After heavy rainfall, puddles form in almost every area. However, not all owners of private buildings understand that this is a direct danger to the structure and its foundation. Water penetrating into the soil has a destructive effect on the foundation, so to prevent negative consequences Experts recommend installing storm drainage in a private house.

Why do we need a storm drain?

The main purpose of storm or rainwater drainage is to remove excess moisture from the area around the house.

Sand traps

These storm drainage elements collect grains of sand and other heavy particles. Most sand traps are made of plastic, so their cost is quite low. Despite this, performance characteristics remain on top.

Sand traps must be located at the same distance from each other, which is determined by the parameters of the site. Regular cleaning of these storm sewer elements allows you to maintain the working condition of the entire drainage system.

Lattices

The presence of gratings in the water drainage system ensures maximum water removal from the soil surface on the site. The quality and performance characteristics of the gratings depend on the material of manufacture.

In particular, we're talking about about the following options:

• Cast iron grates are reliable and durable. But when choosing these storm drainage elements, you should take into account that the paint on them does not last more than 3 years. Consequently, after this time, cast iron gratings become less attractive, which contributes to a decrease in the aesthetics of the entire structure.
• Steel gratings are considered the cheapest option, but are characterized by low quality. This is explained by the tendency of steel to form pockets of corrosion, therefore, after 2-3 years of operation, the gratings will become covered with rust.
• Lattices made of aluminum alloys stronger, have an attractive appearance, however, their cost is quite high.

Pipes

The most important element storm or rainwater drainage can be called pipes. To equip the drainage system, red-colored polyethylene products are used. Inner surface Such pipes are smooth, so the throughput of the system is higher. If we consider cast iron or asbestos pipes, then using them can also ensure good drainage.

When choosing a pipe diameter, it is necessary to take into account the overall branching of the storm drain in the area and the amount of water collected. The best option involves laying pipes with a diameter of more than 15 cm.

Inspection well

Such designs are recommended for installation on long-distance pipelines or with numerous branches. The main purpose of these storm drainage elements in a dacha is to provide the ability to clean pipes when a blockage occurs. In most cases, inspection wells are made of plastic or concrete.

When deciding how to make a storm drain or rain drainage, not all listed system elements may be used. However, their maximum amount will ensure more efficient removal of excess moisture from the area around the house.

Main types of drainage systems in a private house

In private homes, in most cases, storm drains of three types are installed:

• System open type.
• Closed system.
• Mixed type system.

Open storm drain

The system is easy to install, which allows you to install storm drains yourself, without the involvement of professional craftsmen. The main elements of the open system are surface gutters. The water flows down the drainpipe and is discharged through gutters into special tanks or the general sewer system.

Surface gutters can be metal, plastic or concrete. It is recommended to cover these elements with special grilles on top to prevent the entry of large debris and make the appearance of the structure more attractive.

An open storm drain system can cover a large area, collecting water from sidewalks, garden paths and various areas.

Closed system

Installation of a closed or point-type storm drain involves the location of all water intakes underground. The system works on the following principle: water flows from the roof through drainpipes and enters a special rainwater inlet, which are connected to underground channels. Through these channels, water is discharged beyond the perimeter of the site.

Mixed stormwater

Choosing a drainage well

For the most efficient collection and disposal of water in the area around the cottages and country houses they install several types of systems. Most often, the arrangement of sewer, drainage and storm water disposal systems is carried out in parallel, at a short distance from each other.

Very often, owners of suburban areas want to save on installing storm drainage systems. In this case, they try to combine elements of different systems. An example of such an error is the use of drainage or sewer well for draining water from a stormwater system. This option is called an error next reason: with heavy rainfall, water enters the well quickly and in fairly large volumes. You need to understand that the drainage system has its own specific purpose. This can cause the well to overflow, which, for example, in the case of a sewer, can lead to water leaking into the pipes of this system and into the plumbing. In addition, you should understand that a large amount of water brings various debris, which may well cause clogging of the stormwater system pipes after the water leaves. Therefore, you need to know how to properly make a storm drain.

If we consider the option of discharging the storm flow into the well of the drainage system, then in this case a large amount of water will lead to disruption of its performance and flooding of the foundation. Siltation can create an even bigger problem. drainage pipes, which requires not cleaning, but a complete replacement of the drains.

From the above, we can conclude: when installing a storm sewer, you need to make a special well, and it must have the appropriate volume. As a last resort, you can drain water into any body of water, provided it is located nearby.

Project creation and preparatory work

The correct drawing of the future storm sewer and design diagram allows you to organize effective drainage on the site when minimum costs. Therefore, before you make a storm drain with your own hands, you need to draw up its design.

To draw up a project, certain calculations are required, which are based on the following data:

• The average amount of precipitation typical for a particular region.
• Frequency of precipitation.
• Snow depth.
• Drain area.
• Roof area.
• Wastewater volume.
• Availability and location of underground communications.
• Soil properties at the site.

When deciding how to make a storm drain with your own hands, you need to calculate the volume of moisture that will be removed from the site, use the formula:

Here Q denotes the required volume of moisture, q20 is the amount of precipitation, F is the area from which water will be drained, K is correction factor, which is determined by the covering material of the area. For example, for an area covered with crushed stone, you need to take a coefficient of 0.4. An asphalt area requires the use of a coefficient of 0.95, for a roof - 1.

Based on the obtained values, the optimal pipe diameter is determined.

