Once upon a time, classic brick stoves for a home were a mandatory attribute and the only method of heating. Professional stove makers were in demand and respected. Today there are many new means for heating premises that operate from different sources energy, from solid fuel to electricity. However, good stove makers remain in demand and the online request for “brick stoves for home drawings with instructions” remains frequent.

Some build stoves for a bathhouse, for a summer residence, or simply because their home is remote, which is why there is no alternative. Different types stoves can perform a heating function; on some models you can cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and quickly erected. Some are planned before the house is built, while others need to fit into an existing space. Stoves are ordered or made by hand in order to save money, others are built to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment must be constructed from high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with existing SNiP. You can find any drawings with instructions on the Internet, but you need to understand that building a stove for your home with your own hands will not be so easy.

Why does the brick kiln remain competitive, more and more being built, with so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating that are much more convenient to use, and according to manufacturers, they have greater efficiency (coefficient of performance). But why are brick ones still in demand in some areas or buildings? One of the reasons is that a brick stove “breathes.”

This means that when the furnace warms up, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, moisture is absorbed back. Thanks to this, it maintains the normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that “a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house.”

Ability brick oven“breathing” not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even if you are not household level. When calculating a house's thermal engineering, temperature indicators in heating season are set between 18-20 Celsius. Air humidity should be optimal for health. The home stove provides optimal air humidity, with a heating temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort; clothes and bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive air humidity may be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they greatly dry out the air). It turns out that a brick kiln with an efficiency rate of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of savings, than modern systems with rates of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the loss of heat in the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting oven surface size

Before you begin construction, you must select the type and model future design. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a location for its placement, you should know that side surfaces furnaces have the greatest heat transfer. This is a determining factor when choosing a location.

Different models have different shapes:

• Rectangular;
• In the form of the letter T;
• With a bed or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can perform functions heating device for living rooms, or to be a space divider.

For a small home area, you should not choose too massive structures; even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To heat the entire furnace you need a lot of fuel, and the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove relative to the living rooms is also important, and the insulation of the entire house is also a criterion.

Table of stove sizes, taking into account the area of ​​the room

The structure of a stove for the home, stoves for the home of the classical design

The oven consists of 3 main parts. The body of the stove, the foundation and the chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

1. Foundations - foundation;
2. Waterproofing material;
3. Shantsy. They are holes, they are made to create heating in the lower part of the room. They serve as “legs” in the structure;
4. Blower;
5. The opening of the air channel helps to warm up the room over the entire height;
6. Blower door;
7. Grate grate;
8. Kindling door;
9. Furnace part;
10. Vault of the combustion part;
11. “Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with the nozzle is called the hailo);
12. Door for cleaning;
13. Strangler Pass;
14. Dushnik;
15. Valves that regulate the direction of travel;
16. Convector channel;
17. A valve that closes the chimney after heating the stove. Close it after heating so that the oven does not cool down.
18. Exhaust door;
19. Chimney hole;
20. Cover (top of the furnace);
21. Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
22. Overlap;
23. Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the stove is made separately from the general foundation of the house. Use ordinary reinforced concrete strip foundation. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. The asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (preferably cast iron, but this is very expensive; ordinary roofing metal will do), and the top is covered with felt. The felt bedding is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after this do they begin laying. By itself, the litter is needed so that the foundation does not take over all thermal energy ovens. In simple words, “so that the heat does not go into the ground.”

Masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique shading from simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The firebox is made of red ceramic bricks, combined with fireproof (fireclay) material. A clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of fireclay) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is laid in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the stoves. Takeaway metal sheet not less than 250 mm. The edges are tucked in, pushing them towards the floor.

Unlike cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries out rather than setting. Therefore, with constant exposure to moisture (especially in winter period), the solution gets wet. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made rounded. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (lower transition). It is much easier to remove soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such bricks are cheaper than fireclay bricks, and the mortar is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly in the event of a soot fire, and thus transfers less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions and is a side for drainage of precipitation. The draft in the furnace will depend on the height of the pipe.

Place for a stove in the house

It will depend on where the stove is installed effective work. The best location would be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the exit, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from the outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

• The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is necessary for proper operation and the possibility of complete cleaning.
• The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, since its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
• The location should be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This needs to be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the stove.
• There must be a fire-resistant floor in front of the firebox door. (sheet metal or ceramic tile), to prevent accidental fires.

