A drainpipe is an element of an entire system that is responsible for draining melt and rainwater from the roof of a building. This design must be installed on any building. Pipes for water drainage can be attached to the outside of the walls, going down along the entire perimeter. Sometimes they are mounted in the internal cavity of a building, and the structure becomes invisible.

The type of gutter that is right for your home depends on several factors. It is about them that we will talk further.

Why are they installed?

Drainage systems need not be installed only if the house is one-story and has a fairly large area. But even under such conditions, it is necessary to extend the roof overhangs as much as possible so that they act as a drain. In all other cases, pipes are necessary because they protect the structure from the adverse effects of precipitation. In particular:

• unaesthetic stains on the facade, destruction and damage to finishing materials;
• destruction of the blind area and foundation due to constant erosion;
• distortion of the structure due to land subsidence;

• the appearance of cracks and irregularities in brickwork and a layer of plaster;
• wetting and deformation of wood;
• water getting into the seams between facade tiles;
• Wetting and damage to insulation and load-bearing walls due to moisture getting inside the curtain walls.

If you install a high-quality drainage system, then you can forget about all these consequences. Moreover, the modern market offers a huge selection of designs that differ in their cost, size, performance characteristics, external design and service life.

Features and elements

Gutters of any type have a similar design, even if they are made of different materials. Let us list the main elements that make up any modern drainage system:

• gutter– a horizontal channel of small diameter, which is installed along the edge of the roof and is used to direct the flow of water through funnels into the pipe;
• pipe– a vertical element necessary for draining water into special receivers;
• tees– drainage parts necessary for pipe installation;
• pipe connectors– additional element vertical design or gutters;
• brackets– used for attaching gutters to the roof;
• clamps– used to ensure reliable fastening of vertical pipe elements;
• knees (circles)– to bypass the drain and decorative elements facade;

As well as drainage funnels, gutter caps, ebb tides (marks), etc.

Classification

Drainpipes are divided according to several parameters.

• Section shape. Pipes come in round, square and rectangular cross-sections. The latter type is in particular demand due to its originality.
• Material of manufacture. The modern construction market offers gutters made of plastic, metal-plastic and metal. Metal products are galvanized, copper and copper with zinc-titanium coating, steel and steel with polymer coating.

Also, drainpipes differ in their dimensions.

Dimensions

The dimensions of pipes and gutters must comply with the current GOST 7623-84. According to this document, the diameter of the downspout differs depending on the size of the roof. Let's give a specific example (roof area - pipe diameter):

• up to 30 m2 – 80 mm;
• up to 50 m2 – 90 mm;
• more than 125 m2 – 100 mm.

There are also gutters different diameters. The most popular sizes are 10, 12, 12.5, 14, 15, 18, 20 centimeters. Optimal size gutters and pipes for your roof can be found in a special table of the state standard. The diameter of the pipes and the number of risers must be determined taking into account the area of ​​the slopes, the shape of the roof, and the approximate intensity of precipitation.

Metal and plastic: pros and cons

Metal gutters

Metal structures are divided into several categories, depending on the material of the pipes:

• Galvanized. They are suitable for installation in private homes, industrial facilities, prefabricated warehouses and utility buildings. Such pipes are characterized by low price and availability, but they quickly corrode. In addition, during rain and movement of water through galvanized pipes, it creates a large number of noise.
• Copper. Such pipes are practical, durable, aesthetically pleasing, and do not create much noise. However, over time, a patina forms on the copper surface, which significantly affects the appearance of the structure. In addition, the cost of copper products is quite high.

• Aluminum. This type of structure is characterized by durability, versatility, unpretentiousness in installation and operation. Since such metal is light in weight, the load on the facade remains minimal. Aluminum pipes are inexpensive and have a neat appearance.
• Aluzinc plated. Such structures consist of steel coated with aluzinc - a composition of silicon, zinc and aluminum. The result is aesthetic structures that are resistant to external influences. Their service life is at least 30 years.

In addition to the aluzinc film, a water-repellent polyurethane coating is applied to the structure on all sides, which protects the material from rusting. The surface of the pipes can be different, even imitate bronze, copper and other expensive metals.

The main disadvantage of metal drains is their high thermal conductivity. As a result, ice may form inside the pipes.

Plastic

This material is in great demand due to its low cost. In addition, plastic gutters have other advantages:

• variety of shapes and sizes when manufactured by extrusion;
• corrosion resistance;
• minimum weight;
• noiselessness;
• aesthetic appearance;
• ease of assembly.

Also, plastic structures go well with soft tiles and look much better than their metal counterparts. However, such drains have a number of disadvantages:

• not resistant to temperature changes;
• fade under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
• become brittle and brittle in the cold;
• easily deformed if externally damaged.

In this regard, it is better to use plastic gutters only inside buildings in regions with a temperate climate.

Metal-plastic

Due to their design characteristics, such drainage systems are usually called combined. They are made of galvanized steel, which is coated on both sides with a polymer layer. The result is a high-quality, durable, aesthetic and reliable design. However, the cost of such a product will be quite high.

If plastisol is used for coating, the pipes become resistant to rust and mechanical damage. And also the designs do not:

• deformed due to temperature changes;
• exposed to external influences, including ultraviolet radiation;
• create extraneous noise;
• require special care;
• form ice inside.

In addition, such designs have excellent external characteristics. They don't lose theirs aesthetically pleasing for a long time. Moreover, the thicker the spray layer, the better the quality.

Calculation and installation

You can install a drainage system in a private home with your own hands or with the help of professionals. In any case, the work begins with the calculation of all the necessary materials.

First of all, you need to purchase a ready-made drainage system. This will greatly facilitate the process of installing the structure, especially since modern hardware stores offer a huge selection of similar products. Depending on your preferences, choose a plastic or metal system that is electroplated.

To construct a drain you will need the following elements:

• gutters or trays - their standard length is 3 m;
• pipes for vertical drainage of rain and melt water 3 or 4 meters long;
• brackets for fixing trays;
• clamps for fastening pipes;
• funnels;
• knee;
• silicone sealant for treating joints of roof drainage elements.

You also need to prepare everything in advance necessary tools: tape measure, screwdriver, plumb bob, hacksaw.

It is better to use a regular hacksaw, since cutting plastic or metal drains with electric devices is not recommended.

We carry out the calculation required quantity elements.

• Trays. To accurately calculate the number of gutters required for a simple gable roof, you need to measure the length of the eaves and divide it by 3 (the length of the tray), and round the result up. When performing calculations, be sure to take into account that the trays are mounted at a slope of approximately 2-5 degrees and are inserted into each other to ensure maximum tightness of the structure. Thus, the connection is obtained with an overlap of 5-10 centimeters.
• Pipes. When calculating the diameter of the pipes, you should take into account the area of ​​the roof slope and the approximate volume of water that will pass through it. The larger the volume, the larger the diameter of the pipe. The same rule applies to trays. Let's look at examples of calculations for different cases when the area of ​​the slope:
  • less than 50 m2: pipe diameter – 75 mm, tray width – 100 mm;
  • 50-100 m2: pipe diameter – 87 mm, tray width – 125 mm;
  • more than 150 m2: pipe diameter – 100-120 mm, lot width – 190 mm.

In order to calculate the number of pipes needed, you need to measure the height from the ground to the eaves, multiply the result by 4 (the number of risers) and divide by 3 (the length of the product). If necessary, the number of pipes can be increased.

• Funnels. These structural links are installed in the corners of the building, which means that for a quadrangular house with two pitched roof You will need at least 4 funnels. If the eaves of the structure are longer than the standard one, you can install several additional funnels (at least 1 per 10 m gutter) to reduce the load on the roof.
• Brackets, clamps, elbows. Brackets for trays are installed every 50-60 cm. To secure each pipe you will need an average of 2 clamps. The number of elbows differs depending on the complexity of the design; there can be 2 or 4.
• Number of corners and plugs for them depend on the roof configuration.

Today, many manufacturing companies offer online calculations of drainage systems on their websites.

Installation

All installation is carried out from top to bottom - this is important rule which cannot be neglected. Only in this case the quality of installation will be at the highest level.

• We find the middle of the cornice and put a point there, it is in this place that the first bracket needs to be secured. In this case, the upper edge of the gutter must be laid on it so that the distance between its edge and the roof is at least 3 centimeters. Due to this, water will not splash when entering the tray.
• A self-tapping screw is screwed into the marked point, and a special strong fishing line is tied to it. We install the remaining brackets along this line.
• We lay gutters. If necessary, the trays are trimmed using a hacksaw, and the edges are sanded with a file.

• Next we install the pipes. If the pipe does not have any bends, then simply insert its edge into the funnel. During work, it is necessary to use a plumb line to maintain strict verticality of the structure. If the drainpipe is installed in a complex area with bends, then special elbows are used during its installation.
• Clamps are used to secure pipes different forms. They can be attached directly to the wall of the house or at some distance from it. Clamps must be installed at the junction of two pipes. If necessary, you can install an additional clamp in the middle of each pipe.
• If a storm drainage system is installed on the site, then the lower edges of the pipes must be diverted to water intakes.
• This completes the process of installing a drainage system. If you strictly follow the instructions, installation will not take much time and effort.

