Owners of apartments located on the first floors of high-rise buildings, as well as private houses, are faced with a problem that brings them significant inconvenience. This low temperature floor surfaces, which negatively affects their durability and creates discomfort for the occupants of the premises. To eliminate the problem during construction, reconstruction or repair, floor insulation is performed. The modern market offers different kinds thermal insulation materials. The methods of high-quality insulation of concrete and wooden floors.

Attention, cold floor!

Some overly thrifty owners do not attach due importance to the problem of low floor temperature in the apartment. Wanting to save on the cost of materials and work, they arbitrarily exclude technological process laying the insulating layer. The consequences of such an imprudent decision are felt during the cold season:

• the floor covering becomes covered with condensation;
• pathogenic organisms - mold and mildew - develop in a humid environment;
• the microclimate of the room is disrupted - humidity rises, temperature drops;
• heating costs increase;
• The service life of the floors is reduced.

To make living indoors comfortable and safe, you should adhere to the work technologies developed by the builders. Only a properly built and well equipped house with warm floors- a real fortress. Modern materials allow you to solve this problem quickly and without loss of quality.

7 main types of insulation materials

So that a comfortable microclimate is maintained in the house or apartment on the ground floor at the most cold winter, it is worth choosing for floor insulation best material. It must be remembered that even ideal insulation in inappropriate conditions does not perform the required functions. To select one that suits your specific requirements thermal insulation material, before purchasing, you should familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of its different types.

1. Basalt or mineral wool. A budget option, due to its low price, is extremely popular in the construction of private houses and do-it-yourself thermal insulation. Attractive due to ease of installation, low thermal conductivity, and good sound-absorbing properties. High porosity promotes good vapor exchange necessary to create comfortable conditions accommodation. It does not work well at high humidity; once saturated with water, it loses its thermal insulation properties. When installing, be sure to use protective equipment. Contact of tiny glass particles on open areas of the body and mucous membranes causes prolonged itching and redness.
2. Styrofoam. Another inexpensive and popular insulation material, characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties and low weight. In the absence of point mechanical loads and exposure to aggressive surfaces chemical substances durable and reliable. Avoid direct sunlight; when burned, it emits harmful substances. If there are rodents in the house, there is a high probability of complete destruction of the foam layer, even if protected by a screed.
3. Extruded polystyrene- improved foam. The developers have retained the useful properties of the old material in the new material and enriched it with additional advantages, in particular, quite high strength compared to foam plastic. Fire retardants included in polystyrene provide low flammability. The material works well even in an aggressive chemical environment, and does not pose a danger to human health. All its components are absolutely harmless.
4. Polyurethane foam. The extremely convenient method of applying insulation has won him enormous popularity. You just need to spray the polyurethane foam evenly over the surface from a special gun - and you can start screeding. Pros - low thermal conductivity and water permeability, long service life. The most advertised property is high adhesion to any surfaces, which is quite controversial. The material adheres really well to porous concrete, but does not adhere at all to polyethylene or galvanized metal.
5. Expanded clay, perlite, vermiculite. These natural materials(clay, volcanic rocks, hydromica) processed in a special way, are environmentally friendly and safe. However, they are characterized by high water absorption, and thermal insulation properties significantly inferior to artificial insulation. To ensure the same thermal conductivity as mineral wool, a 3 times larger layer of expanded clay will be required. Accordingly, high weight increases the load on the base. Therefore, the material is more often used to insulate a concrete floor, which is installed on an earthen or sandy underlying layer; you can read more about it.
6. Foam glass. Represents ordinary glass, foamed at the factory and formed into blocks. Excellent insulation, environmentally friendly and harmless. Not afraid of rodents, moisture, resistant to temperature changes and acids. Does not form pathogenic microorganisms and is completely non-flammable. Disadvantages: high cost, destroyed by pinpoint impacts, melts when exposed to alkalis.
7. Cork. Crushed cork oak bark, pressed into slabs, is an ideal insulation material, the only drawback of which is its high price. Otherwise, the material has a lot of useful properties: low thermal conductivity, high strength, environmental friendliness, non-flammability, biological stability, low weight, good dielectric properties. Insulating a concrete floor with cork is an excellent way to do the job yourself, accessible even to an amateur.

Installation of warm concrete floors

To insulate a concrete floor during repair or construction, you will first need to prepare quality foundation, leveled and protected with waterproofing. The old concrete slab is repaired and all uneven areas are filled with thin concrete. The entire surface of the base is covered waterproofing material. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the butt joints, they are taped. Insulation selected according to the operating conditions and material capabilities of the apartment owner is laid on top of the waterproofing.

