliminary fitting of parts, process each element grinder and assemble the structure. To fix the staircase parts together, coat all places where they come into contact with each other with glue (PVA or wood glue) and additionally secure with screws.
  5. Stain and varnish coating. First, apply stain to the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover it with several layers of varnish.

As design solution You can consider the mortise steps, which are inserted into the grooves cut in the stringer:

  1. Make markings on the stringer where the steps will be installed. Using a hacksaw and chisel, cut out the grooves.
  2. Make several 9mm holes in the center of the groove.
  3. Screw the turbo couplings into the holes made.
  4. Install the step into the groove and tighten with bolts.

When purchasing planed wood, you must consider the following requirements:

  • there should be no dark spots on the surface;
  • The presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.

Knots (diameter up to 1 cm) can only be present if the material is used to make steps or risers. Also pay attention to humidity; the large mass of the board indicates that you should refuse the purchase.

When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and desire will help you achieve the desired result.

Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of making wooden stairs. First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual design details. To do this, take well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. Several factors should be taken into account:

  • The strength and reliability of the staircase will entirely depend on the correct cutting of the stringers. Therefore, their production must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the stringer it is necessary to select a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45–50 mm.
  • The board for risers can be 15–20 mm thicker than what is allocated for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves should be ideal flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be between 30–35 mm.
  • If you want to do closed staircase with risers, their manufacture must also be extremely careful. Its thickness should not be large, 15–20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
  • As for balusters and handrails, it is recommended to purchase them ready-made with stationary fastenings.

If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.

When all the design blanks are ready, you can begin the most important stage of work - installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:

  • Stringers are installed at the selected location. To do this, attach a support beam to the floor; it is on it that the stringer will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out in a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, it is used for fastening metal support. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. When installing the stringer, be sure to check everything for a level or plumb line.
  • Before laying the tread fabric, you should screw the risers.

  • After this, treads are fixed with self-tapping screws on the stringers and on top of the risers in the direction from bottom to top.
  • After this, the balusters are installed.

So, you install support drains on top of the stairs and below. They will serve as the border of the handrails and also support the railing.

In addition, the support posts serve as decorative elements. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.

Balusters, in turn, can have different shapes, sizes and methods of fastening. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be covered with a decorative plug. Further work looks like this:

  • On top of the installed balusters, attach the railings to the outer support posts. Additionally, you can install 1 or 2 additional support posts in the middle.
  • When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters, several boards can be installed between the posts parallel to the slope of the stairs.
  • On next stage You can start sanding using sandpaper or a sander. After this, the paint coating is applied.

The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and mold/mildew. The structure must dry, after which you can begin the main painting.

The staircase is varnished on water based, hot wax or paint. You can also cover the wood with stain, which will slightly darken the structure. It all depends on your desire.

Thus, the wooden staircase is ready for use.

A staircase made of metal requires a lot of labor, plus not everyone has the skills to work with welding machine. And yet, if you are ready to carry out work of this kind, then you need to prepare the following set of tools:

  • Welding machine and electrodes for direct currentØ3.2 and 1.6 mm.
  • Welder protective mask.
  • Mittens.
  • Grinder and cutting discs 125×1.6 mm.
  • Sanding disc 125 mm.
  • Drill and set of drills for metal.
  • Metal table.
  • Clamp that can be adjusted from 0 to 800 mm in height.
  • Vise.
  • Pencil.
  • Square.
  • Roulette.
  • Metal paint.
  • White Spirit.
  • Primer.

Given all this, and also suitable material you can start installation work. As for the selection of material, this can be done according to the completed drawing. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the principle of manufacturing a metal staircase on two stringers.

It is worth immediately noting that the entire process consists of the following step-by-step actions:

  1. Manufacturing of blanks.
  2. Making fillies, i.e. step fastening units.
  3. Welding the support corner.
  4. Installation of the stringer.
  5. Welding steps and railings.
  6. Sanding and priming/painting.

All work should be done slowly, strictly adhering to all dimensions of the drawing. Otherwise, any small distortion will be problematic to correct; moreover, it will ruin appearance finished design. So, the work is carried out as follows:

  • It is necessary to make fastenings for steps (fillies) from the corners. In relation to each other, they should be mirror images.
  • You can make fillies from a corner. To do this, cut out the samples and join the corners together. The result should be L-shaped blanks with shelves down and inward. Depending on the number of steps, you make a pair of fillies. One of them will be left, the other will be right.
  • Between each pair of angles, weld brackets for attaching the step and crossbar. The crossbar is similarly made from a corner.
  • To increase strength, you can install small gussets at the bottom of the step towards the stringer.
  • Now take the square one profile pipe and make markings on it, or rather, on its edge. Using it you can weld the fillies to the stringer. Transfer exactly the same markings to another stringer. As a result, it will be possible to achieve the geometry of the entire structure.

