Insulation of wooden frame walls. What insulation is best to use for a frame house. Features of insulation with various materials

Russia is a country with a changeable climate, long cold winters, and the need to constantly insulate and heat your home. Residents are forced to either increase the thickness of the walls of their houses, or install additional heating devices, or decide how to insulate frame house For winter accommodation. The first two options lead to increased costs. The third one deserves special attention and consideration.

In the world, it is becoming more and more relevant and in demand in individual housing construction. frame technology. The ancestor was Canada, a significant part of which is located beyond the Arctic Circle. The following advantages are currently known: frame method allowing you to get a warm home:

  • fast construction. No more than a month passes from the “first nail” to commissioning. significantly speed up the construction process.
  • walls, bearing structures have little weight. The load on the foundation is reduced. You can limit yourself to a shallow-depth tape;
  • Appropriate impregnation and treatment are sufficient to make the building absolutely safe and resistant to fire. Modern frame houses use both convection and gas heating, and heating with electricity. It is enough to solve ventilation problems at the stage of completed construction, and there will be no condensation, mold, or pathogens on the walls. And the walls will not heat up excessively, which could theoretically lead to a fire.

Many, having read reviews and comments, mistakenly believe that frame houses are used exclusively in summer time, in the fall the building is preserved until spring and winter period not used. Our article will tell you how to properly insulate and when it is best to do it in order to avoid unnecessary heating costs. And you decide whether to live here year-round or not, how to properly preserve a frame house until warm days and should we be afraid that the building will collapse under the influence of temperature changes.

External and internal insulation

Whether to insulate a building from the outside or from the inside is best decided at the construction stage. Not only the labor intensity and technology of work, but also financial costs will depend on this. Insulation is carried out either from the outside or from the inside. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Research both options thoroughly before making your choice.

External insulation

The following is typical for external insulation:

  • work can be carried out at any time; after construction is completed and the building is put into operation, nothing will have to be dismantled or rebuilt;
  • As insulation, either polystyrene foam (in the modern variation, fire-resistant penoplex) or mineral wool in sheets, mats, and rolls are used. Each of these materials will not only retain heat indoors, but will also prevent the house from overheating in the summer under the sun's rays;
  • will face the inside of the room wooden base buildings characterized by low thermal conductivity. To warm up the house and maintain the set temperature regime less energy is wasted.

Internal insulation

It is better to insulate the building from the inside before the installation of drywall and finishing work. Otherwise, you will have to re-plaster, paint, and wallpaper. Result? Additional costs, it will take more time to full cycle preparing the building for use and restoring its original appearance.

The following disadvantages must also be mentioned: internal insulation:

  • cold air from the street will pass through the facing materials and collide with the heat stored inside. Between layers of SIP panels or frame walls condensation will accumulate, inevitably leading to the formation of mold, fungal colonies, and premature failure of the walls;
  • the facade does not receive protection from the sun, moisture, and temperature changes. Strong wind, numerous freezing/warming cycles will also bring the moment of repair or complete reconstruction of the building closer.

Selection of material for insulation

When choosing insulation, you need to pay attention to the following qualities:

  1. Environmental Safety. The material should not become a source of toxic smoke or harmful volatile substances.
  2. Fire resistance and high temperatures. High-quality insulation materials can withstand direct exposure to fire for several minutes without changing their structure. The building should not burst into flames like a match.
  3. Reduced heat loss. Brick is the main material for the construction of private houses. But sufficient heat preservation is possible if the walls are laid up to 1 meter thick. In frame housing construction, the thickness of the external walls does not exceed 20 cm. And the insulation layer should be enough to live in the building not only in the summer, but also in the coldest months, if it is heated in the standard mode.
  4. Strength, resistance to deformation, preservation of the original shape throughout the entire period of operation. It is important to understand that layers of insulation will be located under the lining, siding, drywall and other finishing materials. It will be impossible to verify the absence of defects. If the insulation becomes deformed after a year or two, cold bridges will appear in the walls, “eating up” all the heat from the heating system.
  5. Price. Frame house construction is valued due to the low cost of materials, components and the assembly process. And insulation should not lead to a doubling or tripling of the cost of the entire building.

Expanded polystyrene sheets (penoplex)

The material is lightweight. This quality is important if it is not planned during the construction phase additional insulation. There will be no additional load on the supporting structures. Among other advantages, we highlight:

  • immunity to temperature changes. Numerous freeze/thaw cycles do not lead to changes in the internal structure;
  • water does not penetrate inside the cells, does not freeze there and does not cause cracks or deformation.

