Anyone who is renovating old houses would do well to learn how to level a wooden floor to match linoleum. For today's housing, linoleum is the most popular floor covering. Its sanitary properties have long been known. The cost of this raw material is affordable for the most modest budget. Its price depends on quality characteristics specific model. Linoleum flooring requires utmost attention, because tiny holes and cracks gradually begin to appear on such a soft and elastic floor covering. In order for wooden floors to look solid and respectable, the base underneath should be perfectly leveled.

Available materials and technologies

Most concrete floors are leveled using one suitable technology. To do this, use a leveling compound, which is known as a self-leveling screed. It is invariably in high demand due to the fact that it is very easy to work with. There is no need to mix the mixture for a long time and then level the finished cement mortar. As a result, the screed is poured so quickly that leveling the floor can be done in one hour (or so).

Such amazing characteristics are due to the fact that in this solution cement is mixed with fine quartz sand, as well as many modifiers that make ready solution extremely flexible and durable. Just a few millimeters of this layer provide very high strength characteristics. This versatility makes it possible not to pay particular attention to the clear horizontality of the floor, since here small deviations are insignificant.

The technology that allows you to level a concrete floor under linoleum using leveling compound is as follows:

1. At the first stage old surface cleaned (debris and dust are thoroughly removed). Then the plane is thoroughly opened using a deep penetration primer.
2. Next, the base should be partially repaired. In this case, an ordinary cement-sand mortar is suitable. Tile adhesive will also work. All cracks and potholes are carefully sealed. Such restoration of the surface is necessary so that the expensive leveling mass is spent as economically as possible. After treating the base in this way, it begins to absorb moisture in much smaller quantities.
3. Then you should prepare a solution. The capacity of a large bucket is filled one third with water. A bag of leveling mass is also poured there. After this, you need to thoroughly stir the mixture. Here you can’t do without a construction mixer/perforator with a special chuck. It is very important to achieve the required degree of thickness (the thickness of the layer is directly proportional to the latter). As practice shows, to apply a three-millimeter layer you need to create a mixture whose consistency is similar to sour cream.
4. Simply pour the prepared mixture onto the floor and carefully spread with a wide spatula. A plastic roller with spikes will come in handy. With its help, the solution is easily leveled into an ideal horizontal plane.
5. The first layer is immediately covered with a new portion of the solution. Here, of particular importance is how strongly the leveled base is able to absorb moisture. For a good connection of both layers, the previous layer should not be dry. Therefore, a special quality two-layer primer must be used. Much depends on the pace of the construction work. Practice shows that two workers can handle them well, one of whom pours the first screed, while the second immediately begins preparing a new mixture.
6. Correctly and competently filled layers dry surprisingly quickly. Therefore, the very next morning you can safely move on the floor. Linoleum is applied on top only after the screeds have thoroughly dried (at this point color shade gender must change).

Along with this, there are versions that use other technologies. Here, linoleum sheets are fixed on a concrete base covered with sheets of plywood or OSB boards.

How is a wooden floor leveled?

Unlike concrete, fixing a wood floor is much easier. There is no dirt or water during the installation process. No labor-intensive procedures will be needed. Traditionally, a wooden base is covered with sheet materials ─ thin fiberboard or OSB, plywood. The following can be said about them:

1. Fiberboard is an inexpensive raw material with a thickness of two millimeters. It is rarely used when preparing foundations. Experience shows that fiberboard fits well only on perfectly flat surfaces, where the only defects are the gaps between the floorboards.
2. OSB - boards can have different thicknesses (from 6 to 12 mm). Due to their rather specific structure, they are able to smoothly bend under fasteners. As thickness increases, the degree of flexibility decreases. The scope of their application is extremely wide.
3. Plywood is considered the most durable and inexpensive sheet material. It has a practically unbending layered structure. Usually the floor is leveled with plywood sheets, the thickness of which is not less than 10 mm. According to the masters, this better alignment wooden floor under linoleum.

The final choice of material depends entirely on the wishes of the owner. You just need to remember that there is no need to save money here. Upper finishing layer flooring(if desired) can be easily changed, while the base is made immediately and for a long time.

Instead of a conclusion

To summarize, we can say the following: the preparation of the floor surface for linoleum must be carried out very carefully; the optimal solution would be to use a universal option, on the surface of which a variety of floor coverings can be laid. In this case, parquet is easily replaced with laminate. It is plywood that can perfectly level the horizontal plane. It most fully satisfies all the requirements associated with the procedure for laying floor coverings.

More articles on this topic:

Linoleum is a decorative floor covering, sold in rolls, laid in rooms for various purposes: a private house, apartment, office, etc. Linoleum is laid on concrete and wooden base. But if it is uneven, then the coating will exactly repeat all the differences, and subsequently uneven wear will occur.

In this article you will learn how to level linoleum floors.

You can level the floor under linoleum different ways, it all depends on the base material. Which one to choose depends on operating conditions and individual preferences.

We list 3 types of alignment:

• The self-leveling floor is made from a flowing leveling mixture. It is poured onto the surface and, due to its liquid consistency, the mixture spreads evenly over the floor area. At the same time, all differences, cracks, depressions and bumps are compensated. When pouring, no manual leveling of the surface is required - the mixture itself takes the desired position.
• Semi-dry screed is made from a thick leveling mixture; the surface is given an even shape manually according to the set level. After leveling the mixture, grouting follows - the final stage of processing the starting layer. Before laying linoleum, the surface of the screed is finished with a finishing mixture.
• Dry screed is made from sheet materials (gypsum fiber sheets) installed on a mound of expanded clay, leveled to the same level without the use of mixtures.

Let's take a closer look at the advantages of each method of leveling a concrete floor:

1. All three methods are used for any differences in floor height.
2. Operating conditions (temperature changes, humidity, mechanical loads). Wet and semi-dry screed is reinforced concrete structures, leaders in strength among ties. They withstand temperature changes and are not susceptible to destruction from humidity. Used in dry screed wood materials or gypsum fiber, which is inferior in strength to concrete analogues and is not resistant to moisture.
3. The installation time for wet and semi-dry screeds reaches 1 week and drying of the mixture continues for another 4 weeks. At this time, work stops. The dry screed is installed in 1-2 days, after which you can immediately begin further finishing.
4. The price of the screed depends on the material chosen, but often a dry screed is more expensive.

Dry screed technology

Materials for screed:

• bulk material - expanded clay;
• waterproofing material — polyethylene film;
• guiding beacon - a profile for plasterboard or a wooden block;
• sheet material— gypsum fiber (GVL);
• connection of sheet joints - folded edge.

