The fertile layer is humus, located at a depth of up to 20 cm; decomposed remains of plants, microorganisms, insects, and animals remain in it. They rot and the plants receive food.

With time nutrients becomes smaller, which reduces crop yields. To find out the condition of the soil on the site, samples are taken and laboratory tests are performed. Each crop has its own need for valuable substances. The nutrient layer is formed naturally and artificially.

If you grow plants in the same bed for several years, the nutrients will decrease significantly. Plants constantly consume nutrients and over time the soil becomes depleted. If fertilizers and mineral components are not added to the soil, the soil will become depleted.

Methods to increase fertility:

• adding mineral and organic fertilizers;
• mulching;
• rest for the earth;
• correct crop rotation;
• heat treatment;
• use of worms;
• sowing mixed plants;
• growing green manure and medicinal herbs.

The application of organic fertilizers improves the condition of the top layer of soil. To solve the problem, you need to replenish supplies: 4-5 buckets of manure per 1 square, or 3 buckets of compost for digging in the fall. On light soil, mullein is added once every two years, on heavy and medium soil - once every 3 years. Chicken droppings contain many valuable substances. It is used for composts - 1 part manure and 10 parts water.

For getting useful substances They grow green plants - green manure. Their powerful root system keeps the surface layer of the earth from destruction, helps enrich it with nitrogen and inhibits the growth of weeds. They are planted after harvest. Green manure is sown depending on the plants planted. For example, rapeseed is sown in front of carrots and beets, lupine is planted in front of tomatoes and cucumbers. These crops can be planted throughout the season.

Legumes are good green manure for depleted soil. Perennials use powerful rhizomes to pull nutrients to the surface from deep layers of soil. They loosen it, enrich it with humus and phosphorus, and reduce acidity. Legumes should not be cut down before flowering; it is during this period that nodule bacteria form on the roots and replenish the soil with nitrogen. Cereal green manure (rye, oats, wheat) compensate for the lack of humus.

To ensure that the top layer does not lose fertility, it is necessary to plant plants with a powerful root system.

The soil crumbles like dust

When vegetables that require too much nutrition are planted in one area and fertilizers are not applied, the soil not only becomes depleted over time, but also turns into dust. For example, tomatoes, zucchini, cabbage, and cucumbers contain many useful substances. This problem occurs when the surface is not mulched, and the soil is often dug up. As a result, moisture is poorly absorbed and dust is carried by the wind.

This condition also depends on the type of soil. If there is more sand in the area, it dries out quickly and does not retain moisture. It is recommended to dig up sandy soil once a year.

To make the top layer heavier, add 3 buckets of compost per square of land. Place the fertilizer to a depth of at least 10-15 cm. This will also serve as food for vegetables.

To prevent dust from flying around the garden, the area is mulched with grass, straw, sawdust, tree bark. The coating protects against weathering and weeds; as it decomposes, it nourishes the earth.

Attention!

At large quantities mulch, in the form of fresh organic matter, can lead to the death of young animals.

Solid ground

A dense earthen crust that cannot be dug up even when wet may be the result of poor maintenance or clayey soil. On loams, at least 1 bucket of sand per square plot.

Plowing the garden before the cold weather (10 cm deep) will help get out of the situation. Only the earthen clods do not need to be broken and turned over. After freezing, they will become loose by spring.

You can introduce earthworms or Californian worms into the garden. They will loosen the soil. But if the worms don't like the new place, they won't stay in the beds. In order for the worms to stay for a long time, they need decomposing humus. Mulch from rotted compost will not be superfluous.

Dandelion tincture will help attract worms. To feed the plants you will need 1 kg of grass stems or roots; they are filled with 10 liters of water. Leave for 13-14 days, filter and dilute 1:10.

! Beetroot and cabbage do not like dandelion infusion.

The soil is acidic

Improper watering changes the acidity of the soil. With soft water, acidity rises, with hard water, it decreases. Plants grown and mineral supplements increase acidity.

