Most often, laying tiles on the floor is entrusted to professional tilers and they do it for good reason. After all, the durability and beauty of the coating greatly depend on the quality of installation, and the work process itself is very complex. However, even a beginner can lay even tiles on a fairly level base with his own hands using the standard “seam to seam” pattern. The main thing is to choose the right mounting solutions and strictly follow the technology. Our step-by-step instruction with photos and a selection of useful videos. This theory on laying tiles will also be useful to those who need to monitor and accept the work of tilers.

Materials, tools and equipment

Here is a list of materials and tools you will need during the process of laying, cutting and grouting floor tiles.

Tools and equipment:

• Tape measure, metal ruler and corner;
• Construction pencil for marking;
• Construction level and rule;
• Construction mixer or drill with a stirrer attachment;
• Tile cutter or electric tile cutter;
• Core or glass cutter (needed for curvilinear cutting of tiles);
• Tile nippers (for cutting curved);
• File (for sanding cut edges);
• Putty knife;
• Notched trowel (6-8 mm);
• Master OK;
• Rubber spatula for grouting joints;
• Rubber mallet;
• Bucket with sponge and rag;
• Knee pads and household items gloves.

Materials

In addition to the tile itself with a 10% margin, you will need:

• Tile adhesive that matches the base material (concrete, wood, old tiles, etc.), as well as the characteristics of the tile itself;
• Crosses of the desired size;
• Grout the desired color;
• Primer.

Step 1. Preparing the base

First you need to prepare the base so that it is level, clean and dry. It is preferable to lay the tiles on a concrete screed, but if desired, you can also lay them on old tiles or wood, chipboard (or other similar material). However, keep in mind that installing tiles over old cladding will increase the height of the final floor.

To lay tiles on a concrete screed you need: remove possible roughness with a scraper, vacuum the floor, wash with an alkaline cleaner, then cover with a layer of primer (preferably) and wait 2-4 hours until the floor is completely dry. Further, if the concrete base is uneven (deviations of more than 5 mm per 2 linear meters), then it must be filled with some kind of leveling compound and wait until it dries.

To lay tiles on old tiles you need:

• To improve the adhesion of old tiles to glue, sandpaper or a sander is used to go over it;
• Then the coating is vacuumed and washed, if necessary treated with a primer (drying takes 2-4 hours) and covered with a self-leveling mixture.

Attention! Laying tiles on the system heated floors, turn off the heating 1-2 days before starting work. You can turn on the heating or underfloor heating only 2-3 days after grouting the joints. For styling ceramic tiles On a “warm floor” you need to use glue with a high content of elastic polymers, which will prevent temperature deformation of the base.

Step 2: Drawing the Markup

Once the floor is dry, you can start drawing markings. There are many ways to draw markings, but they all have the same goal:

• The floor must be marked so that, firstly, the cut tiles are not placed in plain sight; and secondly, as little pruning as possible was required. Ideally, the tiles should be cut by a third or a maximum of half.

So, for example, the markings can be constructed in such a way that entire tiles are placed at the entrance, along the axes of the window opening or, say, at the threshold balcony door. In our article we will look at one of the most popular ways of laying tiles on the floor - along two perpendicular axes from the center of the doorway.

So, draw a line from the center of the threshold to the center of the opposite wall using a cord or laser level. Further along this line, begin laying a row of tiles with crosses “dry”. After placing the last intact tile, draw a line along its outer edge so that you have two strictly perpendicular vertical lines as in the diagram below. It is advisable to use a square to make sure that the corners are right at 90 degrees.

In the corner of the perpendicular we will glue the first tile, and from it we will lay the first row (along the horizontal line).

Step 3. Laying the first tile and first row

Dilute the glue in a bucket according to the manufacturer's instructions, apply it with a spatula to one of the corners of the intersection and at the same time to the area of ​​​​several tiles of the future first row, slightly going beyond its limits. Then smooth out the glue with a notched trowel, holding it at a 60-degree angle. Try to always keep the comb at the same angle so that the glue is of the same thickness.

Attention! If the tile has a size of more than 30x30 cm or 20x30 cm, then the glue must be applied to the tile itself in a thin layer (apply the glue to the tile and immediately remove it almost completely with the same spatula). For very large formats, the layer of adhesive on the tile can be thicker and thinned out with a notched trowel as shown in the photo below.

Then glue the second tile in the same way and level it with the first using a mallet and a rule. Make sure the tiles are level by applying building level directly onto two tiles at once as shown in the photo below.

Check the height of each laid tile with the previous one. If necessary, remove excess or, conversely, add glue

Only when both tiles are aligned, insert crosses along the corners of the tiles and into the seam.

Now continue gluing the tiles in the same way until the entire first row is complete. Go over it again using the rule and check the evenness with a level.

A few rules and useful tips on installation

• The subfloor and tiles must always be dry.
• Try to apply glue to no more than 1 linear meter of facing area at a time.
• Glue that has stood for more than 30-40 minutes becomes unsuitable for use (with the exception of adhesives from some manufacturers). Therefore, try to mix the glue a little at a time.
• To prevent the glue from drying to the comb, constantly soak it in water.
• The crosses must be removed before the glue dries.
• Lean your knees on laid tiles not advisable, as this may disrupt its flatness.
• The tiles should be taken from different boxes, so the slight difference in color will not be noticeable. Before starting work, be sure to check that the tone indicated on all boxes matches.
• On the back of the tile there is always a manufacturer's logo, by which you can understand where the tile is top and bottom. Sometimes tiles have a special masonry orientation indicator, which, for convenience, can be additionally marked on the end of the tile with a pencil.
• Make sure to remove excess glue before it dries. It is best to remove it from the surface of the tile with a cloth soaked in solvent.

An alternative way to mark and lay the first row

Don't want to bother with markup? Then proceed the old fashioned way - start laying tiles from the most visible corner. If you are laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen, then you can start laying from the corner of the wall opposite the set, then a row of cut tiles will fall exactly under it.

More useful information You can learn how to mark and lay tiles on the floor with your own hands from this video.

Step 4. Laying the remaining rows, cutting tiles

Hurray, the first row is ready and now, using it as a guide, we can lay the second row of cut tiles (see picture below), and then all the rest.

• Attention! The first row is made up of only whole tiles, cut tiles are placed later (in the diagram the “cut” row is designated as row 2).