If you have decided on the screed materials, then we get to work. The arrangement of the floor is carried out in stages:

• Preparing the floor surface. It is necessary to remove the old screed, remove debris and dust, cover up deep cracks, then insert zero level using hydraulic or laser level.
• The waterproofing material is laid: the film is laid without folds with a 200 mm overlap on the wall, the seams are taped, and a 300 mm tape of infused film is glued to the wall around the perimeter of the room.
• Expanded clay is poured in and the surface is leveled. It is necessary to install the beacons and level them, securing them to quick-drying alabaster (the distance between the beacons is determined by the width of the rule). Then fill in expanded clay according to the set level, taking into account the thickness of the gypsum plasterboard and
  level the expanded clay mound using the following rules.

• GVL sheets are laid: the arrangement of sheets starts from front door; the joints of the sheets are connected using glue applied to the edge of the sheet; Self-tapping screws are screwed in along the connection line in increments of 50 mm.
• The final stage: the waterproofing material protruding above the floor is cut off; The joints of the sheets and the heads of the screws are filled with putty.
• After the putty dries, linoleum spreads.

If other sheet material is used instead of GVL, then wooden beacons serve as supports for the sheets. In this case, the pitch between the beacons is determined by the size of the sheet material.

Leveling with a semi-dry screed

Semi-dry and wet screed is made from a cement-sand mixture. The layer thickness is taken to be at least 30 mm, otherwise the strength characteristics are lost. If the layer thickness is more than 30 mm, then the screed is strengthened using reinforcing mesh or reinforcement.

Work algorithm:

1. Surface preparation is the same as for dry screed.
2. The cleaned surface of the ceiling is primed with a waterproof agent and the hardening time is waited.
3. Beacons are installed at the intended level. Their correct installation affects the evenness of the future screed. The beacons are fixed to the same mixture that is used for the screed. The distance between the beacons is determined by the width of the rule, but 300 mm must be deviated from the wall.
4. Buy ready-made concrete or mix it yourself.
5. The mixture is laid between the beacons and leveled with a rule focusing on the beacons. This results in a smooth surface.
6. During the first week after laying the screed, the surface is watered and covered with film. This reduces the risk of cracking.
7. You can continue work 30 days after installation. The surface of the screed is finished with a finishing mixture, and after hardening, linoleum is laid.

Wet screed leveling technology (self-leveling floor)

Wet screed is a cement or gypsum mortar with a liquid consistency. This allows the mixture to independently take an even shape, spreading evenly over the floor area and compensating for all unevenness.

How to level a concrete floor under linoleum wet screed— the sequence of actions is similar to the installation of a semi-dry screed:

1. Floor preparation and marking.
2. Surface primer.
3. Purchase the mixture and knead according to the manufacturer's instructions.
4. Pouring the mixture.

To release air from the lower layers of the mixture, after pouring you need to treat the surface with a needle roller.

Drying time depends on the brand of the mixture; this value is indicated on the packaging. After drying, the finishing mixture is applied and linoleum is laid.

Laying linoleum

After completing the preparation of the base, measurements are taken and the linoleum is purchased. When choosing, surface loads are taken into account. Based on strength, linoleum is divided into: household, semi-commercial and commercial.

IN winter time After purchasing linoleum, you cannot unroll the roll. The material needs to adapt to the climatic conditions of the room for two days in a folded state, and then it is cut to size, spread on the floor and “matured” until the bends are completely smoothed out.

Algorithm for laying linoleum:

1. The linoleum is cut so that the pattern is preserved at the joints.
2. A primer is applied to the base, and after drying, glue is applied.
3. Linoleum is spread over the glue and smoothed to release air.
4. The joints of linoleum sheets are soldered with a special soldering iron or additionally glued by cold welding.

There is no additional care for linoleum. The only thing you need to consider is to put some pads under the furniture legs and be careful when moving heavy objects around the room.

Video - how to level the floor under linoleum:

Linoleum is a modern flooring that is popular due to its low cost, variety of colors and simple installation.

This material can be laid without special construction experience, and such a foundation will last for many years.

The base for installing linoleum must be perfectly smooth.

The service life of the floor on which linoleum is laid is up to twenty-five years.

The laying speed of this material is high, plus you can add others positive traits, which clearly manifest themselves during operation.

But linoleum should only be laid on a perfectly flat base, because the material will repeat the slightest unevenness of the surface on which it is mounted.

Important! The choice of a specific leveling method depends on the original floor surface on which the work is being carried out.

For concrete floor

Concrete must be cleaned of any contaminants and completely freed from the previous coating that was on the floor.

If the screed is not poured, then work must be done to repair the concrete itself.

If there are minor differences, there are several ways to properly level them out:

1. You can fill the base with a level. This is a good screed. It dries within one to two weeks. When using a concrete screed, you will have to wait three weeks for drying. It is impossible to lay linoleum on a screed that is not completely dry, because in such a situation it will not allow moisture to pass through and will soon deteriorate quickly. The most budget-friendly would be a sand-cement screed. After it has dried, the surface must be additionally treated with a primer.
2. Chipboards or plywood on joists will help level the floor. This leveling method is suitable for very small differences. This technology is called “dry screed” and its important advantage is to reduce the leveling time.

Important! If the house is a panel house, then screeding under the linoleum will have to be done.

Floor slabs have a smooth surface on only one side, with which the slab is laid down.

This means that the floor always gets the uneven side of the slab.

For wooden base

If there are absolutely minor irregularities, then they can be corrected manually or using a sanding machine.

Since in this way the floor is treated under a varnish coating, the leveling quality will be ideal.

When there are a lot of uneven knots and holes on the base, you will have to use putty mixtures to seal them.

After completely dry The mixture must be additionally leveled in the pouring area using sandpaper.

If there are a lot of unevenness, then the best way to level it is to use sheets of impregnated moisture-resistant plywood.

Sheets should be between 10-14 mm thick.

They are attached to the main wooden floor using screws.

The remaining cracks at the joints will have to be additionally puttied.

In this video you will learn how to treat the floor for later laying linoleum on it.

Floor design features

If the floor is a floor panel, as is often the case in new buildings, then the choice of methods for leveling the surfaces is quite large.

When the surface has already been installed, there is nothing left to do but level it.

The choice of leveling method, as we found out above, depends on the base material.