Equipment and building materials for building a stove with your own hands

Brick

There are sources on the Internet that claim that bricks for stoves and fireproof bricks are one and the same. In fact, they only have in common linear dimensions. The dimensions of a regular single building brick are 250 by 125 by 65 mm, and a standard stove brick has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes 230 by 114 by 65 mm is found. In the construction of the furnace, special high-quality brick of grade 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the furnace channels in the combustion chamber. It can withstand high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish stoves or sauna stoves. It can withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens this temperature does not exist. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to retain heat for a long time. It makes no sense to build the entire body of the furnace out of it, since it is very expensive and has weak strength.

To distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality one, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since fireclay can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way checks - check to the sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be clear and clear, not dull. The last way to determine the quality of a material is radical. They break the brick in half and look at the break. High-quality fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, it is sometimes used in furnace construction. clinker brick. It is just like red ceramic, but it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

As sand in cement-sand mortar Medium grade quarry sand is used. It is sifted through a sieve to remove large fractions and various organic inclusions. Availability additional inclusions in this case it is very important. All organic impurities will burn from heat, causing the masonry to crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

To lay the stove you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

• Cement;
• Lime;
• Clays;
• Chamotte.

Characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap in price. Clay can be easily found on almost any plot of land after cleaning it first. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. This mixture dries when exposed to high temperatures, but becomes wet when exposed to moisture. The furnace masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But you can’t lay a foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in the combustion chambers. This solution can withstand the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is quite strong, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in the foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for laying a chimney. He has best performance strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not allow smoke and digging into the room and will provide good draft for the firebox.

Examples of brick stove projects

Stove for a summer residence

Medium sizes country house are about 15-20 sq. m. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove with dimensions of 2 meters by 3 and a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the combustion part is made of refractory brick, and the entire body is built of red ceramic.

The figure shows a sectional view of the furnace design

This simple option can be easily made by every beginner out of brick with his own hands, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with order, order instructions

Despite its small dimensions and light weight, it still requires construction separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm, while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your own experience.

For such a stove, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Quantity of material:

You will need about 210 pieces of regular bricks, about 75 pieces of fireclay bricks. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cubic meters m. One grate, door for combustion chamber, ash chamber and cleaning room. Two smoke valves. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing, about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, since there will be a certain percentage of broken bricks.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. You can cook food on such a stove and its design includes a bench. The masonry and construction schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is its design feature, due to which it only heats the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.

What it consists of:

• A) heated part;
• B) niche;
• B) pole;
• D) forge;
• D) shower part;
• E) shield;
• G) valve;
• H) chimney pipe;
• I) Repainting the furnace.

Large, small and medium furnaces are built according to their size. Let's consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Red bricks, about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. Made of steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on a lime mortar with the addition of cement. The formation of the furnace part occurs;

Row No. 2 to No. 4 a well is laid out. All seams are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a castle for the vault is being erected;

Row No. 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the oven;

Row No. 12 is laid out “under”. It is made from special bricks;

Row No. 13 is the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Rows No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 installs the arches of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the furnace walls;

Row No. 19 vault walls;

Row No. 20, using half bricks, narrow the hole above the pole;

Row No. 21 aligns the walls;

Row No. 22 is the stage of leveling and reducing the front pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney laying. In a Russian stove, the chimney is made of 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying stoves, it’s worth trying to lay out at least one without mortar to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

Video

In this video you can see the order of the heating stove:

In the recent past, a stationary solid fuel stove served as the main source of indoor heating. In this regard, the profession of a stove maker was considered popular and worthy of respect. Nowadays, a variety of means can be used to heat houses and apartments, but, nevertheless, the popularity of such brick structures remains unchanged.

DIY stove laying lessons

According to experts, laying a stove with your own hands is a lengthy process, but quite simple and understandable. Any man can cope with this task, but, of course, for this it is necessary to prepare special drawings and become familiar with the masonry technology itself.

An excellent assistant for a novice mason are various videos and other supporting lessons. Like material with step-by-step instructions quickly and clearly explains all the features of masonry and installation, as a result, even an inexperienced installer will be able to do the job efficiently and, most importantly, inexpensively.

Main types of stoves

Before you start laying such a structure, it is worth understanding the main types of stoves. Nowadays the following types are used:

• heating. Serve for heating purposes only. Are different simplified design and ease of masonry, which, compared to all other options, is considered the simplest and fastest process.
• heating and cooking. They are the most popular and popular solution. They can be used both for heating rooms and for cooking over natural fire.

Furnace laying, video

IN modern world Improved types of these structures are also used and can be supplied with built-in stove or a full-fledged oven.

A separate category includes fireplace stoves, which are an excellent solution for country houses and mansions. In addition to its main purpose of heating the room, fireplaces perfectly complement the interior and give warmth and comfort in the home.