How to cut the last floor tile adjacent to the wall? The first step is to determine its cutting line: place it on the already glued penultimate tile, put another tile on it and move it towards the wall, but not reaching the wall at a distance of one seam. Along the outer edge of this tile, draw a line on the underlying tile. This line is the cutting line.

You can cut the tiles different ways and devices. Ideally, you should use a manual tile cutter or an electric tile cutter (see photo above), if you don’t have such a tool, then use a grinder. However, if the floor tiles are ceramic and not very thick (up to 9 mm), then you can use the old construction trick and cut them... with an ordinary glass cutter as shown in this video.

How to cut tiles curved? Apply masking tape to the tile you are cutting to prevent the decorative layer from nicking. Then use a pencil to mark a rounded cutting line, say for a pipe. Next, drill several holes along the marked rounded line using a carbide drill bit (also suitable for porcelain tiles). Finally, using wire cutters, pliers, and special tile crimpers, carefully break off the unwanted portion. Sand the cut area with a file.

Once you have covered the entire floor, make sure all the crosses are removed and leave the covering to dry for 24 hours.

You can learn how to cut floor tiles with a grinder in an L-shape, for example, under the projection of a ventilation duct, from this video.

Step 5. Grouting the joints

After 24 hours, you can start grouting the joints. To do this, first lightly wet the seams with a spray bottle or just a wet rag to improve the adhesion of the grout, and then dilute the grout mixture.

Holding a rubber trowel at an angle, apply joint compound to approximately 1 square meter. meter of floor and distribute it so that all seams are completely filled. But be careful and do not try to force the grout into the seams too much.

After 15-30 minutes, remove excess grout with a damp sponge. In the same way, continue to grout the seams on other areas of the floor, with the exception of the joints along the walls. An hour after grouting the entire floor surface, it can be washed clean using water or mild cleaning agents.

After a week, the seams can be additionally coated with sealant.

Attention! Walking on a freshly laid tiled floor is not recommended for the first 2-3 days, ideally 7 days.

It’s unrealistic to just pick up and start gluing ceramic tiles on a wall. Firstly, laying always starts with at least 2 horizontal rows. Secondly, the surface of the wall itself must first be prepared, leveled, strengthened and various debris removed.

The final result of covering a wall with decor from the collection
The surface for laying tiles can be leveled or prepared as follows:

• Plaster the surface along the beacons with a cement-sand mortar if the walls are generally crooked or not finished in any way.
• Putty the walls with putty if old plaster normal strength, but there are minor irregularities on its surface.
• If the surface is made of plasterboard, then a fiberglass mesh is mounted on it and the entire area of ​​the wall along the mesh is puttied with cement putty or tile adhesive.
• If the wall is plastered with gypsum putty, then to increase adhesion with tile adhesive, sweep the entire surface with a brush or broom, after which a penetrating primer, betogrunt, betocontact or their equivalent is applied with a roller to the entire area of ​​the wall.

Attention! If you plan to prime with a penetrating primer, it is imperative to sweep the surface from dust. If this is not done, the wet dust will curl up and roll over the surface with a roller, resulting in crystallization - a thin film that does not increase adhesion, but on the contrary, can make the glue not stick to the wall at all.

After all the necessary steps to level the surface, it is necessary to accurately determine the future location of the tiles on the wall itself. To do this, you first need to find the highest point of the floor at the bottom of the wall. If the floor is not yet tiled, a long bubble level is used along the perimeter of the room at the base of the walls and, thus, determine the area where the screed is most raised. At this point, make 1 mark on the surface of the wall. Next, from the 1st mark, measure about 10-15 mm up the wall and make a second mark - this will be the future zero.

Leveling the surface of the wall on which you plan to lay the tiles
At the second stage, accurately measure the height of the facing material that is planned to be placed on the wall using a tape measure. For example, the height of the tile is 30 cm, which means that this distance is measured from the previously found zero point up along the surface of the wall and a mark is placed. After that, a long bubble level is applied to the resulting mark, it is placed in an even horizontal position and an even line along the level is drawn along the entire length of the wall.

All ceramic wall tiling will be done from the line described above. However, to prevent the tile from sliding down under its own weight, a stop must be temporarily mounted along a continuous line to the wall. You can use a flat surface as a support edged board, remaining unnecessary metallic profile or lining panel. Temporary installation of the stop to the wall is carried out using ordinary metal dowels.

Determining the location of the future vertical cutting row

The wall is prepared, the stop for the tiles is installed, but before you start laying the tiles on the wall, you still need to decide where the vertical row of not whole tiles will be located. To do this, you need to measure the width of the tiles and the total length of the wall. The length of the wall is divided by the width of the tiles and it is determined how many complete vertical rows of tiles will fit on the wall. This will leave a small distance. If this distance is less than half the width of 1 tile, then such a narrow wedge on the wall will look ugly. In this case, two vertical wedges are made on the wall at each corner. If the distance described above exceeds half the width of 1 tile, then such a vertical row of cut tiles is placed in the corner that is least accessible to the eye.

Advice! The area on the wall surface that is least noticeable is behind the door to the room or on the side of the entrance in the opposite corner.

To lay tiles on the wall you need the following tools:

• A deep bucket or similar container for making glue;
• Perforator with mixer attachment;
• A comb spatula and a small flat spatula;
• Level and square;
• Rubber mallet;
• Tile cutter or angle grinder (grinder) for cutting, depending on the thickness and strength of the facing material.

Making working glue

• Pour 3 liters of water into a bucket or other container;
• Pour dry tile adhesive powder into the water so that it forms a small slide above the water;
• Mix the entire substance with a hammer drill with a mixing attachment in drilling mode until a homogeneous thick mass is obtained;
• Leave the resulting adhesive mass at rest for 10 minutes, then mix the whole substance again.

The process of laying tiles with tile adhesive on the wall

First of all, the wall is covered with solid tiles, and cutting is done closer to the end of the work. The prepared working tile adhesive is applied to the wall with a spatula or trowel and spread to create a layer of equal thickness using a comb. Then adhesive composition applied to the back side of the tile and distributed in the same way. The tile is applied to the wall, resting against the mounted stop, and pressed lightly. In a similar way, several more ceramic tiles are placed nearby. After this, a level is placed vertically on the first glued tile and with blows of a rubber mallet it is given an even vertical position. Next, the level is applied to the entire row of 3-4 tiles horizontally, and the rest of the tiles are adjusted to the first tile aligned to the level. After leveling a small row of tiles, PVC crosses are placed in the joints between the tiles.

