Installation solid board is quite specific and labor-intensive, so even if you are a “jack of all trades,” it would be better to entrust this work experienced specialists. However, it is useful to know the basic nuances of installation: this will allow you to control the quality of work and protect against possible problems with the floor in the future, because most flooring defects arise precisely because of improper installation.
Solid boards can only be laid using rigid fastening to the base using self-tapping screws and glue. This is a reliable and time-tested method that allows you to obtain a stable “monolithic” floor and then repeatedly carry out repair sanding (one of the advantages of solid boards). However, rigid fastening places increased demands on the base and installation quality. And preparation for the installation of a massive board begins long before its purchase.
Preparing the premises
Flooring installation is one of the final stages repair. How less work remains to be done after laying the floor, the less chance there is of accidentally damaging it. All wet work indoors must be completed at least two months before installation begins. The relative air humidity in the room should be between 40% and 60%, and the temperature should be from +18 to +24 degrees Celsius. Solid board is sensitive to parameters environment, therefore it is necessary to strictly maintain them within the given limits.
Preparing the base
Arranging the base of the floor is a responsible and scrupulous process, and all subsequent operation of the solid board depends on its quality. Many problems with wooden floors (for example, creaking floorboards) arise precisely because of a poorly executed base.
The concrete base for the flooring must be dry, level, hard and clean (free from dust). The humidity of the concrete screed should be within 2-3%. Already at 3-4% humidity it is necessary to use a primer under the adhesive. Permissible curvature of the base: no more than 2 mm per 2 m2 area. Curvature is checked using the two-meter rule or spirit level (“level”). Any differences greater than 2 mm must be eliminated.
There are different ways of laying solid boards (for example, on logs - a method popular in the times piece parquet), but for the Russian climate Amber Wood recommends installation on plywood sheets. To the prepared concrete base plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm is laid. Plywood is sawn into small sheets (no more than 0.5 m x 0.5 m in size), onto which glue is applied, after which they are attached with dowel nails to the concrete base. It is necessary to leave technological gaps of 3-5 mm between the sheets.
After two days, the plywood is sanded, during which the differences between the sheets are also eliminated (the curvature requirements here are the same as for concrete). After sanding, it is advisable to prime the plywood to remove fine dust.
The presence of any type of heating in the base is unacceptable: a “warm floor” will lead to rapid damage to the solid board.
Humidity control
Natural wood floors place increased demands on humidity not only during operation, but also during installation.
The moisture content of the concrete screed is checked with a special device - moisture meter for concrete, and the relative air humidity in the room is hygrometer. There are advanced moisture meters that can also measure environmental humidity. But a wood moisture meter is not suitable for measuring the moisture content of concrete, even if you set the maximum density of the material in the settings. A high-quality moisture meter is an expensive device, but specialists involved in laying parquet products must have it. If the installers did not measure humidity before starting work, then this is a serious “red flag” that calls into question their qualifications. As for the hygrometer, it is a fairly simple household appliance that is useful to purchase for home use. It will allow you to constantly monitor the relative humidity in the room, which is important for both the health and durability of the wooden floor. There are beautiful wall-mounted hygrometers on sale that will fit perfectly into any interior.
Preparing solid boards
The purchased solid board (delivered in packs, packed in polyethylene) must be allowed to sit for a week in the room where the installation will be carried out so that the wood “gets used” to the conditions of temperature and humidity. At the same time, it is important to resist the desire to immediately open and inspect the delivered boards: it is better to unpack the packs immediately before laying. Then it will be possible to carry out troubleshooting. Never lay boards that are defective or damaged during transportation: they can be replaced or returned, but only before installation begins.
Installation
Typically, a solid board is laid along the incident light (perpendicular to the window), so the floor looks most harmonious. However, if the base is made of wooden flooring, then the floor must be laid across the base boards. “Designer” laying at an angle of 45o is also possible, but it entails excessive consumption of material and a very large number of trimmings.
The solid board is attached to the plywood base by continuous gluing with a two-component adhesive, which is applied with a special notched trowel.
Additionally, the board is fixed using parquet screws, which are screwed into the base of the ridge at an angle of 45° in increments of 20-30 cm (their caps will hide the boards of the adjacent row). You cannot attach a solid board with glue alone; self-tapping screws are necessary in any case!
The installation of the first row of boards is carried out with a groove to the wall, and fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out through the front surface (so that when installing the baseboards, the caps are hidden). During laying, adjacent boards are tightly joined in the transverse and longitudinal directions, if necessary, they are tapped with a rubber hammer and pulled together with wedges.
During the installation process, you will probably have to go around various obstacles: for example, heating pipes. In this case, using a jigsaw with a fine file, the sections necessary for bending are cut out in the board, taking into account the compensation gap.
Compensation gap
Due to seasonal fluctuations in temperature and humidity, a wooden floor expands and contracts, so it is necessary to leave a technological gap (compensation gap) of at least 10 mm between the wall and the adjacent solid board. During the installation process, the gaps are fixed with wedges, and upon completion of the work they are hidden with plinths.
An expansion gap is required not only next to the walls, but also next to any other static structures into which the flooring may rest against when expanding. This door frames, heating pipes, ventilation ducts, pillars and columns, as well as furniture with rigid attachment to the floor (wardrobes, safes, etc.).
Takeoff
Take-off run, i.e. shifting the joint between the boards relative to the adjacent row is a necessary technique both from an aesthetic point of view and from a technological one. The same principle can be observed, for example, in brickwork. For a reliable connection, it is recommended to maintain a separation distance of at least 40 cm.
For convenience, a shift of 1/2 or 1/3 of the length of the board is usually used. For example, laying the first row and all subsequent odd rows begins with a whole board, and the second and all subsequent even rows begin with a half or third sawn. Thanks to this, the floor pattern will be neat and symmetrical, and the connection will be strong.
But sometimes you want to deliberately get away from symmetry, especially when laying “Country” type parquet with a pronounced wood pattern and intricate texture. A geometrically adjusted symmetrical run in this case may look boring and inappropriate. For a variegated floor, you can use a run-up without repetition, when the joints of the boards are different rows are not on the same line. The main thing is to maintain a displacement of at least 40 cm relative to the previous row.
Laying the last row and finishing the work
Before laying the last row, it is necessary to measure the distance remaining to the wall: most likely, it will differ in different places due to the curvature of the walls. Therefore, each board of the row must be sawn lengthwise to the required width at the place where it is installed (not forgetting the compensation gap). When installing the last row, there is very little space left to work with. To lay boards near the wall, it is convenient to use a special mounting paw.
The last row of solid boards, like the first, is fastened with self-tapping screws through the front surface. After installation is completed, it is necessary to hide the expansion gaps and screw heads with a plinth or fillet of suitable width.