To ensure that your gutter installation work is successful, take note of some useful tips from experts in this field.

• Use silicone sealant to apply to pipe joints. This will allow for reliable sealing of the seams during pipe displacement and temperature changes.
• Avoid mistakes when attaching the brackets. Such an element is installed under the gutters in three ways: fastening to the rafters, to the front strip under the eaves, or along the outermost element of the sheathing. The main condition for any option is the correctly set angle of inclination.
• Install the structure only at an air temperature of at least -5 degrees.

• Strictly ensure that the distance between the brackets does not exceed permissible norm. Otherwise, depressurization of joints and sagging of the structure may occur, and this will inevitably lead to water leakage.
• Be sure to check that the tray coincides with the edge of the cornice along its entire axis. Since even a slight displacement in any direction will lead to a leak.
• After completing installation of the structure, be sure to check the drainage. It is necessary to know for sure that the system will withstand the severity of the water flow. To do this, simply pour one bucket of water into the beginning of the tray system and check if everything is in order.
• Before the start of winter, be sure to clean the gutters and drain pipes of fallen leaves and other contaminants. It is advisable to carry out this procedure even 2 times a year. At the same time, use a gentle cleaning method without using metal objects that can damage the integrity of structural elements.

A pipe or ditch for draining any liquid

Alternative descriptions

"flight" of capital abroad

What indicates the end of rush hour?

Reduction of water

Draining the pool water

Draining the pool

Liquid drainage

The process of water leaving the pool

Leakage of money abroad

Capital flight abroad

Drift of capital abroad

Loss of water

Declining water and capital

Decreasing capital or water

Waste water

Loss, loss of capital

Ditch for water drainage

Descending

Flight of capital from the country

Decreasing capital

"flight" of personnel

Loss of “brains” from the plant

Loss of factory personnel

Decreasing liquid

"floating" brains over the hill

Transfer of capital abroad

"Flight" of personnel

"Floating" brains over the hill

See flow away

Loss of “brains” from the plant

Design and types of drainage systems
Materials for producing roof water
Installation of pipes and drainage vessels

The service life of any roof depends on various factors - the quality of the materials used, the approach to calculations, installation technology and external influences. One such factor is water drainage from the roof, where the improperly positioned structure is regularly exposed to moisture.

A properly designed and properly installed roof drainage system is an important element of roof design and requires a great deal of attention. This article talks about how to properly drain water from a roof.

Design and types of drainage systems

Structurally, each drainage system consists of pipes, drains and river basins. In these elements, water from the roof surface is directed into the storm, where its impact does not damage the building in any way.

There are three main drainage system schemes:

1. Unorganized drainage of rainwater from the roof. This design, also called spontaneous, as its name suggests, allows water to discharge independently from the roof. The specificity of the spontaneous drainage channel is simplicity - to ensure that the drainage does not have to be installed on anything.

   The problem is that liquid water undermines the structure, damages the end of the walls and has Negative influence onto the waterproofing layer.

2. Organized external roof drainage. This classic design, consisting of drainage pipes, gutters and several funnels that are connected to the storm sewer system.

   Due to the installation of organized outdoor drainage water Water is collected from all cones and removed from the roof surface. External drainage is quite easy to install and maintain.

3. Organized internal drainage from rain from the roof. The main difference between interior drainage and exterior drainage systems is the installation of structural elements in the building itself so that it is not visible.

   This washbasin is usually installed in case of flat roofs. Installing an indoor drain is complex and will be very difficult to maintain, especially if errors occur during installation.

Materials for producing roof water

To install a drainage system, various materials are used, the choice of which directly affects the cost of the structure and its durability. In order for components to perform their tasks well, they need sufficient resistance to moisture, resistance to temperature changes and a long service life.

In most cases, roof drainage is equipped with the following materials:

1. Cink Steel.

   Steel is more often used for drainage. The high popularity is in no way due to the fact that it is possible to choose not only the final structural elements, but also independent production of sheet metal.

   Galvanized steel meets all requirements: completely resists corrosion, safely slows down external factors and lasts safely for more than 15 years.

   The only disadvantage of metal products is their heavy weight, which makes installation difficult and creates a large load on the roof frame.

2. plastic. Polymer elements are very suitable for installing a drainage system. For most of the advantages of steel parts, plastic is characterized by more low prices, much lighter weight and a wider color range that allows you to choose the right roof color. Installing a plastic roof drain is very easy - installation is hassle-free and all necessary items are included.

   The biggest disadvantage of polymer products is their poor resistance to significant temperature changes.

3. baker. Copper drainage components are mainly characterized by high costs, so they are rarely used. However, the high cost is completely justified - copper does not completely wet out moisture and can work for more than a hundred years without the slightest mistrust.

   The main disadvantage of copper parts is the weight, which is typical for all metal products, so it is necessary to strengthen the frame and box.

When choosing materials for installing a drainage system, you need to push the roof.

Convertible roofs, metal roofs and profile sheets are best equipped with a plastic-coated steel outlet. For soft surfaces, actual plastic pipes for draining water from the roof, suitable for copper components for the drainage system.

Before choosing roof drainage pipes, you must calculate their sizes depending on the climatic conditions and roof parameters. As practice shows, pipes with a diameter of 50-70 mm and a groove with a diameter of 70-120 mm are suitable for small buildings.

Installation of pipes and drainage vessels

To get out of the water from the roof it was possible, you need to ensure compliance with two factors:

• Presence of inclination in collecting currents;
• Density.

If these factors occur, all parts of the data acquisition system will be properly installed correctly.

During installation, the following rules must be observed and followed:

1. If the drainage is heavy, it is necessary to strengthen the frame where the drainage elements are attached.

   The plastic outlet may be attached to the edges, but the metal products are attached to the rafters.

2. A layer of waterproofing must be laid between the drainage gutter and the rafters. The material is selected individually: as waterproofing it can act as polyethylene film and various bitumen creams.
3. Drainage elements are determined on all areas of the roof.

   Drain or drain pipe of any liquid

   The drainage gut is attached with a slight slope for catching.

4. The gutter is connected using special brackets. The groove should be half under the roof overhang, while the others face out. Such a device will ensure effective collection of liquid and prevent the destruction of the building from the destroyed snow masses.
5. Vertical lifts are attached to the corners of the building.

   A fan is supplied at these points (if not, water tanks or positioned sandbags are installed). The distance between the edge of the drainage pipe and the floor should be up to 50 cm.

6. Mounting brackets are installed in 50-60 cm increments. For large size structures, the spacing between applications must be further reduced.

While the drainage system may not be functioning properly, it should be regularly monitored and maintained.

If your roof drain installation is done properly, it should only be cleaned once a season. In progress Maintenance you must ensure that there is no leak and if found, take corrective action.

conclusion

Water drains from the roof through a drainage system. Right choice materials and a well-executed installation will create a reliable system that can effectively perform all its tasks.

Features of the drainage system
Types of ebb and flow for draining water from the roof
Requirements for installing do-it-yourself drainage systems
How to install and secure flashings

When it rains or when snow melts, water streams begin to flow from the roof, which can damage the roof covering and the facade of the building. If this happens constantly, the walls and foundation of the house will sooner or later be destroyed. To avoid such problems, you need to install a roof drainage system.

Thanks to the installation of structures that quickly drain water flows from slopes, a private house will last for more than a decade.

Installation of the elements from which they consist is a simple job even for a novice home craftsman. Therefore, you can install roof drainage systems yourself.

Features of the drainage system

Drains are gutters that have the following cross-section:

• round;
• rectangular;
• triangular (in rare cases).

Streams of water flow into them from the slopes. Some home owners think that their use is not necessary, since the roof is designed in such a way that precipitation is redirected by gravity from the ridge to the edges of the overhang.

But this is not so: if drainage systems are not installed on the roof, the flowing moisture does not have a purposeful movement - this process occurs chaotically and thus the finishing of the building’s facade is in danger of destruction. Precipitation penetrates into the places where the roof connects to the walls and destroys the blind area.

Professionals believe that the optimal cross-sectional shape for drainage systems is a rounded configuration, since in this case there are no hard-to-reach corners that become clogged with debris and dirt.

The presence of blockages requires that owners clean the drainage structure more often.

If you do not install roof ebbs with your own hands or with the help of specialists, the spontaneously moving flow creates puddles around the house, where, as a rule, paths are paved.

A well-equipped drainage system can solve the problems described above. It also allows you to collect melt and rain water and use it to water your garden plot.

Currently, there are different models of drainage systems available for sale. color solutions, which allow you to match the design to the façade finishing or roof covering.

Types of ebb and flow for draining water from the roof

When mass industrial production of gutters did not yet exist, it was necessary to make drainage from the roof with your own hands, adapting pipes cut in half for these purposes. Today, specialized stores offer a wide selection of drainage structures, the installation of which can be completed in the shortest possible time.

