How to insulate a new house. How to properly insulate a house. Insulation schemes. Proper thermal insulation on the outside

For owners of country houses and especially country houses with year-round residence ensuring permanent comfortable temperature in all rooms is always very important. No matter how effective various heating systems are, the main factor is always the ability of the house structure to retain heat inside the building. First of all, this applies to the walls that have the largest surface area of the house and, accordingly, produce the maximum heat loss of the building. The simplest and most effective method is to insulate the walls from the outside. What materials are the most effective for insulating the walls of a house, and you can also learn about the technology for performing such work by studying this article.

Heat loss through the wall

The goal of any insulation is to minimize heat exchange with the environment.

Based on this, we can safely say that external insulation of the walls of a house is very important stage construction work:

Reducing heating costs in winter and air conditioning in summer.
Comfort and coziness in the house not only at the peak of frost and heat, but also in the off-season with minimal use of household heating appliances.

Even quality construction houses from any building materials cannot completely solve the problem of heat conservation inside them. There are always invisible gaps between the rows of logs or wooden beam, heterogeneity and voids in brick or block masonry, lack of insulation, air cavities, expansion joints for panel and monolithic housing construction.

All wall defects can be clearly identified only with the use of thermal imaging technology. This service is provided by some specialized and construction organizations to assess heat loss during heating of buildings and develop solutions to eliminate them.

The traditional solution to eliminate heat loss is various ways external insulation of walls of a private house:

Plaster using various fillers.
Wall cladding with lumber.
External single-row masonry with brick or stone for wooden buildings with filling of the resulting gap with heat-insulating materials.
Facing sheet materials() using insulation.
Application of modern curtain facades.

Sometimes do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of a private house is also done from inside the premises using sheet or roll thermal insulation materials, cladding, sheathing with gypsum fiber sheets, .

The materials and substances used to reduce heat loss are characterized by both their own low thermal conductivity and additional heat retention when used due to the multilayer structure (hydro-, sound- and thermal insulation) of wall insulation. After all, such a structure contains air layers that conduct heat poorly.

Advantages of external insulation

Structurally, there are three possibilities for insulating the external load-bearing walls of any building:

Placing insulation elements inside the wall. Possibly at the stage of construction or reconstruction of the building. Most often requires design solutions to provide bearing capacity, structural and thermal calculations.
From inside the premises. This type insulation reduces the area and volume of the room, and also creates certain difficulties in carrying out work under cramped conditions in a populated residential building.
Outside walls. This method is usually not limited by space for work, delivery and storage necessary materials, devices scaffolding and use lifting mechanisms. Depending on the materials used for insulation and finishing, it is possible to carry out work at almost any time of the year.

Important! When externally insulating the walls of a house, moisture condensation due to the temperature difference between the outside and inside the building occurs not inside the room or wall structure, but outside. This not only solves the problem of sweating and the inevitable formation of fungus when walls freeze, but also significantly slows down the process of wall destruction due to the cessation of the regular formation of moisture and ice crystals inside structures. To reliably protect the walls outside the house from exposure external factors, it would not be superfluous to use a hinged ventilated facade.

In addition, by insulating the walls from the outside, you will simultaneously solve at least two more problems - improving sound insulation and the appearance of the building, which is often no less important for the owner and family members. Thermal insulation perfectly absorbs background noise and harsh sounds, and a variety of facing materials of different textures and colors can protect walls from external influences and radically change the appearance of the house.

This method of insulation with optimal investments will help to significantly reduce heating costs, which is important taking into account heating costs with constantly rising prices for any energy source: firewood, coal, gas and electricity.

You can qualitatively insulate the walls of your house using liquid polyurethane foam. To do this, using special equipment, it is pumped into the air gap between the wall of the house and internal lining premises.

Wall materials and methods of their insulation

For the construction of load-bearing walls of buildings they will use various materials And ready-made designs, and different ways and masonry, assembly and fastening methods, adhesives and fastening elements. Physical properties These substances and materials directly shape the dynamics of temperature changes inside the house under the influence of external and internal factors.

Brick and wood, foam and reinforced concrete, blocks of cement mixture with a variety of fillers, prefabricated layered wall structures have different thermal conductivity, thermal inertia, density and strength. The worst thermal insulation properties have factory-made building structures made of reinforced concrete, which is most often aggravated by shortcomings and violations technological process at all stages of construction of buildings from it. This also applies to buildings made of monolithic reinforced concrete. All this is important for the right choice material and method of external wall insulation.