On the first day, it is advisable to lay out the maximum area from solid parts of the facing material. On the second day, first of all, a vertical row of cut tiles is laid out on the glue. After this, the entire lining is brought to ceiling. On the third day, you can safely dismantle the stop nailed to the wall and begin finishing the lowest horizontal row. Before gluing the very bottom row of tiles, you must first cut and prepare a dozen small strips of length masking tape and prick out wooden block more chips of different sizes.

The sequence of work when finishing the bottom row is similar. The glue is applied and distributed on the wall and back side tiles, the tiles are applied to the wall and leveled using a level and a mallet. However, under the lowest horizontal edge of the tile, you will need to select and insert wooden chips, while crosses are first installed in the upper section of the tile. In principle, wooden chips are enough to temporarily fix the tiles on the wall until the glue hardens, but to be sure, the glued and exposed tiles of the bottom row are additionally fixed with the tiles from the top row with strips of wide tape.

Aligning rows of tiles using PVC crosses

Grouting joints

A few days after the wall is completely finished, using a knife and pliers, PVC crosses are removed from all tile seams. Also, the fixing tape and the lower wood chips are removed from the bottom tile. Go along all the seams between the tiles with a sharp knife blade to remove excess glue and, if possible, deepen the seams.

The next step is to pour about one and a half glasses of water into a small bucket and add dry grout for the joints. The entire resulting mass is mixed with a spatula until there are no lumps. Next, the prepared grout is applied sequentially to all cleaned and prepared tile joints with a rubber or silicone spatula. After filling the joints, you should wait about 30 minutes for the grout to harden a little, after which you should go over the entire surface of the tiles with a dry cloth and sponge.

Attention! It was described above how to work with grout on cement based. If the cladding is done in a bathroom or any other room with high humidity, it is recommended to use grout based on epoxy or furan resin. In this case, you need to specifically study the manufacturer's instructions indicated on the container with grout.

The last stage is the most important!

We invite all our acquaintances, friends and relatives, and show them our new finishing in the bathroom and boldly declare to everyone: “I did it all myself with my own hands!”

In places such as the kitchen, toilet and bathroom, ceramic tiles are often used to decorate the walls. Tiles are one of the most popular building materials, and this is understandable. It is easy to clean and performs well in damp environments. But when using ceramic tiles, there is a drawback - the cost of its installation is high, and can reach (and sometimes exceed) the cost of the tile itself. There is a way out of this problem - laying tiles on the wall with your own hands. In this article we will talk about how to lay tiles on a wall, as well as all the necessary preparations.

Preparing the wall for laying tiles

Regardless of whether expensive or cheap tiles are laid on the wall, the quality of the finished surface will largely depend on how well the rough base is prepared. With a perfectly flat base, the process of gluing tiles to walls occurs many times faster, which is why hired craftsmen often increase the price for their work if there are large irregularities on the walls. To save time and nerves, take the time to Special attention all stages preceding the installation of tiles.

So, preparing a wall for laying tiles begins with checking its evenness and, if necessary, leveling it. Using a long rule and a water level, the walls are checked in several places for the presence of large gaps, blockages and differences. Small unevenness on the wall surface (up to 1-2 cm) can be leveled with tile adhesive directly during installation, but you need to understand that this requires some experience. In addition, the time for tiling work with this approach increases significantly. So for a beginner the best option There will be high-quality preparation of the base, since it is much easier to do it yourself.

As a rule, leveling is carried out using plastering, but there is also a common method in which the walls are leveled using the construction of plasterboard structures, ideally flat surface which the tiles are installed.

We discussed the process of self-plastering a wall using beacons in, which is required reading before finishing. It is only worth noting that in wet rooms it is not recommended to use gypsum-based compounds for plastering. This is due to the ability of gypsum to absorb water, which can lead to the formation of fungus on the walls.

If the surface of the wall is sufficiently smooth and does not require plaster, it must be cleaned. To do this, use a spatula to clean the wall down to the plaster layer, completely removing the remnants of old paint, whitewash, exfoliated pieces of plaster, and repairing all chips and cracks. All these defects are covered with ordinary tile adhesive until a smooth surface is obtained. The presence of crumbling areas or areas with old paint or whitewash significantly impairs the contact of the tile adhesive with the wall.

After leveling the wall, it is primed. The primer, absorbed into the plaster layer, improves the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the base, binds all dust, and also prevents the appearance of fungus on the wall surface. The primer is applied to the wall with a regular roller or wide brush in several layers, allowing it to be completely absorbed into the plaster.

For better contact wall tiles often use special compounds with the addition of coarse river sand or granite chips. This composition - concrete contact - creates a rough structure on the flat surface of the wall, which contributes to better adhesion of the coating to the base. If it is impossible to purchase concrete contact, it is necessary to make notches on the plaster so that the adhesive composition is better fixed to the wall.

Choosing ceramic tiles for walls

The selection of tiles is an important step not only from the point of view of the design approach. It so happens that the lower the price of the tile, the worse it is geometric shape, which in turn leads to difficulties when installing it. When laying tiles irregular shape It is difficult to get identical seams and a smooth surface without differences. This also leads to the fact that when using such a material it is difficult to achieve a thin seam at the joints of the tiles. Therefore, if the size of the joints is of great importance to you, choose either foreign samples or domestic tiles in the above-average price range. The photo below shows the differences in the shape of tiles from one pack:

Close attention should also be paid to the format of the tiles. Laying large-format tiles alone will be quite problematic. In addition, if you lack experience, you may encounter overuse of material, which, given the high cost of such tiles, will lead to unjustified expenses. For beginner tilers, it will be most convenient to work with small and medium format tiles.

In addition to size, the shape of the ceramic is also important. When choosing its type, you need to rely on the design project of the future room and the need for trimming. For example, when using wide rectangular tiles in a narrow room, you may encounter either the need to glue small fragments in the corner, or the need to double the number of tiles to finish a given wall.

All these nuances are individual for each specific room and project, so there is no universal solution for all rooms.

When choosing tiles, it often happens that the option you like is intended for laying on the floor. It is not prohibited to lay floor tiles on a wall, however, such tiles are often made of porcelain stoneware, which is many times stronger than ordinary ceramic tiles and is more difficult to cut and drill. This must be taken into account, since when laying wall tiles, much more cutting is done than when laying.