Liming the soil is the only way to solve the problem. On 1 square meter substances are added depending on the acidity of the earth, the more acidic, the more alkalis are added:

1. Wood ash – 0.2-0.4 kg;
2. Slaked lime - 0.2-0.3 kg;
3. Dolomite flour – 0.3-0.5 kg;
4. Chalk – 0.1-0.7 kg.

Dolomite flour and ash, in addition to their alkalizing effect, contain many useful microelements (calcium, magnesium) that nourish plants. If you add additional boron and copper fertilizers, the effectiveness of the substances increases. With the full dose applied, the effect of liming lasts up to 8 years.

Some crops do not tolerate liming well, so they should be planted a year after the procedure. Crops: tomatoes, pumpkin, beans, cucumbers, peas, carrots, celery, parsley. Green manure is planted after harvesting: rye, oats, white mustard, phacelia.

Alkaline soil

Excess alkali in the soil is not a common occurrence. Usually this is an incorrectly carried out agricultural technique, for example, if you overdid it when alkalizing the soil.

If the pH is above 7.5, then iron is not absorbed by plants. The greenery turns yellow and development stops.

Mulch is made from peat, pine needles and pine bark. Mulch after weeding, loosening, fertilizing in spring or autumn.

Mulch only after seedlings have germinated open ground, otherwise they will not rise.

Saline soil

When white spots appear on the ground, this indicates soil salinity. The reason is that a lot of mineral additives were added and the soil became salty. With a content of toxic salts of 0.15%, the yield loss is up to 20%; above 0.25%, soil salinization results in a yield loss of up to 50-60%.

Water dissolves salt; abundant watering (15 liters per square) helps in this situation. Without drainage system not enough. But there is a problem - not all plants tolerate excess liquid, and high humidity causes fungus.

Growing crops whose rhizomes loosen dense layers helps create natural drainage. Millet, sweet clover, Sudan grass, and sorghum are planted.

After dissolving the salt, the surface is covered with peat. It is necessary to monitor the application of fertilizers, trying to avoid overfeeding.

Soil contamination by fungi and insects

The colonization of the garden by pests and infections begins in spring and continues full swing all summer. The larvae and eggs stay in the ground all winter, so the only control method is to treat the garden with insecticides. Larvicides kill caterpillars and larvae. Ovicides act on the eggs of ticks and insects.

Digging up the area in the fall without breaking the clods will help the birds find food. Pests, and especially their larvae, will not be able to get back into the ground to overwinter.

All weeds, leaves, and fallen branches must be removed from the site. Harmful insects can hide under them. Weeds and foliage are often infected with fungi.

To combat diseases, Alirin B preparations are used - microflora for the soil, which suppresses infections. Moreover, it is compatible with fungicides, insecticides and growth regulators. It is better to use substances without chemicals. Baikal EM-1, EM-5, added 20 days before frost, heals the soil and suppresses phytopathogens thanks to microorganisms.

Biofungicides - Trichodermin, Baktofit, Planzir, Fitosporin, Phytocid M are applied to the upper layers of the earth after digging in the fall and spring.

If you can’t do without chemicals, then buy products of hazard class 3-4. After harvesting, Bordeaux mixture 3% is sprayed. On a dry April day, a 5-10 cm layer of soil is covered with Oksikhom 2% or a solution of copper oxychloride 4%. When planting seedlings, Bravo, Hom or Quadris are added to the holes.

Attention!

The drugs kill not only pathogenic organisms, but also beneficial ones.

To protect against diseases, green manures are planted: mustard, radish, calendula, marigolds. Their healing qualities protect neighboring plants from many diseases. To reduce soil moisture, you need plants that consume large amounts of liquid: lupine, rye. Combined green manures are often used, for example, legumes and cereals.

Soil with a red coating

When watering a garden with hard water with a predominance of iron, over time the surface of the earth becomes covered with a rusty coating. Red veins appear on the plants. The second cause of rust may be fungus.