The scheme for laying stoves with your own hands may differ not only in the purpose of the future structure, but also in the shape and design of the future stove. In private homes rectangular or square ovens are used, but many interior designers create complex, advanced models in round or oval shapes. However, before choosing the shape of the future stove, you should carefully consider all the features of the interior and make sure that the necessary space is available for this structure.

Despite the fact that laying a stove can be done with your own efforts due to the huge variety of step-by-step instructions and videos of laying stoves with your own hands, you still shouldn’t forget about fire safety rules and regulations.

Before installing the stove, you should carefully consider the choice of its location. For example, if the stove is installed in the central part of the room, it will be able to warm up perfectly from all sides, and accordingly the heat given off will be greater.

If the stove is installed near the wall, the floor will constantly “walk” cold air. Therefore, experts recommend paying attention to the central placement of the stove.

Determine in advance fire door installation location. It is worth remembering that the more conveniently the fire door is placed, the more convenient and quickly it will be possible to load solid fuel into it and not spread garbage throughout the room.

A stove made of brick can often have an impressive weight. To prevent deformation of the structure and the floor of the house, it is worth preparing in advance a reliable concrete base - the foundation.

Design Features

Often used bricks have a fairly simple and, at first glance, inexpensive design. But even with this simplicity, it is not difficult to achieve excellent performance and durability.

The main elements of brick stoves are a chimney and a firebox. In the case of hobs, additional ovens, stoves, or an appropriate container for heating water can be used.

The main part of the structure is the firebox. It is intended for loading firewood or other solid fuel that will be used for heating. The sizes of the firebox vary. Before deciding on the dimensions, it is worth considering some factors, including:

• type of fuel used. If we are talking about firewood, then it is best to use fireboxes with a height of 50-100 cm;
• desired performance indicators;
• required volume.

When laying the firebox of a stove, you should use only reliable, fire-resistant material.

The chimney is another extremely important element of such structures., which serves to remove processed fuel waste and toxic substances generated during operation of the furnace.

When designing a future chimney, it is worth making every effort to make this element smooth, with a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideal the chimney has an even vertical shape. In the presence of bends and turns, the traction efficiency deteriorates, and accordingly the efficiency of heating the room decreases.

Another integral element of any design is the ash pan chamber. This compartment is intended for collecting ash. The ash pan chamber also supplies air to the fuel inside the unit. The ash pan chamber is located under the grate and has its own door. The classic ash pit is three bricks high.

The main important stages of do-it-yourself masonry

From the moment the foundation is poured, at least 3-4 weeks should pass. After this time, the base will harden and achieve the desired strength., due to which it will be able to withstand the weight of the future structure.

Laying a stove is a fairly simple, but at the same time responsible and demanding process that must be treated with special attention and caution. Each wrong step can lead to further malfunctions of the entire structure.

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For a long time, stoves for heating a home have been traditional heating structures and not only boilers, but also various other heaters cannot be compared with them in many respects. They provide “living” heat; in addition, they are distinguished by practicality and unpretentiousness in the use of solid fuel. In addition, a self-built stove will last for many years.

Stoves for heating a private home are considered perfect choice for suburban real estate. A high-quality heating structure can provide residents with a comfortable stay in each of the premises of the building. Read also: "".

DIY stove: how to do it right

At a time when stoves were the main method of heating in houses, the construction and repair of them was carried out by craftsmen - stove makers. Now, if they have certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to build a stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience in carrying out construction work, the arrangement of such heating structure It is advisable to entrust it to professionals. We should not forget that the stove is a high-risk object.

Before you start self-construction heating units made of brick, it is necessary to understand their main types and operating features:

• heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their design is simple (more details: " ");
• Heating and cooking stoves - today they are considered the most popular and in demand. In addition to heating rooms, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern coolants (read: " ");
• for cooking, a special device is built into the heating structure kitchen stove, and, if desired, even an oven;
• stoves-fireplaces - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable conditions accommodation and provide efficient heating rooms (read: " "). It takes a little time to light them. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance that can decorate any room, both in a small country house and in a luxurious country villa (read also: " ").

Do-it-yourself home stoves are distinguished by shape. For country houses, rectangular, square or round designs are most often chosen, and such a variety of models allows you to settle on the optimal option, based on the purpose and interior of a particular room.

In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of fuel used, the stove must meet certain requirements fire safety. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. Read also: "".

Location of heating stoves

At independent arrangement stove heating, it is necessary to provide the most optimal location for installing the heating unit. If, for example, you place the structure in the middle of the room, then its heat transfer will be the highest possible, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly releasing heat to the air.

In the case when the stove is placed near the wall, convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will begin to actively move around the house. As a result, with this arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel the cold “stretching” up their legs.

