06.06.2016

A bathtub is an absolutely necessary and extremely capricious element of a bathroom interior. After just a couple of years of use, yellowish streaks, stains, scratches that retain dirt, and small chips are sure to appear in the bowl. Such a bath inevitably spoils the view new room and attracts the curious gaze of guests. In cases where you don’t want to do any repairs yet, but really want to update the bath itself, you can do painting by yourself this plumbing. It will take a little effort, time and desire for change. And, of course, high-quality paint, specially created for such purposes. So, let's figure out how to paint a bathtub - inside and out.

Painting the inside of the bath

Whatever material your bathtub is made of (cast iron, earthenware, etc.), over time it will inevitably begin to gradually deteriorate. The reasons for this are exposure to hard water, detergents and cleaning agents, and mechanical damage. That is why, in the best case, after a couple of years, your bathtub begins to turn yellow, streaks, chips and scratches appear, which even powerful cleaners, coupled with your sincere desire to get rid of the misfortune, cannot cope with. If repairing and replacing the bathtub is not part of your plans, there is only one thing left to do: paint and thereby update the already worn-out specimen. It’s not difficult to do, you just need to stock up necessary materials, and also follow the technology of painting the bathtub on your own. So, we will need:

• Cleaning agent
• Electric drill or grinder with abrasive attachments
• Hard wire brush or sandpaper
• Degreaser
• Masking tape and film

1. Cleaning

First of all, the surface of the bathtub must be carefully prepared for subsequent painting. Using a strong cleaning agent and a sponge, remove dirt, grease and limescale from it.

2. Sanding

Now the surface must be cleaned by removing upper layer old covering. For this purpose, an electric drill or grinder with abrasive attachments is used. Places where it is difficult for the device to penetrate are sanded using a hard metal brush or skins by hand.

After this treatment, the surface should become matte, without visible dirt. As experts advise, try it with your fingernail: it should not slip.

When carrying out grinding and subsequent work, be sure to protect your respiratory organs with a respirator and your hands with rubber gloves.

3. Degrease

Remove dust and remaining dirt with a degreaser. Regular acetone is suitable for this purpose. Then dry the bath with a hairdryer. It is important at this stage not to touch the inner prepared surface with your hands. Any dust or grease from your fingers can affect your painting results.

4. We paint

Now you can start painting. Since we will be using spray paint, the surface must be limited using masking tape and film or masking paper. This way we will protect those areas where paint should not be.

Before spraying, the paint can must be shaken vigorously for several minutes. The metal ball inside will mix the contents until smooth, which will allow you to achieve best results painting.

Enamel for ceramics and enamel coatings Motip should be applied evenly from a distance of 25–30 cm. Apply several thin layers, allowing each to dry for 5–7 minutes. Do not apply a thick layer of paint, otherwise drips may appear. Three to four thin layers will be enough for an excellent result.

After spraying the paint, the bathtub can only be used after 24 hours. The durable snow-white coating will be ready for use!

By the way, if the paint canister is not completely used, turn it upside down and spray until clean gas comes out. Otherwise, the paint will dry out in the sprayer and you will not be able to use it next time.

Important!

When using an aerosol can, you don't have to deal with the brush and its loose and stuck bristles. After all, for this kind of painting it must be new, and a new brush, as you know, “climbs.”

Don't spray too much paint. It has great dissolving power - even the old layer of enamel can leak. Apply thin layers of new coating.

For 5 hours after painting, all windows and doors to the bathroom must be closed. This way you will prevent dust from getting onto the freshly painted surface. Constant temperature and humidity in the room will contribute to the formation of a durable and durable coating.

By the way, with the help of enamel for ceramics and Motip enamel coatings, you can not only update your bathtub, but also paint your sink, bidet, washing machine, refrigerator, siphon and even ceramic tiles! The updated elements will serve you for many years after this treatment.

Decorating the outside of the bath

Using spray paint is a great opportunity not only to update the inside surface of the bathtub, but also to create original decor on its outer part. IN modern design In the bathroom, a bathtub painted on the outside with bright paint looks great. You can experiment and create an unusual pattern on its surface using a stencil or masking tape. That is why for such painting work perfect acrylic paints. After all, the outer surface of the bathtub is not exposed to such intense influence as the inner one. These paints have an affordable price, dry quickly and demonstrate excellent performance characteristics.

Eg, excellent choice will be Crafts Spray paints. In a wide palette of aerosols you can choose exactly the color that suits your needs. the best way will highlight the originality of your bathroom design.

