Advantages. Materials used

One of the most affordable and optimal methods for finishing facades in terms of thermal insulation is the so-called wet facade. This method gives a lot of scope for decorating a house, since the materials for the finishing coating have a rich color palette, new paint compositions are appearing that make it possible to create an interesting texture: mosaic, with imitation of stone or brickwork, or a “bark beetle” structure. Wet facade- This is a technology that is constantly being improved. It has become possible to purchase heat-insulating boards made of extruded polystyrene, on which a finishing layer has been applied in advance. This article explains what a wet façade is and when this technology is used.

The “wet facade” technology is also indispensable for improving the appearance and insulation of old buildings. Many facades of old holiday villages near Moscow are finished using this technology. Installation of the wet façade system does not create excessive load on the building’s load-bearing structures; this technology allows saving money needed to strengthen the foundation.

A wet façade involves installing thermal insulation on the outside of the house, therefore effective area housing does not decrease. And the comfort of housing increases - in the cold season the walls are not blown through or frozen, the temperature inside the room is distributed evenly. In hot months, the façade system avoids excessive heating of the building structures; the microclimate inside the house remains comfortable in both hot and rainy weather. An important characteristic of the system is that it improves the sound insulation of the house.

Thus, we can say that the use of such facade technology, like a wet facade, allows you to create an individual look for a house, significantly increase its service life and create comfortable conditions for the owners of the house.

Pie system

The “pie” of a wet facade consists of several layers that have a specific function. To create a thermal insulation layer, facade grade polystyrene foam is used, the material density is 16-17 kg/m3, an alternative is a mineral wool board with a density of 120-170 kg/m3. To determine the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, an accurate thermal calculation must be made.

To level the load-bearing wall and securely fix the heat-insulating boards, a reinforced layer is created. It serves as the basis for the outer layers and consists of an adhesive composition and a reinforcing fiberglass mesh that is resistant to alkalis.

To protect the entire “pie” and create decorative effects, a finishing layer is used; plaster compositions various types - silicate, silicone, mineral. At the final stage of installation of the “wet” facade, mineral plaster is painted with special paints. The use of mass-painted Seloxane plasters is often recommended. There is a version of the origin of the term “wet” facade, related to the fact that the plaster mixture for the finishing layer in production is produced in the form of a powder, which is diluted with water before application.

Before starting construction work, an accurate calculation should be made, and also check whether the system elements are compatible in terms of such indicators as thermal expansion, frost resistance, water resistance, and vapor permeability.

Mineral wool insulation has high vapor permeability, and if the finishing plaster does not allow water vapor to pass through well, the lingering moisture will soon destroy the decorative coating.

Sequence of installation operations and possible errors

The first stage of installation work is thorough surface preparation. The wall should be cleaned of dust and dirt, the fittings protruding from the wall, excess mortar in the brickwork, and any other protruding metal elements should be removed. Repair work may be required if there are cracks in the wall. The prepared wall is treated with a primer, this ensures reliable adhesion of the insulation to the wall surface. Careless wall preparation can lead, at best, to the appearance of rust stains, and at worst, to the complete collapse of the thermal insulation system.

Then you need to mount the base profile and window drain crutches; the base strips are installed strictly horizontally and serve as the basis for laying the first row of insulation. We need proper installation of gussets at the corners of door and window openings, plugs are required at the ends of the window sill ebbs; a violation of the technology at this stage may result in water entering the system and destruction of the facade system at the junction of the window sills.

How to glue insulation in a wet facade system

The next step is gluing the insulation boards to the wall. The glue is diluted in strict accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and applied to the insulation board. The glue is applied along the entire perimeter and additionally in at least six places over the area of ​​the slab. It is best to distribute the glue evenly if you use a comb spatula. The resulting grooves play a role expansion joints. The area covered with glue must be at least 40% of the entire area of ​​the insulation board.

The first row of insulation should be installed with a mandatory level check. Subsequent rows are glued using a knitting method, similar to brickwork; you need to ensure that the gaps between the plates are not 2-3mm. If these conditions are not met, cracks and tears will inevitably appear on the façade. When using a comb trowel, the resulting grooves play the role of expansion joints. The area covered with glue must be at least 40% of the entire area of ​​the insulation board.

After gluing the insulation, a short period of time is required for the glue to acquire the necessary strength. This period is indicated by the manufacturer and must be strictly observed. Then the insulation is secured using façade dowels. The closest attention must be paid to the quality of this type of hardware, since they bear the entire wind load.

The type of dowels is selected depending on the wall material and insulation, since there is a very wide range of hardware products on sale, it is necessary to consult a specialist in each specific case. The main types of dowels are driven ones with a spacer element in the form of a polypropylene nail, a nail made of glass-filled polyamide, a nail made of galvanized steel (fire-resistant version); screw ones, in which the role of a spacer element is played by a screw. To make the fastening more reliable, a booster cuff (randole) is used. There are dowels equipped with a thermal head; they are used to completely eliminate heat loss.

When calculating the number of dowels, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the system, the wind load, as well as in which area of ​​the façade the slab to be attached is located. On average, for a building with a small number of floors, which is what a country house is, 5–6 dowels per 1 sq. m. are sufficient. m.

One of the main mistakes at this stage is excessive penetration of the driven dowels into the insulation board. In this case, the seating area of ​​the dowel is deformed, and the adhesion force to the base decreases relative to the calculated level. If the disc-shaped dowel protrudes above the plane of the slab, bumps appear on the facade, spoiling the appearance.

How to secure reinforcing mesh

About a day after the installation of polystyrene foam boards is completed, a reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of them. It is not difficult to apply a plaster layer in which the mesh is embedded, but without experience, you can make mistakes.

First of all, the fiberglass mesh must be cut in advance, so that at the joints the mesh can be laid with an overlap of at least 10 mm. Lack of overlap is fraught with the formation of cracks. In order to cover possible defects that arose during the installation of insulation, you need to apply a “rough” layer of plaster into which the fiberglass mesh is embedded. The mesh threads should not be visible above the surface of the plaster; creases and wrinkles should not be allowed to form when laying the mesh. Then, after installing the mesh, a finishing layer of plaster is applied.

The mesh is made of fiberglass and impregnated with polymer compounds. The main requirement for the mesh is high resistance to alkalis; low-quality mesh can simply dissolve. High-quality fiberglass mesh is elastic, resistant to stretching and tearing, and the weaving points are securely fixed. The use of high-quality mesh is especially important in the Russian climate, as it reduces internal stresses, thereby preventing the process of facade cracking during sudden temperature changes.

When starting to create a protective and decorative layer of a wet facade, you need to choose decorative plaster, paying attention to its texture and vapor permeability indicators. The choice of decorative plasters and finishing paints on the modern market of finishing materials is very large, and the working methods for creating any decorative effects are also quite varied. At this stage, the owner of the house can fully express his imagination and use those materials and textures that will help give the house a unique look.

On our FORUMHOUSE website you will find sections that tell you in more detail how to install it correctly, what rules exist and where it should be located

High-quality insulation and finishing of the façade of the house guarantee significant savings in thermal energy, which is especially important in the context of constantly rising prices for energy resources. In addition, comprehensive work makes the house more attractive from an aesthetic point of view. Exist different methods insulation and decoration of buildings, but the wet facade is considered the most modern: the technology of this finishing method is described in detail in this article.

Wet insulation of facadesoutside or inside: features of choice

Traditional building materials used for the construction of walls, such as brick, wall and concrete blocks, are characterized by increased strength and sufficient for a long time services. However, they do not have a high level of thermal insulation, and therefore a significant part of the thermal energy simply evaporates through the walls. In order to prevent this undesirable process, the walls are insulated.

Insulation can be both internal and external. At the same time, the amount of material, the amount of work and the organization of the process inside the house are more profitable and cost less. At the same time, there are a number of serious arguments in favor of insulating the house from the outside.

External methods, which include wet facade insulation, require the presence of a so-called dew point - this is the zone where condensation is released under conditions of temperature changes both in the middle of the room and outside. If insulation is attached to the inside of a load-bearing wall, there is a high probability of condensation, which leads to increased humidity in the room. Therefore, this method of thermal insulation is less functional and even hazardous to health, since against the background of dampness, fungi and mold appear on the walls.

At external thermal insulation The level of thermal resistance or thermal inertia of the walls increases significantly. In other words, a building insulated from the outside retains heat for a longer time when the outside temperature drops significantly and warms up slowly in the summer heat.

When insulating a house externally, a wet facade eliminates all kinds of cold bridges, through which in most cases the main heat loss occurs when internal thermal insulation is installed.

What is a wet facade:technology features

The external method of insulating facades has its own classification. There are dry and wet technologies. The first option, in turn, includes prefabricated or curtain facades. The main material used in this technology is vinyl or metal siding. The wet facade system is considered more practical, highly efficient, economical and attractive in appearance.

Important! A distinctive feature of a wet façade is its multilayer nature, where each individual layer plays its own important role in the process of insulation and decoration. To fully realize the functions, preference should be given only to high-quality materials.

The use of the wet technique allows you to obtain not only good quality insulation, but also beautiful home decor. An important condition is the use of high-quality special solutions. The final stage is the process of applying plaster and painting - these are key components of the beautiful appearance of the building.

Wet façade technology involves creating a multi-layer cake on the outside. The layers are attached to the wall by applying special adhesive solutions, mastics and plaster, which are dissolved in ordinary water. Hence the name - wet facade. The work requires following a clear order of priority in applying layers: primer, adhesive mixture, thermal insulation boards, additional sizing, mesh reinforcement, plastering and painting.

Each phase involving the use of a wet method, be it gluing, plastering or painting, must be carried out at temperatures above +5 ° C. Not only the quality of work and the degree of thermal insulation, but also the service life of the decorative insulation depend on the sequence of work, materials and compliance with conditions. Otherwise, the facade will soon begin to crack and collapse.

