Repair in a private house is a set of measures that includes the replacement plumbing equipment And heating system, new flooring flooring and updating the finishes. One of the first steps finishing works is the alignment of the walls. Plastering the surface is the most popular way to eliminate such defects. How to plaster walls with your own hands, which solution is better to choose, what is the technology for applying plaster? You can find answers to these and many other questions in our review article.

On construction market The plaster is presented in the form of a mixture of powdery consistency, packaged in sealed bags. Its components are additives and binders. Before use, the bulk mixture is diluted with water in the proportions specified in the instructions. Special additives included in the plaster help improve the quality of work and provide the coating with special strength and durability.

When choosing a plaster mortar, a number of factors must be taken into account:

• type of surface being processed;
• peculiarity of the room (high humidity, dampness, etc.);
• deadlines for completing finishing work.

Today, gypsum and cement plasters are available for sale. In order to answer the question of what mortar to plaster walls with, it is necessary to consider the advantages and disadvantages of each type and determine the type of surface to be treated.

Part cement plaster includes special additives, fractionated sand and cement. Its main advantage is low cost. Ultimately, the solution provides a durable and strong coating that can withstand the effects of negative factors (high humidity, temperature changes). This mixture is used for external and internal works, mainly to hide significant irregularities. The drying time of the cement mortar depends on the degree of humidity and temperature in the room, as well as on the thickness of the applied layer. It is recommended to start finishing directly after 10 days from completion plastering works.

When choosing gypsum plaster, it is necessary to take into account the conditions under which it can be used. The gypsum-based solution is intended for finishing work in rooms with optimal level humidity. Its main advantages: plasticity, quick adhesion to the surface, uniform application, and the ability to allow vapor to pass through.

Looking ahead, it is worth noting that the technology for plastering walls made of concrete, brick or foam concrete is different. For example, a foam concrete surface is pre-treated with a primer deep penetration and only then are they plastered.

We will pay special attention to decorative plaster. Among its many advantages are: resistance to mechanical stress, excellent adhesion to any type of surface, microporous structure that allows the walls to “breathe”. In practice, they are used to create original interiors. The best way to plaster the walls is up to you.

Set of necessary tools:

• construction trowel, large spatula;
• grater;
• brush for wetting the plastered surface;
• rule.

Plaster application technology

1. Having determined the best way to plaster the walls, proceed directly to the plastering work. The initial stage includes surface preparation. Old coatings, dirt and dust are removed from the walls; eliminate significant defects (large cracks, holes, mechanical damage). In order to improve adhesion, foam concrete, aerated concrete, and concrete are treated with a deep penetration primer.

2. Preparation of the solution. The quality of the work performed largely depends on how accurately the proportions were maintained when mixing the dry mixture with water. To obtain a solution of the desired consistency, you must follow the instructions included with the plaster. Using a drill with a mixing attachment will allow you to obtain a homogeneous mass without lumps. How to plaster walls with your own hands without relevant experience? The answer is simple - follow our instructions and recommendations. Ready solution can be used within half an hour from the moment of mixing it, so we recommend diluting the mixture in small portions.

3. The work is carried out in three stages. The first layer of plaster is created by spraying the walls with a liquid solution. Recommended thickness for concrete and brick surfaces– 5 mm, for wooden ones – 10 mm. The spray cannot be leveled. the main task the first layer - to ensure good adhesion and fill the pores. The main thickness of the entire coating is the thicker solution (primer) applied to the walls. The final layer is the covering. Its thickness should not exceed two millimeters. After the thick mixture has set on the surface, it is rubbed with a trowel in a circular motion (the degree of pressure depends on the presence of bumps or depressions on the surface). This is the technology for plastering walls.

• plastering work indoors must be carried out under a certain temperature conditions. If we're talking about O cement-sand mortar, then positive temperatures in the room are allowed in the range from 5 to 30 degrees;
• each subsequent layer of plaster is applied after the previous one has dried well;
• applying lime mortar to gypsum plaster can lead to peeling of the layer;
• which mortar to plaster the walls is best determined taking into account financial opportunities, the presence or absence of experience, set deadlines (as has been noted, gypsum mortars dry much faster than cement ones), type of surface;
• During the entire process, it is necessary to control the evenness of the surface using building regulations;
• In case of significant shortcomings, beacons are used. They will allow you to get the perfect flat surface both horizontally and vertically.

Applying facade plaster with your own hands is not so difficult. You just need to follow some rules and then all the work can be done independently.

In this case, the final price will not be high. Below you will be given instructions on the rules for performing the work and given necessary recommendations. You can also learn a lot of useful information in the video in this article.

Types and methods of application

Before doing the application work facade plaster, you need to choose the right material. After all, there are several types and you need to choose the right one. The video on applying facade plaster will give you recommendations on this issue.