The depth of laying drains and trays when installing storm drains with your own hands is also determined by the local conditions. In most cases, pipes with a diameter of up to 50 cm are located at a depth of 0.3 meters, the pipeline large diameter It is recommended to place it at a depth of 0.7 meters.

When choosing the depth of the pipeline, one point should be taken into account. If it is possible to insulate pipes and other elements of storm drainage, then you don’t have to deepen the system too much. In this case, some savings are obtained by reducing the cost of excavation work.

As for the required storm drain slope for a yard with a drain, these values ​​are strictly regulated:

• Pipes with a diameter of 15 cm should be located with a slope of 8 mm per linear meter.
• Pipes with a diameter of 20 cm are laid with a slope of 7 mm per linear meter.

Construction of storm drainage

When deciding how to install a storm drain, they use the technology of laying sewer pipes. If there is no drainage system, then first of all carry out its installation.

Installation of roof drainage

It is necessary to make special holes in the roof covering and insert rainwater inlets into them. They are fixed with bitumen mastic and the joints are treated with sealant.

Ground work

Work on arranging a storm drainage system for a country house involves preparing a trench for laying the pipeline and direct installation of the system.

The actions are performed in the following order:

• The trench must be dug taking into account all the nuances, including the drawn up layout diagram, the angle of inclination and the depth of laying the pipes.
• The bottom of the trench is carefully leveled and compacted.
• Then make a sand cushion about 20 cm high.
• A pit is being constructed to install a collector well.
• Pipes are laid on a sand cushion in a trench and connected to each other using fittings.
• If the pipeline branch is more than 10 meters long, then inspection wells are additionally installed, and sand traps are installed in places where storm water inlets meet the pipes.
• Doing an inspection finished design, paying attention to the integrity of the system.
• On next stage solving the problem of how to make a storm drain on the site, check the tightness and operability of the system. For this purpose, water is poured into the water intake.
• If there are no defects, the trench is filled with soil, and the gutters and trays are covered with gratings.

Installing a storm drain is not particularly difficult, so you can make a storm drain on your site yourself. Modern storm drain allows you to extend the service life of the main structure on the site, maintain the attractiveness of sidewalks and paths, and eliminate the formation of dirt on lawns and other areas.

There is not a single private home that is not exposed to precipitation. After a good rain, a lot of moisture remains on the surface. It is especially difficult for those whose soil contains clay. The soil is constantly soggy, there are a lot of puddles and dirt in the yard. This does not make the site attractive. To get rid of this problem, you will have to install a storm drain. You can do it yourself even at the stage of building a country house.

But if your house is already standing, it doesn’t matter, a storm sewer system can be installed around the house without any problems. We will talk about this in more detail in the article.

Protection from atmospheric precipitation due to storm drainage

We live in an area where there are no areas with no precipitation. We face them all year round, in the form of rain or snow. Such high humidity harms not only the building, but also your growing crops. Standing water will not give them useful substances. And if there is also a cellar or basement at the dacha, then the liquid can easily flood them during heavy rain. How to get out of this situation?

A storm drain needs to be installed around the house. It serves to drain excess water to the right place or outside the building. In addition, if the structure is installed correctly, it will not only collect liquid, but also clean it of sand and other impurities. The output water is clean and does not harm the external environment in any way.

Components of a storm sewer design

Before proceeding with the installation of the system, it is important to know the structure of the storm drainage system in a private house. Only then can everything be done correctly so that the sewage system lasts a long time. All components of the storm sewer form a single system. Let's look at these elements.

Well

This is a special tank in which all waste water. It is important that it is large - the bigger the better. However, consider the amount of rainfall in your area. If it is small, then an average well is enough. The choice is also influenced by the size of the roof slope and the size of the area. The well can be made of concrete rings or made of plastic. The reservoir must have a bottom. This is the heart of the storm drain.

Hatch over the well

You can choose a ring and a separate plastic, metal or rubber hatch. Then the well is dug so that the lid is placed 15-20 cm lower than the ground level. To install the hatch, you will need to fill the neck or lay it out of brick. But the result will be pleasing, since you will not see any differences on the lawn. When using a ready-made cover with a hatch, the soil is poured 4-5 cm. Then the lawn will be slightly different.

Drainage channels (storage inlet trays)

This is one type of drainage channel. They look like gutters protected by grating. Made from plastic, metal, composite or reinforced concrete. They are installed in places where the amount of precipitation is highest, namely: along pedestrian paths and along roof slopes. They are installed when, when making a blind area, drainage pipes were not installed. This way you wash without destroying the blind area.

Point storm water inlets

This is the second type of drainage channel. These are smaller containers that are installed where liquid accumulates: under drain pipes and in places with low points. The body can be made of concrete or plastic. Usage concrete structures rational for the construction of deep storm drains. Storm water inlets are stacked on top of each other to the required height.

Note! Already exist plastic products, which can be adjusted to the required height.

Sand catchers

These are special devices designed to filter sand, in which it settles. Most often they use a plastic case, cheap and cheerful. They are installed at a distance on long pipeline sections. All heavy inclusions remain in them, without passing further through the system. They need to be cleaned from time to time.

Protective grilles

They prevent leaves, branches and other debris from entering the drainage. To prevent water from retaining, it is better to take middle holes. Grates can be made of cast iron, steel and aluminum alloys. The last option is the most profitable, since steel products quickly rust, and cast iron is brittle when exposed to temperature changes.

