During construction and landscaping of a plot of land, it is often necessary to do round holes in earthen soil. Such pits are needed for light utility structures, which include: arched structures, fences, pillars and other buildings. Even the holes that are made when making a pile foundation, only of a smaller diameter, are also made with a hand drill.

Types of equipment

In what cases can it be used this type equipment:

• When utility networks are laid.
• For the construction of a well.
• For installing a load-bearing base on piles for light outbuildings or other structures.
• When installing a fence.

Types of structures and their technical characteristics

In the past, vertical shovels were used for such purposes. They have been replaced by new, improved, simple models that will greatly facilitate all types of work.

A few simple kits:

The simplest mechanical device

It is a conventional double-sided equipment with a tubular rod, a handle and a cutter with 2 blades on the other side.

Used for digging shallow holes and shallow wells.

Model with removable cutters

It can be used for all types of work

Auger drilling device

The main differences of the improved hand model, this is that behind the cutting blades there is a screw auger. Thanks to several cutters and a split design, work is carried out quickly, and due to extension, penetration occurs to the required depth.

Fundamental manual equipment "TISE": characteristics and production

Today, in private suburban construction More and more often you can find drilling operations with a load-bearing foundation. IN frequent cases, individual construction chooses TISE, optimal solution in terms of cost of work and quality of work.

Modern device for wide use

The operating principle of the drill will ensure comfortable work:

• The presence of sliding sections of the rod allows you to adjust the desired depth, since the length of each part is 1.10 m.
• The equipment is equipped with a soil receiver with a diameter of 20.5 cm, which exactly corresponds to the size of the holes.
• In order for the well to be vertically ideal, a cylindrical accumulator is used.
• If during drilling operations obstacles form in the ground, a guide pin will come to the rescue, which will be responsible for the given direction in the event of interference.
• Auger plates and special loosening cutters, which are located in the lower part of the receiver, are responsible for collecting soil.
• The device is equipped with a folding paddle, which is raised by a cord and lowered by its own weight.

There are only two versions of the TISE drill, which differ only in the storage device.

TISE drill: manual assembly in several versions

A drill made independently can be represented as 2 different equipment: one model with extension, the other is designed for drilling, simpler design.

Manual assembly for drilling work, without expansion:

• You will need 2 pieces of ordinary water pipe (diameter 210mm and length 150mm).
• A bottom is welded on one end of the pipe, and a removable chamfer on the other.
• A thick drill and auger are mounted in the center.

For a telescopic rod you will need 2 pipes (250x250 mm and 200x200). This design can cope with drilling difficult soil up to 100 mm, and the wall of the cup will be perfectly smooth.

After watching the video review, you will be able to understand in more detail the assembly of the equipment and the principle of its operation:

To prevent soil from sticking to the walls of the well, you can use machine oil.

Assembling the device for expansion:

• This device has a more complex structure. A pipe with a diameter of 210 mm and a length of 800 mm is used for the glass.
• The second glass is made 50 mm smaller in diameter.
• Next, there is also a chamfer and a bottom, which acts as a storage tank for soil, holes are made there.
• A rod made of a pipe 200x200 mm in diameter and 100 cm long is attached in the center, into which a device made of bearings is mounted.
• Then you will need a steel angle, 250 mm long, connect it to the sleeve. Using a bolt up to 2 cm, we weld it to the dead rod (the design resembles a door hinge).
• No. 21 Device with extension
• A 250x250 mm pipe is mounted on the rod, and a sleeve with a bolt is welded to the bottom, onto which the 2nd angle is attached and connected to the first.
• Thus, we get a mobile device.
• Finally, we screw on the blade of the shovel, which visually resembles a simple plow for cleaning the bottom.

Schematic drawing of manual assembly

Mechanical hand pole equipment, application, work quality

Among the many models, I would like to highlight one of the universal drilling devices, the earth drill. The equipment is intended for wide range tasks. It is used both in the professional sphere and for individual construction.

Using the equipment you can perform the following types of work:

1. Construction of fences.
2. Preparatory work for foundation supports.
3. For the construction of drainage wells.
4. Planting trees and plants.

The device can also be used for laying communications, i.e., for horizontal drilling.

This equipment is dismountable, lightweight, durable and easy to transport. To work with a digger, you do not need special physical training; you can handle all types of work independently, without outside help.

Types of structures for pillars

The equipment comes in several varieties that differ in functionality and parameters.

We distinguish three groups:

1. “Pit drills” are household without a motor; the work is carried out with the help of an operator.
2. Equipment that runs on gasoline or motors.
3. Hanging structures work only with the help of special equipment.

Manual hole drills without motor

The compactness of the model is convenient to use and transport. Thanks to the equipment it is very easy to install lightweight wooden fence or just dig a hole for a well.

The design looks like this:

• Simple "T" handle.
• Rod with built-in knife.

Manual models are made in different sizes; there are also collapsible ones, which is very important when transporting. Holes are made with a diameter of up to 300 mm and a depth of up to 2 m.

Mechanized models

This is a simple piece of equipment with an electric drive and a motor. There are also gasoline models. The tool allows you to make fairly deep holes up to 3 m.

Drilling or mounted rigs

This model is designed for drilling large diameter wells. Just right for installing electric poles and serious fences, for example, airports or industrial enterprises.

How to make a hand drill yourself

Very few people know that making a hand drill can be done at home. You will need detailed instructions and availability necessary tools and materials.

The model provided is not suitable for complex work with stony clay.

We prepare the necessary materials for production

To manufacture the equipment you will need:

1. Vise.
2. Gas keys.
3. Grinder with a nozzle for metal.
4. Welding.
5. Electric drill.
6. Die holder.

Step-by-step assembly instructions

Pipe processing

We take a piece of pipe with a diameter of 5 cm and make an oval edge.

Drill handle

We prepare a place for the drill handle. We weld a piece of metal for the drill handle to the oval side.

Mounting the nut

A nut is welded to a part with a diameter of 5 cm.

We screw both ends of the pipe. We weld a tip on one side of the pipe, and a bolt on the other and screw it to each other. We cut the discs in half.

Mounting disks

The 2 halves of the disk are welded at an angle of 40 degrees to each other on the edge of the pipe. The second half of the larger diameter is welded similarly above the first at a distance of 10 mm.

We twist both parts together. We get hand drill.

After all the work has been carried out, it is necessary to carry out a test drilling and only after that it can be prepared for applying paint. It will take no more than 2.5 hours to make this model.

Choosing the right tool for yourself, it is better to use some recommendations that will help you do right choice, saving time:

1. When choosing, pay attention to the spiral; the speed of work depends on this detail.
2. If small-sized drilling is planned, then a flat spiral can be used.
3. When purchasing, pay attention to the speed mode of the equipment. During drilling operations, you should strictly follow the instructions so that the tool does not fail quickly.
4. If you are faced with choosing a hand drill for more serious work, then it is better to look at a model with an auger.
5. Working with a manual device will be too tiring for you. It is necessary that the drill removes the earth from the drilling site, which will greatly facilitate your efforts.

For more detailed information, as an example of the operation of one of the types of devices, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video material on how to drill a well yourself shock-rope method.

The video review will explain to everyone how competently you can drill a hole by hand. Practical advice will help you choose best option and take seriously the choice of the equipment you need.

