Many owners of apartments in Soviet-built buildings are to some extent lucky.

But all these options involve the use of materials that must be protected from the harmful effects of water and temperature changes. There is, however, moisture-resistant drywall.

But all other materials must be subjected to special treatment so that over time they do not collapse due to swelling or changes in geometric dimensions due to changes in temperature.

This can be achieved more easily when the pipes are closed once and for all. In this case, the temperature and humidity conditions on both sides are relatively constant, which means that its impact on the materials is minimized.

But the problem is that there are times in life when you need to gain access to the riser pipes.

In addition, at the points of connection to risers internal wiring Shut-off valves are usually installed to be able to shut off the flow of water into the pipes when the tap or faucet needs to be replaced. When replacing a meter, you also have to turn off the water.

These conditions force us to install special hatches or doors in the structures covering the pipes, through which we can take readings from water meters and replace taps or water meters.

It is clear that the installation of such hatches in a structure made of, and even covered with ceramic tiles, is a rather difficult task.

But there is one material that allows you to solve all these problems quite simply. These are plastic panels.

Light in the literal sense and easy to work with, they are quite durable and chemically inactive. Plastic panels are quite affordable.

In addition, they themselves are an excellent finishing, decorative material. They do not need to be painted, pasted over or filmed, and a wide variety of sizes and colors allows you to choose a pattern that goes well with the pattern of the material with which the rest of the walls of the room are finished.

Range

Plastic panels are made from polyvinyl chloride, which is why they are also called PVC panels. In cross section they have a cellular structure.

What are the benefits of plastic panels:

• Air chambers give them soundproofing properties
• They also reduce the thermal conductivity of partitions made from these panels.
• Stiffening ribs give them mechanical strength
• PVC service life exceeds 20 years
• They are not at all afraid of water and sudden temperature changes.
• Do not support combustion and are absolutely safe for humans and the environment

The thickness of the panels is usually 10 mm, less often – 5 mm. They are available in width different sizes. Panels 10 cm wide are usually called lining. The color of the lining is usually white, and the length is 3 meters.

Panels with a pattern or single color are available in widths from 15 to 50 cm.

The most common sizes are 20–37 centimeters.

The length comes in 260, 270 and 300 cm.

The choice of size is one of the components of the answer to the question of how to cover the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels. The photo below shows only a small part color palette, in which PVC panels can be painted.

For decorative design Moldings are used in places where panels are attached around the perimeter or at joints and corners different shapes. Typically they have White color, which harmonizes perfectly with any color.

To work with plastic panels you do not need any special devices, the same tools that are used for metal processing are sufficient. The material of the panels makes it quite easy to give them any shape by heating.

They are easy to glue and weld. They can be used to decorate both walls and ceilings at any angle of inclination. And, if you competently and correctly prepare the frame around the pipelines and cover it with plastic panels, then you can only guess about the presence of pipes in the room.

Fastening elements

To construct the frame on which the PVC panels will be attached, you can use a wooden beam. But in such a damp room as a bathroom and toilet, the wood may rot over time and mold may appear.

In order to avoid this, it is necessary to treat with special solutions. This process is quite labor-intensive and dirty, and it does not always achieve the required degree of protection.

Fortunately, modern industry produces a wide variety of lightweight galvanized steel profiles and fastening elements for them. A special profile is perfect for mounting frames under plastic panels.

Its length is usually 3 or 4 meters. The transverse size can be very different, starting from 20 x 20 mm.

And the section itself can also have a simple “U”-shaped form, or a complex one, with “shelves” and “grooves” along the planes. For connection individual parts Manufacturers produce a variety of connecting parts for each type of profile.

But the most common fastener is the suspension.

In the “working” state it is bent in the shape of the letter “P”. The upper “shelf” is used to attach fasteners to any load-bearing structure, and rows of holes on the “legs” allow you to fix the profile at any distance from the base.

You can fasten the frame elements to the walls and to each other using dowels and self-tapping screws.

Manufacturing jobs

Sometimes, when asking oneself the question of how to cover the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, a person does not quite know where to start and what one might encounter in the process of performing this simple task. Let's try to consider everything in order.

First of all, before you start hiding pipes, you need to determine the condition of these same pipes. It may well turn out that they require replacement.

And it is better to solve this problem before they are closed. Otherwise, according to the law of meanness, they can show their “character” immediately, as soon as the last part of the skin hiding them is installed.

This is especially necessary to do if the water supply pipes are still old, steel, and the sewer riser is. And although cast iron is a fairly strong and reliable material, a meticulous inspection may reveal cracks and chips, which can cause many problems over time.

Therefore, it is best to replace the pipes of all risers with pipes from new ones modern materials, at least within the limits of your floor. The best thing to do is negotiate with your neighbors and replace the risers along the entire height of the house.

You should be prepared for this and don’t be surprised or upset. The author knows of a case when a seemingly harmless desire to move to a new place electrical outlet in one it led to a complete redevelopment two-room apartment, extension of the loggia (the apartment is on the first floor) and installation of suspended ceilings.

In the combined bathroom, all the plumbing was replaced with new ones and the location was changed; in the kitchen, the sink took the place of the so-called “Khrushchev refrigerator.”

Wooden window blocks gave way to plastic ones, and the piping for hot and cold water supply, as well as the sewerage system, was made according to a new scheme, which required opening up the entire floor in the bathroom and kitchen.

After the issue with the pipes is resolved, it will be necessary to determine what the structure covering them will look like. The pipes themselves do not take up much space.

It all depends on the size and location where they are located. The riser can be installed in a corner, or it can be placed somewhere in the middle. Pipes horizontal wiring usually placed closer to the floor, one above the other.

It is necessary to take into account the location of shut-off valves, hot water meters and cold water, as well as places where pipes connect to each other, in order to provide hatches for access to these places.