The last piece of advice when choosing tiles is that when purchasing, you need to check the lot numbers on each pack of material and purchase tiles of only one article and lot number, as this will protect you from differences in the color scheme of one or another lot.

Tile layout

An important point in laying any ceramic tile is its layout. IN modern renovation It is important to avoid the formation of narrow undercuts and tile residues along the edges. To do this, precise markings and layout are made in advance either on paper or in a computer program. The idea is that there should be equal parts of the tiles on all sides along the edges, and the solid elements should be in the center. This layout is considered the only correct one.

Tools and materials for laying tiles

The main device needed to work with tiles is a tile cutter. The lack of a tile cutter is a barrier for many craftsmen who want to lay tiles with their own hands. High-quality tools are usually expensive, but today there are many services and stores that offer all the necessary tools for rent.

To lay tiles on the wall, you can use either a manual or electric tile cutter. An electric tile cutter is convenient because it does not require special skills to use - it works like a regular one. a circular saw, only instead saw blade has a diamond wheel. Dust in such a device settles in a water bath. The advantage of an electric tile cutter is the speed and quality of cutting even small pieces of tile, as well as the ability to cut tiles at 45 degrees. The disadvantage is the need for maintenance, cleaning and washing after each working day.

In addition to the tile cutter, the main hand tools The tiler's tool is a notched trowel - a trowel, with which the adhesive is applied to the tiles and walls, and also distributed over its surface. The convenience lies in the fact that using the teeth on a spatula, a uniform thickness of the tile adhesive seam is achieved. The teeth come in different sizes, so a different size is selected for each specific case. For convenience, we have compiled a table to help you quickly determine the size of the notched trowel for your needs:

In addition to the spatula, you will need the following tools:

Before directly laying the tiles, they are sorted to identify defects, tiles of uneven shape, differing from others in size and shades of color. This procedure is carried out for both cheap and expensive tiles. High-quality, smooth tiles are used in places that are visible. Tiles with imperfections or minor defects are allowed to be trimmed or used in hidden places.

Cutting and trimming tiles

If the room has smooth walls and correct sizes, experienced craftsmen tiles are cut for all walls at once in accordance with a pre-designed layout. This is done in order to save time and not have to cut the tiles after gluing each subsequent row.

If you are not sure that you will be able to get the dimensions, taking into account all the errors and the thickness of the seams, we recommend cutting locally to avoid mistakes.

Laying ceramic tiles on the wall

The process begins with marking the room. As for the horizontal layout, it is determined by a pre-prepared layout diagram. All you have to do is accurately cut the tiles according to the dimensions. When marking vertically, there may be several options.

As a rule, laying wall tiles begins not from the floor itself, but from the second row; this is done to obtain a perfectly even row, which is impossible to do when laying from an uneven floor. But often the layout is made so that the beginning of the tile is at the same level as the top edge of the bathtub; in this case, the starting row is measured taking into account the size of the bathtub.

There can be many options for tile layouts, so in the simplest version, marking the second row is done as follows: set aside a distance from the floor equal to the thickness of the floor tiles and the adhesive layer (6-8 mm if there is a flat floor) and take this point as the level of the future finished floor. A distance equal to the sum of the heights of the wall tiles and the seam between the floor and wall tiles is set aside from the finished floor level. At the resulting point, a line is drawn around the entire perimeter of the room. It will correspond to the bottom border of the seam between the tiles of the first and second row.

The first row of tiles will be glued at the very last resort after laying all the wall and floor tiles. In case of an error in the calculations, this row can be trimmed without damage appearance, since the joint at the bottom is filled with sealant and will be invisible.

Along the border of the marked line, a metal profile is mounted on the wall, on which the first working row of tiles will be installed, and which will prevent them from sliding down. After the glue has hardened, the profile can be dismantled.

After marking and preparation, begin mixing the tile adhesive. Here you need to pay attention to two points - consistency and quantity. The consistency of the glue is chosen so that the ridges, after spreading with a notched trowel, do not spread, but are not too thick. The composition should be elastic and easy to apply to the wall. The amount of solution is selected in such a way that its lifetime does not expire before it is completely used. The lifetime of the solution is indicated on the packaging; after this time, the glue loses its elasticity and dries out. If you do not have much experience in laying tiles, we recommend mixing a small amount of glue first, then the required amount will come with experience.

The tiles are laid, starting from the corner of the wall, on an even layer of adhesive, which is applied to the wall with a notched trowel. If there are smooth walls, the adhesive should only be applied to the wall. If there are unevennesses, glue is applied both to the wall and to the tile itself with a regular spatula and leveled with a notched trowel. Modern technology The production of ceramic tiles does not require that they be wetted before laying. On the contrary, this can lead to a violation of its correct connection to the wall.

In order to maintain parallelism between the planes of the tile and the wall in the horizontal direction (in the vertical this parameter is controlled by a bubble level) in the first row, you need to install the so-called beacon tiles. To do this, a whole tile or any scrap is temporarily mounted on the opposite side of the wall. After that, a long rule is applied to the first and beacon tiles. If there are gaps between the rule and the plane of the tiles, then their position is adjusted until the gaps are completely eliminated. In parallel with this, the vertical installation of the tiles should be controlled.

After gluing the first ceramic element, the second one is mounted using the same principle, checking the correctness of its installation using the rule and level, not forgetting, in addition to parallelism, to control the horizontal level of gluing. After this, the beacon tile can be dismantled, and control can be carried out using two already installed tiles.

At the junction between two tiles, it is necessary to install plastic crosses to adjust the gap between them. Crosses must also be installed under the tiles to simulate a seam between the current row and the first row, which will be installed at the very end. In addition to the seams, crosses are installed in the crosshairs between the tiles to form correct junctions. They should be removed immediately after the tile adhesive begins to set and dry. If you wait until completely dry glue, removing the plastic from the seams can be a challenge.

The entire further installation process is repeated in the same way. It is important at each stage to control the vertical and horizontal installation of the tiles and adjust its position if necessary.

After laying all the wall tiles and drying the glue, they proceed to cleaning the seams and filling them with grout. To do this, it is convenient to use a small spatula. The grout is rubbed into the joint cavity, distributed evenly and allowed to dry a little. After a few minutes, the grout is carefully rubbed with a moistened sponge until a smooth, even seam is formed. After this, it is left to dry completely for about a day. After a day, all excess grout is wiped off the tiles with a wet cloth. It is important not to leave the grout on the tiles for several days, as it will become more and more difficult to remove it every day.