The most common methods are floor panels:

1. Cementing with concrete mortar. The cement mortar is distributed over a clean, cleaned surface. A waterproofing film is applied to the base to protect it from moisture. It is recommended to reinforce the cement screed using plaster mesh.
2. Installation of a wooden floor. Can be put on reinforced concrete slabs wooden beams (joists). They must be installed level, and a wooden floor must be laid on top. It's not only good way leveling the base, but also an excellent way to insulate it.
3. OSB floor construction. With this installation method, there will be no need to make a rough foundation. Because leveling will happen in one layer. Thickness OSB sheet should be at least 22 mm, it is better to make two floorings in layers of 12 mm.
4. Application of gypsum fiber boards. The slabs should be laid on compacted expanded clay sand. Sand will be an additional insulation, as well as good insulation from noise. Linoleum can be laid directly on the slabs.

1. The specific leveling method must be selected based on the actual condition of the floor. You should also take into account the initial level differences and base material.
2. It is important to pay attention to the thickness of the linoleum. The smaller it is, the better the leveling of the floor for installation of the material must be done. Thin linoleum will immediately show all the imperfections of the floor.
3. Thick linoleum can level the joints of wooden floors, parquet or concrete. This must be taken into account when choosing the final material.

Before you begin leveling the floor under linoleum, you need to evaluate the existing coating and the condition of the surface.

According to regulations and requirements, leveling the floor under linoleum is carried out as a recommendation. However, the quality of operation of the floor covering will depend on the performance of this work.

Otherwise, even a few millimeters of height difference can lead to premature damage to the outer layer, which in turn will entail unplanned work and expenses for laying a new coating.

Linoleum is available in various modifications with different performance indicators. Despite this, any type of this coating is particularly demanding on the floor level.

Height changes, depressions, loose panels - all this will ultimately lead to damage to the linoleum.

For small differences, up to 1-2 mm per square meter, it is most advisable to use soundproofing and noise-insulating substrates based on polyurethane foam or natural cork. This technology smoothing out differences is widely used for both wooden and concrete foundations.

The most popular ways to eliminate unevenness and height differences for wooden bases

In case of significant deviations, for wooden floors, the following alignment methods can be distinguished:

• Using putty based on adhesive mass;
• Laying plywood or fiberboard;
• Pouring self-leveling mixtures;
• Surface scraping.

Installing plywood on support beams and pouring self-leveling solutions are the fastest and most simple ways alignment. The use of putty is a more labor-intensive, but fairly affordable technology that allows leveling a fairly large base area.

Leveling a concrete floor under linoleum is carried out according to standard technologies and can be done in the following ways:

• Pouring concrete solution;
• Use of self-leveling floors;
• Laying sheets of plywood or fiberboard.

Description of technology for concrete foundations

A-B – line on the wall, C-D – level of differences on the slab, D – the highest point on the surface of the slab

The process of leveling a concrete base is technologically much simpler, but requires much more time. This is mainly due to the time required to dry the concrete mortar used for the screed.

When using self-leveling mixtures, leveling is completed in 1-2 days, including the stage of preparing the surface for pouring.

As preparatory work For both methods, old coatings and structures are dismantled and the surface is cleaned concrete slab from dirt and stuck cement. To do this, you can use available tools - a hammer, chisel, hacksaw, drill and hammer drill.

After cleaning the room, the level of the future floor is calculated and marked. To do this, use a tape measure, a pencil, building level and a nylon cord.

A straight line is drawn along the perimeter of the room on the wall. From the line down to the surface of the slab, a distance is measured. Find the shortest distance that will be the highest point on the surface of the slab. From the found point, step back 3-6 cm, measure and draw a line on the wall.

This will be the height of the future floor, which you should focus on when setting guides for leveling the floor. For cement screed, minimum thickness should not be less than 3 cm.

The main stages of restoration of an old base for laying linoleum

The sequence of leveling work using cement-sand mortar, will include the following steps:

1. A damper tape is glued along the lower edge of the wall, to a height slightly greater than the height of the future floor. This material will be responsible for the temperature change of the screed and will prevent it from bursting or cracking when drying;
2. According to the calculations, the guides are installed. To do this, you can use a profile for plasterboard sheets or a wooden beam soaked in water. The distance between the guides should be less than the size of the tool that will be used to distribute and level the solution;
3. Start preparing the cement-sand mixture. To do this, you can use dry mixtures from the manufacturer labeled M-200 or mix the solution yourself. When mixing by hand, it is recommended to adhere to following proportions– 3 parts cement to 1 part sand and 0.5 parts water;
4. Pouring the prepared solution into the space between the exposed beacons. It is better to supply the mixture from the far corner of the room, smoothly moving towards the exit. After pouring, distribute and level the solution over the floor surface;
5. Having finished pouring and leveling the floor over the entire area of ​​the room, the screed is covered with plastic film and left for a day, after which the beacons are dismantled and the resulting seams are grouted.

When using self-leveling mixtures to level the floor, at the stage of preparing the base, it is primed in one or two overlapping layers. In case of strong differences in height, after the primer has dried, install the appropriate beacons using benchmarks.

The main stages of pouring a self-leveling mixture and self-leveling floor

With differences of up to 2-3 mm, the mixture can be poured without installing guide structures. As beacons, into the surface of the slab, at a distance corresponding to the level floor, self-tapping screws are screwed in.

Next, prepare the mixture according to the instructions on the packaging and glue the damper tape. The self-leveling mixture is poured in small portions. A needle roller is used for distribution.

After pouring, distributing and leveling one portion, the process is repeated. It is advisable that these works be carried out without delay, since the mixture sets quickly enough.

Description of work technology for wooden floors

The main stages of attaching plywood to the base surface

The technology for leveling a wooden base for laying linoleum or other roll coverings greatly depends on technical condition floor designs.

For height differences of up to 2-3 mm, mechanical scraping of the surface is performed. For this, special machines and tools are used. Without special equipment and skills, this method is difficult to implement and is not suitable for everyone.

For strong plank bases, with a slight distortion or blockage, you can use plywood or fiber board sheets, which will be fixed to the old coating.

In case of strong unevenness, evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​the room, it is most preferable to use leveling with the arrangement of a supporting structure in the form wooden logs and filling voids with putty.

For heavily skewed and sagging wooden floors, you will have to open the entire structure, replace rotten and damaged areas, align the support logs and lay a rough foundation made of new materials.

As an example, we give a description of two methods. The first method is simpler and does not require special skills. The second, more complex, but quite feasible if you know the technology.