The most popular are drainage systems made from the following materials:

1. Aluminum.

   Metal gutters made from it are lightweight, so they do not require reinforced fasteners. The disadvantage of aluminum products is that it reacts with water, oxidizes and begins to deteriorate over time.

   Gutters should be coated with a sealant every season.

2. Copper. To make the flashing for the roof pipe, use oxidized copper, which is resistant to corrosion.

   Drain pipe t, 5 letter words

   This durable material has a noble color. In this case, the elements of the drainage system have significant weight and therefore it is very difficult to install them yourself. Copper castings are expensive.

3. Alloy steel.

   Galvanized gutters are considered one of the best options for arranging gutters because they have an affordable price and have anti-corrosion properties. But if the top layer of the elements of the drainage structure is damaged, the metal begins to deteriorate as a result of oxidative reactions upon contact with precipitation.

   When installing galvanized gutters, one should not forget about their large weight and therefore the brackets must be fastened more often.

4. Plastic. Plastic roof drains are becoming increasingly popular among roofing accessories. They are lightweight and easy to install with your own hands. Plastic elements fit together without gaps. Their disadvantage is that in severe frosts, the products become fragile and covered with cracks.

Everyone has metal castings there is a high degree of resonating ability, due to which the noise level from falling raindrops is irritating to the ear.

To eliminate this defect, a polymer coating is applied to galvanized elements in industrial conditions, which helps dampen loud sounds.

Requirements for installing do-it-yourself drainage systems

High-quality installation requires compliance with certain rules:

1. In order for the ebb tides to function effectively, it is necessary to have an inclination in the direction of the water intake funnels and pipes.

   It is made at the rate of 1-3 centimeters per linear meter.

2. The cross-sectional size of the gutter is determined based on the size of the slopes. If the roof has a surface of about 90 square meters, use flashings having an 8-centimeter diameter.

   The larger the area of ​​the slopes, the larger this parameter should be for the gutter.

3. The ebbs are mounted below the edge of the overhang at least 3 centimeters so that they are not torn off when the snow masses melt off the slopes.
4. Vertically laid downspouts used to move water from the tides to the elements storm sewer, placed at intervals of 5–6 meters.

   If the house has a complex configuration, they are made at each corner of the roof.

5. To prevent drops flying from the gutter from getting under the roofing material, a drip tray is installed.
6. To know how many meters of low tide you need to purchase, calculate the perimeter of the building and add 10 - 15% for trimming and observing overlaps at the joining points of the elements.
7. When choosing a gutter, take into account how to attach the ebbs according to the technology.

   You should select funnels, brackets and pipes, which should be made of similar material.

How to install and secure flashings

Before installing drainage systems on the roof, the brackets are attached to the rafters before laying the waterproofing layer.

Only if the roof does not have an overhang or is small in size, then the ebb is fixed on the wall or on the eaves board.

Typically, roof drains are installed in the following sequence:

1. After completion of the construction rafter system A string is pulled along the bottom of the slope, taking into account the slope of the gutter.
2. Brackets are fixed on the sheathing in increments of 50-70 centimeters.
3. If the drainage system is copper or galvanized and has a lot of weight, the sheathing in the place where the brackets are fixed must be reinforced with boards measuring 50x150 millimeters.
4. After completing the fastening of the brackets, the installation of the drip sill begins.

   The gutter modules are placed in fastening elements, joining them together. The joints are treated with sealant for the purpose of waterproofing.

After you have installed the roof drains yourself, check the functioning of the drainage system.

Plastic roof drains - complete set and installation. Water drain pipe

Draining rainwater from the roof

Rainwater flowing from the roof has enormous destructive power. Firstly, the walls and foundation of the house get wet, which leads to their rapid wear. Secondly, water falling from a height onto the blind area knocks out and washes away the hollows on it in a short time. Concrete blind area can collapse quite quickly, like paving slabs. Thirdly, all the water flowing from the roof is absorbed into the soil right next to the house, which leads to flooding of basements and ground floors. We could list the consequences for a long time, but it is already clear that water drainage from the roof is necessary. To do this, a drainage system must be installed under the roof overhang, which collects water flowing from the roof and directs it to a designated place on the site. To do everything correctly, you should familiarize yourself with what elements of the drainage system are needed, what materials they can be made of, as well as the technology for their installation.

1. Where to drain water from the roof

Roof water drainage system - elements

There are two types of drainage systems - external and internal.

External drainage system is installed on roof overhangs in the event that the roof is pitched (single-pitched, gable, hip, etc.). This type of system is used in most country houses, so we will consider it in more detail.

The internal drainage system is installed on flat roofs, where the roofing material has a special slope leading to a funnel - a rainwater receiver, which then enters the drainpipe inside the building or in technical cavities.

• Gutter. Serves to collect water flowing from the roof of the house. Can have different shapes and sizes, made from various materials. The gutter then carries the water into a downspout, which directs the water to the roof water drain.

• Connectors for gutters. Typically, gutters of a drainage system are no longer than 2.5 m, therefore, to install a drain on a roof that is longer, it is necessary to connect the gutters to each other. The connectors are equipped with rubber seals that ensure the tightness of the connection and also serve to compensate for the thermal expansion of the gutter material.
• Gutter angle. Various corner elements for lining the internal corners of the house. Provides excellent hydrodynamics.
• Brackets. Various types of elements that are necessary to secure gutters to the roof. This can be a long hook for hanging gutters, a short hook, or a compact hook. They all have different designs and are used in different situations.
• Gutter funnel. With its help, water from the gutters is collected into the drainpipe. A mandatory element for installing a drain when correct installation no additional sealing is required.
• Gutter caps are installed along the edges of the gutter to prevent water from running off.
• Pipe. Water from the gutters drains into it. Further through the pipe, the water is drained to the designated place. It is installed under the funnel and securely attached to it.
• The pipe elbow and drain elbow are used to drain water away from the base and blind area of ​​the building. The pipe elbow serves to change the direction of the drainpipe. The drain elbow is installed at the bottom so that the water flows directly into the storm drain.
• Brackets for fastening the pipe. They are used to secure the drainpipe to the wall of the house so that gusts of wind cannot disturb its position.

In addition to the above elements, a protective mesh cap is sometimes used on the gutter to prevent debris, such as leaves, from getting into it. After all, a clogged drain begins to perform its functions poorly. Also, instead of a drainpipe, decorative drainage chains can be used, through which water flows into a container or flowerbed located immediately under the funnel. Such a chain can be a real decoration of the house if it is correctly combined with other exterior items and you select gutters that are organically combined with the chain.

Types of gutters and downpipes

Gutters and pipes are the main elements of the system that drains rainwater from the roof. On the market you can purchase ready-made kits of drainage systems consisting of various elements, after connection and installation of which you can be sure that the collection and drainage of rainwater is ensured. The main thing is to choose the right sizes. Typically, the diameter of the gutter varies from 90 mm to 150 mm, and the diameter of the downspout from 75 mm to 120 mm.

What diameter of gutter and drainpipe to choose depends on the size of the roof of the house. For roofs with a small slope from 10 to 70 m2, gutters with a diameter of 90 mm and pipes with a diameter of 75 mm are suitable. For roofs with a slope area greater than 100 m2, gutters with a diameter of 100, 120, 130 and 150 mm are used, and pipes - 90 mm, 100 and 120 mm.

In addition to the size, the elements of the drainage system differ in the material of manufacture and even in shape.

Gutter material

Gutter systems, including gutters, can be either metal or plastic. Metal gutters include gutters made of galvanized steel, aluminum, copper, titanium-zinc and purala (galvanized steel coated on both sides with polymer).

Galvanized steel gutters, although more resistant to water than previously used tin gutters, nevertheless quickly fail under the influence of acid rain. Therefore, recently they are used less and less, and only because they are the cheapest. But products coated with polymers, for example, pural, are resistant to corrosion, fading of the material, as well as mechanical stress. These gutters are available in a wide range of colors, so you can choose the product that best matches the facade of the building. The connection of gutters made of galvanized steel coated with polymer is made using special connecting elements with sealing rubber bands, locks and brackets. And the brackets have a snap-on design. The disadvantage of such products is the fragility of the coating, which can be damaged during transportation or installation, and then rust will form at the site where the polymer coating is chipped.

Aluminum gutters are varnished or painted various colors, so they last a long time. Products are purchased ready-made and connected with rivets and aluminum glue; special paste or silicone can also be used for sealing. In addition to finished products, it is possible to make a roof drain from sheet aluminum directly on the construction site by cutting the sheet and bending it in a certain way.

Copper gutters are considered the most durable. They are made from pure copper without additional coatings. They are connected to each other by folding or soldering. Most often they are mounted on standing seam copper roofs. Over time, copper oxidizes, acquiring a greenish tint, and later almost malachite. This is the so-called patina - copper oxide. It gives the entire roof a certain sophistication. Against the general background of such a roof, gutters and drains will not stand out at all, as if they were one with the roof.