But it is important to understand that polystyrene foam and its modifications are not flawless. Among negative qualities let's highlight:

  • instability to high temperatures, rapid ignition;
  • under mechanical shocks, polystyrene foam is deformed, the sheets will have to be changed;
  • the room will become a kind of thermos due to low air permeability.

Using mineral wool for insulation


The material surpasses all others in popularity for the following reasons:

  • designed for installation both externally and externally inner surface walls;
  • does not absorb or emit harmful substances, does not burn, does not smolder;
  • excellent heat and sound insulator with low weight;
  • Rolled material is used when working with curved surfaces, corners, arches.

There are also disadvantages:

  • Waterproofing cannot be neglected. If the cotton wool gets wet, it protective properties will be leveled;
  • required good fastening. Sheets or mats should not sag or move away from the wall.

How to insulate a facade

The insulation procedure involves several successive stages:

  • preliminary cleaning of surfaces. The cracks must be carefully puttied and sealed with a special adhesive;
  • applying a primer that improves adhesion;
  • installation of foam sheets, mineral wool. It is better not to use screws, anchors, or other fasteners. Between the base and the insulation, cracks and gaps are not allowed;
  • laying a waterproofing membrane that protects from street moisture and installation facing material. Preliminary treatment is carried out with antiseptics against rot, mold, and fire.

How to insulate a sheathed house from the inside

It is better not to postpone this option until the period when people are already living in the house and wallpaper has been hung. As soon as the installation of the frame is completed and antiseptic treatment has been carried out, begin insulation work in the following order:

  • A vapor barrier membrane is glued onto the base. Smooth side facing the room;
  • Then the guides are attached, between which mineral wool is placed. For fastening, use either a special adhesive composition, or dowels with a flat wide head;
  • laying waterproofing film to maintain an optimal microclimate in the building;
  • installation of special slats that hold the insulation in one position.

Decoration and installation in progress OSB boards, drywall, plastering, wallpapering.

It is important to emphasize: only installing insulation boards will not help make the house suitable for winter living. You will have to solve heating problems: installing a gas or electric boiler. There are many options, but traditional wood burning stove It is better not to use for safety reasons.

If there are “men with hands” in the family who know how to work with simple tools, a frame house can be assembled independently at suburban area. But in order to live in a frame house all year round, without fear of cold and heat, its walls will need to be insulated with heat-insulating materials.

Insulation of walls in a frame structure can be done with polystyrene foam, ecowool, a mixture of straw and clay, sawdust concrete, and others bulk materials. One of the most popular insulation materials for frame houses today are slabs made of basalt fiber.

The reason for its popularity is simple: firstly, this material is non-flammable, which is very important for wooden house. Secondly, it retains heat perfectly, at the same time it is vapor permeable, environmentally friendly (completely harmless to humans and animals), and also very durable (manufacturers provide a guarantee for the product for at least 50 years). Another advantage is the ease of working with this insulation. Mineral wool boards are lightweight, easy to cut, not friable during processing, do not emit any harmful odors, retain their shape well, do not sag or wrinkle over the years.

Basalt insulation is not susceptible to mold, attacks by rodents and insects, and therefore is well suited for insulating floors along joists, insulating walls and roofs.

Modern thermal insulation based on basalt fiber reduces construction costs, since the installation of lightweight heat-saving slabs does not require strengthening the foundation and supporting structures.

Basalt insulation maintains a comfortable microclimate indoors: the air is evenly heated in all rooms, and natural ventilation of the air layers occurs. IN summer period insulated walls keep the building cool well, saving residents from the heat; in winter, they retain heat for a long time, saving costs on heating the home.

Fibers protect load-bearing enclosing structures from temperature changes, extending the life of the building, and also perform a soundproofing function.

If the listed advantages seem attractive to you and you want to insulate the walls frame house independently, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the tips on the use of new generation thermal insulation materials from the TechnoNIKOL Company, created on the basis of a biopolymer binder.

Installation rules

Reliably insulate country house can be done by observing the following sequence of layers:

The first layer from the inside - a reinforced vapor barrier film - is designed to protect against internal moisture. It is rolled out from a roll and secured with a stapler from the inside of the wood onto butyl rubber tape - in the places adjacent to wooden beams. The joints of the vapor barrier are taped with tape.

Note that the vapor barrier of the insulation on the room side is strictly mandatory element the proposed system. The main task This layer is to protect insulating mats from the penetration of moist warm air into the material. Therefore, it is important that the vapor barrier layer is sealed and continuous, without cracks or breaks. The film sheets must be glued together; The vapor barrier must fit tightly to adjacent elements and structures. During installation and during interior decoration this should be protected thin layer from any mechanical damage, punctures and scratches.