The earth is watered with boiling water in places where there are no plants. In autumn, the biological product Fitosporin-M is used. It destroys fungal infections. Plants are watered only with settled, melt or rain water. There will be no benefit if the products are dissolved in chlorinated water.

The ground is overgrown with moss

Moss growing in the garden can be the result of increased moisture, hard or acidic soil. Most often it appears in dark places.

To remove excess liquid Drainage ditches are made from the site. Moss grows in vacant areas without plants. To check in empty place, plants are planted in the shade that feel calm without direct sunlight: fern, hydrangea, forget-me-not.

The moss itself is pulled out by hand. If it is difficult to deal with it, use ferrous sulfate for treatment - 50 ml per 10 liters of water. This volume is spent on 150 square meters of land.

Moss can be used in landscape design, in areas free from garden crops. It is planted along garden paths and in rockeries.

Constant digging damaged the soil structure

Digging is prohibited in areas of wind and water erosion, sandy soils, V marshy area. You should not dig up a garden where the soil is too dry or too wet. If the soil is disturbed, it will not be able to support a large number of crops. Beneficial bioflora will die, this will lead to diseases and a decline in immunity in plants.

If you dig in the heat, most of the beneficial microorganisms will die and the earthen clods will dry out. Even further precipitation may not be enough to restore and saturate the fertile layer. By turning over the layers of soil, bacteria are destroyed, which enrich the soil with nutritional components.

Plowing is harmful to old arable soil or light soil. The soil contains little humus; it is easily blown away and carried by the wind. In this case fertile layer must be retained with the help of green manure rhizomes.

Digging around fruit trees not only destroys the fertile layer, but also cuts off the roots that feed the entire tree. For many fruit trees the roots are located close to the surface. Damage to the rhizome will cause disease, so you cannot use a hoe or shovel in the garden, especially in areas near tree trunks.

A modest plot of land in the Moscow region came into my possession just a few years ago. The first problem that had to be solved before laying the beds was normalizing the soil reaction. The abundance of horse sorrel, creeping buttercup, horsetail, and rush grass signaled that the soil was acidic and liming was necessary. This is what I do: lime the potato bed a year before planting, so as not to provoke the development of scab on the tubers. For cucumbers, tomatoes, carrots and beets, I apply lime fertilizers during autumn digging, and for white cabbage and onions - immediately before planting seedlings and sets. I use dolomite flour - it contains not only calcium, but also magnesium.

In terms of mechanical composition, the soil in the area is heavy loam, that is, it has a high content of clay particles (a ball of wet soil easily rolls out into a cord and bends into a ring with small cracks). Because of this, the earth takes a long time to warm up in the spring, water is poorly absorbed into it, and the earth takes a long time to dry out, but in drought it becomes like stone. To change the structure of the soil for the better, when preparing the beds, I always add organic fertilizers to the soil. This had the most positive effect on the harvest of onions, garlic, carrots, cucumbers, as well as late-ripening cabbage: these crops respond very well to organic matter. Moreover, under cucumbers in the open ground, poorly decomposed manure worked most effectively - the plants spread along the ground and the leaves absorb carbon dioxide released during the decomposition of organic matter. And only rotted manure or compost should be applied to root crops (fresh manure will cause branching of root crops and reduce their shelf life during storage).

So that it works well on heavy soil White cabbage, I use the following combination of fertilizers. I apply manure or compost along with double superphosphate and potassium fertilizer in the fall for digging (it takes time for the nutrients from these fertilizers to transform into a form that is digestible for plants). In spring I embed it in the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm. nitrogen fertilizers(ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate) necessary for initial growth. And in order for them to work faster, when planting seedlings, I make sure to water the planting holes abundantly. I fertilize with water-soluble complex fertilizers 2 weeks after planting the seedlings and again after 3 weeks.

After fertility increases, I will also add bacterial fertilizers.