To paint the outside of the bathtub, we will need almost the same materials as for the previous option:

• Cleaning agent
• Abrasive material
• Degreaser
• Primer Crafts Spray
• Enamel spray Crafts Spray
• Crafts Spray Varnish
• Masking tape and film
• Respirator, rubber gloves

First, carefully cover the inside of the bathtub, as well as the surrounding area, using masking tape and film or old newspapers. The steps for preparing the external surface for painting are the same. We clean the bathtub, treat it with an abrasive, and remove dust and dirt with a degreaser. Before painting, it is better to apply Crafts Spray primer to improve adhesion of the surface to subsequent coatings. After carefully spraying several layers of paint, you need to wait for it completely dry, and then apply Crafts Spray to increase the durability and resistance of the finish.

If you want to create a pattern, use a stencil. After securing it with masking tape, spray the paint, wait until it dries, and then carefully peel the stencil off the surface. Ordinary masking tape can also help in applying an original geometric pattern. Paint the bathtub one color, wait for it to dry, and then apply strips of tape according to your imagination. Spray a different shade of paint over the top. Once it's dry, peel off the tape and admire the creative look of your bathtub!

How to clean a painted bathtub?

The painted coating will serve you faithfully for several more years. Your task is timely and regular care of the bathtub surface. The painted coating should not be rubbed with abrasive substances or a sponge with a hard base. It is best to use a product that has a powerful, but at the same time delicate formula. can be used to clean acrylic and plastic surfaces, as well as enameled, chrome-plated and painted surfaces. It will perfectly clean your bathtub of any kind of dirt and will not harm the surface covered with paint.

Examples of successful bath painting

August 16, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Painting the walls in the bathroom is one of the simplest (at first glance!) techniques for decorating a room. It is precisely because of this apparent simplicity that inexperienced craftsmen often choose it. But then they are almost guaranteed to encounter difficulties and understand that in order to achieve a result it is necessary to make no effort at all. less effort than when finishing with other materials.

Be that as it may, even a beginner can learn to paint walls in the bathroom - and for this in the article I will share my own experience, as well as give recommendations from other masters.

Materials for work

Moisture-resistant paints

The traditional method of finishing a bathroom is tiling it. However, this technology is very expensive, and also requires certain skills, so beginners often look for something to paint the walls in the bathroom instead of tiles.

To finish surfaces that are almost 100% likely to come into contact with moisture, you can use a variety of compositions:

1. Water-based paint with additives that protect it from erosion. Water-based emulsion itself does not respond well to moisture, so areas where water is guaranteed to get in should not be finished with such material. But to the question of whether it is possible to paint walls that will not be in direct contact with moisture with water-based pigments, a positive answer can be given.
2. Oil paint is an option that is practically not used today, but in the past it was one of the main ones. Yes, it is characterized by acceptable moisture resistance, but at the same time it dries slowly, and with temperature changes in the room it is almost guaranteed to begin to peel off from the base.

1. Alkyd enamel - probably best choice in situations where the priority is to protect the base from getting wet. After polymerization, the enamel layer becomes almost airtight, and the wall becomes almost completely moisture resistant. But if you need paint without , then alkyd compounds are not suitable here - even a few days after application, a peculiar “aroma” will be felt.
2. When choosing which paint is best to paint walls in bathrooms, experts most often give preference to acrylic (latex) pigments. Basically, the best option It’s really hard to find: acrylic and acrylic-latex complex have good coverage and good adhesion to any surface, they are non-toxic and easy to apply to walls. The moisture resistance of acrylic is quite acceptable: if you do not rub the wall with a sponge and detergent and promptly remove wet stains, the finish will last for many years.

1. Silico new paint for bathroom walls - this is another very worthy solution. Silicone compositions are characterized by increased moisture resistance, and if not for the price (it must be admitted that it is considerable), then I would confidently recommend these pigments as a universal solution.

Washable coatings - what are their advantages?

Tiling and painting the walls of a room such as a bathroom perform a common function - in addition to decoration, they also protect load-bearing surfaces from moisture. But in some cases, simple protection is not enough: Where drops of water regularly fall, washable paint is needed.

It is worth drawing a clear line between moisture-resistant and washable pigments:

1. Moisture-resistant paint is a paint that can withstand a long time in a room with high humidity without changing its appearance and other physical and chemical parameters. If water periodically gets on it, it’s okay, but regular moistening will cause rapid degradation of the paint layer.

1. Unlike moisture-resistant paints, washable paints form a dense film on the base, which not only is not afraid of moisture, but also actively resists swelling, abrasion and the effects of chemicals.
2. In other words, any washable composition is moisture-resistant, but not every moisture-resistant paint can be washed, especially not regularly.