Before laying begins furnace device It is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you don’t have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, spreading dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems if you install the stove in the kitchen or in a space that is rarely visited.

Types of base for heating structures

The drawings of heating stoves provide for the arrangement concrete floor or having your own foundation. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed to accommodate the installation of the structure body and the walls of the chimney pipe, as shown.

Main components:

1. Firebox. When you create a stove in your home with your own hands, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It should accommodate the maximum volume of firewood or other fuel to ensure the greatest performance of the structure. The size of the firebox can be different, since this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (for example, for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, and productivity. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
2. Ash pan. This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to the fuel. The height of the ash pit is equal to three bricks.
3. Chimney. One of the main elements that are found in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil through which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When creating a stove for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend including a large number of turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, resulting in a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

Preparation of the solution

The stove can serve trouble-free for a long time if the mortar for masonry is properly prepared. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be at the same time viscous, strong and durable. Preparing a clay-sand solution is simple: it requires clay, which is filled with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred to the consistency of “clay milk” and only then added required amount sand (read also: " ").

A do-it-yourself stove will be a durable and reliable structure that will last for decades if the solution is made correctly. In the event that the building materials are of poor quality, and the bricklaying was carried out without following technology, the heating unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.

Features of the furnace laying process

Before making a stove with your own hands, you should make a foundation for it in advance. Typically, bricklaying begins a month after the foundation is created. It is necessary to withstand a certain time for the stove to be efficient and of high quality, and for the heating structure to last a long time, without overhaul and rework while maintaining functionality and high performance.

The work of laying a brick kiln is carried out in several stages:

1. First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first cap with a cover. Typically, a clay-sand mixture with high viscosity and strength is used for masonry.
2. The doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
3. A grate is installed above the ash pan. Then they begin to install the firebox, which is lined from the inside with fireclay bricks, placing it on the edge. When making the solution, sand and fireclay clay. The fire door is secured with wire and a steel plate having a thickness of 2.5 millimeters. Read also: "".
4. On the 12th row of brickwork, you should block the combustion chamber and then, using a level, install a cast-iron stove with burners. On the left side of the structure, the first cap and channel intended for summer movement are laid.
5. After the installation of the slabs is completed, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid out. On the left side, the construction of the lower cap continues.
6. In the cooking chamber, in the inner row, a summer valve is installed, which is necessary for lighting the stoves.
7. In the 20th row, the first of the hoods and the cooking chamber are blocked. It is necessary to leave holes in the solid brickwork for the vent of the cooking compartment, the summer passage and the lifting channel. To do this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
8. The portal at the cooking chamber should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. Good decision The doors will be equipped with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. If they are available, it becomes possible to control the combustion process and at the same time observe how the flames look. Read also: "".
9. After covering the cooking chamber and the lower hood using two brick rows, they begin to lay out the upper hood. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places for use to help remove soot.
10. The walls of the hood are erected almost to top point wall opening. At the top the oven is covered with two brick rows. For additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging lintel must be filled mineral wool.
11. If you are making a stove yourself, place a decorative band along its upper perimeter and begin installing a pipe that removes flue gases. The ideal solution A brick chimney is considered, since metal and asbestos pipes often burn out over time. Read also: "".

An original DIY stove is shown in the video:

Stove heating is the main heating system for homes in many regions of our country. Thick-walled stoves are often installed, which have increased heat transfer in northern regions; in winter they are heated once a day. They are able to provide heat to several rooms. They are also used for cooking.

It is not profitable to install several heating boilers in a house, because fuel consumption and the intensity of house pollution will increase. For the southern regions, the best option would be a small stove; if necessary, it is heated a couple of times a day. You can order this structure, but you can also build it yourself.

Choosing a design

Before choosing a boiler design (there are many of them), you must first determine its location in the house. The most the best option placement is the case when the firebox faces the corridor, and the surfaces are oriented towards the rooms. The oven mirror should not be covered by furniture, partitions, etc. Its heat transfer with closed walls decreases by about 1/3.

Heat transfer is approximately proportional to the surface area of ​​the entire furnace structure. When choosing a location, the user must find the type of stove suitable for the home and install it so that its largest side faces the largest room.

For example, if you need to heat two large adjacent rooms, then it is better to build a stove with a narrow back side facing the corridor and wide side mirrors.

When building with your own hands, the foundation for the structure must have the same area as the masonry. When arranging it on weak soils special reinforced concrete belts with a thickness of 100-150 mm are installed under the stove, or reinforced seams 30-50 mm thick.

The choice of foundation is made during laying: you need to draw up a plan, which determines what the base of the furnace will be. After arranging the foundation for the house, you can begin to produce a base for placing the heating stove.

