Optimal comfortable temperature for adenium the temperature is +25 +35 °C. At room temperature below +15 °C, the plant will shed its leaves.
Watering: moderate in summer, with the substrate drying for 2-3 days, in winter – minimal. During the holiday period, adenium is removed from the sun in a brightly lit place with diffused light.
In general, since light, temperature and watering are interrelated in plant care, watering should be reduced when light and temperature decrease and increased when they increase.
Adenium transplantation. Main reasons for transplantation
In what cases is a transplant necessary?
Firstly, replanting is necessary if the plant is planted in a cramped pot.
Why can’t the seedling be planted immediately in a large pot?
A substrate that does not dry out can cause the roots of the plant to begin to rot.
It is better if you replant the seedling during the growth period every 2-3 months, and the pot should have a small supply. Only under these conditions will the plant develop well.
Young adeniums need to be replanted during active growth once a year, older plants - less often - once every 2-3 years.
The roots of an adult plant are so powerful that the pot often cannot withstand their pressure, as a result of which it is not uncommon for the pot to burst.
Secondly, replanting is necessary as a result of rotting of the roots and caudex. In this case, the adenium must be dug up, the affected areas cut back to healthy tissue, treated with a fungicide, thoroughly dried and planted in a new mixture.
In this case, replanting can save your plant from disease.
Third, a transplant is needed if you initially received a flower planted in an unsuitable soil mixture.
During the dormant period, it is better not to take risks; it is better to start before the start of the growing season.
Fourth, if initially, for example, the adenium was planted in a pot that was too large. Then the plant must be planted in a pot of a suitable size.
As soon as the conditions for replanting meet all the requirements, water the plant about 2 days before replanting. A flower saturated with moisture will easily tolerate transplantation.
If it happens that during transplantation you damage the roots or caudex, sprinkle the damaged areas with powder charcoal, or sulfur, with the drug "Teovit Jet". Around day 2-3, when the wounds have dried, a transplant is possible.
Young adenium's roots grow wider. With each transplant, the planting line is lowered by 2-3 cm, leaving part of the roots above the ground. This way you will get a plant grown using the bansai technique.
When transplanting young adenium, it is recommended to disturb the earthen ball as little as possible so as not to harm the roots.
When transplanting an adult plant, the roots of the plant are washed, checked to see if they are damaged, and dried.
If you were planting a plant in universal soil, then the recommendation would come down to the following: take a handful of the mixture, squeeze and unclench your palm. If a slightly compressed lump of soil has formed on your palm, touch it with your finger; if it falls apart, it means the soil has the required moisture content. Only in this case should a transplant be done.
But specifically for planting mixture for adenium, this method is not entirely suitable, since there are a lot of rippers in the soil, which can lead to the collapse of even moderately moist soil.
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After transplantation, the plant should not be watered. Watering adult adenium should be resumed a week after transplantation.
A young plant is watered after 3-4 days, seedlings - somewhere on the 2nd day. To prevent the top layer of soil from drying out, you can lightly moisten it with a spray bottle once a day if the caudex is not damaged.
The plant does not need spraying.
Pot
Pot shape– another subtlety associated with growing adenium.
Since the root of adenium is long in the first year of life, it is advisable to plant seedlings in deep dishes, for example, you can use a plastic cup. The roots of a young plant, while in the ground, grow in breadth, and they are also thick and fleshy. Then use a regular standard pot of normal size. When growing bonsai, a bonsai bowl is used.
The size of the seedling pot suggests that the distance from the wide part of the caudex to the wall of the pot should be 2-3 cm.
The diameter of the pot should be such that it matches the diameter of the root caudex at its widest part.
For a young plant, it is enough to choose a pot with a diameter of 3-4 cm, for an adult - 4-7.
Material for the pot
It is better if it is plastic or clay without glaze.
A clay pot without glaze has water and breathability, which is very important, as it reduces the likelihood of the plant flooding. In addition, harmful salts are released through the walls, and plus, such a pot is stable.
However, over time, air permeability decreases, which leads to a deterioration in the growing conditions of the plant. In addition, if the plant is on a cold windowsill, then clay, as a natural conductor of cold, can contribute to hypothermia of the roots. And in summer, summer overheating is possible, since clay is a good conductor of both heat and cold.