A hand-held earth drill is often required when arranging a site or building a summer house. The tool is simply irreplaceable if you need to drill holes for fence posts, for a gazebo, installing arches or other agricultural work. The drill can be manual or automatic.

Create your own hand drill

Types of drills

For different construction work different types of drills are used . Each of them has a special design:

1. Auger drill. Its peculiarity lies in the elongated cutting part. Used for making holes for posts. Since the structure is longer, it can be removed much less often, so the work is done faster when compared with a garden auger.
2. Garden. As a rule, these are 2 blades welded to opposite sides of the pipe. They are located under different angles. The drill is mainly used to make holes for planting plants. Hence the specific name “garden”. But it can also be used when building gazebos, installing fence posts, etc.
3. For TISE piles. It is somewhat reminiscent of a garden one, but additionally has a blade that folds down at the bottom of the hole for expansion.

The easiest to make are garden spindles. The design may have variations, depending on the soil with which this tool will be used. This is the advantage of self-made tools. It can be made for specific needs. The point is not even the diameter of the blades themselves, but the fact that they can be made removable, bolted, etc.

In this video we will look at a homemade earth drill:

Although the price of the simplest drills in stores is low, such tools position themselves as “universal.” For light soil they will be useful, but on harder soil they are ineffective.

Independent production

Even without the practice of making such structures, making a garden and hand drill for the earth with your own hands will not be difficult. This is the simplest, but at the same time effective model.

Garden auger elements:

1. Cutting part. As a rule, these are two blades in the shape of a semicircle, which are sharpened along the edges. One blade is fixed at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The second, on the opposite side, also has an inclination angle of 20-30 degrees, but in the other direction. For ease of use, the cutting parts can be bolted rather than welded to the pipe. The structure will also be disassembled. If desired, you can make several pairs of blades with different diameters.
2. Rod (pipe). It can be either round or profiled. As an alternative, you can use a crowbar, but it is heavy and difficult to work with. The length of the rod must be 40-50 cm longer than the required depth of the hole. If the length of the pipe is more than one and a half meters, then it will be more convenient to collapsible design. This can be done from two parts of pipe. One part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the second. The design will resemble a fishing spinning rod (telescopic connection).
3. Pen. For this element, a transverse pipe is often welded on top of the structure. The length of such a handle is from 40 to 60 cm.
4. The tip is a drill. It is located on the pipe and is a continuation of the structure under the blades. Responsible for centering the drill on initial stages- the first one loosens the soil, which makes the work process easier.

This is the basic configuration of a manual earth drill. You can attach various gadgets to it.

Necessary materials

The base of the structure is a pipe. The diameter should not exceed 5 cm. If you use a profiled pipe, then its cross-section should be 20x20 or 30x30 cm.

Blade knives can be made from various materials using:

• steel sheets 4 mm;
• saw cutting disc required diameter.

The last option is more convenient and practical for production, since the cutting part is already ready. The disk must be cut in the middle and attached to the pipe. It is also better to sharpen the side parts. So, the disk will cut the ground better when drilling.

The tip can be made in different shapes. You can simply sharpen a metal rod and attach it to a pipe, or make a spear-shaped tip from a strip of steel. Or you can combine both options.

Blade attachment

First you need to decide on the type of fastening of the blades - removable or welded “tightly”. If the drill is dismountable, then small metal shelves are welded on both sides of the pipe from below. They need to drill 2-3 holes for bolts. They should be welded to the pipe at an angle of 20-30 degrees, each in its own direction, just like the cutting blades.

In addition, the holes made in the shelves need to be duplicated in the blades. Their diameter must be at least 10 mm. You will have to cut holes in the center of the blades for the pipe. This must be done both when fastening with bolts and in the monolithic version. If you use a saw blade, then there is already such a hole there. It only needs to be adjusted to the diameter of the rod.

Use of sheet steel

To make a drill with your own hands using sheet steel, just cut out a template from paper for the blades, and a metal circle along it. A hole is drilled in the center into which the rod is inserted. The two parts are fastened together by welding or bolts, depending on the chosen design.

The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe. It can be either round or square, if profiled is used. A spiral can be made in two ways - cut a circle from the edge to the center and bend it in different directions (one up and the other down) or make a drill from two halves.

In the latter case, the metal circle is cut in half after making a hole and then fastened to the rod according to the selected design model. In both the first and second options, it is necessary to bend the edges at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The smaller the angle, the easier the work process will be. But with a large inclination angle, the drilling process is much faster.

On hard soils, the blades can become deformed under heavy load. Therefore, to strengthen the tool, supports made of thick steel are welded. The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened. Finding a sheet of hardened steel is difficult, but even if such material is available, bend it under the right angle Not sure it's going to happen.

Use an old saw blade to create a drill

Saw blade construction

Using an old saw blade to make a simple hand-held excavation auger is practically perfect option. It is made of hardened steel, and it is strong, sharp and resilient. But it is impossible to bend hardened steel, since it can crack at the slightest deformation. In this case, the disk is cut in half and attached to the rod at the desired angle using welding or bolts. If you use bolts for fastening, you must first weld the shelves for fastening the parts of the saw blade.

Such designs are characterized by high performance and durability. To make the drill even sharper, the edges (cut side) are also sharpened. The semicircular sides already have a good sharpening, which becomes sharper and more effective over time.

Modifications of garden augers

For harder soils, a garden auger is useless. Therefore, the design can be modified. To do this, it is necessary to install several rows of cutting parts on the rod. Immediately after the tip, a blade of the smallest diameter is installed. Stepping a few centimeters to the side, the blades are mounted bigger size. There can be no more than 4 such rows. The diameter of the largest blade should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise it will be very difficult to work.

If you need to make a drill for poles with your own hands, then this is an ideal option. The design is very light and easy to work with.

If you need to make a hole for poles of small diameter, then the work looks something like this: make a few turns with a drill, pull it out and throw away the earth stuck between the blades. But if you need to make deep holes, then the work will be long and hard. Therefore, a container for collecting soil is welded on top of the structure. If you can’t come up with modifications yourself, you can use drawings.

Screw designs

Working with an auger is much more difficult than working with a garden auger. This is due to the large number of turns that provide serious resistance . But, as a rule, screws are used together with electric drives, and there is no need to drill by hand. They often make deep wells, etc.

In order to make an auger drill, you need to prepare several disks of the same diameter. The number of disks corresponds to the number of screw turns. You also need to make holes in the disks for the rod.

The disks are cut from the center to the edge, a spiral is made from each part, pulling one end up and the other down. Each part is welded to the pipe one by one. It is also necessary to weld the round parts together.

Drill for making piles

The classic version of a drill for TISE is blades with a container for collecting earth. There is also a wider knife, which is necessary to create an expansion at the bottom of the pile. Use this homemade drill for personal purposes it is not very convenient, since the additional folding knife gets in the way.

In this regard, such structures are often made collapsible, where the folding knife can be dismantled. In general, it is recommended to use a regular garden drill to make a pile for personal purposes, and for expansion, make a separate knife with a container for collecting soil. The work is much easier in this case.

For this design, a scrap from a shovel is used as a knife., and a container for collecting soil can be made from a herring can. The knife is fixed on levers, and when lowered along the pile, it is in the uppermost position, as it is tensioned with a cable. When it reaches the bottom, the cable relaxes and the knife falls onto the walls of the pile, beginning to remove the soil and form an expansion of the desired size.