Materials used for construction and insulation of house walls

Name of material	Density	*Thermal conductivity coefficient (W/mK)**
Concrete block	2100-2200	0,8-1,74
Brick (red)	1700-1900	0,55-0,96
Wood (pine, spruce)	450-550	0,10-0,18
Polystyrene concrete	900-1100	0,25-0,39
Minvata	50-100-200	0.045-0.055-0.06 (respectively)
Styrofoam	30	0,04
Expanded polystyrene	100-125-150	0.039-0.051-0.055 (respectively)
Polyurethane foam (PPU)	50	0,033

The main task of external insulation of a house is protection building structures walls from contact with too hot or cold external air and precipitation. In practice, this range varies from traditional cladding with planed boards and clapboards to the installation of ventilated facade systems.

Wall facade

Sheathing and cladding of external walls of buildings for wind protection and insulation using lumber, roofing felt, technical cardboard, profiled metal sheet, various types siding with laying mats of mineral wool or foam sheets is the most common method of external insulation.

No less common and also used today decorative plaster various mixtures followed by surface painting. The disadvantages of this type of insulation have always been the high labor intensity and fragility of work without constant supervision, current repairs coating that is quickly destroyed by temperature changes and precipitation. The effectiveness of insulation using this method also leaves much to be desired.

The lower the density of the heat-insulating material (the more closed air cells it contains), the better insulation properties it has.

The most popular and used types of wall insulation today are various mineral wool in rolls or ready-made mats different sizes, expanded polystyrene sheets, more commonly called polystyrene foam, fiberglass materials.

More rare are foil polyethylene foam, wood fiberboard, various liquid polymer compositions, foaming in the filled volume, silicone heat-resistant paints, cellulose insulation, called ecowool, sprayed polyurethane foam.

On top of the layers of insulation and waterproofing, the walls are faced with sheet and tile materials:

Profiled sheet;
Siding;
Curtain facades.

Good to know! Corrugated sheets and siding are the most sold and used facing materials. In addition to their excellent appearance, they qualitatively protect the insulation located between them and the wall of the building from all external influences.

External wall insulation technology

To insulate the surface of the walls of buildings from the outside, several methods and technological techniques are used:

Fastening heat-insulating materials to the facade using glue or mechanical fixation. This is followed by reinforcing mesh, a layer of plaster and final painting. This method is called a wet facade.
Thermal insulation is attached to the wall in the same way as the first method. Then it is built with air gap a one-brick wall made of facing or ordinary bricks, followed by painting.
Fastening alternately the waterproofing layer, insulation, and wind protection. On the frame from the mounting metal profile or wooden block decorative cladding made of corrugated sheets, siding, and ceramic tiles are attached.

The choice of wall insulation method depends on many factors:

Type and height of the building;
Wall material and area;
Degrees of freezing and heat loss;
Finance allocated for these works.

Insulate the walls of a country house or country house the owner and his family members and friends can do it, but the work on insulating a multi-storey building should be entrusted to a specialized construction organization.

The best option for performing external insulation work:

It is better to carry out the whole range of work when there are design solutions, thermal and structural calculations, as well as specifications for building materials and fasteners. You can do them yourself or order documentation from specialists construction organization engaged in insulation of buildings.

This approach will eliminate a lot of problems: choosing a suitable certified material, its delivery, execution installation work, especially at height, which requires mandatory qualifications and permits for such work.

If the owner of a private house is confident in his abilities and construction skills, then he can choose the most acceptable method from his point of view, buy materials available everywhere today and insulate the walls outside the house himself. This way you can not only save money, but also enjoy the results.

Building the walls and roof of a house is only half the battle. It is necessary to make the built space comfortable for life. To do this, most often the house is insulated from the outside or from the inside, and sometimes both options are used simultaneously.

Do you want to insulate your home, but don’t know what technologies exist and where to start? We will help you deal with this problem - the article discusses the main options used for external thermal insulation. The order of work execution was also considered, themed photos and useful video recommendations on the nuances of insulation.

The materials from which the walls of permanent structures are erected can be different: brick, concrete, slag or aerated concrete blocks, wood, sandwich panels - these are just their main types.

For some of them, insulation is not required at all: for example, for sandwich panels. But other options need it to varying degrees.