Typically, solid boards are supplied with a decorative and protective coating already applied at the factory. However, if it still needs to be applied, then this can be done no earlier than 2-3 days after the installation is completed: first, the boards must rest and the glue must fully harden.
Compliance with installation technology is the key to long and reliable operation of the floor covering. A responsible approach to the installation of solid boards in the future will allow you to fully enjoy the benefits of a natural wooden floor and not have problems with it.
Solid boards are strong and durable flooring materials. Outwardly, they look like parquet, but that’s where their similarities end. The main difference is in the structure. The basis of solid boards is natural wood. Due to this, the material is different high performance and presentable appearance.
Solid wood products are installed exclusively at the last stage of repair work. It is recommended to install them after work has been done to prepare the subfloor, install windows and doors, and putty the walls. It is necessary that the primer, putty on the walls and plaster on the ceiling dry thoroughly before starting installation work.
When installing the material, it is important to maintain a certain level of humidity in the room. Its optimal value is no more than 60%. The installation process of products depends on the base on which they are placed. The technology of laying solid boards has its own nuances.
Characteristics of the product and rules for its selection
Solid boards are made with grooves and ridges at the edges. Thanks to this, the products fit tightly together. There is a chamfer on the outside of solid boards. For this reason, after laying a solid board, small distances arise between the joints. These areas are filled when various damage to the material occurs.
The strength of the material is due to the fact that on the inside of the boards there are transverse notches and longitudinal cuts. Thanks to them, the material experiences minimal stress, and the tension of its fibers is reduced. The minimum length of the products is 50 cm, and the maximum is 3 m. The width of a solid board can be from 12 to 20 cm.
Several types of wood are used as the basis for solid wood. The place of origin of the wood does not greatly influence the technology of laying the material on the floor. Greater value has the type of room where the boards are supposed to be placed, and their color. When choosing solid boards, the moisture content of the wood from which they are made is of decisive importance.
The optimal value is considered to be 9% humidity. The maximum allowed value is 12%. A product that is too wet dries out quickly after installation, resulting in gaps appearing between the boards and the connections between them becoming weak.
Types of material
The following wood is used to make solid boards:
- European;
- exotic;
- domestic.
European wood is represented by larch, alder, beech, and ash. These are light breeds. Exotic species include sucupira, hevea, and elm. Oak flooring products are highly durable.
Properties of oak
Its resistance to deformation is higher than that of beech. Oak and ash are excellent as coverings for hallways and corridors where there is constant load on the floor. Solid oak boards withstand temperature changes and humidity changes well.
- kempas;
- kerangi;
- camsha;
- guarea;
- Yarra;
- tompling.
Light-colored species do not tolerate high humidity well, and products made from pears and cherries are considered the most problematic to use. Boards made from such wood require constant monitoring of indoor humidity.
There are several methods by which the array is laid:
- on a screed made of concrete or a mixture of cement and concrete;
- on plywood;
- onto an existing wooden floor.
The first option is used most often. Installation of boards is carried out using glue that can withstand high temperatures. The method of laying on a screed made of concrete or a mixture of cement and concrete is suitable for cases where a heating system is to be installed on the future floor.
Before installation, it is necessary to check the quality of the screed for damage. Special attention must be paid to the moisture level of concrete. The normal humidity level is no more than 6%. If it is exceeded, then it will be necessary to cover the concrete with a waterproofing film.
How to mount on plywood?
Laying solid boards on plywood has its own characteristics. The moisture content of the plywood base should be no more than 10%. Before installation, plywood sheets are cut into squares or rectangles measuring 50 by 70 cm.
The sheets are fixed to the concrete base with glue, additionally ensuring a tight fit due to dowels. The edges plywood sheets secured with a pneumatic gun with 30 cm long pins.
The laid plywood tiles are thoroughly cleaned and sanded. Solid boards laid on such a base do not require sanding. What matters is the condition of the screed and the tightness of the plywood sheets to the base.
Uncleaned screed and poorly secured plywood sheets lead to disruption of the integrity of the floor and discoloration of the solid material.
The array is also attached to the existing wooden floor. It is important that the old coating does not have cracks or sagging. Before installation, you will need to check the floor for strength and clean it with a sanding machine.
Particular care must be taken to remove the old varnish coating, if any. After cleaning the surface of the old base, you can proceed to laying the array. It is placed in the same direction as the old base.
Laying solid oak boards
Other methods of laying solid wood
In addition to those indicated, apply alternative ways laying solid wood:
- floating method;
- on an adhesive backing;
- on the logs.
If a floating installation of solid boards is used, then it is necessary to control the base and boards. They must be separated from each other. Fastening is carried out using dies of massive boards. It is important that the massive material is not combined with the main coating. If the technology is followed correctly, the floor will withstand severe loads and changes in humidity.
The floating method is ideal for installing floors with underfloor heating. As fasteners for such a floor, it is recommended to use special self-tapping screws with an additional protective coating that prevents the development of corrosion.
The option of mounting on an adhesive backing is considered a new method.
Adhesive backing helps with installation solid wood
It became widespread thanks to the advent of elastinol. This is a one-sided adhesive backing that prevents excessive swelling of the array. It has a number of other advantages:
- has good sound insulation;
- ensures the invisibility of joints between arrays;
- does not require the use of staples or glue during installation;
- ensures heat retention in the room.
Installation of the substrate is not difficult. The substrate is laid on a pre-prepared concrete base with its adhesive side facing the bowls. Then the wooden blocks are laid.
Working with lags
Installing arrays on logs is considered a convenient way when you need to make the floor layer even in a short time. Logs are actively used in the reconstruction of buildings, as well as in the creation of podiums in apartments and offices. For this purpose, logs made of beams are used. A polyethylene-based waterproofing coating is placed under the joists. Penofol is also used as waterproofing.
Installation of the base occurs according to the following scheme:
- parallel laying of logs at opposite walls;
- tensioning the threads at intervals of 1.4 m;
- fixing lags along the threads;
- filling the areas between the joists with insulation;
- wood-fiber cloth is laid on top of the logs;
- A massive parquet board is laid on top of the canvas layer.
General installation rules
Solid wood floor boards are laid using a specific technology, which includes the following procedure:
- thorough drying of the floor base;
- creating a flooring from plywood sheets of standard sizes that are highly resistant to moisture and durable;
- laying sheets with a small gap on the base with the obligatory fastening of them with self-tapping screws and dowels (if necessary, glue plywood);
- sanding the laid plywood with a special machine;
- cleaning plywood from dirt and dust;
- laying the array starting from the wall, with a small gap of 7 mm;
- laying the first rows of solid boards without glue with markings to simplify further installation;
- the use of exclusively waterless two-component glue as an adhesive for the array;
- use of regular and notched spatulas when applying glue to the base;
- Having laid massive boards, it is necessary to secure them with screws, for which a pneumatic stapler is used.