Alternatively, a dredger can also be made from an old propane tank. To reduce friction, the well is constantly doused with water. This tool can also be used on hard soils.

Alternative brace options

For the purpose of planting vegetation, make complex design, even the simplest garden auger makes no sense. To do this, you can use a modernized shovel. It is necessary to prepare a high quality steel shovel and mark it for further modification.

A 5-8 cm slot is made at the bottom and in the center of the shovel. Each edge is bent in the direction opposite to each other. The sides of the shovel also bend slightly, being a logical continuation of the lower blades.

If the soil is soft, then a regular rotator will be ineffective. For this purpose, a mechanism with an extended cutting part is used. It resembles a kind of glass with longitudinal slots in which blades made of hardened steel are fixed.

Making a handheld excavation auger for personal use is not difficult. You just need to be able to use welding, a drill and other everyday construction tools of many summer residents, as well as understand a little of the drawings.

Almost every construction begins with excavation work, since all buildings and structures are installed on the ground, and most foundations are buried to a certain depth. Excavation work can be carried out with a variety of machinery, motor and electric devices, as well as good old hand tools.

Most common with hand tools are a shovel and a hand drill. The more carefully they will be done excavation, the smaller the amount of materials will be used for concreting and other work on arranging the foundation. Achieving accuracy and economy with a shovel can sometimes be very difficult, especially when you need to make a hole in the ground without big size. It is replaced by a manual earth drill.

Construction and advantages of a pit drill

A hole drill, as the name suggests, is designed to drill various holes in the ground. The use of such holes can be very diverse, even for sewerage, for water, or for digging posts for any fence. Suitable for drilling holes as in vertical plane, horizontal and at any angle you need.

The diameter of the initial hole is limited by the size of the drill itself; the depth can be almost limitless, as long as you have enough strength to drill into the ground. The design of such a device is very simple; the hole drill consists of only a small number of components.

Assembly diagram for a homemade drill

So, what does such a simple and very useful hand tool consist of:

• The basis of the design is the cutting part, or simply the drill. It is with its help that the hole drill cuts into the ground and makes the necessary hole.
• Main support pipe. All structural elements are attached to it, and it allows you to go deeper to the length that it itself has.
• Handle for wrapping. It is fixed on the top part and with its help we can, by applying a certain force, screw the drill screw deep into the earthen soil.

Each of the presented elements can be additionally equipped with various auxiliary elements and other modifications. Typically, manufacturers try to supplement their products with something that competitors do not have in order to lure consumers.

The main advantages of such a device are that the hole in the ground is very neat and precise, in accordance with what you need. Also, due to the fact that the diameter of the hole is limited, you do not do unnecessary work and do not dig up excess soil.

Thanks to this, it turns out that you will not need to spend an excessive amount of materials on concreting the pillars for your fence. Moreover, thanks to its simple design, you can easily make an earth drill with your own hands.

What to prepare

In order to assemble the presented drill with your own hands, you will need very few materials. The main and most complex of them are drill blades. You will have to buy them or very precisely cut them out of thick metal, and then sharpen the edge, giving it a fairly sharp edge for better cutting into the ground. For the base and handle, you can choose any suitable pipe.

Homemade drill with replaceable attachments of various diameters

The only condition is that the pipe walls are thick enough so that it does not break or deform during operation. For tools you may need a grinder or electric jigsaw with a metal blade, a welding machine and a drill.

Assembly steps

To assemble it yourself, you will need either a welding machine, or bolts and nuts and a drill to drill holes for them. It is better, of course, to use both welding and bolts. We will consider the DIY assembly process using the example of a drawing of a pit drill with a removable purchased working part and a non-separable frame.

So how does it go:

• We start by welding the main pipe with the handle. We cut a hole in the handle with a diameter equal to the diameter of the main pipe and put it on the base. Then we make a weld along the contour. It is better to make a through hole, this way it will be possible to make a weld on both sides, which will give greater strength.
• We weld the plates to the cutting elements at such an angle that it is possible to screw them into the main pipe.
• We drill two through holes on the plates and in the pipe itself.
• Having attached the cutting plates, we tightly screw the entire structure with bolts, securing the main nut with an additional lock nut.

At this point, the entire process of making a drill with your own hands is completed and the hole drill can be used. If you want to give it a more presentable and attractive appearance, you can additionally cover the entire surface with metal paint.

If you want to make the cutting part yourself, you will need quite a lot of time, since sharpening and cutting a perfect circle requires a lot of time and precision work.

Why are different blades needed?

Since the diameter of the hole that the tool can drill is limited by the size of the blades, it is best to prepare several different options with different diameters. Then you will have the opportunity to choose the most optimal drill diameter for each individual case when you need to drill a hole.

For home use, it will be enough to make two or three different sizes. Choose one small one for small fences, a medium one for more serious ones, and one large one if you decide to build a more serious and massive fence around the entire site.

When building a house and landscaping a site, it is often necessary to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures.

The same holes, but with a larger diameter and depth, are required when constructing a pile foundation. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. They are available in stores sufficient quantity, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products.

In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.

Designs and Applications

There are three main designs of earth drills:

• Garden. Usually these are two semicircular blades welded at an angle to one another. A hand drill of this design is used to organize holes for planting plants, which is why it is called “garden”. But the same tool is used to make holes when installing posts for fences, gazebos and other light buildings. An example of a homemade earthen garden drill
• Auger drill. It differs in that it has a longer cutting part. It is used for the same purposes - to make holes for pillars. Due to its design - a longer cutting part - it needs to be removed less often, so drilling usually proceeds faster. The auger drill is distinguished by several turns of the spiral wound spirally
• Drill for TISE piles. This design is similar to a garden auger, but has an additional folding blade to form an expansion at the bottom of the pile, characteristic of this type of foundation. Folding blade - features of the TISE pile drill

Garden earth drills that are easier to make. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified.

This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not only about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features.

Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden drill is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

• Cutting part. It usually consists of two steel semicircles with sharpened edges. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the diameter of the holes that need to be drilled. For convenience, the blades can be made removable - bolted on. The pole drill can be equipped with a prefabricated rod
• Kernel. This is a round or profiled pipe (square cross-section). A crowbar can also be used, but it is very heavy and will be difficult to work with. The length of the rod is the required depth of the hole plus 50-60 cm. If you make it shorter, then the last centimeters will have to be drilled in a deep slope, which is not at all easy. If this calculation results in a total height higher than 1.5 meters, it makes sense to make a prefabricated rod. Then the rod is extended with pipe sections of the same diameter, creating an articulation system.
• Pen. Most often, a crossbar in the shape of the letter T is welded to the rod. The minimum length of the handle is 40 cm, the optimal length is about 50-60 cm.
• The tip is a drill. This is the part that is under the blades. It is the first to loosen the soil, and at the initial stage it is responsible for centering the drill - it is easier to hold it vertically.

This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.

Materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.

Blade knives can be made from:

• sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm;
• saw blade for an angle grinder of suitable diameter. Earth drill with blades from a saw blade for an angle grinder

It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the soil easier to cut.

The peak drill is made from different materials- there are a lot of its designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of large diameter rod. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.

