As a result of the general installation metal plastic windows with double-glazed windows, old wooden ones are massively recycled or burned in stoves. Meanwhile, somewhere in the country or in a rural yard they could turn into an unusual construction material.

The reader is invited to see how a greenhouse is built from window frames with your own hands, allowing you to grow seedlings and vegetables in cold weather.

They start by choosing the location for installing the greenhouse, criteria:

• good lighting;
• distance from or ;
• protection from the wind, no draft;
• close location of water sources;
• accessibility of the greenhouse location along the east-west line;
• the possibility of supplying electricity for lighting: so that plants produce crops earlier, with the help of artificial lamps they create the illusion of an increase and decrease in the duration of daylight hours.

If there are no areas illuminated throughout the day, choose one where the sun shines in the first half of the day. To save building materials, you can attach a greenhouse to your house.

In the selected area, debris is removed, stumps and bushes are uprooted. If there are irregularities, they are smoothed out: the bumps are cut off and the soil is transferred to the depressions. At the same time, it is important to avoid mixing the fertile layer with the underlying one if it is intended to use “native” soil for growing plants.

To do this, in case of significant differences in relief, the top layer of soil is cut off and folded in piles along construction site, and alignment is carried out using the underlying layer. Then fertile soil returned to its place.

Maximum shelf life fertile soil in piles - 4 weeks. Next, bacteria that play an important role in gas exchange die in it.

Preparation of building material

If your own window frames are not enough, you can get them from friends or contact a company that installs metal-plastic windows.

1. remove hinges, latches and other fittings;
2. dismantle the glazing beads, remove the glass;
3. clean off the paint. This requires heating with a hair dryer. From high temperature the paint bubbles and is easily removed with a spatula or scraper. This method is not suitable for removing paint from plastered surfaces. In this case, a significant difference in temperature coefficient expansion of the base and paintwork;
4. frames cleared of paint are sanded and treated with an antiseptic;
5. then painted;
6. install the glass in place, having previously lubricated them around the perimeter on both sides silicone sealant. The latter will prevent wind from blowing into the cracks and will help retain heat. If the frames are supposed to be attached to the frame using nails rather than self-tapping screws, the glass is installed last.

The discrepancy in frame sizes should not be scary: cracks and places of inconsistency are tightly sealed polyurethane foam.

In addition to the frames you will need:

• boards 50 mm thick for constructing the frame: also treated with an antiseptic;
• or plastic film;
• materials for the foundation: cement, sand, crushed stone, rubble (large fragments of stone), brick.

Greenhouse drawing

To draw a sketch of a greenhouse, you need to decide on its dimensions:

1. height: taking into account the owner’s height, but not less than 1.8 m;
2. width. Accepted depending on the expected number of beds. A strip 100 cm wide is allocated for each, and 50 cm for the passages between them. The distance between the beds should be such that a garden wheelbarrow can drive there;
3. length. Accepted at the discretion of the owner.

Amateur greenhouses are most often built with dimensions of 6x3 m.

Foundation for a greenhouse

A greenhouse is a fairly massive and permanent structure, so it is built on a stable foundation. This cannot be said about the soil surface, which gets wet in the spring, so a foundation is required.

As for anyone frame construction, you can get by columnar foundation, but it’s better to build a tape one, because it:

• helps retain heat inside;
• prevents the penetration of weeds from outside.

Shallow strip foundation

The depth of the foundation is chosen taking into account the size of the building:

1. small greenhouse. Enough shallow foundation: heaving forces of frozen soil acting on the structure from below will not cause deformations;
2. large greenhouse. Requires deepening to the extent of soil freezing. The foundation can be made smaller: but then the soil is removed down to the non-freezing layer and replaced with backfill with high drainage properties - sand or crushed stone-sand mixture.

The procedure for constructing a shallow strip foundation:

1. along the perimeter of the future building, they dig a trench 20 cm wide and 40 cm deep;
2. At the bottom, sand 10 cm thick is laid and compacted with moisture, then the same layer of crushed stone is compacted into it. This cushion will evenly distribute the load from the building onto the ground, and in addition, unlike ordinary soil, it does not retain water;
3. formwork is assembled from boards or plywood - a form for the foundation. Concrete has a lot of weight, so the formwork is secured more firmly. To prevent the boards from deteriorating from contact with concrete mortar, it is better to wrap them with plastic film;
4. formed in formwork reinforcement cage: upper and lower belts with two threads each, connected by vertical crossbars. Welding is not allowed - the steel in the weld area becomes brittle. The rods are connected with annealed binding wire. The dimensions of the frame are taken such that the rods are protected by a layer of concrete 3 cm thick. To ensure the presence of such a layer from below, the spatial structure of the rods is installed on special plastic bosses. If there are none, they make do with fragments of brick;
5. Concrete mixture is prepared in a concrete mixer. Cement grade M200 or M300 is sufficient;
6. concrete is poured into the formwork. To prevent the formation of air pockets, use a vibrator. In the absence of such, concrete after pouring is often pierced with a steel rod;
7. To prevent moisture from the fresh pour from evaporating too quickly (it is needed to react with cement), the foundation is covered with plastic film. In hot weather, it must be watered periodically;
8. a week after pouring, the formwork is removed. Concrete gains maximum hardness in 28 days;
9. the mature foundation is covered with rolled waterproofing. According to new standards, it is recommended to insulate it. If you decide to do this, instead of using roll waterproofing outside sheets of extruded polystyrene foam are secured with glue and dowels. Ordinary polystyrene foam cannot be used for this purpose - it will not withstand the load from frozen soil.

Dowels for fastening polystyrene foam are disc-shaped, with caps. large diameter(also called “umbrellas”): they do not press through the material.

Flooring

For ease of movement in the greenhouse, paths are arranged between the beds; they operate as follows:

1. at the site of the future path, dig a trench 15 cm deep;
2. a layer of gravel or crushed stone 10 cm thick is laid at the bottom and compacted well;
3. a layer of sand 5 cm thick is poured on top. They are compacted, pouring water.

A finishing coating is laid on top of the sand. Sawdust can play its role.

Pros:

• low cost;
• the material is hygroscopic (no puddles remain on the path);
• walk on it softly.

Minuses:

• it’s hard to roll a garden wheelbarrow;
• sticking to the soles, sawdust spreads throughout the greenhouse.

Boards too inexpensive material, but without the disadvantages of sawdust. Treatment with non-toxic antiseptics is required (for baths and saunas). Floors can be made in the form concrete screed, lay it out of brick. Porcelain tiles look very attractive. But for a greenhouse it is a bit expensive and is more suitable for winter garden in an elite house.

To prevent soil from the beds from contaminating the paths, they are fenced off with low plastic borders.

Construction of the frame

Since the greenhouse is being built from window frames, there is no point in overpaying and building a metal frame. Wood is used - boards 50 mm thick. The structure is assembled from racks installed in the corners and along the walls at intervals of 1.5-2 m, and lower and upper frames covering them.

Procedure:

1. On the ground, frames are knocked together from several posts and frame beams. The frame elements are fastened with corners, self-tapping screws or nails;
2. the frames are installed in a vertical position (controlled by a plumb line) and fastened with the remaining frame beams. The height of the window frames is limited and, so that the greenhouse does not turn out to be squat, the lower trim is made of two rows;
3. Window frames are attached to the racks with self-tapping screws. You can use nails, but then you must first remove the glass from the frames, otherwise they are likely to be damaged. Frames with vents are installed opposite each other: with this arrangement, ventilation will be most effective;
4. The frames are reinforced from the inside with supports made of boards of lesser thickness;
5. All gaps between frames and racks are sealed with polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam (foamed polyurethane) under ultraviolet radiation is destroyed, so the foamed cracks need to be covered with opaque material. For example, adhesive tape or plastic sheathing.

Roof

The roof is not made from glazed frames - it will be hot in the greenhouse and the glass may be destroyed by hail. Polyethylene film is also used to cover the greenhouse.

The roof is built in one of two versions:

1. : the simplest option;
2. gable: looks more attractive, but more difficult to install.

To install a pitched roof, the walls along the long side are raised to different heights. Grooves are cut out in the beams of the upper frame and rafters are laid in them.

When installing gable roof hanging rafters are used: unlike layered rafters, they do not require a ridge beam. They are made from triangular trusses: two rafter legs converging at an angle are fastened in the middle with a horizontal tie. It is convenient to put together structures on the ground.

After installation, they are fastened with bars or boards. Rafter system cover with the selected coating. The polyethylene film is fixed at the edges with slats, which are screwed to the frame or window frames with self-tapping screws. During installation cellular polycarbonate It is important to remember its high coefficient of thermal expansion.