The second stage is to lay thermal insulation slabs, which are tightly fixed between the uprights of the wooden frame (the craftsman takes measurements and cuts the slabs to fit right size). The width of the cut material should be 1-2 cm wider than the distance between the frame posts. Due to its elasticity, slabs made of stone wool stand up well and do not require additional fixation.

For better heat retention, such insulation is usually installed in two layers, with the slabs of each new layer offset relative to each other by half their length (to eliminate cold bridges). The thickness of the insulation is calculated depending on the region of construction.

To protect against external influences, the slabs are coated with hydrocarbons. windproof membrane TECHNONICOL, which is attached to the frame posts with a stapler. The membrane layers at the joints are fixed to each other using adhesive tape.

Before installing façade cladding material on work surface the counter-batten is fixed, a marker is used to mark the level for installation finishing. At the end, the façade is faced with any decorative panels(siding, block house), the installation of which occurs from bottom to top.

Installation can be carried out both from the inside out and vice versa: first install outer skin, and then install thermal insulation on the room side. The last option is most preferable in the Russian climate - due to the danger of sudden rain. During installation thermal insulation boards It is recommended to protect from exposure to precipitation.

Stone wool slabs should be protected from moisture during storage. Therefore, packs of basalt insulation should be stored strictly under a canopy, or in covered storage areas. Installation is best done after external walls already covered with wind- and moisture-proof film and finishing material. In case of installation with outside buildings, it is important to carry out work with clamps to eliminate the possibility of the product getting wet during rainfall.

The solution described above from the TechnoNIKOL company with an environmentally friendly, fireproof, excellent heat-saving stone wool material is easy to implement with your own hands; It is easy to use and will last for many years without repair.

The sound insulation, comfort and durability of the entire structure depend on how correctly and with what kind of thermal insulation material the frame house is insulated. High-quality insulation will retain heat inside the room for a long time and save the amount of energy required for heating it. That is why it is extremely important to know how to insulate a frame house for winter living from the inside and outside.

Insulation from outside

One of the best options for thermal insulation of a frame building is cross insulation.

Note! Insulation mats are always laid with the seams staggered so that they do not coincide. This will help avoid the appearance of blown cracks.

Cross insulation allows you to block all cold bridges in the frame, which are wooden elements designs. To do this with outside At home, in addition to the standard insulation layer of 15 cm, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation 5 cm thick.

To do this, bars measuring 50x50 mm are attached to the outside of the frame in a horizontal position. They are installed alternately, from bottom to top, at a distance of 59 cm from each other (this distance depends on the width of the insulation used; 1 cm less than the insulation). After that, 5 cm thick thermal insulation is placed between them in the spacer. Once all the insulation is installed, it is covered with a moisture-proof membrane. It will not only protect it from moisture and wind, but will also hold the slabs in the frame. The insulation inside the house will also not be able to fall out, since it is laid across the frame.


Scheme of a cross-insulation pie for a frame house

Sheets of windproof film are laid overlapping, at least 15 cm on top of each other. Secure the membrane to the bars with a construction stapler. Another sheathing is placed on top of the film using bars measuring 5x5 cm - for installation finishing coating and to create a ventilation gap.

Insulation from the inside

After the installation of insulation on the outside of the frame house is completed, they proceed to laying the first layer of thermal insulation 5 cm thick from the inside of the building. It is mounted in such a way that the slabs are flush with all the jibs. The next layer is thermal insulation with a thickness of 10 cm. It completely fills the entire frame between the racks.

After this, a high-quality vapor barrier membrane is attached from the inside; it will limit the penetration of steam into the insulation. Place the smooth side against the thermal insulation and the rough side inside the room. The sheets are spread overlapping, and the abutments are glued double-sided tape. It is mounted on top of it with lathing beams 5x5 cm for fastening the finishing coating.

Note! The insulation cannot be compacted or pushed by force, since the thermal conductivity of mineral wool depends on the number of air voids in its structure.

Thermal insulation should be as free as possible between the frame posts, filling it completely, without gaps.


Scheme of the pie for internal insulation of the walls of a frame house

Insulation is also installed in the interior partitions, but not for the purpose of insulation, but as sound insulation. Mineral wool insulation, especially basalt, is a good soundproofing material. The slabs are laid in a layer of 100 mm (2 x 50 mm with joints spaced). For interior partitions installation of a vapor barrier membrane is not required, since the temperature in the room on both sides is approximately the same. Therefore, heat does not tend to escape and does not saturate the insulation with wet steam.

Note! Glassine is used instead of vapor barrier for interior partitions. It prevents mineral wool dust from leaking into the room. Cover it with insulation on both sides.