After completing the work, you will need to wait until the floor dries.
ABOUT An obvious fact is that covering the floor with small parquet blocks will take much longer than laying a massive board made of a layer of wood. Why, for hundreds of years, builders could not replace a dozen small planks with one large one? It is unlikely that carpenters did not know how to lay a massive board, since the construction of wide products by gluing individual boards was done back in Ancient Greece.
Let's try to figure out why solid wood began to be used as a floor covering only recently, what it is, and, finally, how to lay solid wood with your own hands.
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What is a massive board?
This elite type of flooring perfectly illustrates the statement that what simpler material, the more difficult and more expensive technology for its mass release.
A solid board is simply a plate of hard wood with groove-and-tenon milling along the edges, allowing many such plates to be tightly joined into a single covering. Laying a solid board with your own hands is no more difficult than laying or.
The difficulty of manufacturing lies in the fact that, firstly, the board must be hard enough to resist abrasion and mechanical stress. Secondly, maintain its shape during fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Thirdly, it should have an attractive appearance, and, finally, laying solid boards should be possible even for an ordinary carpenter.
This is achieved by:
- Special form. To relieve internal stress, the board has longitudinal cuts on the bottom side - “breaths”.
- Treating wood with varnish, oil or oil-wax mastics, increasing its mechanical resistance. It is equally important that this treatment reveals the natural texture of the wood.
- A special drying technology does not create internal stresses in the wood, making it even possible to lay solid boards on.
Massive board with “breaths”
To improve the aesthetic qualities of floors made from this material, it is subjected to additional decorative processing.
The board is lightened or, on the contrary, tinted, covered with special ones that do not hide the natural pattern, and artificially aged. Their surfaces are treated with steel brushes (brushing), sharpening, sandblasting, etc. give a different texture. And the production of boards of various lengths allows you to lay out various geometric patterns by laying solid boards.
Laying solid boards on a heated floor
Solid boards are used quite rarely in combination with heated floors, since due to their considerable thickness, they are a good heat insulator.
The process of laying solid boards is technologically complex and responsible, errors in which can subsequently lead to deformation of the parquet and the need to replace it.
The price of laying solid boards
| № | Name | Note | Price | Unit | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Dismantling the previous floor without saving | Linoleum, carpet without glue / with glue | Great Dane | sq.m | ||
| Parquet board, panel parquet | Great Dane | sq.m | ||||
| Piece | no glue | Great Dane | sq.m | |||
| parquet | adhesive | Great Dane | sq.m | |||
| Logs, boards | Great Dane | sq.m | ||||
| Screed, tiles | Great Dane | sq.m | ||||
| 2 | Removing waste (flooring, etc.) while the freight elevator is running | Parquet board, panel parquet, laminate | Great Dane | sq.m | ||
| Screed, tiles, construction garbage | Great Dane | sq.m | ||||
| 3 | Cleaning the base | From glue | Great Dane | sq.m | ||
| From bitumen ( bitumen mastic) | Great Dane | sq.m | ||||
| 4 | Leveling the floor | Local (self-leveling mixture) | Great Dane | sq.m | ||
| General (Vetonit 3000 mixture) up to 4mm | 600 | sq.m | ||||
| General (Vetonit 4100 mixture) from 5 to 15mm | 600 | sq.m | ||||
| 5 | Base primer | Under mixture or under glue | 75 | sq.m | ||
| Vapor barrier 2K primer | 100 | sq.m | ||||
| 6 | Laying plywood | adhesive sawn 300x300mm with 2K glue | 250 | sq.m | ||
| 2 layers of glue, second layer of glue + self-tapping screw | 500 | sq.m | ||||
| on logs in 1 layer | 250 | sq.m | ||||
| on logs in 2 layers | 500 | sq.m | ||||
| 7 | Installation of logs | Fastening to the floor with anchors | 750 | sq.m | ||
| 8 | Multi-moll installation | Gluing to the base with 2-glue | 200 | sq.m | ||
| 9 | Laying boards coated with varnish/oil | Direct to plywood | from 850 | sq.m | ||
| Diagonal on plywood | from 950 | sq.m | ||||
| Direct to screed | 1000 | sq.m | ||||
| Diagonal on screed | 1200 | sq.m | ||||
| 10 | Cutting to heating convectors in the floor | 1000 | linear meters | |||
| 11 | Inserting a hatch, lamp, etc. | 1500 | PC. | |||
| 12 | Installation of a cork compensator | 1000 | linear meters | |||
| 13 | Laying a vapor barrier film on the base | for floating floor | 100 | sq.m | ||
| 14 | Parquet sanding (machines: belt, surface, angular) without taking into account the cost of consumables | New parquet | Tape + surface grinder+ corner | 550 | sq.m | |
| Old parquet | 600 | sq.m | ||||
| Plywood | during our installation | 200 | sq.m | |||
| when styling someone else | 250 | sq.m | ||||
| 15 | Sealing seams around the perimeter | insulation of parquet from wall moisture | 75 | linear meters | ||
| 16 | Parquet varnishing | 3 layers (or primer + 2 layers of mat varnish) | 200 | sq.m | ||
| Each additional layer | 75 | sq.m | ||||
| Extra charge for applying gloss varnish | 150 | sq.m | ||||
| 17 | Gel coating between layers of varnish | Fills chamfers, sags, depressions | 150 | linear meters | ||
| 18 | Oil coating | Colorless (1 layer) | 150 | sq.m | ||
| Colorless (2 layers) | 300 | sq.m | ||||
| Colored or with colorant (1 layer) | 300 | sq.m | ||||
| Colored or with colorant (2 layers) | 600 | sq.m | ||||
| Renewal with colorless oil (1 layer) | 200 | sq.m | ||||
| Renewal with oil and colorant (1 layer) | 300 | sq.m | ||||
| 19 | Installation of skirting boards | plastic, veneer, MDF up to 70mm high | 250 | linear meters | ||
| solid wood, LDF, PPU up to 70mm high | 350 | linear meters | ||||
| veneer, MDF height >70 to 100mm | 350 | linear meters | ||||
| solid wood, LDF, PPU height >70mm to 100mm | 400 | linear meters | ||||
| height more than 100mm | Great Dane | |||||
| bent, installation in segments | Great Dane | |||||
| 20 | Installation of thresholds and moldings | Length up to 1 lm. | 1000 | PC. | ||
| More than 1 running meter long. | 1000 | linear meters | ||||
| 21 | Loading work | When the elevator is running | P/d, laminate, piece parquet, floor cork | Great Dane | box | |
| Plywood | Great Dane | sheet | ||||
| Dry mixes | Great Dane | bag | ||||
| No elevator per floor | P/d, laminate, block parquet, cork, chemistry | Great Dane . | pack | |||
| Plywood | Great Dane | sheet | ||||
| Dry mixes | Great Dane | bag | ||||
| 22 | Covering floors after installation | Batting + fiberboard (without cost of materials) | 100 | sq.m | ||
| Cardboard (without the cost of materials) | 75 | sq.m | ||||
| 23 | Removing furniture and other items | Great Dane | ||||
| 24 | Consumables and fasteners | Consumables and fasteners | 50 | sq.m | ||
| when laying and sanding block parquet | 200 | sq.m | ||||
| 25 | Visit of a technologist (drawing up a technological map of work and estimates) within the Moscow Ring Road | 2000 | PC. | |||
| 26 | Consulting work of our foreman at the site, control over the implementation of work technology | 5000 | departure | |||
Minimum scope of work 20 sq.m. (for a smaller volume of work, the cost of work is calculated per 20 sq.m.).
