DIY wooden staircase. Do-it-yourself wooden ladder Making a ladder with your own hands

You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not pay attention to minor defects during construction, which can subsequently lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. A staircase to the second floor made independently will give you several advantages:

  • the result will meet expectations;
  • will help save money and nerves;
  • a staircase made by yourself will become a source of pride for you.

If you are limited in cash to purchase materials, you can buy cheaper analogues: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be coated with varnish or paint.

In pursuit of savings, you can lose sight of quality. Although a cheap wooden staircase can also last for quite a long time, it will very soon begin to creak. To avoid this problem, the ladder must be assembled using silicone sealant, which is impossible to do without first painting the parts.

In this article we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands from wood and metal, and also show photo and video instructions.

For the manufacture of interfloor stairs Concrete with tile or marble lining, metal (a welding machine is required), as well as wood can be used. The last option is the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is lightweight, easy to install and has a beautiful appearance.

If you have a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, you should give preference to straight structures, or with a staircase turning by 25%. The flight of stairs is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storing things. One cannot fail to note a minus: the free space on the upper and lower floors will be significantly reduced.

To save precious square meters A spiral staircase is ideal, but it is also not without its drawbacks:

  • the climb is too steep;
  • small width of stairs.

For installation spiral staircase 3 m² required free space and a lot of work.

Another option for constructing a staircase is possible, in which it is located along the surface of the wall. In this case, it is worth considering two marches and a turn. This way you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.

  1. Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first and second floors along with the ceiling. This way you will determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18–20 cm. Next, dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you will get the total number of steps.
  2. Projection of dimensions onto the floor surface. To design the structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (approximately 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. As a result, you will get the projection size.
  3. Manufacturing of staircase elements. To make a stringer you will need timber measuring 14×16, steps – 4 cm boards, risers – 2.5 cm boards. You will determine the length of the step yourself, remembering that the larger it is, the better.
  4. Preliminary fitting. If everything fits during the preliminary fitting of the parts, process each element with a grinding machine and assemble the structure. To fix the staircase parts together, coat all places where they come into contact with each other with glue (PVA or wood glue) and additionally secure with screws.
  5. Stain and varnish coating. First, apply stain to the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover it with several layers of varnish.

As a design solution, you can consider mortise steps, which are inserted into grooves cut into the stringer:

  1. Make markings on the stringer where the steps will be installed. Using a hacksaw and chisel, cut out the grooves.
  2. Make several 9mm holes in the center of the groove.
  3. Screw the turbo couplings into the holes made.
  4. Install the step into the groove and tighten with bolts.

When purchasing planed wood, you must consider the following requirements:

  • there should be no dark spots on the surface;
  • The presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.

Knots (diameter up to 1 cm) can only be present if the material is used to make steps or risers. Also pay attention to humidity; the large mass of the board indicates that you should refuse the purchase.

When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and desire will help you achieve the desired result.

Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of making wooden stairs. First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual design details. To do this, take well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. Several factors should be taken into account:

  • The strength and reliability of the staircase will entirely depend on the correct cutting of the stringers. Therefore, their production must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the stringer it is necessary to select a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45–50 mm.
  • The board for risers can be 15–20 mm thicker than what is allocated for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves should be ideal flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be between 30–35 mm.
  • If you want to do closed staircase with risers, their manufacture must also be extremely careful. Its thickness should not be large, 15–20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
  • As for balusters and handrails, it is recommended to purchase them ready-made with stationary fastenings.

If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.

When all the design blanks are ready, you can begin the most important stage of work - installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:

  • Stringers are installed at the selected location. To do this, attach a support beam to the floor; it is on it that the stringer will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out in a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, a metal support is used for fastening. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. When installing the stringer, be sure to check everything for a level or plumb line.
  • Before laying the tread fabric, you should screw the risers.

  • After this, treads are fixed with self-tapping screws on the stringers and on top of the risers in the direction from bottom to top.
  • After this, the balusters are installed.

So, you install support drains on top of the stairs and below. They will serve as the border of the handrails and also support the railing.

In addition, the support posts serve as decorative elements. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.

Balusters, in turn, can have different shapes, dimensions and fastening methods. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be covered with a decorative plug. Further work looks like this:

  • On top of the installed balusters, attach the railings to the outer support posts. Additionally, you can install 1 or 2 additional support posts in the middle.
  • When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters, several boards can be installed between the posts parallel to the slope of the stairs.
  • On next stage You can start sanding using sandpaper or a sander. After this, the paint coating is applied.

The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and mold/mildew. The structure must dry, after which you can begin the main painting.

The staircase is varnished on water based, hot wax or paint. You can also cover the wood with stain, which will slightly darken the structure. It all depends on your desire.

Thus, the wooden staircase is ready for use.