Wet facade: pros and consexternal insulation technology

The wet insulation technology has a number of undeniable advantages and a certain number of disadvantages. The advantages include:

• high degree of decorativeness and attractiveness of the facade;
• lightness of the thermal insulation layer, which allows the technology to be used on buildings with weak foundations;
• reliable thermal insulation that retains heat in the house for a long time according to the principle of a thermos and eliminates the appearance of “cold bridges”;
• additional protection of the house from destructive atmospheric influences (moisture, freezing, wind);
• reliable sound and vibration insulation;
• durability (a façade made using wet technology can last up to 40 years);

• eliminates the appearance of condensation and, as a result, dampness in the house, which occurs thanks to the “breathable” external plaster;
• the cost of a wet facade is acceptable, especially in comparison with other methods of insulation;
• the technology does not “steal” useful space in the room.

Speaking about the advantages, we should also mention the disadvantages that this methodology has:

• work should be carried out under optimal temperature conditions outside (if the temperature is below +5 ° C, then it is almost impossible to achieve the desired result);
• each layer requires a certain time to dry, so unexpected precipitation can negatively affect the quality of insulation in the end;
• the ingress of dust and dirt during work also negatively affects the result, so the surface should be protected from the wind.

Helpful advice! Work on insulating a building with a wet facade cannot be carried out during rains. Therefore, it is better to plan installation for spring or summer, when there is much less rainfall.

Wet facade technology: step-by-step instructions

Based on the above advantages and disadvantages, the conclusion suggests itself that this technology makes it possible to create high-quality thermal insulation with minimal financial investment. Main principle– this is a clear step-by-step approach to applying all layers. The technology for performing the work includes three or four stages of forming a wet facade. The photos clearly demonstrate this. Each of the layers fulfills its functional purpose.

Layer of plaster	Main works	Function performed
Adhesive or preparatory	Preparing the base, installing fasteners and priming with glue	Determines the degree of reliability of fastening of the future structure
Thermal insulation	Fastening thermal insulation boards using glue and dowels	Provides the degree of insulation of building walls
Reinforcing	Includes installation of reinforcing mesh	Guarantees the strength and reliability of the structure and serves as the basis for the final finishing layer
Decorative	Application decorative plaster various ways and painting	Protects thermal insulation boards from atmospheric influences and ensures the external beauty of walls

All stages perform a number of important functions that ensure the overall reliability, strength and durability of the structure, so each of them requires a responsible approach and detailed study.

Wet facade: installation technologypreparatory stage

Before starting insulation work, care should be taken to prepare the basic foundation. For this purpose, the walls are thoroughly cleaned and all defects are eliminated. It is necessary to cover the cracks with mortar and level the surface. If the surface is heavily soiled, it is recommended to use detergents.

Next, the surface is tested for strength. To do this, small pieces of insulation are glued to the wall. If they hold securely and do not break into pieces, then you can begin installation. If they easily come off along with the top layer of the wall, then the stripping should be done again.

After full preparation The walls are coated with a primer. And after drying - a layer of glue. If the surface of the house consists of a material with increased absorption, then the soil layer should be more solid. It's better to apply it twice. Old plaster from windows and door slopes It is recommended to remove it in advance.

On preparatory stage care should be taken to install the profile strip. The base profile will help to evenly distribute the load from the insulation boards and protect the bottom row of insulation from moisture.

Helpful advice! A smooth process can be ensured by a special kit for facade insulation, sold in construction stores. The adhesive mixture for wet facades, Ceresite, has proven itself well.

The profile is mounted at a level of approximately 35-40 cm from the ground with a three-millimeter gap between the planks placed horizontally, in case expansion occurs under the influence of temperatures. The profile is attached directly to dowels or screws. Their number depends on the density and weight of the selected material for thermal insulation. Most often they are placed at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.

Thermal insulation stage for a wet facade: sequence of work

Installation of the heat-insulating layer is one of the main stages, as it involves fastening the insulation boards. The process itself requires adherence to a clear sequence and compliance with a number of rules.

Applying glue to the surface of the slab. The adhesive solution is distributed along the perimeter of the material in a wide strip, departing approximately 3 cm from the edge. In the middle, the glue is distributed pointwise. The main thing is that more than 40% of the slab area is covered with the adhesive mixture. If lamella mats serve as the thermal insulation layer, then the adhesive solution must be applied over the entire surface.

Laying slabs. The wet facade insulation technology involves installing insulation “in a running start”, similar to brickwork. In this case, the tiles should be pressed tightly against each other and against the wall. Any glue that comes out must be removed immediately. The installation process occurs from the bottom up, starting from the base profile. You will need to wait 3-4 days for the glue to dry completely.

Fastening slabs with dowels. At the next stage, the thermal insulation layer should be additionally secured with dowels. Their length should be selected based on the thickness of the insulation layer, adhesive solution and the allowance for recess into the wall. If the density of the insulation for a wet facade is high, then 5 cm is enough for the recess margin; for porous materials this figure should reach 8-9 cm. For 1 m² of surface you will need from 7 to 15 dowels. Their number depends on the density of the insulating boards, the diameter of the fasteners and the height of the insulation.

Even before installing the dowel, a nest is prepared under it. If fastened correctly, the clamping bushings will be placed close to the insulation.

Wet facade: technologylaying the reinforcing layer

A reinforced base is necessary to ensure a reliable level of adhesion of decorative plaster on top of the insulation. For this purpose, a special mesh is attached to an adhesive base, recessed into the middle. Installation of the reinforcing layer begins at least two days after applying the heat-insulating layer.

Helpful advice! For strengthening, it is recommended to use an alkali-resistant mesh made from fiberglass with a reliable coating. Otherwise, within a year the reinforcing layer will begin to deteriorate, and the plaster will simply crumble.

First, the mesh is attached to the corner slopes in the openings of windows and doors, as well as at the junction of vertical slopes and lintels. Then they move on to the corners of the building from the outside, and finally to the remaining areas.

Related article:

Selecting the type of insulation. Features of materials, their advantages and disadvantages. The main stages of insulation installation.

The process itself involves applying a layer of special glue. Then a special fiberglass reinforcing mesh is gradually carefully embedded into it. It is laid overlapping, which ensures the formation of a reliable reinforced base. Excess material is cut off. The total thickness of the reinforcing layer should be a maximum of 6 mm, while the mesh itself is located two millimeters from the surface of the insulation.

When creating a wet façade on buildings with increased loads or on basement floors, it is necessary to use a reinforced armored mesh that can withstand higher loads. It is the reinforcing layer that plays a big role in the strength of the entire structure. It ensures the wall's resistance to atmospheric and mechanical influences. It is equally important that the mesh resists the alkaline effects of aggressive components contained in the plaster solution.

Wet façade plaster:decorative layer application technology

The finishing layer plays a dual role, as it is responsible for the external attractiveness of the walls and at the same time serves as protection for the thermal insulation layer from external negative influences. In this case, the plaster must have a certain porosity in order to allow excess condensation to pass through, allowing the wall to “breathe”.

Decorative finishing is the final phase in the installation process performed using wet facade technology. Plaster begins to be applied only after the reinforcing layer has completely dried. To do this you will have to wait about a week. At the same time, in addition to high decorative qualities, the plastered surface must meet a number of requirements:

• have a high degree of vapor permeability;
• be resistant to atmospheric influences in the form of rain, snow, fog and other precipitation, as well as to the influence of direct sunlight;
• have high resistance to mechanical damage.

In order for the plaster to lay easily on the insulation, the plates must fit tightly to each other. The permissible error is maximum 3 mm. Otherwise, the next two layers will not be able to mask the flaws, which will affect the appearance of the entire structure. You will either have to apply a very thick layer of plaster, or put up with the unevenness. This fact indicates that it is necessary to select high-quality materials, as well as use a special plaster mixture for exterior work.

Helpful advice! The quality of work and the longevity of the plaster service are affected by compliance with the temperature regime. As in the case of fastening slabs, the working mixture should be applied at a temperature of at least +5 ° C. The maximum value is +30 °C, since excessive exposure to sunlight can negatively affect the quality of the plaster.

Variety of types of plaster finishing wet facade

The final stage in the complex of works to create a facade using the wet method is the application of a plaster layer. To organize a thermal insulation layer, a variety of decorative finishing techniques are used, the main ones will be discussed below.

Mineral plaster. The material is a binding mixture based on Portland cement. The main advantage of this type of coating is its high level of strength and vapor permeability. This type of finish is resistant to moisture, does not become damp or deteriorate. The next advantage is affordable price. The disadvantages include narrow choice colors

Silicate plaster is a type of mineral plaster, as it contains. It is well suited for decorating aerated concrete and foam block walls, as well as for use as part of wet facade technology, since it has a high level of vapor permeability. However, it should be noted that before applying it, you will definitely need to cover the surface with a layer of a special primer.

Acrylic plaster basically contains resin in the form of an aqueous dispersion. The positive qualities of the material are elasticity and a high degree of adhesion in relation to different surfaces. To prevent cracking, acrylic is applied in a thin layer onto a reinforced fiberglass mesh treated with a sealant.

Silicone plaster has a number of unique properties, it is very flexible and viscous. Even if the building subsides, a wall coated with a silicone layer will not crack. This finish is available in a wide range of colors and has self-cleaning properties. Thus, the wall itself will be cleaned of dust and dirt under the influence of precipitation.

The basis of a wet facade: materials for work

Having examined in detail all stages of the work, a novice master will be able to assess his strength in terms of independently installing a wet facade with insulation. If a positive decision is made, then care should be taken to have a full arsenal of materials and tools. The list below will take into account all the details. So, this technology requires the presence of basic materials:

1. Thermal insulation boards as a base material require a special approach in selection. You should calculate in advance the thickness of the slabs, on which the degree of thermal insulation depends, and study the characteristics of different insulation materials.
2. The base profile is selected taking into account the width and thickness of the selected thermal insulation boards. The quantity is calculated based on the size of the building.
3. The mesh for the wet facade, which serves to strengthen the entire structure, is most often a rolled material made of fiberglass. For buildings with heavy loads, more reliable meshes are used.
4. Wet facade adhesive is used to fix slabs. It is selected in accordance with the selected insulation.
5. Decorative plaster is applied at the final stage. You can use ready-made formulations.

