After 2.5 m with pulling from the strip in one row and installation without delivery and painting of the metal primer.

The cost of painting is not included. Painting the 1st section 90-00, pillar from 25-00. Cost of strip 20* 4mm. with welding on one side – 55 1 p/m.

Photos of recent works

Advantages of ordering from us

Long term warranty

Any product from our company can be purchased with a guarantee and unlimited post-warranty service.

Turnkey service package

We manufacture and install all fencing on a turn-key basis cheaply, at prices that are optimally affordable for Moscow residents.

Taking into account customer wishes

During production, we are guided by the client’s preferences regarding the cost, design and features of the product.

Many years of experience

We have been manufacturing and installing barriers for many years. We have experience working with structures of varying lengths and complexity.

Why choose a chain-link fence?

The advantages of chain-link fences are well known to those who have at least once ordered such fences:

Speed ​​and ease of construction

Metal supports from the profile, it is enough to deepen it below the freezing level, backfill or concrete (optional), and secure the mesh. Even with a significant length of the site, it is unlikely to take more than 1 working day;

Optimal price per meter

This type of barriers is the cheapest in comparison with analogues made of corrugated sheets, wood, brick, stone or concrete. For a dacha this is the most accessible and practical option, which does not require large financial investments;

Durability

Fences with galvanized or polymer coating are not subject to corrosion. They are not afraid of precipitation, high humidity, fog - the aesthetic original appearance is preserved for many years;

Light transmittance

Summer residents especially appreciate the fact that the fence does not interfere with the penetration of sunlight and air ventilation. The plants on the site feel comfortable. One of the disadvantages of fencing is that it is easily damaged. cutting tool. However, it is just as easy to repair and (most importantly) quickly and cheaply.

Stages of installing a chain-link fence

The process of installing a fence may vary depending on the design features:

• the construction of a foundation is not necessary (the fence is light in weight), but can be done at the request of the customer. In this case, construction will take more time and will cost more, since it will be necessary to dig a pit around the perimeter and concreting the belt;
• if a structure is planned only on support pillars, then first the supports are buried below the freezing line of the soil, and then the mesh is tensioned onto them. Concreting is carried out at the request of the customer (you can do without it). Such a fence can be installed inexpensively and quickly without compromising functionality;
• for more mechanical strength, resistance to wind and snow loads sometimes they resort to construction on joists. Then the supports are first installed, then transverse profile pipes are attached to them by welding or screws, and only after that the spans are filled. This type of fence is strong and durable and can be installed within 1 working day;
• If it is important to further increase the stability and strength of the fence, we recommend paying attention to the fence within the frame. In the workshop, we will pre-tension the mesh into a frame made of steel angle. We will install the required number of supports on site, and on them – ready-made frames for spans. This option is attractive due to the increased strength of the fence, speed installation work and reliability.

Wickets and gates are installed optionally, in agreement with the customer.

You can find out how much this or that fencing option costs by calling the StroyCity company in Moscow. When leaving for measurement, our specialist will give the necessary advice and recommend the most suitable fence.

Our company installs chain-link fences own production. Tension fences are the most popular. They simultaneously carry a low price, ease of operation and practicality.

• Low cost. Chain-link mesh is a product that does not require expensive and complex equipment, and therefore has a low cost. The fencing has a minimum of components. These are mesh, wire and posts with welded hooks.
• Short construction time. Fence installation usually takes one day.
• Transparency. The ability not to close the area with cultivated plants protection from sunlight is sometimes fundamental in choosing the type of fencing for a site.
• Opportunity to be creative- a chain-link fence will look beautiful supporting structure for landing climbing plants. This will protect your area from prying eyes and make it more comfortable and attractive.
• Durability. The chain-link is durable and resistant to corrosion. It will last for decades without asking for anything in return.

Work examples:

Fence installation.

Chain-link fences are installed on square or round metal posts with a cross-section: 60*60, 60*40, 60*30 mm, which are driven or buried 1.2 meters into the ground using a gas drill. The poles have an anti-corrosion coating, their service life is measured for decades. Adhesion to the mesh is provided by welded metal hooks (4 pieces on one post). Additional fastening of the mesh is carried out by pulling 8mm reinforcement.

We can install gates and gates into any fence.

Chain-link fence calculator.

Installation prices:

Turnkey fence installation is ours professional services. By choosing them, you will receive a high-quality level of service and a 24-month guarantee on all products.

Simple and inexpensive way to mark the boundaries of the territory - install a chain-link fence. Of course, today there are many alternative materials, having a more presentable appearance, for example, . But they are more expensive and labor-intensive to install, and are more suitable for permanent external fencing of a country house.

And if you need to fence off a building site, summer cottage, separate the economic zone from the residential one, or make an enclosure for animals?