Pipes

These are the “veins” of the storm drain. It is through them that water moves. Ideal option considered to be polyethylene pipes for outdoor use. They are red in color. Due to the smooth walls, sediment will not accumulate in them. In addition, their conductivity is significantly higher than that of other pipes of the same diameter. Sometimes used cast iron pipes and from asbestos. The diameter of the pipes depends on the amount of precipitation. The minimum value is 150 mm. The bigger, the better. The pipes are placed with a slope towards the storm drain of 30 mm per 1 m (3%), and then towards the tank.

Inspection well

An important part for cleaning and maintaining the pipeline. Is it plastic or concrete well small in size, which is installed in some sections of the pipeline where the system branches.

Here are all the components of a storm drain for a country house. Thanks to it, your site will be dry and attractive.

What types of storm drainage are there?

Depending on the elements, storm drainage can be divided into several types:

1. Linear storm sewer.
2. Point storm drainage.
3. Mixed storm sewer.

As you already understand, we are talking about storm water inlets. The type of system depends on their choice. It differs both in design and purpose.

Linear storm drainage system

It is also called an open type system. It is quite simple to make, and there is no doubt about its effectiveness. Such a system consists of a network of gutters, materials known to us. It is recommended to use either composite or plastic gutters. The price-quality ratio is justified. Water enters the canals from drainpipes or paths, after which it is sent to a well or public sewer system. Everything is covered with a grill on top to protect it from debris. In addition, the grille serves as a decorative element.

The individual gutters are joined together using sealant to prevent water from penetrating into the connecting joints. If you want to make your site drier and more beautiful, then this a good option. The system has a large coverage since it can collect water from the sidewalk, path, other areas and from roof drains. In the photo you can see an example of a linear type storm drain.

Note! When installing the system, you need to slope each gutter so that water does not accumulate in it.

Point storm drainage system

It is also called a closed system. It got its name because the entire pipeline system is underground. The work process is as follows: water flowing from roofs and other surfaces enters point storm water inlets with grates, and then moves through a pipe system into a sewer or well. You can see what the system looks like in this photo.

Note! Installing underground communications is a complex matter, so it is necessary to equip the system exclusively at the stage of developing a building project. Then it will be almost impossible to do it.

Mixed storm sewer system

This type of system is used to save personal funds and effort. It is clear that the installation of an open system will take less time, effort and money than a closed storm drain. But mixed sewerage is something in between. It includes elements of both types.

Do-it-yourself storm drainage system in a private house

Now that you know everything about the water drainage system, you can begin to describe the installation process. We will look at all the work step by step.

You can learn more about how you can install a storm drain for your home from this video.

Advantages of storm water drainage

1. The system both receives water flows and immediately removes them.
2. The components for a storm drainage system are relatively inexpensive.
3. It's easy to install a sewer system.
4. Regular cleansing is quick and effective.
5. There are practically no corners or intersections in the system, so it rarely gets clogged.
6. The liquid is drained along the shortest path.

If you are tired of constantly stepping into puddles and bringing dirt into your house, then a storm drainage system will solve all your problems.

When prolonged rains begin, the water accumulating in the area saturates the ground, but the soil quickly becomes oversaturated with moisture, and now puddles form, the lowlands are flooded along with the plants. If you allow rainwater to accumulate, over time there is a chance that the soil under buildings will float or the basement will be flooded, not to mention ruined plantings. To avoid all this, care should be taken in advance to remove precipitation.

Types of waste systems - choosing water collectors

The name of this engineering structure common to all designs - drainage system. But how it will be located on the area around the house - options are possible. There are point and line types. The features of their device can be understood from the names. The first method of draining rainwater involves installing receiving funnels with lattice or mesh traps for various debris. To be effective, all nearby surfaces must be inclined towards such a funnel. The second type is gratings laid over a certain segment over a gutter or shallow ditch.

You can also choose the method of arrangement of the collecting and discharging elements of the system. This can be a buried network of large-diameter pipes with good throughput and special inspection wells. This option is good because it is invisible and therefore does not spoil it at all. landscape design local area. The main disadvantage is that it will take a lot earthworks. You can also lay a network of gutters along the surface, covering them with gratings. Stretching along garden paths, such water collectors will be noticeable, but will not disturb the appearance of the landscaped area, and this type is easier to install with your own hands.

Basic norms - what do you need to know about SNiP?

There are certain rules for laying a storm drainage system, which directly depend on the diameter of the pipes you purchase and the depth of soil freezing. So, for example, if you take corrugated drainage with the smallest diameter of 110 mm, it is advisable to reduce the slope by about 20 millimeters per meter. The next standard diameter of drainage channels is 150 mm; it has a large capacity, so it is enough to make a slope of only 10 millimeters. All other standard sizes, starting from 200 mm, can be laid with a lowering of the ditch bottom by 7 millimeters for each linear meter of pipe.

At the same time, it is highly advisable to calculate in advance the throughput capacity of your drainage system based on the amount of precipitation falling at a time for each square meter surfaces. There are special climate maps for this, but it is easier to use the average statistical data for each region. Next, the selected value is substituted into the formula for calculating the volume (in liters) that the drain will have to pass per unit of time (per second): Q = q 20 × F × ℘ . Here q 20 – precipitation intensity, F – surface area of ​​the drain from which rainwater is collected, and ℘ - coefficient of moisture absorption by the coating. To use the formula, use the following rainfall intensity data, selecting the appropriate region:

Moscow – 80;

Krasnodar – 100;

Nizhny Novgorod – 90;

Samara – 70;

Saratov – 70;

Volgograd – 60;

Rostov-on-Don – 90;

St. Petersburg – 60;

Kazan – 80.