If you choose to insulate a concrete floor extruded polystyrene boards, they are placed apart. Other materials are laid close to each other, the joints are taped to avoid the formation of cold bridges. A layer of waterproofing is again laid on the insulation, and the resulting cake is protected from deformation by a reinforcing mesh. The next step is the installation of a rough screed. The insulation is poured with a concrete mixture, compacted, leveled and left to gain strength for 28 days.

Laying heated floor cable mats under the screed

Another option for insulating a concrete floor is laying cable mats on a moisture-protected base. The technology for installing electric heated floors involves making a screed about 3 cm thick. Cable mats It is not recommended to install in places where heavy furniture is installed or plumbing equipment. Floor coverings are laid on the finished screed - linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc. In rooms with high humidity, ceramic tiles are laid.

Insulation of concrete screed under wooden covering

If the project provides for a wooden covering on joists fixed on a monolithic foundation, it is necessary to perform thermal and waterproofing of the screed. The method for insulating a concrete floor with joists is not very complicated and can be done with your own hands. The leveled base is divided into separate sections, the width of which is equal to the width of the insulation. Use as a separator wooden blocks- lags. They are fixed to the concrete surface with self-tapping screws.

When you start building a house, the question of flooring arises Firstly, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and therefore the health of the residents, will depend on them. Flooring in a private home can be installed in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

• Wooden flooring has always been considered the most popular and comfortable floor for a home, since wood, unlike concrete, is itself a warm material.
• Concrete coverings are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with wooden floors.
• Loose or floating floors weren't as popular with homeowners in the past, but Lately many are increasingly turning to this option, as it is simple to set up and can be done literally in one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, the area on which it should be placed, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even the financial capabilities of the homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm and pleasant to walk on, each of its types requires insulation, so it is definitely included in the plan general works arrangement.

Wooden floors can be made in different ways, but they are always secured to logs, which are made from beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is only possible in a room with a small area, for example, a narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are divided into single-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Pole-supported floors

Floors on supporting pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall covering. A log system installed only on support pillars is called “floating”.

"Floating" floor on supporting pillars

Floors using this system are arranged as follows:

1. The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house for installation brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected; the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.
2. Crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured into the bottom of the dug holes, then filled with water and thoroughly compacted. The better the bottom is compacted, the more reliable the support for the joist system will be, so this process must be carried out conscientiously.
3. Red brick pillars are laid on the compacted cushion, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their cross-sectional size should be at least 40×40, and preferably 50×50 cm. The erected pillars are checked for level, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.
4. On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded rods are embedded or anchors are installed, onto which the floor beams will subsequently be attached.
5. It should be noted that if the building or room has a small area, then support pillars can only be installed along the perimeter of the future room, but in this case it is necessary to lay massive beams on them.
6. After the pillars are ready, waterproofing material is laid on their upper part. It is better if it is three or four layers of roofing material.
7. Holes are drilled in the beams through which the mounting pins will pass.
8. Beams made of timber or logs are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on studs and leveled, leveled using wooden boards. When the base of the floor is laid, it is better to fix the pads to the bars using nails, and the beams themselves also need to be secured by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the studs have excess height, it is cut off with a grinder.
9. It is best to pour expanded clay onto the surface of the underground in a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well retain moisture that can come from the ground and additionally insulate the floors.
10. In order for the floor installed in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this embodiment all the conditions have been created for this. If you plan to immediately lay it on the beams floorboard, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving a distance of no more than ten centimeters between it and the wooden covering.

Subfloor

The subfloor can be constructed in several ways. The choice of a specific method will depend on the insulation material.

• If slag or expanded clay is used as insulation, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the bottom cut of the beams. The cracks between the boards are coated with clay diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay has dried, insulation can be poured into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
• If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

• A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and bottom boards and laid thin plywood. Insulation is laid on it, which is also covered with a vapor barrier on top, attached to the beams using a stapler and staples.

• Then logs measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a visual example of installing a subfloor

Wooden floor on the ground

A wooden floor is also installed on the ground. There is a scheme for this, focusing on which you can draw up a work plan.

• The soil in the underground must be compacted well, and a cushion of sand, gravel or medium-fraction crushed stone, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, placed on top of it, and then compacted again.
• Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, is laid on the compacted cushion. If desired, you can lay reinforcement mesh under it for greater strength. Waterproofing should extend to the walls at least 10 centimeters.
• For waterproofing, bricks or concrete blocks are placed on the mortar, which will subsequently become a support for the beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (standard insulation width).
• The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - this can be 50÷100 mm polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
• Install on bricks, or better yet, on concrete blocks wooden beams, level them and secure them with a corner.
• Between laid beams, for more insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
• Insulation on top, cash yeah attach a vapor barrier film.
• Then lay the floorboard, which is secured with nails carefully driven into its side.
• The board is laid at a distance one - one and a half centimeters from the wall to ensure ventilation.