Release of salts what plants need, does not enhance the aesthetic appearance of the pot.
A plastic pot is a poor conductor of both heat and cold, so a plant in a plastic pot is not exposed to temperature changes. The roots are easily removed during transplantation, since they do not stick to the walls. Calcium salts are washed out through the drainage hole, so appearance the pot does not spoil. The price of a plastic pot is much lower than a clay pot.
However, plastic pots do not release moisture as well as clay pots, so you need to be careful with watering.
On a south window, brown plastic can get very hot, so it should not be placed there.
A plastic pot is more suitable for an adult plant than for a young one, whose caudex is not very developed and as a result the pot may be unstable.
Using this or that pot, you need to Special attention pay attention to watering, light and take into account the thickness of the plant’s caudex and the diameter of the pot.
Substrate
Whatever mixtures are used for planting, the main thing is that they are breathable, loose and dry quickly.
In percentage composition, baking powder can be placed in the following order: about 50% should be perlite; 20% - vermiculite; up to 20% fine expanded clay; about 25% - expanded clay chips; 20% brick chips; 25% foam balls; coarse sand – 20%; clay granulate – 20%; small pieces of charcoal up to 20%.
The pot plays an important role when composing the mixture. Plastic pots retain moisture longer than clay ones, so in this case you shouldn’t get carried away with vermiculite, but for clay pots vermiculite will come in handy.
This must also be taken into account for specific climatic conditions. Where the climate is cool, you should not get carried away when composing the mixture with components that retain moisture, but in hot climates the situation is the opposite.
The mixture must be safe.
The drainage should be a few centimeters deep. Brick chips, expanded clay, and pieces of foam plastic are suitable for this purpose. Since pebbles are cold-conducting materials, they cannot be used as drainage, since the roots may rot.
An example of one of the best mixtures for growing adenium:
- for cool climates:
50% coconut fiber, 30% perlite, 10% expanded clay, 10% coal; - for hot climates:
50% coconut fiber, 20% perlite, 20% vermiculite, 10% charcoal
Soil sterilization
What is it for?
Because young plants are very sensitive to all kinds of diseases and pests that may be contained in the substrate intended for planting, and sterilize the soil.
At home, this procedure can be done using microwave oven, by heating in the oven, disinfect over steam, in a saucepan, with chemicals, by freezing.
In a microwave oven, the substrate is disinfected either in glassware, or in a plastic pot. It is better not to put the original package in the microwave.
With this processing method, you need to make sure that the average power is set; the processing time should be 10-20 minutes. Since moisture disappears when heated, you need to pour a little water into the container before the procedure, and also cover the container with a lid.
When heating in the oven, the substrate is laid out on a baking sheet, do not forget to moisten it, cover it with foil, and heat for 1 hour to 1.5 hours at a temperature of 150 degrees.
If you want to heat the substrate over steam, you will need a colander or iron sieve. To prevent soil from spilling through the holes, cover it with cloth. Heat the substrate over steam for at least 1 hour, and do not forget to add water to the pan as it evaporates.
A fairly simple method is heating in a saucepan. The substrate is poured into a pan into which a small amount of water is poured. The pan is placed on the stove with gas. After the lid of the pan begins to “bounce”, reduce the gas a little and steam for 30 minutes. Do not remove the lid until the pan has cooled completely.
As chemicals use fungicides (Maxim and Fitosporin) and insecticides/acaricides (for example, Intavir). It is advisable to repeat the procedure after a week.
Freezing the substrate involves leaving the soil on the balcony for the winter, or placing it in the freezer. However, we must remember that frost does not affect all pests, so the substrate is also treated with chemicals.
Sterilization of rippers and drainage
Since drainage and rippers are used for transplantation in addition to the substrate, they should also be sterilized. The best way there will be a method of sterilization in a microwave oven. The ripper needs to be thoroughly wet, use ceramics or glass for dishes, set the temperature to the maximum, depending on the volume, the heating time should range from 5 to 10 minutes. Sand and brick chips can be calcined in a frying pan without a Teflon coating, and to sterilize drainage, use all the other methods as for soil.
Crown formation
Starting from 2-3 months, a young seedling should be pinched - it is necessary to remove from 0.5 to 2 centimeters from the top of the central conductor or side branches, and at the age of 12-18 months, pruning can be done, i.e. partially or completely remove shoots, branches, roots.