If the riser is placed in a wall with a width less than , you can, without bothering yourself, cover them with a false wall.

Or you can triple the “L”-shaped structure, which will hide the pipes behind it, and mount it in the resulting niche open shelves or a cabinet with doors for storing various toiletry items.

When the wall is wide and the pipes are in the corner, you can cover them with the same “L”-shaped structure or hide them inside a triangle, where the legs will be sections of the main wall, and the hypotenuse will be the false wall. The riser, located closer to the middle of the wall, is closed with a “U”-shaped box.

To cover horizontal pipes, you can install a rectangular “threshold” along the wall. Alternatively, the design of this “threshold” can be raised to the level of the washbasin, and shelves can be installed in the empty space above the pipes.

After thinking about these points, you can be concerned about the presence building materials and tools:

• PVC panels and moldings
• Profile
• Fasteners, hangers
• Self-tapping screws, dowels
• Hacksaw or grinder
• Hammer drill and screwdriver
• Hammer, carpenter's knife and metal scissors
• Tape measure, level, plumb line
• Corner, ruler, paper and pencil

• First you need to decide on the profile size. You need to understand that the plastic panels will also adhere to the “shelf”. Therefore, the higher the “legs”, the greater the volume of the structure, which means its perimeter will be larger. In this case, it may turn out that even 1 extra centimeter will force you to buy an additional PVC panel.
• Now we need to determine the place where the pipes protrude most deeply into the room. Using a plumb line, this point is fixed on the floor. It will be a rapper. It makes it easier to calculate and mark out the entire structure. Everyone knows how pipes vibrate when someone turns on a faulty faucet. If the frame fits closely to the pipes, then the entire plastic wall will vibrate. Therefore, you need to step back from the benchmark 1 cm towards the intended plane of the fence, then add the height of the profile and the thickness of the PVC panel. The resulting mark will indicate the location of the front surface of the false wall or box. Next, using a tape measure and a ruler, draw a plan for the fence on the floor. At the junctions with existing walls Using a level and a plumb line, a line is drawn on them where the fence wall under construction will be connected to them. Then the same plan is drawn on the ceiling as on the floor. The marking is ready.
• The markings on the floor are the perimeter. By dividing the learned value by the estimated width of the PVC panel, you can find out the number of panels that need to be purchased. As mentioned above, they are different widths, so it will be easy to calculate the required quantity so as to minimize unnecessary costs. The length of the panels is determined by the distance between the floor and ceiling. All that remains is to go to the building materials stores and buy everything you need.
• The profile is attached to the walls, floor, etc. using dowels. Here you must remember to step back from the “face” to the pipes by 12-14 mm, depending on the thickness of the plastic panels and taking into account the thickness of the molding wall. Now, using metal scissors or a grinder, you need to cut out required length jumpers and screw them with self-tapping screws at one end to the profile fixed on the walls, and at the other to the profile installed in the places where the corners of the box will be. If the box is in the shape of the letter “G”, then the frame is ready. If it is in the shape of the letter “P”, then all that remains is to cut and install jumpers between the outer corners of the box. When installing jumpers, you must not forget about the places where doors or hatches will be installed for access to taps and meters.
• The “starter” molding is screwed to the “starter” molding with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter.
• The outer corner is formed as an “outer corner.” The inner corner, if there is one, is “ internal corner" If it is necessary to join the panels, connecting molding is used.
• Now all that remains is to carefully insert the PVC panels into the grooves of the moldings. You can cut off the excess with a hacksaw or grinder. If you suddenly want to mount the panels not vertically, but horizontally, then it is preferable to insert them into place so that the panels point up and the groove points down. This will prevent water from getting into the groove and causing mold to form there.
• Think over the design of hatches or doors and their fastening yourself. This could be a door with awnings or a hatch with magnets.

That's all, however. You can remove the trash and admire the work done. Pipes no longer spoil the appearance of the bathroom.

How to cover the riser with panels - in the video:

Visible water and sewer pipes in the bathroom look unsightly. You can greatly transform a room if you hide them. The article presents several ways to close plumbing pipes in a toilet.

Moisture-resistant drywall

This material is excellent for performing construction work, including for masking pipes in the toilet. Plasterboard partition easy to install and dismantle. This means that access to plumbing communications will not be completely blocked by it. If repairs are required, simply dismantle the partition and then return it to its place.

You can also make a camouflage box from plasterboard with a special hole. Then there will be a door for pipes in the toilet, and there will be no need to dismantle the structure if the riser breaks down.

Advantages of drywall:

• Simplicity of finishing;
• Low price;
• Moisture-repellent properties;
• Possibility of subsequent decoration;
• Easy to install.

For installation plasterboard box the following is required:

• the material itself;
• reinforced mesh;
• metal profiles;
• door;
• various connecting elements;
• putty mixtures, as well as tools for their dilution and application;
• materials for decoration.

Installation of a plasterboard box for covering pipes

To install a box for closing pipes in a toilet, you first need to mark out the parts that will be used in its manufacture. It is worth considering that the distance from the pipes to the walls of the product should be 5 centimeters. You need to install a profile on the wall of a toilet with a riser; for this you will need a hammer drill with dowels.

Then you need to make markings on the ceiling and floor to secure the profiles. It is necessary to screw a corner structure with stiffening ribs to them. All this is connected using extra parts of the profile. All that remains is to construct a passage for the door and install it.

At this point, the manufacture of the box is completed; all that remains is to finish it. Instead of self-creation blanks, you can buy ready-made in the store. The purchased box just needs to be installed and decorated.

Plastic panels

When implementing this method, it is worth considering that the thickness of the plastic panels in the toilet should start from 8 millimeters. Otherwise, the design will not be reliable and durable enough. When calculating the number of panels needed to cover the body, you need to add another 15 percent of the material in reserve.