When installing copper gutters, you must remember that they should not come into contact with other metals - aluminum or steel, and the roof of the house should not be made of these materials either, otherwise the water flowing from them will lead to corrosion of the copper.

Titanium-zinc gutter can have a natural silver color or can be specially coated with a patina. By the way, titanium-zinc is a material that consists of 99.5% zinc, with the rest being additives of copper, aluminum and titanium. Titanium in this case gives a certain strength to the product, since zinc itself is very fragile. Titanium-zinc gutters are connected by soldering, during which special pastes are used. This type of gutters is the most expensive currently existing, and therefore is used extremely rarely. But it can last up to 150 years.

PVC gutters are the most common. The plastic from which they are made is painted in its entirety, so the color of the product is uniform and even if the surface is damaged, it will not be noticeable, as if the material was painted only on the outside. To make PVC more resistant to ultraviolet rays and chemical aggression, the surface of the gutters is coated with acrylic or titanium dioxide. PVC gutters are connected to each other using couplings with rubber seals, latches and adhesive connections. The service life of a PVC drain can reach 50 years, and all due to the fact that PVC is not afraid of corrosion, can withstand temperature changes (-50 ° C – +70 ° C), as well as heavy snow and wind loads. In the process of snow melting from the roof, PVC gutters are not damaged due to the fact that they do not have a vulnerable coating. For example, if ice from the roof scratches the gutter, such a gutter will not last long.

Shape of gutters

In addition to the fact that gutters are made from different materials, they can also have different shapes. The sections of gutters are as follows: semicircular, trapezoidal, semi-elliptical, square and rectangular, as well as imitating the shape of a cornice.

Semicircular gutters are the most common and fit any roof structure. Their edges turned inward and outward are stiffening ribs that increase the resistance of the gutters to mechanical loads. Semi-elliptical gutters are able to accommodate and move a larger volume of water, so they are used to drain water from the roof of a house with a large slope area. Square and rectangular gutters are selected for a specific design, so they are not used everywhere. In addition, such a structure can easily be damaged when snow falls from the roof, so it is mounted in a special way, and snow retainers are installed on the roof.

Whatever the shape of the gutter is chosen, the pipes to it must correspond: for semicircular and semi-elliptical gutters - round pipes, and for boxed ones (square, rectangular and trapezoidal) - square.

Brackets - hooks for attaching gutters differ in size and shape, as well as the location of the fastener. The shape depends on the place of fastening:

• Brackets attached to the wind board, which is nailed along the roof slope. Such hooks are called front brackets; they are screwed to the wind board and have an adjustment mechanism.
• Flat curved brackets are attached to rafter leg, if the pitch between the rafters does not exceed permissible distance between the gutter brackets, and can also be attached to the outermost batten of the sheathing or to the solid plank.
• Flat curved brackets can be attached to the side of the rafters, but they must first be bent.
• Universal brackets can be attached anywhere: to the wind board, to the last batten of the sheathing, to the rafters in the front or side, as well as to a solid plank flooring.

Typically, the brackets come complete with gutters and the entire gutter system, so they exactly match the shape and color of the gutter. For example, for trapezoidal gutters, brackets of a special trapezoidal shape are used. The same applies to other types.

The material of the brackets depends on the material of the gutters. For copper products, copper or steel brackets are used. For titanium-zinc gutters, only titanium-zinc fasteners. But for gutters made of PVC or galvanized steel coated with polymer, metal brackets are used that are covered with a composite shell or painted to match the color of the drain.

The dimensions of the holders and brackets must correspond to the dimensions of the gutters. Although there are universal models that can be adjusted, so they are suitable for gutters and pipes of any diameter.

Installation of a rainwater drainage system from the roof

Installing a gutter system on a pitched roof is easy enough to be done by one person and a partner. Although the installation technology itself has some important nuances and little details that determine the reliability of the entire system. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to entrust the installation to specialists. The fact is that most manufacturers of drainage systems provide a guarantee on the product. If system components are damaged during transportation or installation, the warranty will be void. If you turn to professionals for help, you will have a guarantee not only for the products, but also for the work performed.

If you decide to install a water drain from the roof yourself, then the instructions below will be useful to you.

First of all, you need to decide what material you need the gutter from, what shape and color. Then a calculation is made of how many of which elements are required. After purchasing everything you need, you can begin the work itself.

Securing the brackets

It is extremely important to correctly determine what is best to attach the brackets to specifically in your case. Remember, the distance from the gutter to the wall should not be less than 6 - 8 cm. Otherwise, the wall will get wet, if not from wastewater, then from condensation.

Next rule– the gutter should be located with a slope of 5 – 20 mm per 1 linear meter, so that water does not accumulate in it, but flows by gravity into the funnel and pipe. Therefore, the brackets must be mounted not on the same horizontal line, but offset. Before you start installing the brackets, you need to check the required slope and mark it. Only then can installation begin.

How to collect water from a roof and correctly calculate the slope? We take the length of the slope, for example, 8 m. The slope should be 10 mm per 1 m. It turns out that the difference in height between the upper and lower brackets should be 80 mm. If the length of the slope is more than 12 m, then it is necessary to install two drain pipes and make the gutter with a slope in two directions. Starting from the middle of the slope, the left side of the gutter should slope to the left and down, and the right side should slope to the right and down.

The topmost bracket is attached first. It should be located on the opposite side of the drain pipe. It must be installed in such a way that water flowing from the roof gets into it, but it is not in the path of the falling avalanche snow, otherwise the system will not survive. The distance from the edge of the roof to the first upper bracket should be 10 - 15 cm. It is secured with self-tapping screws.

The second one is attached to the last lowest bracket. It must be secured with self-tapping screws without tightening it completely. Then a construction thread is stretched between the brackets and places for attaching intermediate brackets are marked along it. The distance between the brackets should be 40 - 70 cm depending on the system, the most common step is 50 cm. All intermediate brackets are fixed.

Important! When installing the brackets, it is important to remember that the gutters will be connected to each other, and the bracket should not fit under the connecting piece. Also, it should not be under the receiving funnel, but at a distance of 10 - 20 cm from it.

By the way, the receiving funnel is not installed in the corner of the slope, but 40 - 70 cm closer to the middle, at the level of the walls of the house.

Therefore, the last bottom bracket must be moved slightly higher than the position in which it was first attached so that the water can drain into the funnel.

Installation of gutters

Next, the gutter is assembled and installed on the brackets. Typically, gutters are available in lengths of 1 m, 2 m and 2.5 m. Therefore, the elements must be pre-connected. To do this, use elements with a rubber seal.

Plugs are installed along the edges of the gutter, and a receiving funnel/storm inlet is installed in the appropriate place. The axis of the funnel should coincide with the axis of the hole cut in the gutter.

The gutter should have a slope not only towards the receiving pipe, but also towards “away from the house”. This will ensure safety and reduce the possibility of damage to the gutter during a snow avalanche.

The drainpipes are installed last. The drain pipe must be located exactly under the funnel/rain inlet. The pipe is secured to the walls with special holders or clamps. Fastening the clamps depends on the material of the walls; these can be screws, nails, self-tapping screws or dowels.

Pipe holders must be placed at the pipe joints - under each socket. Maximum distance between the holders 1.8 - 2 m. The last element of the pipe - the drain elbow - must be positioned so as to drain water to the designated place.

Where to drain water from the roof

Well, the drainage system is installed on the roof, all that remains is to decide where all the collected water will be discharged. And there are several options:

• Draining rainwater from the roof into a container. A barrel or tank for rainwater can be placed at a distance from the house (about 0.5 - 5 m) from above, or it can be buried in the ground. The water flowing from the roof will accumulate in a container, and then it can be used to water the garden or garden.

• Draining rainwater into a filtration well. If rainwater is not needed and you are not going to water anything, then it can be drained into a collection filtration well. A pit is dug in the ground, at the bottom of which a layer of crushed stone is poured. Then settle down from above concrete well, which is also filled up to half with crushed stone mixed with sand, and on top with sand. This bedding serves as an absorbent element. Seeping through sand and gravel, the water is purified. Such a well must be located at least 2 m away from the house, otherwise the level may rise groundwater around the house.

• Draining rainwater into the sewer. If a private house is connected to central sewer, then rainwater can be drained into it, but only by agreement and for a fee.

• Draining rainwater into a drainage ditch or pond. Rainwater is clean enough not to harm the ecosystem if poured into a drainage ditch or reservoir (lake, river, artificial pit). The main thing is to calculate that the water level in the drainage ditch does not rise too high in the event of heavy rains.

It is necessary to drain water from the roof of the house so that it does not undermine the foundation and destroy it. Therefore, if possible, it is necessary to equip a full-fledged drainage system. If this is not possible, for example, this happens if the roof is sloping and made of natural materials- reeds or straw, then its overhangs should protrude beyond the house by at least 50 cm. Below, it is desirable that the water flows directly onto the ground.

strport.ru

The simplest drainage system for a summer residence.