A staircase made of metal requires a lot of labor, plus not everyone has the skills to work with welding machine. And yet, if you are ready to carry out work of this kind, then you need to prepare the following set of tools:

  • Welding machine and electrodes for direct currentØ3.2 and 1.6 mm.
  • Welder protective mask.
  • Mittens.
  • Grinder and cutting discs 125×1.6 mm.
  • Sanding disc 125 mm.
  • Drill and set of drills for metal.
  • Metal table.
  • Clamp that can be adjusted from 0 to 800 mm in height.
  • Vise.
  • Pencil.
  • Square.
  • Roulette.
  • Metal paint.
  • White Spirit.
  • Primer.

Given all this, and also suitable material installation work can begin. As for the selection of material, this can be done according to the completed drawing. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the principle of manufacturing a metal staircase on two stringers.

It is worth immediately noting that the entire process consists of the following step-by-step actions:

  1. Manufacturing of blanks.
  2. Making fillies, i.e. step fastening units.
  3. Welding the support corner.
  4. Installation of the stringer.
  5. Welding steps and railings.
  6. Sanding and priming/painting.

All work should be done slowly, strictly adhering to all dimensions of the drawing. Otherwise, any small distortion will be problematic to correct; moreover, it will ruin appearance finished design. So, the work is carried out as follows:

  • It is necessary to make fastenings for steps (fillies) from the corners. In relation to each other, they should be mirror images.
  • You can make fillies from a corner. To do this, cut out the samples and join the corners together. The result should be L-shaped blanks with shelves down and inward. Depending on the number of steps, you make a pair of fillies. One of them will be left, the other will be right.
  • Between each pair of angles, weld brackets for attaching the step and crossbar. The crossbar is similarly made from a corner.
  • To increase strength, you can install small gussets at the bottom of the step towards the stringer.
  • Now take the square one profile pipe and make markings on it, or rather, on its edge. Using it you can weld the fillies to the stringer. Transfer exactly the same markings to another stringer. As a result, it will be possible to achieve the geometry of the entire structure.

If the metal staircase is more than 1.2 m wide, then you will need to install an additional stringer.

Next you need to attach the stringer. At the bottom it is welded to the support platform, and at the top it is fixed to the floor slab or to the wall with anchors. In each individual case, the fastening method may differ. Therefore, be guided by the features of your opening. During this process, it is important to stay level. Moreover, the two stringers must be strictly at the same level. Finally, all that remains is to weld the steps to the fillets. As an option, you can install wooden steps on the fillies. But for this you need to use fastening bolts.

The topmost step should be installed as close to the wall as possible (if the stringers are anchored to the wall). Next, weld the fence. At the same time, install it on the side so as not to reduce the width of the steps.

When arranging the railings, you can use forging or purchase prepared elements. Here again, it all depends on your personal taste and vision of the final result.

When all welding work completed, it's time to grind all the weld joints. It is also necessary to remove all burrs and nicks. Using wire brush, sweep away all particles. After this, the surface of the stairs is primed and painted in the desired color.

If the steps are wooden, then their installation is carried out after the paint has dried.

Finally, you can decorate the stairs. For example, cover the steps from the bottom with wood. You can also make fencing from of stainless steel. Lay out the steps ceramic tiles. Due to this, a seemingly careless and bulky design will acquire beautiful outlines and will be an excellent addition to the interior of the house.

Although this entire process may seem straightforward, working with metal is very tedious. Unlike working with wood, when it is easy to correct defects and shortcomings, working with metal is much more problematic. However, the service life of the entire structure significantly exceeds its wooden counterpart.

Speaking of attractiveness and bright element interior, then competitors to the spiral staircase can hardly be found. If properly constructed, it will last for many years. It can be made from wood or metal with forged elements. There are 4 main types of spiral staircases:

  1. A design with wedge-shaped steps, the narrow side resting on a supporting central column, and the wide side resting on a wall or fabricated frame. In this case, spiral bowstrings are constructed on stringers.
  2. Separately standing structure, remote from the walls with cantilevered steps on a monolithic pillar located in the center.
  3. Design without a central support column. The support for the steps is curved bowstrings or stringers, which smoothly turn into railings. This option is very beautiful and sophisticated. However, it is very difficult to manufacture.
  4. Design with a central support rod (asbestos-cement or steel pipe Ø50 mm can act as a support). This type of staircase is the most common.

As practice shows, the most convenient spiral staircases are those with a span of 0.8–0.9 m wide. As a result, the diameter of the entire staircase structure will reach up to 2 m, this taking into account the central support post and railings. If we talk about the shape of the staircase, it can be round, square, rectangular or oval.

If the traffic intensity in your house is low, then the total diameter of the stairs is sufficient to make it up to 1.5 m. In this case, the treads will have a width of up to 0.6 m.

It is also necessary to consider the ergonomics of the spiral staircase. The principle of the size and height of steps is the same as on ordinary straight stairs; we have already talked about such measurements above. But there are some features, namely a comfortable lifting height for a person. For example, we suggest you consider the option of a spiral staircase, 3 m high and 0.8 m wide.