The main thing to remember is that solid boards cannot be laid on “warm floors”, hot water supply and heating routes. In addition, such a floor cannot be laid in a room where the microclimate is characterized by high humidity (except for certain types of wood), for example: in a bathhouse, sauna, swimming pool.
Basic technological stages laying solid wood:
- Checking the base for compliance with the requirements (GosT and SNIP)
- Base primer
- Laying plywood
- Laying solid boards
What can you lay a solid board on? Types of bases for parquet
There are several types of bases for parquet, which in one case or another must be used:
Cement-sand screed(most common).
The main condition is that the base must be dry. The percentage of moisture in the base cannot exceed 4%. Also, the base must be sufficiently hard, durable and not subject to peeling and deformation changes. There should be no differences of more than 2 mm at the base over 2 m. With an ideal temperature/humidity ratio (humidity from 40 to 60% and temperature from 20 to 25 degrees), with a concrete screed layer thickness of up to 50 mm, it will dry for at least 30 days.
Laying on such a floor cannot yet be carried out; reinforced concrete panels, in fact, represent a “bare” floor. Initially, such a base needs to be leveled, best with a cement-sand screed or using wooden logs.
Plank base made of wood-based materials.
It is a high-quality laid wooden floor (maybe the same parquet). Since such a coating may not be suitable for aesthetic reasons, it can be used as a base for parquet (if the permissible planned height and quality of laying the wooden base itself allows). Before using such a base, it is necessary to carefully check it, and also eliminate defects in the form of creaks, swaying, etc.
Wooden logs.
As a rule, logs are dried bars with dimensions from 30x30 to 120x120 mm, depending on the individuality of the apartment or house. The logs are laid at a distance of 300-400 mm diagonally relative to the chosen direction of laying the parquet. Then they are leveled and drilled with special dowels to the base. The result is the so-called “honeycomb”. In the future, if desired, insulation, expanded clay, can be placed in the honeycombs, which will allow you to insulate your floor.
Next, moisture-resistant plywood is installed on the offset joists, which is drilled with self-tapping screws. On top of the first layer of plywood base, another layer of plywood is laid offset in a checkerboard pattern (glued and screwed together with self-tapping screws), also relative to the bottom layer. Solid wood parquet is glued on top of the resulting structure.
Checking the base for compliance with the requirements (GosT and SNIP).
Before proceeding directly to laying the floor itself, it is necessary to check the base using special equipment for compliance with the requirements of GOST and SNIP. Our company’s employees take a more responsible approach to the issue of accepting the base, since this is the “weakest link” of the “parquet pie”, so our requirements are a little tougher. The exact requirements can be found in the table below.
"Requirements for bases under parquet"
| Base quality indicator | Base type | Limit value | Regulatory document |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flatness | Any | Deviation from flatness up to 2 mm on a base of 2 m | SNiP 3.04.01-87 |
| Slope up to 0.2% of the corresponding room size, but not more than 50 mm | SNiP 3.04.01-87 | ||
| Strength | Cement-sand screed | Compressive strength not less than 150 kg/cm2 (15 MPa) | SNiP 2.03.13-88 |
| Leveling putty, plywood | Peel strength of the top layer is not less than 3.5 N/mm2 (according to the Pressomess device, Germany) |
Standard Parquet Solutions Studio |
|
| Humidity | Reinforced concrete panels | No more than 4% | VSN 9-94 |
| Cement-sand screeds, leveling putties | No more than 5% | VSN 9-94 | |
| 3,5% - 4,0% | Standard Parquet Solutions Studio |
||
| Plank and wood-based materials | No more than 12% | SNiP 3.04.01-87 VSN 9-94 |
|
| Wooden logs | No more than 18% | SNiP 3.04.01-87 | |
| No more than 12% | Standard Parquet Solutions Studio |
||
| Stability | Any | The subsidence of the base should not exceed 1.5 mm under a load of 200 kg | VSN 9-94 |
| Purity | Any | The base must be cleaned of dust, bitumen, mastics and other contaminants | Standard Parquet Solutions Studio |
Base primer
First of all, we clean the screed: remove excess debris, vacuum the dust and you can start priming. We prime the base on top of the screed. It is best to use a two-component primer as it improves adhesion (promotes excellent adhesion of the adhesive).
Laying plywood
The thickness of the plywood to be laid depends on the thickness of the selected solid board. Plywood should be at least 2/3 of the thickness of the plywood strip. For example, on a solid board with a thickness of 20 mm, plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm is suitable.
The plywood for installation is attached to the concrete base using a dowel-nail and glue. Laying is carried out crosswise with offset seams. Between two adjacent sheets of plywood it is necessary to maintain a technological gap of at least 5-10 mm. Along the wall such a gap should be at least 10-15 mm.
The adhesive composition is applied to the screed using a spatula with teeth, which regulates the consumption of glue. For best adhesion of plywood to concrete floor It is recommended to use adhesive with low or no water content. We embed self-tapping screws into the plywood to ensure the possibility of subsequent sanding (so as not to damage expensive parquet sanding equipment). Plywood is a multilayer material and, according to GOST of the Russian Federation, has possible thickness deviations of +/- 1 mm. In order to get a perfectly flat base, we sand the plywood layer - this allows us to even out differences in the base and remove any remaining glue that may be on the surface of the plywood.
"Self-sinking screw in plywood"
Checking the quality of solid boards
Before you start laying solid parquet, you must check the quality of the product. Below we give detailed analysis for quality control.
FAQ on opening packages with solid boards.
2-3 packs from the batch are opened and checked for compliance with technical specifications*:
- Presence of mechanical damage
- Compliance with the manufacturer's stated specifications
- Coating quality
- Wet level
- Compliance with geometric dimensions
*“Basic regulatory requirements for solid wood boards. Permissible deviations in geometry"
If any deficiencies are found, you should immediately stop work and call a representative of the supplier company. As a rule, no more than 3 opened packages will be accepted for a complaint. There is also a defect standard fixed by GOST of the Russian Federation - there cannot be more than 4% of the entire batch.