Types of facade plaster

Before starting plastering work on the facade, it is worth deciding on the type of mixture, since there are several options. The choice of plaster is largely influenced by the climatic conditions of your region of residence, as well as the type of material with which the facade is finished.

Let's look at the main existing basic types:

Attention: Silicone grade is the most expensive and best option among those proposed. He absorbed everything positive characteristics the types described above. A polymer compound is taken as the basis for it.

Another criterion for classifying facade plaster is the method of its application and texture:

• Pebble the option assumes the homogeneity of the layer containing a large number of grains. After the grouting is done, the appearance of the plaster resembles small pebbles located very close to each other. The perfect solution for decorating the facade of a building located in a polluted area, since such texture does not retain dirt.
• Texture "Bark beetle"(see Decorative bark beetle plaster: features of the material) - a type widely used in construction. It got its name because it creates the illusion of being eaten away by a beetle; it looks like numerous grooves. To obtain this texture, a plastic trowel is passed over a fresh layer of plaster. The surface is drawn in several directions: vertically, horizontally, in a circle. By experimenting with grain size, you can achieve maximum expressiveness of the texture.
• Mosaic view represents colored plaster glassy type. It is based on small multi-colored pebbles and transparent resin. Excellent for decorating plinths, balustrades, and slopes. Dirt and soot practically do not accumulate in it, and it is easy to clean.

Application tool

After you have chosen the type plaster mixture, you should prepare the materials and tools necessary for the work:

• A primer that provides reliable protection surfaces;
• Beacons, with their help, the quality of the applied layer is controlled;
• Reinforcing mesh to prevent cracks;
• Corners for mating surfaces;
• Spatulas;
• Grater;
• Rule;
• Knives.

Recommendations for work related to façade plastering

Applying plaster to a facade involves working with a large surface area, so there are some rules that should be followed:

• Strictly follow the technology for preparing the plaster mixture;
• Use the same ingredients for the entire technological cycle;
• Properly divide the work surface into gripping zones;
• Prepare in advance all the tools required for the work, as well as materials in full;
• Perform all actions carefully and avoid negligence.

Compliance with these rules will allow you to get high-quality work and an attractive facade.

Hello dear friends. Why buy the services of a professional plasterer if their cost is twice or even three times more expensive? Supplies? You can do the repairs yourself, even if you are new to this area.

Quick plastering of walls is much easier than it seems - you just have to start. Plastering walls takes about 2-3 days (per 14 m2). The leveling time also depends on the thickness of the applied layer, the experience of the technician and the area of ​​the room. Here you will get a clear step by step instructions With practical advice and recommendations for each stage.

Application methods decorative plaster a lot of

Before starting work, select an application method that corresponds to further plans. For now existing methods Wall plasters are divided into two categories:

1. Dry - sheathing with plasterboard;

“Dry plaster” is used if there are no further plans for wall cladding heavy materials(stone, porcelain stoneware, tiles). The cost is two times cheaper than wet.

2. Wet plaster - for leveling it is necessary to apply mixtures based on cement or gypsum.

The dry plastering method is conditional - in practice, walls are covered with plasterboard, so let’s look at the classic second method and how it’s done.

Required tools and materials

• Bags of plaster.
• Beacons 6 mm.
• Impact drill or hammer drill.
• Hammer.
• Grinder or metal scissors.
• Crosshead screwdriver.
• Plastic dowels.
• An adapter with SDS+ to ½, and for a hammer drill there is also a quick-release drill chuck for mixing the solution without an attachment.
• Drill bits for hammer drills (6 mm are most often used).
• Self-tapping screws for wood (rare pitch, black).

Dowels, drills, and screws are selected depending on how the surface needs to be plastered - they should not be short

• Level 2 m.
• Plumb.
• Aluminum rule (2.5 m for placing beacons/checking, 2 m for applying plaster).
• Putty knife.
• Steel smoother.
• Mixer attachment.
• Wide brush/roller and tray.
• Bucket.
• Roulette.
• Primer.
• Cotton gloves.

Preparing the premises

Now that necessary tools In stock, your own premises are being prepared. If it was residential, you need to take things out, the furniture is placed in the center of the room and covered with film. The floor is also covered with a layer of sawdust or film. To prevent water from accidentally getting on the wires, they are insulated.

During the cleaning process, the old coating is removed down to the base. The whitewash can be spread with paste and, after drying, removed with a spatula. Wallpaper is wetted and removed wire brush or scraper. Detected cracks are sealed with a repair mixture. “Serpyanka” or “serpyanka” tape is attached to the cracks.