The calculations are presented below:

  • The total diameter of the staircase with these dimensions is equal to twice the width of the flight, and the thickness of the support post is 20 cm. As a result, we get the following - D = 0.8 × 2 + 0.20 = 1.8 m.
  • The lifting radius is equal to half the width of the flight of stairs and support: Rn = 0.4 + 0.1 = 0.5 cm.
  • Now, by dividing the length of the movement trajectory by the depth of the tread, you can determine the number of steps in one turn: L = 2 π: 200 = 2 × 3.14 × 500: 200 = 17.2. As a result, in one turn flight of stairs maybe 17 steps.
  • It is also necessary to calculate the ergonomic height of the step. This must be done taking into account that a person can move freely at full height. Let's take as an example a height of 1.8 m, add operational 20 to this value and divide by the number of steps in one turn. The result is: h = 2000: 17 = 120 mm.

If the spiral staircase has a height of 3 m, then to determine the number of steps, do the following: n = 3000: 120 = 25. The result is 25 steps, 12 cm high.

In order for a spiral staircase to be durable and easy to use, it is important to follow the following rules:

  1. It is better not to install risers on a spiral staircase. This will increase the safety of the structure, and the foot will rest well on the step and will not slip off the step in a narrow place.
  2. If the passage height is 2 m, then even A tall man will be able to comfortably move up stairs.
  3. To install the support post, select a location that will support the weight of the entire structure and 2-3 people.

For steps, it is best to choose a durable type of wood, such as oak or beech. Although it is much easier to buy ready-made steps. For example, you buy a step rectangular shape, and cut out the required configuration from it. The thickness of the product can be 40 mm or 30 mm. If one step is divided diagonally, the result will be two steps at once. The edges of the workpiece must be rounded and sanded with a grinder. Then you can varnish or paint them. A special bushing should be attached to the step, which will hold it on the support post.

Building a staircase in a house is not an easy process, but it is doable. The main difficulty lies in calculating the angle of inclination and span parameters, because not only the ease of use, but also the durability of the structure depends on this. Durable and beautiful staircase going to the second floor with your own hands is an opportunity to test your strength and gain experience for further home improvement.

First you need to decide on the type of staircase in order to make the calculations correctly. The most commonly used stairs in the house are wood, concrete and metal; According to the configuration, they are straight, rotary and screw. There are also combined designs of varying complexity.

Concrete products require a very strong base and a lot of time to manufacture, but they are the strongest and most durable. Installation metal structures It will not be difficult for those who know how to use welding, and a wooden staircase can be made by anyone who is familiar with the technology of this process in detail.

A straight flight of stairs to the second floor is considered the easiest to install; it consists of a small number of parts, takes up little space, and does not require complex calculations. Screw structures are used where there is little free space; They look very elegant, but are not always easy to use. Lifting something large and heavy up such steps will be problematic. Multi-span structures are more difficult to build, but they are ideal for houses where long distance between floors.

Simple wooden staircase

A single-flight staircase consists of stringers, railings, treads and risers. The tread is the horizontal part of the step, the riser is the vertical part. Stringers are load-bearing structural elements that have special cutouts along the upper edge for attaching steps. Instead of stringers, bowstrings are often used - load-bearing beams with grooves for steps. Risers and railings are not mandatory elements, but for convenience and safety it is better when they are present.

The height of the stairs is equal to the distance between floors plus the thickness of the floors. To simplify the calculation of the length of the span and base, you first need to determine the parameters of the steps. If elderly people and children live in the house, optimal height The height of the steps is 15 cm; for the rest, a height of 20 cm will be more convenient. It is not recommended to make the riser even higher, since the rise will be too steep and less comfortable.

The width of the step is 20-30 cm, and here a lot depends on how much space can be allocated under the stairs. The wider the steps, the more space the structure takes up. When suitable dimensions have been selected, the number of steps and the length of the base can be calculated. To do this, divide the height of the stairs by the height of the riser, round the resulting value to a whole number, and then multiply by the depth of the tread. For example, if the total height is 3 m and the riser height is 20 cm, 15 steps will be required:

3000:200=15

With a step width of 25 cm, the length of the base is 15x250=3750 mm.

Manufacturing technology

When the calculations have been made, you can begin to manufacture the staircase elements. Stringers require very dense solid wood, because they must support not only the weight of the structure, but also people. A template is cut out of thick cardboard, on which the cutouts correspond to the size of the steps, and the slope equal to angle the inclination of the stairs. At the ends of the stringers, grooves are cut for attachment to the base and upper ceilings, after which markings are made according to the template.

For further work you will need:

Using a jigsaw, protrusions are made on the stringers according to the markings, then they are processed on both sides with a grinder. Holes for fasteners are cut out in the floor beams or metal supports are installed. A support beam is installed on the floor of the first floor along the line of the lower step and secured with anchor bolts. After this, the stringers are installed, making sure to check the angle of inclination using a level. The stringers are secured at the bottom and top with anchor bolts.

The next step is making the steps. To do this, take dry boards with a thickness of 36 mm or more; their width should be equal to the width of the steps or be slightly larger. For risers, you can use boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more. The length of the blanks must correspond to the width of the stairs - from 80 cm to 1.2 m.

After trimming, each workpiece must be sanded to remove sharp cuts and irregularities. The process of installing the steps is very simple: the lower cutouts of the stringers are coated with wood glue and risers are applied, aligning them along the edges. They are secured with self-tapping screws and laid on top of the steps. Glue is needed so that under load wooden elements didn't creak.