The seam between the floor tiles and the wall is usually filled not with grout, but with sealant. To do this, choose either white sanitary sealant, or sealant in the color of the grout. This is done in order to compensate for the thermal expansion of the tiles and to avoid cracking of the grout in the joints. This is especially true when present in a screed. The video below shows how easy it is to make a neat seam between the wall and the floor using sealant.

As a rule, after laying tiles with their own hands, many admit that their fears were in vain, because the whole process is not particularly difficult. A good help in this matter would be to use quality instrument And good preparation rough surface.

Finally, we invite you to watch a video in which the master describes in detail the process of laying ceramic wall tiles:

What mistakes are made when laying

Incorrectly selected tiles

When shopping for tiles, people are often guided by two factors that influence the final choice - design and pricing policy. But having decided on a purchase, they do not check the tiles for identity. This is a serious mistake that can result in uneven joints between tiles, tiles of different sizes and shades. Before purchasing, you need to check the dimensions of the tiles. It is better to take several tiles of the same batch from different boxes and compare them with each other. The ceramic material must be the same around the perimeter and height of the product.

Buying glazed ceramics

The bathroom is a place where there should be increased safety. When coming out after a shower, a person should not slide on the floor, like on an ice skating rink. Therefore, glazed tiles will not work; you should buy unglazed material. Safety must be paramount, as falling onto a ceramic floor can result in serious injury to a person.

Choosing the wrong mixture for laying tiles

Laying tiles on a bathroom floor requires correct selection mixtures for fixing tiles. With the current choice of materials, the need for cement mortar for styling is missing, manufacturers offer good mixtures, which will facilitate the process of laying tiles on the floor. For the bathroom and toilet, they buy primer, glue and grout exclusively for floor coverings. The base of the bathroom and toilet is constantly subjected to heavy loads, therefore it is necessary to lay the tiles with an adhesive of increased fixation.

Particular attention is paid to preparing the mixture. You must not deviate from the instructions on the packaging of the mixture; the proportions must be strictly observed when preparing the adhesive emulsion

To do this, you need to carefully study all the recommendations of the manufacturers. The glue should be uniform, without lumps.

Poorly prepared base.

How to lay tiles if the original base is uneven? Many people try to solve the problem with more glue. This is a fatal mistake that guarantees a crooked floor with height differences. The fact is that leveling the surface by laying tiles with a large amount of glue will entail landslides of the adhesive base and the probability that the tile will simply “float” reaches almost 100%.

Therefore, before installation, you need to pay attention to leveling the surface. Correctly laying tiles on the bathroom floor can only be done on a well-prepared surface.

There was an error in measurements

Trying to lay tiles without careful measurements means setting the whole job up for failure. It is impossible to lay a tile floor evenly without a corner, a rubber hammer and a water level, or better yet a laser level.

The laid row of tiles must be checked using a level; defects are leveled using a rubber hammer. Why a rubber mallet and not an ordinary one? The ceramic coating can simply burst or chip when using an ordinary hammer, because rubber hammer must always be at hand.

Leveling tiles with a rubber hammer

Bathroom tiling basics

In order for the tiles to last as long as possible, it is necessary to follow a certain order of laying the tiles in the bathroom. It is easier to lay tiles on the floor. Therefore, if you have little experience, it is better to start with the floor.

If you plan to lay it parallel to the walls, then it is better to start from a visible corner for more decorative qualities of the finished surface. Laying diagonally is usually done from the middle of the room.

Particular attention should be paid to the seams between tiles, since the decorative properties of the surface depend on their size.

The size of the seams is adjusted using plastic crosses. It is necessary to ensure that air does not form under the tiles, which can lead to destruction of the material. The level must be checked. Tile cutting is done using a tile cutter or grinder.

Let's look at the sequence of laying tiles on the walls in the bathroom. Here the situation is more complicated, since you have to work on a vertical surface. In this case, there are also certain rules for laying tiles in the bathroom.

Firstly, you need to start laying from a visible corner. Secondly, installation is carried out from a profile nailed to the wall and aligned horizontally. It is fastened at such a height from the floor that only whole tiles are laid under the ceiling.

After the glue has dried, the bottom row is laid out. To apply the glue here, you can use a notched spatula, which will allow you to adjust the layer. Too much adhesive may cause the tiles to slip or fall off.

Sometimes you have to make slopes from tiles in the bathroom, for example, for niches for sewer pipes. In this case, you should come up with spacers, since when gluing tiles to upper slope, it may fall off. To decorate the joints, external and internal corners for tiles in the bathroom are used.

The final step is to grout the joints with a mixture of the appropriate color. The excess mixture is removed with a sponge, and then the entire tile is wiped clean.

Thus, it is clear that the technology for laying tiles in the bathroom is quite complex. But with a certain amount of diligence, it is quite feasible on your own.

It is very important to strictly follow the installation rules and use only high-quality building materials

Additional Information:

Reasons for deformation of bathroom tiles on walls and floors

Putting tile joints in order when laying tiles on the floor

How to veneer aerated concrete with clinker tiles

How to choose the optimal layout

Before choosing a tile, it is worth drawing a sketch by hand to decide on the type of cladding. To do this you need to draw detailed plan rooms with all sizes and furnishings:

• carefully take measurements of the floor and walls, openings, and indicate the parameters on paper;
• draw up a drawing of the bathroom and be sure to show the location of the doorway, window (if any), all niches and ledges;
• indicate the location of plumbing fixtures, sockets, switches, and pipeline outlets.

Now that the plan is ready, you can select optimal scheme layouts using sketches with colored pencils. Such a sketch will help determine the best location of decorative elements, places to cut tiles, and problem areas. Be sure to consider the degree of complexity of the work if you plan to do the cladding yourself.

Diagonal method

The most complex and time-consuming.

This method has a number of advantages:

• visually expands the area;
• if there are mistakes in the layout and the walls are not perpendicular or non-parallel, it hides this flaw;
• gives a beautiful and original drawing.

And also the disadvantages:

• Even minor deviations in the size of the tiles are not allowed;
• more waste.

With the “diagonal” method, the first row begins to be laid with cut tiles diagonally, which increases the percentage of waste.