Wooden floor on concrete screed

When installing the floor on concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if you need to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you cannot skimp on joists - they must be quite massive, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be immediately noted that with such a floor arrangement, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the subfloor described above, otherwise it will be very cold.

• First, a preliminary marking of the location of the joists is made on the concrete surface. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account future insulation. Marking is done by marking a line with color.
• Next, marks are made on the broken lines at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
• At these points, holes are drilled into which studs are installed with clamps located at approximately the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
• Holes are drilled in the beams themselves at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs mounted into the surface of the concrete, after which the beam is placed on the studs.
• Then, using a level, tighten the clamps in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to an ideal horizontal level, controlling it with a level.
• The nuts are tightened on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
• The next steps are the installation of the subfloor, insulation and laying of the finished floor.

Fastening the joists directly to the screed

Place joists on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself if you have the right tools.

• Strips are struck on the concrete surface, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
• Further using anchorage The logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the beams can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
• Then, it would be a good idea to lay thin insulation, for example, polyethylene foam, which can be secured to the joists using staples.
• All over the wall, all over strips cut from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
• Next, they are laid on the covered polyethylene. insulation boards material or expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is poured.

• The top of the insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier film.

• Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can be laid on top.

Concrete floor

Concrete floors are also installed in different ways, but in general they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete coating is mainly done in houses with concrete or brick walls, and begin its construction after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

• If it is needed, upper layer The soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It needs to be compacted well by pouring water.
• The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be compacted. The thickness of its backfill should be at least 10 centimeters.
• Next, a rough screed is arranged. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam chips to the solution. In addition, in this case the solution can be mixed not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
• On the finished hardened rough screed you need to spread waterproofing, which should extend 15-20 centimeters onto the walls. For it, you can take roofing felt or ordinary thick polyethylene film - the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with overlaps glued.

• Insulation - expanded clay - is poured onto the waterproofing, or extruded polystyrene foam is laid high density, the thickness of which is selected at the request of the house owner and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
• A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation and then poured finishing screed, to which you can also add insulation material. To ensure that the screed is level and there are no differences in floor height in the room, it should be done according to those exhibited according to the construction beacon level.

• If desired, such a coating can be made additional insulation. You can lay wooden floors on the finished screed, lay laminate linoleum or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents you from organizing a “warm floor” system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing complicated about installing floors using a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in recent years it has been used more and more often.

The main thing in its installation is a high-quality uniform bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slag or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only convenient to use, but also perfectly perform the task of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If the bulk material is well distributed over the area of ​​the room, it almost does not shrink, so if the work is done conscientiously, the bulk floors will last a long time.

Leveling the bulk mixture

• To ensure that the floors keep their shape and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads made of boards are installed.
• Plates made of moisture-resistant GVP, plywood or other materials are laid on top of the dry screed. sheet materials. The most important thing is to set the first slab perfectly level - this is done using a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first one. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mixture, but should be moved very carefully along the surface. The evenness of laying sheets during all work is controlled using a level.
in areas that are subject to the greatest load, for example, in aisles.
• On gypsum fiber the sheets have folds with which they are connected to each other when laying them on a dry screed.
• The sheets are stacked with an offset of half a sheet, similar to brickwork- this will increase the stability of the coating.
• Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to laying another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If used for flooring gypsum fiber sheets, then a fold is cut off from them on the first layer so that they fit tightly together and bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
• The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
• The laid top layer of sheets is fixed with the bottom with using glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They must be twisted under load - to do this, simply stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
• It is not recommended to join sheets exactly along the line of doorways - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
sealed with waterproofing material, for example, sealant.
• If such floors are installed in a room where there is high humidity, the entire surface of the floor, before installation decorative covering treated with coating waterproofing.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is quite easy to install if you take the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- according to the deadlines for completing the work similar technology under any circumstances, many times superior to any other.

There are several technologies for flooring on the ground, depending on operating conditions and owner preferences. The flooring can be laid on a wooden base or on a concrete screed or slab. In the latter case, the slab is either attached to a strip foundation, or a floating screed (self-leveling, dry) is used.

To save construction budget, the basement of the building is most often covered with floor slabs, which automatically become the base of the floor. Monolithic design located above the non-freezing in the most very coldy soil saturated with groundwater and radon radiation. Without quality natural ventilation the concrete slab begins to collapse, the health of the residents deteriorates with increased radio frequency.