False wall to hide pipes in the toilet

Installing a false wall is in a simple way how to hide pipes in a toilet. The implementation of this method is similar to the very first one, but in this case a significant part of the room space is taken away. This problem can be solved by installing a wall-hung toilet in the toilet. Then all the fasteners and the tank are hidden behind the structure, and the pipes are masked along with them.

You can provide special shelves for storing things in the false wall. It will also be possible to make a hole in it under the door so that there is free access to utilities.

Plumbing roller shutters

You can close the pipes in the toilet with roller shutters. In addition to masking communication systems, this method It also allows you to decorate the room, it will become more stylish. In addition, access to the pipes will remain free, because the roller shutters can be opened at any time. This means that if a breakdown occurs, the structure will not need to be dismantled.

The box for the roller shutters is fixed under the ceiling, they are wound on a shaft. This design takes a minimum amount free space premises. A regular latch is used as a lock when the canvas is lowered.

The peculiarity of sanitary roller shutters is that they are made for use in rooms with high humidity and withstand temperature changes well. In addition, they provide sound insulation.

You can find roller shutters in various colors on sale. Therefore, you will be able to choose a product that fits perfectly into the interior of the room. There are models of roller shutters with mechanical or electric drive.

Plumbing blinds

The difference between sanitary blinds and ordinary ones is the presence of a moisture-resistant coating. The product is sold in various colors. In addition, the blinds can be painted independently to match the tone of the room, applied with an image or sealed with a film coating and then varnished.

Chipboard and tiles

Now let's look at the problem of how to close the plumbing pipes in the toilet with using chipboard and tiles.

Required tools and materials:

• Construction pencil;
• Finishing materials;
• Nails;
• Roulette;
• Adhesive mortar or cement mixture;
• Drill, as well as several attachments;
• Chipboard with a thickness of ten millimeters;
• Wood scraps;
• Hacksaw.

The principle of manufacturing the structure

The length of the particle board should be comparable to the height of the bathroom wall. Its width is calculated from the distance from the side wall and the section of the pipe at the greatest distance. 10 millimeters must be added to this distance as a reserve. All measurements are taken using a tape measure.

The front side of the riser is masked with a board, which must first be cut according to measurements. Next, you need to mark the width of the side surface. To do this, the board is applied to the place, the contours are highlighted. Then the product will need to be secured with screws or nails.

When two boards are completed, a corner structure is made from them. Fastening is done using 70 mm nails. IN main board it is necessary to make a hole for the hose to pass to the toilet barrel. Its diameter is approximately 50 mm.

Now you can proceed to securing the structure of two boards. It is temporarily attached to the riser, the joints are marked with a pencil. At the marking site with an indentation of 10 mm, you need to drill four holes on the walls. Their depth is 40 mm. Leave the indents the same. The holes should be drilled at a slight angle; they are intended for wooden plugs.

Now you need to thread the hose for the barrel into the hole in the main board. Then the structure is already fixed with nails driven into the plugs. When the masking gutter is installed, all that remains is to decorate it. The easiest way is to plant tiles or ceramics on cement mixture. PVA glue is also suitable for fastening.

You can also make a masking box from wood or plywood. Its dimensions are selected based on the niche in the toilet. The peculiarity of this hiding option is that all elements of the riser will be hidden, but they will have access to carry out repair work.

Plastic panels are becoming increasingly popular due to the combination of their positive qualities, which suits most consumers. This includes aesthetic appearance, a variety of colors and patterns, easy cleaning, practicality and affordable cost. This type of finishing is especially suitable for places that require compliance with strict sanitary standards, such as the bathroom and toilet. In addition to bathrooms, PVC panels are also used to decorate the walls and ceilings of hallways, as well as balconies and loggias.

Finishing the toilet with plastic panels is the best option for those apartment owners who are undertaking renovations, but are faced with budget limitations. There is a double benefit here: in addition to the fact that the material belongs to a generally accessible price category, its installation can be done on our own. Absence of necessity additional costs inviting craftsmen is also an important advantage of plastic panels over other types of finishing.

How to choose high-quality plastic panels?

Due to the fact that this finishing material is in great demand, it is offered for sale in a wide variety. At the same time, the assortment of stores may contain both high-quality products and products from not particularly conscientious manufacturers. Just looking at plastic panels with the naked eye, it is quite difficult to determine their quality, so when choosing this material it is recommended to follow some tips. They will allow you to choose a material that will correspond to the declared characteristics and service life.

• Material used for manufacturing finishing panels, must contain additives that improve the elasticity of products. Thanks to them, the panels bend relatively easily and are quite difficult to accidentally damage by careless movement. If the plastic is fragile and loses its strength and shape when pressed or with a slight impact, then these are low-quality panels. They will not last long, and the finished walls will quickly lose their respectable appearance during use.

— Try pressing on the edge of the panel with two fingers. Internal stiffeners should not bend or deform, and visible dents on the surface are unacceptable.

A high-quality panel, when compressed with your fingers, should not be dented, and the internal stiffeners should not be deformed

— You should try to bend the mounting strip of plastic located along the edge of the panel and forming a docking lock. The material is not something that should not break off - in high-quality panels this strip should return to its original state, without leaving a mark along the bend line.

Prices for plastic panels

plastic panels

— It is necessary to inspect the outer plane of the panel very carefully. Through upper layer The plastic should not be visible or the internal stiffeners should protrude, that is, the surface should be smooth and uniform.