The walls are tapped with a hammer to check for hidden defects. A dull sound indicates poor clutch quality. old plaster. It is beaten off, the voids are filled by hammering nails or reinforcing mesh. If there is fungus, the wall is treated with a special antifungal agent, then a primer is applied.

The process of applying plaster to a brick, stone or concrete wall with a chisel or an old ax is done by beating it to a depth of 1 cm by making notches. A wooden wall needs to be pre-upholstered, painted and dried. metal mesh. You can use upholstery with shingles in the form of a mesh, which is secured with nails driven halfway and then bent.

Surface primer

Before you start plastering the walls, you need to prime them. This is necessary to increase adhesion, or in other words, the adhesion of the wall surface to the mortar. As you understand, we will use a primer for this.

It can be regular or deep penetration. Deep penetration soil is used in cases where the wall has a well-absorbed base. This could be, for example, a wall made of aerated concrete or sand-lime brick.

Don’t forget to mix the primer thoroughly before starting work, and treat highly absorbent surfaces twice.

Walls whose surfaces are poorly absorbent and smooth are usually primed with a mixture such as Betonkontakt. A direct example of such a wall is a wall made of concrete.

Before starting priming work, the surface of the wall must be cleaned of old plaster, if any, of saw blades, stains, and, in short, of any dirt. The walls must be clean before priming. Plastering walls with your own hands can be done only after the soil on the surface has completely dried.

Wet plastering technology

Technology includes next steps wall plaster:

• Splash - initial layer necessary for adhesion of finish and surface. The solution for application should have a thick consistency. The applied layer will be 9 mm thick for wooden surface and 5 mm for brick walls.
• Primer - after the spray has hardened, a layer of a thicker consistency is applied, the surface is leveled and rubbed.
• Covering - after the soil has dried, it is moistened and applied finishing layer from a solution with sifted sand.

If this technology is violated, after 6-8 months the plaster will begin to peel off and crack.

Basic techniques for preparing plaster mixture

The most popular hand-prepared solutions are:

1. cement: 1/3 cement/sand;
2. limestone: 3/1 sand/lime;
3. cement-lime: 1/5/1 cement/sand/lime;
4. gypsum-lime: 1/3 alabaster/lime paste.

Stages of preparing the mixture for plaster

When doing plastering work with your own hands, you must remember that the prepared solution must be used within 30-60 minutes, otherwise it will disappear. The proportions for preparing the finished mixture are taken from the manufacturer’s packaging. First, water is poured into the container, then up to 1 kg of plaster mixture is added, everything is mixed. Then the entire mass of the mixture is added and mixed with a mixer until the lumps disappear. After 5 minutes, mix again. The consistency is brought to the desired level of density immediately, because during finishing work it is strictly prohibited to add the plaster mixture or water.

Using cement mortar

If you prepare the solution yourself, you must remember that if you put more cement than necessary, the plaster will harden faster and you may not have time to level it. The solution is applied with a spatula or trowel, leveled with a rule or a trowel, and smoothed with a grater. For beginners, a spatula and grater will do just fine. Throwing the plaster mixture onto the wall is done with a staple to create ideal adhesion of the mortar particles to the top surface. Professionals use a “falcon” - a platform tool with a handle at the bottom.

We plaster the wall surface gradually - after finishing small area(1 m) it is leveled with a trowel using circular movements counterclockwise. Excess material is removed into a container, and the voids, on the contrary, are filled with a solution from it. After 7-8 hours you can apply the next layer. If the excess is not removed 12 hours after application, the hardened layer will be difficult to level. Corners are made by fastening edged boards on self-tapping screws.

Using gypsum mortar

So, let's take a quick look at how to plaster walls gypsum plaster with your own hands. Alabaster compositions, or gypsum mixtures, are less durable, but are applied just as easily as cement ones. You need to be careful when diluting and applying such a solution - any dirt particles that get into the container or onto the tool will reduce the hardening time.

Prepare according to the mixture manufacturer's instructions and apply with a spatula. Drying time 2-3 hours. The excess is removed within an hour. Corners are made using reinforced corners. Solutions of this type do not interact well with paint.

Plastering on beacons

Lighthouse finishing is done to match tiles, non-woven lining, and wallpaper. To plaster walls with your own hands, you need to have certain skills and knowledge, otherwise you will not pull out the wall straight. Performance techniques are better learned by observing work experienced craftsman(can be on video). The instructions “how to properly plaster walls with your own hands” will serve as a kind of “cheat sheet” for the first time.

To level the walls using metal profiles, first, at a distance of 20 cm from the end of the wall,.

• Next, using a level, the curvature of the surface is determined.
• Along the rule, plaster tubercles are applied to the walls at intervals of 20–30 cm.
• The desired level is formed by pressing down with a rule.
• The solution fixes the position of the beacons.
• If the area is large, ropes are pulled to determine the location of the beacons.
• When the solution fixing the beacons hardens, the gaps are plastered together.
• The plaster is leveled by following the rules along the beacons.