If the metal staircase is more than 1.2 m wide, then you will need to install an additional stringer.

Next you need to attach the stringer. At the bottom it is welded to the support platform, and at the top it is fixed to the floor slab or to the wall with anchors. In each individual case, the fastening method may differ. Therefore, be guided by the features of your opening. During this process, it is important to stay level. Moreover, the two stringers must be strictly at the same level. Finally, all that remains is to weld the steps to the fillets. As an option, you can install wooden steps on the fillies. But for this you need to use fastening bolts.

The topmost step should be installed as close to the wall as possible (if the stringers are anchored to the wall). Next, weld the fence. At the same time, install it on the side so as not to reduce the width of the steps.

When arranging the railings, you can use forging or purchase prepared elements. Here again, it all depends on your personal taste and vision of the final result.

When all welding work completed, it's time to grind all the weld joints. It is also necessary to remove all burrs and nicks. Using wire brush, sweep away all particles. After this, the surface of the stairs is primed and painted in the desired color.

If the steps are wooden, then their installation is carried out after the paint has dried.

Finally, you can decorate the stairs. For example, cover the steps from the bottom with wood. You can also make fencing from of stainless steel. Lay out the steps ceramic tiles. Due to this, a seemingly careless and bulky design will acquire beautiful outlines and will be an excellent addition to the interior of the house.

Although this entire process may seem straightforward, working with metal is very tedious. Unlike working with wood, when it is easy to correct defects and shortcomings, working with metal is much more problematic. However, the service life of the entire structure significantly exceeds its wooden counterpart.

Speaking of attractiveness and bright element interior, then competitors to the spiral staircase can hardly be found. If properly constructed, it will last for many years. It can be made from wood or metal with forged elements. There are 4 main types of spiral staircases:

  1. A design with wedge-shaped steps, the narrow side resting on a supporting central column, and the wide side resting on a wall or fabricated frame. In this case, spiral bowstrings are constructed on stringers.
  2. Separately standing structure, remote from the walls with cantilevered steps on a monolithic pillar located in the center.
  3. Design without central support pillar. The support for the steps is curved bowstrings or stringers, which smoothly turn into railings. This option is very beautiful and sophisticated. However, it is very difficult to manufacture.
  4. Design with a central support rod (asbestos-cement or steel pipeØ50 mm). This type of staircase is the most common.

As practice shows, the most convenient spiral staircases are those with a span of 0.8–0.9 m wide. As a result, the diameter of the entire staircase structure will reach up to 2 m, this taking into account the central support post and railings. If we talk about the shape of the staircase, it can be round, square, rectangular or oval.

If the traffic intensity in your house is low, then the total diameter of the stairs is sufficient to make it up to 1.5 m. In this case, the treads will have a width of up to 0.6 m.

It is also necessary to consider the ergonomics of the spiral staircase. The principle of the size and height of steps is the same as on ordinary straight stairs; we have already talked about such measurements above. But there are some features, namely a comfortable lifting height for a person. For example, we suggest you consider the option of a spiral staircase, 3 m high and 0.8 m wide.

The calculations are presented below:

  • The total diameter of the staircase with these dimensions is equal to twice the width of the flight, and the thickness of the support post is 20 cm. As a result, we get the following - D = 0.8 × 2 + 0.20 = 1.8 m.
  • The lifting radius is equal to half the width of the flight of stairs and support: Rn = 0.4 + 0.1 = 0.5 cm.
  • Now, by dividing the length of the movement trajectory by the depth of the tread, you can determine the number of steps in one turn: L = 2 π: 200 = 2 × 3.14 × 500: 200 = 17.2. As a result, there can be 17 steps in one flight of stairs.
  • It is also necessary to calculate the ergonomic height of the step. This must be done taking into account that a person can move freely at full height. Let's take as an example a height of 1.8 m, add operational 20 to this value and divide by the number of steps in one turn. The result is this: h = 2000: 17 = 120 mm.

If the spiral staircase has a height of 3 m, then to determine the number of steps, do the following: n = 3000: 120 = 25. The result is 25 steps, 12 cm high.

In order for a spiral staircase to be durable and easy to use, it is important to follow the following rules:

  1. It is better not to install risers on a spiral staircase. This will increase the safety of the structure, and the foot will rest well on the step and will not slip off the step in a narrow place.
  2. If the passage height is 2 m, then even A tall man will be able to comfortably move up stairs.
  3. To install the support post, select a location that will support the weight of the entire structure and 2-3 people.