The composition of the soil affects the condition of the plants and the quality of the crop. Every year, specialists carry out a set of procedures to disinfect it from pathogens of fungal and infectious diseases, pests and weeds. At home, they are also necessary, since the soil accumulates a large amount over time. harmful substances. You can restore the balance of soil microflora and protect the harvest using special drugs which are sold in stores.

Disinfection and treatment

Before planting any plants, it is necessary to prepare the soil. In the absence of proper care, pathogenic microflora begins to multiply in it. These can be mycelium of fungi, nematodes, and mold microorganisms. Under their influence, plants do not take root well, and the abundance of pests can lead to complete loss of the crop.

Timely treatment of soil with disinfectants has a positive effect:

• crops grow healthy, absorb nutrients from the soil well;
• growth is suppressed weeds that interfere with the growth of vegetables and fruits;
• appears reliable protection from infection;
• the need for additional processing plants from pests.

Work time

Care for the soil in which fruits and vegetables grow ornamental crops, necessary all year round. It is most convenient to carry out procedures during periods when there are no plants in the ground. This will allow you to use any preparations and not worry about their effect on plantings and beneficial microflora.

in spring

Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to carry out the first soil treatment. This applies to the soil both in the greenhouse and in open beds. The optimal time for the procedure is after the snow has completely cleared from the area. In the greenhouse it is also recommended to adhere to these deadlines. If crops are planted for the winter, the tillage time is calculated based on the timing of planting seedlings.

in autumn

After harvesting, it is necessary to prepare the soil for winter. These measures are aimed at cleaning the soil from pests, as well as from all substances that can provoke abundant growth of microorganisms. Full complex autumn processing soil will include:

• deleting all annual plants, which in the future can create a favorable environment for the growth of fungi and infection (light tops, carrots, fallen leaves);
• mechanical cleaning of premises and plantings from dirt, preferably with bleach - especially necessary in greenhouses;
• delete extra items and do not use the greenhouse as a warehouse;
• replace the soil or neutralize it with chemicals.

Popular drugs

On sale you can find a large number of drugs that fight unwanted microorganisms and weeds. They have different composition and can be toxic to plants and humans. Before using them, you should read the instructions and, if necessary, follow safety precautions.

Bleaching powder

One of the first means for disinfection, including it can be used to disinfect soil. 200 g of dry matter must be dug with top layer soil and leave it for the winter.

The substance is suitable only for autumn treatment due to its high toxicity to plants. When working with it, you should follow safety rules - protect the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs from contact with the drug.

Advice! Despite high efficiency, bleach is rarely used. Many gardeners opt for less toxic drugs that have no less spectrum of action.

Copper preparations (Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate)

Copper sulfate is not only a well-known fungicide, but also a source of copper for plants. The substance is diluted with water in the proportion of 1 spoon of substance per 10 liters of liquid. This solution is used to water the soil both in spring and autumn.

It can also be used to detect signs of fungal or infectious diseases as crops grow. Adding the drug to the soil will not affect their condition - on the contrary, many of them respond to fertilizer with rapid growth and abundant flowering.

Fitosporin

An environmentally friendly product based on the bacterium Bscillus Subtilis. This is a beneficial soil microorganism that improves soil composition and fights pests. It is effective against most fungal and infectious microbes, as well as nematodes.

The product can be used not only on schedule, but also during the growth of crops in the soil. The only drawback of the drug is that the bacterium remains viable for a month. It is recommended to apply it more than twice a year, especially when signs of plant infection appear.

How and with what to disinfect the soil?

There are several ways to disinfect soil. Some of them are applicable only during periods of absence of crops in the soil due to their high toxicity, others can be used all year round. Drugs may have a broad spectrum of action or be developed against specific diseases.