Helpful advice! When choosing materials for the manufacture of a wet facade, they are primarily guided by the qualities and features of the selected insulation. For example, mineral wool adhesive is not suitable for fixing foam boards and vice versa.

Additional materials for creating a wet facade with your own hands

The above list of materials is considered basic, but far from exhaustive. If you don't take care of purchasing complete set before making a wet facade, a number of inconveniences and difficulties may arise during the implementation of the project.

The primer is applied at the preparatory stage in order to ensure better adhesion of the slabs and the wall. The type of primer is selected in accordance with the type of decorative plaster.

The composition for plastering the protective and reinforced layers is applied directly to the insulation, although it is often confused with decorative plaster. These are different compositions - and this should be taken into account. One of the main differences is the higher price of finishing plaster.

The paint is intended for decorating walls and serves as a certain protection against atmospheric influences. Do not neglect this material and save on it.

A necessary component are mushroom-shaped dowels. It would seem like a trifle, but without them, reliable fixation of the slabs will not be ensured. Therefore, you should take care of purchasing them in advance.

Dowels for attaching the base are a separate element, very important even at the preparatory stage. The length of the dowel nails depends on the material of the wall where the profile is attached. During the installation of the base, you should also ensure that there are special elements for connection at bends and corners.

In order to purchase a complete set, manufacturers offer comprehensive systems, which already include all the necessary materials and tools for creating a wet facade. At the same time, not every set takes into account the individual needs of the owners, and therefore you need to be careful when purchasing such sets.

Tools necessary for insulating walls with a wet facade

The list of tools for performing work using wet facade technology should include almost the entire arsenal of an experienced builder and a number of special devices that will significantly facilitate and speed up the process. In particular, you will need:

• a square necessary for marking right angles and 45° angles;
• construction level, designed to determine the degree of deviation of parts from surfaces in the horizontal or vertical direction;
• tape measure for measuring the length and width of various materials;
• a plumber's hammer designed to work with different materials;
• saw with fine teeth for cutting foam materials;
• construction mixer for mixing dry construction mixtures of sand, plaster, glue, putty;
• rollers for priming at different stages and for painting the finishing layer of decorative plaster;
• Swiss trowels, used to coat the surface with various mixtures and smooth them;
• a trowel with teeth, used for gluing and fixing the reinforcing layer using the “sinking” method;

• a simple plastic trowel for applying putty and plaster compositions;
• trowel for convenient mixing of the solution;
• spatulas and trowels of various sizes;
• cutter for deepening dowels when attaching slabs to the wall;
• sealant gun.

Helpful advice! You should take care of purchasing tools at the preparatory stage. This list is maximum and extensive, but it is possible that additional tools may be needed during the work.

Insulation for wet facades: variety of materials and features of choice

Facade insulation materials are divided into two large groups – products made of expanded polystyrene and mineral wool. Foam materials are lightweight, quick to install and have a high level of thermal protection. The main disadvantage of the material is its flammability. Mineral wool for a wet facade costs an order of magnitude more, while being more reliable in its performance qualities. Plates made of this material do not burn and have a high level of vapor permeability.

The density of mineral wool for a wet facade must be at least 150 kg/m³, and the tensile strength must be at least 15 kPa. It is recommended to give preference in choosing slabs made of basalt fiber. As for polystyrene foam, for insulation work you should choose a special-purpose material with low flammability. Experts do not recommend using extruded polystyrene foam in this area, which has low vapor permeability characteristics and weak adhesion to the adhesive solution.

IN different conditions Various types of insulation boards are used. The choice is guided by the physical and chemical characteristics of the insulation, based on its specific purpose. Moreover, each group of insulation has its own classification.

Mineral wool under a wet facade: materials for manufacturing and their advantages

So, mineral wool slabs are ideally suited for finishing facades. This advantage is due to a number of specific positive characteristics:

• durability;

• fire resistance;
• excellent vapor permeability;
• high level of heat and sound insulation;
• resistance to chemical and biological substances;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation.

In addition, certain types of wool, in particular products with phenolic binders, are characterized by a high level of moisture resistance. The most preferred are diabase or basalt wool slabs for wet facades. The price of such insulation is significantly higher than other analogues, but this is the case when they pay for quality.

Since the strength of mineral wool should start from 15 kPa, and the material itself should not react with the plaster, the use of fiberglass slabs in this area is impractical. This is due to the fact that such mineral wool is easily destroyed in an alkaline environment and does not have sufficient tensile strength.

Fiberglass boards will begin to crumble under the influence of alkalis contained in the base reinforced layer and adhesive solution. The pH level of these materials averages 12.5. The corresponding reaction does not begin immediately, but after a couple of years. Destruction occurs especially intensively under the influence strong winds. Thus, very quickly a wet façade made of fiberglass slabs will become unusable.

Additional qualities as criteria for choosing mineral insulation for a wet facade

An important indicator in choosing thermal insulation boards is the moisture absorption coefficient. It is desirable that its level be at around 15%, since moisture absorbed into the material will lead to its inevitable deformation and negatively affect thermal conductivity. Boards with a high degree of moisture absorption do not provide the required level of solidity of the facade. As a result, such a design will not last more than two years.

Helpful advice! The mineral wool density of a wet facade should range from 150 to 180 kg/m³. Otherwise, the process of applying the finishing layer becomes more complicated and there is a risk of delamination of the entire thermal insulation coating of the facade.

The technology of a wet facade using mineral wool involves selecting slabs in such a way that the degree of vapor permeability from the first (preparatory) to the last (decorative) layer gradually increases. Compliance with this requirement will provide favorable conditions and prevent condensation in the middle of the structure. In the climatic conditions of Russia most of the time throughout the year temperature indicators inside houses is much higher than outside. Such conditions significantly increase the likelihood of condensation occurring.

Wet facade made of foam plastic: features of the material and requirements for its selection

Another group of insulation materials, the main raw material in the production of which is polystyrene foam, also has a certain list of positive qualities. It should be noted here:

• low cost;
• lightness of the material;
• high thermal and sound insulation;
• vapor permeability;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation.

The list of disadvantages of foam plastic boards significantly exceeds similar characteristics mineral wool. The main disadvantage is the flammability of the material. In order to eliminate this shortcoming, manufacturers treat the insulation with special chemicals - fire retardants. Thus, even in the event of a fire, the spread of fire will be stopped, that is, the flame can go out on its own.

Fire safety is also ensured by special inserts made of non-combustible materials, in particular mineral wool. The use of this method led to the emergence of a separate combined material.

Other disadvantages of the material include a low degree of bioprotection. Insects and even rodents can live in the foam. Also, expanded polystyrene boards are more fragile, which creates certain problems during the installation process, and are less wear-resistant in operation.

Requirements for polystyrene foam boards for wet facades: price and quality

Before you buy material for a wet polystyrene foam facade, you should study its characteristics and compliance with all requirements. It must have a tensile strength of at least 100 kPa and have a density of 15 to 25 kg/m³.

Helpful advice! Selection of material in accordance with all requirements for it and its correct installation with strict adherence to the technology of installing a wet facade using insulation, its service life is guaranteed for 20-30 years. Repairs to the decorative layer will have to be done a little more often, but the costs will be significantly lower.

High-quality material can be determined even by external data. The insulation granules should fit as tightly as possible to each other and have approximately the same size. Otherwise, such foam will bring a maximum of problems, starting from the installation process and ending with direct operation. Low-quality coarse-grained material absorbs an increased amount of moisture, which, in turn, entails its deformation and leads to loss of thermal insulation qualities and premature destruction of the facade

The shape of thermal insulation boards made of polystyrene foam should be the same as that of a regular rectangle. The error is allowed no more than 2 mm per 1 m. Differences in the thickness of the insulation can be a maximum of 1 mm, and the deviation on the surface of the front plane should not exceed 0.5%. Otherwise, it is impossible to insulate the facade of the house without defects. A wet facade from the outside will have poor aesthetic characteristics, and its service life will be reduced several times.

Consumption of materials for arranging a wet facade: photos of private houses

As with other types of construction work, the consumption of materials is approximately based on the required amount per 1 m² of finished wet facade. Insulating a house from the outside involves the following costs:

• primers will need approximately 250 milliliters per 1 m²;
• adhesive solution for fixing heat-insulating boards is used at the rate of 10 kg per 1 m²;
• the consumption of the insulation itself with a slab thickness of at least 5 cm corresponds to the insulated area;
• You will need about 5 dowels per 1 m² for fastening the slabs;
• mesh for a wet facade is consumed at the rate of 1.3 m² per 1 m²;
• plaster for the leveling layer should be purchased based on the needs of 0.3 kg per 1 m²;

• primer consumption for the finishing layer is approximately 0.3 kg per 1 m²;
• ready-made decorative plaster will need about 3 kg per 1 m².

In order to correctly calculate the required amount of materials, you need to follow the instructions on the material packages, or it is better to purchase ready-made kits. The Ceresit wet façade system has proven itself well in this market segment. Technology facade insulation using mineral wool slabs requires the use of the Ceresit WM brand.

For insulation using foam plastic using wet facade technology, Ceresit is marked VWS. Thermal insulation boards are treated with an adhesive composition and mounted on the wall; a special protective layer with reinforced fiberglass mesh is applied on top. The system of the appropriate brand contains all the necessary materials.

Price components for installing a wet façade per m2

The price of a finished wet facade includes the total cost of preparatory, installation and decorative work. The main costs are for materials based on their cost per 1 m² for a blank wall.

Important! The main component of the total cost of a wet facade is the price of insulation, which depends on its type, density and mineral additives.

The total cost of the finished system is the total price of the constituent components:

• glue mixture for fastening insulation;
• plaster mortar for the base;
• mixtures for decorative plaster;
• fiberglass mesh for reinforced layer;
• dowels and other fasteners;
• two types of primer;
• thermal insulation boards.

Off-the-shelf systems usually do not take into account the cost of additional and optional parts, various profiles and auxiliary fasteners. Also, not all manufacturers offer thermal insulation materials as a package. In this case, you should keep in mind the average cost of insulation. For example, the average price of mineral wool for a wet facade 10 cm thick is about 650 rubles. for 1 m². The cost of expanded polystyrene according to the same indicators – about 250 rub.