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Pruning is done in the spring 2-4 months after transplantation. During the dormant period, neither pinching nor pruning is performed.
2 days before the crown begins to form, adenium should be watered so that the plant does not experience water deficiency.
The cut is made either with a paper cutter, a blade or a stainless steel knife.
The cut is made 3-4 mm above the dormant bud.
Wipe the blade with alcohol after each cut.
Wipe the juice secreted by the plant with a napkin.
As soon as the adenium stops secreting juice, treat the cut area with garden balsam or RanNet garden paste.
Water should not get into the wounds after cutting, which can lead to tissue rotting.
If 2-3 weeks after pruning you are not satisfied with the number of replacement shoots, the procedure can be repeated, but remember that maximum depth The cuttings should be above the buds of the first pair of true leaves.
When forming the crown, do not forget that the plant secretes poisonous juice and therefore your hands must be washed with soap. And if you have wounds or abrasions on your hands, use gloves.
For a gardener, transplanting adenium at home is another step towards creating a unique, beautifully flowering succulent with unusual appearance. All actions during transplantation work with adenium are much different from similar events with other indoor plants.
After all, this flower must not only be moved to a larger container and the old soil mixture replaced with a fresh substrate, but also whole line procedures aimed at the formation of a spectacular adenium caudex. And this is not just pruning the root system, but a whole creative science. Having comprehended it, the gardener understands how to plant a succulent correctly in order to end up with an amazing plant created with his own hands.
A grown living organism is capable of not only impressing others with its appearance, but also charming and sometimes stunning with its complex interweaving of roots or unusual sculpture. So much so that after the question: “What kind of Jerusalem artichoke is this?” the exclamation immediately sounded: “I want this for myself too!”
The material of the flower container for growing adenium rather depends on the taste of the flower owner - some people prefer plastic pots, others prefer to plant the succulent in a ceramic container. The only difference will be the watering regime, because in clay containers the soil mixture dries out faster compared to plastic ones.
However, it is worth focusing the attention of beginning adenium growers on the fact that root system in a succulent it is powerful enough to destroy the walls of a clay pot, while at first it stretches plastic, and the need for replanting immediately becomes apparent.
The shape of the container depends on what kind of roots the flower has. If adenium is grown with roots growing to the sides, a shallow vessel with a large diameter is selected, allowing the root system to develop in breadth.
Flower growers should be reminded that in adenium it grows much faster than the above-ground part, therefore, when replanting, they take this point into account when choosing the size of the pot. Its diameter should be twice the circumference of the root system. However, you shouldn’t overdo it, the succulent will not entwine everything with its roots until inner space a new vessel will not bloom.
Some varieties and varieties, for example, Somali adenium, have vertical growth. For such plants, choose a deep pot and small in diameter. Finally, it is important to remind flower growers that natural conditions adeniums develop into large specimens with a powerful root system. If its growth is not restrained in indoor culture, then after a decade the succulent will grow, occupy half the room and evict the residents from it.
Soil for adenium: main components and possible soil mixture options
Adeniums, like most succulents, feel comfortable in loose, breathable soil, half consisting of light ingredients. Important and good layer drainage For the rest, you should be guided by the climate of the area and those room conditions, which are typical for a particular home.
Leaf soil and coconut substrate are used as the basis for composing the substrate. Sand, perlite, coconut chips, vermiculite, small crumbs of broken brick, ceramis, orchiata, and small pebbles for aquariums successfully serve as leavening agents. Fertilizers are also added - vermicompost, granulated or rotted manure, humus.
If adenium is grown in areas where all year round saved heat air, the substrate is composed of 70% base and 30% baking powder and fertilizer. In areas with hot summers and cool winters or moderately cool weather throughout the year, the volume of the base does not exceed 40-50%, the rest is leavening agents and nutritional components.
Experts who grow adenium in temperate latitudes recommend making a soil mixture for succulents from the following components:
- leaf soil - preferably collected from under birch or linden trees;
- leavening agents - coconut fibers, vermiculite, peat, perlite or well-washed coarse grain river sand(it is not advisable to use marine);
- fertilizers - horse or chicken manure granules.