Is it wise to spend a lot of money and a lot of time, attracting specialists, if you can make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in one day, and the result will be achieved? The manufacturing technology, calculation and installation are described below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Advantages of a chain-link fence

• saving financial resources. The price of a chain-link fence is almost the lowest of all possible options fence Only a fence made of branches can compete in price, but otherwise it will lose;

• light weight. There is no need for a massive frame or pouring a foundation;

• strength and resistance to environmental factors: moisture, temperature changes, ultraviolet radiation, fire, mechanical damage;

• light transmittance. A chain-link fence does not create obstacles to the penetration of sunlight, which means that there will be no shaded areas on the site and the plants will feel comfortable in any part of it;

• low maintenance and no need for repairs;

• ability to withstand significant load. For example, wooden fence it’s easier to break through than to tear a metal network;

• availability. You can buy chain-link mesh at any hardware store or market;

• a large assortment allows you to choose the one that suits you would be better suited for specific needs;

• high installation speed. Two people can install a chain-link fence in one day.

Of course, a mesh fence is not without its drawbacks, including: unattractive appearance, “transparency” of the fence and the need for painting. Some of the shortcomings can be easily eliminated if you know how to choose a chain-link mesh correctly.

Types of chain-link mesh for fences - which is better

When choosing which chain-link mesh to use for fencing, you need to take into account its main parameters:

1. Material of manufacture:

• low carbon steel (the mesh is more ductile);
• stainless steel (hard mesh).

2. External coating:

• non-galvanized chain-link. Wire thickness - 1.2-5 mm, cell size 50-100 mm. This mesh is prone to rust and needs painting;

• galvanized chain-link. Wire thickness - 1.6-5 mm, cell size 50-100 mm. Does not need protection, has long term services;

• plasticized (metal with polymer coating). Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size 25-50 mm. More presentable, with high-quality coating has a long service life.

Advice. Ask the seller for a certificate confirming the quality of the coating. Simple PVC coating without additives that guarantee its resistance to ultraviolet radiation and frost will soon become unusable.

3. Chain-link mesh dimensions

How less cell, the smaller the living creatures will crawl through the mesh. This is relevant when building a fence, for example, for chickens or ducklings. But such a mesh will be heavier, more metal will be needed to make it, which means it will be more expensive. For a fence, the best option is a mesh with a 50x50 cell.

After the grid is selected, it’s time to move on to the main work, namely, creating a sketch of the fence, calculating materials and installing the fence (tension and sectional).

How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands

Stage 1. Drawing of a chain-link fence

A drawing or sketch is a working graphic document that contains the following data:

• location of installation of the fence, taking into account access roads, trees, houses, other buildings on the site, etc.;

• relief features. If the site has a slope or elevation changes, the diagram will help you decide what is more appropriate: leveling the soil or making a cascading fence;

• fence length. Since the width is determined by the width of the mesh, there is no need to take the length into account;

• Place of installation of support pillars and supports.

Types of chain-link fences by frame type

When designing a fence, a decision is also made regarding what chain link fence frame will be used. Due to the fact that there are three ways to attach the mesh, there are three types of frame.

• tension fence- easy to install. Price tension fence from the mesh, the chain-link is minimal. In order to build it, you need to install supports and stretch the mesh. Design flaw the fact that the mesh will begin to sag over time;

• tension fence with broach. A broach in the form of a strong wire serves as a support that supports the mesh, preventing it from sagging;

• sectional fence. Requires more costs to purchase a corner for the frame and longer time to manufacture sections. Although you can already buy it on the market ready-made sections. Naturally, the price of a sectional fence made from chain-link mesh is the highest, but the design is more reliable and practical.

Note. If the terrain on the site is uneven, it is better to give preference to a fence made of sections; this will allow you to install a chain-link fence, taking into account height differences, without leveling the ground plane.

The correct drawing of a chain-link fence contains a description of the fence with key dimensions and main components, incl. arrangement of corners.

Stage 2. Material for building a fence: selection and calculation

Installing a chain-link fence will only take one or two days if you prepare all the materials and tools necessary for the work in advance.

Construction Materials:

1. Rabitz. The requirements for it are described above.
2. Tension wire (when installing a tension fence). Function - to support the grid, to provide additional points fastenings and eliminate the possibility of sagging. Galvanized wire with a thickness of 2 mm or more is suitable for the fence. (from 130 rub/m.p.).

   As a more durable alternative to wire, reinforcement is used, which is welded between the posts or a thin pipe. These materials prevent theft of the mesh.

3. Support posts for a chain-link fence.
4. Profile corners (for making a sectional fence). Using corners, a frame of individual sections is formed, which are installed on support pillars. The average price of a corner 40x40x3 is 97 rubles/m.p.
5. Thin wire or other fasteners for attaching the mesh.
6. Cement and sand (for concreting support pillars).
7. Protective compounds for wood or metal processing.

The tools you will need are: tape measure, rope for marking the area, shovel or drill.

What kind of posts can be used for a chain-link fence?

Metal poles

A hollow profile of round or square cross-section is used. The versatility of the metal pole is beyond doubt. The iron support does not require any treatment during installation (only priming and painting); any type of fasteners can be welded to the metal.
For a chain-link fence, a round post with a diameter of 60 mm is suitable. ( average price with a metal thickness of 2 mm - 159 rub/m.) or rectangular, with a section of 40x60 (price with a wall thickness of 2 mm - 163 rub/m.).