Now you know how to plaster walls with your own hands and it will not be difficult for you to complete all the listed work yourself. And now a few final secrets:

After a careful assessment of the condition, a decision is made whether it is necessary major renovation and plastering the walls or you can trim the corners and the most noticeable irregularities.

If laid flat ceiling tiles, you can make a plastered ceiling. Before work, it is cleaned of old material, primed and plastered. Otherwise, it will be more profitable to create a suspended or stretch ceiling.

Every renovation begins with preparing the walls for finishing. In order to bring them into a perfectly smooth state, two types of plaster are used - “dry” and “wet”. The first option involves covering the walls with plasterboard and other similar materials. The technology of surface cladding using the “dry” method is described in the article “”.

The “wet” method of finishing walls involves the use of plaster mixtures. Despite the fact that it is quite labor-intensive, the classic method of wall finishing is used very often.

Do I need to plaster the walls?

The main purpose of plaster is to level the walls. But besides this, it protects them from moisture penetration and, accordingly, extends their service life. building materials. The availability of all plaster components and tools for carrying out the work allows you to do it yourself. To do this, it is enough to know the basic principles of plastering walls and the procedure for doing this.

The best way to plaster walls - choice of material

Our market offers big choice mixtures ready to use. They are quite expensive, but have certain advantages.

• Silicone plaster – universal material, the most expensive of these mixtures. It is easy to clean, flexible and durable.

• Acrylic plaster is a ready-made mixture based on synthetic resins. It also has high elasticity and low absorption. Disadvantages - worse vapor permeability compared to mineral mixtures and ultraviolet sensitivity.

• Mineral plaster - used for work both inside and outside the building. It is resistant to sunlight, has strength and high vapor permeability. Comprises mineral fillers, cement and additives. This mixture is perfect for rooms with high humidity and walls made of materials with high vapor permeability - such as cellular concrete. Mineral plaster also includes silicate plaster, the binding material of which is liquid glass.

Despite the merits thin layer plasters, cement-sand, lime and gypsum mixtures are still the most popular. This is due to the availability of the material and its qualities. Such mixtures are sold in finished form or do it yourself.

• The cement-sand mixture is considered the most durable and at the same time cheapest. This plaster is not afraid of moisture and is suitable for leveling any walls, including those with significant defects or poor-quality masonry. The disadvantage is low plasticity, so a plasticizer is added to the finished mixtures. Mortar proportions: 1:3 (cement and sand, respectively).

The cement mortar is used within an hour after preparation.

• Lime plaster has good ductility, but is inferior in strength to the previous option. There are several types of this mixture:
  • cement-lime: 1:1:4 (cement, lime, sand);
  • limestone: 1:3 (lime, sand);
  • gypsum-lime: 1:3 (dry gypsum, lime dough).

The gypsum mixture is easy to use and creates a very smooth surface. It is resistant to cracking and has good vapor permeability. The gypsum-based material is plastic, conveniently applied to the surface and hardens quickly. That is why it is prepared in small portions and used immediately.

We plaster the walls ourselves - tools for the job

• Container for solution.
• Metal profile for the installation of beacons.

• A scraper is a trapezoidal metal spatula.
• Falcon - wooden or metal shield.
• Trowel is a heart-shaped blade.
• Grater and grater.
• Wire brush – for cleaning the surface.
• Master OK.
• Rules.
• Plumb.
• Level.

We plaster the walls with our own hands

Preparing the premises

Preparing the premises includes actions aimed at protecting the environment from damage. All things are taken out of it, and the furniture is moved to the middle and covered with film.

The floor covering should also be protected from contact with the solution. It is covered with film or covered with a layer of sawdust. Chandeliers and lamps are removed and the wires are insulated.

Cleaning and preparing walls

The next step will be preparing the walls themselves:

• If they are covered with wallpaper, they are soaked in water and then removed or cleaned with a scraper.

• Any old coating, be it paint, whitewash or crumbling plaster, must be completely removed. Otherwise, the new layer may move away from the wall.

• To check the strength of old plaster, tap the surface with a hammer. If at the same time a dull sound is heard, the coating fits tightly; if it is loud, then this place is cleaned.
• Small cracks are opened with a knife; for large chips, a grinder is used.

• Then they are filled with mortar and glued with a plaster mesh.

• Preparation various surfaces plastering has its own characteristics. On walls made of concrete, stone or brick, a chisel or ax is used to make a beating, the depth of which is approximately 10 mm. Thanks to this, the plaster will adhere more securely to the surface.