Follow the recommendations:

1. the sheets are laid in internal channels along the slope so that water flows out of them;
2. the joint of the sheets should be on the rafter or sheathing;
3. joining of sheets is carried out using a special profile of two parts: one is screwed to rafter leg, the second one, after laying the sheets, is fastened on top. Between the profile jumper and the edge of the sheet, a gap is left for the free expansion of the latter;
4. the mounting holes, again in order to ensure freedom of expansion, are drilled with a diameter 2 mm larger than the body of the self-tapping screw. Special hardware with large heads and soft washers are used;
5. The ends of the sheets are sealed with special tapes and closed with end caps: the top one is solid, the bottom one is perforated (they release water).

To install a polycarbonate roof, it is better to buy profiles with gaskets. Although they are more expensive, the connection is more reliable in terms of tightness.

Video on the topic

How to make a greenhouse from old window frames with your own hands:

Wooden window frames are an excellent building material for a greenhouse, and practically free of charge. For a gardener, this is a great chance to provide for himself and his family at minimal cost, early harvest tasty and healthy vegetables.

How to make a greenhouse with your own hands from old window frames?

Short summer season sometimes accompanied by cool weather and prolonged rains. However, the desire to receive good harvest, regardless of climatic conditions, remains the same for all summer residents. . A properly organized greenhouse is able to accumulate heat and maintain the desired microclimate inside the space.

Some people turn to specialists in this matter to create a greenhouse, others boldly get down to business and build the structure with their own hands. At independent execution works, other technologies are also used. However, such a greenhouse made from old frames is considered the most simple option, it is quite simple to build. Due to its properties, glass is better suited than film for a greenhouse with vegetable crops. It not only allows the sun's rays to better penetrate the greenhouse, but also keeps it inside longer.

Important points during construction

Let's look at some details that are important to know in order to build a greenhouse from old wooden beams correctly:

• In addition to a suitable place for construction on a summer cottage, the dimensions of the greenhouse also determine the size of the existing old window frames;
• If you need reliable design, which is designed for long-term operation, it is better to make the frame of the greenhouse permanent. An excellent option for creating a solid foundation would be brickwork. The roof for the greenhouse can be made as a separate removable element, which is dismantled for the winter and snow loads. If the brick version for the frame does not suit you, you can build a base using boards;
• When building a greenhouse from unnecessary old windows, top part the frame can be made with one or two slopes. To tilt the roof in both directions, you must first lay a ridge beam in the middle. If a lean-to greenhouse is planned, its location should allow for maximum sun exposure during the day. This condition will have a beneficial effect on the condition of the plants;
• If there are a lot of old windows, it is better to make the entire frame entirely from them, because such greenhouses from frames let in much more light, promoting active development vegetable crops during the period of growth. However, you need to be careful not to damage the integrity of the mounted glass in the side part;
• Do not forget that your structure must be airtight. In addition to the fact that assembling a greenhouse requires care and precision, you also need to take care to eliminate gaps between the elements. You can fill the seams yourself using sealants and special putties. The better the space is isolated from the inside, the better for the plants;
• Provide several supports that can support window frames while you need to work in the greenhouse, caring for vegetable crops;
• Choose a place for a greenhouse made from old window elements that is as windless as possible. It is desirable that a water supply be provided to the building for convenient watering. An excellent option is to build a greenhouse by connecting it to another existing capital structure;
• If the frame is made of wood, take care to protect the structure from rotting. Before mounting the frame, you must first distribute roofing felt around the perimeter, and the lower part supporting structure impregnate the boards with resin. If these measures are observed, the base of the greenhouse made of window elements will last for a long time;
• In order for the service life of a greenhouse made from old wooden beams to be impressive, it is better to build a brick base to support the frame.

Consistent actions during the construction of a structure

Preparatory stage:

• Measure all the window frames you have. Most often, the elements of old frames differ from each other in size;
• Knowing the dimensions, you can understand which option for distributing elements along the frame is the most optimal. If all the elements for the greenhouse are the same, the difficulties in their distribution will be minimal;
• Record your decision after the calculations in the drawing, at least schematically. This way, you don't have to do the same work several times, remembering the final version. Record on the drawing front door and places allocated for beds, mark the distances between them. Don't forget to make handles later. .

Determining the optimal location

You need to be very careful when choosing a location, since proper placement of a greenhouse on a site is one of the main components of a successful harvest. In order for the sun to warm the soil of the greenhouse from the window frames for as long as possible, choose an area near which there will be no tall bushes and trees. It is also advisable to move away from buildings on the site that cast an impressive shadow. The area under the greenhouse must be protected from drafts caused by the wind.

The plot of land for the greenhouse must be level. The reference point for placing the structure is from north to south. Choose loose soil for installing the greenhouse. Avoid intimacy groundwater When placing the structure, it is better that the soil is moderately dry.