Thus, the price of a wet facade per m² with mineral wool slabs will be about 1,200 rubles. A thermal insulation system made of polystyrene foam will cost much less - about 750 rubles. for 1 m².

Arrangement of a wet facade: cost of work form² to order

The total costs of installing insulation and decorating it include payment for the services of craftsmen or contractors. This is the case if the work is not carried out independently. The total price ranges from 1000 to 2500 rubles per square meter. It all depends on the total scope of work, the type of materials and the method of decoration finished wall. The main components and average price of installing a wet facade are shown in the table below:

Type of work performed	Cost, rub./m²
Installation and dismantling of scaffolding for construction	130 – 150
Surface primer taking into account deep penetration	60 – 90
Attaching insulation with adhesive and leveling the wall	370 – 450
Installation of reinforcing layer with base plaster layer and flush sealing	330 – 370
Primer of the wall using quartz sand	65 – 75
Decorative plastering of various types	240 – 350
Decorating with stone on the façade plinth	870 – 920

The wide range of prices for wet plastering of facades is justified by the varying degrees of complexity of the decoration process. The list may also include additional work, for example, installation of decorative elements. Their cost is calculated separately and depends on the complexity.

Additional factors affecting the cost of wet façade work

The above services and their cost are not constant. The list can be much longer, and the price increases due to additional costs. The final price per m² of a turnkey wet façade depends on a number of additional factors. In particular, you should consider:

• the original appearance and structure of the facade;

• the presence of flaws and damage;
• level of complexity of the work performed;
• the total number of openings for doors and windows, as well as their location;
• quality characteristics of materials and their quantity;
• total amount of work.

Helpful advice! The cost is calculated individually for each specific case. Sometimes, even with an identical list of work and the same processing area, the price can differ significantly.

Thus, the final cost includes additional costs. For example, labor-intensive work at high altitude will require the installation of auxiliary scaffolding. The cost of their rental depends on the height and period of use. It should also be taken into account that work at heights is much more expensive, as it requires special skills and the organization of insurance. The price formation is influenced by the costs associated with delivery and the features of individual facades.

Installation of a wet system will cost an order of magnitude cheaper than arrangement, but its further operation will cost more. Wet facade technology is usually used for insulating private houses, and ventilated facade technology is used for finishing larger buildings. Let's look at what this is connected with below.

Ventilated facades: pricedictated by quality

Speaking about the scope of application of the wet facade method, it is worth mentioning such a feature as limited resistance to the effects of temperature changes. Based on many years of research, the European Association of Plaster-type Thermal Insulation Systems has come to the conclusion that wet façade technology is not appropriate in all climatic conditions.

Even the most reliable and expensive materials and installation in compliance with all requirements do not provide a long-term guarantee of service in the inland climate of temperate latitudes, which prevails over a significant part of the territory of Russia. The scientists of the association took grapes, or rather not the plant itself, but its ripening cycle, as the starting point for using the wet façade system. That is, in an area where climatic conditions allow the ripening of at least one of its varieties, the use of technology is advisable.

In conditions of constant rain and high humidity, for example, in close proximity to the sea, the use of this technology is undesirable. This is due to the poor moisture resistance of this type of facade. If the wall is subject to frequent mechanical stress, then installing a wet facade is also not recommended.

Based on the listed contraindications, an alternative plaster-type facade technology was invented in the form of a suspended thermal insulation system with an air gap. In other words, a ventilated façade. What are the similarities, differences and advantages of this type of building insulation - we will look further.

Helpful advice! You can check the quality of thermal insulation under a ventilated and wet façade using a thermal imager. Warm colors in the photo show heat loss, and dark colors show the heat resistance of the walls.

Comparative characteristics of ventilated and wet facades: photos of houses and buildings

The hanging system differs from the plaster system in that when installing a wet facade, the plaster is applied directly to the thermal insulation layer. The ventilated façade requires installation façade panel made of fiber cement at a certain distance from the insulation, which creates the necessary protection from precipitation. In addition, thanks to the protective screen, excess moisture that appears behind the facade panel can evaporate through the air opening.

Thus, the ventilated facade has an additional number of functions compared to the wet method and provides:

• additional protection against moisture, as well as sound insulation;
• highest degree of fire protection;
• coolness in the room in the summer, which allows you to save on air conditioning;
• elimination of defects on the wall in the form of unevenness and curvature;
• ease and speed of installation;
• wide choose design options;
• additional thermal insulation, facilitated by the presence of an air cushion.

In addition, fiber cement coating does not require auxiliary maintenance and repair of the decorative layer after several years. The hinged structure can last for several decades without intervention.

When solving the dilemma of which façade to choose, you can be guided by the following recommendations. A wet facade is advisable when you need to minimize the cost of finishing a building and minimize the load on the walls. In this way, you can design perfectly smooth walls without meeting special requirements for the strength and wear resistance of the facade.

The hanging cladding, in turn, compensates for wall unevenness and helps hide any defects. Work on installing a ventilation façade can be carried out at any time of the year, even at sub-zero temperatures.

Areas of application for wet facades and ventilated facades

The scope of application of ventilated facades is much wider. They are used for insulation of private houses, finishing of multi-storey new buildings and public buildings. They are most widely used for decorating shops, cafes, shopping and entertainment centers and other public and commercial institutions.

Important! Wet facades are used for thermal insulation of low-rise buildings and utility rooms, as well as when it is necessary to save on insulation. How a budget option This method is also applicable in the energy saving system of government institutions and public buildings.

Various materials are used in the cladding of ventilated facades, in particular:

• porcelain stoneware plates;
• aluminum and composite panels;
• fiber cement;
• laminate slabs produced under high pressure.

The main advantages of a porcelain stoneware facade are its durability, varied colors and high aesthetic characteristics. But such material is quite expensive. The price of aluminum composite panels is more affordable. The material itself is universal, and thanks to a wide range of colors and structures, it allows you to realize the wildest fantasies of the architect.

Fiber cement is a material that imitates stone and is resistant to moisture and sun. It is characterized by ease of installation and an open type of fastening. It is used more often than others for cladding residential buildings. Laminate panels are a new material that comes in different colors, textures, is resistant to weathering and fire, is lightweight, durable and environmentally friendly. In addition, it costs less than porcelain stoneware analogues.

Wet facade technology using mineral wool: instructions, useful tips and secrets of the masters

If after consideration all sorts of options Insulating the choice was made in favor of a wet facade using mineral wool slabs, and it was decided to carry out the work independently, it is necessary to take into account a number of secrets of the craftsmen.

It's worth starting with the choice of material. So, on the Internet and specialized literature you can find a recommendation regarding replacing mineral wool with fiberglass. This is a misconception, since over time, fiberglass slabs begin to sag under vibration influences, and so-called cold paths form in the insulating layer.

To achieve the maximum thermal insulation effect, it is worth taking care of insulating not only the facade, but also the floor and ceiling. In particular, this applies to apartments above unheated rooms or on the upper floors.

Given that the right choice materials and strict adherence to instructions guarantee period The service life of the facade can reach the half-century mark. Additional protection for the finishing layer of plaster will be provided by coating with a special paint, which will also extend its service life. For this purpose, it is worth using water-dispersed paint with acrylic, silicone or silicate impurities. Its color variety includes more than a thousand shades.

Helpful advice! When painting, you should look into design and estimate documentation, where the original color of the building is indicated, the new shade must match it.

Conditions for successful insulation using wet facade installation technology: video recommendations

Insulation using wet technology must occur under conditions of complete protection from frost and precipitation. If the work does not require delay and its completion takes place in unfavorable conditions, then care should be taken to construct special scaffolding and cover it with a thick film, which will provide temporary protection from wind and moisture and create a small thermal contour.

Before starting work on the installation of a wet facade, it is necessary to tightly close all access to the interior of the room from windows and doors. It is better to complete all internal rough work in the house before insulation begins. On the outside wall, you should place in advance a number of fasteners and brackets that will hold air conditioners, chambers, ebbs or drainpipes.

It is necessary to work with adhesive solutions in the shade or in high clouds, excluding as much as possible the exposure of the mixture to sunlight. The distance between the thermal insulation boards and the reinforcing mesh must be at least 2 mm, which is ensured by adhesive filling.

For the overall strength of a multilayer structure, each layer must be given several days to dry. Rush in this case is unacceptable. The performance characteristics of decorative plaster depend on the work conditions. Optimal conditions are temperatures above 5 °C, high cloudiness, dry, windless weather.

For plastering, it is necessary to select exclusively materials for external work that can fully withstand negative influences. The top plaster layer must have a high level of thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, be durable and resistant to mechanical, chemical and atmospheric influences.

House insulation wet facade: summarizing

Wet facade technology, although inferior in number performance characteristics ventilated facade, is a leader among existing methods insulation. Its advantages lie in the use of modern high-quality thermal insulation materials, the service life of some of which can reach half a century. Special external finishing with high aesthetic characteristics not only guarantees the external beauty of modern residential buildings, but also makes this technology acceptable in the restoration of architectural landmarks.

To achieve the best results, you need to trust the work to certified companies, and also use high-quality materials from manufacturers that have proven themselves in the industry. construction market. To prevent the occurrence chemical reactions, it should be noted that the individual components must be compatible with each other. Each subsequent layer must have an increased level of vapor permeability compared to the previous one. Do not forget about the strength and density of materials and their compliance with fire and environmental requirements.

The design is designed to provide a high degree of sound protection in two directions (both from inside and outside the house). The quality of materials affects the longer service life of not only the insulating layer, but also the entire house, protecting the walls from precipitation and mechanical damage. The facade protects the main structure from the effects of wind, frost, pollution, ultraviolet radiation and humidity.

In conclusion, it should be noted that the use of various options for decorative plaster in the wet facade system, finishing elements and color design makes it possible to implement various style ideas on the outside of the building, which cannot be done using other insulation methods, for example, ventilated facade technology.