Having laid all the steps one by one, they begin to install the railings. Railings consist of balusters and handrails; For the manufacture of balusters, square beams or shaped pieces of wood are used. Balusters are installed either on each step or every other step, depending on the slope and length of the span. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, which are often closed with special plugs for beauty. If the staircase to the second floor is located in the center of the room, railings can be installed on both sides.

The finished structure is sanded again and treated with an antiseptic primer. After this, you need to cover the wood with varnish, paint or other composition that does not form an overly smooth surface. If the steps are rough, this will increase their safety for household members. The coating is applied in 2 or 3 layers, with each layer being completely dry before applying the next.

In a spacious house with concrete floors on the second floor, you can make a concrete staircase. Most often, two types of structures are installed in houses - monolithic and combined, in which only the stringer is concrete. The second option looks more attractive and elegant. For the manufacture of concrete stairs You definitely need formwork and a very strong foundation.

During the work you will need:

  • edged board covered with film or waterproof plywood;
  • durable timber 100x100 mm;
  • knitting wire and fittings;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • concrete solution.

Boards for formwork are chosen with a thickness of 3 cm, the thickness of plywood should not be less than 18 mm. All dimensions are calculated in the same way as for a wooden staircase, but the base must be as strong as possible. They start by assembling the formwork: boards or plywood are knocked down according to the drawing, observing the angle of inclination and preventing the formation of cracks.

The finished formwork is installed between floors and secured with wooden blocks. After this, reinforcement is laid out inside the frame, tying the transverse rods with wire. In the places where the railings are installed, wooden plugs are fixed, and then the formwork is poured ready-made solution. The frame must be filled immediately, otherwise the solidity of the base will be broken.

When the concrete has set well, the formwork is removed, and the surface of the steps is periodically moistened to avoid cracking. You can begin finishing only after completely dry and strengthening of concrete. To make a combined staircase, pouring the stringer is done in exactly the same way, but the formwork is made much narrower and takes into account the installation of steps.

For finishing monolithic design use wood, stone, tiles and other materials. When facing, you should take into account the weight of the material, because tiles and stone place a greater load on the base than wooden panels. Any steps can be attached to a concrete stringer; such a base combines especially well with wood.

For the manufacture and installation of straight metal stairs for the second floor you will need:

  • steel channel No. 10;
  • metal corners;
  • welding machine;
  • sheet iron;
  • file and grinder with a grinding attachment.

The channel is cut into pieces and a frame is assembled from them according to the size of the stairs. Corners are welded to the side edges of the frame at regular intervals equal to the height of the step. All corners should be parallel to each other. To make it easier to install the structure, the steps are welded after installation and fastening of the frame.

The upper ends of the frame are securely fixed with anchor bolts to the ceiling of the second floor, the lower ends are fixed to the floor. Next, the steps are welded from sheet iron and the railings are attached. Upon completion of assembly, the joints are ground with a nozzle or treated with a file, and then covered with an anti-corrosion primer.

This design takes up little space and looks more decorative. With a height of 2.5 m, you will need to make approximately 15-17 steps; the base diameter will be about 2 m. The most common way to install spiral staircases is to string trapezoidal or triangular steps onto the central axis. The narrow part is 15 cm wide, the wide part is 30-35 cm.

To make a spiral staircase yourself, you will need:

  • steel pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
  • pipe with a diameter of 55 mm;
  • wooden slats for the template;
  • corners for steps;
  • welding machine;
  • file;
  • primer.

The smaller diameter pipe is the central post, so its length should correspond to the distance between the first and second floors. For greater stability of the structure, it is recommended to concrete the stand at the base, first aligning it vertically. A larger diameter pipe is cut into cylinders about 25 cm long. The cuts must be made strictly perpendicular, otherwise the steps will not be aligned horizontally.

It is very important that the cylinders fit snugly on the central pipe and did not form any backlashes. If a tight connection does not occur, sealing rings will be required.

To make steps, it is convenient to use a template made from slats. The wooden slats are glued together so that the corners inserted into the frame form a step of the specified parameters.

Each stage is welded to its own cylinder and carefully ground. After all the elements have been manufactured, you can begin assembling the structure. The steps are placed on the axle pipe, the angle is set and tightly welded to the axle.

The final stage is attaching the railings and finishing. Railings can consist of fittings, chrome-plated tubes, thin profiles; Forged railings look very elegant. All metal surfaces must be sanded, primed and painted.

In a similar way, a spiral staircase to the second floor is assembled from wooden steps. Wood blanks are made in the form of a trapezoid, in the narrow part of which a hole with a diameter of 50 mm is drilled. By using special seals the steps strung on the axis are fixed on the central post. Next, the railings are installed, the wood is primed and painted, and decorated with decor.

Video - How to make a staircase to the second floor

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden staircase

In any building with a height greater than a floor, a staircase is installed. This design requires a detailed calculation of all its components, the ability to work with plumbing and carpentry tools, and some design skills. After studying this instruction, you will learn how to design and make a wooden staircase with your own hands.