Why do you need to insulate from the outside? Many people attribute this to the fact that if an insulating layer is installed inside a building, useful spatial volume is stolen from the interior.

This is partly true, but main reason That’s not what it’s all about. Critically important parameter is .

A dew point forms on a surface where there is a temperature difference when pressure changes.

And if you install thermal insulation inside the room, it means that the walls of the building themselves will be cold, since the insulation will save heat inside the space and prevent it from reaching the enclosing structures.

Insulation from the inside is fraught with the fact that the dew point will form inside the building, most likely on inner surface main wall, which is insulated with insulation

Methods and procedures for wall insulation

It turns out that a change in the weather outside will provoke a change in the humidity inside. Moreover, the changes will be significant - condensation will form on the walls, which will not have the opportunity to dry. Hence a number of negative aspects, including development.

This is why it is so important to insulate walls from the outside. In total, there are 3 different technologies that are used to insulate capital structures. It seems reasonable to dwell on each of them in more detail.

Method No. 1 - well

This is one of the most ancient ways to insulate the walls of your home from the outside. Indeed, everything is logical: capital investments are being built load-bearing walls, and after that, retreating a little, they are lined with another row of bricks - for example, half a brick thick.

Between the main and external, let's call it decorative, walls, a void is formed - a “well”, which creates the effect of a thermos.

The distance from the decorative wall to the main one is adjusted using special connecting steel anchors, or a reinforcing mesh is laid. It covers the section of the well and simultaneously serves as reinforcement to strengthen the outer wall.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Analysis of the most common mistakes when externally insulating the facades of private houses:

Thermal insulation capital buildings ceases to be a separate issue that is resolved after the house is built. Now it is decisive when choosing the construction technology itself.

Over time, with the rise in price of electricity and energy resources, for example, gas, the issues that will come to the fore when constructing a building heat saving.

Tell us what insulation method you used to insulate your own home and which ones you used for this. Are you satisfied with the result? Please leave your comments in the communication block located under the article.

As soon as we decide to insulate the house, a huge pile of questions appears in our heads:

How to insulate walls?
How to insulate walls?
Which is better to insulate, outside or inside?
Will the house become warmer, and won’t I be throwing money away?

In this article I will try to answer all these questions in as much detail as possible, and also talk about the currently popular materials for insulation.

How to properly insulate the walls of a house, outside or inside

Try asking any builder how best to insulate the walls of a house, outside or inside? The answer will be obvious. Everyone knows that it is necessary to insulate walls from the outside, and resort to thermal insulation of walls from the inside only in extreme cases. But at the same time, not everyone knows why thermal insulation of walls from inside the house is so undesirable.

Let's try to figure it out. The diagram shows three states of the house wall, with insulation on the outside, on the inside, and without insulation at all:

In ordinary human language, the dew point is the place where water vapor turns into water, thereby creating condensation.

If you look at the diagram, you can see that to the left of the dew point there is a positive temperature, and to the right - a negative one.

When insulating from the inside:

The wall remains unprotected by home heat, since the heat barrier made of insulation will not allow it to pass into the wall. So she's in winter period will be largely exposed to frost, constant moisture, and will not have time to dry, since we blocked the path from the inside with insulation to the heat that previously protected the wall.
At the dew point, condensation collects (water vapor in the air is converted into water droplets), this point will be as close as possible to the room, which means that the formation of moisture in this place will be maximum. As already mentioned, the insulation from the inside will interfere with the natural drying of the wall.
The constant formation of condensation, without natural drying, can lead to the appearance of various types of fungi and mold on the wall. Don’t console yourself with the thought that the fungus is behind the insulation and nothing bad will happen. Mold and various kinds of green-black formations on the wall have a detrimental effect not only on appearance, but also on the health of the residents of such a house.
If you look at the diagram, you can see that even without insulation, on a wall with inside there will be less moisture than with insulation from the inside.

When insulating from outside:

From the street side, the wall is protected by insulation from the cold, and given the insulation technology, from moisture, and from the room side - by home heat, which warms up the wall sufficiently and, even in cases of various types of condensation and moisture absorption by the wall, will contribute to its rapid drying.
We move the dew point away from the room towards the street, which means that we also move the condensation away from the room.
Insulating the outside will significantly preserve warmth and comfort in your home.

I think it has now become clear to everyone why everyone refuses to insulate the walls of the house from the inside, and more and more often resort to insulation from the outside. And it is necessary to thermally insulate the walls on the side of the room only if there is no other way out.