If we talk about choosing a pigment specifically for painting bathroom walls with your own hands, then I would recommend choosing acrylic compositions with increased moisture resistance. Nominally they are not washable, but they withstand various impacts very well. More durable materials will be needed in exceptional cases - for example, when painting a room with an installed open-type shower stall.

Painting technology

Surface preparation

In this section, I will tell you how to paint the walls in the bathroom with your own hands, providing the decorative layer with a sufficient margin of strength and durability. The main difficulty lies in preparing the surfaces, which is why I will pay maximum attention to this.

Many people are interested in whether it is possible to paint the walls over old paint. There is no consensus on this matter among the masters, but from my point of view, such a decision is an unjustified risk.

Even if today it seems that the old finishing layer is holding up well and is not going to peel off, then who can guarantee that it will not react with the primer or paint and will not fall off in just two or three months.

That's why first of all we need to figure out how to remove paint from the walls. I usually do it like this:

1. To begin with I do mechanical cleaning- I take a spatula and with its help I clean off everything that needs to be cleaned off. I act quite intensively, but carefully: it is advisable not to damage the plaster layer, since the defects will then have to be smoothed out with putty.
2. As a rule, you can never remove all the paint with a spatula, and you have to decide how to remove the remains. This is where a hair dryer comes to the rescue: I heat up a layer of material, wait until it begins to soften, and remove it using the same spatula.
3. If not, then to the question of how to remove paint from bathroom walls, there is another answer: chemical removers! I buy a bottle of the product, apply it to the painted area, wait until the components react - and then remove the partially dissolved mass with almost no effort.

1. Finally, if you plan to cover the bathroom with plasterboard or completely re-plaster, then decide how to remove the paint , You don’t have to be delicate: take a grinder with a brush attachment, turn it on and clean off everything that’s on the walls, including putty and part of the plaster.

There will be a lot of dust and debris, so we wear goggles and a respirator.

1. To begin with, a rough leveling of the walls is performed - either plastering or finishing moisture-resistant plasterboard. At this stage I try to get perfectly flat planes with a minimum number of defects.
2. After the plaster has dried, I apply putty with a moisture-resistant compound. You also need to use putty to treat the seams between the plasterboard boards and the places where the sheathing is attached to the frame.

1. I must sand the dried putty using abrasive mesh. First, I rub the surface with a coarse abrasive, and then “finish” the surfaces with fine-grain finishing sandpaper. The fewer irregularities there are on the plane, the better the painted wall will look.

When grinding, it forms a large number of gypsum dust. When mixed with paint, it deteriorates its properties, so I prefer to vacuum the walls to get the best result.

1. Preparation for painting ends with a primer. For work I use a moisture-resistant acrylic composition, which I apply in at least two layers. So that the acrylic has time to polymerize, I pause for at least 2-3 hours between approaches (the instructions for the primer composition will tell you the exact time).

Finally, we need to think about paint protection for all other surfaces. To do this, cover the floor with newspapers or plastic film, and we glue the ceiling around the perimeter masking tape. It is also worth covering with polyethylene or thick fabric pipes and plumbing: no matter how carefully we work, drops will still scatter.

If our design project involves the use of two or more colors, then the boundaries between them should also be marked with masking tape. This, by the way, is a completely reasonable solution from a purely practical point of view: the lower part of the walls is painted with a washable pigment of a darker shade, and the upper part is simply painted with moisture-resistant light paint.

Painting the walls

To paint the walls in the bathroom we will need:

• a roller with a telescopic handle (the so-called fishing rod);
• several brushes different shapes for painting in hard-to-reach places;
• paint tray;
• gloves;
• respirator;
• protective glasses;
• headscarf;
• rack or trestles - for high rooms;
• rags and solvent to remove paint drops.

Coloring begins with the preparation of the pigment:

1. We open the container with paint, and, if this has not been done previously, add color to it. Mix the tinting liquid thoroughly, achieving uniform coloring and matching the color with the reference sample.

You can use pre-tinted paints, but I prefer to work with a white base: there is nothing complicated about adding pigment, but the savings are quite noticeable.

1. Simultaneously with tinting, we check the container for the presence of insoluble sediment. The thing is that acrylic, latex and other paints, if stored improperly, can delaminate, losing all their positive qualities. You can get rid of sediment by filtering the paint through a special filter or just a nylon stocking.
2. Immediately before work, mix the pigment again to increase homogeneity. Next, pour a small amount of the composition into the tray and get to work.
3. We take a roller, dip it in paint and roll it several times along the grooved area of ​​the tray to distribute the pigment over the pile.