The tile joints are located perpendicular to each other and at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls. Checking the accuracy of laying tiles in the bathroom is carried out with a level and a square.

The following options for laying tiles in the bathroom are a two-color combination of already known methods.

Methods for laying ceramic tiles: advantages and disadvantages

Laying tiles in the bathroom is done according to various schemes, each of which can emphasize the advantages of a ceramic coating and will allow you to use the features of the geometry of the room with maximum benefit. Below are the most popular styling models with an assessment of their practicality.

Direct method

The easiest to implement and cost-effective. The tiles are laid in even strips parallel to the plane of the floor and walls. Both square and rectangular tiles are suitable. The second option, depending on the location, can help to visually increase the space.

This procedure for laying tiles in the bathroom is often used among beginners in this field.

Running

This laying scheme is similar to the installation of brickwork, when the tiles are laid in a checkerboard pattern with subsequent rows shifted in relation to the previous ones by 1/2 of the length. This option looks especially advantageous when laying tiles in the shape of a rectangle, the sides of which are in a ratio of 2 to 1. The advantages are similar to the direct laying method, with the difference that there will be more waste.

Staggered laying is ideal for rectangular tiles called "hogs" because the result is a surface that imitates real brickwork.

Diagonally

For this method laying is characterized by the arrangement of fragments at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the line of interface between the floor and walls. This technique looks very impressive, especially on large-scale surfaces, but is more difficult to work with. An expanded panorama with lines intersecting diagonally appears before your eyes. For limited space, this method is not suitable, as it will optically reduce the area of ​​the room. Disadvantages include the increased complexity of the work and significant labor costs associated with the need to trim tiles. Diagonal laying is associated with a large level of waste, and therefore is quite expensive.

Carrying out diagonal laying work will require a sufficient level of skill from the worker. For novice finishers, such a scheme may be too complicated.

Modular

The modular design was invented to create unusual styling. Drawings that are distinguished by originality and modern design can be achieved by using tiles of different sizes, but with multiple edges. The main difficulty lies in the correct calculation required quantity finishing material. For this purpose, a schematic layout plan to scale is created. It is imperative to take into account the level of thickness of the seams.

The modular scheme is in many ways similar to the staggered laying method, but the calculations for its creation must be as accurate as possible.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom

To properly lay the tiles, you will need to follow a number of recommendations:

1. It is necessary to start laying tiles on the wall from the second row, counting from the floor. The first row of tiles on initial stage remains empty, during installation you should follow the markings.
2. The glue is applied to the base, not to the tiles. For convenience, use a notched spatula; it will create the desired texture.
3. Do not press too hard on the tiles during installation; if you overdo it, the ceramics may not hold up and crack or break.
4. Excess glue is removed using a foam sponge.
5. To ensure that the seams between the tiles in the bathroom are the same width, use special crosses. Optimal width a few millimeters.
6. Check each new row for horizontalness. Even the slightest deviation can later lead to distortions in the masonry. This may happen due to slightly different sizes of tiles, which periodically happens with domestic ceramics.
7. When tiling corners and ledges in the bathroom, you will need to cut the tiles using a grinder or tile cutter.
8. If you need to make recesses, you can simply carefully break them out with pliers until you get a hole of the required size.

You can see more details on how to lay tiles on bathroom walls with your own hands in the training video.

Seam processing

Having figured out how to properly lay tiles in the bathroom, you can move on to the following the most important stage– grouting tile joints. How to process it yourself ceramic products? The grouting process should begin one day after laying the last tile.

Use a sponge to remove any remaining adhesive from the tiles. The grout solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions. Apply it inside the seams with a rubber spatula. The mortar between the tiles hardens within half an hour. Next, wipe it with a damp sponge.

Processing seams on tiles

To avoid the formation of mold and mildew in the future, finished seams are treated with a special mixture. Wide seams are rubbed with a mixture of sand, to which it is recommended to add latex. Latex will protect the seams from cracking, eliminating the need to replace tiles. It also performs a decorative function in the bathroom, the design of which will become unique.

The use of latex does not require diluting the dry mixture with water. Just mix them and leave for a while. The finished grout is applied with a brush or cloth. After drying, the seams are washed again with a dampened sponge.

Preparing the walls

Preparing the walls comes down to plastering and leveling them. The tiles must be laid absolutely level with the wall. If the seams between the bricks are deep, they are sealed with mortar. First you need to decide on the verticality of the walls. If the wall has a deviation from the vertical of more than four centimeters, there is no point in leveling it with plaster. Such walls are sheathed with plasterboard sheets.

Plaster leveling

First you need to remove the plaster that has fallen off the wall and plaster all the cracks. The only tool that can cope with this job and smooth out all the flaws is a rule that is at least two meters long. It is the rule that all excess solution is cut off. If there is no rule, then you can use an even one instead metal corner or square pipe suitable length. The applied solution must be removed without sparing.

Proper preparation of the base

The success of the event depends not only on the quality of the purchased materials, but also on how thoroughly the preparatory work was carried out. Installation should be done on a wall that has been cleared of old coating. Walls and floors must have a perfectly clean and smooth surface. Otherwise, over time, the tile will swell, crack, and then completely fall off.

Old tiles are knocked out using a chisel and hammer. You can use a hammer drill, but it makes a lot of noise. The paint is removed with a spatula or drill.

The floor is leveled in two ways:

• concrete mixture;
• leveling mixture.

Leveling the floor under tiles in the bathroom

The latter option is more expensive, easier to implement and allows you to get a perfectly flat surface.

If there are significant unevenness on the walls, they are eliminated with concrete mixture or putty. However, it is easier to cover them with moisture-resistant plasterboard

When using it, you will have to pay special attention to sealing the seams. To prevent moisture from penetrating inside, they are additionally coated with varnish.

A primer helps improve the moisture-resistant qualities of the material and increase adhesion. It is recommended to cover not only drywall, but also concrete or brick bases.

Joining materials

Technological joining of laminate and ceramics can be done using the following products:

• the use of a flexible PVC profile allows you to connect curved bends;
• a flexible metal profile is used to connect curved zones and straight seams;
• an aluminum threshold is used to process the joining surfaces under the door leaf;
• the use of a box threshold increases sound insulation and seals joints;
• using a transitional PVC profile, coatings with a large difference in height are finished;
• when using a cork expansion joint, a smooth joining surface is obtained between the laminate and the tile;
• Using a T-shaped profile from solid wood, straight seams are made.