Laying solid wood parquet
To begin with, the solid board must “adapt” to the room where it is planned to be installed. Especially if the work is planned for winter period. To do this, packs with solid boards must be left for 3-5 days in unopened packages indoors. The packs need to be arranged in a “house”. It is recommended to open the packages only immediately before installation. Laying solid boards is done using glue and self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are screwed in in increments of 15-20 cm. A hole of 3-5 mm in size is made on the side of the tenon, into which the self-tapping screw is screwed (or you can use a self-sinking self-tapping screw, for example, Spax). This procedure is necessary to prevent cracking of the wood of the board when laying it. When laying solid boards, only two-component glue is used, which is applied to the plywood - this avoids premature drying. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that there is a gap along the wall. The first row of the board is placed with the groove against the wall. It is fixed through front side in the place of subsequent installation of the plinth. The last row in the room is installed in the same way. You can use a new solid wood floor within 2-3 days after it has completely dried.
We have tried to sufficiently fully describe the entire process of laying solid wood flooring. As you can see, the process has a large number of nuances and requires a highly qualified layer. From our many years of experience, the only conclusion we can draw is that parquet should only be laid by a parquet floorer (a person who is professionally engaged exclusively in laying wood flooring). Correcting mistakes made during installation is much more difficult than hiring a specialist. Trust this work to professionals! For any questions you may have, please contact our managers!
Now laying solid boards has become easier, faster and cheaper thanks to the emergence of a unique adhesive backing, which has thermal, moisture and noise insulating properties.
Adhesive surface provides good adhesion, and the elastic properties of the substrate do not allow the board to move.
The flooring itself is installed without the use of glue, nails or staples, but requires special skills in installing adhesive materials.
Advantages of laying on an adhesive backing:
- Quick and relatively easy installation
- No glue, plywood, nails
- Saving on installation costs up to 3-5 times
- Excellent thermal, moisture and noise insulation
- Smoothes out uneven surfaces
- Elastic properties prevent the board from moving when seasonal change air humidity
- Service life more than 25 years
The process of laying solid boards in a “floating” manner on an adhesive backing.
An example of laying a solid board in a “floating” manner on a 360º adhesive backing
Requirements to quality floor are simple:
- it should not swell, sag, creak, or “spread apart”
- must be level
- serve without repair for a long time.
Adhesive backing is ideal for this.
Thanks to its unique structure, the adhesive backing has a long service life, levels out minor permissible unevenness of the floor surface and provides an effective and economical solution to the problem of increasing the heat and sound insulation properties of floors.
The underlay is environmentally friendly and retains its properties throughout the life of the floor covering.
P.S. But despite all the advantages of this installation method, we strongly recommend that you still contact specialists and do not install it yourself. Despite the apparent simplicity of installation, installation skills are required in both the “floating” and “classic” methods, and if you are installing for the first time, mistakes simply cannot be avoided.
Select the decor of a solid board for laying on an adhesive backing
View all characteristics of the adhesive half-sheet
Select adhesive backing from the catalog
Preparing the room before laying solid boards
The laying of solid boards is carried out at the final stage of renovation of the premises. This will minimize the risk of damage and deformation. Therefore, work on installing solid wood floors should begin only after windows, doors and walls have been installed, the subfloor has been prepared and all wet work has been completed.
It is very important that the wallpaper, plaster, paint, concrete dry thoroughly, and the humidity in the room does not exceed 40-60%.
At the same time, the humidity of solid boards should not be more than 12%.
However, the last remark about the humidity of a solid board at 12% is purely theoretical, because you still cannot reduce it and this indicator reflects the quality of production.
According to our studies of products on the market, the moisture content of solid oak or ash boards (and other European species) is 12-15%, and for exotic species, the wood of which is processed in tropical countries, about 18%. This is partly why European breeds are initially more stable in our climate.
It is mandatory that all existing air conditioning and heating systems in the room be activated before laying solid wood planks.
The air temperature must be maintained within 18-22 °C for at least seven days before laying the solid boards.
If laying solid boards is planned on the first floor directly above the basement, then it should be thoroughly ventilated.
Requirements for the quality of a subfloor under a solid board
The subfloor on which the parquet boards will be laid must be as level as possible, which can be achieved using leveling sanding.
Maximum tolerance when leveling walls and screeds, it should not be more than 2 mm for every 2 m.
Leveling the subfloor is the most important condition when laying solid boards and any parquet.
If you don't achieve it perfectly flat surface, a solid board will begin to creak in a couple of years due to the movement of the floorboards relative to each other. The creaking of a solid board is always a consequence of an unleveled floor, and not of poor quality material.
It is very important to clean the subfloor of small debris and dirt.
Remove shavings, small nails, debris from it building materials, if possible, dust, grease and glue stains.
The difference in humidity between the subfloor and the solid board laid on top of it should not be more than 4%. In this case, the humidity of the subfloor itself should not exceed 12%. You can achieve the required humidity levels by thoroughly ventilating the room and eliminating possible unwanted sources of moisture.
Sometimes dehumidifiers can help solve this problem.
In addition, it is necessary to ensure that there are no movements in rough floor. If necessary, the subfloor is further strengthened to eliminate them.
How to properly unpack and prepare solid wood for laying
In order to save yourself from unnecessary problems in the future, you should properly unpack and prepare solid boards for installation.
Remember that a solid board already laid by a master is considered accepted for quality and, even if there are defects, cannot be returned.
After the solid board has been unpacked, it should be carefully inspected and sorted by pattern and color, planning in advance how it will be laid on the subfloor.
To create the most harmonious interior set aside the boards that will be the best way match with skirting boards and thresholds, for installation next to them. Determine which boards you will use for cutting and in which specific locations.
The unpacked and sorted solid board must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it is planned to be laid for at least three days.
The same applies to all materials that will be used during the installation of solid wood floors. Their humidity should not exceed 12% (theoretically), and preferably be in the range of 6-10%.
However, it is worth noting that today you cannot find a solid board with a moisture content of 6-10% on the market, even the most expensive and exclusive one. Alas, manufacturers are not ready to slow down production in order to create the ideal material.
Methods for laying solid boards on various types of subfloors
1.
Laying solid boards on concrete floors
First of all, you should form a moisture-vapor barrier that will serve as a buffer between concrete and wood. To do this, a special substrate made of foamed polyethylene, 3 mm thick, can be laid out or a layer of soil mastic can be laid. The finished barrier will ensure the stability of the massive board and protect it from deformation.
After this, a base is laid for the solid board flooring, which can be done in two ways.
The first method is “joists on the screed”.