A wooden staircase for a private house most often consists of one or several flights (flights), which are located between floors or intermediate platforms.

The design of a flight of stairs is a combination of various components with different functional purposes:

  • Kosour. It is a load-bearing beam made of wood with a sawn comb. Risers with steps are fixed to it, so the part must be durable.
  • Bowstring. In some cases, it becomes an alternative to a stringer, performing load-bearing functions (especially if one side of the structure is adjacent to the wall). Before installation, the string must be marked in detail so that the steps are located at a horizontal level.

  • Step. The main element of any staircase, which is attached to one of the load-bearing beams. In addition to the usual ones, there are winder and radius steps. The winder elements have a non-standard shape and are mounted at the starting point of the march. Radius steps have a curved leading edge and can be semi-circular, wavy or with rounded corners.
  • Riser. The part is optional, but it provides the staircase with high strength by supporting the step in the center. A spacer bushing is used to secure the riser. Under semicircular steps a radius type is installed, and a curved version is mounted under the corresponding steps or under the landing between flights of stairs.
  • Pillars for support. They are placed at the starting and ending points of the stairs, as well as along the edges of the inter-flight platforms. The elements increase the strength of the fence and serve as support for the handrails.
  • Balusters. These are supporting posts for handrails, from which side railings are formed, and can have different configurations.
  • Handrails. They are a required part. They rest on balusters and support posts. The main requirement for the element is a smooth surface.
  • Distance sleeve. Such a stand is required for any structure with several flights (even when using stringers).

When choosing a staircase structure, the main factor is the size of the area required for its construction. In second place is the convenience and comfort of ascent and descent. Here you need to take into account the frequency of use, the presence of children and elderly people in the house.

Aesthetics is also an important criterion. The staircase should be combined with the interior of the room. In addition, you need to take into account material possibilities: manufacturing wooden stairs with complex configuration requires greater time and financial costs than options that are simpler in form and execution.

Marching

Are the most popular. They got their name thanks to marches (flights) - a group of united steps. The staircase may have one or more flights.

There are straight structures (single-flight and double-flight, with a rest area). They can be free-standing or placed near the wall. But straight models require a lot of space, so in order to save useful space, two-flight options are provided with a rotation at an angle from 90 to 180 degrees.

The flight has a curved shape with an optimal angle of elevation, then rotary steps are used, which are also available in structures with two and three flights without platforms.

The most popular types of wooden stairs for a country residential building are:

  1. Ordinary one-march ones. Have simple design with a span in the center of the room or near the wall - the most durable with reliable support.
  2. Curvilinear single-flight. Installed in large rooms to emphasize spaciousness. They are distinguished by smooth turning and extended outside steps.
  3. Marching with lower turning steps. Sometimes this option is provided for by the layout of the room and can support the chosen architectural style.
  4. A simple 2-flight system. A staircase with two flights and an interfloor turning platform can be mounted above the door and save space.
  5. 2-flight L-shaped design. It is located in a rectangular opening along perpendicular walls and saves space.
  6. 2-flight U-shaped staircase with an upper platform and turning steps. The design is installed in luxury mansions with a large hall.
  7. 3-flight system with two platforms. This type of staircase saves space, but requires a significant ceiling height.

To select a specific configuration, you must correctly calculate and measure the free area for installation and draw up a drawing. Detailed Guide How to do this will be described below.

Screw

Screw-type structures are used less frequently, as a rule, with limited space or for aesthetic reasons by the owner of a private house. They are not as convenient as marching ones, and it is difficult to transport furniture on them. To install the ladder, you will need to perform complex calculations, since with a small error it may lose its functionality.

Spiral staircases sometimes serve simply a decorative function, especially with a fence made of artistic forging. The installation of such options is possible in almost any room, because they occupy less space than designs with a turn. The following types are distinguished:

  • with cantilever pinching of steps on the internal pillar;
  • with steps supported on the internal pillar and perimeter walls;
  • with cantilever support of steps on the casing pipe;
  • with support on the fence and bent bowstrings.

Spiral staircases save space

Types of structures

Before making a wooden staircase, you should choose the best design option for your room.

The following popular types of structures exist:


The simplest is a straight staircase, which ensures linear movement along the flight.

Let's look at making a wooden staircase with your own hands with clear step-by-step instructions in more detail. The process includes two main stages: design and installation.

Calculations of staircase dimensions

Before you start designing, you need to make accurate calculations, draw a diagram and put all the data on it. If you are not sure of the correctness of the calculations, then it is better to entrust the work to professionals who will make a competent drawing, which will allow you to carry out the installation step by step without errors.

Total height of the stairs

The height can be determined by measuring the distance from the floor of the first to the second floor, taking into account the thickness of the ceiling. For example, if on the 1st floor the ceiling height is 2700 mm, and the thickness interfloor ceilings– 300 mm. As a result, the total height will be equal to 3000 mm.

If there is no finished floor, then its dimensions need to be approximate.