It is not enough to supply water to the house; after use it needs to be disposed of somewhere. It’s hard to carry it out with buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: the water comes into the house on its own, and then you have to carry it out on your own two feet. You need at least basic sewerage for your home or cottage. The option of simply removing the pipe from the house and draining the water onto the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and an unpleasant smell from this puddle or hole is almost guaranteed. What to do? So, we need: an old metal or plastic barrel , a certain number of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably 110mm PVC), a tee, a drain, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium-fraction crushed stone, a shovel and several hours of our precious time. We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from the well or borehole and below them along the groundwater flow. We dig a hole with a diameter larger than the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m (the diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (deeper is better). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if it is metal, then with a grinder, if it is plastic, then with a wood saw with a fine tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, near the bottom of the barrel. We fill the bottom of the hole with at least 20 cm of crushed stone and place the barrel upside down, oriented the hole for the pipe towards the house. Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, bringing it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe; the water flowing through it will warm it up perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we place a tee with a small piece of pipe extending above the surface of the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and allow air to exit the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We insert the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with crushed stone to the full height of the barrel. It is advisable to put some kind of non-rotting material at the bottom of the barrel (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the hole with soil, compacting it thoroughly. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally introducing the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. You can put a plastic fungus on a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground near a buried barrel, which is difficult, but can be found in stores. And now the nuances. This is exclusively a drainage sewer for the home, it cannot cope with fecal waste, it cannot be cleaned or something to serve something, but it’s not intended for that. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or bathhouse. Drainage wells from a septic tank have the same device. The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: depth of soil freezing + height of the barrel + height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region. : 1.2m+0.9m+0.2m=2.3m). But digging so deep is difficult and not necessary. The effluent also warms the barrel.

If the soil at the site where the sewage system is installed is clayey, and the water leaves the barrel slowly, then the sewage system for your home can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer pipe, or better yet, a drainage pipe. This pipe may discharge water into a drainage ditch at the border of the site, or it may lead nowhere, ending in a dead end. The purpose of this pipe is to drain excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of ​​water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone bed and is also covered with crushed stone and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be damaged by a number of holes in the lower part to improve water flow, making it like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is placed in a drainage ditch.

sansamuch.ru

the pipe in the ditch will serve to drain water

The ditch passing by the site is an important element of it.

Firstly, it greatly helps in removing excess water, and not only from this area, but also from all that are located above. If the ditch is plugged, increased moisture will be provided to all areas located nearby. And if the ditch is of sufficient size, increased moisture may result in flooding. Secondly, if there is a local sewerage system, it will flow into a ditch - it often makes sense to include part of it in sewer system. Here you will definitely need a pipe into the ditch - to facilitate water flow and more convenient drainage.

It may also be necessary to ensure that heavy equipment can move freely across the ditch. Here, both the strength of the crossing and its width will be important - sometimes heavy equipment has very complex turning radii.

Before the pipe is laid in the ditch, the required diameter and length should be determined, and the ditch itself should be prepared. To do this, it is cleared, plants are removed, unnecessary stones, other garbage. The bottom of the ditch is increased if necessary, and the slope of the pipe must also be determined. Its location should be in the direction of water movement - it should not stagnate inside. The bottom must be properly compacted.

Among pipes made of different materials, it is best to choose a concrete product - it is designed specifically for these purposes, that is, transporting atmospheric and domestic wastewater, groundwater, industrial liquid waste, non-aggressive towards concrete, and will serve well for a long time.

Pipe laying methods

A concrete pipe is laid in a ditch on a layer of coarse gravel or crushed stone, with preliminary calculation slope to direct water flows. The layer thickness of the bedding should be no less than 20-30 cm - depending on the size of the pipe, that is, diameter and length. To ensure that the stop for the pipe in the ditch is uniform, you can fill it with a cement-sand mixture as a leveling layer.

Instead of crushed stone and gravel, you can use wooden logs from which the knots have been previously removed. The pieces of wood are placed tightly on the bottom of the prepared ditch - approximately every 30 cm.

Concrete product, laid in a ditch, can last much longer if it is pre-treated with a special primer. The finished concrete pipe is sprinkled with sand or selected soil.

If you plan to arrange a drive in the place where the pipe is located, it is very useful to perform reinforcement at both ends. It is carried out as follows: vertical formwork panels are placed at the ends of the pipe, after which concrete is poured, while maintaining the correct slope from the center to the ends of the product. To do this, you should use well-vibrated concrete - its frost resistance is much greater than that of ordinary concrete. You can use the following composition for the mixture: one part cement, grade 500, three parts sand-gravel mixture, the addition of a plasticizer, which can be purchased at any hardware store. The surface itself can be strengthened by installing a surface deck from concrete sleepers or slabs.

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Another installation option

You can lay a pipe in a ditch in another way - if you plan to drive in the place where it is located, you should carefully consider the possible options.

• the prepared ditch is filled with geotextiles;
• the next layer is gravel, and sand on top of it in a layer of 10-15 cm;
• all this must be well compacted;
• a pipe is laid on the resulting cushion, observing the slope;
• A layer of fabric is laid on top, right up to the surface level, followed by a layer of sand, reinforcement must be installed every 20 cm, and concrete must be poured.

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If you take the following measures, you can avoid the occurrence of internal blockages during future operation:

• during installation work A cable should be passed through the pipe - with further use this will greatly facilitate cleaning the pipe. Instead of a cable, it is permissible to use a synthetic rope, which does not react well to moisture;
• A fine mesh metal mesh is fixed on both sides of the pipe - it will not allow debris to penetrate inside.

1landscapedesign.ru

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic roof gutters - photos and videos

Some homeowners are wary of using plastic gutters. The opinion has become firmly established in the minds of consumers that products made of plastic are less reliable than those made of metal. This material is perceived as synonymous with unreliability, fragility, and fragility. However, this statement has long been untrue, because modern components for assembling a system for draining melt and rainwater from a roof made of polyvinyl chloride are much superior to their metal counterparts in terms of service life, tightness and quality. In this article we will compare plastic gutters with products made from other materials, discuss the positive aspects and installation rules.

Device and equipment

Modern plastic gutters are made from polyvinyl chloride, a thermoplastic polymer that is a product of petroleum refining. To ensure water drainage from the roof, manufacturers offer a wide range of components, which can be assembled to create any configuration. Installation of roof drainage uses the following plastic elements:

1. Gutters. They take the liquid flowing from the slopes and transfer it to the collection point in the water intake funnel. Such gutters, unlike metal ones, have a wider choice of gutter section sizes.
2. Gutter coupling. This is the part necessary to connect the gutter sections together. The coupling has a shortened length and is mounted using silicone sealant or rubber seal.
3. Gutter angle. This drainage element is used to give the gutter the desired direction. The most open parts have an angle of 90 degrees, however, some manufacturers produce others.
4. Gutter bracket. Plastic holder in the form of a hook, which is attached to the front board and a gutter is inserted into it.
5. Gutter plug. This is to make a plastic drain, which is put on the end of the gutter opposite the water inlet funnel to limit the unorganized flow of water.
6. Water intake funnel. The most important element drains that collect water from the gutter and enter the drain pipe. Externally, this part looks like a short groove with a funnel-shaped process.
7. Drain pipe. This is the name given to a vertically located pipe that connects to a funnel and ensures the transfer of water to the storm drain.
8. Drain pipe end. A segment of pipe that reduces the speed at which water falls, bent so that water flows smoothly from the roof.
9. Bracket for drain pipe. A fastening in the form of a ring, with the help of which the pipe is mounted on the wall.

Unlike metal gutters, plastic ones provide the opportunity to equip water drainage for any roof configuration. Installation is possible even if the angle between the slopes is not 90 degrees, since plastic products can be easily adjusted to size by cutting them with a regular hacksaw.

Pros of plastic drain

Plastic gutters are still used less frequently than metal ones. However, the use of high-quality material for their production makes it possible to increase new level efficiency of collecting and transferring water from roof slopes. To convince of the practicality of drainage systems made of polyvinyl chloride, it is enough to list their operational characteristics:

Note! The peculiarity of a plastic roof drain is that when the temperature changes, it changes its volume. This property often causes deformation of their polyvinyl chloride elements during the first frost, if the installation was carried out without compensation parts. Parts that compensate for changes in size are needed for attaching funnels, corners and stops.

Flaws

Each material for the production of roof gutters has weaknesses, which should be known and taken into account when choosing and installing. Despite the undeniable advantages of plastic, elements for assembling drainage systems from it have the following disadvantages:

Important! The abundance of manufacturers and the lack of government control have created a situation in the construction market where the dimensions of parts are not regulated by anyone and vary greatly. To ensure the best possible fit between the drainage elements, purchase all components from the same company.

Installation technology

The main condition for efficient operation of water drainage from slopes is high-quality, accurate installation in accordance with technology requirements. Installation of the drain begins after assembly rafter frame and installation of sheathing. To protect the wood of the rafters from moisture penetration, they are covered with an additional layer of waterproofing. To install plastic gutters, proceed as follows:

Note! Manufacturers recommend installing plastic drains at +5 degrees or more. This is necessary so that the plastic elements reach their normal dimensions. To prevent the drain from being damaged when the temperature rises or falls, use compensation parts and screw the screws not completely, leaving a gap.