Therefore in strip foundation or plinth are created ventilation holes, which cannot be closed even in winter. In cottage projects with low base There is not enough space for natural ventilation; the holes are filled with snow in winter. In this case, the only way to construct a floor is the ground technology.

Communications are traditionally routed through the lower level, so to ensure maximum maintainability, it is wiser to install duplicate sleeves and install additional water supply, gas pipeline, and sewage systems in them. If the main pipelines become clogged during operation of the house, in this case there will be no need to open the slab/screed; it is enough to move the risers to the backup life support systems.

What a developer needs to know about ground floor construction

This technology has a high operational life only if the requirements of the SP standards of 2011 numbered (formerly SNiP 2.03.13-88) are met. To understand the design of the floor “pie” on the ground of the first floor of the building, it is necessary to consider the Factors acting on the poured slab:

1. Heaving forces, which usually frighten individual developers, do not occur under most buildings. Cottages based on slabs, strip foundations, grillages resting on the ground or buried in it emit some heat to the lower level. With normal insulation of foundations (pasing the outer walls of the base with extruded polystyrene foam), the geothermal heat of the subsoil is always retained under the base of the house.
2. Any project must have drainage and/or storm drainage, which drains flood, groundwater, and melt water from the power structures of the cottage. Therefore, high humidity in the ground under a house is most often an aggressive advertisement calling on the developer to increase the construction budget to combat a non-existent danger. In fairness, it is worth noting that in the absence of stormwater and/or drainage system the soil under the building will indeed be constantly wet.
3. Even in the absence of heaving forces, the ground under the house will sag in 90% of cases during operation. The base slab tied to the strip foundation will end up hanging on it, which is not particularly scary with normal reinforcement. In this case, the floating screed will sink lower along with the floor, which will require dismantling and re-fabrication of the slab. Therefore, backfilling is used not with soil extracted at the excavation stage, but with non-metallic materials with mandatory layer-by-layer compaction with a vibrating plate or manual compaction of every 20 cm of sand and crushed stone.
4. A layer of geotextile under the pillow recommended by many companies backfill in this case, it is not only unnecessary, but also harmful. The soil will not be compacted, and the effectiveness of the screed/slab will be reduced to zero. Non-woven fabric used only in the manufacture of pillows before laying external engineering systems(sewage, water supply), paving parking lots with paving stones, paths with paving slabs. In this case, the filtering and drainage properties of geotextiles are relevant.

Thus, when choosing a floor-on-ground technology, especially on a strip foundation, it is necessary to correctly position each layer of the “pie”. This will ensure maximum service life, ease of use, and high maintainability of the design.

What layers are needed and their relative positions

With a limited construction budget for a self-leveling screed/floor slab on the ground, the minimum required layers are (from top to bottom):

• reinforced reinforced concrete screed - most floor coverings (linoleum, laminate, carpet, porcelain tiles, floorboards, cork, tiles) or a base for parquet (multi-layer plywood) can be laid on it;
• insulation – reduces heat loss and operating budget (fewer heating registers can be used);
• waterproofing - does not allow moisture to penetrate into the heat insulator from the ground;
• subbase ( concrete preparation) – films are often used as waterproofing, roll materials, membranes that are easily damaged during reinforcement, pouring the top screed, or builders’ shoes when laying heat insulation, so a slab (4-7 cm) of low-strength concrete is poured;
• cushion - when vibrating non-metallic material, stability of the geometry of the lower layer is achieved, on which the floating screed will rest.

A polyethylene film between the screed and the insulation is optional.

According to SP standards, 60 cm of pillow (3 layers of 20 cm each) is sufficient for residential buildings. Therefore, if the pit is of significant depth, which is being made for a strip foundation, it is more expedient to fill it with the same soil to the design mark, also with layer-by-layer compaction.

Building on slab foundation has a ground floor design by default. Therefore, before pouring the slab, it is enough to carry out the following steps:

• ensure duplication of engineering systems - additional sleeves with a piece of sewer + water pipe;
• make a cushion - excavate 80 cm of soil with 60 cm of backfill;
• perform waterproofing - film or roofing felt;
• lay a heat insulator - usually 5-10 cm of polystyrene foam, which retains its properties even when wet or immersed in water.

It is possible to plan the construction budget for a cottage only at the design stage. Therefore, the ground floor must be included in the documentation at the initial stage.

Technologies for constructing floors on the ground

If, due to the above reasons, the project does not have a floor slab necessary to fix the floor cladding of the first floor, several options for arranging the substructure are possible. At the same time, pouring screeds from low-strength concrete is recommended in all cases, without exception. The main slab will subsequently rest on it or adjustable joists necessary when choosing parquet or floorboards.