Wooden pillars

Despite the fact that this is the simplest solution, wooden supports have the disadvantage of being susceptible to weather influences and the activity of microorganisms. In addition, dense wood (oak, elm) is not cheap. You can use more popular species - pine, birch. With proper treatment and constant care, they will last 20-25 years. However, in practice, wooden chain link fence posts are used for temporary structures. A post with a size of 100x100 mm (70 rubles/m.p.) is suitable for a fence.

Brick pillars

Strong and massive supports are too expensive a solution for a mesh fence, therefore, in practice they are not used. In addition, a foundation must be poured under them.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Concrete pillars

Relatively inexpensive material. You can make it yourself or buy ready-made ones ( approximate price for one support 80x80x2000 - 350 rub./piece). This is relevant if the store is in close proximity to the installation site, otherwise transport costs will significantly increase the cost of a chain-link fence. At the same time, fastening the mesh to concrete pillar has its own specifics.

Asbestos cement pipes

They are characterized by relative cheapness (pipe price 100x3000 - 300 rubles), strength and resistance to rotting. But stretching the mesh is inconvenient and requires the use of clamps or clamps. In addition, the pipes are hollow; they simply need to be closed with plugs, otherwise frozen water will simply rupture the pipe from the inside.

Stage 3. Calculation of a chain-link fence

1. Number of m.p. (linear meters) mesh depends on the size of the area. Usually, chain-link is sold in rolls of 10 m. The price of galvanized chain-link mesh 50x50x2 mm is from 54 rubles/sq.m. The price of non-zinc-coated mesh netting 50x50x2 mm - from 48 rubles/sq.m. The price of polymer mesh 50x50x2.2 mm is from 221 rubles/sq.m.
2. The length of the tensioning wire is equal to two fence lengths (or three if the wire is installed in the middle). With a fence height of 1500 mm, 2-3 pieces are sufficient.
3. The number of pillars depends on the perimeter of the site (total length of the fence) and is calculated based on the fact that maximum distance between adjacent pillars is 2,500 mm. This rule remains the same for a fence with tension and for a sectional fence.
4. The length of the profile angle is equal to the perimeter of the frame multiplied by the number of sections.
5. Wire for fastening or other fasteners depending on the method of fastening.

Stage 4. Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands

Sequence of work.

1. Preparing the soil surface

The fence installation site does not require serious cleaning. It is enough to remove debris and eliminate interfering plants and shrubs. In this case, plants that will grow near the mesh (and not near the support post) can be left if their development does not lead to deformation of the mesh.

2. Pouring the foundation for a chain-link fence

Do you need a foundation for a chain-link fence? There are fences installed on the foundation. Filling concrete base can only be explained by the installation of a mesh using heavy metal sections. Which in most cases is unjustified.

3. Installation of posts for a chain-link fence

Preparatory treatment of fence posts

• Processing of wooden poles- the timber should be treated with an antiseptic (a solution that prevents wood from rotting) at the level of its depth in the soil. The SENEZH product line has proven itself well (price from 90 rubles/l).

• Processing of metal poles- iron supports must be cleaned of rust and coated with a corrosion inhibitor (preventing the development of rust). The products of the company Conferum, which supplies several types of primers, are in demand.

How deep should I bury chain-link fence posts?

Despite the minimal windage of the mesh, the chain-link is heavy; with a length of 2.5 meters (between supports) and a height of 1.5 m, the fence can tilt or fall. Therefore, support pillars are installed to a depth of up to 1 meter; under certain conditions (fence height, type of soil on the site), the minimum pit depth is 50-80 cm.

Methods for installing fence posts

Installation on hard ground (clay)

Installation is possible in two ways:

• Firstly, by hammering or screwing in the supports to the required depth. This method has a significant drawback, which is that it is difficult to maintain the installation level when driving and it is easy to deform the top of the driven pipe. Therefore, it must be covered with plywood to avoid deformation.

• Secondly, by drilling/digging a hole for it and then pouring concrete. In this case, the installation depth of the support is selected taking into account the level of soil freezing. However, some masters argue that this is not necessary.

Installation on loose and heaving soils

The technology is more labor-intensive; here the craftsmen also distinguish two installation options:

• First, install the support 20 cm below the soil freezing level. Then the heaving of the soil will not push out the pipe.

• Secondly, replace the soil around the support. To do this, you need to make a hole of a larger diameter (twice the diameter of the pipe) and replace the soil in this place with crushed stone, at a height of 40 cm to the surface of the soil, the column is concreted. This method creates drainage, which takes over the heaving of the soil and levels it out. In this case, the pole will definitely not lead.

Advice. Manual drilling, especially with a large number of holes for posts, is a very labor-intensive task. It is better to find/rent/buy a motor drill, with which guide holes of 50-60 cm are made, the remaining 40-50 cm of the pipe (column) are hammered with a sledgehammer.