A mixture of sawdust and PVA of thick consistency

The work of leveling the floor under linoleum with your own hands using adhesive putty will consist of the following:

1. The surface of the board and wooden base is checked for damage, rotten areas and panels. If found, the damaged area is cut out and replaced with a new board. To do this, you can use a hacksaw or jigsaw, a hammer, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver;
2. On the base of the floor, every 30-40 cm, longitudinal slats of small thickness, thin timber, etc. are laid and fixed. Before fastening, check the level of the rail. In case of blockages and distortions, roll materials are placed under the rail;
3. Mix a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue. For mixing, use a plastic or iron container. In terms of consistency, the mixture should resemble thick putty;
4. The voids between the longitudinal slats are filled with prepared putty. In one approach, the layer thickness should not exceed 15-20 mm. The second and subsequent layers are applied only after the previous one has completely dried;
5. After grouting the floor over the entire area, check using a level. On top of the leveled base, you can lay plywood or DSP sheets.

This leveling method is not particularly complicated, but requires a significant amount of time if you need to level a large area. If possible, instead of homemade putty, it is better to use self-leveling mixtures and solutions.

The sequence of work when pouring cement screed on concrete base

The sequence when leveling using plywood will look like this:

1. The load-bearing base, boards and other wooden parts are checked. In case of damage, rotten areas and severe blockages, the structure is replaced and adjusted;
2. Sheets of plywood are laid out on the base of the floor. The canvases can be moved in any order to achieve a more convenient arrangement on the surface. After laying, a line is drawn along the contour of the sheets lying against the wall. For ease of installation, the sheets are numbered and set aside;
3. The wooden guides are installed according to the markings. To make logs, you can use 50x60 mm timber. After laying the logs around the perimeter, every 30-40 cm, longitudinal and transverse guides are installed;
4. The supporting structure is checked according to the level. If necessary, thinner bars or boards are placed under the logs. After checking, the structure is fastened metal corners and self-tapping screws;
5. Plywood sheets are laid on the support beams. A gap of 8-10 mm is maintained between the sheets, and 10-12 mm between the plywood and the wall.

If necessary, after installing the sheets, you can scrape the plywood to create an even more even surface. No additional leveling or sanding is required for laying linoleum.

As a complement to the described technologies, we recommend watching a video showing the process of leveling the base for linoleum in more detail.

How to level a floor under linoleum

In Russian apartments, sloping and uneven floors, unfortunately, are not a rare occurrence. To ensure that the coating lasts a long time and the interior looks elegant, experts recommend leveling the surface before laying linoleum flooring. To level the floor there are various technologies, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

How to level a floor under linoleum

How to level a concrete floor under linoleum

Leveling a concrete floor is quite simple and inexpensive. To do this, you will need a concrete screed mixture, levels, plasterboard guides, spatulas, as well as a standard set of repair and cleaning tools.

You can make your own concrete by mixing 3 parts sand with 1 part cement and water.

You can make your own concrete by mixing 3 parts sand with 1 part cement and water. Lime glass, gravel or expanded clay are often added to the composition. Construction stores offer a wide range of cement with different properties. For preparation you need a concrete mixer, containers for measuring and mixing.

The amount of concrete screed that will be required for repairs depends on the condition of the floor in the apartment or house. To level a surface with a slope of no more than 3 cm, a layer of 7-8 cm will be needed, while to correct more serious distortions, additional laying of concrete will be required.

First of all, you should empty the room, get rid of dust, construction debris and remnants of the previous screed. Then you need to find the highest point and place the laser level on it. It will help you make height marks around the entire perimeter of the room and set the guides at the desired height.

In order not to harm residents from the lower floors, waterproofing of the room is necessary. Suitable materials for this purpose are thick polyethylene film, roofing felt, polymer membranes or bitumen paper. Lay waterproofing coating should be overlapped, connecting the sheets with tape. By laying two layers of hydroglass insulation as an insulator, you will not only protect your neighbors from excess moisture, but also provide warm floors in the apartment.

Will help increase the strength of the floor reinforced mesh, which is laid before pouring concrete. Grids with cells 10x10 cm or 15x15 cm are perfect for this purpose. You can connect the sheets together with wire.

Then you need to place guide beacons around the room, installing them on bars or self-tapping screws. After this, you can proceed directly to pouring concrete. First, the concrete is placed inside the guides using a shovel, and then the surface is leveled with a scraper.

The mixture is allowed to harden for 12 hours and then sprinkled with water daily for 2-3 weeks to ensure drying as evenly as possible. The result is a durable monolithic coating, which must be sanded, after which linoleum can be laid.

Methods for leveling a wooden floor under linoleum

Methods for leveling a wooden floor under linoleum

Wooden floors are quite common in Soviet apartments. The plank flooring is installed just above floor level and provides additional insulation from noise and cold. Over time, the boards become deformed, so even a wooden floor must be leveled before laying linoleum. This can be done in different ways.

Technologies for leveling wooden floors:

• scraping;
• coating with putty;
• installation of plywood panels;
• use of self-leveling compounds.

Sanding wooden floors

You can scrape the floor manually using a planer, but it is much easier and faster to use a scraper machine. Surface treatment begins from the far wall and gradually reaches the doors in a “snake”. The floor in the corners is treated with a plane.

Sanding wooden floors

Operating a scraping machine requires certain precautions.

1. Before starting work, you need to clear the room of furniture, and then carefully check whether nails or other metal objects are sticking out of the floor. To prevent the metal from damaging the rotating discs of the machine, all nails must be driven as deeply as possible.
2. During operation, the device produces a lot of noise, so carry out repairs within the hours permitted by current legislation. To avoid causing hearing damage, use earplugs or hearing protection.
3. Fine wood dust can cause a lot of inconvenience, so wear a respirator while sanding and hang a damp sheet on the door.

After the initial treatment, the surface must be covered with putty to caulk all holes and damage, and then, when the composition has dried, go through the sanding machine again. Before laying linoleum, you need to vacuum the room, open the floor with an antiseptic and varnish, and wait until the surface is completely dry.

Puttying a wooden floor

First way. To level wood surfaces, special putty compositions made from sawdust and glue have been developed. The fine fraction of wood chips allows you to eliminate minor defects and unevenness on wooden surface, and also increases protection from moisture, noise and pests.

A mixture of sawdust and glue

Second way. Dry putties are available for sale, which must be diluted yourself before use. The thickness of the mixture should be approximately the same as sour cream. Apply the solution to the sanded surface, carefully covering all the cracks, with a layer no thicker than a couple of centimeters. To maintain the same floor height, you need to check using a level.