• Plastic should not emit unpleasant chemical odors. If they are present, then it is better to discard such panels immediately. Surely the manufacturer, in order to minimize the cost of production, used low-quality raw materials or violated the established production technology. During operation, such finishing will emit fumes that are harmful to the health of the residents of the apartment or house. Such panels, without any doubt, should be classified as low-quality products.
• PVC panels are produced in various widths. For small room For a toilet, it is not profitable to purchase panels that are too wide, as a lot of waste will remain. However, a lot depends on the specific dimensions of the panels themselves, the toilet, and the need for installation decorative box to hide communications from other specific conditions. If the owner has spatial imagination, then he will be able to imagine in advance what width of the panels will be optimal.

• When choosing a finishing material, it is recommended to without any hesitation request from the seller a certificate that indicates the manufacturer and indicates the compliance of the panels with all technical, sanitary and fire safety standards. If the personnel of the retail outlet cannot or refuses to provide certification documentation for the products sold, then the right decision will contact another hardware store.

Preparation for finishing work

In order for the work on finishing the toilet room to be successful, it is necessary to carefully prepare for it. Before the installation itself, you will need to take measurements and purchase necessary materials, prepare necessary tools, perform some measures to treat wall surfaces.

Taking measurements and purchasing materials

The first step is to take measurements of the room. The goal is to determine the area of ​​surfaces to be finished and the amount of finishing material. It is very important to immediately calculate the number of fitting profiles that will be required:

— for the design of internal and external corners;

— for finishing the junctions of plastic lining to the flow line and floor;

- for installation of cabinets, doors, inspection windows - if this is intended in the finishing plan.

The choice of these profile elements will depend on design idea, the size of the room, as well as the technique of installing panels in certain areas.

It is recommended to purchase 15% more of the finishing material itself, that is, plastic panels, than the area measurements showed - some will definitely go into scraps, and in addition, the possibility of accidental damage or an incorrect cut cannot be ruled out, especially if there is insufficient experience in carrying out such work.

• You will need material for installing the sheathing. Since the toilet usually has small area, the owners have to save every centimeter. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a metal profile or wooden slats for the frame with a cross-sectional size of 20 × 50 mm. The number of slats can be easily calculated locally, based on the height and width of the walls, keeping in mind that the guide battens should be positioned in increments of 500÷600 mm. In addition, the sheathing elements for the decorative box hiding the pipes (if it is planned), as well as for the ceiling frame (if paneling is planned there too), are calculated separately.

To fix the beam on the wall, you will need dowels with such a length that they enter the wall 50÷60 mm. Their number is also determined by the step with which the guide battens will be fixed with their help. Usually it is 450÷500 mm.

• To secure the plastic panels to the frame, you need to prepare self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long (depending on the type of sheathing - wood or metal). When installing panels according to wooden slats often used and construction stapler with staples 10÷12 mm.
• In the case where the walls are perfectly smooth (which is extremely rare even in panel houses), you can save space and do without lathing at all. In such conditions, panels can be glued directly to the surface of the walls. For such installation, glue such as “liquid nails” or even one of the tile adhesives is used.
• If used wooden sheathing, then it would be useful to purchase a means for pre-treatment of structural parts, which will protect them from rotting.
• You will need a primer for the ceiling and walls of the toilet. It will increase the strength of the finished surfaces, reduce the likelihood of mold colonies or insect nests appearing in closed space between the main wall (ceiling) and the finishing material.

Tools for installation work

To carry out preparatory and finishing works You will need to prepare a certain set of tools.

• with a set of bits.
• A hammer drill or electric drill with a perforation function.
• Drills for wood and concrete of different diameters.
• Electric or manual jigsaw.
• Metal scissors, if a metal profile will be used in the design.
• Hammer.
• Construction (stationery) knife.
• Tape measure and construction square.
• Pencil and marker for marking.
• Construction stapler.
• Building level with vertical and horizontal indicator.
• To prepare wall surfaces, you may need spatulas, a hair dryer, a roller and a brush for applying primer.

When everything necessary for work is ready, you can proceed to preparing the room for the installation process.

Preparing room surfaces for finishing

Preparing the surfaces of the toilet room for finishing with plastic panels is as follows:

• To prevent the creation of a favorable environment for the appearance of insects and mold stains under the finishing material, in an enclosed space, it is recommended (if any) to remove peeling paint. A metal spatula is used for cleaning.

If it is necessary to free the walls from wallpaper, and they are securely fixed to the surface, then it is recommended to apply it to them using a roller. warm water, and this needs to be done several times. In those areas where the wallpaper begins to warp from moisture, you can begin removing it.

• It is not necessary to completely remove the paint; the main thing is to remove it in those areas where it has peeled off from the wall surface.
• Next, the cleaned walls are marked and at the same time the number and height or length of the sheathing slats are determined. Here it is necessary to clarify that if the lining panels are planned to be installed vertically, then the timber under it is fixed horizontally at a distance of 600 mm from each other. In the case of horizontal installation of the finishing material, the frame guides are fixed vertically to the wall. Be sure to install the sheathing parts at the bottom of the wall, 20–30 mm from the floor and along the top of the wall along the line of fastening the sheathing under the ceiling sheathing or at the junction of the wall and ceiling.

• If the sheathing will be mounted from wood, then the next step is to prepare the frame slats. They are cut to size and then processed, and all surfaces need to be processed, including the end sides, that is, the cuts. After applying the composition, they must be left until completely dry. This work is best done on the balcony, where there is access to air, and the space is slightly larger than the area of ​​the toilet.

• While the wooden frame elements are drying on the balcony, you can begin antiseptic treatment of the walls and ceiling of the toilet. Priming is done using a roller with a fluffy attachment or a wide brush. IN hard to reach places A narrower brush may be required.

The primer is absorbed and dries quickly enough, within a few hours, so there will be enough time to apply two layers of this composition and wait for them to dry completely to guarantee.