Video instruction

krovlyakrishi.ru

Drainage from the roof - features of installation of drainage systems of various types

To protect the façade of the building from splashing rain and to drain water from the local area, organized roof drainage is installed in buildings with pitched roofs.

The structure of the drainage system of a house with a pitched roof

Manufacturers offer several options for modular systems, differing mainly in the material from which they are made:

• Since Soviet times, galvanized steel storm systems have been common. Today there are more quality products However, galvanizing is still popular.

Traditionally, these are the wide funnels that were used. They are ugly, but the wide “neck” compensates for the low accuracy of product manufacturing and installation.

Galvanized steel roofs often have no horizontal gutters, only roof outlets and downspouts. The water flow is directed by gutters made on the eaves of the roof itself. This solution is labor-intensive and ineffective for roofs with a large slope. However, due to the fact that there are no horizontal elements that can be damaged by falling snow and icicles, it is more reliable and safe.

Roof drainage made of galvanized steel without gutters is reliable, but difficult to implement

Positive aspects include greater structural strength (steel from 1 to 2 mm is used), low cost and the ability to manufacture individual products of any shape.

Diagram of a traditional galvanized steel drain

Disadvantages: Galvanizing is not very attractive. Pipes rust, and already in the second or third year, starting from the ends, corrosion spreads. The service life is up to 15-30 years if the pipes are periodically painted with oil paints on the outside. The geometry of the products is not ideal; the joints of the elements do not always fit tightly. Traditionally, gutters and downspouts were joined by rolling, which created a strong connection. Today they prefer to seal the seam with sealant.

Today you can find galvanized drains with three types of funnels: traditional with a wide neck and more modern: overhead and through

• Drainage system made of galvanized steel 0.6-0.7 mm thick with a polymer coating, the shape of the products is round or rectangular.

Metal system with zinc-polymer coating. You can clearly see how gutters can be combined on complex roofs

The buyer is offered a choice of many colors that can exactly match the metal roofing. This storm drain looks neat, the manufacturing precision of the products is high, and it is possible to order individual products. Service life is 25-50 years depending on the type of metal.

During the installation process, you need to protect the steel from scratches.

• Gutters made of copper, aluminum and steel with zinc-titanium coating are still rather exotic in our country.

A copper drain will darken over time and become covered with a malachite-colored film. In addition to products made from solid copper, systems are produced from steel with a copper galvanic coating

• Plastic drain systems, depending on the design, can be connected in two different ways: adhesive or using rubber seals. Pipes of a wide variety of configurations, color palette not rich. Service life up to 30 years.

The plastic storm system has the neatest appearance and the best sealing of joints.

Undoubted advantages: ease of installation, light weight, the best tightness among all systems, neat appearance, reasonable cost.

Disadvantage: plastic is susceptible to extreme frosts, is more fragile than steel and can be damaged by a snowmobile.

It is necessary to draw up a roof diagram and initially determine two points: the location of the funnels and the diameter of the gutters. Drains with diameters of 8, 10 and 12.5 cm are more common.

The distance between funnels should not exceed 24 meters. The optimal option is 8-12 meters, so that the overall slope of the gutters is not too great. It is necessary to check the pipe's ability to drain water. Having placed the funnels on the diagram, the roof must be conditionally divided into areas served by certain drains. For one square (in horizontal projection, not in area) meter of roof there should be 1.5 cm2 of the cross-sectional area of ​​the funnel and drain. For example, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm has a cross-sectional area of ​​78.5 cm2 and is capable of draining stormwater from a roof whose horizontal projection is 52 m2. For dry areas and regions with high level precipitation adjustments are made.

Approximately this plan needs to be drawn, measured and calculated the area of ​​the drainage areas for each drain

Having a general scheme, you can contact suppliers, the manager will help you create a cost estimate. Either download or use the online program for calculating drainage on the manufacturer’s website.

There are two types of fastening of horizontal gutters:

• The first is using metal hooks that are mounted on the base of the roof. The brackets must be secured before the roof covering is laid. This option is reliable; it must be used for heavy gutters in snowy regions. The hooks are placed on the base of the roof at different distances in order to ensure the required slope of the gutter. The locations of the funnels must be determined in advance.

Gutter brackets are attached to the top of the roof base. For all installation work, only self-tapping screws should be used.

• The second option is that the brackets are fixed to the frontal (end) board or rafters. The solution is less reliable; the screws can be pulled out with great force. In addition, such hook holders are used for plastic systems; they themselves are also made of polymer. In most models, holders are designed for installation only on a strictly vertical surface. Their installation to the frontal board is simple, convenient, and can be done at any time after the roof is ready and the eaves overhangs are hemmed. The slope of the gutter is achieved by installing holders on different heights. Can be recommended in cases where there is no danger of snow falling from the roof.

The drainage brackets are attached to the vertical surface of the front board

So, let's start with installing the brackets. For the first option (we attach it to the base of the roof), the hook-bracket must first be bent in accordance with the slope of the roof.

Installation of brackets on the roof base. It is necessary to observe the general slope and do not forget to control the position of the hooks with a level

First, we attach the brackets that will support the funnels. Then we divide the spaces between the drainpipes by the minimum distance between the hooks (0.6 for plastic and 0.9 m for metal). Having marked, we pull the cord in order to give a uniform slope of the gutters to the drain funnels.

Installation of horizontal elements and installation of the elbow

In some systems, the funnels are installed first, in others, on the contrary, the gutter is installed first. Marking begins from the funnel. The length of the gutters is usually 3 or 4 meters; the outermost ones in the gutter line have to be cut off. Plastic is cut with a hacksaw, metal - only with high-quality metal scissors. Never use a grinder, otherwise the steel will quickly rust. A plug completes the line of gutters; connector either internal or external rotation.

The complete installation process for storm drains. Don't forget to follow safety regulations

Gutter connections can be different: with seals, glueless, adhesive, sealed with silicone. You must follow the instructions. As a rule, the funnel is installed taking into account possible temperature expansions, that is, the joint has a gap for deformations. This must be taken into account immediately.

To go from a funnel to a vertical drain, you need to install two elbows and one straight section. The distance of the drain and the lower elbow to the wall is determined by the manufacturer.

This way you can find out the required length of the straight section of the knee

Installing gutters is not difficult at all. As a rule, they have a length of 4 meters and are easily joined.

If water is drained from the house superficially, on the blind area, in the lower part of the drain we place the usual mark - an elbow with a large offset at an angle of 45°.

The drain directs water away from the building, and the lower edge of the pipe should be positioned 15-20 cm higher

If the area is equipped with an underground stormwater system, the drain can be inserted directly into the stormwell. The best way Round pipes correspond to this option plastic gutters.

If you plan to run the drain into a storm well, the best choice would be round pipes with a diameter of 10 cm

• There are many various types, brands and varieties of drainage systems. Although they are generally similar, they differ in details. During the installation process, you must study and keep with you the work manual, which can be obtained from your dealer or downloaded from the manufacturer’s website.
• In snowy areas, it is mandatory to carry out snow retention measures for slippery types of roofing (all types of metal roofing, except composite). For other types of roofing, snow retention is desirable. Gutter heating electric cable will minimize the likelihood of gutter damage.

Snow guards will protect not only people, but also the drainage system from snowfall

Any person who is not afraid of heights and has minimal construction skills can drain a roof using a modular system. Special attention It is necessary to pay attention to the precise marking of the brackets. It is not worth taking on a roof drainage system made of galvanized steel sheets without gutters without having experience working with seams.

goodkrovlya.com

How to turn your wet area into a full-fledged yard and garden with flowering plants? Drainage prevents stagnation of rain/melt water in the local area and minimizes damage from groundwater. Drainage also allows you to obtain free clean water suitable for irrigation.

Why is soil drainage needed?

Soil drainage is carried out to remove groundwater or excess moisture that accumulates after rains or melting snow. Is it worth reminding us how much trouble constant dampness can cause:

• lopsided fences;
• swollen flower beds and vegetable gardens;
• broken foundation;
• mold in the basement, etc.

Drainage is needed if:

1. The groundwater level is less than 1 m from the ground surface;
2. The land around the house is clayey/loamy with low water yield;

1. The site is located on a slope (a transverse drainage ditch or several that are part of the central highway are installed).
2. The courtyard is located in a lowland (a perimeter system of drainage pipes is being installed - drains).

1. The surrounding area is flat, the water has no natural drainage and stagnates.

Types of drainage

Depending on the depth of groundwater, geological structure depending on the area to be drained and the nature of the object, a specific drainage system is installed. Local drainage systems are used for drainage of houses and outbuildings.