Expanded polystyrene chips, small fractions of expanded clay, and pieces of broken brick with sharp edges recommended by many manufacturers are not always effective in use; sometimes they damage the roots or become entangled between them so that it is impossible to remove them during the replanting process.
The acidity level of the prepared soil mixture is desirable in the range of 5.5–7. Some gardeners add charcoal or some antifungal agent, for example, trichodermin, to the resulting composition to prevent rotting. However, experienced adenium growers do not see the point in this, since most plant rots are of bacterial origin.
If it is not possible to make a soil mixture for adenium yourself, buy ready-made soil for succulents at a flower shop and add vermiculite or perlite to it.
Young specimens are replanted annually, more mature plants - once every 2-3 years. Best time for transplantation work with adeniums – early spring or the end of winter, when active growth of the flower has not yet begun, although it can be replanted in the summer. The main thing is that at the time of transplantation there is at least a month left before the start of a significant drop in autumn temperatures.
So, step-by-step instruction for adenium transplantation:
- A few days before replanting, the flower is thoroughly watered to ensure free removal of the roots from the pot.
- Having tilted the flower container and holding the plant with one hand, carefully remove its roots with the other.
- Inspect the root system to see if there are any damaged or rotten areas.
- If any are found, remove them, dry the sections and sprinkle with charcoal powder.
- A drainage layer made of expanded clay or other material is placed at the bottom of the new vessel and a layer of sand is poured on top so that it covers the drainage layer.
- Pour the substrate to the level needed to deepen the root system of the flower 1–3 cm higher than in the previous container.
- Place the root system in the pot carefully so as not to damage the fleshy roots; if necessary, fix it with toothpicks or other devices to obtain the desired shape of the caudex.
At first, they care for the plant, observing necessary recommendations for caring for adenium after transplantation.
Landing on a disc: your own and Thai tricks
The technology for forming the adenium caudex in the form of an octopus has spread at the instigation of Thai specialists. Domestic flower growers have changed it a little, but the essence remains the same - the root system of a young plant is cut off and planted on top of a thin plate of tin, cut in the shape of a circle.
For these purposes, it is best to use, they initially have a root system formed along the edge of the cut. However, a seedling with an already plump caudex is quite suitable for such a procedure. Its root is cut off at the place where the caudex begins to decrease in diameter towards the bottom.
The Thais dry the cut, immediately place the plant on a disk and sprinkle it with soil mixture. If a constant temperature of 28–30 degrees above zero is maintained during the rooting of the future “octopus,” the technology gives the expected result. In temperate latitudes it is not always possible to maintain such a temperature level environment, so cut succulents often rot.
Domestic flower growers have made their own amendment to the Thai technology and root the cuttings first in water, perlite or in a mixture of vermiculite and perlite and plant it with the roots on a disk. Add soil for adenium in a layer of 1–2 cm and secure the roots with matches or toothpicks so that they grow beautifully, evenly and without getting tangled. "Octopuses" are watered more often than other plants because their roots are located in top layer earthen coma, drying out faster than at depth.
Caring for adenium immediately after transplantation
Transplanted adeniums are placed in a moderately lit place under diffused rays of sunlight. If damaged roots are found during transplantation and they are removed, and the cut areas are dried and treated with charcoal, the plant is not watered for about a week.
If the weather outside is humid and cloudy, after transplanting, do not water it for several days or moisten it very sparingly. A plant with healthy roots begins to be watered after a couple of days, observing the usual moisture regime. However, in hot weather, the succulent needs moisture immediately after transplantation, otherwise the crown will begin to wither.
After transplantation, they begin a month later and use the usual scheme - once every 2 weeks with fertilizers for succulents, halving the doses suggested by the manufacturer.
Possible problems after transplantation
The most common problem that befalls the gardener during adenium transplantation and immediately after its completion is. It happens as a result of waterlogging of the earthen coma in conditions low temperatures. Rotten roots are removed and the sections are dried, only after that they are processed and the plant is replanted in a new substrate.
The soil mixture for growing Adenium must have high drainage properties, low moisture capacity and the presence of nutrients.
To ensure drainage properties add to the mixture (optional): sand, perlite, slag, brick chips, gravel, bark, nut shells, charcoal. These materials make up (30-70)% of the volume of the soil mixture, depending on its recipe. In addition to providing high drainage properties, they have low moisture holding capacity.