Roof – 1;

Asphalt concrete pavements – 0.95;

Cement concrete coatings – 0.85;

Crushed stone coverings – 0.25–0.6;

Gravel coverings – 0.15–0.3;

Grass area depending on the soil – 0.05–0.35.

All that remains is to calculate the surface area from which the precipitation that falls on it must be removed. Whether it’s a roof or a path near a house, its shape is most often rectangular, which means calculations won’t take much time. Now we substitute all the numerical values ​​into the formula and find out how many liters per second your drainage pipe should pass.

Elements of watercourses - construction kit for sewerage

Regardless of what the parts of the storm drain are made of, the assembly is usually standard. Are used special blocks, fittings and connecting elements, similar to fittings for water pipes. All these components are divided into three groups, each of which has a specific purpose:

• for collecting water, melt and rain, from roofs, paths, lawns;
• to drain water away from the house and paths;
• for accumulation and use in irrigation of rain and melt water.

Collecting water from the roof

Part of the system is mounted on the roof and walls of the house. Gutters are attached along the overhangs into which precipitation falling on the slopes flows. Further along the guide watercourses, the collected water enters special funnels, collection or outlet, to which vertical waste pipes are connected. If necessary, this design uses tees to connect additional hoses, as well as elbows to change the direction of drainage. At the bottom there is a drain elbow that directs the stream into the storm sewer receiver.

Water collection elements of the drainage system

To prevent precipitation from spreading over the surface of the earth, special collecting and draining structures are used. Point storm drains are installed under the sewer pipes of the house, and trays covered with gratings are placed near the porch. In both cases, these elements only accept water flowing into them, which then enters pipes hidden underground. To construct a surface drainage system, gutters are used, which are also capable of receiving excess moisture from the surface, for example, from paths. At the same time, these elements also direct the collected water either outside the site or into the purification system.

Depending on whether the storm drain is external or buried, the same gutter or pipe is used as the main element, respectively. In the first case, almost the entire network runs along the surface of the site, with the exception of water collectors, and in the second, it is laid at the bottom of dug trenches and covered with soil. Also, in most cases, both types of elements are used in combination when it is necessary to direct water from gutters laid along paths and in the local area into buried collectors. The pipes are usually made of polypropylene and have a corrugated outer surface with perforations - tiny holes for moisture to escape.

Purifiers and storage tanks in storm drains

If melt and rainwater are not directed through gutters or pipes outside the site (there are no drains or ravines outside the site), care must be taken to ensure that purifiers and storage tanks are used in the system. Storm inlets and gutters with trays are connected to special sand traps - tanks in which the outlet pipes are located significantly above the bottom. Small particles of suspended soil carried by water settle in the lower part of the tank, and clean water is directed into the system through the outlet openings. Must be installed check valve so that when the pipes overflow, water does not come to the surface and flood the area.

To branch the network, special tees are installed, and where 4 watercourses converge, they are connected under an inspection well. The latter can be installed directly above the storage tank, which is called a collector, or instead of it, depending on the intensity of precipitation. It is also mandatory to use siphons in front of the storage tanks, which do not allow the smell of stagnant water to escape. Collectors as closing elements of storm sewers are needed only in cases where precipitation and melt water are very abundant. For the same purposes, you can install a regular one.

In some cases, it is possible to connect a storm drain to a garden drainage system so that excess water gradually enters the soil through perforated pipes.

Construction of a buried system - sequence of work

First of all, you should draw up a plan for laying drainage pipes across the site, taking into account the plantings and location of buildings, including a residential building. You should also take into account the paths if they are already laid. By the way, it is better to lay surface system gutters along them, making the coating slope from the center to the edges. Next, trenches are dug. The depth, as mentioned earlier, depends on the thickness to which it freezes. upper layer soil. From this level to a pipe whose diameter is less than 500 millimeters, there must be at least 30 centimeters. For larger diameters, increase the depth from the lowest freezing point to 50 centimeters. In general, the height of the trench wall from the edge to the bottom should be at least 70 centimeters.

However, when starting the installation of a storm drain, one should also take into account at what level from the soil surface they lie groundwater. If they are located too high, it is better to make the ditch shallow, strengthening the bottom with a carefully compacted layer of clay, and insulating the pipe. Next, according to the markings, we dig holes for sand traps, storm wells and collectors. For pipes up to 150 millimeters, the distance between inspection shafts should be no more than 35 meters. For watercourses up to 450 millimeters, a gap of 50 meters between wells is sufficient. If pipes up to 600 millimeters or more are used, the distance between storm wells can be increased to 75 meters.

It is highly desirable that the diameter of the inspection well shaft be at least 1 meter to make it easier to remove blockages in the system.

All ditches are dug in compliance with the previously specified slope from the house to the location of the collector or septic tank or to the border of the site where the water collected by the storm sewer will be discharged. A sand cushion 10 centimeters thick is laid at the bottom, if necessary, on top of compacted clay. To avoid silting of the system, you can wrap the pipes with geotextiles during installation. For connection individual parts special couplings are used. Sand traps are installed at the junctions of individual sections, from which there is a direct water flow to the well. The entire branched network gradually converges into one sleeve, which is connected to a collector or septic tank. Then the system is covered with soil.

System maintenance - what are the protection methods?