This method is one of the cheapest, because putty is sold in any hardware store for affordable prices. At the same time, the process itself is quite labor-intensive, since all the work is done manually. Just drying the putty will take approximately 24 hours, and painstaking leveling of the floor will require much more time and effort. It is much more convenient, although more expensive, to use self-leveling mixtures.

Wood putty

Puttying a wooden floor

Covering the floor with self-leveling mixtures allows you to hide up to 2 cm of slope and get rid of various defects of the wooden surface. These compounds harden quickly and make the floor perfectly smooth and durable. For roughing, coarse thick-layer compounds are used, and finishing mixtures allow you to achieve perfect smoothness. There are also special types of self-leveling compounds for stairs and the treatment of large cracks.

To prepare a self-leveling compound, you will need a container for mixing, a low-speed drill, a scraper for distribution, a needle roller and special needle soles that are attached to shoes and prevent the compound from being pulled out throughout the room.

Preparatory work includes cleaning the room, eliminating cracks in the floor, and, if possible, applying a primer. The primer layer will provide greater tightness and prevent the composition from being absorbed into the wooden surface. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on the floor, which will make the surface strong and even.

Self-leveling mixtures for flooring

Please note that work should be carried out in a room with normal room temperature and humidity, avoiding drafts and direct exposure to sunlight. Additional recommendations indicated by the manufacturer of each specific composition on the packaging.

After the first layer has dried, you can apply finishing coat. Drying time is also indicated on the packaging of the mixture.

Leveling the floor with plywood

The two methods described above are good for getting rid of minor defects in wooden flooring, for example, if the boards are damaged by moisture or temperature changes. When floors are initially installed at a horizontal slant, it is necessary to level the floor in other ways, for example, by installing plywood panels.

An excellent option for bringing the level of a wooden floor to a horizontal level is to alternately lay two layers of plywood

Since you plan to cover the floor with linoleum, sheets of FC plywood 10 mm thick are sufficient. For non-residential premises The FSF brand is also suitable, but its use is undesirable, since toxic adhesive resins are used in the production of such plywood. You can use both sanded and unsanded sheets, but the first option is preferable because it saves you time. You will also need a level, tape measure, jigsaw, screwdriver and self-tapping screws.

Then you should cut the plywood sheets into 60x60 cm squares, carefully checking the end parts of the resulting blanks. Plywood should not have cracks, chips or delaminations. The workpieces must be treated with an antiseptic composition.

Logs - support beams made of plywood - three to four centimeters wide are fixed to the floor. For installation, you can use wood glue, self-tapping screws, or both at the same time. If there is a gap between the floor and the beam, place pieces of plywood under it that are suitable in thickness. The space between the beams is filled with insulation.

Joists are fixed to the floor

When the support is ready, you can begin installing the plywood panels. The same principle is used here as in the formation brickwork: the sheets are attached with an indentation of 3-4 cm and with an offset, so that in the future the weight is evenly distributed over the plywood panels. It is also necessary to retreat a centimeter from the walls. The sheets are secured to the joists using self-tapping screws, and the gaps between the workpieces are covered with putty.

To prevent the plywood from delaminating, first prepare the holes for the dowels, install them, and then screw in the screws.

When the support is ready, you can begin installing the plywood panels

The resulting coating must be sanded (if you chose unsanded sheets of plywood), then all gaps must be caulked with putty, and the floor must be varnished. To increase wear resistance, as well as protect the room from noise and cold, you can use a special substrate, on which, in turn, you will lay linoleum.

Installing a plywood floor is a rather labor-intensive process, but correct execution Floor repair work won't bother you for a long time. Plywood sheets are an inexpensive, environmentally friendly, durable and easy-to-use material. Despite the large amount of work, a team of specialists will easily cope with it, and you will be able to enjoy the comfort and warmth.

Video - How to level a floor under linoleum

Nikolay Strelkovsky editor-in-chief

A practical guide on how to level a linoleum floor

From the author: Hello, dear reader. Just recently, one of my friends decided to renovate the floor in his apartment and wondered how to do it quickly and cheaply. We talked, and after discussing this issue, he decided to settle on linoleum. The coating is relatively cheap, has good thermal insulation properties, comes with a special lining, is absolutely not afraid of moisture, and there is nothing complicated at all in installation. There was only one question left - how to do it right. One thing that was special about his apartment was that some rooms had wooden floors, while others had old concrete screed. I had to tell him how to level the floor under linoleum.

Why is this necessary?

Linoleum is a universal porous rubberized material on a backing. If you lay it on an unprepared surface that has various flaws, such as holes, depressions, cracks with a difference in height, then soon it will have to be re-laid or patches applied.

The fact is that leveling the floor is a mandatory procedure. Linoleum does not tolerate bumps and holes, and if the floor has smooth changes, it will not fit in this place, it will create unnecessary noise when walking, and bumps and “waves” will appear. Relatively sharp irregularities will completely tear the coating after some time, since it does not tolerate tensile loads concentrated at one point.

Source: http://masternpol.ru

Alignment methods

Depending on the type of coating, leveling is distinguished:

Source: http://otdelkaexp.ru

Let's look at each method in more detail.

Cement strainer

This method is suitable for rooms with extremely uneven surfaces. The cheapest way to make a screed is to use regular cement. With a thick layer, even in small room you will need a lot of solution. Therefore, you will most likely need a concrete mixer.

It is advisable to reinforce the layer with special welded cages, which are sold in any hardware store and are relatively inexpensive. But you will get a high-quality surface that will not crack in the future.

The solution is prepared in a ratio of one to three. Also, do not forget to stick damper tape around the perimeter, otherwise damage cannot be avoided even with reinforcement. And in order to protect yourself from making repairs to your neighbors in the event of a break in heating or other communications, we recommend waterproofing the floor before pouring. To remove air from the mixture, go over the surface with a needle roller, which will eliminate the future occurrence of small potholes left by air bubbles.

To make the screed perfectly level, before pouring it is necessary to set the beacons using a hydraulic level or laser level. The beacons are set using a mixture of putty and alabaster, at a ratio of one to four - this way, the mixture will set very quickly, and the beacon will not have time to “story”.