Primer prices

primer

• The primer can be transparent or opaque. If a thick white composition is chosen, then marking the walls should be done after the treated surfaces have dried.
• If during the renovation it is planned to replace the toilet, then it is more advisable to dismantle the old one before fixing the sheathing.

Wall cladding with plastic panels

When the site for further installation is completely ready, and the marking lines are clearly visible on it, you can proceed first to fastening the sheathing, and then to the finishing material itself.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is always to attach the guides to flat sections of the walls, and only after that are vertical and horizontal frames built around the areas where communications pass, as well as protruding corners. In the slats (beams), at a distance of 500÷600 mm from each other, using an electric drill and a wood drill, holes are drilled through which the frame elements will be fixed to the wall. The holes must have a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the dowel.
	Next, the timber with the holes is applied to the line marked on the wall, and through the hole located approximately in the middle of the guide (along the length), a drill with a concrete drill is used to mark the location of the attachment. Then the beam is removed, and the hole is deepened to the length of the dowel.
	After this, the beam is placed back against the wall and a dowel with a screw installed in it is driven through it into the hole in the wall. First, only one fastener is driven in so that the beam can be leveled.
	Next, the timber is leveled to the building level and the remaining points of attachment to the wall are outlined, the corresponding holes are drilled, and dowels are driven into them. Similarly, on flat areas of the wall, all load-bearing elements battens.
	If, when marking, distortions are found on the surface of the wall, then the sheathing is leveled using additional pads installed between the beam and the wall.
	Quite often in the layout of old houses in the bathrooms there is a window in the upper part of the wall for natural light. If you do not plan to use this opening as a niche-shelf, then the framing parts (platbands) are removed from it, and frame guides can be attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
	This illustration clearly shows how guide battens should be secured to the smooth walls of this small room.
	Probably, in order not to disrupt the demonstration of the sequence of work, we should briefly consider the dismantling and installation of the floor ceramic tiles. So, after fixing the sheathing elements, the old covering is removed from the floor. To do this, you can use a hammer drill with a certain attachment in the form of a chisel. Along with the tiles, the mortar on which it was laid is also removed. After cleaning the floor construction waste, the surface must be cleaned as much as possible from various protrusions. If necessary, the floor is leveled with a self-leveling compound.
	The next stage is the construction of a sheathing for a decorative box around a vertically extending sewer riser, as well as running along the back wall of the toilet sewer pipe. This frame element can be made in different ways. In the illustration shown, it is made of short lengths of timber, joined at right angles, and fixed to straight sections of sheathing walls.
	The frame of the decorative box can also be constructed from metal profile. Installed vertical racks and are rigidly fastened together by horizontal jumpers. The design is derived from the shape of a communication unit, consisting of a sewer and water riser.
	The jumpers are made from the same metal profile, fixed from the inside of the frame. The frame of the box is mounted and screwed to a beam fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws.
	This version of the box frame, built from a vertical beam, which is fastened together by horizontal jumpers and connected to the sheathing fixed to the wall, is a more rigid and reliable structure. In addition, it will be more comfortable to attach finishing material to wooden guides.
	This version of the box is especially convenient if pipes also run along the side wall, and meters for hot and cold water are installed in them. The horizontal sheathing is connected to the beam on the wall and the frame of the vertical box using self-tapping screws, and, if necessary, for greater rigidity, also using metal corners.
	Another option for the design of a box made of a metal profile and timber. In this case, the timber is a material that imparts rigidity to the frame, and the metal profile is more plastic than wood. You can cut it and construct a more compact box from it by slightly cutting off the corner. This is especially true when connections at angles other than straight are required.
	The illustration shows what this version of a box frame looks like without finishing with decorative panels. This design is well suited for cladding in which a corner fitting will not be used - the panel will smoothly bend horizontally installed elements metal sheathing.
	A horizontal box frame structure along the back wall of the room, above the sewer pipe, is best done together with the entire sheathing. However, some craftsmen work according to their own installation system and prefer to install it after the finishing material has already been attached to the main frame.
	This frame is made from wooden beam, necessarily treated with antiseptic impregnation. The front vertical side of this frame is the frame onto which the decorative trim will be attached.
	Another version of the frame, which is made of a metal profile. It can be called more acceptable in this case, since the structure will be located near pipes and plumbing fixtures, on which condensation moisture may appear due to temperature changes. However, it should be remembered that it is more convenient to mount the panels on wooden blocks, so wooden slats are often screwed on top of the metal.
	When the floor area is prepared and limited to horizontal and base vertical frame, you can proceed to tiling the surface. The first step is to try on the central row of tiles - it should be placed strictly in the center of the room, at the same distance from the walls.
	Using a marker, guide lines are drawn along the edges of the laid tiles, along which the finishing material will be laid.
	Next, according to the markings made, the tiles are laid on tile adhesive. To maintain a uniform seam width, special plastic calibration crosses are used.
	When laying a tile covering, its surface must be constantly controlled with a building level so that it remains in a horizontal plane. The illustration shows a finished, tiled floor surface with the tile joints already grouted. The floor is finished - you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels.
	Now, before installation begins, the panels are adjusted in length and width, according to the location of the middle border and its pattern (if there is one).
	It is more difficult to match panels with single fragments of a pattern, parts of which are located on different panels and, when joined, are assembled into a whole element. To make the decoration look neat and aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to accurately combine floral or geometric patterns, as well as border lines.
	Installation of the trim on the sheathing can be carried out using fitting corner profiles or without their use. Starting guides are required in any case, since without them general form the finishing will look sloppy. Are fixed plastic profiles to the sheathing beam using staplers. Fixation is carried out in increments of 150÷200 mm.
	Profiles are produced only in white, so they are not suitable for all colors of finishing materials, and that is why some craftsmen prefer to do without them in some cases. This photo shows an option for joining two panels in the corner of the room, which fit perfectly to each other without the use of corners.
	If the decision is made to abandon the corner profiles, then the first panel, which is installed on the frame sheathing of the box, is first fixed with “liquid nails” and then screwed with 15÷20 mm self-tapping screws with wide heads.
	The installation of panels begins from the corner of the room, and the verticality of the first panel in the row, before its final fastening, is carefully verified to the building level. Therefore, first the self-tapping screw is screwed into the sheathing beam in the middle part of the panel height, and the edge is adjusted to the level. Well, then the panel is finally fixed to the remaining elements of the sheathing. The evenness and neatness of the entire wall cladding will depend on the correct installation of the first panel. If the panels are installed unevenly, then the existing pattern on their surfaces may not match.
	If one of the walls has a completely flat surface, and the panels will be installed on it without lathing, then they can be glued using “liquid nails” or with cement-based tile adhesive.
	“Liquid” nails are applied to the wall in strips 10÷15 mm thick. If tile adhesive is used, it is spread with a notched trowel with a ridge height of 5 mm over the entire surface under the panel.
	If a whole panel falls at the junction of sheathing areas that make up different planes, then it is first joined to a previously fixed panel without fixation, and then the cut line is measured in place. This process needs to be done in this way because the outer corner may not be even enough. It happens that after cutting out the excess part of the panel exactly along the measured lines (without real adjustment “in place”, focusing solely on the results of linear measurements), its edge in one place may coincide with the corner protrusion, but not in another, so it will be damaged. After cutting out the excess fragment, the panel is fixed to the sheathing.