In cold winters, temperatures can drop to abnormal levels for the area, and soil freezing will be deeper than usual. But the drainage system should not freeze, since in the event of sudden warming it will thaw much longer than the snow cover. In order to protect the sewer system from frost, an artificial heating system is used. To do this, during the installation process, a special self-regulating material is wrapped around the pipe. electrical cable. This option is convenient because the heat transferred to the drainage element will depend on the external temperature. The more the soil freezes, the more the pipe will heat up.

After the cable is wound in frequent turns around the drainage sleeve, thermal insulation is put on top. It should be protected from getting wet by the geotextile wrapped in the next layer. Also, on frosty days, you can create a forced flow of water, in which case the resulting crust of ice should break and be washed off with a stream. This is achieved by using a pump that will supply water under pressure to the storm drain. The same option is also suitable for periodically flushing the system. But in order to avoid its contamination, it is highly advisable to close the inspection shafts with hatches, and the rainwater inlets with frequent gratings.

If blockages do occur, first of all the trays and funnels of the rainwater catchers are cleaned. Then you need to start inspecting the storm wells and only after thoroughly cleaning them - to identify any blockages in the pipes. It’s easier with a gutter system - just lift all the grates to identify the reason for the delay in water flow. Cleaning or simply inspection must be carried out after each heavy rainfall or after heavy melting of snow. To clean the drainage system pipes, a regular sewer cable is used.

A clean and dry yard after rain, no puddles on the lawn or washed out beds, healthy plants and perfectly smooth paths are the result of competent planning and installation of surface drainage. It is difficult to achieve such a result on your own without significant expenses, but it is possible if you make storm drainage with your own hands to drain the surface and remove rainwater. In combination with a storm drain (a system for draining water from the roof), the drainage network will also reduce the amount of moisture penetrating into the deep layers of the soil - the load on the deep foundation drainage network will decrease.

It is worth planning the layout of drainage networks and storm water systems even before the start of construction. Foundation protection in the form of a wall system is easier to install if the foundation pit is not backfilled. While construction is underway and there is equipment on site, it is advisable to order trench digging so as not to dig manually and carry dirt into the landscaped area. Protection from melt and rain water is:

Stormwater and drainage around the perimeter of the house

• Surface linear storm drainage – collection and drainage of rainwater from the ground surface.

• Storm drainage is the removal of water flowing down drainpipes.

• Point drainage – drainage of local areas with problematic natural outflow.

Scheme for removing moisture from the surface: drainage system

Storm sewer network

The storm sewer network is equipped with a connection to the public main if there is a collector or city storm drain pipe nearby. In the case when the branches of the city network are located at a large distance, the output of the local drainage system and storm sewerage is organized in 2 ways: to a filtration field (an area covered with crushed stone to drain moisture into the ground), or to receiving tank(drainage well, pond, roadside ditch). Drain from private storm drain into the general household sewer system is prohibited.

System elements:

• Drainage gutters, which are mounted along the edge of the roof slopes.
• Drainpipes.
• Water intake tanks.

Receiving tank with outlet

• External sewer pipes that are connected to water intake tanks.

The containers are mounted under the outlet of the drainpipe, connecting the pipe to the sewer pipe. Pipes are dug in at an angle to the drainage point.

Drainage: features of a surface storm system

The site surface drainage system consists of point and linear outlet branches connected into one network with outlet to the water intake. Storm drainage on the site is arranged in the form of open channels dug at a slope to the drainage point. Marking is carried out only after studying the direction of natural outflow during heavy rain. Be sure to form drainage lines:

Drainage network: point catch basins and storm trenches

• Along the perimeter of the site.

• On slopes and on sites in natural depressions.

Drainage branches on a slope

• Around the paths.

Storm drainage around the house is a line of trenches laid along the blind area along the entire perimeter of the buildings. To drain the tiled yard, channels are formed at the entrance to the garage, near the porch, and steps.

Point drainage outlets are dug in places where there is no need to lay drainage channels: under watering taps, near the outlet of drainpipes (in areas where there is no storm sewer). Drainage from point drainage wells is discharged into a discharge pipe of a common surface network.

Integration: is it possible to combine stormwater with a drainage network?

Two separate networks: drainage and stormwater

The optimal scheme for draining a site with a house is separate drainage networks and storm drains around the house. It is undesirable to connect linear channels with sewerage: during heavy rainfalls or rapid melting of snow, one pipe may not cope and overflow will occur through the water intakes.

It is advisable to connect stormwater and drainage in one trench only in one case: if the trench is dug for a drainage outlet from a point drainage and sewer pipes are used rather than perforated pipes. The pipes are laid parallel along the bottom of the concreted trench. Lay sealed sewer pipe into a channel with drainage backfill is prohibited: the diameter of the pipe will reduce the useful volume of the ditch and create difficulties when cleaning the trench.

General drainage of point drainage and storm water into a filtration tunnel

Instead of trying to connect stormwater and linear drainage in one pipe, it is better to make a common receiver, especially if it is not possible to tie into a city highway. Rainwater can be used for irrigation or filling artificial reservoirs. The receiver is set to plastic tanks, or they make wells without a bottom - to drain the incoming liquid into the ground.

How to make storm drainage in and around a country house

Storm drainage is surface system, which does not require extensive excavation work or digging deep trenches, so you can do simple wiring with your own hands. Before starting work, the places where lines and drainage points must be constructed are determined, and the drainage trajectory is planned. It is possible to detect all places where natural outflow is insufficient during heavy rainfall and after the snow begins to melt. Also requires installation of a branched line storm drainage an area with clayey, moisture-saturated soil that does not absorb water from the surface.