A tip for an earth drill made from a strip of steelPike - one of the tip optionsCombined tip for crushing rocks

And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and fastening method

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.

One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters

You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the selected rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

Manual drill with one turn

The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

note

Strengthening a hand drill for drilling wells in dense soils

The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

From a saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost ideal option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.

The disc is sawn in half

This homemade drill for excavation works shows quite high productivity. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.

Cutting blades can be arranged in several tiers

If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with.

The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you can’t drag it from the depths. a large number of you'll be tormented by the soil.

For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.

A homemade drill with an earth receiver is suitable for installing poles and piles

And all these are hand-made drills. All of them are highly efficient - it is much easier to work than store-bought ones.

Auger drill

Due to the large number of turns, an auger auger creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when making a drill for deep wells - for water, for constructing underground probes for heat pump and so on.

This is what an auger drill looks like

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.

A sector is marked in the rings and cut out

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are placed on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Almost done

Drill for TISE piles

In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way.

Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver.

This makes the work easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.

The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to folding design on bolted connections.

More complex design

The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

Bottom view

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.

Blueprints

A self-made drill is good because its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product.

But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills.

As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary; they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.

Shovel drill

There is no point in making a serious structure for planting plants. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments and saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

Drill for soft soils

If the ground is soft, conventional design doesn't work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

Drill for soft soils

This drawing shows an interesting handle design - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden auger

Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be taken out often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Auger and garden auger for soil of different densities

Detailed projection drawing of an auger drill

Garden auger drawing

Video materials

Homemade hand drill for drilling a well with your own hands

Drilling shallow wells in soft soils can be done using homemade device. The maximum possible depth of the wellbore can be 20 meters. One of the components of the structure is a detachable drill pipe, the length of which increases as the well deepens.

One more important element It is considered a handle that allows one person or two people with an assistant to rotate the pipe manually with the application of physical effort. The main element hand tools, of course, is the drill, which can be made in several ways.

But if you decide to make a drill for a well with your own hands, then it must be made of metal, so the master must have welding equipment and the skills to work with it.

This video shows how to make a drill for a well in a couple of hours. Judging by the reviews, the author’s advice to the video helped many novice DIYers in practice.

Making your own spiral drill

In the very simple version execution, the spiral drill is made in the form of a metal rod with a well-pointed end. A pair of knives is welded 200 mm from the tip of the tip. To make knives, take halves of a steel disk with a thickness of 100-150 mm.

Welding of knives to a metal rod is carried out under small angle, the value of which is no more than 20 degrees to the horizontal. In this case, the halves of the steel disk should be located opposite each other.

As a result, the angle between the welded knives is 40 degrees.

The lower edges of the cutting elements of a hand drill for drilling wells are also well sharpened. The speed and ease of inserting the tool into the ground depends on how sharp the knives are.

A factory-made spiral drill is made from special tool steel, which is heated, and then twisted into a spiral and hardened

Industrial models of drills of this type made in a factory from a strip of tool steel, heated and twisted into a spiral. The pitch of the spiral turns is equal to their diameter. After twisting, the steel is hardened.

How to use a spiral drill?

A homemade tool, during a rotational movement made by a worker using a handle, cuts into the soil layer thanks to sharpened knives. Then the hand drill for wells is pulled up along with the cut soil. The earth spills out away from the drilling site. The operation is repeated again.

Cleaning a homemade spiral drill from soil lifted up from the wellbore is carried out near the work site and removed from the site on a cart

As the depth of the structure increases, the tool rod is increased. In this case, the component elements are secured to each other using threaded or sleeve-type connections. To protect against separation of the component parts of the rod, their connections are additionally secured with cotter pins.

By lifting the extended tool upward, the additional rod links are removed. The spiral drill copes well with clay soils, as well as fine gravel that gets in the way of its advancement deeper into the mine.

Features of the spoon-type drill device

In soils that are resistant to crumbling (loam, wet sand, etc.), it is more convenient to use spoon drills. A homemade spoon drill for wells is made in the form of a cylinder, in the side surface of which a longitudinal slot is made. Sometimes the shape of this slot takes on a spiral shape.

The length of the spoon drill is usually no more than 700 mm. The extracted rock is held in the cylinder cavity due to its compression and adhesion. The looser the soil, the narrower the slot in the tool should be. To obtain a cylinder, you can take sheet steel and roll it to a given diameter.

The easiest way is to select a suitable piece of pipe, which initially has a cylindrical shape.

A homemade hand-made spoon drill is made from a piece of pipe of a suitable cross-section, in the side surface of which a longitudinal or spiral slot is made for excavating soil from the side walls of the well

The spoon drill excavates soil not only with its horizontally located lower edges, but also with its vertical edge. In this case, soil accumulates in the cylinder cavity. In some cases, a regular metal drill is welded to the bottom of the structure, which must be positioned strictly along the axis of the rod.

The main feature of the spoon drill lies in the fact that the axes of the drill and the rod coincide, while the axis line of the body of a hand drill, together with the cutting longitudinal edge, is shifted by a millimeter and a half relative to the central center line.

Thanks to this relative arrangement of the axes, the tool manages to drill a hole with a larger diameter than the drill itself. This is possible by removing soil from the side walls of the shaft using a longitudinal cutting edge.

note

To clean the tool from the removed soil, the drill is periodically raised upward.

It is important to note that the spoon drill quietly passes inside the casing pipes, which are installed to prevent the collapse of the well shaft.

Is it worth it to do hand drilling at all?

The advantages of the manual method of drilling wells include:

• low cost of work;
• the ability to operate a hand pump during power outages;
• preservation of the landscape of the site, because the arrival of special equipment is not provided.

Disadvantages include existing restrictions on the possible depth of the structure. In addition, the operation of a homemade drill is almost impossible in dense soils.

Homemade drills for drilling wells can also be used in building fences, planting plants, constructing pile foundations and many other types of gardening and construction work. As you can see, any craftsman who is accustomed to using his own tools on the farm can build such a good “helper”.

How to make a drill for a well with your own hands: instructions with drawings

For owners of private houses, the issue of organizing water supply is relevant. Water is also needed in summer cottages, where it is used for personal needs and watering garden plants. The easiest way to get water is to drill a well. You can contact a company that provides such services, or do everything yourself.

Typically, company employees work quickly and professionally. But payment for their work is expensive pleasure, and sometimes a deep well is not needed. You can buy a drill for a well or make it yourself: drawings, photos and videos are available on the Internet.

With a homemade tool, you will successfully drill a shallow (up to 20 meters) well and provide access to water.

Drilling a water well with a homemade drill

Well drilling methods

The drilling method is chosen depending on the type of soil on the site. Two types of tool movements allow you to select soil - impact and rotation. The impact allows you to “bite” into the ground, after which the tool is removed and cleaned.

Rotation removes soil gradually. The drill is plunged into the ground and it pushes out the soil. Drilling methods can be based on impact, rotation, or a combination of both types of motion.

There are several most common methods:

The most common drilling method. The auger blades loosen the soil and bring it to the surface. The blades themselves are welded to the pipe at an angle of 90 degrees. This tool is not very convenient, because... part of the crushed soil is poured down. If the angle of inclination of the blades is 30-70 degrees, then the extracted soil is not crushed and is not poured back into the well.