T-profile

Types of layouts

There are many types of laying tiles on the floor and walls of the bathroom, from the simplest to the incredibly complex. Each option has its own advantages and features. Let's look at the most popular types of tile laying.

Straight

The simplest and most popular option for laying tiles in the bathroom. The tiles are located strictly parallel to the floor and walls, side by side. For such a layout, a simple rectangular or square shape is suitable.

Running

Otherwise, such a design is called brick or stone masonry. In order for such decor to look harmonious, it is worth choosing the right proportions of the tiles. Perfect option the ratio of width to length is 1 to 2. How beautifully you can lay out tiles in the bathroom, imitating brickwork, is shown in the photo below.

Diagonal

One of the most difficult methods of laying tiles in the bathroom, requiring experience. When choosing such masonry, it is necessary to take into account that due to the constant cutting of tiles, the material consumption will be much greater compared to other options. However, the effort and money spent will be worth it, since diagonal laying of tiles is also one of the most impressive.

Despite its effectiveness, diagonal design is not suitable for every bathroom. If the area is small, it is better to use more simple options, since the diagonal will only make all the shortcomings of the room visible. It is better to choose a similar layout for a spacious room, but you should pay attention to the curvature of the walls - they should be perfectly smooth without deviations from the perpendicular axis. You can see in the photo how to use tiles laid diagonally in bathroom design.

Modular

An eye-catching choice for bathroom design. In this case, tiles of different sizes are used; they can be laid out in any combination, which gives room for imagination. Combination options different tiles There are a huge variety in the bathroom, the most interesting ones can be found in the photo.

Horizontal

Clear lines can significantly change the proportions of a room. The horizontal layout of the tiles most often consists of a dark bottom combined with a light top. There may also be an option with several horizontal stripes different colors. With this design, plain tiles are most often used.

If you choose a finish with patterns, it is better to separate parts of the masonry with a plain border. To make the design more harmonious, the border is used not only at the bottom of the walls, but also under the ceiling. You can see what the horizontal tile layout in the bathroom will look like in the photo below.

Vertical

With a vertical tile layout in the bathroom, brighter stripes clearly stand out against a plain background. The width of the stripes can be different, the same or alternate. However, it is worth considering that too many stripes look too bright and are not suitable for decorating all the walls of the bathroom. In this way, it is better to highlight only one wall, a separate area or niche.

Vertical stripes visually stretch the room upward, while at the same time narrowing it slightly. This looks good on long longitudinal walls, but not on the ends in narrow rooms. Using stripes, you can highlight different areas of the bathroom, if it is combined with a toilet, as well as the most significant design elements.

Mosaic layout

The combination of regular tiles and mosaics in the bathroom looks very impressive. A real mosaic is more difficult to install, since it requires laying out hundreds of small elements exactly according to the diagram, without ever making a mistake.

However, there are simpler options - ready-made mosaics on a grid or imitation. Mosaics can be used in different ways:

1. Wall decor. The mosaic pattern can be made in one color or with a full pattern. The choice of ornaments, colors or subject of images depends on the style of the interior and the personal wishes of the household.
2. Flooring. If the bathroom is small, colorful mosaics on the walls may look too bright, but similar decor on the floor will look good even in a small area.
3. Zoning of space. Using mosaics, you can divide the bathroom into zones. This type of finish is especially popular in the shower area or on the wall along the bathtub.
4. To attract attention. Mosaics can be used to highlight specific details, such as a sink or bath towel hooks.
5. Decoration. Mosaic does not have to occupy the entire bathroom; it can be a border, individual stripes or patterns.
6. Hard to reach places. The tiny details of the mosaic allow it to be used for finishing the most complex surfaces.

How beautifully to combine tiles with mosaics in the bathroom can be seen in the photo.

Tile grouting and treatment

Grouting of the tiles is done after the entire room has been lined with this material. If, when laying tiles on the walls, gaps were left for subsequent grouting, then grouting without sand in the composition will be required. Sanded grout is used for floor tiles, which are also laid at wide intervals. To increase beneficial features grout, some craftsmen add latex to it, the solution of which is sold in specialized stores. You should not try to save money on this solution, since its beneficial properties noticeably decrease along with a decrease in its concentration. The latex solution increases the elasticity of the grout and the quality of its adhesion.

Grouting seams in the bathroom

DIY bathroom tiling

It is convenient to distribute the solution over the surface using a rubber trowel, which must be carefully moved diagonally across the laid tiles, holding it at a slight angle. Proper grouting allows you to fill every single seam with grout, but it is better to check this after the process is completed

It is recommended to start grouting from the wall near which the bathtub is located, and when it is finished, you can clean the place from which the repair began. After grouting, the ceramic tiles are treated with a sealant to protect them from harmful influences, which is applied using a paint roller, but if only the seams will be treated, you can also use a regular brush. To ensure that the tiles last as long as possible, they are treated with sealant at least once a year.

A little about the choice of material

As we have already said, ceramic tiles for the bathroom are the most popular type of finishing material. There are certain requirements for this room; accordingly, the materials for its finishing should be chosen correctly, namely, taking into account their technical characteristics:

• minimal moisture absorption;
• increased resistance to cleaning chemicals;
• resistance to mechanical stress;
• resistance to high temperatures and a couple;
• bathroom floor tiles must be abrasion resistant; resist bending and abrasive substances.

When choosing a material, you should proceed from the quality of the ceramics. Tile that meets European standards can be of three grades, each of which is marked with a specific color. The first grade is a tile with red markings, different high quality and strength. The second grade is a material that may have approximately 5% defects; this series is marked with blue or light blue markings. The lowest grade is marked in green.

Ceramic tiles are distinguished by their resistance class, of which there are five, they are marked with Roman numerals. In a residential area, it is advisable to use a material no higher than wear resistance class III, but for a bathroom, class I is sufficient. Since laying tiles in the bathroom is not easy, you should correctly calculate the amount of tiles - ideally, you should take the material with a margin of about 15% to take into account the fit. Well, the design of the material plays an important role in the choice - after all, everyone wants the bathroom to be not only functional and comfortable, but also beautiful. And the variety of tiles is a guarantee that you can easily find your own finishing method.