• How to properly plaster wooden walls? Such a surface requires special preparation. In order for the plaster to adhere tightly, a mesh of shingles is stuffed onto the surface. In this case, the nails are driven halfway, and the rest of them are bent. Instead of shingles, it is possible to use metal mesh.

Primer of walls

After the procedures are completed, the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt and primed. Some craftsmen skip this stage, considering it unimportant, and use water, especially when working with cement-sand mixtures. But the primer, penetrating into the thickness of the concrete, increases the adhesion of the surface and protects it from dampness. It stabilizes the porosity of the base and allows the plaster to be applied evenly.

Depending on the surface material, Concrete Contact, Grundirmittel or Super Contact Ground are used. Used for wood antiseptic impregnation. The primer is applied with a brush or roller in one or two layers, depending on the degree of absorption of the wall.

How to plaster the walls of a house - setting up beacons

• Using a level, the verticality of the surface is checked.
• Screws are screwed in at the bottom and top of the wall or dowels are driven in.

• A fishing line is tied to the screws and aligned vertically.

• A horizontal line is stretched in the same way; 4 lines will be enough for a wall 3 m high.
• Slides of solution are formed vertically under the fishing line.
• The profile is pressed into the mixture until it comes into light contact with the fishing line.

• Horizontal beacons are set in the same way.
• The resulting mesh is checked with a level to ensure it is in the same plane.

Preparation of the solution

At self-training the solution takes into account the layer for which it is intended:

• 1st layer - spray. For this, the solution should have a creamy consistency. The maximum layer thickness is 5 mm for a concrete or brick base and 9 mm for wooden walls.
• 2nd layer (up to 10 mm) – primer. A dough-like solution is prepared.
• 3rd layer – covering. A solution with fine-grained sand, creamy consistency.

When using the ready-made mixture, you should carefully study the instructions printed on the packaging and act in full accordance with them.

How to plaster walls - apply the solution

1. A trowel is used to apply the first layer of plaster. A small amount of solution is applied to it and it is sprayed onto the wall. The swing of the hand should be sharp, but not too sweeping and strong, otherwise the prepared mixture will fall not only on the wall, but also on everything that surrounds it.

How to plaster walls, video:

1. The primer is applied over the spray using a grater or wide spatula. Depending on its thickness, the work is carried out in one or several “passes”. Last layer equals the rule for beacons.

1. A layer of covering is applied on top of the wet soil.

How to learn to plaster walls - final work

• Removing beacons and filling grooves with a solution.

• Leveling - using a spatula, carefully smooth out all the depressions and bumps in the wet mortar.
• Grouting - performed in a circular motion in a spiral. The plane of the grater is pressed tightly against the surface.

• Clean grout. Performed with a sponge or felt grater.

How to plaster walls correctly, video:

• The porous base is primed twice.
• Gypsum plaster is finally smoothed no later than 4 hours after application.
• Metal beacons must be removed after applying the last layer.
• If the surface is being prepared for finishing ceramic tiles, then one layer of plaster is enough and it is not smoothed over.
• The walls are painted two weeks after completion of work when using gypsum mortar and after 30 days when using cement-lime plaster.

Well-plastered walls always look very aesthetically pleasing and neat, but to achieve such results you need to do quite labor-intensive work.

Plastering walls with your own hands can be done if a novice master thoroughly studies how this process is carried out, understands what is needed to carry it out, and understands the basics of the technology of such work.

However, in order to perform high-quality plastering of walls, not only theoretical knowledge is important, but also at least a little practice in this work. Therefore, if you have no experience in plastering “manipulations”, you need to first try your hand at small area walls. By doing this kind of training, you can at least get a little better at sketching and leveling it out.

This experience will be useful not only to owners of private houses, but also to owners of apartments in high-rise buildings, since, unfortunately, even in panel houses walls often need quite serious leveling.

Material for applying plaster

The plaster mixture for finishing walls is selected depending on what the walls of the building are made of. In addition, the conditions where there will be work is being carried out- indoors or outside a building.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Brick walls

• Brick walls are usually plastered with cement-based mixtures, sometimes with a small addition of lime to give additional plasticity. Lime is also added if work is carried out indoors with high humidity or outside the building.

• On brick walls a layer of plaster is applied, which should not exceed 30 mm. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that if the thickness of the coating is more than 20 mm, then a chain-link mesh must be attached to the wall under the plaster to reinforce and hold the mixture on the surface.
• based on cement, you need to take ingredients based on the proportions of 1 part cement and 3 ÷ 4 parts sifted clean sand. Specified starting materials mixed with water to a thick consistency, but it is also taken into account that the mixture must be plastic.
• If a cement-lime mixture is being made, then you will need 1 part cement, 1 ÷ 2 lime paste and 5 ÷ 7 parts sand. First, sand is mixed with cement, then lime diluted to the consistency of milk is added to the dry mixture, and everything is mixed together until smooth. If the composition is too thick, it is allowed (although not encouraged) to add large quantity water.
• If fixed to the walls facing brick, then it will be more difficult to plaster it due to the fact that it has a smooth surface. It is likely that the mixture will roll off the wall or even fall off in pieces - sometimes even reinforcing mesh does not help in such a situation. Therefore, such a surface requires special professional primers and properly selected reinforcing mesh. It is better to entrust this work to qualified specialists who know which materials will be optimal for a particular surface and are fluent in the technology of applying them to “complex” surfaces.