Number of steps

If the height of the staircase and riser are known, the number of steps in the structure can be determined. To do this, you need to divide one indicator by the second. For example, with a total staircase height of 3000 mm and a riser height of 175 mm, the calculation will be as follows: 3000: 175 = 171 mm.

After this, you need to round the value, the result will be 170 mm. The table shows an example of a calculation:


Dependence of the height of the steps on their number at a given floor height

Riser height

According to experts, the optimal riser height should be 150–180 mm, which is actually the size of a human step. This height can be 150–200 mm. Usually the average value according to the standard is 160-170 mm.


The optimal slope range of the stairs is highlighted green

Step width

To avoid injuries as a result of incorrectly selected width of steps, you need to calculate it correctly. Based on many years of practice, the width of the part should be in the range of 220 – 400 mm.

To determine a more accurate value, you can use a certain formula. You need to take the average width of a human step (600 - 640 mm) and subtract from it the height of the riser, multiplied by 2, i.e. 640 – 2x175 = 290 mm. This indicator will be optimal for moving.

March width

According to safety rules, for convenient movement of people, the span should be at least 80 cm wide, but it is better to take at least 90 cm. For convenient transportation of furniture, this figure for a private residential building should be 100 - 120 cm.

Plan length of the staircase

To calculate this parameter, you need to multiply the number of steps and the width of the tread. In our example, it will be 29x17 = 493 cm. That is, the staircase is quite long and when constructing one flight, a room of at least 6 meters will be required. In a small log house or village house you will need to do 2 marches with a 90 or 180 degree turn.

A platform is installed between the flights or turning steps are installed. If you can’t perform the calculation yourself, you can use the special program presented below, which will clearly reflect the localization of the staircase parts.

Ceiling opening size

When constructing a staircase from solid wood you need to remember to calculate the ceiling opening so that you don’t have to bend over when going up. This indicator will depend on the slope, which affects the ease of movement and is selected individually.

A slope of 23-36 degrees is considered optimal, but often it is not possible to maintain the required angle due to the small area of ​​the room (the steeper the slope, the less area he will borrow).

The size of the opening in the ceiling area will depend on the angle of the flight of stairs. So, for a folding structure, a small opening will be required, and for a larger slope, a more significant one will be required (up to 2 m).


The size of the opening in the ceiling is determined based on the minimum permissible value for human passage

Stringer length

To determine the length of the stringer, the Pythagorean formula is used: (length of the staircase in plan)²+ (height of the staircase)²= (length of the stringer)².


That is, with a length of 493 cm and a height of 300 cm, we get the following: L = √ (4932 + 3002) = 577 cm (the indicator is taken with a margin of 580 cm).

Online calculator for calculation

For your convenience, you can use the convenient and visual one.

Material selection

After all the calculations have been completed, you need to purchase materials. This will require boards of different lengths and densities: for steps the thickness is 3-4 cm; for risers – 2-2.5 cm; for a bowstring or stringer, the thickness is 5 cm and the height is 150-250 mm. It is better to buy ready-made handrails and balusters, since their production will require lathe and a beam measuring 10x10, 15x15 cm. To fix the components, you will need screws and nails, as well as metal corners for reinforcement.

Manufacturing of parts and installation of stairs

The installation technology includes the manufacture and installation of all elements of the staircase structure in accordance with the drawing.

Assembling bowstrings or stringers

On the prepared boards you need to mark the length and saw off the excess. On the block, using a square, mark the height of the riser and the width of the tread with a decrease of 2-4 cm.


Marking a solid stringer

Assembling a bowstring with stiffeners

The notches for the steps are cut out with a jigsaw or saw. Next, place the workpiece at the installation site so that the lower edge rests against the floor, and the upper edge against the ceiling. The cuts under the steps should be horizontal, without “blockages”. After this, it is recommended to sand the surface of the block and perform milling, rounding the outer edges.

For optimal rigidity, sometimes 2, 3 or 4 stringers may be required, the number of which is selected depending on the width of the stairs. Sometimes it's easier to order ready-made load-bearing frame, which will include all elements with cutouts, designated by numbers for joining in accordance with the diagram.

Installation of steps and risers

The risers are mounted in the prepared cuts of the stringer, leveled and sanded. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws, which can then be puttied or closed. finishing material.



Options for attaching steps to the string

After fixing the risers, pre-milled steps are installed, the length of which should exceed the distance between the pair of outer stringers by 1-2 cm. The width of the elements should be 2-3 cm larger than the comb protrusion. The steps are fastened to the risers and stringers using self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the wood.


Attaching the stringer to the upper ceiling. Methods of connecting staircase elements.
Attaching the stringer to the floor

Installation of fences

You can give the structure a complete look with the help of auxiliary parts. For this purpose, carved, straight, figured wooden and metal fencing.


Installation of posts with balusters is considered challenging task, where precise marking with adjustment is required. In the step, the hole for the dowel is marked at a distance from the edge equal to ½ the width of the base of the baluster. Then holes are made on the steps and dowels are glued into them (they should protrude 1-1.5 cm from the surface).