Self-leveling screed

Scheme of a concrete floating floor on the ground

The maximum service life of the structure is ensured by a self-leveling floating screed on the strip foundation of the building. The technology looks like this:

• filling the pit with sand - periodic backfilling with compaction every 10 - 20 cm;
• rough screed– reinforcement is not necessary; film waterproofing can be laid under concrete grade M100 (5-7 cm layer, filler fraction 5/10 mm);
• hydro-vapor barrier - membrane, film or roofing felt in two layers, running onto a monolithic strip foundation at 15 - 20 cm;
• insulation – preferably extruded polystyrene foam, which retains its characteristics even in water;
• finishing screed - reinforced with mesh (mesh 5 x 5 cm, wire 4 mm), filled with concrete M 150 (crushed stone fraction 5/10 mm, river sand or washed quarry sand, without clay).

Also, in the construction of a self-leveling floor, you can easily install a warm floor; to do this, you need to lay polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes for coolant. Each contour of a warm floor must be continuous, i.e. pipe connections in concrete screed not allowed.

Scheme of a concrete floating heated floor on the ground

When the groundwater level is below 2 m, according to the site’s operating experience of at least 3 years, the absence of lower waterproofing and a reduction in thickness in the construction of the floor on the ground are allowed sand cushion up to 15 – 20 cm. In this case, the maximum level of groundwater level should be taken into account, according to statistical data for the region. Any facing materials can be laid on the screed.

Wooden logs

A budget option for ground floor technology is the design of an adjustable floor:

• a concrete screed is poured onto a cushion made of non-metallic material (layer-by-layer compaction of 20 cm), covered with waterproofing;
• logs are placed on adjustable supports, top part which are cut off after installation;
• a heat insulator is placed inside (basalt wool or extruded polystyrene foam);
• the floorboard or laminate is laid directly on the joists; for parquet cladding, a layer of plywood is required.

Supports cannot be mounted on soil or non-metallic material. However, a concrete screed without reinforcement is cheaper than any other technology.

Dry screed

Floors on the ground can be made using dry screed technology. At the initial stage, the design is similar to the previous case (cushion + rough screed + waterproofing). After which, the sequence of actions changes. Manufacturer Knauf offers ready-made solution dry screeds of the following type:

• positioning of beacons - special strips or profiles from gypsum plasterboard systems, fixed with putty solution;
• filling with expanded clay crumbs - the gaps between the beacons are filled with this material over a layer of waterproofing;
• laying GVL - special two-layer slabs attached to each other with glue and self-tapping screws.

Scheme of a dry floor on the ground using Knauf technology

ZIPS company offers original solution dry screed on a strip foundation of another type. Here the expanded clay chips are replaced with mineral wool glued to the gypsum fiber board (also two-layer). After installing the gypsum fiber panels, 12 mm plywood is laid on top of them, which is also convenient for attaching any floor covering.

These technologies are successfully used both for the first floor and for any subsequent floor in a multi-story building. In both cases, in addition to thermal insulation, sound insulation of the premises is provided.

Features of self-leveling screed technology

When building a floor on the ground, it is necessary to take into account several nuances:

• roots are removed inside the contour of the foundation tape, removed fertile layer, not suitable for compaction;
• polyethylene film allows radon to pass through, so it is better to use polycarbonate, vinyl acetate, and PVC modifications laid in two layers;
• It is imperative that the waterproofing does not allow steam to pass through, i.e. was a water vapor barrier (or simply a vapor barrier), because moisture in the soil is also in a vapor state;
• It is recommended to run the film onto the strip base around the perimeter 15 cm above the designed screed (subsequently trimmed with a knife);
• the insulation is applied to the height of the slab being poured; above this level, a damper tape is used to provide sound insulation from structural noise.

The floating screed of each floor in the house is created for several purposes. Cutting off the slab from the walls allows you to compensate for internal stresses inside it and prevent cracking from possible shrinkage wall materials, isolate the noise transmitted to power frame cottage with generators, compressors, boilers, and other power equipment.

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Floors on concrete slabs can withstand high loads. For this reason, most often they become part of structures multi-storey buildings. Laying slabs is a fairly simple task, but the characteristics of the material make some adjustments to the flooring process.

What should you consider when working with a concrete base?

1. Surface roughness;
2. Gaps between plates;
3. Fairly cool temperature.

Creating a screed on a concrete slab

The installation of a floor on a slab suggests the presence of several options. The simplest one is pouring screed. You can make it in several ways:

• Mix sand and cement (with the addition of water);
• By preparing a special mixture.

The old method is no longer very relevant today. Where better than the second one option. Of course, purchasing a dry mixture will cost a little more, but the result of its use will be much better. The fact is that manufacturers put on the market improved formulations, which include plasticizers, polymers and other components that improve product quality.