The moisture capacity of the soil mixture increases by adding to its composition (to choose from): turf soil, compost, leaf humus, clay (loam). These materials make up up to 40% of the volume of the soil mixture, depending on the recipe and, as an additional plus, they contain nutrients.
The nutritional value of the mixture increases due to the addition of organic and mineral fertilizers. Organic fertilizers can constitute up to 20% of the volume of the soil mixture. Cattle humus is most often used as a component of the soil mixture.
The optimal acidity of the soil mixture is pH (6.5-7.8). The acidity of the mixture is an important indicator - it ensures the availability of nutrients to the plant.
For plants whose caudex is more than 1.5 cm (1/2″) in diameter, cultivated in a temperate continental climate, I recommend the following composition of the soil mixture: 1 part turf soil + 1 part leaf humus + 1 part cow humus + 3 parts sand ( fraction 2-3mm). After preparation, sterilize the soil mixture.
For planting, you can use ready-made mixtures. If there are no mixtures for adenium on sale, then you can purchase a ready-made soil mixture for planting cacti or other succulent plants. Add 30% sand (of the volume of the mixture) to the cactus mixture and use it for planting adenium.
When preparing the soil, I do not recommend replacing sand with perlite, due to the fact that it is washed out of the soil. upper layers, and accumulates on the surface of the substrate, spoiling the appearance of the composition.
Choosing a pot
A mandatory requirement when choosing a pot is the presence of a drainage hole.
Adenium, in the first years, develops a powerful vertical root, so young plants are planted in classic, deep pots. A mature plant (caudex diameter from 6 cm) is planted in a shallow pot or bowl, since its root system mainly develops to the sides.
The size of the pot is chosen equal to two diameters of the caudex.
The material of the pot is not particularly important: both plastic and ceramic pots are used. At further cultivation adenium, we take into account the fact that the soil dries out faster in an unglazed ceramic pot than in a plastic or coated ceramic pot. As the plant's roots grow, they push the walls of the pot and quite often destroy it. Therefore, when growing a mature plant, the most practical is considered to be a cup-shaped pot - a bowl.
Adenium transplant
The optimal time for transplantation is the end of winter, the beginning of spring (for the temperate zone), i.e. before the start of active growth. Plant replanting should not be delayed, because by autumn the adenium roots must fill the entire volume of soil in the pot, otherwise the likelihood of putrefactive diseases will increase.
Young plants are replanted 1-2 times a year, adults - 1 time every two years.
When transplanting a young plant, the old soil is completely removed. If a mature plant is being replanted, it is also advisable to remove all the old soil (it is convenient to wash it away with a stream of water).
In adenium breeding culture, replanting in some cases is carried out without removing the old soil, i.e. the plant, together with a lump of earth, is placed in a container bigger size, A free space filled with fresh soil.
I recommend removing the old soil completely, since over time it changes its structure due to the decomposition of its constituent components. There is also an accumulation of salts in the soil, which enter it when watering with hard water, or accumulate during fertilizing. Accumulated salts change the acidity of the soil mixture, and this already creates a problem in the nutrition of the plant.
After removing the old soil, we inspect the root system for defects. Next, if necessary, we trim the roots. Sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal powder.
In the planting pot, cover the drainage hole with a shard, but so as not to block the water that should flow through it.
If the plant's large roots are damaged, then after replanting the adenium is not watered for 7 days - this is the time necessary for the healing of the damage received by the plant during replanting. If there was no damage to large roots, then you can water immediately after transplanting.
To form fancy shapes, when transplanting, adenium is raised above the soil level by 1-3 cm.
After the first watering, the surface of the substrate can be mulched with gravel or brick chips.
According to experts universal composition there is no soil for growing a tree. However, there are several rules that need to be taken into account when composing the substrate:
- The soil should have a light structure and allow water and oxygen to pass through well.
- The soil should not cake, so you need to add baking powder to it.
- The substrate should be selected to be moisture-absorbing, and it is important to carefully select components that do not over-moisten the soil.
- The acidity of the earth should be closer to neutral.
Important. The correct choice of soil, if necessary, can compensate for the lack of light and humidity.