For preliminary calculations of quantity necessary materials It is worth drawing a diagram of the canals on the site plan.

Storm drainage installation plan

Materials: what you will need to install a storm drainage network

List of materials needed for independent device storm drainage of the site and installation of the system around the perimeter of the house:

• Trays (gutters) for installation around the foundation. Manufacturing materials – plastic, polymer concrete mixture, concrete. Plastic channels are installed in areas where there is minimal physical impact on the grates: along the edges of the lawn, in flower beds. Concrete gutters are strong and durable. This tray can withstand loads of up to 25 tons. Installed in places of high loads: in courtyards where there is constant traffic, on access roads. Protective grilles are also chosen: metal and cast iron - for areas with intense load, decorative plastic - for lawns and gardens.

• Connecting elements, spacers, bases. Auxiliary materials, which the manufacturer recommends to use when assembling channels. Be sure to install spacers inside plastic trays.
• Sand catchers. Separately, products are purchased for installation in a linear system and for installation in storm water inlets.

On the walls - preparation for pipe outlet

• Storm water inlets. Preferably ready-made plastic containers are used. The outer walls are equipped with preparation for connection to the outlet. Plastic receivers are easily installed on top of each other - you can assemble a container of any height.

Containers with basket and attachments

• Geotextiles. Cloth for drainage backfill channels not equipped with gutters.

Synthetic water-permeable fabric

1. Crushed stone, sand. The crushed stone fraction is medium and coarse.
2. Mortar for pouring the base under gutters and water inlets.
3. Drainage wells. Finished plastic or corrugated pipe large diameter.

Factory PVC drainage wells

• Pipes for external sewerage with fittings.
• Construction tool. You will need rough boards for formwork in the channels, pegs and fishing line for marking, shovels, picks, and a building level.

Installation of point water intakes

Point water inlets are stormwater and drainage elements installed under the outlet of drains. It is necessary to plan the installation so that the flow from the drain falls exactly in the center of the grate.

The edge of the well should be flush with the decorative coating

The dimensions of the hole for installing the container are determined by the height of the receiver, adding up to 30 - 40 cm for bedding and base. There should be a gap of up to 5 cm along the perimeter on each side. Dig a hole, level the walls and bottom. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the bottom and the angle so that the container does not move during installation.

Checking horizontal level

A dense ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand is formed at the bottom. A layer of crushed stone up to 25 cm high is laid on the sand cushion. It is advisable to fill the bottom with concrete mortar. The poured base is left for several days until it hardens completely, or the container is fixed in fresh solution (if necessary, permanent fixation).

A rainwater inlet is installed on a concrete base so that the container lid is at the same level as the blind area. If installation is carried out before laying decorative covering, then leave the free edge of the well above the ground to the height of the tile or stone.

Correct installation receiver

The side gaps are filled with crushed stone or filled with concrete. Before backfilling, a fitting is connected to the outlet to drain the pipe. Install internal parts: basket, partitions, fix the lid.

Arrangement of an open storm system around the foundation

Stormwater drainage along the perimeter of the building can be planned in the form of a ring closed at the collection point, without inspection wells. Demountable sand traps are provided for cleaning. Device Rules linear system:

• The distance from the edge of the foundation should be 50 cm. It is optimal to plan the channels along the edge of the paths or blind area.

Trays - along the edge of the blind area with a height reserve for paving slabs

• The depth of the channels is determined by the height of the tray with a decorative lid with the addition of the height of the bulk layer - up to 40 cm.

• Width – up to 50 cm.

To ensure that the installed gutters do not move or deform over time, several rules must be followed during excavation work. The bottom and walls must be smooth and solid. At the bottom, a standard sand cushion and crushed stone bedding must be made.

Plastic tray, mounted on a factory stand

To prevent the tray (especially a plastic one) from becoming deformed, it is better to make a concrete base for installation. The thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm.

Laying the gutter on the solution

Gutters are installed in the prepared trenches. The structures are connected to each other with special locks. The extreme points (at the beginning and end of the line) are covered with plastic or metal plugs. If plastic gutters are used, factory spacers are installed inside.

Sand trap in drainage line

The gaps between the trays and the walls of the trench are filled with crushed stone or concreted. On long sections, sand traps are installed - deep trays with a mechanical filter. At the installation sites, discharge pipes are connected to the sand traps. Trenches for discharge pipes are dug at an angle.

Budget storm drainage of the site: building open channels

You can drain rainwater from garden paths, flower beds and along fences in an economical way. open method. Instead of ready-made trays, backfill storm drainage channels are installed. Trenches are dug along the planned lines. Depth – from 50 cm, width – from 50 – 60 cm.

Instead of gutters - backfill trench

The branch is formed with a slope towards the receiving tank. The walls are at an angle to the bottom to reduce the pressure of flowing water. The bottom is filled with sand. Check the correctness of the slope. For one meter – up to 3 cm height difference.

Pipe in crushed stone backfill

On sand layer geotextiles are laid. The edges are left free. The entire width of the trench is filled with crushed stone in a layer of up to 30 cm. A system with a perforated drainage pipe inside the crushed stone backfill will be more durable. Fold the edges of the fabric overlapping.

Dry stream with decorative backfill - a beautiful drainage line

The drainage collar is covered with decorative material on top: river pebbles, multi-colored chips, stone. Dry streams are an aesthetic and economical solution.