Installation process

First of all, you need to inspect the slab for defects in order to know which places you will have to pay more attention to when pouring the mortar. Afterwards, a primer is applied to it (with a roller or brush).

Important! It is best to use a deep penetration primer. When the surface is dry, you should move on to the screed. The layer should not be very thick. Its task is to hide defects and slightly level the surface. In about a day, the screed will dry out and it can be covered with film. Polyethylene will play the role of a vapor and water insulator. The film should cover not only the floor, but also at least 15 centimeters of the wall.

Afterwards, they are displayed throughout the area metal profiles or wooden slats. So called beacons are installed in one horizontal plane.

How to install a beacon?

1. In the corner of the room, near the stove itself, install a laser level. When the light rays mark a contour on the walls, make sure that they exactly repeat the floor level along which the finishing will need to be done.
2. Beacons must be installed over the entire area (along the contour) at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule that will be used to level the screed. First, strong threads are stretched from opposite walls. They are attached to self-tapping screws. Beacons are fixed using gypsum or screed mortar.

Final stages

Having installed the beacons, you can proceed to laying the insulation. There are no restrictions in the choice of material, but expanded clay will be the most optimal. It does not need to be protected with film, unlike porous insulation. Then it’s the turn of the main screed. It must be dense and also have a thickness that can withstand heavy loads (5-15 cm).

Important! To make a level floor, you need to use a rule. It should be placed on the beacons and pulled towards you. As a result, the excess mortar will be drawn towards the wall and fill the unevenness.

The floor will dry in a few days. Then it will be possible to remove the beacons and fill the gaps. Finishing It is recommended to carry out only on a completely dry surface.

Making a plank floor

Wooden flooring is still the most popular in private homes. Its installation is not particularly difficult. The device must begin with the elimination of base defects. The usual cement-based mortar will do. It is used to seal cracks, chips, and seams between slabs.

Then, with the help laser level the contour along which the finishing surface is ultimately set is determined, and it’s time to create the overall structure.

Main works

The floor is covered with waterproofing material as indicated at the beginning. Then the logs are installed. They are installed in the same horizontal plane.

Important! The logs are fixed perpendicular to the boards, and the boards are fixed perpendicular to the wall with the window.

There are several options:

1. Using long self-tapping screws, the joists are cut through and fixed to the floor. The holes in the slab are made in advance. Plastic dowels must be inserted into them.
2. Along the edges of the logs you can install supports made from wooden slats or pieces of logs. The supports are attached to the floor, the logs are laid between them.
3. A modern method is to install logs on lifting devices.

Final stages

After installing and securing the logs, you should start insulating the floor. The insulation is laid in the space between the joists. The type of material used is not important, its thickness is important. When installing wooden floors, the main thing is not to forget to leave a gap between the clean coating and the insulation. It will become a ventilation that will remove excess moisture and will increase the service life of the coating and thermal insulation materials.

Now all that remains is to cover the surface with polyethylene and proceed to the final step - laying the boards.

Water floor installation

Before moving on to installing warm water floors, you need to deal with their thermal insulation. For this case, foil insulation is best suited. It is covered with reinforcing mesh. Afterwards you can lay out the pipes for water heating. They are fixed to the mesh with plastic clamps.

Important! For greater reliability, a reinforcing mesh is also laid over the structure.

To protect expansion joints, pipes are laid along the walls (corrugated ones are suitable). It will be possible to proceed to pouring concrete after hydraulic tests. Water system checked for faults within 24 hours. All detected problems are promptly corrected.

To make the final screed of a warm water floor, you need to use a cement mortar. The thickness of the layer should be within 5-15 cm. In a day or two it will dry, after which you can proceed to the direct use of the heated floor. The temperature should be increased gradually.

This method of installing warm water floors is relevant not only if the base is a floor slab, but also a concrete floor on the ground. A water floor is perfect for both home and apartment. It is warm, durable, and protects against moisture and mold.

Laying self-leveling floors

To make a self-leveling floor the main coating, you need to start with a base primer. Epoxy or polyurethane primer is applied in two layers (only from one mixture). The front layer is applied exclusively to the decorated coating. Photo printing looks especially impressive on the surface. It is made on a special film, and a transparent self-leveling floor is laid on top.

Laying technology

The process of installing self-leveling floors begins with a standard procedure - cleaning the surface from dust and dirt. Next, a primer is applied. After it dries, along the vertical surfaces that will come into contact with the self-leveling floor, damper tape is glued around the perimeter. It protects the self-leveling base from cracking.