How to install chain-link fence posts

Installing posts for a chain-link fence is no different from installing other types of fencing. Installation procedure:

• First, the corner posts are installed. When tensioned, they are subject to the greatest load, so it is advisable to strengthen them with spacers (oblique supports). The purpose of the spacers is to prevent the tilt of the support. As an option, you can put more powerful pillars (thick-walled) in the corners;

• pillars are installed where the fence breaks (at the corners of the fence, at corners);

• a rope is stretched between the already installed pillars, along which, first of all, the supports for the gates and wickets are mounted;

• settling in entry group( , ). Please note that the entrance group of a chain-link fence is always made in the form of a section, reinforced with additional jumpers;

• after this, row pillars are installed. It is advisable to make the distance between them the same. This rule is mandatory when installing a sectional fence.

Note. Hollow metal pipes are closed with plugs to prevent water from getting inside and causing rust.

4. Guide wire for tensioning the chain-link mesh

The purpose of the wire (cable) is to ensure a strong tension of the mesh between the posts. The necessary tension is provided by the following methods of fastening the chain-link:

• tensioner;
• lanyard;
• hook with long thread;
• staples, clamps, spans and clamps only keep the wire from sagging on intermediate posts. They are not used as tensioners.

The order of tensioning the chain-link: one end of the mesh is tied to a corner support post, and the other is stretched. If the length of the fence is too long, intermediate fasteners are installed. Their function is to support the wire.

Note. Some users advise running a guide wire through the mesh cells. But this option is only suitable for installing a small fence, because stretching the wire along the entire length and then installing the mesh on the supports is a difficult and pointless task.

5. Attaching the chain-link mesh to the posts

• install on the stretched tension wire;
• secure to the fittings;
• install into a section and secure in separate sections.

How to stretch the mesh between support posts when building a tension fence

The roll of chain-link mesh is installed vertically near the corner post (attached to metal posts). In this case, the curved edges of the mesh should be oriented upward. This reduces the risk of injury from the sharp ends of the wire.

Advice. If a non-galvanized chain-link mesh is installed, then the craftsmen recommend raising it above the ground level by 100-150 mm.

The mesh is fixed in several places on the support. Then, gradually unwinding, the mesh is tensioned and at the same time attached to the upper horizontal jumper (wire or reinforcement).

When the first roll is finished, the mesh is pulled over the lower jumper. It is important to untangle all the tangled spirals of the mesh.

After this, the second roll is screwed to the first roll (to each other), and the second roll is unwound with tension.

Note. If the work is carried out with an assistant, then the connection (bundle of rolls) can be done in a canopy. If you do it yourself, then you need to connect the pieces when the mesh is not fully stretched, and its edge can be stretched along the length on the ground. Sometimes binding is done by using a wooden bridge to which the edges of both rolls are attached.

After installing the chain-link mesh along the entire length of the fence, the mesh is fixed to the middle lintel.

When stretching the wire, special attention should be paid to the corners. Here you need to be extremely careful to avoid distortion of the mesh fabric.

How to stretch the mesh between support posts when building a sectional fence

First, let's look at how to make sections for a chain-link fence

• from metal corner need to make a frame. Frame parameters: length equal to the length of the support pipe minus 100-150 mm; the width is equal to the distance between adjacent supports;

• the corner is opened into blanks using a grinder;

• the blanks are welded into a frame;

• Next we work with the grid. Unwinds from a roll of chain-link right size and is separated by twisting the wire;

• A reinforcing rod is inserted into all four sides of the mesh. The rod allows you to pull the mesh to the edge of the corner;

• the rod is welded to the edges of the frame inside the corner. Thus, the chain-link is attached to the corner.

There is another option, which involves welding metal pins (hooks) 3 mm thick along the inside of the corner. Then the pins are bent inward with pliers, and the mesh is pulled over them. After the entire mesh is stretched, you need to weld the edges of the hooks to form a loop. This eliminates the possibility of the mesh slipping.

After the frame is ready, we proceed to its installation. To attach a separate section to a profile pipe, you need to weld a metal plate onto the support and weld the section to it.

It should be noted that it is very difficult for a beginner without experience to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh. Difficulties arise from the fact that:

• it is problematic to make sections of the same size;

• it is difficult to install a piece of mesh stretched, without sagging;

• the need to perform welding work;

• difficulty in installing fence sections.

Decorative decoration of a chain-link fence

A chain link fence is no different. bright design and attractiveness, but if desired, it will result in a cute and strong fencing for the site.

Ideas for decorating a mesh fence

• openwork weaving. It is made with thin wire on a mesh with large cells. Simple pattern It’s quite possible to do it yourself;

• decorative landscaping. Planting weaving or climbing plants along a mesh fence will create hedge around the site. Alternatively, you can attach hanging flower pots, as in the photo on the right;

• in order not to wait for the greenery to grow and braid the fence, the mesh can be decorated with decorative wire flowers;

• creative design. With a little imagination, you can create original and funny decorations for a chain-link fence.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - video

Cost of a chain link fence

The total costs of constructing a chain-link fence are determined taking into account the materials used and their quantity. For example, the cost of materials was indicated as they were discussed. The cost per meter is easy to calculate, knowing the consumption of each material and the length of the fence.

The price of a chain-link fence for work and installation is per 1 m.p. is given in the table

Thus, a chain-link fence is a cost-effective and quickly erected type of fencing that you can make with your own hands.