For steps, it is best to choose a durable type of wood, such as oak or beech. Although it is much easier to buy ready-made steps. For example, you buy a step rectangular shape, and cut out the required configuration from it. The thickness of the product can be 40 mm or 30 mm. If one step is divided diagonally, the result will be two steps at once. The edges of the workpiece must be rounded and sanded with a grinder. Then you can varnish or paint them. A special bushing should be attached to the step, which will hold it on the support post.

Some people don't want to build cottage and they are building a multi-story building, and it will be impossible to move around the house without stairs. There are stairs different forms and made from different materials. The stairs that are located between floors are made of metal and.


The design and calculations for stairs located between floors made of any materials are no different.

They have the usual requirements:

  • In a private house, the smallest staircase width is 900 centimeters.
  • The normal height of steps is 160 - 180 millimeters.
  • The minimum permissible depth of steps is 270 millimeters.
  • The railings on the stairs must withstand about one hundred kilograms of lateral pressure.
  • The distance between the railing posts should be 150 millimeters and, if there are children in the family, this distance should be 120 millimeters.
  • Stairs are made forged and welded.

There are the following types:


There are stairs:

If you do not have special skills in building stairs, then start with simple option, that is, with a single-flight design.

Necessary calculations


Organizations that develop projects use special ones to design 3D models of structures using these programs. In the model, it is very easy to change the parameters of different parts.

After approval of the final version, the computer program prepares specifications and drawings of the metal staircase.


But in our case, the calculations will have to be done without help computer program. We will consider a simple version of a direct single-flight design.

The basic requirements for the depth and height of steps are already known. It is necessary to take measurements between points, that is, from the beginning to the end of the stairs from the floor of the first floor and the height between the floors of the first and second floors. Now we determine the length of the stairs; we must remember that the average angle of inclination is from thirty to forty-five degrees.

We calculate the available parameters and extract Square root and get the length of the stairs.

Materials and tools required for work

To build an interfloor metal staircase, we need to build an interfloor metal staircase You will need the following tools and materials.

Tools:


Materials:


Carrying out work

Stages of work:


First of all, angles for attaching steps, that is, fillets, are made from corners.

You cannot make a mistake so that there are no various distortions and flaws that will spoil the stairs.


Also, the fillies must be identical and must be exactly opposite each other. The fillies are made from a corner by cutting out a sample and joining the corners together.

The result is L-shaped nodes with the shelves down and inward. For our design, fourteen pairs of these nodes are needed, and in each pair, one support will be left and the second will be right. Then we weld the brackets to connect the steps and the horizontal crossbar between each pair of corners.


We also make the horizontal crossbar from a corner. The structure is strengthened with the help of gussets; we weld them from the bottom of the step towards each of the stringers.

Along the edge square pipe We make markings from the profile and, according to the markings, weld the fillets to the edge of the stringer, attach the second stringer to the first stringer with fillets and transfer the markings.


We make and then weld the stringers with the lower end to the support platform. If in houses concrete foundation, then the support platform is installed in concrete. We attach the upper end to the support post; the support post is secured to the ceiling between the floors with steel anchors. Then the fillies need to be checked for level again.

If the staircase is made near a wall, then to add rigidity to the structure, one stringer is welded to brackets that are fixed to the wall.

They involve welding the steps to the fillets, you can also secure them with bolts, but in this case you need to cover the steps with wood. The steps can also be installed on wooden steps using screw connections.

It seems that constructing an interfloor staircase structure is not such a difficult task, but this work requires precision, accuracy and care.


In the article we told you how to make a metal staircase to the second floor.

Single-story buildings in the private sector are erected only to provide economic activity, and are used as auxiliary buildings. A full-fledged residential building with at least 2 floors. Therefore, one cannot do without such a functional element as a staircase to the second floor.

The problem of moving from one level to another can be solved simply - buy a ready-made kit and install it yourself.

Its cost starts from approximately 33,000 rubles (pine, 14 steps, turning staircase with two flights). Do-it-yourself installation is easy. The problem is different - how will it fit into the interior, will it be necessary to adjust individual elements or partially reconstruct the 1st floor?

Many companies provide services for the production of sets according to customer drawings, but as practice shows, such stairs are 1.5 times more expensive. That is why, most often, the most acceptable option is to make a wooden staircase with your own hands, from scratch.

How to do this, what to pay attention to - this is what this article is devoted to.

Terminology

Before we look at design features, it is necessary to “decipher” some specific definitions. The main elements are shown in the diagrams.