Then it’s time to apply the self-leveling floor solution. It must be done strictly following the instructions, using an electric mixer at low speed.

Important! To obtain a homogeneous composition, you need to stir the mixture according to the principle: stir and stop. The duration of action-inaction should be the same and not exceed 5 minutes.

The finished solution is poured onto the surface and spread with a roller or spatula, and air bubbles are removed with a needle roller. The thickness of the fill should be at least 3 cm. Now you need to wait for the coating to harden.

Important! Direct sunlight and drafts have a negative effect on uncured material.

For a while completely dry The surface is also affected by its thickness. The curing time is indicated on the packaging of the dry mixture. Typically, installation work ceramic tiles they begin after three days, and the installation of parquet begins after a week.

The role of OSB in floor construction

OSB or OSB is used to achieve one or all of 3 objectives:

1. To level the floor and hide defects.
2. In order to ensure good sound insulation. The multilayer structure successfully absorbs noise.
3. To insulate the floor and make high-quality waterproofing. Material on natural basis It is characterized by increased moisture resistance and excellent heat retention.

Features of the use of the material

OSB (OSB) is not always attached to the floor. If the concrete base has big differences heights or significant unevenness, the slabs are fixed to wooden beams. The latter successfully act as lags.

Important! Maximum resistance to deformation is provided by OSB (OSB) boards with a thickness of 10 mm. They are laid in two layers (offset). The parts of the material are fastened using glue or spiral nails.

At first glance, the floor design concrete base is nothing complicated.

However for the right technology installation, it is necessary to take into account many factors that in one way or another can affect its service life.

This is a multi-layered structural element of a house, subject to numerous loads and impacts. external environment, therefore, the design of work must be treated with due attention and responsibility.

Technological requirements

The correct installation of the floor on a concrete slab is carried out in accordance with construction requirements and norms. They characterize design features all elements.

In addition, they must meet standard requirements specific to a given situation: be durable, moisture-resistant, wear-resistant.

When making a floor for a living space, you need to think about heat and sound insulation in advance. If we talk about standard technological requirements, we can identify a number of norms characteristic of this situation.

Characteristic	Name, technical specification	Short description
GOST 31358 - 2007	Dry cement-based construction floor mixture	Properties and compositions cement mixture. Use for floor
GOST 10178 - 85	Cement	Technical features and requirements for the material used for the screed
GOST 25328 - 82	Cement for mortar	Regulatory data regarding the composition and characteristics of the mixture
GOST 24640 - 91	Additive for cement	Type and method of use of the additive used for filling floors
GOST 7473 - 94	Concrete mix	Compositions, manufacturing technology and use of concrete-based mixtures
SNiP 2.03.01-84	Concrete and reinforced concrete structure	Installation of reinforced concrete structures, floor screeds with reinforcement
SNiP 3.02.01-87	Earthwork base and foundation	Subfloor installation process
SP 52 – 101 - 2003	Concrete and reinforced concrete structures without prestressing reinforcement	Concrete reinforcement process
SNiP 2.03.13-88	Floors	Floor design, installation requirements

Design, material selection and installation must be carried out based on the requirements presented in these documents. Compliance with the standards will allow you to create a surface that will meet all established parameters.

Among other things, it will have the following characteristics:

1. A smooth and durable base will be created, convenient and practical for the safe movement of people.
2. It will be of high quality, wear-resistant, durable.
3. According to sanitary and epidemiological standards, a foundation will be created that is harmless to humans and provides good conditions for accommodation.
4. The operational standard characterizes ease of maintenance and possible repair.

All documents were developed by specialists and engineers, so it is not recommended to neglect them.

Classification

Floors consisting of screed, insulation and flooring are called separate

Full analysis element allows you to identify several categories of genders, divided by purpose. This industrial buildings, residential buildings, public institutions and livestock buildings.

There are several more distinguishing features, first of all, division by type: monolithic, roll and piece. Analysis of the installation site is divided depending on the location: above a heated room, floor construction on the ground, along the interfloor ceiling.

Regarding sanitary standards, there are 3 types of floor installation:

• single-layer, made of material that complies with GOST for heat loss and sound transmission;
• separate structure, made of a separate layer of sound insulation, screed and finishing coating;
• hollow, made along logs (cuts) with heat and sound insulation laid between them.

You can understand how to make a good floor while meeting numerous requirements only after fully familiarizing yourself with the standards.

When faced with the question of which floor is better, many come to the conclusion that a concrete base is one of the most unpretentious.

It is superior to wood for many reasons, the main one of which is its immunity to the formation of decay processes.

In addition, concrete will not creak over time; it has enough durable surface, which is practically not afraid of mechanical influences.