The insulation of the basement floor of a frame house is practically no different from the thermal insulation of walls. Essentially this is the same wall, but in a horizontal position. From below, the floor is covered with a high-quality windproof membrane with an overlap on the strapping beam on all sides. The film is secured to the subfloor so that the insulation laid in the frame does not squeeze out or tear it. Next it is laid in 2 or 3 layers thermal insulation material with seam spacing.

The basement floor must be insulated with a layer of 200 mm. IN interfloor ceilings a layer 15 cm thick is laid for sound insulation, and the attic is thermally insulated with a layer of 250 mm.


Scheme of insulation of the basement floor of a frame house

How not to damage the vapor barrier and other nuances

By standard scheme To insulate a frame house, the installation of 150 mm of thermal insulation material is required.

But there are several nuances that need to be taken into account:

  1. The frame of the house itself allows heat to pass through, as the thermal conductivity coefficient of wood is significantly higher than that of any insulation.
  2. After installing thermal insulation based on mineral wool, for example, basalt, on the outside of the building, it is necessary to cover it with a windproof membrane, and cover it from the inside with a vapor barrier film.

Since inside the frame they pass power networks, then the exits are passed through a vapor barrier. As a result, the film becomes leaky, and some of the heat passes through the holes to the outside, letting cold into the house. Even after gluing with special tape, the tightness of the structure cannot be guaranteed.

To avoid such a problem, you should make additional sheathing according to inside frame and fill it with insulation 5 cm thick. It is extremely important to arrange it as evenly as possible, using building level or laser level. Since in the future it will be attached to sheet material, for example, plasterboard, for finishing with a finishing coat.

The bottom beam of the sheathing should retreat from the monolithic part of the foundation by about 15-17 cm. This is necessary so that when pouring the floor screed, it does not overlap the sheathing and insulation.

Before installing the frame, you must immediately take into account the dimensions of the insulation boards so that there is no need additional fastenings. But at the same time, the center-to-center distance between the horizontal slats must be at least 120 cm (according to the size of the drywall sheet).

For high-quality finishing frame house requires the installation of two layers of drywall. The first is mounted in a horizontal position, and the second in a vertical position.


Thanks to this method, the sockets will be installed up to the vapor barrier layer, that is, its tightness will not be compromised. In addition to all this, an additional sheathing with insulation 5 cm thick will completely block all the cold bridges and cover the entire frame of the house, increasing the thermal insulation of the room.

When choosing thermal insulation and hydro- and vapor barrier building materials, preference should be given to manufacturers famous brands, whose products have been tested by time, and also have quality and safety certificates. Cheap insulation materials can quickly lose their heat-saving characteristics or be unsafe for indoor use.

In the previous article, I described step-by-step instructions for assembling a frame house with your own hands. Now, we will look at instructions on how to properly insulate it and isolate it from wind and moisture, so that during operation it remains for a long time reliable protection from frost in the cold season, and also saved from the sweltering heat in summer.

What insulation to use for a frame house

I will not describe here which insulation is better for a frame house; this is a separate topic, and it is discussed in detail in another article.

But it is worth noting that about 80% of total number frame houses are insulated with mineral wool or insulation based on it. Taking this into account, this step-by-step instruction, basically, will be based precisely on such insulation.

  • In addition to mineral wool, there are several other types of insulation that are, to one degree or another, suitable for use as thermal insulation for frame houses, such as ecowool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay and others. We will talk about the differences in the technology of their use at the end of the article.
  • Insulation of a frame house with glass wool occurs in exactly the same way as with insulation based on mineral wool, so we will not consider this type of insulation separately.
  • Mineral wool, compared to other types of insulation, is the most universal material. It is used to insulate not only frame houses, but also any others. It is used as insulation almost everywhere in the construction of private houses.

It is important to know that when working with mineral wool, especially indoors, it is necessary to use products personal protection, such as gloves, goggles and a respirator. Contact with skin can result in severe itching, redness, and allergic reactions.

In principle, the insulation of all parts of a frame house is not much different from each other, but there are still some nuances, so it is necessary to consider each part separately.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the floor of a frame house

The technology of floor insulation largely depends on the type of foundation, but since most frame houses are currently built on a pile-screw foundation, this is what we will start from when insulating the floor.