After this, you need to make holes in the base of the posts and balusters according to the diameter of the dowel and coat them with glue. All elements are mounted on dowels with adjustment according to vertical level. Next, prepare the handrails by cutting the edges under the right angle and milling them from the bottom side. To connect to the supports, holes are drilled at the edge of the element. The handrail is installed on the glued in support pillar dowel


After the glue has dried, the stairs must be coated with an antiseptic primer, then the surface is treated with transparent or paint. You can put decorative plinth. In a spiral staircase, you can design it with an axial support in the form of a log or beam, or install a bent string to support the steps. The price of such a design will be high, since viscous material is used in production. flexible wood, but the final effect is worth it.

If you plan to make a wooden staircase with your own hands - step-by-step instruction with photos, videos and installation projects posted on this portal will be an excellent guide in this matter. To prepare for the process, you need to stock up necessary tool and materials.

Materials and parameters

Lumber: board 40 and 25 cm wide, 4 to 2.5 cm thick, beams 5x5 cm, wood glue, paints and varnishes, galvanized tie rods, screws and corners. The equipment used includes a hand-held circular saw, a screwdriver, brushes, abrasive sandpaper, a clamp, a chisel, and a grinder.

For correct placement, the slope is determined to be 25 - 40 degrees. The gap between the steps is 19 cm. The tread width is 25 cm or more. The height of the handrails is 90 cm. The string of the structure is made from pine edged boards with parameters 40 cm wide and 4 cm thick.

Installation of a regular straight staircase

  • Here you can find out the best way, which is used to create a wooden staircase with your own hands, a video with step-by-step instructions will allow you to build the structure as quickly and correctly as possible:

  • Marking of areas for installation of treads is provided by means of a circular using a template. To do this, cuts are made 1 cm deep. Using a chisel, the mass of wood between the cuts is removed. The finished bowstring is mounted on the workplace.
  • The bowstrings are fixed using screws to floor surface. To do this, you should stock up on a screwdriver and galvanized metal corners.

  • Steps are cut out of boards 25 cm wide using a circular saw. The thickness of the steps is adjusted to the width of the span, no less than 2.5 cm. The end parts are processed with a grinding machine for more reliable fixation with the bowstring.
  • The steps and strings are assembled using wood glue. The end parts of the steps and the grooves in the bowstring are smeared. Galvanized rods with threaded ends are used for the screed. Nuts with wide spacers are screwed onto them.
  • Two boards are fixed to the installed rack at a level of 90 cm. They will provide the functions of handrails.
  • 3.5 inch steel stand.
  • Solid wood 1x8.
  • Wooden elements 1×12.
  • Connectors in the form of racks.
  • Supports for handrails.
  • Handrails with specified parameters.
  • Metal base for steps.
  • Welding machine.

Spiral staircase: Materials for making

Step-by-step installation

In the design under consideration, the distance between the floors is 3 m. Then the total height is divided by the selected size of the steps and their number is obtained: 300 cm ÷ 18 cm = 16.6 pcs.

The top position will end with the 17th step (rounded result). The width of the steps along the inner edge is 10 cm. Calculation of the outer edge begins with determining the outer diameter of the stairs without handrails.

The middle post and 2 steps form a cross-section of 172 cm. To determine the circumference, you need to multiply the diameter of the staircase by 3.14. Then 172 cm x 3.14 = 540 cm. Since 17 steps are to be installed, 210 ÷ 17 = 32 cm. To create an overlap of 2.5 cm, the width of the steps on the outside is 35 cm.

Support part

The screw device is created using a central metal support and bases for the steps. For a central post with a diameter of 20 cm, 400 cm are cut off. Of these, 300 are allocated for 17 steps, 90 cm for the fence at the top and 10 cm protrude for the reserve.

The pillar is marked at the points where it is planned to erect steps, that is, every 17.64 cm. Top part crowned with a thick round plate welded to the post. At the bottom, a square platform is created with a height of 1 cm and dimensions of 30 by 30 cm. Gaps are made at each corner of the platform for anchors and fixed to the base.

Placement of steps

The steps are attached to the central support in the marked areas. Each subsequent step overlaps the previous one by 2.5 cm so that the supports for the connection can be fixed. They attach one step to another. This can be done using metal or wood. Then all the bases of the steps are fixed to the central support. Wooden steps are placed on the bases. Gaps are made in the places connecting the supports.

Then you can screw 3 railing posts onto the step so that there is a gap of no more than 10 cm between them. After installing the posts, you can fix the handrails. When purchasing material, it is important to observe the ability to form bends in the direction of the stairs.

When carrying out decorative processing, you can paste over the metal support wood materials. Varnish coatings are used to finish the steps. They are applied over a primed surface.

Attention! Widely used wooden steps in combination with glass, metal and plastic handrails.

For installation of structures they are used adhesive compositions With different types fastenings. However, their design may place too much stress on the product.

Detailed and simple diagram for standard stairs to the second floor.