Concrete is not susceptible to stress and is durable

Moisture resistance indicators compared to wood are also excellent. However, it should be borne in mind that some of the disadvantages of a wooden floor can be eliminated by using modern technologies.

Shouldn't be extolled concrete surface and forget about its disadvantages. You can get rid of a constantly cold floor only after installation additional source its heating (warm floor). Based on this, the most the best option tiles will be laid directly on concrete in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen. For residential premises and living rooms, it is recommended to use other materials with inherent warmth and comfort.

The boards can be glued to concrete or laid on wooden joists

To lay wood on a concrete base, you can use one of 3 methods.

Each of them is rationally different from the previous one, which allows us to talk about different advantages and shortcomings.

The methods are as follows:

• the boards are glued to the concrete base;
• laid on wooden logs;
• laid on plywood sheets.

All methods of installing a floor on a concrete slab have one thing in common - surface preparation is carried out identically, regardless of further actions.

The screed must be thoroughly dried and leveled.

Convex areas can be removed by grinding with a grinder, depressions can be filled with a self-leveling mixture.

After this, it is recommended to prepare the base for laying communications running under the floor. These could be elements warm floors, sewerage pipeline, water supply, electrical, television or internet cable.

The cuts can be made with a grinder

When processing a room with an area of ​​more than 50 m2, it is advisable to make seams that limit the deformation of the slab. In this case, using a grinder with a diamond wheel, several cuts are made. Only after this is it possible to coat the base with a primer.

The antiseptic will act as a waterproofing agent and protect the base from the formation of mold or fungal growths on wooden elements. The most optimal impregnation option is a one-component primer mixture. After making sure that the concrete is completely dry, you can begin laying the floor.

The humidity of the base slab should be no more than 4%.

Gluing

Glue the wide board with polyurethane compound

Bonded floor construction is considered the most common method of installing wood on concrete subfloors. For this, various types of compositions are used, differing depending on the type of board.

The wide massive one is glued using a modified elastic one-component polyurethane adhesive. A narrow solid or engineered board is fixed with a two-component polyurethane compound.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Boards are cut to the required size.
2. The adhesive composition is applied from the far corner of the room to the near one, distribution over the surface is carried out using a notched trowel.
3. 3 - 4 boards are placed on this area and firmly fixed. At the same time, you should press them tightly against each other; this can be done with a tightening belt or wedges.
4. After checking the laid row, the procedure is carried out in the previously described manner. For more information on how to glue finishing material to the floor, watch this video:

The distance between the end board and the wall should be at least 10 - 15 mm.

The logs should be no thinner than 2 cm

This device involves installing boards on wooden logs, firmly fixed to a concrete base. This method can only be used if their thickness is more than 20 mm. Otherwise, they will sag under load.

It is allowed to distribute the timber on the surface according to the approved parameters, depending on the thickness of the board. To independently determine this value, you can use the table below as a guide.

The cross-section of the logs does not play a role in this situation, since they are installed on a solid surface.

The boards are fixed with self-tapping screws

Only after all calculations have been completed and the material has been purchased and cut according to the right size, you can begin self-installation.

At the same time, do not forget to treat all wooden structural elements with an antiseptic, which protects it from moisture and fungus.

The order of work is to perform the following actions:

The peculiarity of the design is its higher cost and the ability to place thermal insulation under the floor and hide communications there.

On plywood

It is recommended to lay plywood diagonally

To lay a wooden floor on a concrete slab, sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 16–20 mm are used.

The material must be moisture resistant. The purchased slabs are cut into small strips 50–80 cm wide.

Laying is carried out in a diagonal direction to the location of the coating. The gaps between them should not exceed 3 mm. The strips are glued with glue or fixed to dowels and nails. After installation, the surface is thoroughly sanded and cleaned of dust.

It is important that the plywood is not too thin

The advantage of this method is the ability to level a surface that has height differences of up to 1 cm. The method of laying on plywood is considered the simplest and most inexpensive.

However, when performing installation, you need to take into account several features. First of all, this is the thickness of the sheets, which must correspond to the size of the boards being laid down. In addition, mandatory primer treatment and thorough cleaning.

The advantage over the method using logs is that the height of the ceilings of the room practically does not change.

Sometimes there are opinions from uninformed people that installing a floor on a concrete slab is a rather complicated, expensive and troublesome task. In fact, this is far from the case.

Wide selection of modern construction and finishing materials allows you to solve this problem in a short period of time. At the same time, the coating will be quite warm and durable, although it will be located on a cold concrete slab. To learn how to properly install plywood sheets on joists, watch this video:

The only thing that is required of you in this situation is strict compliance with technological requirements and standards associated with various characteristic properties building materials used to perform work.