The core drilling tool is a pipe with a special crown equipped with sharp cutting elements. The operating principle is based on breaking up the soil and lifting sludge through the pipe. This method is well suited for drilling into hard soil.

The diameter of the well corresponds to the diameter of the pipe. The sludge raised in a metal “glass” is knocked out with a sledgehammer. To prevent the walls of the well from collapsing, water containing clay is supplied. The pipe is lengthened as it goes deeper into the ground, adding additional rods of 1.2-1.5 m.

The device for this type of drilling is a two-meter tripod on which a block with a cable thrown over it is installed. At the end of the cable is attached a bailer - a cutting and gripping tool. The bailer “scoops up” the earth, then it is lifted by a cable and cleaned through a special technological hole. To simplify the process, water is poured into the well, which is later removed.

The device for rotary impact drilling is almost the same as for cable percussion drilling. In addition to impact movements, the installation also performs rotational movements. This allows you to get the job done much faster. For hard soils, the rotary impact method is considered the most effective.

For wells, you can use a regular ice drill. The only problem that may arise is that the rod is not long enough. As it goes deeper into the ground, it can be expanded with homemade additional elements.

Scheme of operation of a manual drilling rig

Auger drilling of shallow wells on soft soils

During auger drilling, soil is pushed out under the influence of rotational forces. It is difficult to prepare a well alone, so it is advisable to find an assistant for this work. For drilling you will need a hand drill, removable rods to extend the device and a handle to rotate the device. You can use drills of two designs:

The spiral drill is a pointed tip with welded steel blades. Spoon - a rod on which a cylinder with a longitudinal slot is attached. This cylinder is called a spoon. It is slightly offset from the axis of the rod, due to which the holes in the ground are larger in diameter than the device itself. Drilling with a device of this design facilitates the installation of casing pipes.

Homemade spoon drill

How to make a spiral drill for wells

For work you will need the following materials and tools:

• durable metal rod;
• steel knives or disk 4-6 mm thick;
• threaded coupling;
• metal working tools;
• welding equipment.

Work order

• The rod must be sharpened or a separate sharp tip welded to it.
• If the cutting parts are planned to be made from a disk, then it should be cut in half. Knives are sharpened.
• At 125-200 mm from the tip, you need to weld two knives at an angle of 70 degrees to the longitudinal axis. The knives are placed on opposite sides.
• A handle and a threaded coupling are welded to the top of the rod. With its help, additional rods will be attached.
• Helpful advice. For the cutting part it is best to use discs from circular saw. You just need to choose the appropriate diameter.

Design of a homemade spiral drill - drawing indicating angles and distances

How to work with a homemade drill correctly

The tip is immersed in soft soil and begins to rotate, gradually deepening the tool. When the drill goes deep enough into the soil and there is a need to clear the soil, it is raised. The earth is dumped to the side nearby. This operation is repeated many times, gradually deepening the hole.

When it is necessary to extend the rod, additional elements are secured using threaded or bushing connections, and the fastening points are secured with cotter pins. When lifting the drill, remove all extension rods that were previously attached to it.

Drawing and photo from which you can make a spiral drill for a well with your own hands

How to make your own drill spoon

This type of device has not only a bottom, but also a side cutting edge. They work with it in much the same way as with a spiral drill. The selected soil accumulates in the tool, so it also needs to be removed and cleaned. To make a drill you will need:

• thick-walled pipe;
• welding equipment;
• locksmith tools.

Sequence of work

• A slit is cut in a thick pipe. Its width depends on the type of soil. The looser it is, the narrower the slot should be, because the extracted soil is held in place by adhesion and compression.
• The required diameter is given to the pipe using a crowbar with a flat tip and a hammer.
• The cutting parts are sharpened.
• A drill is welded to the bottom. You can use a metal drill with a diameter of 18 to 36 mm.
• A rod is welded to the upper part with a displacement of 10-15 mm from the longitudinal axis.

Spoon drill diagram

When deciding to drill a well yourself, think carefully about how correct solution in a specific situation.

On the one hand, you will save a significant amount of money on paying for the services of specialists, and you will not spoil the site with traces of heavy professional drilling equipment. On the other hand, the well will turn out to be shallow, and time and effort will be wasted on drilling it.

Decide what is more profitable for you. If you decide to drill yourself, use the tips outlined in the article and start making a drill.

DIY hand drill

Dinmar – 12/10/2013

Good day. I want to tell you about how I made the drill.
I needed to install several posts of different diameters on the site. I was too lazy to dig, buying a ready-made drill was expensive, and my hands were itching. That's how the idea of ​​making a drill myself came up. I found several on the Internet interesting options and, in fact, got down to business.

Since my posts were of different diameters, I decided to make a drill with interchangeable attachments for different hole diameters, 100 and 180 mm. Next I will describe the manufacture of a drill with a diameter of 100 mm. So, to make a drill I needed: 1.

Pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm, a length of 150-160 mm 2. A strip, 3-4 mm thick, 20 mm wide and about 80 mm long. 3. A cutter (or circular disk), from now on I will simply call it a disk, with a diameter of 100 mm and a thickness of at least 1.5-2 mm.

In this case, it is better to take a pipe with a diameter 2-5 mm smaller than the central hole of the disk.

Figure 1. Drill components. A – cutter (disk); B – tube; B – stripe.

We will make the auger part of the drill from the disk. To do this, cut the disk into 2 equal halves, as shown in Figure 2

Figure 2 Cut disk.

Next, prepare the drill tip. It is necessary to give direction to drilling and ensure stability. Let's take a strip; it is desirable that the width of the strip be at least half the diameter of the pipe. In the example I described, the width of the strip is equal to the diameter of the pipe. (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Strip and pipe

From one edge of the strip we make a mark at a distance of approximately 12-16 mm (Fig. 1B). This section will remain straight. We clamp the strip in a vice, according to the mark, and twist it approximately 90 degrees (Fig. 4)

Figure 4. Twisting the strip.

The result will be a spiral strip (Fig. 5).

Figure 5 Spiral strip and tube with markings.

Figure 6. Marked strip

Figure 7. Tip after trimming.

We give it the shape of a feather on sandpaper (Fig. 8.) (in principle, this is not necessary, but it is more beautiful this way). The tip is ready, let's move on to the next element - the guide.

Figure 8. Finished tip

Let's make a guide to which the disk halves and the tip will be welded. On one edge of the tube we apply markings in the form of a crown with four peaks - teeth (Fig. 5). The height of the teeth is approximately 35-40 mm. After this, carefully cut out our “teeth” (Fig. 9) and bend them evenly inward (Fig. 10).

Figure 9 Cut guide

If the width of the guide is less than the inner diameter of the pipe, it will be enough to make a slot such that the straight section of the tip passes inside the guide.

We sharpen the two edges of the slot to fit the spiral (Fig. 11B), so that the tip fits into it to its full depth (ideally, after welding, the tip should smoothly move into the guide) (Fig. 11B).

Figure 11 Slot in the guide.

Figure 12.

Well final stage, weld the disk halves. To do this, we draw 2 lines on the guide - the edges of the hole in the floor disks will be located on them (Fig. 13).

Figure 13

In principle, you don’t have to draw these lines, but with them it will be easier to symmetrically arrange the half-disks. We weld both halves one by one to the guide (Fig. 15), at an angle of 50-70 degrees to the axis of the guide.