February 26, 2018
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

Wall decoration using the “wet facade” technology, on the one hand, is very simple, but on the other hand, it contains a lot of important subtleties. Therefore, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with all the nuances of its structure. This information will help you effectively insulate your building.

What is a wet facade

A wet façade is the finishing of external walls on top of insulation. The name itself implies the use of liquid finishing materials, which include wet plaster. The latter is a dry mixture that requires mixing with water before use.

The wet façade pie consists of several layers:

• Insulation. It is also glued to the walls using a wet method, i.e. using liquid glue. True, the slabs are additionally fixed with special disc-shaped dowels;
• Reinforcement layer. It is a layer of adhesive several millimeters thick, which is reinforced with fiberglass mesh. The glue performs the function of rough plaster;

• Decorative layer. It is a decorative plaster that provides the surface of the walls with a certain texture and texture. Paint is applied over the plaster layer, unless, of course, the plaster itself is tinted.

Insulation using this technology does not require large financial costs, since wet finishing materials are cheaper than panels or, for example, facing bricks. At the same time, installation is simple and fairly quick.

Choosing thermal insulation

To install a wet facade, a dense and durable slab insulation is required, since it has to perform a load-bearing function - to withstand wind loads, as well as the load from the plaster layer. In addition, the insulation must withstand impact loads, since it is protected only by a thin layer of glue and reinforcing mesh.

Therefore, only the following thermal insulation materials can be used:

• Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene). This, one might say, classic material for a wet facade, as it is inexpensive and effective. True, only slabs with a density of at least 25 kg/m3 are suitable for these purposes;

• Mineral wool. Another popular material that is fire resistant, environmentally friendly and vapor permeable. Mineral wool must have a density of at least 125 kg/m3

You can also use extruded polystyrene foam. It is stronger and more durable than polystyrene foam, but has poor adhesion. For a long time it was believed that this material should not be used to insulate walls under wet finishing.

However, they came up with a solution to the problem of poor adhesion by mechanically treating the surface with sandpaper or a grater. Some manufacturers produce slabs with an initially rough surface.

Installation technology

Materials

In addition to insulation, you should prepare the following materials:

• Adhesive for thermal insulation boards;
• Disc-shaped dowels - the length should be 4-5 cm greater than the thickness of the insulation;
• Primer;
• Fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
• Plaster corners;
• Starting bar;
• Decorative plaster;
• Facade paint.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be at least 5-7 centimeters. To achieve the best effect, it is advisable to glue slabs 10 cm thick.

Preparing the walls

A wet facade requires high-quality surface preparation. This operation is performed like this:

Illustrations	Actions
	Dismantling of attached parts. Dismantle all elements on the surface of the facade that may interfere with the installation of insulation - window sills, cornices, antennas, etc.
	Removing plaster. If the walls are covered with plaster that has begun to peel and fall off, it must be removed.
	Padding: Shake the facade primer and pour into a flat container; Apply a thin layer of primer to the wall surface with a brush, roller or spray; Wait for the surface to dry and repeat the procedure.

Installation of insulation

Now you can begin installing the insulation. Step-by-step instruction This operation looks like this:

Illustrations	Actions
	Installation of the starting bar. Along the perimeter of the building it is necessary to secure a base profile, from which the installation of insulation begins. Use dowels to secure the profile. When attaching the profile, be sure to ensure that it does not deviate from the horizontal.
	Preparation of glue: Pour room temperature water into a bucket; Gradually pour the adhesive into the bucket and mix with a mixer; Bring the glue to a dough-like consistency.
	Gluing the first row of slabs: Apply glue to the slab. If the quality of the walls allows, cover the entire surface of the insulation with a thin layer of glue using a tile spatula. If the walls are uneven, apply glue in lumps; Insert the plate into starting bar, press it against the wall and align it relative to the vertical using a level; Apply glue to the second plate, position it close to the first and glue it. Cover the entire first row in this manner.
	Installation of subsequent rows. Start installing the second row with half of the slab to ensure that the vertical joints are offset. In addition, bandage the slabs in the corner. If the slab of the first row was located flush with the wall, then the slab of the second row should protrude at a distance equal to the thickness of the insulation. In this way, cover all the walls with insulation.
	Pasting of openings. Cover the openings with insulation 1-2 cm thick.
	Installation of dowels: Use a hammer drill and drill a hole through the insulation to the depth of the dowel plus 5-10 mm; Insert the poppet sleeve into the hole; Hammer the nail included in the kit into the sleeve. Finish it so that the head of the sleeve enters the foam a few millimeters. Install dowels in the corners of each plate, as well as one dowel in the center. Slabs located on slopes do not need to be secured with dowels. Installation of dowels can only be done after the glue has completely hardened.

Preparation for reinforcement

Before you begin finishing, you must complete the following steps:

Illustrations	Actions
	Surface leveling: Apply a level and rule to the surface of the walls; Rub in any irregularities with a special grater.
	Insulation of cracks. Blow out the cracks with adhesive foam or fill with scraps of insulation.
	Gluing corners. Glue aluminum perforated corners along the perimeter of the openings and at all external corners. To glue the corners, an adhesive mixture is used, which is used to glue the insulation boards.

If you can reinforce polystyrene foam without priming, then before reinforcing extruded polystyrene foam the surface must be coated with an adhesive primer.

Reinforcement

Rough finishing of walls covered with insulation is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	Reinforcement of openings: Cut the reinforcing mesh according to the dimensions of the slopes, taking into account the turning at the corners (about 10 cm); Cover the surface of the slope with glue using a tile spatula or trowel; Attach the mesh; Iron the mesh with a spatula until it is completely covered with glue; Reinforce all slopes in this way; After the surface has hardened, apply another layer of glue about 2-3 mm thick. To make the glue adhere better to the mineral wool and not roll off, lightly moisten the surface with a spray bottle.
	Wall reinforcement: Reinforce the walls in the same way as the slopes - first apply glue, then glue the mesh. Be sure to provide overlap and wrap at the corners; After the surface has hardened, apply another layer of glue.

Decorative plastering

Now you can proceed to the final stage - decorative plaster:

Illustrations	Actions
	Padding. Cover the facade with soil according to the scheme described above, i.e. in two passes.
	Application of decorative plaster: Mix the mixture with water according to the instructions on the package; Apply a thin layer of coating using a trowel; When the decorative plaster begins to harden, rub it in with a trowel.
	Painting. If the plaster is not tinted, paint it as follows: Prepare the paint - mix and pour into a flat container; Use a facade roller and apply a thin layer of paint; Wait for the coating to dry and apply a second coat of paint.

This completes the construction of the wet façade.

Conclusion

Now you are familiar with the technology of installing a wet facade and can insulate your home yourself. And if any difficulties arise, write comments, and I will be happy to help with advice.

February 26, 2018

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

You can insulate the walls of your home both from the inside and outside. But a prudent owner will always give preference to systems with external insulation. Code of Practice SP 23-101-2004 “Thermal Protection Design” states: “It is not recommended to use thermal insulation with inside" In addition, at least three more arguments can be cited in favor of such a decision:

The “wet facade” method involves the following stages of work:

1. Preparatory process.
2. Insulation of walls with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene from the outside of the building.
3. Applying a layer of adhesive mixture to the surface of the insulation, followed by laying a reinforcing, alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh on it.
4. Plastering the surface.
5. Finishing layer finishing material.

Externally, the “wet facade” in the photo looks like this:

Insulation of the facade using the “wet facade” technology

You will learn about the technology for installing this insulation method a little later, but in this section I would like to note its advantages and disadvantages.

The effective “wet facade” method has established itself as one of the cheapest, included in the “TOP-3” Inexpensive facades", you can read about this in the article, so it is used everywhere. But in order for the listed advantages to please you, you must follow the technology, choose high-quality material and observe the necessary conditions when performing work.

Types of facades and their scope of application

"Wet facade" is plaster finishing, which is used for insulation of administrative buildings, residential buildings, office, commercial and industrial buildings. This type of facade is suitable for both low-rise and high-rise construction.

The external walls of a building can be insulated in two ways. One of them is called "dry facade" and the other - "wet façade" When installing the first type of cladding, there is no need to use various solutions and compositions with liquid consistencies. This type of facade finishing includes all types of ventilated facades, which you can learn about in the article “”. Due to the available space, the insulation is ventilated, the material is not moistened.

As for the second method, “wet facade”, or wet plaster of the facade, has nothing to do with moisturizing. The name implies that the heat insulator will be mounted on the wall, and then the surface will be plastered with special solutions.

In the process of work, plaster and adhesive compositions are used, which are diluted with water, which is why the method is called “wet facade”.

Classification facade systems, having external thin plaster layers of GOST R 53786-2010 “Heat-insulating composite façade systems with external plaster layers. Terms and Definitions", presented in the table:

Wet façade technology

All technological phases are carried out at a temperature of no less than +5°C and no higher than +25°C according to SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings.” The quality of the work performed and the service life depend on the accuracy of the conditions met.

By violating the temperature regime and using materials not intended for the “wet facade” system, you risk getting a cracked coating or crumbling plaster.

Don’t forget about your safety, because the work will be carried out at heights. Most likely you will use scaffolding, according to SNiP 12-03-2001 “Safety in construction” Part 1 their installation is carried out in tiers, and the height of each tier must be at least 2 m. The step, depending on the height, can be a multiple of 0.5; 1 and 2 m. From the outer plane, the walls of the forest are set at a distance of 300–400 mm.

Preparatory work

It is necessary to begin work by inspecting the surface and visually determining its strength and load-bearing capacity. If there are sagging mortar on the wall, remove the excess with a hammer or other available tool, and seal the cracks with mortar.

According to standards SNiPa 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings” the base must be strong, rough, clean and open-pore. Differences of more than 10 mm must be eliminated.

Let's say there is a small section of 200 x 200 mm on the wall, concave a couple of centimeters, and if you cover it with insulation, then a void will form in this place. An accidental blow to the finished facade in this place will break the insulation. Laying the slab on protruding areas is also fraught with internal defects in the material.

If, while running your palm over the surface, you see a “chalk mark” on your hand or something like fine sand is falling from the wall, clean the wall more thoroughly. Sometimes you have to completely plaster the base.