If we were unable to sand the walls efficiently, and the defects are visible even to the naked eye, then the first layer can be applied with a brush. The consumption will be higher, but a thicker layer will hide some of the unevenness.

1. First, we paint the corners and joints of the walls, and then we begin to gradually process the planes, regularly adding paint to the roller.
2. We leave the first layer to dry, and after it has dried, we repeat the coloring. We thoroughly rub the pigment over the surface, trying not to leave streaks, but also avoid unpainted areas.

1. Usually two layers of paint are enough to achieve the desired result. If a light composition with low hiding power is used, then sometimes three or four layers have to be applied to mask the base.

Drying the room

To be applied decorative material did not begin to fall off the base in the first weeks, you need to provide it with optimal conditions polymerization:

• The first and most important thing is ventilation.. The humidity level in the bathroom is usually higher than in the rest of the apartment, so in such an environment the pigment will take a very long time to dry. You can speed up the process by providing effective removal humid air naturally or forced.

• Next - the absence of drafts. If we cannot fulfill this requirement, then polymerization will proceed unevenly, and stress zones will appear in the paint film, which will sooner or later lead to the formation of cracks.
• Finally, a constant sufficient temperature is also important. The bathroom must be provided temperature regime at a level of +20..+250C with minimal differences - then there will be no peeling or peeling of the paint layer.

Many people ask the question of how to paint a bathtub with their own hands. This simple and accessible event will allow you to quickly update appearance bathroom without purchasing new bath.

Before we tell you how you can update an old bathtub with your own hands, we will study the preparation process in detail. This stage is the most important and the durability of the new coating depends on its quality. Preparation includes a number of works, including degreasing and stripping - without this, the new paint will peel off the surface in just a couple of months.

Stripping old bath with your own hands

How to paint an old bathtub - step by step diagram

Step 1: Degreasing

During water procedures A fairly large amount of fat that has come out through the pores is washed off from the human body. Fat settles on the surface and over time eats into the material - it is unlikely to be removed from there by simply washing the bathtub. Therefore, degreasing requires a lot of time and effort. First of all, you need to clean the bathtub with a good dishwashing detergent. Apply the selected product to old enamel or cast iron and leave for half an hour. During this time, the components in the detergent will dissolve the layer of fat. Be sure to wash off any remaining product hot water and repeat the processing again.

Step 2: Stripping

Stripping has several purposes: it helps to get to the remaining grease embedded in the surface and ensures the roughness of the bathtub, so that the paint will ideally adhere to the bathtub. In addition, it is quite easy to remove traces of rust, which often appears on a cast iron bathtub. To clean, we will need a grinder or a drill with a fine nozzle.

Why is it better to use a drill? This tool is less resourceful and not as powerful as an angle grinder, so a beginner who decides to paint a bathtub with enamel or acrylic with his own hands will have less chance of scratching or deforming the coating. Clean the bathtub until it becomes uniformly matte. Shower off any residue old enamel and rinse the surface again.

Step 3: Final preparation stage

On last stage remove the siphon and sand the overflow and drain holes using fine-grain sandpaper. Rinse the surface again with detergent and rinse off any remaining dirt with plenty of water, placing it under the drain. large capacity. Leave the product for a day so that the surface is completely dry. And finally, go through the bath again with acetone to remove any remaining grease.

In stores today you can purchase special bath enamel in aerosol cans. We advise you not to purchase such material - it is not very durable. This coating will last at least one year. To obtain a high-quality and durable coating, you need to purchase a two-component polyurethane enamel. We have compiled a list of the three most famous manufacturing companies and their products:

• Dulux - special enamel for updating old bathtubs;
• Tikkurila - a set that includes a moisture-resistant primer and paint;
• Jobi is a paint that is not afraid of moisture and damage; the updated bathtub can even be washed with a brush.

Enamel for updating old bathtubs

You need to paint in at least two layers, even better in three. In this case, for each new layer you need to prepare a new portion of paint. Mix the ingredients according to the instructions and get to work. Do not forget that 1.5–3 hours after mixing the paint will be unusable. Take this into account and prepare the required portions in the required volume. Before applying a new coat of enamel, be sure to wait until the previous one has dried. In addition, dried enamel must also be degreased.

• To prevent dust and small contaminants from getting on the fresh paint, before carrying out work, tightly close all doors and windows in the apartment - do not open them for at least the next 24 hours to avoid paint deformation due to changes in temperature and air humidity levels.
• To update your bathtub with paint, use natural bristles. If you can handle a spray gun, you can use it.
• It is better to apply paint from the sides to the bottom to avoid streaks.
• After completing the work, leave the bath to dry for 7–10 days.