All soil disinfection methods can be divided into several categories:

• chemical - the use of artificially synthesized substances that destroy pathogenic microorganisms;
• thermal (calcination, pouring boiling water or freezing) - based on the low resistance of bacteria to different temperatures;
• phytopurification - planting useful plants, which act as fungicides;
• environmental - the use of organic fertilizers in large quantities (manure, compost) in the absence of plants, due to which beneficial soil microorganisms are formed.

Methods for soil disinfection will vary. Some of them have a wide spectrum of action and can also be used for preventive purposes. The rest affect only the causative agents of certain diseases.

From weeds

Weeding by hand or using tools is the easiest and most affordable way get rid of weeds. However, the procedure will take a lot of time and effort. There are several simpler ways to deal with weeds:

• use herbicides at the stage of weed germination (Lazurit, Arsenal, Tornado);
• folk remedies - vinegar, table salt, citric acid;
• a dark film that covers weeds so that they cannot grow and develop.

In the greenhouse

The greenhouse creates conditions for the full development of not only plants, but also pathogenic microflora. It can penetrate not only with soil, but also with household items and tools. The remains of plants that have already been harvested are also dangerous.

In greenhouses, it is recommended to frequently change the soil, not only because of its rapid depletion, but also because of the presence of pests in it. An alternative tip is to conduct general cleaning greenhouses, use soil disinfectants and process seedlings.

For seedlings

Seedlings are especially sensitive to the effects of pathogenic microflora. The presence of weeds in the soil reduces the chances of normal germination. One way to protect plants is to pre-treat the soil chemical agent for disinfection.

If seedlings are planted in a small amount of soil, they can be treated using other methods:

• freezing at negative temperature for several days;
• roasting in the oven;
• steaming in a water bath.

Advice! There are specially prepared mixtures for seedlings on sale. However, experienced gardeners It is recommended to subject them to disinfection using a general method.

From diseases and pests

Fruit and garden plants, as well as ornamental flowers, can be exposed to pathogens of various phytodiseases. Treatment may not be effective and large amounts of crops may be lost. The only way to be completely sure that your plants are safe is to periodically till the soil in which they grow.

From fungal diseases

The fungus develops in the soil under conditions high humidity and insufficient oxygen supply. The first recommendation on how to prevent its occurrence is to dig up the soil twice a year. You can also use drugs that belong to different groups:

• seed treatment products;
• biological preparations for soil and seedlings (Baikal);
• chemicals (copper-based products).

On small area It is worth using biological protection means. They stimulate the growth of beneficial soil microflora, which will suppress the development of fungus. However, on an industrial scale, chemically synthesized drugs will be more effective and cost-effective.

From scab

This fungal disease apple trees or potatoes. It can completely destroy a crop if its development is not noticed in time and its development is not stopped. There are several recipes for treating soil against scab:

• digging up soil with pine needles, a source of natural fungicides;
• sulfur in the amount of 2.5-3.5 kg per 1 m of soil;
• aqueous solutions of sulfuric or phosphoric acids.

If the potatoes are severely damaged by scab, soil gypsum is used. 15-20 kg of gypsum is added per 100 m of surface and dug up with soil after the autumn harvest.

From late blight

Late blight is another fungal disease. It is manifested by the appearance of black spots on the leaves, which gradually increase in size and completely destroy the plant. There are several ways to prevent this disease, which will be most effective even before planting seedlings:

• treatment with manganese solution or adding wood ash;
• milling - mixing the top layer of soil using special tools, which increases the amount of oxygen in the soil;
• use of broad-spectrum fungicides.

If you till the soil, the risk of late blight is significantly reduced. Like other types of fungal infections, late blight grows and reproduces in conditions of high humidity and reduced oxygen.

From the wireworm

Wireworm is a beetle larva that feeds on potatoes. This pest causes no less harm to the crop than the Colorado potato beetle, and it must be eliminated mechanically difficult. Before planting this crop, it is recommended to treat the soil with one of the following solutions:

• potassium permanganate at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water;
• fertilizers that contain nitrogen (ammonium nitrate);
• wood ash in dry form or in combination with water for irrigation;
• purchased mixtures.