  1. Insulation of the floor of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, begins with waterproofing. In addition to the waterproofing membrane, we still need to build a structure under the floor joists that will hold both waterproofing material, and the insulation itself, as shown in the diagram.
  2. If the house is located high relative to the ground, and you can crawl under it, then first, under the floor joists, tension waterproofing membrane and fastens furniture stapler. The overlap of the waterproofing strips should be as tight as possible so that there is no leakage from under the floor. Find out from the manufacturer which side the material is stuffed in and which side is out.
  3. Also, from below, on top of the waterproofing, a board is made. The size of the board and the installation pitch are not particularly important, but no more than 40-50 cm, as long as this is enough to prevent sheets or strips of mineral wool from falling through. Sometimes the board is packed tightly, without gaps, this strengthens the floor structure. This is what you should end up with:
  4. If it is impossible to crawl under the house, then a board is first placed under the joists, and then a waterproofing membrane is attached to the joists from inside the frame house, as shown in the photo.
  5. When the base for the insulation is ready, mineral wool is laid between the floor joists of the frame house. It is necessary to lay it tightly, the presence of voids is not allowed. Mineral wool is cut with a sharp knife, you can use a construction knife, but always a little longer than the required length, about 1 cm.
  6. For ease of installation, the distance between the logs is selected in advance, depending on the insulation, in our case, the width of the mineral wool slab is 60cm. This means that the distance between the joists should ideally be 58-59cm.
  7. The thickness of the insulation layer completely depends on the region where the frame house is being built, but on average it is 15 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the height of the floor joists of the frame house. As a rule, the thickness of all layers of mineral wool does not exceed, and sometimes even slightly less than the width of the board or timber from which they are made.
  8. An important point in laying mineral wool is that each layer must overlap the joints of the previous one, as shown in the photo. The overlap should be at least 15-20cm.
  9. On top of the mineral wool, inside the frame house on the logs, it is necessary to fix a vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside, and also serve as additional wind protection. In order for it to be airtight, the joints must be taped with double-sided tape, for example.
  10. Plywood, OSB board is laid over the vapor barrier membrane, or a board is sewn together, which will be the basis for further finishing.

It is worth noting that mineral wool itself is not a wind barrier, so the waterproofing and vapor barrier membrane must be stretched so that there is an overlap on the walls, excluding moisture and wind from getting between the wall and the floor of the frame house.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

In a frame house, as in any other, there are two types of walls - external, one side of which is located on the street, and internal, which are located entirely inside the house. So, it is necessary to insulate both of them.

The walls of a frame house can be insulated both from the inside and outside; this does not change the materials used and their quantity. We will look at insulation from the inside; everything is done from the outside in exactly the same way, only in a slightly different sequence.

Insulation of the external walls of the house

It is worth immediately noting that when covering a frame house outside and inside with your own hands, various materials are used; they may be different from those that I describe in this instruction. The order of actions may also differ, but in general, it turns out almost the same, as in the diagram. This approximate diagram, for example, instead of OSB boards, on one side you can pierce the sheathing with slats or a 25mm thick board. The board, as a rule, breaks through a certain distance - about 40cm between the axes, but it is worth remembering that in this case, the rigidity of the walls will suffer a little.

The process of insulating walls with mineral wool with your own hands is almost identical to the thermal insulation of the floor, and is carried out as follows:

  1. The outside of the frame is sheathed with OSB boards, with gaps between them specified by the manufacturer, usually 2-3mm. After installation, the gaps can be foamed. This is what it looks like from inside the house:
  2. Then, also on the outside, a waterproofing membrane is stretched, which will protect the mineral wool, the frame of the house, as well as OSB sheets from external moisture, on top of which external Finishing work, such as installing siding, for example. Some manufacturers make waterproofing materials with self-adhesive strips to make the joint tighter. If there are no such stripes, it is advisable to glue the joints with double-sided tape.
  3. From the inside of the frame house, between the frame posts, which, if you did everything correctly, are located at a distance of 58-59 cm from each other, sheets of mineral wool are tightly inserted.
  4. It is better to use mineral wool with a density of at least 35-50 kg/m3. Less dense insulation will settle or roll to the bottom, which will lead to the appearance of voids and cold bridges. As a rule, manufacturers write on the packaging what material can be used for.
  5. Just like with the floor, layers of mineral wool should be laid so as to overlap the previous joint of the sheets by at least 15-20cm. The total thickness of insulation depends on the climate zone, but the average value is also 15 cm.
  6. After all the insulation has been laid in the walls, it is necessary to pour polyurethane foam all small voids formed at the joints of boards and beams.
  7. A prerequisite for insulation with mineral wool is that from inside the house, over the insulation, it is necessary to stretch a vapor barrier membrane, which will protect the insulation from moisture coming from inside the house. On top of which, most often, the same OSB sheets are stuffed as on the outside, but you can also use boards, slats and similar materials, depending on the further finishing. An important point in installing a vapor barrier membrane is that internal corners it could not be tightened, and the vapor barrier completely followed the angle of the frame. Otherwise, in the future, it will be difficult to nail the trim at the corners.