Figure 14. Welding the disk halves.

The drill is almost ready, all that remains is to clean it and attach the handle.
A drill with a diameter of 180 mm was made in the same way. Both drills shown in Figure 15

Figure 15.

Figure 16 shows the drill assembly with handle. I think there is no need to describe the manufacture of the handle; in Figure 17 everything is clear.

Figure 16

Figure 17

OK it's all over Now! Thank you for reading my article to the end, and I hope it helped you.

How to make a drill for a well with your own hands

From year to year everything more people they come to the conclusion that making a well on your personal plot or summer cottage is the easiest thing to do without the involvement of experts.

This allows you to save a lot of money on work, but the equipment and equipment for drilling are quite expensive.

note

Just based on this rational decision– make a frame, a lifting mechanism and a drill for the well with your own hands.

Without a doubt, the responsible part of the entire system is the drill - without it it is impossible to drill a well. A good device makes the work much easier, and this issue should receive the most attention.

The main features of making drills of various types

Before you begin work, you need to decide which drill for drilling wells is best suited to your conditions. This can be found out by consulting with experts who provide drilling services, or with those who made the source themselves. Let's look at a couple of the most common, well-proven options.

Spiral drill

Such a tool is often used by expert specialists, which indicates the effectiveness and reliability of this type of design. Despite its apparent complexity, it can be made at home, and even if a homemade drill for wells will not be beautiful and neat, it will cope with its main function perfectly.

The process of its manufacture is quite simple; for this you will need a grinder, a welding machine and the necessary materials.

The manufacturing instructions look something like this:

• First, a steel circle or a strong thick-walled pipe is selected, which will be the main axis of the device. The workpiece must be strong enough, since the loads on the equipment during drilling are high.
• Then you need to make a guide tip, if you have a ready-made part, then this item may be missed. If it is not there, a strip of metal is taken, heated and bent into a spiral, after which one end is cut off to give a sharp shape to the tip, in the end there should be something similar to that shown in the photo:

• Then a slot of such width is made at the end of the pipe or circle so that the tip can be inserted in that direction, after which the parts are welded.
• The next step is the manufacture of the cutting spiral. It is difficult to bend a strip of metal at home, but it is possible to get out of the situation enough: an already used disk on wood or concrete is cut in half, after which the halves are welded opposite each other at an angle of 20 degrees. In most cases, 1-2 disks with a diameter of 180-200 mm are enough.

• Then you should take care of attaching the drill to the handle and extension sections, since it will work at great depths. It is best to use threaded connections, which are additionally secured with cotter pin connections to ensure greater reliability. The number of extensions depends on the expected depth.

Gas cylinder drill

Usually, for high-quality water intake, a well with a diameter of about 300 mm is required; purchasing such a device is very problematic, since its price starts from 10,000.

But it is possible to make it yourself from a faulty gas cylinder:

• Take an unnecessary or faulty 50-liter cylinder, which needs to be marked and cut using a grinder, there should be a piece of 70-80 cm.
• One of the ends is welded with an iron sheet 3-5 mm thick.
• Then head to weld the axle, very important nuance– it should be offset 1 cm from the center for better work. It is optimal to use a stencil made of cardboard; it is used to determine the position both from below and from above, where it is fixed with spacers.

• A slot about 5 centimeters wide is made across the lower part, on one side of which cutting knives are welded at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. In addition, you should not forget about the guide tip - every small spiral is suitable for it, which you can make yourself or adapt a ready-made unit.

Spoon drill

If the soil at the location of the well is crumbling and there is a large amount of clay in the soil, it is better to carry out the work using a spoon drill. It is possible to make it yourself; for this you will need a piece of pipe of the required diameter.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• A piece of pipe 70-80 centimeters long is taken, and a longitudinal cut 6-8 centimeters wide is made on it 2/3 of the way through.
• In the lower part, one end is bent in the form of a spoon at an angle of approximately 20 degrees, and the second is parallel; this design allows the soil to be cut and passed inside.
• Many people make a small displacement of the axis - up to 5 mm, then the device makes a hole 1-2 centimeters wider than its own diameter.

Frame drill

A very simple, but, according to user reviews, an effective system. The price of a drill for frame-type wells is low, which makes it the most attractive option if you have a small amount of money.

From the photo you can see that it is enough to make the structure: an axis to which the frame is welded, one of the ends of which is made in the form of knives at an angle of 20 degrees. At the end, a small tip is welded.

Other types of equipment and operating features

Many people are interested in whether it is possible to use a motor drill for a well. It must be emphasized that making a hole in upper layers The soil with its help is quite comfortable. But then it is difficult to keep it in a level position; in addition, working at enormous depths greatly overloads the equipment.

And one more thing that you should consider: so that you don’t have the problem of how to get the drill out of the well when it has gone deep enough, you need to create a special frame to which a manual or electric winch is attached. This will make your work much easier.

Conclusion

By making a drilling device yourself, you save a lot of money and get a tool of the configuration you need (find out here how to make a drill for a well at home).

The video in this article will tell you about some of the highlights of the manufacturing process.

Do-it-yourself drill for a well: how to make a homemade type

To drill a water well yourself, you will need a simple device. It includes a detachable pipe, which can be expanded as the depth of the structure increases, a handle, with the help of which rotation will be carried out, and a drill - main element designs.

If you have decided to make a drill for a well with your own hands, we will help you by collecting the necessary information on the topic that interests you in this article.

There are two types of drills that are widely used to perform rotary manual drilling of wells:

Both of these tools have design features that allow drilling work to be performed without the use of additional equipment.

At its core, a twist drill is a very large drill. It cuts into the ground with its sharp carbide cutting edge, the edge of which is sharpened in the form of a cone. Above, the cutting surface of the tool is twisted in a spiral along the rod. Largest diameter this spiral and determines such important parameter, as the size of the future well.

During the rotation process, the cutting edge digs into the soil and cuts it, after which it moves along the spiral strips and is pushed out with their help.

This creates additional emphasis in the direction of drilling. During the work of drilling a well, residual soil removed from the shaft accumulates between the turns of the auger.

The auger drill must be periodically removed to the surface to be cleaned.

To make your own spiral drill, you can use a cylindrical rod to which a cutting spiral made of a steel strip is welded at the bottom. You can carry out excavation work with such a tool even on crumbling and hard soils.

The spoon drill includes a metal rod, the end of which is equipped with a cylinder of a certain diameter. This cylinder has a longitudinal or spiral slot in its lower part. The method of grasping soil served as the basis for the name of the drill with a spoon.

Relative to the axis of the metal rod, the spoon is shifted to the side by approximately 10-15 mm. Thanks to its displacement, this tool drills a hole whose diameter exceeds that of the spoon itself. Increasing the diameter is necessary for installing casing pipes into the excavation, the diameter of which must be greater than the diameter of the drill.

When performing drilling operations using a spoon, the casing pipes should be installed at the same time. It is most effective to use such a tool on plastic soils - sandy loam and loam.

Making a drill yourself at home, the rod of which will be welded with a spiral, is not an easy task. But anyone who has the skills to work with welding machine, grinder and other tools.

Let's prepare everything we need for work in advance:

• welding machine;
• grinder;
• tape measure or other measuring device;
• steel rod of the length we need;
• steel disc.