We will clean the treated surface from dirt and prime it with a special compound called “Primer”; this intermediate layer will improve the physical and technical characteristics of the base. We do this using a roller or a wide paint brush.

Foam primer should only be used on foam boards and not on mineral wool boards.

If the surface absorbs the composition strongly, then apply the primer 2 times. This operation will increase the adhesion of the base and reduce the removal of water from the adhesive mixture.

Installation of insulation

Using the “wet plaster” method, you need to understand that most of the load will fall on the insulation layer. We offer a drawing that clearly shows the design of this technology using decorative plaster as a finishing layer.

"wet facade"

Therefore, the selection and installation of insulating material to the wall surface is a crucial moment when installing a “wet facade”.

The choice of material used in the work depends on the following indicators:

The technology for constructing a “wet facade” allows the use of a synthetic polymer group of insulation materials, mineral thermal insulation materials and their combination. Materials must comply GOST: 10140-2003. “Thermal insulation slabs made of mineral wool with a bitumen binder. Specifications", 16136-2003 "Perlite-bitumen thermal insulation slabs. Technical specifications", 22950-95 "Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity with a synthetic binder. Technical conditions".

The thickness of the heat insulator is selected depending on the existing heating engineering standards for buildings and structures, which are prescribed in SNiPe 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”. It says here that to insulate facades for residential premises, you should use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 10–250 mm or a mineral wool board with a thickness of 25–180 mm.

Using extruded polystyrene foam, which has a smooth surface, you should make it rough. To do this, you can buy a factory-made plane for aerated concrete, as in the photo, or make a homemade plane from a metal profile pierced with nails.

For work, purchase the tools necessary to complete the construction process:

• building level;
• hammer;
• hammer drill with attachments for dowels (most often D8);
• electric drill;
• profile cutter;
• spatula: 80–100 mm and 350 mm;
• container for diluting the adhesive composition;
• construction mixer;
• toothed trowel, tooth size 8–10 mm, made of stainless steel;
• smooth edge iron;
• grater with sandpaper or mesh;
• long wooden grater;
• wide brush, roller for priming the surface;
• construction knife for cutting mesh;
• polyurethane grater 300–400 mm to form the structure.

The approximate consumption of materials is indicated in the table:

Fastening the insulation begins from the base of the building to its roof, within one vertical grip, and is carried out in the following chronology:

1. Fastening the base profile The bottom of the insulating layer is protected from mechanical damage using a base profile, which is installed 400–600 mm above the base using a level. It also holds the bottom (first) row of the insulator, and a profiled drip drains away raindrops. The dimensions of the plinth profiles are suitable for various thicknesses of thermal insulation material; they correspond GOST 22233-2001 “Profiles pressed from aluminum alloys for translucent enclosing structures. Technical specifications" and the slab must fit into them exactly - without gaps. We drill holes in the wall for dowels, at least 3 pieces per 1 m of profile. We lean the profile against the wall, insert plastic dowels into the holes and use a hammer to drive it into the wall. Sometimes polyethylene washers are used for lining between the profile and the wall.
   

   Location of the base profile in established form should be in one line, there should be no overlaps or deformation of the part at the joints.

   When the profile continues along the adjacent base, we cut it at an angle of 45°. In houses with basements and technical underground polystyrene foam slabs must overlap the end of the slab by no less than 200 mm from the bottom level of the first floor and basement floors.

   

2. Coating the insulation surface with an adhesive solution You can find out which polystyrene foam is best for your job in the article "", and for its installation we use a cement-based adhesive solution, but only for external work. The adhesive solution is prepared manually using a construction electric mixer. How to do this is written on the packaging. Fill the container with water in the amount of 5–5.5 liters per 25 kg of mixture and slowly pour the dry solution from the bag, thoroughly stirring the contents at low speed. The result should be a homogeneous mass, leave it for 10 minutes, and then stir again. The adhesive composition must be mixed until a homogeneous mass without lumps and remember that it retains its properties only for 4 hours.

   We apply the adhesive mass to the slabs in strips 30–40 mm wide at a distance of about 30 mm from the edge, so during installation it will not be squeezed out beyond the edges of the material. In the central part of the slab we apply about 6–8 slides, 30–40 mm thick. We select the amount of solution so that most of the insulation surface has contact with the base through it. The glue strip along the contour should have gaps; we do them using a spatula, this way the formation of air pockets is eliminated.

   

3. Gluing the insulation to the base After applying the glue, we immediately apply the slab to the wall, the long side of which lies horizontally, fixing it with fist blows through a long wooden trowel, or with a mallet. At the same time, we control the vertical and horizontal position of the slab with a level. The glue squeezed out beyond the insulation contour is immediately removed.
   

   Do not press the heat insulator again or move it even after a few minutes. If it is not glued correctly, carefully tear it off, remove the mortar, and only then re-apply the mixture to the slab and press it to the surface.

   We lay the slabs according to horizontal scheme, from bottom to top, maintaining a checkerboard arrangement of the order of seams, and “overlapping” at the corners. At the corners we use “gear” gearing.

   First, a slab with a corresponding protrusion is laid on one wall, and then another is applied to it. The strip that remains is cut off.

   Vertical and horizontal seams should not be more than 2 mm. If it turns out that they are much larger, you cannot completely fill them with solution. You need to insert a narrow strip of insulation into the gap and press it into the seam, no longer using the adhesive. When the gap is small and it is impossible to insert thermal insulation material into it, experts recommend widening it and inserting the insulation with force, but not using an adhesive solution, but using polyurethane foam.

   To apply glue to the insulation, it is better to use a notched trowel; this method guarantees the cleanliness of the joint and ensures uniform adhesion of the insulation to the glued surface with the ability to level the sheet along the plane.

   When insulating slopes from the outside, we use insulation with a thickness of at least 30 mm. We cut the polystyrene foam board to a width of 5 mm less than the width of the slope, or before gluing it, we cut a wedge (8–10 mm) from the insulation and fill the gap between the insulator and the frame with silicone mastic.

   When insulating slopes, the slabs should protrude 10 mm beyond the slope, making it very convenient to join the main façade insulation.

   The slabs are installed at the corners with bandaged seams. You should also pay attention to the connection of the heat insulator to the under-roof lining, because this place especially requires protection from mechanical stress and moisture from getting under the slabs. For this edge thermal insulation material reinforced with another layer of reinforcing mesh, as for window and door openings, the insulating layer on top is protected with a cornice strip.

   

4. Leveling the surface of the insulation All unevenness of the glued insulation must be sanded off with a grater and sandpaper. This is done only after the glue has hardened, 2 days after gluing the slabs. The grater should be made in circular motions with slight pressure.

   

5. Fastening the insulation to the wall with dowels After 2 days, when the glue has already set, we proceed to attaching the insulation to the base mechanically– special dowels with wide heads. We select an area and use a hammer drill to drill holes in it with a Ø 10 mm drill bit, 15–20 mm deep and 15–20 mm longer than the length of the dowel. Otherwise, debris falling into the hole will not allow the tip to be driven in. We calculate the length of the fungus according to the following scheme: thickness of the insulating material + 10 mm (thickness of other layers) + 40–50 mm into the wall. Let’s say if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the length of the dowel will be 110 mm, i.e. 50+10+50. The length of the hole will be 130 mm: 110+20, which means the length of the drill is slightly more than 130 mm. Place the holes on the sheets: at the joints and in the center. A total of 5 fungi will be used per leaf. More can be done if necessary. Regardless of the location of the dowels on the slabs within the same plane of the area, the sheets are nailed 50–100 mm from their edge. Now we drive spacer tips into the dowels; if they are difficult to hammer in completely, we pull out the dowel, deepen the hole and hammer in the tip again.

   It is worth remembering that for work you should buy a dowel with a thermal head. Otherwise, rusty spots may appear on the facade over time. The dowel rod itself is metal, its spacer zone is located in brickwork or concrete, therefore, the metal rod is a cold bridge and can rust over time, and the thermal head will protect the facade from such a problem.

   

A dowel is considered to be properly strengthened when its head is in the same plane with the heat-insulating material.

If it is necessary to lay two layers of heat insulation, then we perform the first layers in the same way as described above, and glue the second onto the first, but in such a way that the joints overlap. After grouting the surface, you can hammer in the dowels, just choose the correct length of the product so that it is enough for the thickness of the insulation and the base.

In cases where the thickness of the insulation in two layers is greater than the existing length of the fastener, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam assembly adhesive for fastening. If you use ordinary polyurethane foam, you may not achieve flat surface, because the expansion of the foam is much greater than the expansion of the mounting adhesive for polystyrene foam.

Plastering work on insulation

Before plastering polystyrene foam or other insulation, it is necessary to perform a number of operations, which can be divided into 3 stages:

• Surface reinforcement
• Plastering works
• Finishing

Surface reinforcement

The “wet facade” technology after installing the insulation obliges next step reinforce the surface. This function is performed by a fiberglass mesh, coated polymer composition to protect the material from alkali corrosion. According to GOST R 537862010 “Heat-insulating composite façade systems with external plaster layers” reinforcement occurs by “recessing” it into the base composition during its application.

Fiberglass mesh is an industrially produced material in which the threads are fastened in perpendicular directions and form cells. All products must comply GOST R 55225-2012 “Alkali-resistant façade reinforcement fiberglass mesh. Technical conditions".

Fiberglass mesh with a density of 160 to 220 g/m2 is suitable for work. The specified minimum is specified in the technical regulations of well-known manufacturers of facade insulation systems: Knauf in the “KNAUF-TEPLAYA STENA External Thermal Insulation System”, thermal insulation systems Ceresit WM. By purchasing material with low density, the developer reduces the reliability and strength of his façade in relation to tensile forces in the plaster layer.

The mesh will also serve as a reliable basis for the next layer of plaster. If you glue a material that does not meet the above requirements, the alkaline solution will dissolve the mesh within several years.

Such material will reliably protect the facade from cracks that occur under the influence of temperature differences.