It is worth noting that this entire procedure can be done in reverse, first stretch the vapor barrier membrane from the inside, then the internal cladding material, and the process of insulating the walls with mineral wool can be done from the outside.

Insulation of internal walls of a frame house

Distinctive features of insulation interior walls frame house are:


If it is not possible, or to soundproof internal partitions There are no strict requirements; it will be enough to use the same insulation as for external walls. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer can be much less.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a frame house

Insulation of the ceiling of a frame house is practically no different from other types of houses with wooden floors, and is one of the most critical aspects of thermal insulation of the entire house as a whole.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly insulate the ceiling of a frame house with mineral wool:


Because warm air has the ability to rise upward; if the ceiling or roof is not insulated correctly, it will leave the house maximum amount heat.

Insulating the roof of a frame house with your own hands

Very often, instead of the ceiling, and sometimes together with the ceiling, the roof of a frame house is also insulated with mineral wool. This is usually done in cases where the attic space is residential and heated.

The insulation technology is practically no different from the thermal insulation of the ceiling, with the exception that a waterproofing material must be stretched over the insulation to protect the insulation from the external aggressive environment.

This is how the thermal insulation layer of mineral wool on the roof of a frame house looks like in the diagram:

Here are a few features that will help make the DIY insulation process easier:


It is worth noting that the roof can also be insulated from the inside if it is fully assembled. But this is much more inconvenient, because you will have to come up with some kind of temporary fastenings, before stretching the vapor barrier material, so that the insulation does not fall out.

Features of using other types of insulation

All preparatory work in terms of thermal insulation of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, they are no different. The differences, and even then minor ones, are in the installation of the insulation itself, which will be discussed further.

Now let's look at the main differences between insulation with other materials, which can also be used as thermal insulation for frame houses.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene (foam) and EPS

If you dig around on the Internet, you will find a lot of controversy about foam insulation not only for wooden houses, but also for others. Indeed, polystyrene foam for frame houses is not the most the best option, although it will be the warmest, with the same thickness of insulation, and why is a separate topic for discussion.

The process of insulation with polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam is practically no different, so they can be combined. Here are some features of expanded polystyrene and insulation based on it:

  1. Polystyrene foam does not always fit between the joists as tightly as mineral wool, so all cracks and voids must be removed using polyurethane foam or similar materials.
  2. Expanded polystyrene – flammable material, this must be remembered and even potential sources of combustion should not come into contact with it.
  3. When using polystyrene foam, it is necessary to take care of improved ventilation, because this material practically does not allow air to pass through.
  4. Despite the fact that polystyrene foam practically does not allow or absorb moisture, it cannot be left as the only waterproofing for the house. Waterproofing and vapor barrier layers must still be present, because they protect not only the insulation, but also the wood itself from which the frame of the house is assembled.
  5. Expanded polystyrene is very fond of rodents who make their moves in it, so you need to take care that they do not get to it.

These are the basic rules and differences in the use of polystyrene foam boards and insulation based on them. Otherwise, everything is done exactly the same as in the case of insulation with mineral wool.

Features of insulating a frame house with ecowool

Ecowool - relatively new material for insulating not only frame houses. It can be used as insulation in almost all areas of private construction, including frame construction.

  1. Despite the fact that ecowool insulation can be done without special equipment, I still would not recommend doing so. Firstly, because with the help of special equipment ecowool is applied more evenly and blows out all the voids. Secondly, manually prepared ecowool has less good characteristics, both in terms of shrinkage and thermal insulation.
  2. Ecowool absorbs moisture very well, so waterproofing and vapor barrier materials, as well as their installation, must be approached with special responsibility.
  3. It is necessary to apply ecowool with a reserve, because it will shrink over time, up to 10-15%.
  4. When applying it, you must use personal protective equipment.

It is worth noting that when insulating a frame house with ecowool, it is necessary to hire responsible and highly qualified specialists who will take into account all its features during installation.

Insulation of a frame house with expanded clay

This insulation technology is currently used extremely rarely, because there is now a huge selection of materials with much better characteristics, but still I will tell you a little about it.

  1. Expanded clay in dry form, as insulation, can be used either to insulate the floor or ceiling, and it can also be used to insulate interfloor ceilings. Using it in walls is problematic, and, in my opinion, not justified.
  2. Very often, expanded clay insulation is combined, for example, with sawdust, ash, etc.
  3. The difference between expanded clay insulation is that the floor and ceiling, underneath the joists, must be pierced either with a board at the joint or with some kind of plywood materials.
  4. It is better to use expanded clay of a small fraction, thereby there will be fewer voids.