Not everyone wants to paint an old bathtub with enamel and they choose the restoration method using self-leveling acrylic. There is nothing complicated here either. First we carry out preparatory work, which we described above, and then simply pour acrylic over the sides of the bathtub - the liquid, flowing down the surface of the bathtub, will fill all the flaws of the old cast iron bath. Anyone can renovate a bathtub using acrylic, but the method has some disadvantages. For example, acrylic adheres very poorly to old enamel. It is attached to the surface due to its roughness and its solid structure.

Pouring acrylic over the sides of the bathtub

As soon as you scratch the new surface, it will begin to deteriorate - gradually the water will begin to wash away the new layer from the bathtub, tearing off the hardened acrylic in whole pieces.

To minimize such risks, it is worth covering the product with two layers of acrylic, and the thicker the layer, the more difficult it will be to damage the material.

Now you know how you can update the old coating in the bathroom - we showed you step by step the process of preparing and painting with enamel. The update process may seem complicated to some, but if we're talking about about a bath that has already outlived its usefulness, then you definitely won’t make it worse.

Cracks in the enamel and yellow spots- not a death sentence for an old home bath. The former gloss and perfectly smooth surface can be restored. And it’s quite possible to do this on our own, without turning to the services of companies offering assistance in the restoration of bathtubs. How to paint the inside of the bathtub? There are several options at home. Let's try to figure out what is better: enamel, acrylic, bath in a bath or spray painting. Although the artisans, it seems, have already made their choice. They recommend that beginners who decide to paint a bathtub for the first time should opt for acrylic. Painting with enamel will require experience.

When to paint a bathtub

After several years of service, any bath needs updating. Yellow spots, smudges and rust may appear on it, which even the most powerful detergents cannot cope with. Moreover, in some places the enamel begins to crack. The owner has to choose: either change the bathtub or install it on its inner surface acrylic liner, the so-called bath in the bath. This technology is widespread in the world. But you can’t call it cheap - its cost is close to buying and installing a new bathtub. In addition, such work can only be entrusted to professionals who have experience and all the necessary equipment.

Bathtubs made of cast iron have a fairly long service life and are not exposed to rust; it would be a shame to throw away such a bathtub just because of the appearance of yellowness

At the same time, you can update the bathtub on your own and with a relatively small financial investment. You can do this using:

• enamel based on epoxy resin (it will last up to two decades);
• enamel based acrylic resin(no less resistant than epoxy).

There are many advantages to painting:

• this option is the cheapest and simplest;
• it allows you to experiment and change the color of the bathroom;
• with it there is no need to dismantle the bathtub, and, therefore, there is no need to carry out cosmetic repairs in the room after finishing work.

Painting also has disadvantages:

• if the work is done poorly, the paint will not last long - it will again begin to turn yellow and crack;
• painting will not completely hide dents and chips;
• The work process will be very lengthy, and during this time the household will not only have to give up water procedures, but also endure the smell of paint.

However, all this can be solved. The main thing is to strictly follow the work plan.

Preparing the surface for painting

Each bath requires a personal approach. Restoration work and preparation for it are no exception.

Preparing an iron bath for painting with enamel

Before painting, the bathtub must be prepared for work. The inner surface of the cast iron bathtub must be completely free of grease and traces. limescale. To combat them, the most common alkaline agent is suitable. For example, the traditional Pemolux. On the contrary, it is recommended to refrain from using substances containing chlorine.

Product with a little added water:

• Apply with a sponge to the surface of the bath and spread evenly;
• remains in this form for 15–20 minutes;
• after this period it is washed off.

• electric drill or grinding machine;
• medium-grain sandpaper;
• a pair of gloves, a respirator and goggles that protect against dust.

A power tool will help remove old paint layers

In this case, the power tool is unlikely to reach internal corners bathroom and drainage points. This is where sandpaper comes into play.

The result of the manipulations performed with an electric drill or grinder The surface should become matte and rough to the touch. Before the beginning painting works There's not much left to do:

• fill the remaining cracks and chips;
• vacuum the surface of the bathtub, clearing it of the smallest grains of dust;
• rinse again, this time with an acidic solution;
• allow to dry (if you need to speed up the process, dry the surface with a hairdryer).

All chrome and nickel plated parts should be removed to prevent exposure to harmful components.