Types and functions of local drainage:

1. Plastic or filter bed, located directly under the building on low-permeable soil. Prevents the entry of moisture already in capillary form. It is laid simultaneously with the construction of the house. Suitable if you have a deep basement/underground garage.
   The filter bed is a layer of crushed stone/gravel, crushed stone and sand or geocomposite, connected to a system of drains extending beyond the outer walls of the foundation by at least 0.7 m;

After construction work, such drainage will be impossible, so geological surveys are necessary at the design stage.

1. Annular- also protects parts of the house below ground level from flooding. The efficiency of drainage depends on the depth of the pipes, as well as the size of the circuit. Unlike plastic, it can be laid after the construction of the house;

1. Wall-mounted- applies if the house is located on waterproof soil. Pipes with filter coating are laid outside the facility;

1. Spot- is installed in places where regular “wet” work is carried out: a car wash area, carpet washing area, at a water pump.

Carrying out common task To stabilize the water balance of the earth, the design of drainage facilities may vary. This dissimilarity makes it possible to effectively use structures on terrain of any complexity, saving money and time.

Design differences of drainages:

1. Horizontal- is a pipeline placed between filter layers of sand, gravel, geofabric. The system includes inspection wells for pipe maintenance. This also includes ditches/trenches and drains for rainwater - sewer pipes/concrete channels;

1. Vertical- several wells from which water can flow down naturally/through a drilled well, be pumped out by pumps, or flow through a combined drain system into the collector;

1. Combined(the name speaks for itself) is a device for both horizontal and vertical drainage.

How to Know if Your Yard Needs Drainage

Before starting extensive work, in each specific case you need to make sure that such an event is necessary.

How to determine soil moisture:

1. Drill a hole in 0.5 m increments, checking the dryness of the soil. Gradually lower the rope with a sinker and a piece of paper, marking each meter on the rope. The depth at which the paper remains dry indicates the upper water table;
2. In the area of ​​new buildings, the foundation pit on the neighbors' property is checked to see if there is water there, how much, whether it flows and where or whether it stagnates;

1. If there are wells, the water level in them is clearly visible;
2. Survey the local population regarding seasonal/permanent flooding.

Don't ignore natural cues. If moisture-loving willow, reeds, horsetail, forget-me-nots, and marigolds grow in the area, and if there are concentrations of mosquitoes, then drainage is indispensable.

Professional to help

Complete information about the structure of the earth within a certain territory is provided by an organization dealing with earth geology. It has special equipment and the ability to conduct professional research.

Based on the information received, it will be clearly determined:

1. Geological structure of the site;
2. Area requiring drainage;
3. Characteristic movement of groundwater;
4. Changes in groundwater levels with a completed drainage system, etc..

Studying the soil will be useful for designing a house and a drainage system (it is best to carry out these activities in parallel). Documentary justification for such work can be found in SP 47.13330.2012, 11-104-97, 11-105-97. The work is not cheap - the cost of drilling will average from 600 to 2500 rubles/1 m.

Drainage equipment

The drainage system is a single structure, the elements of which are designed to collect, pass and accumulate excess water. If you exclude even one structural element, drainage will worsen and gradually disappear.

What does the system consist of?:

1. Drains with a diameter of 100–180 mm;
2. Inspection/drainage wells (240–360 mm);
3. Absorption well (may not exist);
4. The collector, the final link of the chain. This is where the water coming from all the pipes in the area accumulates.

Comparative characteristics of drainage pipes

Pipes for soil drainage, due to their porous surface, have absorbing ability, justifying their purpose. Not all owners of private housing construction have special equipment or the opportunity to order it. For them, it is of great importance to be able to work with such material with their own hands, without expending enormous physical effort.

What types of pipes can be used:

1. Asbestos-cement;
2. Ceramic;
3. Polymer - polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), low-density polyethylene (HDPE);
4. Perfocor - high-modulus polyethylene + minerals. Two-layer (diameter 110, 160, 200 mm). Perforated over the entire surface are used for deep drainage, with perforation of only the upper part - for drainage of water.

It is necessary to take into account the weight of the material, the ease of cutting the required fragments to the required length, the convenient connection of the segments and, of course, the cost. As a rule, instead of pipes from the times of prehistoric materialism, plastic analogues are most often chosen.

Asbestos-cement

Asbestos-cement BNT drains are suitable for areas with a groundwater depth of up to 2.5 m. But now it is unlikely that there will be a person who agrees to use bulky heavy pipes from the era of prehistoric materialism. They can only be moved with the help of cranes + the selfless work of professionals. The service life of such drains is from 30 to 35 years.

Advantages of asbestos cement pipes:

Perhaps one thing is that they are not afraid of frost, fire, or aggressive environments.

Flaws:

1. Having calculated the service life + the cost of installation work, it becomes clear that such pipes will cost more;
2. Rough inner surface silts up quickly;
3. Heavy. For example, BNT-100 with a length of 3950 mm weighs just over 23 kg;
4. High price - 1 piece. about 500 rubles.

Ceramic

Natural material brings to mind the right thoughts about the environmental purity of the world around us. But clay drains are not wildly popular among ordinary people either - the material is heavy, fragile and requires increased attention.

What are the benefits of ceramics?:

1. The internal smooth surface does not silt for a long time;
2. Service life up to 50 years;
3. Environmentally friendly material.

Flaws:

1. The length of the segments is small - up to 1500 mm, which means many joints requiring rubber seals and sealant. As a result, high installation costs + high cost of the drains themselves;
2. Geofabric does not adhere to a smooth surface;
3. Afraid of frost, additional insulation is required.

Plastic

Lightweight, inexpensive material without any special problems has become commonplace. Working with plastic drainage pipes with your own hands is much more pleasant than working with their classic counterparts.

Polymer pipes differ:

1. Structurally - one- and two-layer. With/without filter coating;
2. In terms of strength, corrugated ones have a higher rigidity class, designated by the SN index. The higher the index, the greater the depth of the pipe, for example, SN2 - 2 m, SN4 - 3 m, SN 6 - 4 m, SN16 - more than 10 m;
3. Release form: reels of 40–50 m (flexible), lengths of 6 and 12 m (rigid).

Advantages of plastic drains:

1. Some have a ready-made filter winding - geosynthetic polyester material made from staple fibers, commonly called geotextiles/geofabrics (does not decompose); coke fiber (decomposes);
2. Resistant to aggressive environments and corrosion;
3. Relatively cheap;
4. Light (the weight of a 50-meter bay is from 13 to 55 kg);
5. Moderate cost - from 70 to 7000 rubles/linear. m.;
6. The integrity of the structure is maintained during soil displacement.
7. Most long term service - from 50 years and longer.

Flaw- the need to use corner units/fittings in the design.

Wells, their functions

There are several types of wells in the system, some of which are mandatory, while others can be dispensed with. The well is a corrugated/smooth-walled shaft (pipe). Its bottom has through/tee inlets for drains located perpendicular to the body.

The instructions prescribe the height of the inlet holes relative to the bottom to be at least 40 cm. The neck of the well is closed with a decorative lid.

Types of wells:

1. Rotatable/viewing- located at pipeline turns or connects several pipes. In some classifications, these wells are considered separately, although they perform the same functions;

Wells have design features, differ in size. For the rotary one, a corrugated pipe d 100–460 mm is often used; for the viewing one, a plastic container with an inlet hole of at least 1000 mm is used so that a person can go inside for maintenance.

1. Absorption/immersion- installed pointwise (the drainage system is not assembled) at a low point/points on the site. The diameter of the service neck must be sufficient for a person to get inside;

1. Collector- a fairly large container that can accommodate the contents of drainage pipes and storm sewers. If the site borders on no-man's land and the terrain decreases, the drainage ditch is located outside the border of the site.

Popular manufacturers of pipes, fittings, manholes and components:

1. InstalPlast (Poland);
2. FD Plast, RODLEX, Rostok, Polypipes (Russia).
3. Wavin (Czech Republic).

The price variability - from 1000 to 8000 rubles, light weight, minimum work - speaks in favor of installing a factory well. A well made of concrete rings and bricks will increase the cost of material, special transport, and mortar.

Installation of wells: Subtleties

For the inspection well, a fragment of a corrugated pipe is used, in the lower part of which holes are cut for drains. The bottom is glued with waterproof mastic or other special means. The pipe is connected to the body using rubber seals. The turn signal is installed on a cushion of sand and crushed stone, and the sides are sprinkled with crushed stone.

Installing an absorption well is more labor-intensive; most often, reinforced concrete rings are used for it, which require certain skills or the help of specialists. The depth of the structure exceeds the freezing level of the soil, and the diameter depends on the degree of water loss of the soil - the lower it is, the wider the well.

If necessary, additional wells are drilled into the base to reach a layer of earth capable of absorbing water. The well is lined with a perforated metal pipe that can withstand soil movements. This pipe protrudes from the well to a height of 0.5–0.7 m. The bottom of the structure is covered with a layer of granite crushed stone.

The drainage pit for water drainage is made of reinforced concrete rings or stone with sealed joints. Installing a ready-made PVC collector is faster and cheaper. In this case, a flat, clean base is of great importance - protrusions, pits and sharp objects can damage the body. The best option would be a cement base; the sides are sprinkled with a sand-gravel mixture, tamping each layer.