Chainlink fence- this is the most a budget option fencing for your territory or site. The simplicity of design and installation allows you to quickly build such fences of almost any length. A chain-link fence has many uses; it is used not only as a fence for a summer house, private home, vegetable garden or agricultural land, but also for fencing children's, sports and construction sites, or even as a fence for livestock, poultry and so on.

Mesh fence, turnkey price

The Zaboriya company offers to take advantage of our offer, installing turnkey chain-link fences. We have excellent service, the best installers and very low prices from 310 rub., per linear meter. In addition, we offer various options installation: simply with mesh tension, using broaching reinforcement and sectional version. The mesh we use can have three coating options: galvanized, coated with regular paint and powder coated.

Prices for chain-link fences with standard, minimum possible configuration: profiled posts 60x30x2, caps for posts, welded hooks on supports, galvanized wire 1.8 mm, size 50x50 mm, distance between posts 2.5 m.

Installation without materials (work only) from 140 rubles, per linear meter, both for sectional and tension.

Additional services

* Frame for gates and gates made of profile pipe 40x20 mm, inside mesh "Chain-link"

Possible configurations

For the construction of mesh fencing, we use galvanized wire with a diameter of 1.8 mm and a cell size of 50x50 mm. The cost is based on the following parameters:

1. Fence height (1.5 - 4 m);
2. Broach (reinforcement 8 mm, wire rod 6 mm);
3. Mesh coating (galvanized, polymer);
4. Parameters of pillars (from 60x30 mm to 80x80 mm, round with a diameter of 60 mm);
5. And also, the installation method: with broaching fittings or sectional option.

Types of fences made from chain-link mesh

In tension

Special fasteners and hooks are first welded onto the supports driven into the soil. The mesh is stretched and hung with these hooks. Afterwards the hooks are bent or welded.

With fittings

At a short distance, approximately 30-50 cm, reinforcement is pulled through the mesh from above and below. After which the reinforcement is welded to the pillars.

Sectional

The mesh is attached to a frame made of profiles or corners. The frame may have various sizes in width from 1.5 m to 2.5 m. After which the frame is welded to the pillars.

Characteristics

The chain-link mesh is made of low-carbon steel wire, which is why it has no resistance to corrosion. In order to avoid premature oxidation and rust, the wire is galvanized or coated with a polymer coating. The first method extends the service life by 10-15 years, the second by 20-25 years. Keep in mind that the thinner the wire and larger size cells, the less strength of the chain-link fence.

• The wire diameter can vary from 1.2 to 4 mm. The best option would be 1.8 - 2.8 mm.
• The size of the mesh cells is from 10 to 100 mm. 30 - 60 mm is considered optimal.
• Roll height in standard version 1.5 m, but to order the maximum fence height can reach 4 meters.

• When choosing a mesh fence, be careful. IN Lately Electrically galvanized mesh is often offered. This approach allows you to obtain no more than 20 g/m2 of zinc on the wire, and this is not enough to protect against corrosion.

  We use hot-dip galvanized zinc-coated wire, which contains about 90 g/m2 of zinc.

Installation of a chain-link fence

Installation of mesh fencing is essentially one of the simplest; it can be done completely independently without special effort. How do we do this?

1. Since the mesh does not interfere with the passage of air, the fence has virtually no windage. Therefore, we use profile posts with a diameter from 60x30 mm to 60x60 mm. They are quite sufficient to impart rigidity to the entire structure.
2. The posts are driven in slightly below the soil freezing level in winter period. This is approximately 1000 - 1200 mm.
3. The supports on which the mesh is attached are equipped (welded) with special hooks. She hangs herself on them.
4. To ensure that the mesh does not sag over time to a distance of 300 - 500 mm, reinforcement is pulled from the top and bottom of the fence through the mesh cells. This gives additional hold and rigidity. The reinforcement is welded to the pillars.
5. If a sectional chain-link fence is installed, the sections are simply welded to the posts.

If you need to fence your summer cottage quickly and inexpensively, perfect option– chain-link fence. The material itself has many positive properties, in particular flexibility, which allows you to make rounded turns. Regarding durability, some types last 4–5 years, others – 30 or more.

Installation is carried out in several ways - you can simply manually pull it between the supports or make separate sections using welding. A variety of pillars are used – wooden, metal, brick. The choice of design depends on its purpose. If everything is done thoughtfully, step by step, the work goes easily.

Chain-link mesh - features of different types

All products use black low-carbon metal wire with a diameter of 1–6.5 mm, intertwined with each other. The cells have a strict square or rhombic shape with angles of 60°, sizes from 2.5 to 100 millimeters. The thickness of the material and clearance parameters affect the scope of application. The main purpose is to create fences, but it is also used in construction, cages for breeding poultry and animals.

Some manufacturers pre-treat raw materials, but this is not required condition.Depending on this, there are three types of chain-link:

1. 1. Made from ordinary wire without protection, which leads to rapid corrosion, which shortens the life of the mesh to 4–5 years, after which dismantling is required. Accordingly, this is the most cheap material of all. Mostly used temporarily with the expectation of replacement in the future. Painting will prolong service life, but should be applied immediately after installation and then repeated at least every three years.
2. 2. Galvanized mesh is more expensive, but due to the protective layer it also lasts much longer. The best option in the price-quality ratio, therefore it deservedly enjoys the greatest popularity.
3. 3. Relatively recently, plasticized chain-link appeared; it was initially applied to its metal wire base. polymer paint. She is not afraid of precipitation, is more beautiful than her predecessors, has different colors. Mostly green, but there are products with burgundy, black, and light shades.