	The outer corner can be closed with a regular corner, which is glued to “liquid nails”. Another option is to disguise it with the so-called outer corner molding, which has special grooves. on their internal surfaces Glue is applied, and then the edges of the joining panels are inserted into the grooves.
	Pipes located on the side walls are covered with short sections of panels. Often craftsmen prefer to close them with sliding doors, which will be discussed later.
	If water meters are installed on one of the side walls, then they cannot be closed completely, so the craftsmen resort to two options - either a small window with an opening door, or sliding panels. The second method is more practical, as it allows you to control the entire space, and if any emergency situation, it can be eliminated without disassembling the entire structure.
	Sliding doors (there can be two or more of them) are made from ordinary panels. They are installed in profiles fixed along the top and bottom of the opening with two or three guide channels (grooves). The type of profile, of course, will depend on the number of doors, since each of them must have its own space for free movement.
	To make it easier to move such doors, ordinary internal plastic door handles are installed in them, which are carefully glued into the cut hole.
	The decorative box located behind the toilet, along the back wall, also needs to be covered with plastic lining panels of the required length. To keep the trim looking neat, starter molding is glued to the bottom timber of the front frame and then stapled and stapled into place.
	The next step is to cut out the cover for this box from the panel, try it on, determine the location of the outlet of the water connection hose to the drain tank, and cut a hole for it. Then “liquid” nails are applied to the beam, and the top panel of the decorative box is glued. In this case, it must first be installed and “packed” flexible liner(hose) for the drain tank, and thread it through the hole in the lid.
	Next, the necessary fragments are cut out of the panels for lining the front side of the box. This part is assembled into a single piece, tried on in place, and then a hole is marked on it for the outlet of the sewer pipe for connection to the toilet. After this, a cut is made in the middle of one or along the edges of two panels. In addition, the window is marked, which allows monitoring the condition of the pipes passing inside the box. The protruding edge of the lock is cut off from the extreme left or right panel so that it fits closely with the main wall decoration.
	The next step is to install the panels into the starting bottom bar and screw them to wooden elements boxes The joint between horizontal and vertical panels is covered decorative corner, which is glued to “liquid” nails. After this, the finished frame with the door is glued into the hole.
	Separately, it is necessary to say about the design of a vertical box using a wide 500 mm panel, since in this case there will be no need for auxiliary corners, and the design will look elegant. In order to see the necessary cutouts in the panel, which are made on its reverse side, this illustration, as an example, shows a small section of it mounted on racks metal frame boxes
	In order for this finishing option to look neat, the sides of the box are removed exact dimensions, that is, their width is measured. These parameters are then transferred to the back of the panel. The marking points will be the middle of the cut strip. 15 mm are measured from the marked points in both directions, that is, the distance for bending should be three channels between the ribs located inside the panel.
	After marking, lines are drawn along the entire length of the panel along which cuts are made using a utility knife. Only the back side of the panel is cut, while the front side remains intact. After this, the cut strip is completely removed along with the ribs, leaving 3÷4 mm of ribs on the back side of the front panel. This work is not very convenient to carry out, but it must be done very carefully without damaging the front surface of the panel.
	Once these cuts are made, the panel will easily bend along the intended lines. After attaching it to the frame of the box, you will get a neat finish without joints or corners.
	Moreover, in this option, all the corners of the box will be rounded, which will also add elegance to the interior design, especially if high-quality panels are selected.
	One more point that also needs to be clarified. If a shelf is mounted near the vertical box shown above, installed on top of the masking pipe of the rear box-shaped structure, then in order for the cut to be made accurately, first an exact pattern of smooth corner rotation is adjusted from paper. Then the template is laid on the panel from which the box lid will be cut, outlined, after which the necessary cutout is made along this line.
	Next, it is necessary to briefly consider the installation of the frame and the arrangement of the ceiling cladding with decorative panels. This work can be carried out during the installation of the main wall frame, or after covering the surface of the walls with plastic panels. The lathing can be attached directly to the main ceiling or to the walls in the form of a frame. In the latter case, the timber attached to the walls will become the basis of the suspended ceiling.
	The beam is mounted in the same way as the sheathing elements for wall cladding. It is fixed along the top line of the decorative finishing of the walls.
	In a toilet room, common in city apartments, a similar design may look like the one shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to apply glue and “liquid” nails to the lower part of the beam, onto which the starting profile is glued, into which the sheathing panels will be installed. The starting profile is attached to three walls of the room - on the side walls and on the one from which the installation of panels will begin. This can be either the back wall or the one in which the front door is located.
	The glued profile is additionally fixed to the beam using a stapler and staples, which are installed at a distance of 150÷200 mm from each other.
	Once the frame for the ceiling is ready, you can begin preparing and installing the ceiling panels. First, they are marked and cut into the required size.
	The edge of the first panel (mounting tenon) is cut off so that the panel fits tightly, throughout its entire thickness, into the starting profile. The panel is installed with its ends in the side profiles, and the side with the cut tenon - in the one that is fixed to the rear (or front) wall.
	The installed panel is screwed to the sheathing bars using self-tapping screws with wide heads.
	You need to immediately decide on the location of the recessed lamps, since it is much more convenient to install them at a time when the ceiling is not yet completely covered with cladding.
	To make holes in the ceiling lining for installation spotlights, a core drill is used, having a diameter corresponding to the size of their stem. For a small toilet room, one or two lamps will be enough. If its area is large enough, then three or four lighting elements are installed.
	Before installing the lamps in the sockets cut out in the panels, the power cables are connected to them.
	Lighting fixtures are installed in holes plastic trim, and then assembled into a single chain. Connection to the power supply should be made only after complete installation of all finishing.
	The problem is always installing the last panel in the finish. Each master chooses his own method of installation. In this case, it is proposed to make it slightly wider than the remaining distance - 10÷15 mm. Then, a starting profile is put on the edge, which will be fixed to the frame beam. Liquid nails glue is applied to the timber. After this, the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous cladding element, and its ends into the grooves of the side starting profiles. Well, the molding, put on its cut edge, is glued to a strip of “liquid nails” applied to the frame beam.
	Further, the lamps can be connected to a common electrical system apartments. The process of installing lighting elements and connecting them to the power supply, if there is not enough experience in electrical work, it is best to entrust it to an experienced specialist.
	If we're talking about about the toilet, then a few words need to be said about installing and attaching the toilet to the floor. First of all, this accessory is installed flush against the back wall or to a box mounted along it. In addition, during preliminary fitting, you need to make sure that the sewer pipe pipe is opposite the toilet outlet pipe.
	Next, use a marker to mark the exact location of the toilet on the tile, as well as the points for drilling holes to secure it.
	The next step is to temporarily remove the toilet to the side, and drill holes according to the marks to secure it. The depth of the holes must be at least 60÷70 mm, and their diameter must correspond to the size of the dowel that comes with the toilet.
	Next, plastic dowel plugs are driven into the holes in the floor. The toilet is being installed. The holes in its leg should line up with the holes in the floor. Often at this same stage it is necessary to immediately connect the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer pipe. Then, mounting screws with silicone gaskets are installed in the aligned holes, which will separate the ceramics from the metal. If you do not install gaskets, the toilet leg may crack when tightening the screws.
	It is also impossible to overtighten the mounting screws, as this will create tension in the material, and it may eventually crack or even chip. After tightening the fasteners, the caps of the fastening elements are closed with special masking caps, which are usually included in the kit supplied by the manufacturer to the toilet.
	After fixing and connecting the toilet to the sewer pipe, assembling the flush cistern and connecting the flexible supply line from the water supply to it, it is recommended to carefully fill the gap between the leg and the floor lining with sealant.