We will carry out all stages of work in order. First you need to cut the steel disk into two identical semicircles. Now both parts of the freshly sawn blade need to be sharpened. This part of the work would be well done by someone who knows how to sharpen tools, because the quality of sharpening will determine how easily the tool will enter the ground. This means the overall speed of work.

The end of the steel rod also needs to be sharpened. We mark 200-250 mm from the tip and make a notch on the rod. At this point we have to weld both parts of the steel disk at an angle of 20° to the rod. The angle between the parts of the disk themselves should be 40°.

Theoretically, a spiral drill can be made using a steel spiral for this purpose. To do this, you need to take a strip of tool steel, heat it, and then twist it into a spiral with a pitch corresponding to the diameter. The strip should then be hardened and finally welded to the rod. But it is almost impossible to perform such work efficiently outside of factory conditions.

If the soil on your site is resistant to crumbling, then it is better to use a spoon drill to drill a well. It, as already mentioned, has the shape of a cylinder with a longitudinal slot in the side and a spiral-shaped catching spoon at the bottom. The length of such a cylinder usually does not exceed 70 cm, and the diameter of the tool can be different: it depends on the parameters of the well that we want to obtain in the end.

The soil that the driller is to bring to the surface must penetrate the cylinder through the cavity and be held inside by adhesion and compression. Before making a slot in the cylinder, you need to evaluate the quality of the soil on your site: the higher its flowability, the narrower the slot in the spoon will be.

You can make a drill spoon yourself in two ways:

• take sheet steel and twist it along a given diameter, giving the workpiece a cylindrical shape;
• use a piece of pipe that already initially has the shape we need.

To complete the work we will need:

• hollow steel cylinder;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• steel rod or rod;
• metal drill.

Using a ready-made steel pipe for work is, of course, much easier. To make a drill, you need a small piece of it. All that remains is to make cuts at its end, bend them and sharpen the edges.

Instead of a pipe, you can use a used cylinder. Using a grinder, cut a slot in the bottom of the cylinder.

To make it easier for the drill to penetrate the ground, you can weld a regular metal drill to the rod strictly along its axis.

The method with sheet steel is more labor-intensive. The steel blank will need to be welded along the seam, and the cutting edge sharpened so that it fits into the ground more easily. The drill must also be secured with a weld, placing it in the lower part of the cylinder.

If there is no suitable drill for metal, you can replace it with a narrow steel plate, having previously sharpened it on both sides. In this case, drilling efficiency will not be lost. The length of such a plate is approximately 15 cm.

Ready spoon cylindrical It remains to be welded to a metal rod, which is shifted to the side by 10-15 mm from the tool axis line. When operating the drill, this displacement will make it possible to make the well of a larger diameter. This occurs because the longitudinal cutting edge of the spoon drill scrapes soil from the side surfaces of the shaft.

Due to the fact that the diameter of the projectile is smaller than the diameter of the casing pipes, such a drill can easily be used inside the casing being constructed, which will greatly facilitate their installation procedure. The pipes themselves will protect the well from collapse.

note

The loads during operation of the spoon drill are very high, so high-strength tool steel must be used for its manufacture. The elements reinforcing the drill should ideally undergo heat treatment and hardening processes.

It is not enough to learn how to make a drill for a well yourself. It is necessary that the finished drill can be used to perform the work. To do this, it is necessary to equip it with a handle or handle, as well as a detachable drill pipe.

Handle - important structural element. It is necessary so that the drill can be rotated comfortably. The design of the handle is also not as simple as it seems. It can be envisaged that one person will operate it, but sometimes other people may also participate in drilling operations. larger number of people. The complexity of the process depends on the quality of the soil and the depth of the future well.

The handle is made of rolled metal, which has a decent margin of safety. After all, this part of the drill needs to withstand significant loads without springing or damping the applied forces. Welding is used to connect the handle and the upper edge of the split pipe.

Bur – multifunctional tool. With its help, you can not only build a well, but also, for example, dig a pole. If you use it for gardening, you can do without a drill pipe. A one and a half meter base will be enough to dig shallow holes.

But we need a drill in order to drill a deep enough well with it. What to do in this case? There is no point in leaving the barbell in one section and simply lengthening it. The length of the rod and the ability of the metal to resist torsional forces are inversely proportional. It will be impossible to work with a long single-section rod.

There is only one way out: you need to make a drill pipe that will consist of detachable sections. The length of one section, a detachable rod, should be 1 meter or a little more.

There are so many such sections that need to be built in order to eventually reach the planned well depth.

The length of the string of rods attached to the drill will be increased gradually as the drill moves deeper.

There are several options for connecting rods into a long drill rod, these are:

• Threaded coupling. To create such a connection, a thread is cut inside each section that will correspond to the dimensions of the connecting element. The threaded coupling is manufactured required length. All we have to do is exclude the possibility of spontaneous unscrewing of the connection. For these purposes, a cotter pin clamp is used. This method is simple and reliable.
• Nut and bolt. They are welded to rods made of small diameter pipes. It's simple enough, but not enough reliable option. You will have to weld on a thin-walled pipe, on which such a connection is unlikely to be strong. Moreover, in order to record this threaded connection rods, you will have to put in extra effort.
• Welded couplings. Cut from a pipe whose diameter is larger than that of the rod. Then tightly weld the coupling to the pipe at one end of the section. Insert the next section freely into the same coupling on the other side. Now you need to secure the sections so that they do not rotate. To do this, you can insert a bolt across the pipe and secure it with a nut on the other side.

To make a drill for a deep well with your own hands, several rods are connected. Moreover, it is better if their connection is extremely simple. After all, during the drilling process, the tool will rise to the surface so that it is freed from the ground. Each rise of the drill is accompanied by its division into its component parts, and each subsequent descent is accompanied by new assembly and extension.

In addition to the drill itself for creating a well manually They also use other tools, which are worth mentioning in this article. For example, if the well is already ready, but it was not so easy to pull the tool to the surface of the earth, you can use lifting mechanism, which works on the principle of a lever.

When the drilling procedure is delayed, and the drillers themselves lose strength, they would be greatly helped by devices that help turn the drill inside the well and screw it in as it deepens.

You can drill a well on a site not only by rotating the drill, but also by the percussion-rope method. This type of work requires a special installation, which can also be made independently from scrap materials. Having such equipment, all work can be performed without any assistants at all, so we will also consider the process of making an impact drill.

To understand what and how we will make, let us consider in general terms the essence of shock-rope work.

A projectile pipe called a bailer is dropped from a great height into the location of the future well designated with a shovel or auger. An eye for the cable is welded to the drill at the top. A hole is cut in the top side to extract the drilled rock.

The lower edge is sharpened or equipped with teeth that optimize soil loosening. At 5 - 7 cm above the nominal bottom, a ball or petal valve is installed inside the pipe to capture and hold loose rock.

A bailer is an indispensable tool when digging through loose sand, pebbles, and gravel deposits. It is often used in combination with other drills. Alternate with a screw or glass, which is not capable of extracting loose and saturated with water sediments. Loose soil particles are retained inside the bailer thanks to a valve located at the bottom of the housing. The auger, bell, and glass do not have such advantages.

The procedure for dropping the drill is repeated many times. The result of the process is a body that is one-third filled with soil and a hole in the ground that increases by 30-40 cm.