This will allow the plant to actively develop and bloom profusely, despite minor microclimate deficiencies (at home?).
What kind of soil should I plant in?
Not only at home, but also at open ground. The soil requirements in both cases are almost the same; it is enough to follow the criteria described above.
Planting at home
For growing Adenium at home You can prepare the soil yourself or use specialized substrates.
Stores offer big choice ready-made mixtures soil suitable for planting succulents.
Let's look at some of them:
- Universal primer for indoor flowers. Sold in all garden stores, it is quite cheap, but may be of poor quality. Such substrates have a fairly dense structure and require large quantity raising agents. The mixture is nutritious, but the composition of microelements is not always suitable for Adenium.
- Special soil for succulents. It has an optimal composition and neutral acidity, but is not sterile and requires disinfection. It is quite expensive and is not sold in all stores. The mixtures are dense and moisture-intensive and require watering adjustments.
- Coco soil as a basis for preparing soil for Adenium yourself. Sterile substrate, sold in all specialized stores. affordable price. Lightweight, breathable, durable, non-caking, neutral acidity. The mixture is inert and requires the addition of fertilizers.
- Deciduous humus soil. You can buy or get it yourself. When preparing the substrate, it is mixed with coco soil and baking powder. Ideal for succulents, but requires sterilization.
Attention. Adenium requires loose soil, so all presented mixtures are mixed with raising agents.
Each gardener has his own preferences, the main thing is to choose the right ratio. The following can be used as leavening agents:
- Perlite.
- Vermiculite.
- Zeolite.
- Coarse sand.
- Charcoal.
- Pumice.
- Brick chips.
When preparing the soil yourself, it must be disinfected from harmful microorganisms by calcination or treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.
Landing on the street
- peat;
- coarse river sand;
- perlite or vermiculite.
Making your own substrate
Attention. The composition of the mixture for planting Adenium directly depends on the microclimate in which the plant will grow.
- Hot temperatures above +25 degrees all year round and bright light. In such conditions, mixtures rich in nutrients are better suited, which will maximize the full potential of the tree.
When preparing the substrate, mix:
- 50-70% universal mixture for flowers or leafy humus soil.
- 20-30% vermiculite mixed with perlite.
- 10-20% charcoal.
Organic additives can be used.
- Warm, bright room with a temperature within 22-25 degrees, in winter period additional lighting is used. Used less nutritious soil, rich in minerals.
To do this, mix:
- 30% specialized mixture for succulents;
- 30% coco soil;
- 30% vermiculite and perlite in equal quantities;
- 10% charcoal.
- A darkened room with a temperature of up to 20 degrees. It is not recommended to grow the plant in such conditions, suitable soil cannot always compensate for the lack of heat and light.
Suitable inert mixtures consisting of:
- 60% coco soil;
- 30% perlite and zeolite;
- 10% charcoal.
Important. How less light and heat, the poorer the soil should be.
Consequences of the wrong choice
- Strong soil acidity or, conversely, alkaline environment lead to tree disease (learn about possible problems, diseases and pests of adenium are possible, and from there you will learn about the causes of desert rose diseases and methods of treatment). The plant cannot absorb nutrients and trace elements and stops developing.
- In moist and dense soil, the tree begins to rot; conditions are favorable for the development of harmful microorganisms.
- Excessive soil nutrition leads to lush growth of foliage, with scant flowering or its complete absence.
Adenium - unusual beautiful plant, which pleases with its flowering for a long time. The main condition for this is the choice of high-quality soil. Whether you purchase the substrate in a store or prepare it yourself, compliance with all requirements for its composition will give you the opportunity to enjoy the view flowering plant all year round.
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The soil for Adeniums is one of the most important components of health, good growth and abundant early flowering of your plant. Therefore, there is so much controversy, debate and disagreement around this topic.
Remember the main characteristics of the soil for Adenium:
1. Neutral acidity (PH value 5.8-7.0).
2. Air and water permeability.
3. Sterility.
I will not give examples of the soil composition of foreign breeders, since the choice of “ingredients” depends on climatic conditions and market characteristics.
Now let's look at each point in detail.