The beacon is attached to the floor by means of a “slide” of the mixture, on the peak of which the beacon is placed and leveled according to the marks and the usual level. Two perpendicular beacons are also compared and adjusted. “Slides” should be made at a distance of 30–40 cm, so that you can safely drive as a rule and not be afraid that the lighthouse will bend. See how easy it is to do:

The disadvantage of this method is that a thick layer, 5–10 cm, takes a very long time to dry - sometimes about 10 days, with high humidity in the house. If you can’t wait that long and you can pay a little more, then a special leveling mixture is an excellent option. It dries within a day, has the most durable structure, mechanical strength is achieved in a smaller layer, compared to a conventional cement coating.

Most often, this method is used to prepare a cement floor for laying linoleum.

Leveling with plywood

If you need to level fast, then this is exactly the same case. Faster way you won't find it. In the room with small area this operation can be completed in 3–4 hours and immediately after that you can begin laying linoleum.

If the floor is wooden and relatively smooth, with only minor flaws - for example, where the boards meet (chips of a thick layer of old paint, small potholes), then leveling with plywood will be the best of all methods.

A sheet of plywood is simply laid on a wooden floor and screwed with self-tapping screws. The method is also suitable for cement floors with minor damage and no obvious bumps. In order to achieve an even more impressive result - a high-quality, flat surface, the plywood is covered with fiberboard sheets on top - it costs very little, but will make your floor perfect.

Source: http://polprofy.ru

Plywood or chipboard is essentially a universal material for leveling with your own hands; it can hide both small differences and large flaws. If, after checking the floor level, you find a large difference, you will need a method of fastening to joists.

The logs are laid as follows. Boards 30–40 mm wide are cut into desired length rooms. Then, along the line of the future placement of the board, special PVA-based wood glue is laid out. It is not recommended to use cement, as it is too brittle and will quickly collapse.

Logs are set according to levels in the same way as beacons. The voids between the glue bridges are filled with wedges from boards or strips of wood with glue. The logs are laid out at a distance of 50 cm from each other. If a large load will be concentrated on the floor, this distance should be reduced.

To save material, more easy installation and to prevent incorrect sawing, solid sheets of plywood are laid on the floor with an overlap, marked at intersections and cut according to marks.

Remember two important points. First, do not allow the cut lines of four sheets to converge at one point, lay them so that only two points converge. And second, leave allowances of about 7 mm between the wall and chipboard sheets- the gap will act as a compensator for thermal expansion and will eliminate unnecessary noise from friction during deflection.

After the glue has dried, screw on the plywood sheets, pre-treating the edges with sandpaper or a rasp. They are screwed on with the same wood screws. Not to be confused with metal screws! For those made on wood, the thread pitch is twice as large as those made on metal.

Cycling

The method is to remove upper layer wood, while leveling it. What kind of special device? In a nutshell, it is a large plane with a round or band blade.

Attention: When working, use personal protective equipment (headphones, glasses) - under no circumstances should you use the machine without protective covers or other devices!

To use this device, the surface must be prepared. It is necessary to remove all metal objects from the floor and drive in nails. Moreover, not half a millimeter, but to a greater depth than you will cut. The depth of penetration of the knife in the scraping machine is adjustable.

After work with the device is completed, you will need to manually process the corners, first with a chisel, and then rub it with sandpaper. If the cut layer was too small, then working with a chisel or plane is not required.

Then prepare the putty and fill all the cracks and holes, wait until it dries and go through the machine again. If desired, you can treat the wood with varnish or other wood protective material. The floor is ready for installation.

This method is the most labor-intensive and is rarely used in practice. However, it allows you to quickly and easily level the base without screeding or using fillers.

Leveling with putty

For me, this is a very long, difficult and irrational way of doing the work with your own hands. It is as follows. Slats are nailed or screwed onto the floor (at a distance from each other from 50 to 100 cm). A composition made from glue and sawdust is diluted. The space between the slats is filled with this composition.

The maximum layer that can be applied at a time is 1-2 cm. Then, you need to wait until the glue dries and repeat the procedure until the level is equal to the slats. And using them as beacons, make the final alignment.

Self-leveling mixtures

One option is to use self-leveling mixtures. The maximum that can be covered using this method is 5–20 mm. Everything is very reminiscent of a cement screed, but unlike it, here you need to prepare the mixture strictly according to the instructions and, before coating, treat the boards well with a deep penetration primer or concrete contact.

Then pour it onto the previously prepared surface and distribute. Naturally, we insulate the walls with a damper. We pass over the distributed mixture with a needle roller, removing bubbles. The movements of the roller should be from the wall towards you, but in no case from you to the wall.

Laying linoleum

This operation itself takes literally one hour, you just need to know a few important points. About a day before installation, unroll the linoleum - it must lie in a “working” state and straighten out.

When we bought it, we calculated, naturally, with a small allowance. After laying and distributing it around the room, there remains an overlap on the wall - it needs to be cut so that along the entire perimeter of the room, between the edge of the linoleum and the wall, there is a distance of 5–10 mm, no less. If the linoleum touches the wall, it will “wave” over time.

So how do you cut this overlap? To cut it correctly, you need to bend it exactly at the corner of the wall and cut it at 5-10 mm with a cardboard cutter. To bend it correctly, it is best to use a hatchet or similar tool - just knock on the linoleum, and it sits rigidly in the corner between the hay and the floor, acquiring a strict 90°.

Cut off the excess. Let the linoleum sit for a little more time - as soon as all the “waves” disappear, we nail the baseboards. If the linoleum is thin, you can use a spatula to fit it into a corner, but this is rare. You can also use a professional trimming tool.

Well, that’s all, now you can do the work of preparing the floor and laying linoleum on your own and save your money. If you are still not sure, then do not take risks and invite specialists. Good luck!

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How to level the floor

Leveling the floor is one of the main stages of installing laminate, linoleum and tiles. The performance characteristics and aesthetic appeal of the flooring depend on the quality of the work performed.

Before leveling the floor with your own hands, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the most common methods for smoothing wooden and concrete surfaces.

Leveling the floor with a screed

A floor screed is an intermediate layer that is located between the base and the floor covering. If the surface difference is from 3 to 10 cm, use a cement screed. For a relatively even base, special mixtures are used to level the floor.

There are two types of floor leveling mixtures. Some must be applied manually, others spread over the subfloor on their own (self-leveling).

The leveling mixture of the first type is diluted with water to the desired consistency. Apply it along the beacons using a metal spatula. The height of the screed layer should be from 10 to 30 mm.

Self-leveling mixtures are made on a cement base with the addition of plasticizing and reinforcing additives. Thanks to its special properties, the material spreads, forming a solid and reliable base. In the process of leveling the floor with a self-leveling mixture, beacons and levels are not needed, and a needle roller is required to remove air bubbles.