The most dangerous wireworm is for potatoes, which grow in the same beds for the second year in a row. For prevention purposes, it is recommended to change crops, and if this is not possible, timely apply soil disinfectants.

In different climatic zones gardeners are wondering how to improve and restore the soil summer cottage without the risk of destroying the fertile layer. The key to success will be an early diagnosis.

The soil gradually loses its properties. First, the harvested crop decreases, and then, after each watering, a crust covers the soil. A gardener who ignores the symptoms described risks destroying the soil. After 1-2 years the soil will become structureless. Promptly taken measures will help minimize the likelihood of such developments.

Determining the cause of the problem

The first stage of soil destruction is accompanied by a subtle smell of rot. Over time, mold will be added to it. The first and most obvious cause of the problem is the actions and inactions of the gardener:

• excessive use of chemicals;
• digging too often;
• too frequent use of fertilizers;
• wrong choice of humus and so on.

A separate category includes reasons that are caused by the wrong choice of agricultural practices. Gardeners use technologies imposed on them. Botanists recommend first checking how compatible a particular option is with a specific soil type.

Stage II of soil destruction is the result of direct human errors. A gardener who digs up the soil on a plot turns over small clods of earth. From the outside, it seems that there is nothing wrong.

In fact, humans destroy beneficial bacteria. After each “revolution”, they sink deeper underground. The less oxygen the bacteria receive, the faster they will die. You shouldn’t be surprised later that the fertile layer has become smaller. The second problem, which is caused by human actions, is associated with the destruction of earthworms. The more often the gardener digs up the site, the greater the likelihood of cutting down all the earthworms. The fewer there are, the worse the soil feels, again.

On a note!

Manure should be used in exceptional cases. He is a carrier of infection, not nutrients. The process of rotting in a heap is the result of human actions. There is nothing like it in nature. Even with a small amount of manure applied to the soil, its condition worsens.

There should be fewer manure piles

Nature is designed in such a way that there is nothing superfluous in it. As soon as the decomposition of the manure heap is completed, the artificial toxins contained in it “dissipate.” After some time, worms will come to the soil, which is saturated with manure. Beneficial bacteria are localized in their body. As soon as the bacteria react with the manure, the result will not be long in coming. The biologically active “mix” that will result cannot be classified as “safe”. Botanists call the resulting soil humified soil. It cannot be used for agricultural purposes.

The rate of soil “transformation” after such a reaction cannot be called stable. Much depends on the amount of oxygen supplied. As a rule, negative changes are localized in the surface layer. The more there is hazardous substances, the faster it will acquire a dark shade. The gardener's soil is rich in putrefactive microbes. For the time being, they are in a “sleeping” state. As soon as the situation becomes favorable, they will “move” into the active phase. A gardener who abuses manure risks his own health. Pathogenic flora will penetrate into the future harvest.

Autumn is the time when gardeners work to restore the fertility of the land. Everyone has their own approach, but the goal is the same: everyone...

Everything works differently in nature

IN natural conditions enzymatic decomposition process organic matter happens differently. The catalyst is the remains of leaves and grass. They are compared to natural mulch. As a result, dangerous rotting does not occur. The following recommendations will help you minimize the risk to your own health and the “health” of the soil:

• stop using manure;
• if this does not work, then you need to take precautions;
• manure thin layer laid out on the site so as not to touch root system green spaces;
• to a lesser extent to negative aspects Raspberries and currants are susceptible to manure;
• within a few days, decomposed manure undergoes enzymatic decomposition - a process catalyzed by the microflora contained in the soil;
• if the gardener refrains from adding chemicals, then he will have a safe and high-quality humic fertilizer on his site.

Organic mulch is a safe alternative to manure. The choice here is unlimited. The only caveat is to use “thick” layers. Recommended thickness is 4-5 cm or more. As a result, the gardener will receive good harvest without the risk of developing pathogenic flora.

On a note!