The main rules for laying drainage

The rules for laying the drainage system are based primarily on elementary logic. For example, a slope towards the collector is necessary so that water flows away and does not stagnate in the drains.

The layer of geofabric that separates the structure from the ground and the coating of pipes play the role of additional filters and insulation. Storm drains are a separate structure with its own specifics.

Open system

The most in a simple way is an open horizontal drainage - the famous ditch 700 mm deep, 500 mm wide with a 30° bevel of the side walls. To prevent the edges from swimming, half the trench is filled with large crushed stone, and the top with small crushed stone. You can disguise the stones with turf, but the functionality of the ditch will sharply decrease.

Crushed stone filling turns the ditch into something resembling a garden path that can be used in decorative purposes in the garden. As an option, the structure is camouflaged with artificial turf. A trench can be a temporary option until deep drainage is installed.

Closed drainage

How to drain rainwater? Rains can bring down the monthly norm of cages in a few days. An overflowing drain will saturate the ground with it instead of collecting water. If waterlogged loam freezes in the fall, the foundation and blind area may swell, and the wet basement will “bloom” with spots of mold.

Storm water equipment:

1. Smooth-walled sewer PVC pipes d 110–200 mm;
2. Sand catchers are 2-in-1 plastic containers. The inner container is removed to remove accumulated sand, leaves and twigs;
3. Decorative grille covering the openings of the sand traps;

It is not necessary to dig a separate trench for the storm drain; the pipes can be laid parallel to the drainage pipes.

The next option for storm drainage is shallow concrete gutters into which plastic trays of appropriate height are inserted. The joints between the trays are sealed, and the top along the entire length of the trays is covered with gratings. The water flows into a well or is discharged outside the site if conditions permit.

You can check the finished storm drain by pouring a bucket of water into each gutter. It should drain into a bucket suspended in the well. If the amount of poured and collected water coincides, it means that the slope has been maintained and the system is ready for operation.

Deep drainage

This type of drainage is used to dry the soil or create an optimal moisture regime for plant roots. In the first case, the drains are located below the groundwater level.

In the second, the deepening of the pipes is averaged and depends on the type of green space. For a garden, the average depth for a pipe is 1.5 m, for flower beds - 0.9 m.

System installation:

1. Make a drainage plan. The location of drains will depend on the terrain;
2. Trenches are laid (usually with a shovel) with an average width of 40 cm. The depth in each case depends on the groundwater level;
3. Line the inside of the trench with geotextile, pinning it along the edges with sticks/chips.

1. Install inspection wells at turns;
2. A layer of crushed stone/construction waste, permeable to water, 5–10 cm thick, is placed at the bottom of the ditch and leveled;
3. A pipe for the ditch is laid on the crushed stone, a fitting connection is made between the side drains and the main pipeline, with inspection wells and a collector;
4. The structure is covered from the sides and top with the next layer of crushed stone in a layer of 10–15 cm;
5. The edges of the geofabric are placed one on top of the other, wrapping the buried pipe.

Before filling the trench, it is advisable to check the functionality of the drainage. After a good rain, it will become clear how well the water drains. If there are flaws in the work, they will need to be corrected.

Summarizing

Now you know that ditches, ditches, holes and trenches can be extremely useful: the problems of damp basements, rain puddles and stunted trees will disappear. If any points in the article seemed difficult, watch the video: I hope it will help you figure it out.

Drainage systems sewers perform extremely important functions– drain excess water from the site. The drainage, as a rule, is organized outside, into a ditch, the nearest outlet of the central storm sewer, etc.

On private plots, ditches along the perimeter of the driveway are still common. They do have their advantages. In this article, we will tell you how you can put a pipe in a ditch at the entrance, that is, to form a kind of tunnel for wastewater, leaving the possibility of free passage of equipment to the site.

Contents of the article

Main nuances

The ditch along the perimeter of the road performs very important functions. It is into it that water from rain or melted snow flows, freeing the road from precipitation.

In villages and areas remote from the city, organizing a central drainage system for wastewater, especially atmospheric wastewater, is expensive and difficult, so people make do with more practical options.

The ditches also become a kind of drain, collecting all excess water from both the road and the site itself. The only problem is the passage of equipment and the general connection of the site with the road.

To do this, it is necessary to organize a bridge strong enough to support the car. And not only passenger cars, but also cargo ones. Nobody knows what you may need in the future.

For such tasks, a pipe is placed in a ditch. They also say that they place a pipe in the ditch for the drive, that is, they organize a bridge with a pipe integrated into it, which will not interfere with the flow of liquid through the ditch.

You need to place the pipe for the ditch on the drive in the correct way. And before that, you need to choose the ideal material, otherwise the pipe for the ditch for the drive will either not withstand external pressure, or will simply collapse over time (not too long).

Material selection

Pipes for a ditch loaded from above are selected according to several basic characteristics. They must have a sufficient level of ring rigidity. It doesn't matter that a concrete bridge will likely be poured over the ditch. Concrete only distributes and transmits loads, but it cannot completely eliminate them.

Not to mention the fact that concrete structures with such small dimensions are, in principle, not capable of anything more than transmitting load-bearing forces.

Also, the pipes for the ditch must be made durable. They are constantly in, let's say, unfavorable conditions. Dampness, water, wet soil, a huge number of bacteria, constant freezing cycles - this is only a small part of all working conditions. Therefore, it is necessary to choose carefully, taking into account the characteristics of future operation.

The most popular and sought-after options include the following samples:

• steel;
• concrete;
• plastic.

Steel as a material for drainage pipelines is not the best choice. Especially taking into account today's realities and the presence of a huge number of plastic analogues. However, before it was used almost everywhere. The steel perfectly withstands external loads and has a sufficient level of ring rigidity.

Being subject to corrosion, it still retains its working appearance for decades, and for drainage channels no more is required.

Concrete channels are the second most popular option. With concrete everything is clear. It is easily mined, relatively cheap, and has excellent corrosion resistance.

It is advisable to purchase reinforced concrete products. They are now a generally recognized standard, and are very much in demand as pipes for driveway ditch.

An analogue of concrete can be asbestos cement, a formerly popular material used on large construction sites. Nowadays, asbestos-cement pipes are out of use, but they are still available in abundance and are sold cheaply.

Plastic corrugated pipes

If we talk about modern products, then it is certainly the best option. This implies a corrugated model. It should be considered in more detail.

Plastic, as you probably already know, has made a real breakthrough in the construction industry. This is especially true for plumbing. For all its lightness and cheapness, it is durable, has good rigidity, and is not susceptible to external influences.

This applies to both small-sized pipes intended for internal use, and large ones.

Corrugated polymer models also belong to the class of large pipeline products. They are called corrugated due to the outer frame made of curved plastic ribs. The ribs make it possible to form a kind of protective skeleton, increasing the annular rigidity of the structure several times.

Corrugated pipeline products must be produced according to special technology, it is worth noting that they are quite expensive, so they are produced mainly for external use and only in large diameters.

The standard plastic one with a corrugated body consists of two layers. The outer layer is a layer of high-strength corrugated plastic, the inner layer is smooth coating that does not interfere with the passage of waste water.

The advantages of such products also include ease of installation. You don't need to waste time attracting equipment, people, deploying a crane, etc. Laying corrugated pipes for ditches is made by hand. It is enough to have several assistants.

While concrete structures, even relatively small ones, can be installed with suspended equipment and sufficient experience.

Laying pipes in a ditch (video)

Installation

Let's consider the technology of laying pipes for drainage ditches. Here you need to follow several rules and strictly follow the instructions.

Stages of work:

1. We dig a trench up to 1 meter deep with sloped walls.
2. Compact the soil at the bottom.
3. Making a sand pillow.
4. We install the pipe on the pillow.
5. We fill the ditch with sand.
6. We install a crushed stone cushion on top. It is advisable to take crushed stone with granite chips of the middle fraction.
7. Lay a layer of geotextile.
8. We install the formwork for the upper concrete frame.
9. We pour concrete.
10. We lay the outer decorative layer or asphalt covering.

It is advisable to act in order and not ignore any of the points. After all, each of them is very important.

Thus, the presence of a sand cushion protects the outer layer of the pipe from damage, premature freezing, etc. It also fills gaps between ditch walls and drainage channel boundaries well. It is very important to make sure that the water will flow through the pipe and not past it.

The presence of a layer of crushed stone stabilizes the substrate and becomes a kind of stabilizer.

Geotextiles distribute loads from future concrete preparation, while fastening the base underneath. It also prevents water from directly seeping into the crushed stone and eroding it.

With a concrete structure on top of geotextiles, I think everything is clear. Her task is load distribution. There is no need to fill it in manually. If you have, for example, an abandoned floor slab, you can safely mount it. The main thing is that the material is in good condition.

Theoretically, you can do without it, replacing it with a thick layer of well-compacted soil and high-quality asphalt pavement, but in practice such bridges are seriously inferior to reinforced concrete ones in terms of strength and durability.