I will note right away that with proper watering, your adenium will not die even in simple soil for cacti, but in this case you have practically no right to make a mistake when watering, otherwise there is a very high probability of rotting of the root system, both having your own experience and strengthening your conclusions with the experience of Thai breeders, the soil for cacti without additives is still too dense for Adenium.
When choosing a substrate, it is very important to find the optimal balance of soil and inert disintegrants (up to 50%). If there are a lot of rippers, then the plant will not receive required quantity moisture and nutrition, since when watering the moisture will directly come out through the drainage holes of the pot; if there is little, the substrate will turn out dense, and this contributes to rotting and slow growth.
1. The degree of acidity or alkalinity of the soil affects big influence on the development of roots and the supply of nutrition to the plant. Soil is considered neutral if its pH is in the range of 5.8-7.0. If the coefficient is lower, the soil is considered acidic, if higher - alkaline. The PH level of purchased soils is always indicated on the packaging; if you are going to use garden or other soil, then there are special strips for measuring.
2. The earthen mixture for Adeniums is based on peat soil and coconut substrate and should contain up to 50% of inert disintegrants, such as perlite, vermiculite, river or quartz sand spilled with potassium permanganate (construction fine sand is not suitable!), fine charcoal (not to be confused with activated), small expanded clay, zeolite, coconut chips, coconut fiber; in extreme cases, you can use pine nut shells, broken bricks, and foam balls. There are also other leavening agents, such as sphagnum moss and pine bark, but they are not suitable for adenium, as they have major disadvantages: acidic PH and excessive moisture holding capacity.
There are such concepts as permeable and moisture-absorbing soil; these two terms should not be combined or confused, usually they are mutually exclusive. Water permeability is the ability of soil to pass water; the degree of moisture permeability depends on the quantity and properties of the components that make up the soil.
Moisture capacity is the ability of the soil to absorb and retain moisture, giving it to the plant in portions; the degree of moisture capacity also depends on the components included in the composition.
Detailed description each of these components can be read in the article “Soil and inert disintegrants”.
3. Perlite, vermiculite, charcoal, zeolite, coconut chips, coconut fiber, peat and coconut substrate are sterile substances. The sand and soil will need to be disinfected; if you are a supporter of calcination, steaming, or spilling the soil with a bright red solution of potassium permanganate, then you need to prepare the soil in advance, at least 2 weeks before replanting, to restore the microflora. There is also a sterilization method - freezing the soil, but this method does not give 100% effect.
So, before giving examples of soil mixtures for adeniums, I would like to quote the sensible words of one Indian owner of the Adenium plantation, Mr. Haysoti: “The compounds in the substrate themselves do not mean much. They must be tied to the environmental, climatic and cultural conditions of your residence and then , together you can give good result". I fully subscribe to these words.
Substrate options for Adenium:
1. 30% coconut substrate + 30% cactus soil + 15% vermiculite + 15% perlite + 10% river sand and/or charcoal. This is a universal earthen mixture, suitable for most climatic conditions in Russia.
2. 50% soil for cacti and succulents or universal flower soil + 15% vermiculite + 25% perlite + 10% river sand and/or charcoal. Also a popular compound substrate.
3. 50% coconut soil + 30% perlite + 10% vermiculite + 10% charcoal, sand and other leavening agents. Suitable for cool summers and cool conditions, as well as for “irrigators”.
4. 30% soil for cacti or Universal flower soil + 30% high peat + 20% perlite + 20% vermiculite. Suitable for hot dry summers and for dryers.
Another important note:
When composing the soil mixture for adenium, take into account the peculiarity of the planting container; if you are a lover of ceramics, then the peculiarity of this material is that it is a good heat insulator, which means that it takes a long time to heat up, but also takes longer to cool down than plastic walls ceramic pot absorb soil moisture and the soil in it dries out longer, therefore you should not get carried away with moisture-intensive additives, such as vermiculite. With plastic pots, things are a little different; in plastic, the soil quickly takes on the ambient temperature, the soil dries out quickly, which means additives such as vermiculite, which retain moisture, will only be beneficial. And the cooler the conditions, the longer it takes to dry the soil, so be guided by this factor as well.
You can use the advice, or you can choose your own soil composition based on the capabilities and availability in stores. Don’t be afraid to experiment with making an earthen mixture yourself, the main thing is that the mixture meets the above requirements and conditions, and then the choice is yours.