Preparing a bathtub for acrylic painting

Acrylic painting also requires special preparation. Otherwise, within a few days after the work, an emergency may occur - the paint will begin to peel off. To prevent this from happening, you must:

• conduct general cleaning in the room, clearing dust from the walls and ceiling above the bathroom, which will minimize the threat of tiny dust particles getting into the paint;
• clean the bathtub itself from deposits, grease and dirt, and in particularly problematic areas you will have to use a grinding machine;
• remove all areas with enamel beginning to peel off;
• rinse and thoroughly dry the bathtub with a hair dryer, and then wipe with a napkin.

Getting moisture under the paint can ruin the whole job.

Even a minimal amount of water will be destructive and lead to irreversible processes. Drying the bathtub at the preparation stage should be given the closest attention. It is also important to ensure that after applying acrylic nothing falls into the freshly painted bathtub.

Experienced masters share very useful advice: You must remove from the bathroom in advance any small objects that may be accidentally touched.

How to paint a bathtub with enamel

In its properties, enamel is similar to glass-like coatings. When the bathtub is filled with hot water, this paint does not heat up as much. And this quality is an advantage of the enamel, because it eliminates the risk of peeling due to strong heating.

To paint a bathroom (both cast iron and steel) with enamel, you don’t have to be a professional painter. Anyone can cope with this task House master. The main thing is to choose the right paint that is suitable for a room with high humidity. When choosing enamel in a store, it is important to find on the jar an indication of two main points:

• high moisture resistance;
• increased level of adhesion (or cohesion).

Enamel can be not only white. Those who love radical changes can choose something completely new color scheme- paint the bathtub instead of white in soft blue, soft pink or yellow.

It is advisable to warm up the paint before applying it to a cast iron surface - this will increase its effectiveness.

As a rule, manufacturers indicate on the cans whether heating of the paint is necessary or not. This can be done using a water bath by simply placing the jar in a container of hot water for about half an hour. All algorithms for preparing the composition for coloring are described in the instructions. Substances are added to the bucket not all at once, but one by one. In this case, the paint should not be prepared in advance, but right before painting, so that it does not begin to dry out. In just an hour, a bucket of paint may become unusable, and it will no longer be possible to lay it on the surface in an even layer.

When painting a cast iron bathtub, it is necessary to apply several layers of paint. It is advisable to have three of them. Each new layer is applied only after the previous one has set and completely dried. The second and third layers should begin in the place where the very first was laid. This way the paint will lie more evenly.

It is necessary to paint, wetting the brush abundantly, in vertical stripes from the bottom to the edge. Followed by rubbing to the sides.
A flat brush with natural bristles that will not leave streaks is suitable for this work. It is important to prevent bristles that have escaped from the brush from sticking to the bathtub. To do this, you should have tweezers at hand while working, with which you can carefully pick up the fallen bristles. You can’t do this with your hand, or even touch the surface to be painted.

Temperature changes are very harmful for fresh paint and high humidity

When painting with enamel, it is important to monitor the appearance of smudges. They can occur approximately 10 minutes after passing the brush over a specific area of ​​the bath. They need to be monitored and removed before they dry out.

During work, the door to the bathroom will have to be closed, and it is also better to do the same with the windows in the apartment. After all, air circulation while painting the bathtub is extremely undesirable. It can bring with it fine dust, which will ruin the whole job.

After the work, the bathroom must be closed for a day. It is advisable not to go inside for at least 10–12 hours. It will take 2 to 5 days for the enamel to dry completely. You should not use the bathroom until this moment.

It is better to take the first bath after a week or 10 days.

There is no need to rush. It's proven many years of experience, because bathtubs have been restored using new epoxy enamel for more than two decades.

Acrylic painting

Using acrylic, you can create a smooth enamel coating up to 4 mm thick on the walls and 6 mm on the bottom. It will be especially smooth and absolutely glossy when applying paint to the surface using the pouring method. This coating will not be slippery. In addition, it will receive protection from mechanical and chemical influences.

Among the construction advantages of acrylic are:

• the strength of the hardened coating;
• long service life of the material;
• easy care - acrylic can be washed using detergents, they should not damage the surface;
• the possibility of polishing, which may become relevant over time when small scratches appear on the surface of the bathtub.

Liquid acrylic has gained popularity among craftsmen relatively recently; it has been actively used for the restoration of bathtubs over the past ten years.

At the same time, the most difficult thing in the work, according to the masters, is preparing the paint. It is important to keep the ratio exactly acrylic base to another component - a liquid hardener. Their consistency differs greatly, so mixing the two parts can be quite labor-intensive.

To obtain the desired shade, add a tinting paste to the polymer and use only compatible friend compositions with a friend

Meanwhile, you need to mix thoroughly and very efficiently. So that hardened areas do not appear on the painted surface later. By the way, using a mixer when stirring the composition is not suitable. After all, it will not allow the part of the composition that is on the walls of the paint container to be mixed.