In this case, you must adhere to these simple rules. It is built separately from the main foundation of the house for the stove. Broken crushed stone and brick are laid in layers 15-20 cm thick in the pit. Each layer is compacted and watered with cement mortar. Also posted last layer. After that, two layers of bricks are laid, as when making walls with cement mortar.

Waterproofing is made of glassine, roofing felt or roofing felt, as well as several layers of brick installed on a clay mortar. The top of this stove base should exceed the floor level by 1-2 cm. The boiler is placed on such a base.

Choosing a stove design

Almost every owner can build any of the stoves. But at the same time it is necessary to follow the main recommendations for arrangement. We invite you to familiarize yourself with them by studying the information below.

Choosing a brick

When building with your own hands, one of the primary tasks is choosing a brick. The brick should be red and well fired. “Well fired” means that it is processed at a certain temperature. This can be determined by the following signs.

Burnt brick is covered with a dark coating and a glassy film. An unburned brick is pale pink and produces a dull sound when tapped and dropped. When falling on hard surface, it shatters into small pieces. Called normally fired brick, when dropped it also splits, but into large pieces. It makes a metallic sound when tapped. This brick should crack easily when processed.

For stove fireboxes, red brick is “a little weak.” The first smoke channel and the firebox are components of the heating furnace, where the temperature is highest, so they require the laying of refractory refractory bricks. In this case, the brick is chosen depending on the fuel that will mainly be used to heat the home. If peat will burn in it, you need Borovichi peat, firewood - white Gzhel, coal- fireclay brick.

Preparing the solution

The next step is the process of preparing the mortar for the brick heating stove. High quality mortar guarantees the strength of the masonry. It is made from clay and sifted sand. Clay is placed in the trough and filled with water. After 3 days, it is necessary to strain the solution.

When the solution is ready, you need to prepare the tool in advance. To carry out construction work we will need:

• Master OK;
• hammer;
• pick;
• level;
• corner;
• sponge brush for grouting surfaces.

The work can be simplified by installing around the perimeter of the stove vertical racks. Having arranged such a simple structure, you will not need to check the masonry horizontally and vertically.

You need to know that the laying of a heating stove is carried out only in warm weather; the best option would be if the temperature is not below 15°C.

When laying, regardless of the chosen design of row masonry, try to ensure that the thickness of the seam is about 3-4 mm, maybe less, but not more. For foundations and pipes, thicker seams are suitable - up to 1 cm. It is important that there are no cavities between the seams.

There is no need to coat the firebox and fuel channels with clay. Corners and turns in the channels must be rounded; all channels in the oven must be rounded and smooth. This is necessary in order to achieve minimal friction against the walls of the channels, to avoid impacts during movement against various obstacles as a result of sudden expansions and contractions of the channel openings. Therefore, it is impossible to lay chipped or hewn parts of brick inside the channels.

Lay the grates with a gap of about 0.7–1 cm from the masonry wall. They must have a slope towards the stove door so that the remains of unburned fuel do not accumulate at the rear wall of the structure. Drying usually takes about 14 days, if all the views, latches and vents are completely closed. In order to speed up drying, the stove can be heated with small volumes of absolutely dry firewood.

The cross-sectional size of the smoke channel depends on the amount of gases that will flow through it. If its heat transfer for heating does not exceed 3000 Kcal per hour, its cross-section should be 14*14 cm or 0.5*0.5 bricks. If its level is higher than 3000 Kcal, then it should have dimensions of 14 * 27 cm or 0.5 * 1 brick.

The chimney heads are laid on cement mortar. The surface of the part of the outer pipe located in attic spaces The house needs to be plastered and then whitewashed. This is done to ensure fire safety. The height of the pipe is measured from the grate. IN one-story buildings it should not be less than 5 meters. In the places where it passes, a fluff is arranged - a gradual overlap of bricks is made.

If the thickness of the walls of the structure is not less than 1.5 bricks, then it can be equipped with a mounted chimney. In this case, the smoke riser must be installed directly on the stove. Unlike a root chimney, a house's chimney does not require a foundation. The root pipe is installed in a house that has several stoves. At the same time, connecting structures that are located at different levels is unacceptable, since the lower one will take all the thrust from the upper one if they work simultaneously.

Regardless of the chosen pipe design, an otter is installed above the roof of the house, which should hang over the roof. It prevents water from entering the attic floors. The solution underneath is spread in a thick layer to hold it firmly on the pipe. It is often made in the shape of a square, the size of which should exceed the diameter of the pipe by 20-30 cm. The otter is often constructed by pouring a reinforced concrete structure.