Concrete wall

• If concrete surface smooth, then it must be prepared using a primer with the addition of quartz inclusions, which will give the wall the roughness required to reliably hold the plaster. IN cement mortar for the wall is added gypsum powder, which significantly enhances the adhesion of the mixture to the wall.

• In addition, a lime-gypsum solution is often used for such a surface, where proportions of 3 ÷ 4 parts lime and 1 part gypsum are applicable. The process of preparing such a mixture takes place in the following order: gypsum is quickly mixed with water - the mass should not be too thick, lime mortar is poured into it, and then everything is kneaded until smooth.
• If the concrete wall has roughness, then it will not require complex training, a special approach or special compositions, since traditional cement or gypsum plaster mortars are suitable for it. However, before applying the plaster to the wall, it is recommended to impregnate it with the deep penetration primer “Betonokontakt”.

Foam concrete walls

When applying plaster to foam concrete, reinforcing mesh is required

• Before plastering, walls made of foam concrete blocks must be treated with a deep penetration impregnation primer. If necessary, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh – “serpyanka” – is fixed to the wall.
• For such walls, both gypsum and cement mortars are used.

When choosing compositions for leveling walls, you need to approach this issue with all responsibility. This is necessary for comfortable plastering work, for good adhesion of the solutions to the wall and for the quality of the task performed - the longest service life of plastered walls.

It should be noted that construction stores currently offer a very large number of ready-made mixtures on different bases and intended for different surfaces. This is very convenient - when preparing the compositions, you will not need to rack your brains with determining and dosing the proportions of its ingredients, since it will be enough to simply dilute the mixture with water to the consistency indicated on the package.

When choosing or self-production plaster composition, you can use the following tables:

Table 1. Main characteristics of ready-made plaster mixtures

Index	Standards for brands							Test methods
	Coupling solution LS 10/90	Leveling solution LS 35/95	Coupling solution LS 50/50	Coupling solution LS 65/35	Finishing mortar Fine Coat LS 50/50	Termonit putty	Putty for blocks
Recommended layer thickness in mm	3÷5	5÷15	5÷15	5÷15	3÷10	2÷10	3÷10	TU clause 1.2
Recommended water consumption l/25kg	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	4÷5	5.5÷6	6÷7	TU clause 1.2
Estimated compressive strength in MPa not less than	16	8	4	2	4	6	20	GOST 5802-86
Estimated bending strength in MPa not less than	2	2	1	1	1	3	3	GOST 5802-86
Adhesion to base in MPa not less	0.5	0.4	0.3	0.3	0.3	1	0.5	GOST 5802-86
Average density of solution kg/m 3	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	GOST 8735-88
RN	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	TU clause 1.2

Wall surface characteristics	Composition of the solution
	Limestone, (with sand, gypsum, cement)	Complex (cement, sand, gypsum, lime)	Cement-sand	Lime-gypsum
In rooms with normal humidity
	1:4; 3:1; 2:1	1:1:6	1:0,3:4*	-
Wooden	-	-	-	1:1÷1.5÷2÷2.5
For rooms with high humidity and for outdoor use
Brick, concrete, stone	-	1:1:4	1:3	-
Wooden		1:1:6	1:4	-
* Note - 0.3 lime is added to the cement mortar for plasticity.
Note: the mobility of the solution should be 60 ÷ 80 mm for mechanized application, 70 ÷ 80 mm for manual application

Preparatory work

Before starting plastering work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures to clean the walls of old finishing materials. This is done so that the plaster fits well and stays on the surface of the wall - everything must be removed from it, down to the base. Walls made of different materials, require an individual approach to their cleaning.

If, after cleaning the walls, cracks are found on them, they must be repaired, otherwise the plaster placed on top of them may crack in the same place.

Sealing cracks

Detected cracks must be repaired, and this process is carried out different ways, depending on the width and prevalence existing defects.

• If the width of the crack is small, but it is obvious that it goes deep into the wall, the first thing to do is to widen it and free access to the narrow part in the thickness of the material.

Expansion of cracks on the wall surface...
... followed by their sealing

After the penetrating composition has dried, the crack is sealed with cement or gypsum-based putty using a spatula, level with the wall surface.