It is prohibited to store manure in a large pile. In any weather, it will become a huge biohazard bomb.

Choosing the right mulch

The focus is on materials of organic origin. The following options are popular:

• husk;
• husk;
• chaff;
• leaves;
• grass.

The easiest way is to find sawdust, which is inexpensive. Skeptics will say that most of the options listed above will increase soil acidity. In fact, it all depends on the method of application. Mulch is placed on the surface of the soil rather than buried. The second nuance is that the oxidation process is started by their mushrooms. They are found in the soil. We can say that oxidation is a natural process.

Immediately after adding sawdust or other mulch, worms and microbes will start their “meal”. Biologists have determined that the listed gardener’s assistants are like “eating.” The only “but” is that the end product of the activity of microbes and worms will become dangerous or safe substances. The result depends on the choice of the gardener. Botanists recommend making a choice in favor of processes that occur in natural conditions.

To get strong tomato bushes and a rich harvest, it is recommended to use compost. This is a natural fertilizer...

After analyzing the main reasons that undermine soil health, you can move on to finding ways to solve the problem:

• It is advisable to maintain the garden under “tinning” - it is enough to mow everything that grows there once every six months to get high-quality soil;
• weeds are removed no more than once every 8 months;
• representatives cereal crops and clover is mowed without regard to deadlines;
• the grass that has been mowed is left on the site - it will serve as a nutritious diet for beneficial bacteria and worms;
• up to 4 small pieces of earth are left on the site, on which plants useful for the gardener are located - over time, they will spread the seeds in the surrounding area, which will improve the condition of the soil;
• beds of some crops are limited by boards or slate from beds with other crops - a simple tip will minimize the likelihood of stepping on one part of the planting while processing another.

On a note!

The space between the rows is sprinkled with a 5-centimeter layer of sand or sawdust - it will become easier to move around the garden.

Proper soil care

Gardeners who have excessively loamy soil on their plot add biocompost. The recommended dosage is 1 kg for every 1 m2. It is prepared as follows:

• choose a garden area that is located in the shade;
• a biofactory is being formed here;
• mix any organic matter with loamy soil in a ratio of 2:1;
• add 500 ml of water to the mixture;
• add up to 30 worms - choose dung and earthworms;
• The pile is covered with thick oilcloth.

The gardener's task is to maintain the activity of the biological factory. It's about about adding soil and organic matter. It is brought in only from the side, not from above. As a result, worms and beneficial bacteria will be comfortable throughout the year.

When the vegetables have grown

Active vegetation often leads to accelerated drying of the soil. Several things will help slow down the process. practical advice:

• a thick layer of sawdust is poured between the rows - a simple manipulation that will eliminate the need for frequent watering;
• in the forest they collect several dozen earthworms and meadow soil;
• bring them to the site and lay them out evenly on the site where there is a layer of mulch;
• after a few hours, the gardener’s natural helpers will populate the area.

Beneficial bacteria and worms will take over further work. The gardener's task is not to disturb them. After 1-2 months, there will be no traces of pathogenic microorganisms left on the site. The nature of a way to solve many problems on your own. The key to success will be healthy soil microflora.

Gardeners who thoughtlessly use agricultural techniques risk destroying the fertile layer. Excessive application of fertilizer and frequent digging, improper watering, and use of pesticides are a small part of the factors that lead to dire consequences. Attention to detail will help prevent the development of irreversible changes. As soon as a gardener smells rot or sees traces of mold, action must be taken immediately.

It’s worth starting with the substances used. Humus is a source of problems for green spaces and living beings. It contains an excessive amount of pathogens that cause deadly diseases. The second rule is that they rely on beneficial bacteria and worms. Natural gardener helpers will quickly solve many problems, without risk to humans. When choosing worms, preference is given to local populations. Imported worms are less effective in restoring soil health. The third rule concerns the use of manure, which is alien to nature. Instead of the mentioned source of “contamination”, preference is given to a safe fermentation process.