Drainage well and drain outlet

Drainage well– system connection point. With a moderate amount of water and good water-absorbing characteristics of the soil, the drainage tank is installed on crushed stone cushion. Through a well without a bottom, water penetrates into the ground.

Drainage well with backfill bottom

If installing a filter well is not possible, then drainage tank the liquid is discharged into the general storm water main or discharged outside the site - into a natural reservoir or ditch. The outlet from the well can be connected to a pond or receiving tank dug into the area.

Video: installation of storm drains around the house

Stormwater and linear open drainage are only the superficial part of foundation protection. It is necessary to create 3–4 types of drainage systems along the perimeter of buildings at different depths. Choosing a method of organization and technical parameters networks depends on the composition of the soil and the depth of the foundation. It’s not worth making deep drainage networks yourself. Calculations should be carried out by specialists, and it is better to install trench branches immediately after pouring the foundation. Even before the start of construction, deep reservoir drainage is installed. Not only the ability of the system to drain water into large quantities, but also the durability of the foundation.

Your favorite shoes are probably well familiar with the delights of a poorly functioning city storm drain. Often, after a “dense” meeting with deep puddles accumulated on the asphalt, beloved shoes and boots leave only pleasant memories and photographs. For a city dweller, the loss of shoes is the maximum damage; for the owner of a country house, the damage is more extensive. To ensure that atmospheric water does not slowly but persistently destroy the foundation, does not flood basements, and does not contribute to the rotting of the root system of plants on the site, water drainage is required. A not-too-complicated do-it-yourself storm drain can easily be organized by a contractor who has nothing to do with construction specialties.

Purpose and specifics of the storm drainage device

Storm sewerage is a complex of devices and channels that collect, filter and drain atmospheric moisture into filtration fields, special reservoirs, and reservoirs. Its task is to eliminate excess moisture, which creates discomfort, destroys structures and reduces life cycle plants.

The storm drain is a linear network that includes such standard elements as:

• storm water inlets, represented by funnels, pallets, linear trays that collect water;
• gutters, pipes, trays transporting water to sand traps - filtration devices, and further to collectors, ditches, reservoirs, and unloading fields;
• inspection wells required to control the stormwater system;

filters, sand traps that retain soil particles, plant fibers and debris, protecting the network from contamination.

Storm drainage is a complex of channels and devices that collect excess atmospheric moisture, filter it and discharge it first into a collector well, then to unloading points

Options for rainwater inlets for storm drainage: on the left there is a door pan, in the middle there is a funnel receiving water from the drain, on the right there is a gutter with a sand catcher

All elements are combined into an integral system operating using linear or point technology. If storm sewer channels are laid in the ground, pipes are used for their construction. In surface ditches, gutters and trays made of plastic, asbestos or concrete are installed.

Important. To ensure the natural movement of rain and melt water to the places of filtration and unloading, pipes, trays, gutters are laid with a slope towards the drainage devices and unloading places.

Classification according to wastewater collection method

Depending on the collection principle according to which the storm drainage system is installed, all existing storm drains are divided into two types.

Point systems, which include rainwater inlets installed under the gutters of internal and external drains. Each device receiving atmospheric water is connected to a common main line. According to technical specifications storm water inlets are equipped with special gratings and sand traps that prevent suspended soil particles from penetrating into the system, plant residues, garbage.

Point type of storm drain: a storm inlet is installed under a drain; the funnel receiving water is equipped with a mesh for filtration and an internal basket for collecting debris

A linear type of storm drain, which is a network of channels laid underground or in slightly buried trenches. Trays that collect and move water, laid in an open way, are also equipped with sand traps and equipped with gratings. Only gratings are installed along the entire line. Unlike point diagram linear sewerage collects water not only from roof drains, but also from paths, from areas covered with concrete, paved with paving bricks. This type of sewer "covers" and processes more objects.

A linear storm drainage scheme can cover a large area, draining runoff not only from the roof, but also from landscaped areas, from sidewalks, and from those sides of the house where, due to the specifics pitched design no gutters

Based on design differences and extent of territory coverage, the type of system is selected. However, these are not fundamental selection criteria. Basically, storm sewerage in a dacha is arranged according to the experience available in a particular area in the organization and operation of storm sewer systems. Based on it, the type of channel laying and their depth are determined.

Preliminary calculations and design

Implementation of plans without calculations is money down the drain. If the system does not cope with the function assigned to it by the owner, there is no point in undertaking its construction at all, and a storm sewer system that is too powerful for a private house will “eat up” a lot of financial resources.

Video: design and installation rules

Information required for calculations

• Data on the average amount of precipitation recorded by meteorologists in a specific area. You can find them in SNiP 2.04.03-85.
• The frequency of rains, the thickness of the snow cover, necessary for those who plan to use the system and for draining melt water.
• Drain area. For the point variety, this is the roof area. Moreover, not the full value, but the value of its projection in the plane. For a linear system, the drainage area will be the sum of the areas of all processed objects.
• Physical and mechanical characteristics of soils available on the site.
• The presence and location of existing underground communications already on the site.

Calculation of the volume of discharged wastewater

The above exact values ​​of the amount and intensity of precipitation are the result of many years of research. physical phenomena in the atmosphere of a given area. They can be found in SNiP or obtained from the local weather service. Further calculations are made using the formula.

Formula for calculating atmospheric water flow, as well as constants and variables used in calculations

The correction factor used in this formula is:

• 0.4 for areas covered with crushed stone;
• 0.85 for concreted areas;
• 0.95 for asphalt areas and paths;
• 1.0 for roofs.