• If the crack is very narrow and not deep, then you can seal it with sealant or silicone. They fill the crack with the help of a thin nozzle-spout attached to the bottle with the composition, which is directed deep into the crack.

• To seal very wide cracks, it is often used polyurethane foam, which can be used to fill gaps without even waiting completely dry primers.

After complete polymerization of the foam, its excess, protruding beyond the level of the wall surface, is cut off, and then you can proceed to the next processes according to

Preparing a brick wall

• If a thin layer of old plaster has already been applied to brick walls, it needs to be wetted with water using a sponge, moistening several times - this will make it easier to come off the surface.

• Then, using a spatula having the thickness of a metal work surface 1.5 ÷ 2 mm, and a hammer, the plaster layer must be carefully removed.

To do this, one of the sections of the wall is first tapped with a hammer. Then, through the cracks that have appeared, the plaster that has peeled off from the impacts is picked up with a spatula. If necessary, tap its handle with a hammer, separating layers of plaster from the wall.

• You need to walk along the cleared wall iron brush or a grinder with an appropriate attachment.
• Next, the seams between the bricks need to be deepened a little - by 5 ÷ 7 mm, so that the plaster goes into them and from this got the best adhesion to the wall.
• After this, the wall is cleaned with a soft brush and then a damp sponge.
• The final ones preparatory stage is to cover the wall with a deep penetration primer in two layers. The second layer is applied after the first has completely dried.

How to prepare a concrete wall

It is easier to clean a smooth concrete wall from plaster or whitewash than a brick one, since the plaster on it usually doesn’t stick as well.

• The whitewash can be thoroughly wetted with a sponge and cleaned off with an iron brush, and then the surface of the wall can be rinsed well.
• If you don’t want to spread dampness, you can do it differently: first cover the whitewash with a thick layer of paste and let it dry, and then clean off the whitewash or a thin layer of plaster with a hard spatula.

• It is recommended to make shallow cuts on the cleaned surface. It should be noted that this process is not easy, so you will have to make a lot of effort. But you shouldn’t ignore it.
• You can replace the application of notches with more simple method- by priming the wall with the addition of fine quartz sand. But sometimes this method may not work, so it is best to conduct the experiment on a small section of the wall, applying soil to it and waiting for it to dry completely. Next, you need to run your hand along the wall, checking its roughness. If it is noticeable, it means that the plaster will stick to it well. But the sand should not fall off the wall.

Preparing a wooden wall

• It is quite easy to clean off old plaster from a wooden surface. They tap the wall with a hammer, and the plaster itself falls off to the floor, so it is recommended to lay it under the wall in advance plastic film. Then, after removing the plaster, the film along with the chipped construction debris can be immediately removed from the room, without stretching the cleaning for a long time and without spreading dirt for the whole house.
• In order for the plaster to adhere well to a wooden surface, thin slats are stuffed onto it - the so-called shingles. They are nailed onto the wall diagonally. The shingles will not only hold well plaster mortar, but will also serve as beacons when leveling it on the surface.

Shingles on a wooden wall are an excellent “reinforcement” for plaster

• If, after cleaning the wall of old plaster, it is discovered that old shingles are attached to the surface, it must be removed, since long-term operation there could be insects in it, or it could rot and not hold securely on wall. In addition, an old tree can very often emit bad smell, which can easily seep into the room through a layer of new plaster.
• Do not forget that before filling the sheathing, the wall must be coated with antiseptic compounds to protect the wood from mold or the appearance of colonies of harmful insects.
• If shingles are chosen for the sheathing, then after its installation is completed, the wall must once again be coated with a wood preservative.
• Sometimes, instead of shingles, they use metal mesh. It is fixed not to the wooden wall itself, but to the slats, which are spacers between the mesh and the wall. Their thickness should be at least 3 mm.
• You can begin further work on leveling the walls with plaster only after the wall has dried thoroughly.

Displaying beacons

To achieve ideal evenness of the wall using plastering, it is necessary to establish guidelines, so-called beacons, which are set according to the building level.

Typically, metal guides are made, which are fixed to the wall using gypsum mortar - it quickly sets and holds the metal profile in the position inwhich it was installed level.

• The beacons are installed at a distance of about one and a half meters from each other, in such a way that when leveling the solution, it usually follows two adjacent beacon profiles.

The ideal verticality of the profiles is controlled using a plumb line.

• If you only have a short level in your tool kit, then you can use a long block that is placed against the guide before the plaster solution has completely dried. A level is placed in the middle and one or the other side of the guide is leveled along it, carefully pressing it with a block.

After preparing the walls for applying plaster, you can proceed to preparing the solution.

Preparation of mortar for plaster

The process itself plastering Most often it is carried out in three stages, applying the solution in three layers.