We install the base with our own hands

It is quite simple to build a foundation for a greenhouse from old frames, since this structure does not create much pressure on the base. The foundation can be strip; for this, a depression is made in the ground around the perimeter of the greenhouse and filled in concrete mixture. The base is also made of brick and wood. Brick and concrete option are more durable.

There is a base made of metal; it is also used for the frame of the greenhouse from window elements. Such a foundation is mounted strictly under the support pillars.

– this corresponds to the level. Monitor this parameter with a special device.

Preparing window frames

This stage involves dismantling unnecessary parts from frame elements: fasteners, hinges, window handles, etc. Next, sand the surface of the frames, removing old layer paints. Subject to these conditions, new paint distributes evenly and forms a reliable protective layer, preventing the process of decay. Additional processing keeping trees away from rodents will not be an unnecessary undertaking.

We mount the frame with our own hands

Before installing wooden window frames, it is necessary to build a frame for the future greenhouse. Its construction is not particularly difficult; you must be guided by the dimensions of the drawing when preparing bars of the required size. The elements are assembled together using special screws and nails.

Fastening elements to the frame structure

In order for the structure to be stable and last for many years, it is better to install the frames using screws and self-tapping screws. These fasteners are no more reliable than nails, however, they can reduce the likelihood of glass damage. We seal the space between the elements with sealants or foam, depending on the size of the gaps. Thus, the necessary conditions for the tightness of the space will be met in the greenhouse.

Roof structure

The best option is considered gable roof With ridge beam, arranged along the greenhouse. . It is better not to use the material for the roof of a greenhouse; choose more lightweight material. An excellent solution would be a polycarbonate roof; its cost per square meter of the upper part of the greenhouse structure is quite acceptable.

September 17, 2016
Specialization: professional approach to architecture, design and construction of private houses and cottages, new products on the market of building materials and finishing. Hobby: growing fruit trees and roses Breeding rabbits for meat and decorative breeds.

Everyone is familiar with the problem with used building materials. What to do with old wooden window frames if metal-plastic has been installed throughout the entire house or apartment? If there country cottage area, then a mini greenhouse made from windows is an excellent use of this material.

On average, a new polycarbonate greenhouse has an area of ​​20 square meters will cost from 15 to 25 thousand rubles. A greenhouse made from old windows will cost a maximum of five thousand, taking into account the cost of building a foundation and purchasing new boards for the frame.

It is not necessary to build a monumental structure, you can limit yourself to a mini greenhouse. How to build such a greenhouse with your own hands? I offer two alternative methods.

Choosing a place to build a greenhouse

In the photo - a mini greenhouse, we attach the frames from above along the ridge, the slope is at least 40 degrees

We build a greenhouse in a well-lit open place so that trees and buildings do not provide shade. If the area is small, then we orient ourselves in such a way that the morning and afternoon sun illuminates the greenhouse, and the evening sun’s rays can be sacrificed.

We arrange the greenhouse lengthwise from east to west. In this case, the sun will reach the plants evenly throughout the day, and the sprouts will not bend.

If we are building a small greenhouse without a strip foundation, then it is not necessary to take into account soil moisture. But when arranging a greenhouse of 20 square meters or more, when there are many frames, the foundation must be placed on a dry place.

Greenhouse dimensions and foundation structure

Even a shallow strip foundation for a greenhouse must be built in a place where there is no close groundwater. On my site, in two places at a depth of one and a half meters, the soil is already wet, and there the house used to be. So in this old house it was constantly damp. When wet, the foundation gradually collapses.

We choose a dry area, preferably with chernozem soil, under which there is a layer of sand. It is clear that not all of us are happy owners of fertile lands. Therefore, if the soil is clayey, then the soil for the greenhouse will need to be prepared before building the foundation.

A certain soil composition is required for a greenhouse:

1. The bottom layer - gravel or crushed stone - is drainage that will allow excess water and will allow plant roots to breathe and prevent rotting.
2. Next, a layer of sand is needed - all plants love light soils at the root lobes, which allow the thin growing root to form and grow unhindered.
3. Only the last, top layer should be fertile. This is a layer of chernozem enriched with humus, pre-prepared compost from leaves or a complex of mineral fertilizers (nitroammofoska).

Greenhouse size

A small do-it-yourself greenhouse made from old window frames does not need a foundation. A frame made of boards or timber can be laid directly on the ground.