According to this technology, as a base for a solid board wooden blocks rectangular section - logs. Such bars are attached to the concrete base using dowels and screws, which are inserted perpendicular to the future floor. Alternatively, if there is a danger of damaging those under concrete screed communications, you can glue the logs to adhesive or bitumen-containing mastic.
The distance between the fastening points should be no more than 50 cm. After laying, the bars are leveled using a level. To adjust the height of the log, wood chips are placed or excess wood is removed with a plane.
If desired, you can fill the space between the joists with thermal insulation materials. This is justified if the flooring is laid on the ground floor of a building that does not have basement. Then a moisture-proof film is spread over the lag, which is secured with staples. And a massive board is laid on top of it.
In the Foto correct styling plywood diagonal to the solid board.
The gap size should be from 3 to 5 mm.
The second method is laying on plywood base along the screed.
Today this is the most popular way of laying solid boards. According to this technology, moisture-resistant plywood is used as the base, the thickness of which should be 15-18 mm.
Before laying, plywood sheets are cut into strips with a width of 40 to 60 cm. Moreover, the cutting of a single sheet of plywood is carried out along the smaller of its sides. The finished strips are laid on concrete, diagonally to the future solid wood floor.
In this case, gaps are left: between the sheets - 3-5 mm, between the sheets and walls - 10 mm. It is important to understand that plywood tiles need to be laid out with a shift relative to each other in order to minimize the possibility of corners touching. Using dowels and screws, the heads of which are recessed into the material, the plywood is attached to the concrete. Each strip must have at least 9 attachment points.
An alternative option for attaching plywood to concrete is to glue it. One stripe size in this case should be at least half as large. Before laying solid boards, the plywood must be sanded using a belt sander equipped with a 40 or 60 grit belt and cleaned of dust.
2.
Laying solid boards on load-bearing wooden structures
If laying solid boards is carried out in a building that has load-bearing wooden structures, they can be used to attach the base to them under the future floor.
Before attaching the base under the floor, the existing joists must be leveled so that their maximum deviation from the plane does not exceed 2 mm per 2 m, otherwise the solid board will begin to creak over time.
Using a level, remove excess wood with a plane or place wood chips in the desired areas.
As a base for a solid board, 12 mm plywood, 18 mm OSB boards or 20 mm plank flooring can be used. Plywood and OSB boards are laid on top of the moisture-proof film in the direction of the future solid wood floor so that the edges of the boards meet on the joists, and not between them.
The gap between the sheets should be at least 2 mm, between the sheets and the wall - at least 10 mm, but not more than 15 mm, so that the opening can be closed with a plinth. Plywood and OSB boards are fastened with screws, of which there must be at least 9 pieces per sheet.
In this case, the screw heads must be recessed 3-4 mm into the material for possible subsidence of the plywood.
When using plank flooring as a base, the subfloor parts are laid diagonally to the future solid plank floor.
3. Installation on a finished wooden floor
The existing strong and high-quality wooden floor in the room must be sanded using a belt sander equipped with a 40 or 60 grit abrasive belt.
After this, you should clean the surface of the wooden floor from dust and small debris. It is recommended to lay solid boards over a wooden floor in a diagonal or transverse direction.
Application of two-component polyurethane adhesives
The best adhesives for solid wood planks are two-component polyurethane adhesives, which are used by all installers.
There are many similar adhesives on the market, fundamental differences some:
- Working time until the glue thickens. The optimal time now, which is indicated by manufacturers of modern adhesives, is 2.5, sometimes 3 hours. It's important to remember that given time calculated for ideal conditions of temperature, humidity, as well as for the ideal composition inside the can. From jar to jar, the parameters of the glue itself may also vary slightly. In reality, you need to calculate an hour and a half of glue work.
- Glue base.
Benzene group adhesives have strong smell, but disappear faster. Alkyd adhesives are most often odorless, but all harmful fumes take a little longer to disappear. Remember that glue that has a smell is no less environmentally friendly than one that does not smell - this is a common misconception. If odor is a major issue for the installer, we recommend the hypoallergenic adhesive Tover Tovcol PU2C.
- Strength and elasticity of the glue.
These options have important for installation, however, from the available product cards, the buyer will never know which adhesive is stronger. Trust the opinion of professional craftsmen or equally professional sellers.
Adhesives also have additional properties. For example, water-based or solvent-based adhesives shrink parquet and also transfer excess moisture into a massive board. Most adhesives leave stains when they come into contact with the varnished surface of parquet; some compounds can be removed before hardening with a cloth without leaving a mark (for example, ADESIV Pelpren PL6).
For all two-part adhesives, you need to use a wide-toothed spatula - don't forget to buy one.
Only such spatulas create the correct adhesive seam.
So, before installation, you need to thoroughly mix the two components of the glue with an electric mixer (an electric mixer allows you to do this efficiently and quickly, without reducing the working time of the glue).
Then you can pour some of the glue from the jar and spread it with a spatula. Sometimes you can see how glue is spread not on the base, but on each plank before gluing. Spreading the composition on the planks creates an insufficient layer of glue, especially in the gaps between the planks, so this method is incorrect from the point of view of adhesive manufacturers.
Correct glue line and correct use spatula.
Pay attention to how the spatula bends when pressed against the base.
The spatula must be held strictly vertically and pressed slightly into the floor - this creates the correct glue seam - grooves of glue, with only a thin film or a completely dry base underneath.
Fastening solid wood boards to the base and to each other
To attach a solid board to the base, self-tapping screws are used, the distance between which should be at least 20-30 cm.
Before this, the solid board should be drilled at an angle of 45 degrees from the ridge side. There is no fundamental difference between which side of the planks to drill from, but theoretically it is more correct to drill into a tenon. Specialized SPAX solid wood screws are the most popular for this purpose and with no immediate competitors.
It is especially important to use specialized screws for boards made of exotic, high-density wood (however, pre-drilling is required for exotic, dense wood).
Attracting the planks of a solid board to each other when screwed with self-tapping screws.
It is very important to pull the planks tightly together when screwing and leave the required gap between the boards and the walls (for most medium-sized rooms - exactly 1 cm).
Natural coating: solid board - DIY installation
To attract the planks to each other, carefully use a chisel or wedges if you have to press a tenon. Or, most often, the planks are knocked down with a hammer through a block.
Professional parquet crews often use a pneumatic gun with staples instead of self-tapping screws, which allows them to lay parquet much faster. This method is correct, but requires an initial investment in the purchase of a gun, a compressor and a supply of special staples.
Too small a gap between the walls and the parquet when the wood expands does not allow the internal tension of the material to escape, which can lead to cracking or swelling of the boards.
A gap that is too large will be difficult to close with regular-sized skirting boards.
The first row of solid boards is always laid with the groove facing the wall. The first and last rows are fastened with self-tapping screws through the front surface of the solid board. Subsequently, the fastening points are hidden under the baseboard.