Confidently advancing in the market Alternative option– Gitter mesh. It is made from high-quality steel rods with a diameter of 3–6 mm, held together spot welding, which gives reliability and durability - up to 50 years. Appearance resembles a lattice, which is why it got its name.

Individual elements are bent - stiffening ribs are obtained. They simultaneously perform two functions - they give strength and decorativeness. Her approximate cost– 390 rubles per square meter made of metal 4 mm with polymer coating. For 1 m2 of products made from 5 mm rods you will have to pay 550 rubles.

A chain-link fence has the lowest cost of all fencing options. Despite its relative cheapness, if installed carefully, it will decorate any area. If you show your imagination, it is created unique design with your own hands. Possible options:

1. 1. Weaving openwork patterns. It is performed on a coarse mesh with thin wire.
2. 2. Landscaping. Climbing plants are planted along the fence.
3. 3. Artificial flowers. They are woven into cells, made from insulated wire, pieces of plastic.
4. 4. Drawing on a grid with small cells. Aerosol paints create various images.

In addition to the financial component, other advantages of the material also make you choose it:

• light weight, which allows you to do without a massive frame or foundation if necessary;
• resistance to external climate impacts, which different types mesh is different, as well as mechanical - chain-link fencing is difficult to destroy;
• does not create shadows, so all plants feel comfortable even next to the fence;
• does not require any maintenance, except for structures made of ordinary unprotected wire;
• a wide range allows you to make a choice in quality, price range, size - the material is available in every hardware store;
• It is installed quickly, only a sectional fence is a little slower, but in any case, two people are enough and a significant result is visible in a day.

Of course, there are some disadvantages, but they are avoided if you choose high-quality products and install the fence in accordance with the recommended technology.

Preparation - drafting, materials

To build a fence, you will need a mesh, support posts, and everything else, depending on the chosen design. Drawing up a project will allow you to correctly calculate their number. To do this, measure the area around the perimeter and draw a sketch on paper. Access roads, trees, and various buildings are taken into account.

The features of the relief are taken into account in order to determine what is more profitable when it is uneven - to remove the soil or to make a fence in a cascade with differences in height. The drawing indicates the location of gates, gates and pillars.

Installation methods

Preliminary sketches, which so far contain only general data, allow us to calculate the amount of certain materials: mesh, pillars. To find out how much everything else you need, you should stop at one of possible technologies.

The simplest, but not very reliable, involves stretching the mesh along the supports and screwing them to them. A significant drawback is that sometimes it sags. How a temporary solution can be applied. If you insert wire into the cells around the entire perimeter, it will support the fence. At a minimum, it is stretched from above, better - additionally at the bottom, and the most advanced version - also in the middle. Required footage equals the perimeter multiplied by two or three.

The most attractive look is a fence consisting of separate sections. In length they are equal to the gap between the pillars minus a few centimeters of space from the support to the frame, and the height is determined as desired. Corners are used for manufacturing. Required amount metal is counted along the perimeter. This is the most labor-intensive and expensive project, but the most reliable and durable. It is used on uneven terrain to create a cascading fence.

A less expensive option is obtained when reinforcement, which is cheaper, is used for the frame instead of corners. It is not necessary to make individual elements from it; it can be stretched in cells from below and above, and welded to supports. Detailed drawings will help determine the quantity required material, location, which is especially important for sectional fencing with changes in terrain.

Grid selection

The main parameters are taken into account: wire diameter, mesh size, coating. The chain-link is supplied in rolls, usually 10 m long, 1.2–1.5 m wide, sometimes two-meter and even 3 or 4 m long. The height of the fence depends on this. The required length is equal to the perimeter. If you plan to use sections, then the size of one is multiplied by total. For significant volumes, correct calculation will save money.

The material and coating were discussed above. Another important indicator that affects the quality of the structure is the cell size, which ranges from 25 to 65 mm. The smaller it is, the more expensive and durable the product. The shape - square or diamond-shaped - does not play a significant role.

They are chosen from a purely practical point of view, taking into account the purposes for which they plan to use it. If for an internal fence where chickens or adult birds will be located, there are one set of parameters, but to prevent larger living creatures from entering, there are others. For an external fence, the indicators are different - the priority is the cross-section of the wire and its type.

The thickness of the metal directly affects the strength. For capital long-term structures, a mesh thinner than 2.5 mm is not used. The combination of low thickness with large cells makes it unsuitable for fencing. It soon becomes deformed, sags, and holes appear.

Taking into account all indicators, it is recommended to use it for external fencing summer cottage chain-link mesh with cells 40–60 mm, with a wire diameter of 2.5 mm, galvanized or plasticized. It has the best price-quality ratio.