In addition to those described by me, there are many more materials and methods for insulating frame houses with your own hands. But they are all so similar that describing each of them does not make much sense.

Construction frame structures became popular due to its simplicity. The process comes down to elementary actions, something like collecting objects from a Lego constructor. Insulation of a frame house is also done with your own hands (this is not a step-by-step instruction, but ordinary recommendations).

You need to think about what materials the insulation will be made from; in some cases it is advisable to save money, for example, if the house is intended exclusively for living in the summer.

For all-season buildings, insulation must be carried out according to all the rules, and the highest quality materials should be used.

Selection of materials

One of the main parameters that a material must meet is its elasticity. Polystyrene foam and related products may not be suitable. The fact is that the frame elements (if we're talking about about a wood frame) will change their size due to changes in temperature and humidity of the surrounding air. In this case, gaps will appear between the bars and the insulation panels, which will affect the overall thermal insulation of the house.

And the elastic material will fill the entire space between the beams.

For metal frame houses, you can use any materials, for example, polystyrene foam.

Basalt wool

The most common material. It is obtained by melting rock basalt. Excellent heat retention and sound insulating properties. The downside is the change in properties when absorbing moisture. Therefore, you need to carefully protect it using special films.

Basalt materials are the most fire safe and can withstand heating temperatures of up to 1000 degrees.

When purchasing, it is better to focus on the material in the form of slabs; the packaging should indicate that the insulation is intended for walls, otherwise after 2-3 years the basalt panels will shrink and cold air will penetrate through the top.


Ecowool

This type of insulation is made from cellulose. There are two methods of insulation using ecowool:

Using special equipment, cotton wool particles are mixed with drops of water, this mixture is directed into the space between the cells of the frame. In this case, a dense coating is formed that fills the entire area of ​​the walls;

The dry method consists of pouring ecowool particles into the space between the wall panels, after which the mass is compacted.

The result is layers of insulation that are not afraid of changes in temperature or humidity, therefore, additional protection different films are not needed.

The cost of the material and prices for the work performed are the only ones negative sides this technology.

Glass wool

Produced by melting glass. Sold, as a rule, in the form of rolls. It is distinguished by decent heat-insulating properties and resistance to fire, and does not emit toxic substances when burning.

Be sure to check when purchasing that the material is intended specifically for walls.

Bulk materials

This type includes slag, expanded clay, and sawdust. They are rarely used, as there are more effective insulation materials.

Sometimes it is used for thermal insulation of the floor, as the first layer, after which other types of insulation are laid, in particular, expanded clay, which does not absorb moisture, does not burn, but its heat-insulating properties are not too high.

Tool you will need for the job

Insulating a frame house with your own hands does not require any complex devices or devices. To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

  1. Roulette;
  2. Marker (pencil, chalk);
  3. Tools for cutting metal – grinder, electric scissors;
  4. A large knife for cutting insulation material, you can use a homemade one made from an old hacksaw;
  5. Screwdriver for fastening sheathing elements;
  6. Construction stapler for fixing plastic film (if you don’t have one, you can use soft wire);
  7. You may need other tools - a hair dryer, a hammer, screwdrivers, a wood jigsaw and others.

In addition, you need to prepare a stepladder and a long ladder for working on the roof.


Carrying out work - floor insulation

Dirt is removed from the insulated surfaces of the frame, damp areas you need to dry it with a hairdryer, fill the gaps in the structure with foam.

If electrical wiring is supposed to be placed inside the walls, then this should be taken care of in advance. The cable should be routed according to the wiring plan, cutting out the necessary technological holes in the ceilings, securing distribution boxes, marking the position of switches and sockets.

If the house will be installed: heating boiler, plumbing, etc. additional devices, then all the holes necessary for them (for pipelines, drains Wastewater, eyeliner) is better to do in advance.

First you need to start waterproofing the floor. To do this, a special film is attached, and each subsequent film should overlap the previous one by 5-10 cm. It is adjusted using a stapler.

Thermal insulation material is cut into strips or squares, depending on the shape of the cells between the boards (joists), the pieces must fit tightly into place. Considering that standard width sheet of mineral wool - 60 cm, then the width of the cell should be 58-59 cm. After laying the thermal insulation, cover it on top with a vapor barrier film.


The thickness of the insulation layer may vary. It is necessary to focus on the region of residence and the required degree of insulation: the more low temperature in winter, the thicker the floor will be and the more layers of mineral wool need to be laid. If several layers are laid, they should overlap the joints of the previous ones by about 15 cm.