We obtained the volume value, then the required pipeline diameter is determined using the tables of the current SNiP.

Channel laying depth

Trays or channels made of pipes must be laid at the depth at which they are usually laid in a given region. You can find out the exact value from a construction organization or ask neighbors who have already equipped their area with storm water. IN middle lane The rainwater drainage system is usually installed at a depth of 0.3 meters, if the diameter of the pipeline or open trays is not more than 50 cm. Trays and pipes with larger dimensions are buried by 0.7 m.

Important point. If the site has a drainage system, storm drainage is laid above the drainage.

If a drainage system is already installed on the territory, the storm drain is located higher

The high cost of excavation work usually does not stimulate the desire of customers professional installation go deep into the ground. Even if you decide to install a storm drain yourself, there is no point in burying it too deeply. There is no reason to install collectors and inspection wells below the seasonal freezing level, as GOSTs dictate. They can be placed higher, insulated thermal insulation material- geotextile and a layer of crushed stone that protects the network from freezing. Due to the slight depth, the labor intensity of the work is significantly reduced.

Insulation of storm sewers in case of slight deepening is carried out from a layer of geotextile and a layer of crushed stone; thanks to the protection of the channels from freezing, you can significantly save on excavation work

However, we must not forget that the channels to the collection and cleaning devices must be directed at an angle. This means that the level of the entry point into the collector well must be lower than the level of the tray or pipe extending from the storm inlet. To accurately calculate the depth of their installation, you need to draw a site plan and, taking into account the slope of the channels, calculate everything.

Scheme of a storm drain, the channels of which are laid below the freezing depth; insulating geotextiles protect in this case from the aggression of groundwater

Standards and norms of slopes

GOST regulates the minimum slope for pipes with a 150 mm diameter of 0.008 (slope value in mm/m). Pipes with a cross-section of 200 mm are laid at an angle of 0.007. Depending on site conditions, pipe slopes may vary slightly. The largest slope is 0.02 in the area where the canal joins the storm water inlet, since in this place it is necessary to increase the speed of water gravity. In front of the sand traps, the flow velocity must slow down so that suspended particles can “settle”; the angle of inclination is the smallest there.

Devices for collecting water in envelope-type systems with rainwater inlets-funnels are installed at the intersection points of slopes.

The process and specifics of storm drain installation

The rules for carrying out installation work on the installation of storm drains are identical to the principles for laying conventional external sewer pipelines. However, if the house is not equipped with gutters, you need to start by installing them.

The rules for installing a storm drainage system are similar to the rules for installing conventional sewerage

Construction of the roofing component

• You need to make holes in the floors of the house for rainwater inlets. After installing the devices and attaching them to bitumen mastic, the junction points must be sealed.
• Sewage pipes and risers are installed.
• All elements must be attached to the house structures using clamps.

Scheme of the roofing part of the storm drain: 1. gutter; 2. external corner of the gutter; 3. inner corner of the gutter; 4. gutter plug; 5. gutter connector; 6. hook; 7. hook; 8. funnel; 9. drainage funnel; 10. pipe elbow; 11. drain pipe; 12. connecting pipe; 13. pipe bracket (on brick); 14. pipe bracket (on wood); 15. drain elbow; 16. pipe tee

Construction of the underground part

According to the planned plan, drawn up taking into account the slopes and the depth of canals accepted in the given region, it is necessary to dig a trench. If you plan to insulate the pipeline by forming a shell of geotextile and crushed stone around it, or installing a cushion of sand, their power should also be taken into account. Here's how we proceed:

• The bottom of the trench is thoroughly compacted before installation. Large stones encountered during digging are removed, and the holes formed after their removal are filled with soil.
• A sand cushion is poured onto the bottom, standard thickness its 20 cm.
• A pit is being formed to install a collector tank. The easiest way to use a collector is to use a ready-made plastic container, but if you wish, you can make a collector well yourself by pouring concrete into pre-arranged formwork.

Pipes are laid in compacted ditches equipped with sand cushions, and fittings are used to connect them into a single system.

Connections of underground drainage channels are made using fittings

• It is recommended to include inspection wells in straight storm drain branches longer than 10 m.
• Sand traps must be installed at the junction points between the collectors receiving atmospheric water and the pipeline.
• All devices and fixtures are connected into one circuit, the connection points of the components are sealed.

Before filling the trench, it is necessary to carry out tests by pouring water into the water intakes. As a result of testing, no weaknesses were found? We fill the system laid in the trench with soil, and equip the gutters, trays, and pallets with gratings.

Before backfilling the trench, the constructed system must be checked, all defects and leaks should be identified and eliminated if they occur.

Advice. Pitched roof structures are not equipped with gutters on all sides. Where they are not available, it is recommended to install gutters with gratings and connect them to the general network.

The city collector well is prohibited from being discharged into the general sewer network due to the presence of chemicals and petroleum products in the wastewater. The owner of a country house can freely connect a storm drain to his own sewer system, because it contains no dangerous components that require fine cleaning.

After cleaning in the sand trap, the water enters the sewer, from where it can be distributed directly into the ground, discharged into reservoirs or into the regular sewer network of a private home.

Improving the house and surrounding area with a surface drainage system will help extend the life of structures, relieve the owners from puddles and slush, and prevent rotting of plant roots. A simple do-it-yourself storm drainage system can be installed by the owner himself, but even if you turn to builders, information about the specifics of its organization will not hurt. The owner himself will be able to monitor violations, repair and clean them.