  • Step. Its horizontal part is called the tread, the vertical part (it may not exist) is called the riser.
  • Support beams. If the steps are adjacent to them with the end parts, then this is a bowstring. If they “overlap” the beam and their edges protrude beyond it, then it is called a stringer.
  • Railing supports. They are more often called balusters or pillars. For a screw structure, the term rack is used.
  • Fasteners. In some types of stairs, the steps are fixed directly to the adjacent wall using special bolts - bolts.

Types of staircase designs

For self-made the simplest ones are marching ones. For a private house they are installed in one or two bays. Spiral staircases for self-assembly much more complicated (discussed here). In addition, production necessary calculations has its own specifics for them.

Features of calculating staircase parameters

The following are given general recommendations, which it is only advisable to focus on when designing an internal staircase. Since all houses (and premises) differ in architecture, dimensions, and layout, there cannot be any single template in principle.

Steepness

The optimal slope of the flights is in the range from 35 to 450. Steeper stairs are much more difficult to climb (especially for people with disabilities, the elderly or small children). And carrying large, heavy items from floor to floor will also become more difficult.

A flatter design is inconvenient because it will require more space for its installation, since the length of each span will increase. And what specific angle to choose is at the discretion of the owner.

Width

It is unlikely that anyone in a private house will move from floor to floor as part of a “group of comrades”, so when drawing up a diagram it is advisable to focus on the dimensions of one person. A staircase with a width of about 1.2 - 1.5 m for a private house is a completely acceptable option. And walking on it, and even carrying pieces of furniture will be quite convenient.

Step parameters

  • Tread. It should completely fit a person’s foot (based on size 45), so optimal width steps - within 250 - 300 mm.
  • Riser. In order to make it convenient for people of any height and age to move, its height is taken within the range of 150 - 200 mm. Quite sufficient, regardless of design.

On a note! All specified dimensions are absolutely the same for each step of one staircase. Otherwise, there is no need to talk about ease of movement.

Stair height

Defined as the distance from flooring ground floor to ceiling + floor thickness. For example, 270 + 40 - 310 (cm).

Number of steps

The height of the structure (310) is divided into the sum of the size of the riser and the thickness of the tread board, and then rounded up to a whole value (up). For example, if a “magpie” is used, then 20 + 4 = 24 cm.

Total - 310: 24 = 13 (steps).

Recommendation - for stairs with more than 18 steps and a steepness of 450, special platforms should be installed. Depending on their purpose, they are called differently - rotary, viewing, intermediate. Consequently, the staircase itself will already consist of separate flights (flights). They can be of the same type, or made according to various schemes, since the site is not necessarily located exactly in the center of the structure.

Stair length

It is not difficult to determine, knowing the number of steps and the size of each tread. These values ​​are multiplied. If the steps have protrusions, they are not taken into account.

Sometimes calculations show that such a design “does not fit” in a particular room. In such cases, either the number of marches is increased, or so-called winder (turning) steps are installed.

Winder steps - top view

Span height relative to floor

It is necessary to focus on human height + a small margin. The optimal design is considered to be one in which the distance between the outer steps and the ceiling is at least 2 m. Otherwise, a tall person will have to bow his head at the end of the flight.

Materials

In most cases, the type of wood chosen is pine. It is inexpensive, but it is not characterized by durability. Larch is in many ways preferable. The presence of a special resin in its structure makes the material even stronger when absorbing moisture. And this is for home stairs, given the specifics of its operation, this is important. All other options, for example, oak, cedar, maple and a number of others cannot be called budget.

Before you start working with wood, it must be thoroughly dried. Further shrinkage of the material (including twisting) will lead to the ladder literally falling apart.

Work procedure for installing stairs

Let's take a closer look simple example- single-flight stairs. This option can be considered basic, since the algorithm of actions is the same, regardless of the number of spans.

Preparation of structural elements

  • Stringers. The main requirement is that they must be absolutely identical. The board is only solid, without defects, no less than “forty”. Accordingly, cuts are made in advance for the steps.
  • Steps. The edges must be rounded, as sharp edges increase the risk of injury. The board chosen is absolutely flat, carefully processed (polished). The length is calculated so that their edges protrude beyond the stringers by no more than 2 - 4 cm. Thickness - within 300 - 400 mm.
  • Risers. They do not experience significant load, since it falls mainly on the support beams. In order not to increase total weight span, 15 boards are enough for them.

Advice - for a private house it is better not to install risers, since cleaning a staircase of this (closed) type is much more difficult.

  • Handrails, balusters. It is unlikely to be possible to make them yourself so that the staircase becomes not only a means of transportation, but also a decoration of the house. Therefore, these structural elements should either be purchased in a store or ordered from a workshop.