Where to start

The first thing you need to think about is not how to arrange the decor of the tiles in the bathroom; first you need a floor plan with the location of the main interior details - plumbing fixtures and furniture

What you need to pay attention to when creating a diagram:

1. When thinking over the drawing, observe all the proportions and scales of the bathroom, but do not make the drawing too small. The diagram should be large enough to place all the elements on it and clearly indicate the dimensions.
2. To correctly lay out tiles in the bathroom you need to know exact dimensions, so measure all the walls of the room, taking into account the doorway, ledges and niches. Label the obtained values ​​on the diagram.
3. Mark the location of plumbing fixtures and furniture on the drawing.
4. Be sure to indicate the location ventilation shaft, sockets, switches, etc.
5. It is not necessary to indicate the interior details that are attached on top of the trim on the diagram - they do not affect the layout in any way.
6. Do control check- compare the real bathroom with the resulting diagram, make sure everything is correct.

This is what a bathroom should look like with the correct tile layout

An accurate diagram is needed to correctly calculate the amount of material, the size of the tiles and the ornament itself. If you make even a small miscalculation, it may turn out that the most beautiful elements of the layout end up behind the plumbing fixtures or in the corners, otherwise the effect that was intended for such decor will be completely lost. Design examples that you can see for laying tiles in the bathroom are presented in the photo below.

Sketch of tile layout in the bathroom

Tile laying process

Having carefully examined various options finishing the bathroom with tiles, let's move on to studying the installation process itself using the example of tiling the floor in the bathroom.

To do this, let’s imagine that the tiles have already been selected, all materials have been purchased, and necessary measurements done.

1. We clean the surface: we remove the old covering from the floors: linoleum, parquet, tiles along with glue or mortar. After tapping the surface and hearing a dull sound, we also remove the old screed (this means that there are cavities under it and the base is not strong).
2. Next, we prepare the surface for laying the tiles.

• If there are big differences relative to the horizon, it is necessary to level the surface. We do this with cement-sand mortar.
• After the screed has dried, prime the surface and dry it.
• We arrange waterproofing using bitumen pastes or a special mixture for plaster waterproofing.

• We prime again to increase the adhesion of the base to the future coating.
• If the differences in the horizontal floor level are small, you can use a special self-leveling mixture (leveling mass), which can remove the difference from 3 to 15 mm. When using leveling compound, surface priming is not necessary.

The base of the floor is now ready.

The options for decorating the bathroom with tiles were discussed above and you have already chosen the appropriate installation method.

1. We begin laying the tiles in the direction from the far wall to the doors. We also determine which wall will have a bathtub, shower stall, washing machine or furniture under which the cut edges of the tiles will be hidden. We carry out the work from the direction of the open corner (whole tile) to the wall with plumbing (cut tiles).

For this:

• place two tiles in the corners the desired height and attach them to alabaster (it dries quickly and can be easily removed in the future);
• Wet the underside of the tile well with water (you can dip it in a container of water);
• Using a special (notched) spatula, apply diluted glue to the entire surface of the tile;

• we lay it in place, joining it with the lighthouse tiles, and leaving a gap between them using special identical crosses;
• we put the laid tiles in place, tapping them with the handle of a trowel;
• we check the correctness of the draft using a rule, a lath or a nylon thread, placing it on top of the lighthouse tiles, or we check the horizon with a short level;

• remove excess glue that appears after settling with a trowel;
• use a spatula to clean the seam between the tiles;
• we check the horizon again;
• We repeat the entire cycle until the end of the row, then remove the beacons and install them with glue.

1. After all the tiles have been laid and the glue has dried, we begin grouting the joints:

• Use a dry cloth to remove any remaining adhesive from the surface of the tiles;
• Using a rubber spatula, fill the seams with diluted grout;
• let dry and remove excess.

As you already understood, the installation process is not complicated, but it requires care and attention. A well-chosen technology will ensure a long service life of the tile covering. Good luck!

Choosing tiles and laying them

In order to correctly calculate the amount of facing material, it is necessary to measure the surface area on which it will lie, and also determine the size of the tile itself. Tile sizes range from 100x100 mm to 600x600 mm and are sold per square meter. You need to buy it with a reserve, since when laying about 5% can go to waste. Also, the quantity of tiles purchased is influenced by the method of their installation. There are several such methods:

1. Direct laying. This is the simplest and most common method.
2. Diagonal laying. It looks more impressive, is suitable for square rooms, and will help hide slanting walls.
3. Laying in a checkerboard pattern. The best way laying tiles of two or more colors.
4. Offset installation. In this case, the tiles of the next row are placed offset to the tiles of the previous row. This option is more suitable for rectangular rooms.
5. Mosaic. This method is made from facing materials of different sizes and colors, thereby creating a specific pattern or design.

Once the choice and installation method have been made, you can begin preparing the walls.

Before starting repairs

Before laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, you will need to check whether there is a slope on the walls. This is easily done using a level; the walls should be strictly at an angle of 90 degrees. If there is a deviation upward or downward, you will need to first level the surface with plaster. You can see how this is done in the video; without leveling it will not be possible to properly lay tiles in the bathroom - such repairs run the risk of not lasting long.

If the angle between the wall and the floor deviates from the norm of 90 degrees, unsightly gaps in the masonry between the tiles may appear, difficulties with installing a bathtub or shower tray (the appearance of large cracks, which will have to be sealed with sealant), etc.

Range construction stores pleases with constantly emerging new products designed to fulfill modern finishes housing. But be that as it may, ceramic tiles do not lose their popularity at all, and remain one of the most popular materials for cladding floors and walls in rooms with specific operating conditions - with high humidity, with direct contact with water on surfaces, with a pronounced abrasive load , with the need for frequent wet cleaning using detergents. According to these criteria, this includes bathrooms, toilets and kitchens, hallways and corridors, balconies and loggias, entrance areas and some utility rooms.

In a word, in any house or apartment such finishing is sure to be widely used. That’s why the question is so relevant: how difficult is it to lay ceramic tiles with your own hands? Is it worth inviting a professional, or can you do it yourself? We cannot agree with the opinion of the authors of individual articles who claim that tiling is a very simple task. Such finishing requires strict adherence to technology, knowledge of many nuances, a certain skill and increased accuracy. However, it doesn’t seem impossible either - many homeowners have successfully completed the finishing work themselves. We hope that this article will help the portal visitor understand the basics of ceramic tile laying technology, carefully assess their capabilities and make the right decision.