How to properly insulate walls with expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) from the outside

I described in detail about insulating walls with polystyrene foam in one of the previous articles. Here I will mention some main points.

Preparing the wall for installation of insulation

The first thing you need to do before insulating the walls with polystyrene foam or EPS is to clean the outside walls of the house from dirt, dust and, last but not least, level them. After this, they must be primed if you use glue to install the insulation.

If there are significant holes in the wall that you cannot level with glue, then after installing the insulation, a void may remain between the polystyrene foam board and the wall. And this is extremely undesirable, because even a slight blow or push on the insulation in the place where the hole is can deform it or break it.
If during the insulation process you encounter a small bump, it will be difficult for you to glue the polystyrene foam sheet in that place tightly to the wall.

Installation of polystyrene foam and EPS on the wall

Expanded polystyrene, as a rule, is glued to the wall using a special adhesive for polystyrene foam boards, and sometimes with special “fungi”.

In the case of insulation of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), it is necessary to make the surface on which the glue will be applied rough. There are no such problems with polystyrene foam; the glue glues it well even without additional processing, and EPS has a smoother surface, so it needs to be processed.

Very often, for reinforcement, polystyrene foam is attached simultaneously with glue and “fungi”, which is the most reliable and correct solution.

After installing the insulation, as a rule, the outside walls are plastered or lined with facing bricks.

Insulation with polystyrene foam using wooden slats

There is another type of installation of polystyrene foam boards - using a frame made of slats or other suitable material.

Slats are mounted to the wall, the thickness of which should not be less than the thickness of the insulation, or even better, it should be larger to create a ventilated space between the polystyrene foam and the cladding. The distance between the slats is chosen so that the polystyrene foam boards are tightly inserted between them without falling out.

This type of installation is acceptable if you do not plaster or line the walls with brick, but cover them with siding, for example. In this case, the slats will also become the basis for attaching facing materials.

How to properly insulate external walls with mineral wool

Another popular insulation for house walls is mineral wool insulation.

Insulating walls with mineral wool differs from insulating walls with polystyrene foam boards, primarily due to the characteristics of the insulation materials themselves.

Mineral wool, unlike expanded polystyrene, is not a sufficiently rigid insulation material, so installation of mineral wool is usually carried out frame method. But if the cotton insulation is of sufficient density, then builders also do not hesitate to install it with glue.

A frame is constructed from slats or small bars, and mineral wool is laid or rolled between them.

If the wall is concrete or brick, the bars are attached to the wall using dowel nails. Well, if the wall of the house is wooden, then use self-tapping screws.
Additionally, you can secure the mineral wool with “fungi” so that it does not roll down.

Since cotton insulation absorbs moisture very well, it will be necessary to provide waterproofing on top of the insulation. Without this, mineral wool will absorb moisture from the street and you can forget about the insulation effect.

It is also advisable to build, more or less reliable protection from various rodents by installing metal strips along the edges of the wall.

When facing walls from the outside with brick, insulation is placed between the main wall and the facing wall, and these two walls are connected with special bonds that pierce the mineral wool and at the same time hold it inside the wall, preventing it from rolling down in the future.

Insulation of external walls with polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the most modern look insulation, but also one of the most expensive. There are many advantages to insulating walls with polyurethane foam:

after application it expands, filling all depressions, crevices, etc.
at a certain density, vapor permeability is very low, which eliminates additional vapor barrier
has good adhesion, i.e. sticks well to the wall
after hardening it has good mechanical strength
good heat and sound insulating properties

Of course, every coin has two sides, and here too, there are plenty of disadvantages:

low density polyurethane foam, has good vapor permeability, which must be taken into account when insulating.
low fire resistance
expensive material
Spraying is recommended to be applied by professionals, which practically eliminates insulation with your own hands
aging of polyurethane foam over time, with deterioration of thermal insulation properties

It is better to entrust the insulation of the outside walls of a house with polyurethane foam to professional workers using personal protection, since during the spraying process dangerous toxic substances are released.

You can learn how to insulate a house from many sources, construction crews who specialize in this will also tell you a lot of things in detail. But all this - thermal insulation according to the rules - requires a lot of money.

Very often it is necessary to insulate an old house or country house perhaps not so durable, and not very beautiful, but as cheaply and quickly as possible. The cheapest insulation, by the way, is from natural materials, which were used by our grandfathers...