After the otter, the neck of the pipe is settled, followed by an expanding head. All these elements of the boiler - the otter, the head, the neck - are plastered. To do this, you must first moisten the pipe with water. After which a liquid layer of solution is applied, and a thick solution is also laid in several layers. All layers are carefully crushed and the cracks that appear are grouted, after which they are whitewashed with lime.

• 1 part clay;
• 1 part cement;
• 1 part lime dough;
• 2 parts sand or 1 part clay;
• 2 parts sand.

If you are planning to build a country house, maximally equipped for comfortable living in it, then you usually cannot do without a small stove, especially if you plan to use it most of the year. The lack of experience in stove work should not stop owners who want to install the stove themselves. You just need to choose the right one, not really difficult option, the design of which is simple and understandable.

In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Let's consider easy-to-use options that are suitable for both a small house and a novice stove maker. – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.

To make it easier to decide suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice. Well, then consider several options, settling on the optimal one for the specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.

General requirements for brick kilns

The conditions that the chosen design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating of the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:

• The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
• In addition, you must select correct form furnace structure. The side walls of the furnace, when heated, provide more heat, while the indicator for the front and rear walls is 3–4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.

For heating efficiency, a T-shaped stove is often installed. It can be intended only for heating or perform two functions if you choose a model that includes a hob. Such a stove can heat up to four rooms that do not have large area.

• The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the structure inside the house; it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking device, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
• When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of ​​the rooms, but also to their location and number external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of stove based on its surface area, depending on the characteristics of the room:

Room area, m²	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two external corners	Hallway
	Furnace surface opening into the room, m²
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

• There is no need to play it safe and choose for small house a massive oven, since it will take a lot of time and enough time to warm it up a large number of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown down the drain.” In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half the room, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal design of the stove, and not just on its massiveness.
• Any stove, even the most heat-intensive one, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat it produces will escape through the walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.

If you plan to save on fuel while receiving high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type stove, which, thanks to its numerous channels, will retain the heat transferred to the living quarters for a long time.

How to choose the right place for the stove?

The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up the project, so you can install the heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, laying out a foundation for a stove before building a house is much simpler both in terms of calculations and the amount of work involved. It must be said right away that the base for the stove must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may begin to deform.

• If there are several rooms planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of the buildings should not touch each other, the internal walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the diagram above.
• In some cases, home owners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, since thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain against cold currents.
• Placement of the furnace hatch close to front door will get rid of excess garbage in living rooms, since you don’t have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
• The walls of the heating structure should not be closely adjacent to the walls of the house, that is, free access must be provided to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.

• If the stove is installed in an already built house, then when planning its location, it is necessary to ensure that the chimney pipe falls between the beams attic floor, which must be at a distance of at least 150 mm from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often they fix around the pipe metal box, which is filled with fine expanded clay, mineral wool, vermiculite or simply sand.
• The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.

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Models of simple-designed small brick ovens

Small brick kilns do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the emergence of alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are unavailable in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if there is no gas supplied to the house, and the electricity is often cut off, or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing the demand for small-sized stove models, engineers have developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed further.

Oven "Krokha"

The name of the model “Krokha” itself speaks about the size of this oven, and it is suitable for residential building with any area. Moreover, if the structure is installed correctly, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house this compact stove will ideal option, as it can create comfort in it in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.

This stove is called a “simple stove” because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach it can easily be built even by a novice master. The stove has very small dimensions, only 640x770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for a small room where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.

The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so “Krokha” will fit perfectly not only into a cottage room, but will also decorate the interior of a private home with its cozy appearance. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of ​​18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:

Oven parameters	Numeric parameter values
Width and length at base	3×2.5 bricks or 640×770 mm
Height of structure to pipe	2030 mm
Oven weight	1260-1280 kg
Firebox depth	746 mm
Efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat transfer with a disposable firebox	1760 W
With a three-time fire	2940 W
Hob	Single burner

The designer thought well about the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. During the combustion process of this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the generated heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a “summer” operation, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. “Krokha” has three design options that differ in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often the improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient because the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen area.

In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only the heat of wood, but also fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.

Up to the level of the stove, the stove has smooth walls, and above the fire door, under hob, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30÷35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: the upper, air-gas, and the lower, fuel. At the top of the furnace there are channels for circulating heated air. They help retain heat in the oven for as long as possible, preventing it from immediately escaping into the chimney.

According to the developer's idea, this stove should be equipped with a combustion door with fire-resistant glass, through which the flames are clearly visible. Therefore, if desired, “Krokha” can be used as small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.

Since the oven is small around the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.