Assembling the stairs

Wall marking

In accordance with the installation diagram and drawing.

Fastening support beams (stringers)

The upper part of the march is fixed in different ways (whatever is more convenient). Option No. 1 - cuts are made in the floor beam. Option No. 2 - metal stops are used, which are secured to the beam with anchors. In any case, the connection point structural elements should be as reliable as possible.

To secure the bottom of the stringers, a support beam is mounted on the floor. To the wall - fixation with anchor bolts.

Installation of risers

If they are mounted, they are screwed to the stringers.

Laying steps

They are fixed both on the support beams and on the risers (at least at one point, in the center).

For ease of operation, the installation of steps begins from the bottom. The options are shown in the diagram.

Installation of balusters

First of all, the extreme ones are fixed - at the top and bottom of the march. A “string” is stretched between them, focusing on which, you can mount the remaining racks.

Installation of handrails

They are fixed on each of the racks, which are located on the march. They can be made from almost any material - metal, plastic, not just wood.

Treatment

The article outlines only general order actions and basic recommendations were given. Having decided on a specific staircase design, you should study all available material on this topic, since for different models there are some nuances of both installation and calculations of individual components. For example, rotary steps, which can be either rectangular or segmental.

You can watch the video instructions for making a wooden staircase:

But the general operating regulations are described in detail, and the author hopes that this article will help the reader in the matter of independent construction. Good luck!

  • Samples of finished stairs

When building a house with at least 2 floors, you definitely need to think about the stairs in it. And if the house is built with your own hands, it is logical to build the stairs as well.

Various photos of stairs help you make a preliminary choice and clearly understand what type of lift you need. But before you start doing the work, do the math carefully. future design on strength and size, this will save time and money, because incorrect calculations (or lack thereof) will lead to numerous alterations of the original project.

Types of stairs

Exists a large number of different options flights of stairs. They differ in the material of manufacture (wood, concrete or metal), the type of rise (sloping staircase, spiral staircase, with a turn at a certain degree).

The most common is a wooden staircase. Staircases are also often constructed with a 90-degree turn. It is not uncommon for these two types of lifting devices to be combined into one.

When limited space, make a spiral staircase out of metal. The screw type of lift allows you to save space, and making it from metal increases the strength of the structure. Concrete is used for stairs in massive buildings (for example, mansions).

What to pay attention to

In a low-rise building, without construction experience, it is better to order modular staircase, a kind of construction set where all the parts are cut out and numbered, and all you have to do is assemble them using the instructions. This is how wooden stairs are usually made.

When building a concrete staircase, in addition to pouring the frame, you will need to external finishing (beautiful stone or wood materials). It turns out to be a double waste of time and money. However, for cottages with 3 or more floors, they are mandatory according to fire safety requirements.

When making a ladder for the first time, you don’t need to swing at it right away. complex design. The simpler the model, the more likely it is that you will be able to successfully build this lifting device on the first try.

Pay attention to the angle of inclination of the stairs: if it is more than 45 degrees, the ladder will be considered an extension, and you can only go down it backwards. The optimal elevation angle is considered to be 37 degrees.

Wood is preferable as a material for construction, since, thanks to its properties, it allows you to correct minor construction flaws that arose due to inaccurate calculations and inexperience of the work performer.

Also, after construction, the building may settle due to loose soil, as a result the staircase can become several centimeters higher or lower than the floor, and it is easier to correct this in a wooden structure.

When constructing a lift with a turn towards, the distance between spans must be at least 100 mm.

Construction stages

Answering the question of how to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, there are several stages of construction.

The first stage of any structure, be it a staircase to a house, or interfloor staircase, is the creation of the project. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the safety of the building and its ease of use.

The structure must withstand average weight ordinary person with a fair amount of reserve. Be sure to use railings!

If they are not there, another fence must be designed to ensure the safety of descent and ascent.

Consider creating a wooden staircase with stringers

After you have designed your building, you need to prepare the materials. In our case, choose boards of suitable thickness and length, prepare balusters with railings and prepare stringers. This will be the second stage of construction.

As a material for stringers a board will do made of pine 4 cm thick. Mark the steps on it according to the pattern and cut it out with a jigsaw.

Note!

We use the resulting product as a sample for the second (and if the width of the stairs more than a meter then and the third) kosour. Cut to size required amount steps.

The third stage will be assembling all the parts together. First of all, the stringers are installed in their permanent locations. Then, using self-tapping screws, the steps are attached to the stringers.

Then, using pins, balusters are placed on the steps, and handrails are attached to them. The staircase is ready!

DIY staircase photo

Note!