• The first layer is throwing a fairly thick plaster solution onto the wall.

The first layer is a sketch, simply laying on a plastic plaster composition

The process can be carried out using a trowel or simply by hand, but in this case you must wear thick rubber gloves.

- For brick and concrete walls the solution is poured with a thickness just above the installed beacons - this is approximately 5 mm.

- On wooden walls with lathing, the thickness should be about 8 ÷ 9 mm.

• The second layer is called soil. A solution with a dough-like consistency is prepared for it. It is applied using a trowel or wide spatula, and its thickness should be about 7 ÷ 8 mm.
• The third, finishing layer is called the covering. It should be made of fine-grained sand without large inclusions. The solution for the finishing layer must have creamy consistency.

You can purchase ready-made mixtures for each layer of plaster, which contain all the components that contribute to good adhesion and strength of the hardened mass.

The solution should “diverge” well along the plane of the wall, but not flow down

If the solution is made independently, then the following recipes are most often used for their preparation:

• Cement-lime composition: 1 Part lime, 1 Part cement and 5 parts sand.
• Cement mortar: 3 parts sand and 1 part cement.
• Lime-based solution: 1 part lime and 3 parts sand.
• Gypsum-lime composition: 3 parts lime mixed until doughy and 1 part dry gypsum powder.

There are nuances that must be taken into account before mixing the solution:

• Plaster on cement based it must be used within an hour after mixing it, otherwise it will lose its plasticity and will not adhere well to the wall surface. Therefore, you need to mix only such an amount of solution that can be guaranteed to be applied during this period of time.

• Gypsum-based solutions set and harden extremely quickly, so they are mixed immediately before application to the wall and in small quantities. Such solutions also need to be leveled immediately, since thinner layer application, the faster it will dry.
• When using ready-made mixtures, before pouring them with water, be sure to study the instructions located on the packaging, since these materials have different setting and drying times.

Mixing solutions occurs as follows:

• First, water is poured into the container where the solution will be mixed. Then 6 ÷ 8 trowels of dry mixture are poured into it and mixed well using an electric drill with a special mixer attachment.
• Then the dry mixture is gradually added to the container and mixed to the desired consistency. The solution must be homogeneous and plastic.
• Next, the resulting solution is left for a couple of minutes and then kneaded one more time. If necessary, add a little water or dry plaster mixture, depending on the resulting and required thickness.

Once again I would like to remind you that you need to prepare as much mixture as the master can use in 25 ÷ 30 minutes - If the mixture is made on a gypsum basis, and in 40 ÷ 60 minutes - If on cement.

After the solution is mixed, you must immediately proceed to the first stage of applying plaster to the wall.

Find out the features of the process from our new article.

Plaster application technique

As mentioned above, most often the work is carried out in three stages. They should be considered in more detail in order to know how to act correctly.

• The first stage, “outlining” or “spraying”, is carried out using a trowel.

They begin to pour the mortar from the bottom of the wall, gradually working upwards. The thrown piles of plaster rise above the guides by 8 ÷ 10 mm.

The solution, one might say, is splashed onto the wall with a small spread, with an effort to adhere well to the wall.

Having thrown the plaster at a height of 1000 ÷ 1200 mm from the floor, it is leveled using the rule. It is installed on the guides and slowly lifted up, pressing on the mortar and distributing the plaster between the guides with smooth movements to the left and to the right.

• The next stage is applying a primer layer. This stage is carried out after the mortar of the first layer, poured and leveled, has set.

Due to the plasticity of the composition, it can be applied using a wide spatula.

The solution is taken from the container using a medium-width spatula and transferred to a wide spatula, and then applied to the wall and distributed over it in an even layer. When applying the mixture, it is necessary to level all the stripes remaining from running the spatula across the surface.

The same layer should hide the visible guide strips.

• The third, finishing layer is designed to make the surface perfectly smooth. It should be thin, no more than 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. It is applied to the still wet second layer, and if it has already dried, it can be moistened with a damp roller.

The finishing layer must be made as smooth as possible, smoothing all stripes and leveling not captured by a spatula places In order not to miss a single flaw on the surface, the wall is illuminated tangentially with a light bulb with the overhead lighting turned off.

• After the finishing layer has dried, proceed to grouting the surface using a plastic or wooden trowel. This process is carried out in a circular motion, counterclockwise. In this case, the grater is pressed tightly against the plastered surface.

• Next, felt material or felt is attached to the same grater, and the process of final grinding of the surface begins.

Before you decide to buy a large amount of materials for plastering walls, you should probably start by hardware store purchase several kilograms of ready-made plaster mixture and carry out the entire process on a small section of the wall or on a piece of plywood. If everything goes well, you can move on to large-scale work on the walls of the room.