Leveling the floor with expanded clay

Expanded clay has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, and therefore it is often used for arranging heated floors. Before pouring the screed, it is necessary to clear the base and install beacons. The process is carried out in two ways:

1. Pouring sand-concrete mortar onto expanded clay. First, the base is covered with expanded clay, and then filled with a mixture of cement and water. After it dries, they begin pouring sand-concrete mortar. The screed takes three weeks to dry, and it needs to be sprayed with water daily.
2. Pouring a mixture of expanded clay, concrete and sand. Expanded clay is thoroughly mixed with water in a construction mixer, then sand and cement are added. The resulting mixture is spread on the surface and leveled. Without waiting for it to dry, a concrete screed is poured on top.

Leveling the floor with gypsum fiber sheets

Gypsum fiber sheet (GVL) – inexpensive material with good sound and heat insulation characteristics. For laying on the floor, it is advisable to choose a waterproof gypsum fiber sheet (GVLV) - it is resistant to high humidity.

On the prepared surface you need to add a layer of dry mixtures, for example, expanded clay, sand or perlite. All significant depressions should be removed with cement-sand mortar.

Leveling the floor with plywood

Plywood is an inexpensive natural material that is used for dry screeding in wooden buildings. One of the common technologies for leveling plywood floors under laminate is laying on joists.

Before leveling the floor with plywood, you need to install wooden frame on a concrete base. Then, the sheet of plywood needs to be divided into four parts, since small surfaces are less susceptible to deformation. You can apply a primer or mastic to the cut sheets for greater strength.

The material is laid out according to the principle of brickwork with a gap of 8-10 mm, while the edges of the plywood should not touch the wall. The sheets should be fastened with self-tapping screws to the base.

This method is not suitable for leveling the floor in an apartment with low ceilings, since after installing the logs, the height of the room is reduced to 10 cm.

How to level a concrete floor

How to level a concrete floor under laminate

The concrete base for laying the laminate must be perfectly level, otherwise the locks of the floor covering may become loose, resulting in creaking and cracks. The following methods for leveling a concrete surface are recommended:

1. Cement strainer.
2. Application of self-leveling mixtures.
3. Laying plywood covering.
4. Leveling with expanded clay.

How to level a concrete floor under linoleum

Leveling a concrete floor under linoleum is done using the same methods as under laminate, but there are some peculiarities.

If you plan to use natural material, its base must be treated with a special glue with good adhesion, which will not allow the coating to move. PVC coverings, on the contrary, can be laid without applying glue, securing the canvas with skirting boards.

How to level a concrete floor under tiles

A concrete base is considered suitable for laying tiles if it is sufficiently smooth and free of significant defects. All minor imperfections can be removed using cement-sand mortar. In order to level out large cracks and irregularities, the following methods are used:

1. Cement strainer
2. Use of self-leveling mixtures.
3. Leveling with expanded clay.

How to level a wooden floor

How to level a wooden floor under laminate

If the wooden floor has significant deformations, it should be dismantled or adjusted and the joists and boards replaced. To level a relatively flat floor, you can use one of the following methods:

1. Laying plywood.
2. Using self-leveling mixtures - you must first sand and prime the floor surface, and then lay a reinforced mesh.
3. Laying drywall.

Leveling a wooden floor under linoleum

Before starting work, you must clean wooden base from damaged boards and joists. If this is not done, over time the linoleum may stretch or tear in places where it deflects. To level the floor under linoleum, the same methods are used as for laminate.

Leveling a wooden floor under tiles

It is not recommended to lay tiles on a wooden surface; such a base does not have sufficient rigidity and strength. In addition, the tree can simply rot under the influence of moisture. For this reason, cement-sand screed and plywood are not used for leveling.

To level the floor in wooden house under the tiles you can use the following methods:

1. Pouring self-leveling mortar onto the prepared wooden base.
2. Laying moisture-resistant plasterboard using self-tapping screws.

Let's sum it up

How to level a floor without a screed

Most effective method for concrete floors - the use of flowing self-leveling mixtures, for wooden floors - laying plywood or plasterboard.

How to level the floor on the balcony

Depending on what functions this part of the room will perform, leveling with expanded clay is used, cement screed, self-leveling mixtures.

How to level a wooden floor without tearing down the boards

If the wooden surface has numerous defects, the joists and boards should be replaced. To level the floor, lay plywood or plasterboard and pour self-leveling mixtures.

How to level a floor under linoleum - 5 methods that will interest you

Greetings dear readers. Spring has come - the time for repairs, and therefore I’ll tell you how to level the floor under linoleum. It's no secret that most cosmetic and major repairs require a mandatory replacement of the floor covering. And the most common, due to the ease of installation, is linoleum and similar soft roll-type coverings.

In order not to think about how to level out the waves of linoleum, we carefully prepare the base

The main problem when laying soft roll coverings is the imperfect surface rough foundation. As a result, the relief on the floor surface can become visible through the linoleum over time. To prevent this from happening, you need to carefully level the base before laying linoleum.

Methods for leveling a subfloor

All methods known to me are listed in this diagram.

Five ways to use it yourself

I’ll tell you about each of the listed methods in more detail, and you can choose the optimal solution for use in your home or apartment.

Method No. 1: leveling the base with slab materials

The photo shows correctly laid plywood

Perhaps this is the most common method, which is equally suitable for both concrete and wooden bases.

If the question is how to level the floor under linoleum so that it is level, high quality and quickly, we choose multi-layer plywood or OSB, chipboard, fiberboard, etc. The thickness of the slabs is selected based on how much the floor can be raised in order to ensure optimal evenness.

Wood-based board materials are not designed for long-term direct contact with a concrete base.
Therefore, when leveling a concrete floor, before laying the slab material, a polymer substrate no more than 2 mm thick is placed.

Microlags to compensate for unevenness

If the surface has a level difference of more than 2-3 mm, the leveling flooring is laid on micro joists. The thickness of the logs, in order not to raise the floor too much, should not exceed 0.5-1 cm.

Scheme of laying slabs on logs

The alignment instructions are as follows:

• determining the degree of unevenness;
• installation of leveling logs;
• cutting slabs into separate fragments 1 by 1 meter;
• laying the substrate;
• installation of slabs in two layers with displacement of slabs in the second layer relative to the slabs of the first layer;
• filling gaps between slabs and recesses for self-tapping screws with sealant or putty.

Laying gypsum boards on expanded clay backfill

A new product in the range of leveling board materials are gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL), which are laid using dry screed technology from Knauf. A significant disadvantage of the technology is the large thickness of the leveling layer.