You can work with either a brush or a roller. It is best to give them a spiral direction - from the edges of the bath to its drain. Movements should be light, without pressure. The main thing is to prevent bubbles from appearing. They need to be noticed in time and removed immediately with a clean brush.

In addition, when painting, the appearance of drips and sagging is inevitable. Their formation should be monitored 3–5 minutes after a specific area of ​​the bathtub has been painted.

Another option for painting with acrylic is this: the paint is applied to the surface of the bathtub using a special plastic cup and an ordinary spatula. From a glass, the paint is evenly poured onto the walls of the bathtub, and the process is only slightly adjusted with a spatula, which is also useful for treating hard-to-reach areas, for example, the corners of the bathtub.

You can remove drips and sagging using a smearing brush stroke upwards

Painting with acrylic will take on average about 3 hours. You can start using the bathroom carefully within a day, provided that it has dried when the thermometers in the apartment showed no lower than +25°C. If the house is a little cooler, the first use will have to be postponed for another day.

It is important to remember that it is better not to use a washbasin located next to a painted bathtub for some time. After all, just a couple of accidentally arriving drops will immediately destroy all the work.

Using a spray can

This is a less durable option. With such a bathtub repair, it is guaranteed to last only a year, and then problems in the form of yellow stains and chips may begin again.

The container must first be shaken: its contents will become uniform in consistency thanks to the metal ball inside

For professionals, this painting method has a number of advantages:

• the employee does not need additional tools and equipment;
• spray paint dries faster;
• using a spray can you can achieve perfect flat surface- stripes and relief will be excluded.

In addition, the choice of paints in cylinders is very wide, and they are suitable for bathtubs of any material. As for the technology, everything is simple: painting the bathtub must be carried out strictly according to the instructions included with the can.

All work is carried out wearing a respirator. At the very beginning, the masters paint the most difficult places- hard-to-reach surfaces of the sides. Next you can start working on the sides and bottom of the bathtub.

To get a quality result, it is important to remember some rules for spray painting:

• during operation it should be at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the surface to be painted;
• painting should proceed smoothly and under no circumstances stop;
• skipping sections and leaving something for later is strictly prohibited, since such squares and rectangles will stand out against the general background;
• It is important to avoid smudges, because to eliminate them you will have to interrupt painting.

It is advisable to apply up to 3 layers of paint. This is done as the layers dry. Non-professional craftsmen are not advised to rush the process - the better the lower layers set, the longer the new coating will last. By the way, the layers should not be too thick. After all, the thickness of the paint will not affect the quality and degree of adhesion.

For those who are going to paint the bathtub using a spray can, it is better to immediately buy one in reserve from the store. Often, even with the most accurate calculations, just one thing is missing. And while painting the bathtub, there will, alas, be no opportunity to interrupt the process and go to the store again.

After painting the bathtub using a spray can, as with other painting methods, it is recommended to close it for a day. The paint should harden as much as possible.

Coating the bathtub with a new layer of paint will make its surface more resistant to microorganisms

To extend the life of the bathtub, the main thing is to take care of it and not forget about the simplest rules:

• never soak laundry in it with washing powder;
• do not wash it with aggressive detergents;
• Do not leave a bathtub filled with water for a long time.

Bathtub replacement - expensive pleasure, which not every family can afford. Moreover, such a step will entail the beginning of a major renovation in the entire bathroom, which will result in much greater expenses and create a lot of additional problems. Therefore, painting - best option in all respects: it will save your budget, the bathtub will delight you with an excellent view and will last for many more years.

Over time, the enamel of the bathtub wears out and becomes dull. Small chips, scratches and cracks form on it. The bowl is covered with reddish-brown rust stains. And then the question arises: how to paint the inside of the bathtub?

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Recovery methods

Currently, the most common methods for updating cast iron bathtubs are:

• their enameling by hand or by spraying;
• restoration of the coating using the “pouring bath” method using liquid acrylic.

Note! The instructions strongly advise not to use conventional oil, alkyd, nitro paints, or car enamels to renew bathtubs. They have relatively low resistance to moisture and insufficient adhesion. Because of this, the coating will soon begin to bubble, crack and peel.

Enamelling

The best option for enameling bathtubs is special two- and three-component paints based on epoxy resins.

The main manufacturers of coatings for cast iron plumbing:

• Dulux company, its paint “Realife Bathroom & Kitchen” is most suitable for bathtubs;
• German company “Jobi” with “Wasch Fest” enamel;
• Finnish manufacturer Tikkurila offers the product Reflex/50 for baths.