Rules for sanding solid boards and applying a protective coating to it
To process laid solid boards without a factory coating, it is recommended to use disk and belt parquet sanding machines.
It is important to understand that light sanding is ideal for solid boards, removing only the varnish coating. Sanding will remove the chamfer, so when seasonal narrowing of the wood occurs, gaps will be noticeable on the floor surface.
Upon completion of sanding (if the solid board is uncoated), the surface of the solid board should be thoroughly cleaned of dust using a vacuum cleaner or brush.
Applying varnish or oil should begin the same day. After drying, it is recommended to sand each layer using a disc machine. It is recommended to apply 3 to 7 layers of varnish, which may take about 7 days. If you use a semi-gloss or glossy varnish, then in addition to strength, this affects the “mirror” appearance of the board.
After sanding, oil should be applied in 2-4 layers. Oil with hard wax does not require care if there is no visible deterioration in appearance. Traditional oil needs to be renewed every 1-2 years.
The final touch is the installation of the plinth, which is carried out according to the recommendations of the specific plinth manufacturer.
After this, the installation of solid wood flooring can be considered complete.
What is a solid board
Preliminary work
Self-laying of an array of boards on a screed
Thanks to its respectable appearance and natural sophistication, solid boards are considered the highest quality material among natural floor coverings.
It is an expensive product, but its advantages are undeniable. Today, the most commonly used and simplest way to create a floor is to lay solid boards on a screed without plywood.
Arrangement of solid wood surfaces, like other wooden coverings, is carried out at the end of repair work so that the material is not damaged during the finishing of the room. You can install the products yourself, both in city apartments and in private luxury mansions.
For ease of installation, the board has a connection with tongue-and-groove locks.
What is a solid board
These products are made with small grooves and ridges at the edges. This design of the boards allows you to quickly and easily join adjacent floorboards, and the connection is tight.
On sale you can find solid wood floorboards with a width of 12 to 20 centimeters and a length of 0.5 to 3 meters. WITH outside The products are chamfered, so after installation is completed a tiny gap is visible. If he appears different types deformations are filled, but the coating does not suffer.
On the back side of the products there are small transverse notches and longitudinal cuts, due to which the load on the floorboards is reduced and at the same time the tension of the fibers is reduced, preventing their destruction.
Preliminary work
There are different ways to lay solid wood flooring:
- installation on a screed without plywood;
- installation on plywood;
- creating a floating floor;
- fixation to the old floor covering.
Before laying a solid board on a screed, you should take into account that its thickness is greater than that of other products intended for installation of the finishing floor surface (for more details: “How to lay a solid board correctly: installation options and methods”).
One of the conditions for creating a high-quality floor covering is the ideal condition of the base.
The concrete base must meet a number of requirements:
- Humidity– no more than 2%. This indicator can be easily checked using polyethylene, which is used to cover a concrete area: after 24 hours there should be no condensation on it, and the screed should not darken.
There is another way. A rubber mat is placed on the screed and pressed on top concrete block and brick. You can also measure humidity using a special moisture meter.
- Compressive strength- not less than 20 MPa
- Tensile strength– not less than 6 MPa.
- Deviation relative to horizontal– cannot exceed 2 millimeters for every 2 linear meters.
This parameter is checked using a two-meter level.
- The base must be clean and free of cracks. The adhesion on an uncleaned surface will be weaker, which will certainly affect the quality of the finish.
Provided that the above requirements are met, the laying of the solid wood on the screed will be done efficiently, and the floor covering will last for decades.
Experts believe that a solid board on a screed without plywood can be mounted directly on a concrete base no lower than the second floor, and the grade of concrete used must be at least M250.
In case of a significant deviation from the horizontal, self-leveling self-leveling floors are installed to level the solid and dry surface of the base.
If you don’t have the funds to lay a finishing screed on an uneven subfloor, you can eliminate the defects yourself. The holes and cracks are covered with concrete, and with the help of special tools, all irregularities and bulges are polished.
When the humidity level changes, wooden floorboards begin to deform linearly. As a result, fluctuations in dimensions lead to tension between the concrete base and the floor covering. If under these conditions the screed does not have sufficient strength, then voids will appear in it, it will begin to peel off, the laid boards will begin to creak and, most likely, the floor will collapse over time.
After the preparatory activities are completed, the packs of boards are opened and the material is removed outside so that the products acclimatize before the array is mounted on the screed. To ensure circulation air flow, the floorboards must be placed on a stand.
Self-laying of an array of boards on a screed
When installing a massive board on a screed without plywood, you must remember that you have to work with natural wood, which always has minor cracks and irregularities.
But during the operation of the floor covering, they will not spoil the appearance of the floor, but rather emphasize the naturalness of the material. It’s not for nothing that solid wood boards are considered elite products for surface finishing.
The technology for laying solid boards on a screed involves the following procedure:
- The cleaned base is primed using an epoxy primer, which improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition and gives increased strength to the screed.
- Glue is applied to finishing material and level with a notched trowel.
- Initially, three rows of floorboards are laid out in the middle of the room. The place for this is determined based on the width of the products, so that the edge of the row closest to the wall is at a distance of 1 to 1.5 centimeters.
You can also start laying boards on the screed from the wall.
- Then each row is mounted alternately on both sides of the first three.
- If even the slightest difference in the level of the flooring elements is detected, massive products must be loaded for a while until the polymerization of the adhesive composition is completed.
- When laying, it is necessary to leave a gap between the boards and the wall, which should be 10-15 millimeters along the longitudinal side, and 5-10 millimeters at the end, since seasonal deformation of wood products is always present.
When a solid board is mounted, only modern two-component adhesives, for example, elastic polyurethane and epoxy-polyurethane, will help to lay the product on the screed.
It should be noted that solid floorboards should not be used for finishing a “warm” floor: if a wooden covering is installed, it becomes unusable.
Among the advantages of solid wood flooring, one should note its durability, low thermal conductivity, excellent sound insulation and environmental friendliness. Proper care such a floor covering made of natural wood can extend its service life to 100-120 years.
Master class: laying solid boards
When choosing a solid board, you should know that products from coniferous species deteriorate faster. For example, pine is not very resistant to mechanical stress and microclimatic changes. To floor finishing coat served for a long time, it is necessary to prevent high humidity in the room.
What is a solid wood board: advantages and disadvantages
Criteria for choosing solid boards
Basic methods of laying solid boards
Preparation for installation work
Installation of solid boards on plywood
"Floating" method of array installation
Fastening solid boards to wood flooring
Floor coverings made from solid wood are now popular due to their presentable appearance and many other undeniable advantages.
When choosing an option for laying solid boards, you need to remember that only with proper installation such a floor can last for decades.