Installing a toilet is not an easy task

In the table above, a brief description of the toilet installation was given only to demonstrate the final stage of finishing the toilet. In reality, everything can be somewhat more complicated. Detailed information on how to independently comply with all the rules can be obtained from the corresponding publication on our portal.

Plastic ceiling for a toilet or bathroom - the optimal solution

This article also spoke only briefly about the ceiling. This is because detailed information about it is posted in another portal article specifically dedicated to this issue.

For those who have carefully read this publication, we hope it has become clear that finishing the toilet plastic lining- it’s not that difficult, so it’s quite possible to do it on your own, saving some money. The main thing is to take your time and always adhere to the folk wisdom “measure twice, cut once.” As a result, a “boring” toilet can turn into a cozy, visually beautiful, easy-to-clean room, as, for example, shown in the proposed video.

Video: how plastic panels can transform a standard toilet room in an apartment

When spending time in the bathroom, the question often arises: how to make it both beautiful and functional at the same time. When it comes to beauty, everything is clear; nothing better than ceramic tiles for the bathroom and toilet has yet been invented. The tiles have durability, water resistance, and excellent sanitary and hygienic qualities. Thanks to numerous manufacturers, there is a huge variety in the choice of color, size and shape of tiles. But in addition to being just a beautiful room, the bathroom also performs technical functions, and any equipment requires regular maintenance. Here the question arises of how to make access to pipes and plumbing communications convenient and beautiful at the same time. Often people sacrifice ease of maintenance for the sake of beauty. For example, they tightly seal the wall under the bathroom, leaving, at best, a small window opposite the siphon. As a result, any malfunction or blockage of the drain threatens a new major repair. A plumber may simply not be able to fix anything through a small window. You can see how we make a bathroom screen from tiles. All of the above also applies to the back wall behind the toilet in a toilet or combined bathroom. You can look down through a door or hatch, but you won’t be able to do anything. Any malfunction threatens the prospect of dismantling or destruction of the interfering structure. Finding the same tile for restoration will be very difficult. So, during a major renovation of a bathroom, it is better to take care in advance to ensure easy and painless access to the pipes. To maintain the overall appearance and style of the room, we will consider only methods using ceramic tiles:

• Make an opening door or hatch.
• Make an easily removable panel.
• A combination of these methods. As in our example, there is a door on top for frequent opening, and a panel on the bottom in case of an accident.