The grid should have a mark “for external, façade work”. According to GOST R 55225-2012 “Alkali-resistant façade reinforcement fiberglass mesh. Technical specifications", product markings must be on each roll. By type, depending on the purpose, facade fiberglass meshes are:

• privates - R;
• reinforced - U;
• architectural - A.

Marking of mesh for facade (FS) includes: abbreviated designation of the product, its type, nominal weight and width, tensile strength along the warp and weft, designation of the regulatory standard.

An example is this marking: FSR-160(110)-2000/2000 GOST R, where

• FS – façade mesh;
• R - ordinary;
• 160 – mass in grams;
• 110 – length in cm

• 2000/2000 – breaking forces on the warp and weft equal to 2000 N;
• GOST R – standard.

To secure the mesh, you need a layer of adhesive-plaster mixture, into which a fiberglass mesh is embedded, which serves as the basis for high-quality plaster. It must match GOST R 54359-2011 “Adhesive, base plaster, leveling, putty compositions based on cement binder for facade heat-insulating composite systems with external plaster layers”. It is better to begin this stage 72 hours after gluing the heat insulator to the wall. Remember that this must be done not in rainy weather and in air temperatures not lower than +5°C and not higher than +25°C. Do not leave thermal insulation material uncovered for more than 2 weeks. If this happens, then before performing reinforcement, check the quality of the material: clean yellowed slabs with a dusty surface with a grater or a plane. We start working with difficult areas - corners and slopes.

Corner reinforcement

To work, we will need a plastic corner, since it is chemically inert, and the cement mortar we use has an alkaline environment. In addition, polymers practically do not corrode and are easy to cut.

Profile marking: UP S-10 x 15 x 2500 is deciphered as follows:

• UP – corner profile;
• C – mesh;
• 10 – width, mm;
• 15 – length, mm;
• 2500 – length, in mm.

We start working from the corner of the building. This means that before this it is necessary to put them, both internal and external, in order - install ready-made perforated plastic corners with a mesh, these are commercially available, we talked about them above. The diagram of their location is clearly visible in the figure.

Do not forget that the corners should be set professionally, and the insulation should be laid level using a “rule” and thread. We press the corners against the insulation and, using a level, align them horizontally and vertically. The glue protruding through the perforation, which was applied to the surface in advance, is smoothed out, with its help the corner is leveled and fixed.

The process itself occurs as follows: apply the solution to a corner with a spatula (200 mm) (50–70 mm on each side of the corner, with a layer thickness of 2–3 mm). We apply a plastic corner to the corner of the building, press it to the surface and smooth it with a spatula along the mesh from the corner to the side, slightly downwards. It turns out to be a corner, on each side of which 50–70 mm of mesh is glued, and another 50–70 mm of mesh over the clean insulation.

If a situation arises that it is necessary to connect two corners together, then we connect them vertically, just do not forget that the joint must be covered on top with a reinforcing mesh, at least 100 millimeters.

Reinforcement of door and window openings

Using a level, we check the slopes again and, if necessary, trim them using a grater. We install connection profiles with the mesh. In the diagram you can see the finished design of the window opening.

We apply a layer of mortar to the slopes, the profile mesh is stretched, embedded into it and smoothed out. We do this around the entire perimeter of the opening. Next, we install corners and a window sill profile with fiberglass mesh on the corners of the opening. A little more solution is applied to the corners so that air cavities are not created under the profiles, and the excess solution will come out through the perforations. Do not forget to check the correct installation of the profile with a level.

It turns out that one mesh overlaps the other, they are sunk into the solution and we apply a “kerchief” - a piece of mesh - to all 4 corners of the opening at an angle of 45 0. Externally it will look like this:

Location of the gusset

Tension is created at the corners of the openings and the “kerchiefs” prevent cracks from appearing in these places. This part of the work is carried out in the same way as the previous ones: a solution is applied to the surface, a mesh is applied, and it is embedded using a spatula. Only the “kerchief” must be pressed in with force, all excess adhesive mixture must be removed so that there are no thickenings on the surface.

When the slopes are processed, strips of fiberglass mesh must be glued onto their inner corners, the width of which will be equal to the width of the slope, and the length will be 300–400 mm.

Attaching the reinforcing mesh to the insulation

We start moving from the top from the left corner of the site, then downwards with diagonal movements in the direction from the center to the sides. We trim the excess length of the mesh from below at the level of the base profile.

The glue must be applied with a spatula, at least 350 mm. Using a smaller tool, apply the mixture to the larger one, stretching it along the entire length of the tool, and apply the solution to the insulation. Ceresit has proven itself well. The layer should be 2–3 mm. The work should be done in small areas: 90 cm in width and about one meter in height. If the mesh in the roll is 1 m, then we grab 90 cm and 10 cm remains clean without any mixture for the joint.

We process only a meter in height: in sunny weather the solution dries quickly, but you need to have time to apply it, lay the mesh, add the solution and smooth the surface with a spatula.

We apply the mesh so that the width of 100 mm lies on a clean area of ​​insulation. Using a spatula, smooth the area from the center to the edges, downwards, so that the mesh “sticks” evenly into the mixture. It is ideal when it is completely in the mixture, but its outlines are barely visible.

The mesh is sold in a roll; you need to make a strip of mesh from top to bottom, without cutting, and only join the seams vertically. Starting from the top to make a height of 1.5–2 meters, go down and finish the work.

The principle for joining seams is the same in both vertical and horizontal directions. We leave 100 mm of mesh without mortar; it simply lies on the heat-insulating material. We coat the next area with the mixture (covering a clean strip), apply a mesh with an overlap of 100 mm and level the area with a spatula. This way we will get more even and smooth seams on top.

The mesh must be well stretched, placed in the middle of the adhesive solution layer, it must extend to the surface and its pattern should not be visible.

If the mesh is not stretched and you get bubbles or folds, you will have to cut it out and glue a new mesh with an overlap of 100 mm along the edges of the cutout.

Remember that you cannot glue the mesh by laying it on insulation that has not been treated with an adhesive. With a thin reinforcing layer, cracks will appear in the plaster at the junctions of the heat-insulating material. Also, surface deformation may be due to the fact that the reinforcing mesh was laid without overlap or was unevenly recessed in the solution.

After the adhesive has dried, the surface must be primed with a layer of plaster (2–3 mm). It will chemically separate the plaster layer from the reinforced one, reduce absorption, and increase the adhesion of the finishing material. Be sure to make sure that the dowel heads are hidden and the reinforced layer adheres to its head.

Finishing

"Wet façade" in relation to exterior finishing home gives a wide choice. Traditionally this is: textured plaster, “bark beetle”, “fur coat” and coloring.

But after the surface of the reinforced layer of the facade has dried, it must be sanded. A plastic grater with an emery attachment is suitable for this. The movements should be circular, counterclockwise, with little effort. Grab an area that is not large, at arm's length, so that it is comfortable to work with. Then we perform dust removal and priming on the surface.

Materials for the finishing layer of the “wet facade”

The decorative coating should not reduce the vapor permeability and hydrophobicity of the protective layer, which means we select materials that meet such indicators as:

• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to water and adverse natural factors;
• strength.

It will not be possible to prepare a plaster mixture for the facade on your own, since using a commonly available solution based on sand and cement is not enough. This requires special components and additives. Facade plaster using polystyrene foam, its analogues, and mineral wool is available for sale. More details about materials can be found in the article “Find out what types of facades are used for which houses: stone, wood, plastered, translucent, composite.”

It is worth remembering that it is better not to combine mixtures from different manufacturers. Well-known manufacturers offer their own sets of materials, which necessarily include: adhesive and plaster solutions, primer composition, facade paint, fasteners. Each composition is selected in such a way as to ensure the best combination of strength and durability properties.

For work, only special compositions for external work are used. You can find out more about them in the article “Facades”; here we will talk about plaster mixtures for certain types of insulation.

You can plaster polystyrene foam from the outside:

• mineral mixtures;
• acrylic compounds;
• silicone solutions;
• silicate plasters.

The solution for finishing polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or penoplex must be specialized, designed specifically for working with synthetic insulation. And remember that prices from different manufacturers differ significantly, but choose high-quality material, since the strength and durability of the coating depends on this.

Thermal insulators of the Penoplex company are considered the most effective of all currently existing. Thus, at the end of 2011 (company data), the share of their products in this segment in the domestic market was 52%. And in May last year, 2015, the first domestic and fourth in the world production line with a capacity of 550,000 m 3 of thermal insulation per year was launched in Novomoskovsk.

However, the material is exposed to external factors: sun, frost, wind, shock loads. Under their influence, the heat insulator loses its properties and is destroyed. A win-win option for protection is plastering the facade using penoplex or other insulation materials:

1. Mineral plaster, which consists of cement and polymers. It has a low coefficient of water absorption, is resistant to fungi and mold, is easy to apply, and is effective in insulating facades.
2. Acrylic composition, which is elastic, has good water-repellent characteristics, and is not afraid of the influence of UV radiation. If you live in a place with a high level of humidity and don’t know how to plaster the foam on the outside, feel free to use this composition.
3. Silicate mixture quite effective, elastic, antistatic, vapor-permeable, resistant to climatic precipitation.
4. Silicate plaster, which has high vapor permeability, elasticity, and is resistant to aggressive chemical compounds, microorganisms, and ultraviolet radiation. But the cost of its compositions is much higher than those described above, it is more difficult to apply and the color palette is dominated by pastel colors.

The plastered surface can be made smooth and embossed. When choosing a plaster mixture, be sure to look at what texture it is intended for.

In terms of resistance to mechanical loads, experts consider acrylic plaster to be effective, followed by silicate and mineral plaster. The service life is affected by the texture of the surface: smooth is more sensitive to external influences.

It is also worth noting that mineral wool is used to insulate the facade. This material has the following qualities:

• good fire resistance;
• high vapor permeability, water-repellent parameters;
• environmental well-being;
• long service life.