Another important sign good stuff– condition of the roll edges along the width. For products produced at large enterprises using modern equipment, they are curved, which greatly simplifies installation. And private firms mostly have only a primitive machine, unsuitable for this operation. It is expensive to do them manually, so the buyer has to bend them.

What kind of poles are used?

From all points of view, metal pipes have the greatest advantages. To install them, minimal priming or painting of the part that will be in the ground is required. Any fastening can be welded to such poles without any problems. The recommended diameter of the round profile is 60 mm, the cross-section of the rectangular one is 40×60 mm.

You can also find the material at the nearest scrap metal purchase, which will cost much less. Painted pipes with hooks specially designed for sectional fences have appeared on sale. They cost a little more than usual, but there are fewer worries. It is preferable to use a rectangular profile - it is stronger due to the stiffening ribs that are formed due to the geometry. It’s easier to weld fasteners to them and they look more beautiful.

Wood, as a material for supports, is quite common due to its availability. This is the simplest solution, which then often turns into trouble. Wood has a significant drawback - it is not resistant to weather conditions and is destroyed by microorganisms. Dense rocks are very expensive, while soft ones are affordable, but extremely short-lived. True, if you properly treat them against fungi and rot, and constantly paint them, they will last for 20 years.

In practice, wood is used extremely rarely for permanent fences. While the metal parts still last (at least twice as long), it already has to be replaced - troublesome and unwise. But if the quality of the mesh matches the pillars, then it is quite acceptable to buy the material for 70 rubles. per linear meter.

Other types of pipes, such as asbestos-cement pipes, are also used. They are quite durable, relatively inexpensive - for one piece three meters long you will have to pay 350 rubles. It is not easy to mount the mesh on such a support; it must be done special devices in the form of clamps or clamps. Since they are hollow, it will be necessary to install plugs, otherwise the water collected inside will freeze in winter and tear the support.

Brick pillars, so popular today, are rarely used for chain-link fencing. These materials are very different - an impressive massive structure made of brick and light air net. Maybe a sectional fence. In addition, you can’t just put them on the ground - a foundation is required.

Concrete supports are affordable and their strength is beyond doubt. At good quality they can last for centuries. But it’s inconvenient to attach, you have to invent something, and this extra expenses metal and time. In addition, delivery to an area remote from the store will be a problem - you won’t be able to carry it inside a passenger car.

Marking the territory and installing poles

They start by cleaning the area where the fence will go. It’s better to do this in advance and around the entire perimeter, so that later you won’t be distracted or irritated by the garbage lying under your feet. Then pegs are placed in the corners and a cord is pulled between them. Next, mark the locations of the pillars. A distance of 2–2.5 m is recommended, no more, because the mesh tends to sag.

Calculate the number of supports by dividing the length of the straight section of the fence by 2 or 2.5. An integer value is unlikely to work. Then the total length is divided by the average value. For example, a side is 37 meters. If you divide by 2 it’s 18.5 columns, by 2.5 it’s 14.8. An intermediate number of 16 is chosen. When 37 meters are divided into 16 racks, the distance between them is 2.3 m, which is quite acceptable.

Marks are made along the line of the stretched rope. Holes are made with a shovel or drill. It is important that their level is 15–20 cm below the freezing point of the soil. However, not all craftsmen agree with this statement. In each area the indicators are different, but in any case it is not less than one meter. The mesh fence is quite heavy, and if the supports are not deepened enough, it can tilt. In some cases, half a meter is allowed, a little more, but this is determined by the properties of the soil - it is dense, clayey.

If the soil is loose or heaving, install below the freezing depth. Then the pole will definitely not be pushed up in winter. Another way is to make a hole twice as wide and throw it into the space around it. small stones, crushed stone and compacted. Concrete is placed 40 cm from the top. Drainage is created at the bottom; the supports will definitely not move. It doesn't matter what material they are made of, even wood. This is the most reliable way fixation.

Metal pipes can be hammered with a sledgehammer, but top part must be protected from deformation with a piece of board or plywood. It is sometimes quite difficult to achieve an exact vertical position with this installation method. They use a compromise option - they dig a hole halfway, install a support and finish it to the required depth.

Before installing the pillars, they are prepared. Wooden ones are treated with an antiseptic down to the level of deepening into the soil. Instead, many owners use recycled engine oil, resin, or burn it over a fire. The metal is cleaned of rust and coated with an inhibitor to prevent corrosion. Can be painted with primer or bitumen.

It is important to follow the installation order, then all the supports will be on the same line. The work is done step by step as follows:

1. 1. Install pillars in the corners. When pulled, they bear the heaviest load, so they are reinforced with spacers. Next in line are the pillars where the fence breaks.
2. 2. They all act as landmarks between which the rope is pulled. Next comes the turn of the gate and wicket. The supports for them are often reinforced and must be concreted.
3. 3. The intermediate posts are placed last, maintaining the same distance between them, which is especially important for a sectional fence. Amendments may need to be made. They monitor not only the location on the same line, but also be sure to control the verticality with a plumb line.

In an area that has a significant slope, it will not be possible to stretch the mesh. There is only one way out of the situation - terracing the relief. At the site of the height difference, a longer support is installed. A mesh is attached to it on one side, and the canvas is separated along the width. The second part is set on a different level. Sectional fence installed according to the same principle.