	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Fireclay brick SHA-8		21
Red brick (without chimney pipe)		352
Curly (rounded) red brick		124
	350×250	1
Glass combustion door in a cast iron frame (DP-308-1S)	210×250	1
Cast iron ash door	140×140	1
	410×340	1
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox	500×700	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
Steel corner	40×40×5×520	4

Compact stove model - “Baby”

The main advantage of the model is its small size, 505×760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the structure to be installed on a strong, heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, so when it heats up, it quickly begins to release heat into the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.

When laying this stove model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first bottom row of the rear wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, laid without mortar. This must be done so that after completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the stove can be cleaned of fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help dry it faster. finished design. Then, the brick can be installed in place using the mortar.

If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Typically, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered on top with a metal sheet or roofing felt and an additional continuous layer of brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and secured in front of the stove.

First heating finished oven need to be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valves are opened for ventilation and final drying, which must be carried out for at least 7-9 days.

After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the stove. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are small gaps that are invisible to the eye between the mortar and the brick. Smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash that will stretch upward from the defective seam. When such marks appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of the frozen solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and carefully.

You might be interested in information on how to do it with step-by-step instructions

If you plan to produce decorative finishing the outer walls of the “Malyshka”, then you can start this only after two to three months of operating the stove.

The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:

• Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
• Embedded in it steel pipe and connecting it to the main chimney;
• An embedded pipe can be taken out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.

This diagram will help you understand the design of this brick stove model, since it clearly shows the number of rows and the configuration of the smoke exhaust channels.

The main characteristics of the Malyshka stove are as follows:

Oven parameters	Numeric parameter values
Width and length at base	505×760 mm
Height of structure to pipe	725 mm
Oven weight	360÷370 kg
Firebox depth	737 mm
Chimney duct cross-section size	100×100 mm
Efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat dissipation	1210 W
Hob	single burner

To build the “Malyshki” stove you will need following materials and finished elements (if you do not take into account the chimney pipe):

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Fireclay brick SHA-8 for firebox		37
Red brick		62
Cast iron ash door	140×140	1
Cast iron fire door	210×250	1
Single burner cast iron stove	410×340	1
Cast iron grate	350×200	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
	550×800	1

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

It should be noted that this model can be easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water to its design. In this configuration, “Malyshka” can be used as a sauna stove.

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Heating stove with a small footprint

This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in a country house if, in addition to it, an electric or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for a hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.

It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjoining rooms, building a stove into the wall between them.

The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they will become a kind of “battery” the size of half a wall, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, moreover, to the front and back wall Of these, 210 W are accounted for, and the side ones account for 895 W each.

The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, it will require more material.

The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:

In this case, the design of the furnace, just like the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper – gas exhaust, and the lower – combustion. The upper part of the furnace, the “hood,” consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air lingers inside the structure longer, warming the entire area of ​​its side walls.

To build this model you will need the materials listed in this table:

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Red brick		260
Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the combustion department		130
Cast iron grate	250×400	1
Cast iron ash door	140×200	1
Cast iron fire door	200×300	1
Cleaning doors	140×200	2
Chimney damper	130×310	2
Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing	1000×600	2
Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox	500×700	1

To make the work easier, craftsmen use special ordering diagrams, which must be followed when laying each row.

Prices for chimney valves

chimney valves

This sequence diagram shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed concrete floor. Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it cannot be installed on a wooden floor.

• Ruberoid is laid under the masonry in two layers, and to simplify the alignment of the first row, on waterproofing material can be drawn with chalk, using a long ruler, the border of the base.
• When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control instruments- plumb line and building level. Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each row.
• As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, and a vertical smoke exhaust channel is formed.
• On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
• On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and secured with wire.

Prices for roofing material

roofing felt

• The following diagram represents the order, starting with the 13th row and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, so it is very important to carry out the masonry in accordance with the diagram. Otherwise, the entire work may be ruined and will have to be redone.
• Having finished laying the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the cleaning chamber door is installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is carried out according to the order scheme.

• On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the cleaning chamber door is installed.
• On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are installed, with the help of which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
• The remaining rows are laid according to the diagram, and from the 35th row the laying of the chimney pipe begins.

Heating and cooking "Swedish" - a detailed description of the furnace laying

General description and required materials

In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. It was chosen for a detailed description because, with its simple design and compact size, it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.

This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good location of all functional elements - they are located on one front side of the structure. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the smooth rear brick wall, which warms up perfectly during the fire, faces the living room.

The dimensions of this design are 1020x885x2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal/hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with an area of ​​up to 30 square meters. m.

The presented version of the “Swede” was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating country house, measuring 4000×7000 mm, built from sand-lime brick or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses of other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.