Gardeners spend a huge amount of time, effort and money every year to get a high harvest. But often their efforts are negated by small, invisible pathogens.

Green manure is used - crops that are planted not to produce a harvest, but to improve the condition of the soil. It could be mustard, oats. They are sown during harvesting and wait until the seedlings grow. The seeds should not ripen. Plants are mowed and embedded in the soil.

In order to disinfect the soil, it is laid in a stack about 3 m wide and up to 1.5 m high. During the laying process, it is filled with feces or liquid manure. Acidic soil is limed by adding about 4 kg of lime per 1 m2. Once a year the pile is shoveled. In two to three years, weed seeds and bacteria mostly die. In order to get rid of white rot and clubroot, you need to wait 4 years. The method is intended for processing a small amount of soil.

Thermal disinfection is carried out for soil intended for cultivation.

IN Lately methods are becoming popular. Disinfection is carried out by adjusting the ratio of beneficial and pathogenic microorganisms. This is a whole complex of activities: sowing, introducing quality, obtained in the usual way or as a result of using the Shine product.

Biological method

They disinfect the soil with biological fungicides that reduce the number of pathogens.

Microbiological preparations Fitosporin, Trichodermin, Alirin B, Baikal EM-1 are introduced.

They remove the so-called soil fatigue, which occurs as a result of growing the same crops on the site (in a greenhouse, greenhouses), and help increase the number of types of beneficial microorganisms. The result of their vital activity is an increase in the amount of easily digestible compounds of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. At the same time, the toxicity of aluminum and iron is reduced.

Preparations for soil disinfection:

• The area is treated with phytosporin in autumn or spring. You can add 2 more treatments, bringing total up to 4 Consumption – 6 ml per bucket of water. This is enough to process 1 m2. Sick plants are watered with a solution at the root (1 liter per bush).
• Trichodermin contains spores and mycelium of the fungus Trichoderma lignorum, as well as biologically active products of its vital activity. They suppress pathogenic fungi that cause cancer and drying out of shoots. When preparing the soil for cultivation, mix the drug at the rate of 1 g per 1 liter of soil. The planted plants are watered with a solution of 100 ml of Trichodermin per bucket of water.
• Glyocladin is similar in its mode of action to Trichodermin. Fights pathogens of root rot, wilt, verticillium, and late blight. Removes soil toxicity after chemicals. Effective in restoring beneficial microflora. When planting plants, a Glyocladin tablet is applied to a depth of 1 cm. The soil around the plant is watered, and the drug tablet is placed near the roots of the plant. Cover with a thick layer of mulch. Water for several days to keep the soil moist. The drug acts at a depth of up to 10 cm, humidity is more than 60%. The temperature should be no lower than 14 and no higher than 27 degrees. Fungal spores settle on the roots of plants, intertwine with them, forming mycorrhiza. It enhances nutrition several times, transforming insoluble compounds into a form convenient for absorption. Supplies enzymes and biostimulants to the plant. All this works only if there is mulch. The first year the soil is cultivated 2 times, then once. The interval between the use of Glyokladin and Alirin-B is one to two weeks.
• Baikal EM-1 is used for prevention after harvesting and in the spring, a week before planting seedlings. To do this, half a glass of the product is diluted in a bucket of water. Apply 2.5 liters of the finished product per 1 m2.
• Alirin-B is used to combat root rot. Dissolve 1 tablet in 5 liters of water and water the plants. Fights pathogens of root rot. For prevention, take half the norm. Use Baikal EM-1 together with Alirin B or separately. Biological preparations should not be introduced together with chemical ones or immediately after them. You need to wait at least 2 weeks, otherwise their beneficial microorganisms will die.
• , help cleanse the soil. Planting on the site or spilling the soil with an infusion of these plants improves the condition of the soil.

It is impossible to say for sure which method is best. It is necessary to use agrotechnical, if necessary, biological, and, in extreme cases, chemical methods.

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