Cheap home insulation does not mean poor quality

You need to decide to what extent to insulate the house. For example, to make it a little warmer, or noticeably warmer, or to insulate it so that heating becomes 3 times cheaper (for example), and in winter the temperature inside rises to +25 degrees without stress on the heating side. Those. thermal insulation measures will prove to be economically feasible and will quickly pay for itself.

It is advantageous to insulate using the latter option, i.e. the highest quality. And half-hearted solutions are a waste of time, effort and resources.

Therefore, you will have to forget about all sorts of old blankets, bedding, and 5 mm thick penofols as insulation. The thickness of the insulation should be measured in tens of centimeters, then it will be warm, and saving on energy resources will “inflate your pocket.”

But how can you insulate a house at an extremely low cost? If you buy cotton insulation in hypermarkets, it won’t be cheap; if you replace windows and doors, it will be even more expensive. Let's try to make sure that the insulation is as inexpensive as possible.

Everything that opens and is transparent should be sealed and thermally insulated first.

The lion's share of heat can escape through windows and doors due to cracks and drafts. Insulating a house should begin by installing seals where anything opens. Nowadays it is not difficult to choose an adhesive-based sealant.

It is possible that there are simply gaps in the frames, trays or along their perimeter. Then all of them need to be sealed with sealant or in combination with fabric, and from the street side too.

Very often there are gaps where the glass meets the frames. Scotch tape won't help much here, although you can use it. But it’s better to take out the glass and put it on sealant.

New windows and doors are the best solution

The issue of windows and doors is the basis of heat conservation. The best solution is to insert modern frames with double-glazed windows, but this action will be the most expensive.

You need to think about which windows can be closed from the outside for the winter. plastic film so that illumination and visibility to the street are not greatly affected. The film turns into a “homemade double-glazed window” if you stretch it 1.5 - 2 cm from the glass, and at the same time make the connection with the frame airtight. To help - glazing beads, small nails, possibly sealant, after which heat leakage through this window will be reduced significantly.

Old doors, especially metal ones, are a serious bridge of cold (a place where heat escapes from the house). And if the outline of the door is already sealed, then all that remains is to stick 5 cm of dense foam plastic on top of the door leaf. As a last resort, nail a cotton blanket or felt at least 3 cm thick.

Natural heat insulators can be stored on the ceiling

You shouldn’t bother with wall insulation if the issue with attic floor and floors. Walls are not so decisive, and besides, they won’t work out cheaply. And on a horizontal surface you can put any insulation.

To insulate ceiling and floors as cheaply as possible, all that remains is to collect fallen leaves from all over the area, and also, if possible, straw and hay.

But these organic materials need to be mixed with crumbly lime to prevent biological destruction and reduce the desire of rodents to settle in such a comfortable environment. However, it is no secret that the hayloft in the attic has been used since ancient times as...

Inexpensive - polystyrene foam for the attic

In the attic you need to store a layer of natural insulation at least 35 cm thick to get the effect. Can it be replaced? Yes, the cheapest option is to replace it with polystyrene foam with a layer of 15 cm or more for a temperate climate.

You can use the cheapest one with the lowest density. But it needs to be laid in several layers, with offset seams between the sheets in the layers, so that cold bridges do not arise along the cracks. If you cover the foam with plywood and then a board, you can walk on it...

When insulating the ceiling of a house, a vapor barrier is needed. Otherwise, we risk getting the insulation, even the foam, wet, because the steam will condense just inside its layer. Therefore, first of all, the attic needs to be completely covered with plastic film. The same goes for any layer in the attic.

Placement of floor insulation

Carrying out work on floors is not fundamentally different from ceilings. First, a vapor barrier on the side of the house, then 10 cm of polystyrene foam or 25 cm of natural insulation. But how to place it all?

The insulation of finished floors depends entirely on their design. The low underground is covered with insulation on waterproofed soil. Otherwise, the insulation is placed between the joists on the panels, ventilated from below, and insulated from the side of the house by water vapor.

If it is not possible to open the floors, then all that remains is to lay something on top of the existing ones wooden floors. Then make a double floor? But it will be more expensive. "Rags" won't help. Even felt 1 cm thick will help little. But when hopeless situation and it applies.