Method No. 2: leveling with thin ties

Aligning the central fiber board on a concrete base

If the unevenness on the base reaches more than 1 cm, liquid mixtures are used, which are distributed evenly over the surface.

Of the leveling mixtures that I had to use, I would like to note the following:

• cement-sand mixture (CSM);
• polymer self-leveling floors

Laying the cement-sand mixture in a thin layer is carried out with preliminary filling of the plaster mesh, which will prevent the leveling layer from cracking and falling away from the base.

To prepare leveling DSPs, seeded sand with the minimum fraction of what is available on the market is used. There are no special requirements for the brand of cement used.

To ensure optimal adhesion of the leveling layer and the subfloor, the concrete base is treated with Betonokontakt primer.
To avoid cracking of the leveling layer, the leveled base is moistened with water from a spray bottle in the first two days after laying the DSP.

Laying a self-leveling floor

Self-leveling floors are complex polymer multicomponent compositions that are characterized by high fluidity during application and leveling.

As a result, using such mixtures and a simple tool - a needle roller, you can get an almost perfectly smooth coating that dries quickly and is superior in depravity. cement coatings. The only disadvantage of using self-leveling mixtures is the high price of such materials.

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How to level a floor under linoleum - 5 methods that will interest you

Greetings dear readers. Spring has come - the time for repairs, and therefore I’ll tell you how to level the floor under linoleum. It's no secret that most cosmetic and major repairs require a mandatory replacement of the floor covering. And the most common, due to the ease of installation, is linoleum and similar soft roll-type coverings.

The main problem when laying soft roll coverings is the imperfect surface of the rough base. As a result, the relief on the floor surface can become visible through the linoleum over time. To prevent this from happening, you need to carefully level the base before laying linoleum.

Methods for leveling a subfloor

All methods known to me are listed in this diagram.

I’ll tell you about each of the listed methods in more detail, and you can choose the optimal solution for use in your home or apartment.

Method No. 1: leveling the base with slab materials

Perhaps this is the most common method, which is equally suitable for both concrete and wooden bases.

If the question is how to level the floor under linoleum so that it is level, high quality and quickly, choose chipboard, fiberboard, etc. The thickness of the slabs is selected based on how much the floor can be raised in order to ensure optimal evenness.

Wood-based board materials are not designed for long-term direct contact with a concrete base.
Therefore, when leveling a concrete floor, before laying the slab material, a polymer substrate no more than 2 mm thick is placed.

If the surface has a level difference of more than 2-3 mm, it is laid on micro-lags. The thickness of the logs, in order not to raise the floor too much, should not exceed 0.5-1 cm.

The alignment instructions are as follows:

• determining the degree of unevenness;
• installation of leveling logs;
• cutting slabs into separate fragments 1 by 1 meter;
• laying the substrate;
• installation of slabs in two layers with displacement of slabs in the second layer relative to the slabs of the first layer;
• filling gaps between slabs and recesses for self-tapping screws with sealant or putty.

A new product in the range of leveling board materials are gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL), which are laid using dry screed technology from Knauf. A significant disadvantage of the technology is the large thickness of the leveling layer.

Method No. 2: leveling with thin ties

If the unevenness on the base reaches more than 1 cm, liquid mixtures are used, which are distributed evenly over the surface.

Of the leveling mixtures that I had to use, I would like to note the following:

• cement-sand mixture (CSM);
• polymer self-leveling floors

Laying the cement-sand mixture in a thin layer is carried out with preliminary filling of the plaster mesh, which will prevent the leveling layer from cracking and falling away from the base.

To prepare leveling DSPs, seeded sand with the minimum fraction of what is available on the market is used. There are no special requirements for the brand of cement used.

To ensure optimal adhesion of the leveling layer and the subfloor, the concrete base is treated with Betonokontakt primer.
To avoid cracking of the leveling layer, the leveled base is moistened with water from a spray bottle in the first two days after laying the DSP.

Self-leveling floors are complex polymer multicomponent compositions that are characterized by high fluidity during application and leveling.

As a result, using such mixtures and a simple tool - a needle roller, you can get an almost perfectly smooth coating that dries quickly and is superior in damage to cement coatings. The only disadvantage of using self-leveling mixtures is the high price of such materials.

The table lists mixtures for finishing floor leveling.

Method No. 3: alignment using substrates

So that later the question of how to level the linoleum on the floor does not arise, the base can be covered with a backing that can compensate for the microrelief.

The following types of substrates are available for sale:

• polymer– foamed PVC or polyurethane, used if the relief is less than 2 mm;
• made from natural materials – cork oak bark, felt and jute are used for any terrain.

Each of the categories listed is different performance characteristics, according to which compatibility with the type of base is determined:

• Polymer substrates are not afraid of moisture and do not allow air to pass through, and therefore they can be laid directly on concrete;
• Substrates made from natural raw materials are placed with your own hands either on wooden floors or on a plastic film previously laid on a concrete base.

The table contains an example of materials whose quality is trustworthy.

Method No. 4: leveling with mastics

Mastics used for gluing linoleum are a good tool for leveling the relief up to 2 mm. The mastic is applied to the dust-free base in an even layer, and after installation the coating is rolled with a rubber roller.

The only drawback of using mastics as an adhesive and leveling layer is the need for proper experience working with such materials.

Otherwise, the use of special mastics is characterized by obvious advantages, among which:

• high adhesion;
• hydrophobicity;
• sound and heat insulating qualities;
• affordable price compared to slab materials;
• preservation of original properties throughout the entire operation of the finished coating.

For mastics, I recommend bitumen-rubber and bitumen-chalk compositions, which can be purchased at most hardware stores. I don’t specify specific brands, since all the mastics I’ve come across are suitable for their purpose and provide good adhesion.

Method No. 5: mechanical alignment

If you plan to lay linoleum on a wooden floor, you can use a sanding machine to level the plank base. This mechanism passes along the wooden surface, removing a layer to a thickness corresponding to the difference in levels. In the end you will get flat surface, on which it remains to seal the gaps between the boards.

Before sanding, you will have to additionally sink the nail heads into the wood.
If this is not done, the cutting edge of the knives will be damaged by the metal and will require additional sharpening.

Conclusion

Now you know 5 ways to level a linoleum floor. Check out additional information by watching the video in this article.

Do you have experience leveling floors for roll coverings? Write about it in the comments to the article, I think everyone will be interested.

May 28, 2016

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