Are you planning to build a private house on two floors or more? We recommend that you immediately plan what the staircase will be like. And we will help with this - this material describes in detail about the types for cottages, dachas and private houses, and the design requirements. Also, with the help of diagrams and drawings, we will use an example to explain how a staircase is calculated and built. The design is quite simple - it cannot be compared with a roof, so even an owner with only minimal construction skills can make it. We will tell you how to make sure that instead of a wooden ladder you don’t get a stepladder. By studying the drawings and diagrams, you can make a high-quality design.

Kinds

In private homes, two types have been used for centuries, which we will briefly consider:

  • Marching. This option is the simplest to implement, and the design is reliable. If a beginner gets down to business, then a marching wooden staircase will be great solution. The design can also be divided into single-flight and double-flight. Despite the differences between these types, their manufacturing complexity is the same.
  • Screw. The work is for professionals, as it requires careful measurements and calculations. One miscalculation can ruin the entire structure, so only a master can do it with his own hands. The main advantage of this design is its compactness, because the design occupies a minimum amount of space in the house. Often, a spiral wooden staircase is the center of the interior composition. The only negative is the rather steep climb, which has a negative impact on safety.

Of course, we will sort it out staircase, although we recommend that you familiarize yourself with screw options. It’s easier to do the marching version with your own hands, for which there are drawings.
Another disadvantage of a spiral staircase is that it will be inconvenient to carry large objects from one floor to another.

Preparation of materials and work features

Before you think about building it yourself, you need to draw up or take ready-made drawings, as well as prepare tools and materials for the staircase connecting the second floor to the first.

Let's start with the materials for building the structure on the second floor:

  • screws;
  • thick boards, which will later turn into steps;
  • bars - the cross-section must be at least 40 millimeters.

It is impossible to complete the work without a drawing; the image below shows in detail what needs to be measured so that the dimensions of the future structure can ultimately be calculated.

It is also worth considering the following dimensions when planning a structure for the second floor from the first:

  • angle of inclination of the stairs;
  • width;
  • height of the entire structure;
  • number of steps.

If you have skills in working with a 3D editor, then you can do detailed diagram. For example, the project will demonstrate whether a ladder can be made into a stepladder. It is also recommended to study the drawings.

Blueprints


The simplest drawing of a flight of stairs to the second floor, which the owner can make with his own hands. The drawing shows a rather large structure, but sometimes such a staircase leads to the second floor.

Knowing the distance between floors, you can calculate the number of steps. For example, the height from floor to floor is 290 centimeters, the steps are chosen to be 20 cm each. After some simple calculations, the result is 14.5 steps. It is necessary to round to 14 or 15. In the first case, the height of each step should be 20.71 cm, and in the second - 19.33 cm.

The example uses integer numbers - the height of the stairs to the second floor is 260 cm, each step is 20 cm long, resulting in 13 of them. As for the size of the flight of stairs, its width should not be less than 70 centimeters. The slope can be anything to the greater side. In the example discussed in this article, the flight of stairs is 1 meter wide.

It is also worth considering the platforms that will be below and above. The dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the flight of stairs. The ideal shape would be a rectangle or square.
These are the most simple circuits for the manufacture of a wooden staircase to the second floor. The main thing is to choose a comfortable angle of inclination so that you don’t end up with a stepladder.

The most reliable option is a straight ladder. The U-shaped option is suitable for private houses, where big square. A beginner is unlikely to master the L-shaped design.

Choosing an installation method

The design of the future staircase may include:

  • Bowstrings. This word refers to beams that support structures on both sides.
  • Stringers. The second option is beams that hold the steps of the stairs from below.

Installation

When the steps, platforms and beams are ready, you can proceed to installing the stairs yourself. The example considers the option with stringers. It is necessary to make notes in advance for the location of their installation. On the floor of the first floor, stringers are installed on a support beam. In the place where the stairs go to the second floor, supporting elements are placed in the gaps in the floor beam. In some cases they are used metal supports, serving the same purposes. The stringers are fastened using anchor bolts.

During the installation process, you should always have a building level at hand; you can also determine the position using the body kit, so that you don’t end up with a stepladder. Elements wooden structure must be installed perfectly level. The tread panels need to be secured on top of the stringers; this is most conveniently done with self-tapping screws.

Are the steps ready? This means you can begin installing balusters on the floor. At the top and bottom of the structure, support posts are mounted that limit the handrails. They are also decorative and supporting elements.

Now installation:

  1. Finished balusters must be covered with handrails (railings), which are mounted on support posts. If the structure is large, then additional support in the middle of the stairs will not hurt.
  2. Sometimes 3-4 racks are required. In this case, you should not waste energy on balusters, since even boards will be a more rational solution.
  3. After the build is complete wooden surface needs to be sanded thoroughly. You can do this with your own hands or using a power tool.
  4. Next comes the preparation before painting: all debris and dust are removed, it must dry completely. If necessary, putty is applied after sanding. Of course, this job requires wood coatings.
  5. When preparatory work completed, you can paint the wood elements. A primer is applied, and then 1-2 layers of paint. After drying, it is necessary to coat the structure with varnish. As an alternative, you can use stain.

The result is a convenient staircase, with which you can climb to the second floor with comfort and safety. If the angle is calculated correctly, then there will be no stepladder.