The tiles provide excellent access to communications and at the same time look very attractive without disturbing the design of the bathroom. But they are quite difficult to manufacture. The tiles are very heavy and the maximum permissible door dimensions are limited. Much easier to do removable panel from tiles. If access to pipes is not needed often, only in case of an emergency, then this best option. A removable panel can be made big size, because it will not be removed often, but only as a last resort. In terms of cost, it also comes out almost for nothing; the panel can be made from ordinary, or better yet, moisture-resistant plasterboard or gypsum board. There should be plenty of this goodness during the overhaul. We will make the removable panel behind the toilet easily removable, but it will look like a monolithic wall made of tiles.

How and from what to make a removable panel.

It is best to make the base of the panel from gypsum fiber board, as it holds its shape better. If the size of the panel is not very large, then it can be made of green, moisture-resistant plasterboard. To ensure that the panel does not deform during operation, several reinforcing guides can be screwed to the sheet from the inside of the sheet. To begin, we cut out a piece of drywall that is suitable in size. It should be easily installed in its place without clamping or distortion. We immediately cut out all the necessary holes for the pipes with some margin. Now you need to fasten the panel so that it holds well in place and can be easily removed if necessary. To do this, we screw sections of PP27x28 plasterboard guides to our sheet with self-tapping screws according to the diagram shown. We also attach the mating parts to the floor. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that during installation, the lower guide panels are put on those that are attached to the floor and hook onto them, preventing the panel from falling out from below. You can bend them slightly for adjustment. Then top part moves forward and is fixed with long self-tapping screws through the frame guide of the main wall, or the hatch frame. The removal procedure is the same in reverse order: unscrew the long fixing screws, pull the top of the panel towards you and move the lower guides out of engagement by moving upwards.

Scheme for making a removable tile panel.

Only after we are convinced that our panel can be easily and freely installed and removed can we cover it with tiles. We recommend using liquid nails or other plastic glue as glue to make the structure strong and lightweight. Leave slightly wider gaps at the edges of the panel tile joint. They can be closed later rubber seal or seal it for tiles if you plan to remove the panel only as a last resort.

The photo below shows some more removable tile panels combined with an aluminum hatch for access to the pipes.

Removable top and bottom tile panels.

Everyone liked the idea of ​​a lower removable panel for access to pipes so much that it got further development in the form of a removable top panel. Typically, access to the top of sewer risers is not required, but there are still cases when it is necessary. For example, it may happen that the house will still carry out major renovation and the old riser pipes will be replaced with new ones, then you will be asked to provide free access to the risers. If you have removable panels, this is easy to do and you don’t have to destroy or redo anything. This design provides the most complete access to pipes for repair and maintenance. Below are some examples from our practice. Removable top and bottom panels made of tiles in combined and separate bathrooms.

Among the abundance of solutions offered by designers and builders, it is sometimes quite difficult to choose an option that is not only beautiful and convenient for using the toilet for its intended purpose, but also suitable for storing all sorts of things. household chemicals on shelves arranged in the plumbing shaft for pipes:

The shaft still needs to install hot and cold water meters, distribution manifolds for water supply to bathroom and kitchen plumbing fixtures, it is possible to add filter flasks, and a water heater in case of shutdown hot water, and also find a place to store detergents and supplies of toilet paper:

In the process of implementing all these ideas, the second of the two main functions of this plumbing shaft is very often forgotten.

It is designed not only to accommodate pipes and other plumbing fixtures related to water supply and sewerage, but also to provide free access for inspection, repair and replacement of these plumbing fixtures if necessary.

I would like to do everything in such a way that inspection, repair or replacement can be done without completely destroying the finishing of the toilet room itself.

Repairing bathrooms nowadays costs a lot of money, and it can be a shame to destroy the finishing of a room in order to get to a burst toilet seat, a sewer pipe socket, a leaking fitting, or a place of pitting in water pipes.

Let's look at the most typical solutions from this point of view:

Yes, the design could be better, but the functionality is fully guaranteed. It will be necessary to put optional equipment- just throw out a few shelves and make room for them. The partition panel behind the toilet can be easily removed to gain access to the place where the toilet is connected to the sewer riser; there is no need to break anything.

But here it’s different:

The design is much better than in the first example, but the door is clearly small, and you can’t get into the shaft space behind the toilet without breaking the tiled wall.

It's much better thought out here, you'll agree. There is no need to break anything if necessary:

In this solution, the door is already quite large, but there are no shelves for all sorts of household items. If anything happens in the shaft below the drain button wall hung toilet, then you will have to break the tile:

Look at the installation carefully. Front view:

Back view:

There are enough places where there can be leaks, but there is no easy access to them with this partition option:

Yes, builders usually assure that everything will be done reliably, to last, using the most modern materials and components, no problems will arise.

But statistics, unfortunately, say otherwise; leaks and accidents happen quite regularly. And even if you don’t have them, who guarantees against leaks from above?

To access most repair operations with a toilet cistern in an installation, it is enough to remove the drain button located on the false wall. If problems arise below the place where the hand reaches through this hole, the wall will have to be broken.

Those who are still inclined to install a wall-hung toilet should remember that all the advantages that the installation gives to the interior can be immediately canceled out by the need to dismantle the end wall, behind which all engineering systems and communications are hidden.

In principle, the false wall can be made removable, as is sometimes done for floor-standing toilets:

However, for installations, the implementation of this solution is much more complicated than simply tiling a blank partition, and in my practice I have not seen such removable walls for wall-hung toilets.

But let's return to floor-standing toilets. Quite an interesting “furniture” solution:

All communications are hidden behind retractable cabinets and hanging cabinets.

And here the entire plumbing shaft is closed with roller shutters. Access to communications is fully provided.