The cheapest and easiest way is to simply lay polyethylene on the existing floor, then the same foam plastic but with a higher density of 30 kg/m cube 5 cm thick in two layers with bandaging of the seams, and simply lay a platform on it from tongue-and-groove joined boards. But at the same time, the lower old floor will quickly dry out, especially if the ventilation from below is poor...

If the loss of room height when laying a new layer on the floor is not acceptable, then maybe it’s still worth doing major insulation of the floors from underground, at least in one room to begin with...?

What is a pile?

Why did they make the pile? At least a quarter of the heat leaving the house was saved by heaps - stored hay, straw, under the boards around the perimeter of the house. This reduced heat loss through the walls, foundation and floors of the house. Now the rubble can be partially replaced by a blind area insulated with extruded polystyrene foam.

Thermal insulation of the ground around the house and the foundation itself is not only a reduction in heat loss, but also measures aimed at preserving the house and increasing its durability. More information about measures against soil heaving can be found on these pages.

All that remains is to insulate the walls, but how?

If we're talking about O wooden house, then it’s most likely not worth insulating the walls. 20 cm of dry wood is equivalent in thermal insulation to 5 cm of polystyrene foam. Almost the norm for walls in temperate climates. But if the walls are stone, brick, reinforced concrete, then you need to insulate them.

The problem is that you won’t be able to build walls cheaply—you need modern insulation, which needs to be fixed to vertical surface and protect from atmospheric influences. The insulation must be more vapor-transparent than the wall, therefore, for wood and foam concrete, mineral wool is needed, and for brick and concrete, ordinary polystyrene foam can be used.

You can insulate the walls yourself, so you will only have to spend money on materials. If you don't rush, you can insulate the walls in more than one season. But it needs to be done efficiently, in compliance with technology.

You can find out how the walls of a house are thermally insulated on this resource. Here, for example, let us recall key points How to inexpensively cover a wall with foam plastic.

Sequence of fencing walls with foam plastic

A short review about inexpensive home insulation provides only primary knowledge about the technologies used. During the work process, many questions will arise that cannot be addressed in one article. You need to know that thermal insulation measures in themselves are not complicated, so you can take on the task yourself, which means saving at least half of the money costs.

Today in construction stores There is a huge selection of all kinds of materials for insulation, finishing the walls of houses and outbuildings. In first place is, of course, polystyrene foam, light material, retains heat well, is a good sound insulator, but there is also a drawback - its fragility, if overexposed, the sheet can be broken or crumbled. Polystyrene foam is widely used in construction, industry, even the food industry, that is, quite universal material. Available in sheet form for finishing various sizes and thickness. These plates are easy to install due to their low weight, because polystyrene foam consists of 90% gas enclosed in separate foam cells.

So, let's look at what exactly is needed to insulate the walls of a private house?

Materials

1. foam
2. plastic fasteners for foam plastic (fungus)
3. reinforcing fiberglass mesh
4. screws
5. timber 50x50
6. glue
7. polyurethane foam
8. perforated corner
9. primer
10. putty
11. facade paint
12. nails

Tools

1. spatula
2. ax
3. stationery knife
4. hacksaw
5. hammer drill
6. ruler
7. roulette
8. brush
9. roller
10. container for preparing glue

Step-by-step instruction how to insulate the walls of a private house with your own hands

The first step is to prepare the surface of the walls of your house, namely to get rid of old whitewash, paints and plasters. In the author’s case, his house is far over 30 years old and during this time the walls have become covered with a decent layer of whitewash and oil paint in the corners. The house is built of cinder block and partly red brick.

Doorways should be increased to the thickness of the insulation used, in this case foam sheets 5 cm. That is, the author used timber with a section of 50x50 and sewed them on top door jambs. This is necessary so that in the end the walls are aligned with doorways, it is also necessary to take into account a layer of plaster with reinforcing mesh. But there is a drawback, namely the door will not open 180 0 only 110-115 0 which, in principle, is quite enough.

Next, you need to remove the layer of whitewash and paint, the author does this with the help of a hatchet; according to him, it is not necessary to rip off the paint entirely, but it is enough to make notches with an ax so that later you can plaster the surface.

The master also advises before you start filming lime whitewash, you need to thoroughly moisten it with water from a hose and wait a little, and then calmly remove the layers using a spatula.

After which the prepared surface is puttied and primed. Next, you need to apply glue to a sheet of foam plastic, use a spatula to make gaps over the area of the sheet, and after it is applied to the wall, the composition will spread over the surface. Glue should not be afraid of temperature changes!