After laying the thermal insulation, cover it on top with a vapor barrier film. For better tightness, you can seal the joints with double-sided tape. It will not only be good protection from moisture, but also additional protection from wind.

After this, you can begin laying plywood or OSB board material on the floor; this layer will form the basis for the finished floor.

Insulation of frame walls panel house with your own hands - a little more difficult than the floor.

The technology is approximately the same as for floor insulation.

The wall is sheathed on one side, for example, with plywood. There should be gaps between the plates - approximately 2-3 mm. These gaps can be filled with polyurethane foam, and then the excess protruding above the plane can be cut off.

After this you can start stretching waterproofing film, to protect both the frame and the house itself from external moisture. It is recommended to glue the joints with tape (some types of film have self-adhesive strips at the ends).


Now you should lay the insulation boards, if a distance of about 60 cm is maintained between the boards, then the sheets will be laid tightly, if not, then you will have to temporarily fix them (you can, for example, stretch a strip of tape along the entire length of the wall).

The average thickness of the insulation is 15 cm, however, if necessary, several layers can be used to overlap those previously laid at the joints, by approximately 10-15 cm.

A vapor barrier film is stretched over the insulation to protect against moisture that will come from inside the house. You need to carefully stretch the film on the corners, following the contours as accurately as possible, otherwise difficulties may arise later with the final finishing.

After fixing the vapor barrier, OSB panels or plywood are nailed onto which the finishing elements will be attached in the future. Decoration Materials(wallpaper, tiles, lining). To save money, if you definitely decide to finish with clapboard or similar materials, you can use boards instead of sheet materials; they can be nailed at a certain distance from each other.

Advice. Finishing of external walls can be done not only from inside the house, but also from the outside. That is, first they nail interior panels, and all further operations for laying wool are carried out from the street.

This can be convenient if the house is not very large.

Insulation of internal walls is needed, most of all, for sound insulation, so there is no need to install film.

For this purpose, soundproofing materials are used, this can be mineral wool, foam boards, or various combined materials.

Insulating a frame house with your own hands is a responsible process, but when working with the ceiling, it is also not very convenient. It is best to carry out the work while the roof is not yet completely ready, this will make it more convenient to carry out the work.

The rules are simple: a vapor barrier membrane is again used, it is stretched from the inside of the house and attached to the ceiling beams.

Sheet material (plywood, OSB) or boards are installed on it (a distance of about 40 cm is maintained between the boards).

Mineral wool is laid on top, following the same rules as in other cases. Overlapping previous joints (with allowance). It is important to cover the entire ceiling, along with the planes that are located above the walls.

If attic space is not heated, then a vapor barrier film will not be needed. Can be sheathed with sheet material.

Insulation of the ceiling is important, since if insulation is not done correctly, warm air will very quickly escape outside the house through the top.


Roof insulation

It has great importance, if the attic will be heated and used as a living space. In other cases, work is not necessary, or insulation can be done to a minimum.

There are a number of subtleties that can help in your work:

The most convenient way is to insulate from the outside: the insulation is easier to install, the film is easier to stretch.

Immediately after installation truss structure It is recommended to attach a vapor barrier film, rather than nailing sheet material or boards.

Using a ladder, you can climb from the outside to the roof slopes and lay out the insulation.

Stretch the film on top and install the sheathing, and then the roof itself.

Features of insulation with various materials

In addition to mineral wool and analogues, they are used different kinds insulation materials.

Foam plastic and similar materials

Polystyrene foam is difficult to lay, avoiding gaps between it and wooden frame, so you will have to carefully foam all defects. This kind of material does not allow air to pass through, so you need to carefully consider the ventilation of your home. Polyethylene films it still needs to be used, although polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, the vapor barrier membrane should protect the frame of the house.

Finally, polystyrene foam is very popular with rodents, who make labyrinths in it; this must be taken into account.

Ecowool

Although this material allows you to apply it manually, without special equipment, experts do not recommend doing this.

Ecowool shrinks up to about 15% over time, so you will have to make some reserve when applying it.

When applied manually, it is almost impossible to achieve the same quality and final heat-insulating properties as when using special tools.

Expanded clay

It is often used to insulate either the floor or the ceiling; it is possible to insulate floors between floors. A special feature is the need for a good base on which the insulation is laid out. There should be no gaps, otherwise the expanded clay will fall out.

For the best effect, expanded clay is used in the form of the most crushed fraction, in combination with materials such as sawdust. In this case, all voids will be filled.

Finally

So, insulating a frame house with your own hands is not so difficult; you don’t need step-by-step instructions for the work. All work on all types of floors is carried out approximately the same way.