What is a solid wood board: advantages and disadvantages
The name of this floor finishing product means that it is made from a single piece of wood. This material, after installation, is very similar to a parquet board, which, unlike solid floorboards, is made from several wooden planks using the gluing method.
First of all, it should be noted that flooring made from natural wood is environmentally friendly, does not contain allergens, and has a beneficial effect on health.
In addition, it has other advantages:
- beautiful appearance, the floor surface looks presentable, which is confirmed by the photo;
- good noise-absorbing and heat-insulating characteristics;
- ease of installation compared to, for example, parquet;
- resistance to aggressive factors;
- strength and long service life.
Disadvantages of solid wood floors:
- high cost, especially for products made from valuable species trees;
- installation is expensive;
- sensitivity to changes in humidity and temperature;
- the need to regularly care for the surface - varnish or oil;
- installation on a “warm floor” system is undesirable;
- flammability, susceptibility to rotting without treatment with special means;
- It is impossible to carry out an artistic display, unlike a parquet board.
When you plan to lay solid boards, the first thing you need to do is decide on the installation method.
You can make your work easier if you study in detail the features of the product and know how to choose the right product.
Criteria for choosing solid boards
The final result depends on the quality of the material for arranging the floor covering.
Therefore, when buying a massive board you need to pay attention to a number of points:
- Quality of material and its geometry. First of all, you should inspect the surface of the boards to check for cracks and similar defects, and then the edges of the floorboards to see if firing was used to finish them.
If it occurred, then this indicates a violation of the drying technology. Laying a solid floor from such boards will not make it possible to create a high-quality floor - it will look sloppy.
The geometric parameters of solid wood products should allow the floorboards to be easily connected to each other. The final finishing coating cannot have dips or protrusions, otherwise the laid surface will become uneven.
- Product design. Before laying a solid board, you need to make sure that its appearance will match the designed interior. Choose suitable option is not difficult, since the array is presented on the market in a wide range color scheme and varied structure.
When making boards, not only ordinary wood can be used, but also exotic and rare tree species. Among them, the most popular are products made from beech - products made from it are characterized by strength, but at the same time they are sensitive to high humidity.
Therefore, in rooms with high humidity, instead of beech boards, it is better to lay floorboards made of foliage or teak.
- Availability of documents. Confirmation of the quality of any flooring products is the corresponding certificates of manufacturers, which contain information about a specific product necessary for consumers.
After viewing them, you need to find out what technology was used to dry the boards. The best choice– products in the production of which the convective method was used. The humidity of solid wood boards should not exceed 9%.
- Availability of GOST certificates.They confirm that the product was manufactured by serious manufacturing companies.
Basic methods of laying solid boards
When a solid floor board is chosen for arranging a beautiful floor covering, installation should be done on a prepared base.
In practice, one of several ways to create a rough surface is used - the products are mounted:
- on a concrete screed;
- on wooden logs;
- on regular plywood;
- for natural wood;
- using staples.
The installation of solid boards is most often carried out on a cement-concrete base.
Fixation is carried out using special adhesives. They have high performance against temperature changes and are not toxic to humans.
When starting to install the floorboards on the screed, they are checked for strength and the presence of defects.
The humidity of the base should be 6-7%, otherwise a waterproofing layer will be required.
Laying solid boards: methods and technology
The gaps in the joints are carefully glued.
Thus, when choosing a method for mounting an array on a screed, they should not be allowed to come into contact with each other. To do this, it is necessary to arrange an intermediate layer using a primer mastic and a vapor barrier film.
The next popular technology is laying solid boards on plywood.
Peculiarity this method is that it will require the creation of a vapor barrier layer. The moisture content of the material cannot exceed 10%, and fixation is carried out with two-component adhesives.
The convenience of the method, when a massive board is mounted on logs, is that
the job can be completed quickly because no kneading is required cement mortars. Placed under the joists waterproofing layer from penofol or polyethylene film.
Laying solid boards in a floating manner involves installation using brackets. This technology allows you to significantly reduce work time.
Aluminum products are installed simultaneously with silicone expansion joints to improve edge bonding.
Sometimes the installation of solid boards is carried out on top wooden surface. The old coating must be reliable and durable and have a humidity of 8-10%. If wooden base covered with varnish, then it is removed and the planks are sanded to eliminate unevenness.
When laying the array, the boards should be placed in the same direction as in the previous covering. To fix new floorboards, self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating are used.
Self-tapping screws are attached at intervals of 25-30 centimeters from one another. In order to prevent the material from splitting on the side where the tenon is located, you need to make holes.
The caps must not “protrude” above the surface; it must be possible to subsequently close it with special riveting.
Having studied all the methods of laying solid boards, analyzing their pros and cons, you can choose the option that will become optimal solution in this particular case.
Preparation for installation work
The rows between the elements of the floor covering are fixed with staples or a solid board is laid with glue.
The tools you will need to carry out the work are:
- a simple pencil and a square;
- metal ruler;
- wooden mallet;
- drill and screwdriver;
- pneumatic stapler;
- putty knife.
For fastening elements, you need self-tapping screws - it is better to purchase them with galvanic coating and anti-corrosion properties, since they do not rust and are able to smooth out the negative effects of temperature fluctuations and other seasonal factors.
At the bottom of the covering there are stainless brackets, which are necessary for fastening the two elements - they are snapped into the grooves or fixed with screw-in screws.
Before installation begins, the solid board is unpacked and left in the room where installation is planned for about a week.
Floorboards are placed on supports to ensure air circulation around the products.
Installation of solid boards on plywood
When buying plywood for a solid board, preference should be given to sheets with a thickness of 13-15 millimeters.
The installation process is carried out step by step in a certain sequence:
- Plywood is cut into pieces half a meter wide.
- On concrete surface place a vapor barrier material.
- The array is laid on plywood at a 45-degree angle with respect to the base.
Since thermal expansion causes slight deformation of the floorboards, 3 mm gaps are left between the sheets during installation.
- Next, the surface of the plywood is sanded.
- After the plywood base is ready, they begin laying the array.
They use two-component polyurethane-based glue for solid boards on plywood. Read also: “Laying solid boards on a screed without plywood with your own hands.”
"Floating" method of array installation
In the case when, due to the installation of a heated floor, preference is given to this technology, you need to ensure that the base of the covering and the array do not touch. During the installation process, structural elements are secured using board dies. The “floating” method allows for compensation for temperature changes and changes in humidity.
Fastening solid boards to wood flooring
In the case when the old wooden base does not inspire confidence, then it is better to dismantle it and replace it with something else, which is not profitable from a financial point of view, since creating a new floor covering will be very expensive. Solid wood boards are laid similarly to laminate, so you can even do this work yourself. Experts recommend starting installation from the far corners - in this case it will be possible to evaluate the results of your own efforts.