Before painting your bathtub, you need to consider the following points.

1. Before using the two-component composition, the old enamel is cleaned and then degreased.
2. Then inner surface baths are treated with a special primer. When it dries, you can begin the main work.

1. You can apply the paint using a soft brush or a roller with soft bristles.
2. When thinking about how you can paint the inside of the bathtub, keep in mind that the most reliable and convenient way to spray the enamel is with a spray gun. It makes it possible to distribute paintwork materials evenly over the surface.

Note! The coating components should be mixed immediately before applying the paint. This is exactly what needs to be done because the viability of the enamel is no more than 40 minutes.

Filling bath method

When choosing what to paint an old bathtub with, pay attention to liquid acrylic. This polymer has a beautiful gloss and good resistance to mechanical and chemical stress.

The most popular is liquid acrylic, produced under the Stakril brand. It is a high-density two-component (hardener and base) enamel.

The Yaroslavl “Eco-Bathtub” coating and the Moscow analogue “Alpha-Bathtub” are also in demand.

Benefits of coverage

Self-leveling acrylic bath covers have the following advantages.

1. Their smoothness is higher than that of factory enameling. This increases the resistance of the finish to various influences.
2. The low thermal conductivity of the polymer helps the plumbing fixture maintain its temperature 10 times longer hot water. This makes bathing more comfortable.
3. Easy to care for. The acrylic coating can be wiped with a sponge soaked in soapy water. There is no need to use abrasive and aggressive chemical cleaning agents.
4. High strength, because acrylic enamel has an increased degree of wear resistance.
5. With a coating thickness of about 6 centimeters, its complete hardening occurs in no more than four days.

Preparing the bowl

First you need to prepare the surface.

Below is the procedure.

1. If the coverage has only small scratches and yellowed areas, it will be enough to remove the top layer of old enamel with medium sandpaper.
2. When protective layer has deep cracks, scratches, ingrained pockets of corrosion, you will have to tinker. In this case, the coating is removed with an electric drill with an attachment in the form of an abrasive wheel.

Note! this work will cause a large amount of dust to appear in the air. Therefore, wear a respirator or protective mask.

1. Next, wash off any remaining dust and dirt from the bathtub after sanding.
2. Degrease the surface with any solvent, for example white spirit. You can also use baking soda for this. Dilute it to a paste and wipe the bath with the mixture. Then rinse off any remaining residue with warm water.
3. If the bowl has deep chips or cracks, cover them with automotive putty. epoxy resin. It dries almost instantly. You can work with a small rubber spatula.

1. The technology of updating bathtubs using liquid acrylic requires that the surface of the device be warm. Otherwise, the composition will not lie smoothly. For this purpose, fill the bowl with hot water for 5/7 minutes. Then drain it.
2. Next, the bath should be dried very quickly using a highly absorbent, lint-free cloth.
3. As a final step of preparation, remove the bottom and top drains to prevent acrylic from getting into the sewer line. Cover the overflow hole with tape, and place a container under the bottom drain so that the remaining paint flows into it. Application acrylic coating

1. Mix the base and enamel hardener according to the attached instructions. Pour part of the prepared composition into a working container from which it will be convenient to distribute the acrylic.
2. Pour a thin strip of enamel over the edge of the tub. If it has a tile baseboard, then use a spatula to guide the acrylic under its edges.

1. Pour the material in a gentle stream onto the edges of the rim, so that a layer of about 6 centimeters is obtained, and then flows down to approximately the center of the bowl.
2. Next, you should begin to move the stream along the side perimeter of the bath until the ring is closed. Please note that stopping for a long time is extremely undesirable.

Note! Under no circumstances should you try to smooth out the resulting sagging and drips. As the acrylic coating cures, they will disappear on their own.

1. Once you have completed the circle, fill the center of the bowl with enamel. Moving the jet in a spiral, distribute the coating over the entire surface.
2. Excess material will gradually flow into the drain hole on its own.

This method is very economical and its price is low. Including because it makes it possible to effectively restore the bathtub, instead of buying a new one.

A similar method can be used for other metal equipment in the bathroom. For example, before painting a heated towel rail in the bathroom, choose a special paint with a high content (about 90%) of zinc in the composition. This coating will effectively protect the device from corrosion.

When finished, wait until the coating is completely dry. The hardening period of the enamel ranges from 1 to 4 days. It depends on the specific type of liquid acrylic.

On this moment there are two such subspecies.

1. Fast drying coating. By using this material, you will be able to use the bathroom within 24 hours. This acrylic is suitable if you are in a hurry and need to finish the work in a short time.