Tension fencing - successive steps

A few days after installing the pillars, when the concrete has hardened, the final stage begins. They start by pulling the cord along the line where the top of the fence will go. It is determined in such a way that the bottom of the net does not touch the ground, but is several centimeters higher. When metal comes into contact with the ground, even galvanized metal, it begins to rust faster.

Next, they provide for attaching the chain-link to the supports. If they are metal, welding is used - with its help, small, 3-4 centimeter sections of rod are installed. The thickness is chosen so that you can bend them later without much effort. If the pillars are wooden, nails are driven along the entire length every 15–20 cm. For asbestos-cement and concrete, prepare soft wire or plastic clamps.

Start with a corner support. This is explained by the fact that when going around it, it is difficult to tighten the mesh well. We'll have to separate the whole piece, and this extra work. The roll is installed vertically, the outer cells are secured in any way. It is recommended to stretch a long rod into them, which is connected by welding with hooks, nailed, bending them, or wrapped with wire. This will ensure even tension.

The work will require the help of one more person, or better yet two. Unwind the roll to the next post. A piece of reinforcement is threaded into the cells that are located a little further behind it. Two people - one on top, the other below, grab it with their hands and pull it towards themselves. The third attaches the mesh to the support. The process is repeated until the roll runs out, and this can happen between the posts.

Then the cells are connected to each other. This is done simply. Remove the wire from the outermost row, apply the finished fabric to the next one and weave it between them. The result is a continuous mesh without seams. It is better to foresee that it will end so that the remainder is not too short. Then it is laid on the ground and secured in this position, which is more convenient than hanging it in weight.

You may come across advice to carry out the procedure with all the rolls in advance, making one large and continuous sheet. You shouldn't do that. The mesh will interfere, lying under your feet, to work due to heavy weight uncomfortable and difficult.

To prevent sagging, wire or reinforcement is passed through the cells at the same time, which is fixed on the supports. Make one top row or several depending on the height of the fence. If it is long, tensioners are installed in the form of a hook with a long thread or a lanyard. These are two screws that are screwed into a special long nut with different sides. At the ends they have hooks or clamps where the cable is threaded.

If the antennae on the mesh are straight, they are folded down. This protects against injury and creates additional strength of the canvas. The remaining piece is separated by retreating one cell from the last pillar. All that remains is to paint the supports if you used welding. When wire or clamps are used for fastening, this is done in advance.

Sectional fence - assembly instructions

All preliminary work is similar to the installation of a tension fence. You need to make a frame inside which the mesh is mounted. The material is a corner with shelves 30–40 mm and a thickness of 4–5 mm. Its length parameters are 10–20 cm less than the distance between the supports, and its width differs from their height by 10–15 cm. The metal is cut to size using a grinder and welded into a rectangle.

Unwind the roll, separate the piece, removing the wire. Sometimes the mesh is wider than the section, then the excess is removed with a cutting wheel. But it is advisable to foresee this and calculate everything so as not to create additional worries for yourself - buying a chain-link according to the size of the frame.

It is more difficult to tighten the mesh inside the section than without it. To do the work with your own hands efficiently, do everything step by step:

• rods 4–5 mm thick are threaded into the outermost cells;
• on one side they weld it inside the corner;
• the fittings are installed below and above in the same way;
• they grab it by welding from the side where the mesh is already fixed;
• tension and finally fix the fencing element inside the frame.

Another method involves welding pieces of wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm as often as possible internal parties corners. A mesh is put on them, then folded over. Here it is important to calculate where to install the hooks. To prevent the fence from sagging, they are welded at the top of each cell.

When the sections are ready, strips of metal 4-5 mm thick are attached to the posts (by welding, on clamps, nailed - depending on the material). On both sides of the supports they should protrude enough to allow the frame to be attached. Two pieces are required on each side, installed at a distance of 20–30 cm from the edges.

A sectional fence is more difficult and more expensive to make than a simple tension fence, but its appearance is much more attractive.

Cost of a chain link fence

Financial costs are determined by the design of the fence and the materials used. There are many companies offering turnkey construction of chain-link fences. The cost of one linear meter is from 320 to 430 rubles, depending on the diameter of the wire and the height of the fence.

Many people prefer to do it with their own hands, winning in financially. It is not necessary to adhere to any scheme; various combinations are possible - metal with wood, concrete, and the like. The most expensive - sectional fencing, which require a lot of iron. The proposed tables are based on retail prices of large manufacturers as of 2018.

product name	Dimensions		price, rub.
	Cells, mm	Rolls (width and length), m
Chain-link mesh with PVC coating	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	956
		1.8×10	1147
		2.0×10	1274
Chain-link mesh, not galvanized	10×10×1.0	1.0×10	944
	15×15×1.0	1.0×10	596
	20×20×1.4	1.5×10	956
Galvanized mesh	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	1283
		1.8×10	1539
		2.0×10	1711

Cost table for 1 linear meter of metal products

Prices may vary depending on different regions, but the presented data allows you to navigate when choosing a chain-link fencing model.