The filled bailer is removed from the barrel using a winch, turned upside down with the hole and cleaned with blows of a heavy hammer. Then the process of percussion-rope drilling is resumed and repeated until a well of the depth that was planned to be obtained is formed at the site where the drill fell.

In this case, there is no point in creating one drill, so we will tell you how to build the entire drilling rig along with the projectile.

• We select the place where, according to our calculations and assumptions, the well should be located. We mark it out by making a small depression using a regular shovel.
• We install a tripod 2-3 meters high above the hole. We equip the top of the tripod with a well-fixed block for the rope. You will also need a winch, which we attach to the supports. It's good if you have an electric winch, but a manual one will also work.
• We prepare the impact drill itself. For this purpose, we will need a thick-walled pipe, the diameter of which corresponds to the size of the shaft of the future well.

To make a drill, we take a strip of thick metal and weld it to the upper end of the pipe, placing it perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the projectile.

Along the center line of our pipe, in a welded metal strip, we drill a hole corresponding to the thickness of the rope on which the projectile will be attached.

The lower end of the pipe also needs processing: you can make a serrated or ring sharpening on it. If you have a muffle furnace, you can harden the drill in it after the sharpening procedure.

The drill for percussion-rope drilling is not so easy to clean from the soil that has accumulated in it. To speed up this routine operation, you can make not a window-hole, but a vertical slot passing through almost 2/3 at the top of the pipe.

The heavier the drill, the faster you can achieve the desired result, but it is also necessary to take into account the power of the winch, which will have to pull the drill with soil from the wellbore. So, if its power still allows, the projectile can be made heavier by placing removable metal weights in the upper part of the pipe.

This video clearly and clearly explains how to make a reliable and functional spiral drill using available materials and easy-to-use tools.

Obviously, a person who has skills in working with a welding machine and the most common plumbing tools will be able to make a homemade drill with his own hands. Using a projectile, he will manually perform drilling work on his summer cottage. This will significantly reduce the overall costs that were planned for providing water to your territory.

The gardener's fighting "friend" - the shovel - does a good job in the garden. With its help you can dig a trench for the foundation and a hole for a seedling.

However, there are operations where this entrenching tool is ineffective and can only be replaced by a hand-held excavation drill.

There are many examples of its use. Let's take the simplest one - a hole for a fence post. You won’t be able to dig it up quickly and compactly with a shovel.

This tool requires a lot of space to “maneuver”, so instead of a pit with a diameter of 10-15 cm, you will have to dig a wide hole. Moreover, the deeper you need to dig the post, the wider it will be.

For a hand drill, such work will take two to three times less time. The pit will be compact and very little earth will have to be removed. Let’s not forget about such an important point as preserving the natural structure and density of the soil. Digging with a shovel breaks it, the earth becomes loose. Therefore, when backfill it is necessary to properly compact the soil (layer by layer with simultaneous wetting).

The auger hand drill for poles provides maximum speed work and reduces its labor intensity. The depth of the pit can be 0.5 - 1.5 meters, and when using extension cords - up to 5 meters.

Where can this tool be used?

The answers to this question are obvious:

• Installation of fence posts;
• Wells for water and laying utility networks;
• Planting seedlings;
• Pile foundations (under country house and outbuildings).

Types and technical characteristics of hand drills

The practical use of “vertical shovels” has revealed their advantages and weak sides. As a result, several varieties of hand drills were developed.

The simplest garden hand auger– a tubular rod with a handle at one end and a two-blade cutter at the other.

The simplicity of the design is a guarantee of reliability, however, you won’t be able to dig anything with it other than a shallow hole or well.

Second variety– a tool equipped with removable cutters of different diameters. It can be used for drilling almost all types of pits and wells.

In addition to the plate type, you can also find an auger drill on sale. It differs from its brother in that it has a screw auger behind the cutting blades. In one working cycle such a tool takes more soil, which speeds up digging a hole.

The advanced hand drill has several cutters and a split rod design. This allows you to build it up, going deeper to the desired level.

The handle extension is another useful option that is found in drills designed for drilling deep wells. It is easier to work with such a tool. You can twist the handle together with a partner, increasing the cutting force of the edge and the speed of penetration.

A special type - TISE hand drills, sometimes called foundation. They have a rather complex design. It ensures the drilling of wide wells under the piles and creates expansions in their lower part.

Such a drill has a wide soil receptacle in which earth with small stones (diameter up to 5 cm) accumulates. A special folding blade begins to work at the very end of the well, expanding the supporting part of the future reinforced concrete pile.

In addition to a flat cutting edge, some hand drills use a serrated one. It loosens the soil better, making work easier.

When choosing a hand drilling tool, pay attention to specifications which we mentioned above. If they don’t have to work often, digging holes for planting trees and posts, it’s better to buy an inexpensive drill with one cutter.

The one who has to dig a deep water supply well, installation columnar foundation or installing a fence around the site, you cannot do without a drill with an extendable rod and a handle extension. The design of such a tool provides for the possibility of replacing cutters.

A hand drill, which can be used by two people, overcomes not only sandy, but also clayey soils with the inclusion of small stones. If the soil on the site is rocky, then a hand drill will not help you. Here you will need an excavator or hand digging with a shovel and removing the stone.

Manufacturers and estimated prices

Due to the simplicity of the design and high demand, the products of dozens of companies are on the market. Despite this, it is better to give preference to well-known brands. These include the Zubr brand. As can be seen from the photo, this tool has two screw cutters - a smaller and a larger diameter.

This makes the drilling process easier: a smaller cutter penetrates the soil more easily, punching a narrow channel in it. The only thing that can be wide is to expand its walls.

The approximate price for a hand-held garden auger Bison with a diameter of 300 mm without an extension rod is 2,000 rubles.

The Tornado hand drill is designed for digging holes in soil contaminated with construction waste and saturated with small stones. It is a combination of fork and plate augers.

By creating minimal resistance to rotation, such a tip confidently passes through soil that is difficult to handle with a standard drilling tool.

The estimated cost of a Tornado drill is from 1,200 rubles.

Making your own drill

The design of the “vertical shovel” is extremely simple. Therefore, its production is available home handyman, equipped with a welding machine, drill and grinder.

In order to make a hand drill with your own hands, you will need:

• Tap steel pipe for the rod (length 1.5 meters, internal diameter 15 mm);
• Steel pipe or piece of reinforcement for the handle (length 40-50 cm, diameter 20 mm);
• Metal drill with a diameter of 15 mm;
• Circular saw blade (diameter 150-200 mm);

To strengthen the drill, instead of a disk, you can take a thick sheet of metal (3 mm) and cut a circle of the required diameter from it. By cutting it into two halves and sharpening the edges of each, we get a durable cutter. Its blades must be welded to the rod so that the angle between them is 30 degrees.

A drill is welded to the end of the rod, which will act as a guide tip. A handle is welded strictly perpendicular to the other end.

If you have extra scrap on the farm, it can also be used as a base for a drill. In this case, you won't need a drill. It will be replaced by the sharp end of a crowbar.

A more universal design can also be made with your own hands. To do this, a nut is welded to the free end of the rod, and a bolt is welded to the removable handle. This drill is equipped with a tubular extension. At one end you need to weld a nut, and at the other - a bolt suitable for the thread size.