Such thermal insulation will last a long time and reliably protect the walls of your home. Modern products are processed during the manufacturing process water-repellent compounds. Previously, the disadvantage of mineral wool was the release of formaldehyde resins from it during its production, but modern technologies have helped get rid of this disadvantage.
In 2009, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), based on confirmation from the NTP (National Toxicology Program) organization in the USA, assigned mineral wool group 3 according to the IARC classification (IARC/CIRC). This includes materials that are not classified as human carcinogens, such as tea and coffee. And in 2010, the World Health Organization recognized mineral wool as completely harmless.

The heat insulator is attached to the wall using adhesive and then, for reliability, dowels with wide caps are hammered in. Next comes the process of reinforcement, plastering on mineral wool - the same as on polystyrene foam, and painting the facade.

Facade plastering technology

Choosing the right composition is an important point when insulating the external walls of a house. But the quality of the coating depends not only on the material, but also on how to plaster the insulation. This must be done correctly, following a certain sequence.

When plastering, remember that one wall must be completed at a time, otherwise traces of the joint will remain on the surface.

Insulation plaster is applied to the surface no earlier than 3–7 days after the lining plaster is completed. Requirements are met SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings”: temperature not lower than +5°C, not higher than +25°C. Strong wind and precipitation are not allowed.

To apply the plaster layer you will need:

• a mixer for construction work or a hammer drill with an attachment for mixing mortar;
• capacity;
• large and small spatulas;
• grater or grater.

If you know how to plaster mineral wool, but you do not know how to plaster penoplex, then understand that there is no difference in the processing of insulation at this stage. First of all, using a mixer, mix the solution in a container; detailed instructions are written on the package. We apply the plaster mortar with a small spatula onto a large one and distribute the composition evenly vertically along the wall, pulling it out.

We collect the excess with a grater, which we hold at a slight angle and lightly press against the wall. Mix the excess plaster with the bulk in the container.

We begin grouting the next section of plaster from the junction with the previous one. The solution should not be dry at the joint.

When the layer of plaster has set a little, we rub the surface with a smooth trowel dipped in water to level out defects, and then we give the wall the desired texture using floats made of artificial material.

Facade painting

When the walls are dry, they can be painted. You can learn about which paint to choose for the job and how to calculate the required amount in the article “Paint for facades.” To work, you will need a cuvette, a paint sprayer or a roller with a telescopic handle, brushes, a round brush made of natural bristles, masking tape, and plastic film.

Any paint will make the color of the facade uniform, it will protect it from moisture and dirt. All plaster mixtures, except for acrylic ones, we recommend painting them.

Be sure to protect the base and its top edge. If you paint with a roller or brush, it will be enough. masking tape, and if you use a spray gun for work, it is better to cover it with thick paper. Cover windows, eaves, and metal parts of the building with plastic film.

Lime paint is considered extremely beneficial for plastered surfaces, as it can be diluted with water, but it is not durable.

When using it for work, comply with the requirements GOST 12.3.035-84 SSBT “Construction. Painting works. Safety requirements», Do not forget about your safety - use rubberized gloves and safety glasses. Splashes of paint on the skin are easily washed off with water, but this must be done in a timely manner.

The final coat of paint is applied to a single wall in one pass without interruption, so that joints are not visible on the surface.

Working with a paint sprayer is much faster and more convenient. You need to start from any angle, moving up and down. But be sure to use the means personal protection: glasses, gloves and clothing.
Paint brushes are needed for painting surfaces in hard-to-reach places.
Working with a roller will not cause any particular difficulties. The area of ​​the area that needs to be processed at a time should not exceed 1 m2. Roll out a roller in a ditch, it will be saturated with paint, and apply 3-4 stripes to the walls. After this, we roll them with a roller until the paint is evenly distributed over the surface.

Among the most common errors are the following:

• Carrying out work under unfavorable climatic conditions, in which case a wet façade will cause cracks or swelling of the surface.
• Poor surface preparation.
• Poor quality and loose joining of thermal insulation material.
• Incorrect position of the reinforcing mesh, small overlap.
• Laying the mesh directly on the thermal insulation layer.
• Wrong choice of material and its inconsistency.
• Failure to comply with the rules for fastening insulation in a checkerboard pattern.

Insulating even cottage, you will still have to use scaffolding or scaffolding. If you work alone, then in order not to drag them from place to place, it is better to carry out the work in sections: in height according to the height of the paver, and in width - based on the dimensions of the scaffolding.

Having decided to insulate your home with various materials, you can combine them.

In the picture, the protruding part is lined with a “wet façade”. In this case, you should not use mineral wool, as it will sag during installation.

Soldering polystyrene will be difficult to work with, but the results with this material will be excellent.

Installation of a “wet facade” should be carried out in the spring-summer period, then there will be no need to construct a thermal circuit, which will not entail additional financial investments. If the installation technology is violated, a greenhouse effect is likely to occur, and this will have a destructive effect on the plaster layer.

Facade cladding is usually combined with its insulation, since up to 40% of the heat leaves the house through the walls. A common technology that allows you to combine thermal insulation with finishing is a wet facade, insulation in combination with plaster.

This technology owes its popularity largely to its low cost, but this is not the only reason, there are others. For example, due to the variety of finishes, a building can be given an individual look. Let's look at the types of wet facades.

Types of wet facade depending on insulation

This façade is a layer-by-layer structure. The materials are arranged in the following order:

• heat-insulating layer;
• reinforcing layer. Provides strength and high-quality adhesion of the insulation to the cladding;
• priming;
• plaster. It has two functions: decorative and protective (protects the insulation from ultraviolet rays and precipitation).

Types of wet building facades differ primarily in thermal insulation:

• polystyrene foam. EPS – porous organic material;
• mineral wool - the material consists of basalt fibers;
• combined.

Features of teaching staff:

• flammability. It decreases when fire retardant is added during the manufacturing process, but does not disappear completely. Manufacturers offer self-extinguishing brands as insulation materials;
• combustion toxicity;
• vapor tightness;
• non-hygroscopic;
• low density, light weight.

Features of mineral wool:

• non-flammability, non-combustibility (NG group);
• vapor permeability;
• hygroscopicity;
• environmental friendliness (artificial ingredients are, as a rule, not used in production);
• weight is greater than that of PPS.

Types of finishing of wet facades

In addition to thermal insulation, the types of wet facades of houses differ in plaster. All recommended compositions are divided into several groups according to the type of binder:

• acrylic, the binding component of which is organic matter– acrylic resin. Water-dispersed composition. Climatic resistance is high, vapor permeability is average;

• mineral, binder - cement. Dry mixture, diluted with water. Good vapor permeability, non-flammable, lowest price;

• silicate – potassium liquid glass. Sold ready-made. Good vapor permeability, compatibility with many materials. Relatively high price, limited color range. Only silicate primer can be used with this plaster;

• silicone – silicone resin. They are sold ready-made and can be placed on any base. The most expensive, most durable. Vapor permeability, non-hygroscopicity, dirt-repellent properties. Only silicone primer is suitable.

The combination of thermal insulation with an external coating is not arbitrary: the finished wet facade system consists of materials adapted to each other with a high level of adhesion. Wherein:

• expanded polystyrene is used in combination with organic or silicone compounds;
• mineral wool - with mineral or silicate plaster;
• combined systems - also usually with a mineral composition.

Types of finishing of wet façade houses depend on the design solution:

• "bark beetle" (Reibeputs);

• "fur coat" (Rollputz);

• “lamb” (Kratzputs);

• plaster paint (Streichputs), etc.

The finished coating differs in texture, which depends on the grain size of the filler, application methods, and the tool used.

For your information

Exclusive, unique types of wet facades of private houses are obtained thanks to different compositions of plasters and various finishing techniques.

For example, a popular technique is to apply prints to laid plaster. The template for the print can be any sufficiently hard object.

The solution includes various pigments, crumbs, and mother-of-pearl. As a result, the finished surface can imitate anything: marble, any ornamental stone, brick, even cork and wood.

A simpler and cheaper finishing method is painting. Another option is wall cladding with ceramic tiles.

“Heavy” and “light” types of wet house facades

Another classification. In it, the types of wet building facades differ in the technology of insulation fastening.

"Hard" way

“Heavy” method (some experts call it “floating”, by analogy with laying floors using the glueless method). At the stage of installing the insulation, glue (or cement mortar) is not used: dowels with hooks are driven into the base, the insulation is placed on them, and the mesh is fixed with pressure plates. And only after this they move on to plastering.

With this method, the base and heat-insulating boards function as if separately, which helps compensate for their deformations, incl. significant.

The method is called heavy not because of the hardware used for fastening, but because to cover the mesh you need a thick layer of plaster, 2-4 centimeters.

The advantage of this technology is that there are no high requirements for preparing the base; the disadvantage is that it is more expensive. It can only be used with durable wall materials that can withstand heavy loads: brick, expanded clay concrete, cellular concrete etc. Used on moving soils, in seismically hazardous areas, at critical facilities, in poor climatic conditions.

"Light" type of wet facade

Usually when they talk about a wet facade, they mean the “light” type. He is more widely known. The insulation boards are placed on a special glue containing cement and fixed with mushroom-shaped dowels.

For your information

This option is inexpensive and versatile: such a façade can even be made using OSB or moisture-resistant plywood of a frame house.

Mineral wool with a density of 150 kilograms per cubic meter or PPP of at least 35 is used as insulation. Covering plaster is no thicker than 8 millimeters, the entire facade does not exceed 1 cm in thickness. The mineral wool facade is a little heavier, but has an advantage over PPS - it “breathes”.

The cost of the “light” option is significantly lower than the “heavy” one, but the surface under it must be carefully removed.

Cost of different types of wet facades

The cost of the finished facade depends on:

• on the insulation material and its brand;
• depending on the type of plaster;
• on the technology used;
• depending on the complexity of the terrain façade walls and scope of work.

Plus additional work - delivery of materials, preparation of the foundation, erection of scaffolding, etc.

Approximate prices for the main types of turnkey wet facades:

• with mineral wool - from 1.7 thousand per square;
• with expanded polystyrene - from 1.9 thousand.

Breakdown by type of work (approximately):

• soil – from 60 rub./m2;
• fastening the heat insulator - from 470 rubles/m2;
• reinforcement – ​​from 350 rub./m2;
• plaster – from 410 rub./m2.