• Wood and other types of solid fuel can be used as fuel for this stove.
• For this model, only the internal lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay brick will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the stove facade, made of high-quality red brick. External finishing is not provided.
• In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so installing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
• In this design, the laying of a drying chamber is mandatory.

If you decide to use this development, first you should consider the table of necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.

You may be interested in information about which one is best to use when building fireplaces and stoves.

Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking “Swedish”:

Name of materials and components	Size(mm)	Quantity (pcs.)
Red full-bodied kiln brick(excluding pipe height)	250×120×60	551
Fireclay refractory brick Ш-8	250×124×65	31
Blower door	140×250	1
Fire door	210×250	1
Doors for cleaning chambers	140×140	3
Oven	450×250×290	1
Cast iron two-burner cooking stove	410×710	1
grate	200×300	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
Steam exhaust valve	130×130	1
Steel corner	45×45×5×1020	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×700	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×905	5
Steel strip	50×5×650	2
Drying rack	190×340	1
Metal sheet covering drying chambers	800×905×0.5÷1	1
Pre-furnace metal sheet	500×700×1.5÷2	1
Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements.	5mm thick	1

Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"

Illustration	Description of the work procedure
	The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfect flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented.
	The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also with solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks must be laid staggered, with overlapping seams.
	On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber, which will be located under the oven, and the blower begin. Vertical smoke exhaust channels also begin to form. When laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for the vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast iron doors are fixed into the windows. After this, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on a spoon. Moreover, the corner of the brick installed in the right vertical channel is cramped for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of fireclay brick is installed in the first chimney channel - it is highlighted in yellow in the figure. To lay this row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the diagram, and the chimney channels still remain united. For a row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the combustion chamber bottom are lined with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are shared with the right first channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks.
	The sixth row is laid out according to the pattern. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and there should now be three separate ducts at the rear of the stove. The base under the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks - it is placed on a spoon. The wall between the oven niche and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that there is an expansion gap between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also pre-wrapped in asbestos. For the laying of this row and the internal arrangement of the niches, 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks will be required.
	For greater clarity, this figure shows the sixth row laid out with the oven box installed.
	On the seventh row, the firebox and oven chambers continue to form - the internal lining is fire-resistant, and external masonry- red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red brick on a bed (flat). To work you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks.
	On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed, with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry follows the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks.
	Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The remaining work is carried out according to the diagram shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks.
	On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10x10 mm step is cut out of the refractory brick installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the stove for laying the cast iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks.
	Having laid out the tenth row, on a step carved in fireclay brick, along the entire perimeter internal space lay asbestos cord. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level with the outer walls of the oven, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45x45x1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and generally strengthen the row.
	On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the stove is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. To work you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick.
	For the 12th row you will need 15 red bricks - the laying proceeds according to the presented scheme.
	The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the serial pattern shown. For the 13th row you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here you need to take into account that the seams between the bricks of the bottom row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a different pattern from the 13th.
	The 15th and 16th rows are also laid according to the order pattern. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks.
	After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45x45x905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the camera, two corners are placed side by side, vertical walls to each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, a strip measuring 45x45x700 mm covers the front part of the chamber. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other.
	The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks, which cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the ceiling to extract vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the ceiling, the laying of vertical channels continues.
	The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work you will need 25 bricks.
	After this, a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is intended to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, since it must support two rows of upper masonry.
	On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and for laying you need to prepare 16 red bricks.
	The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown.
	The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown.
	The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks.
	After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate measuring 190x340 mm is mounted on the small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf.
	23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the smoke exhaust channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam outlet channel, into which a valve will be mounted to regulate the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to place a valve with a size of 140×140 mm on the prepared seat. For this row you need to prepare 17 red bricks.
	On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are combined. To work on this row you will need 15½ bricks.
	On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row you need to prepare 15½ red bricks.
	The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the demonstrated pattern.
	Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50x5x650 mm. The angle placed on the front side of the drying chambers is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with the steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet covering the chambers.
	A sheet of metal measuring 800×905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and angles. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney channel, into which smoke will flow from all other channels. The chimney pipe will be built above it.
	On the 27th row, continuous brickwork is laid on top of the metal sheet. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the oven cross-section. To lay this row you will need 32 bricks.
	The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond it by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row you will need 37 red bricks.
	Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an indentation of 50 mm inward from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven.
	The 30th row of the furnace masonry is already the first row of the chimney superstructure. A row consists of 5 red bricks. At the top of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10x10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for the chimney damper, measuring 250x130 mm. Next, the valve frame itself is mounted on the clay mortar.
	The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney damper, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Work on the construction of the chimney will begin above.

The lower diagram with a section of the design of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.