To prevent the boards from rotting, the lower frame must be treated with a protective wood primer or tarred. Roofing felt, which is used to wrap the lower square of the frame and rack, at a height of about 50 centimeters above ground level, is also suitable.

• the most convenient beds are one meter wide and can be easily processed on both sides;
• We make the path between the beds so wide that it is convenient to move around. If you do not plan to use a garden wheelbarrow, then optimal width paths - half a meter;
• The optimal width of the greenhouse is four meters. Three beds and two paths fit here. The length is arbitrary.

You can plan your future greenhouse in advance on paper. It takes a couple of minutes to make a drawing, but it will help you navigate the right number of frames and boards, and optimally divide required quantity beds and paths.

Foundation structure

A foundation is necessary for a large greenhouse, since the mass of frames with glass is rather large. A greenhouse made from window frames is installed with your own hands on a shallow (50 - 60 centimeters) strip foundation, since the frame can shrink under the weight of the frames and the structure is deformed.

• For a footage of 10 square meters, a foundation on pillars is also suitable. The number of pillars is calculated based on the number of window frames. Ideally, each frame should be supported by two posts;
• you can make a foundation of concrete, brick, or use a ready-made welded metal frame;
  It is important to remember that brickwork without a foundation “moves” over time, and it cannot be buried in the ground. Therefore, under the brick columns it is still necessary to pour a concrete base.
• in regions with severe frosts, it is worth using the natural warmth of the soil. Therefore, the greenhouse is buried into the ground by about half a meter or a meter, depending on the depth of freezing of the ground in winter;
• We fill a simple strip foundation according to the usual scheme: trench, formwork from boards, pouring concrete, hardening, removing the formwork.

The foundation must be covered with roofing felt before installing the frame. This will help further protect the wooden frame parts from moisture.

A welded frame is much more convenient. Why? For the reason that, if desired, the greenhouse can be moved to another place. If we fill the foundation, then it is already a permanent building.

I think you will be interested, there is information regarding the assessment suburban area. So - when assessing real estate on a site, all covered buildings on the foundation are included in the total economic area for which tax must be paid. Therefore it is cheaper to cook frame foundation under a greenhouse, which is easy to disassemble before the assessment commission arrives.

Frame installation

Before making a greenhouse from window frames, all wooden parts must be treated with a primer deep penetration and also paint the wood. This will keep it from rotting. Carefully remove paint from all old frames and adjust the parts so that there are no gaps.

There is no need to remove the vents and hinges; they will be useful for installation and subsequent ventilation of the greenhouse in summer time. If the frames are different in size, then we group them so that the shorter ones fall on the ends of the greenhouse, and the taller ones cover its long part.

Doors will be installed on the sides and the missing height can be hemmed with boards, but along the length it is better to be continuous.

For the base of the frame, a 50x50 or unedged board, thickness 40 - 50 mm, no longer needed, as the weight of the entire structure increases. The board for the frame is preferable, since its width allows the frames to be securely fastened with self-tapping screws and will give our base additional rigidity.

Frame elements:

1. Bottom trim - dimensions along the perimeter of the foundation. The beams can be fastened together with metal corners on self-tapping screws, rather than nails, this is more reliable. If the strapping is made of boards, then to give rigidity along the length, you can install one or two more boards.
2. The racks are attached vertically to bottom harness. They are mounted in the corners, along the length and on the sides in increments equal to the width of the window frames selected for the greenhouse. The racks in one row should be lower than in the other - for a slope of 40 degrees. The difference in height of the racks is 30 centimeters.
3. The top trim is the basis for the roof. A window frame greenhouse must have a slope angle of at least 40 degrees so that water can easily drain and accumulate in the film.
4. It is not practical to install a gable roof on such a structure. A single-slope roof would also work.. In order for the film to be securely fastened, the pitch between the roof slats should be no more than 60 cm. For the roof, you can use plasterboard guides. They are lightweight and very easy to attach to wood with self-tapping screws.

All fasteners are made using wood screws only. Fastening with nails during operation does not stand up to criticism; in a year the entire structure will be swaying in the wind.

Fastening the frames to the frame

There are a few important nuances, which must be taken into account when attaching frames to the finished frame:

1. The fastening step with self-tapping screws is 25 - 30 centimeters, no less.
2. The joints between the frames must be sealed. Polyurethane foam or regular window putty will do. Additionally, you can lay insulation tape or rubber seal.
3. For reliability, the outside of the frame must also be attached with self-tapping screws; here the step can be more than 40 - 50 cm.
4. For reliability, the frame can be secured from the inside with a board at the bottom. We also attach it to wood screws.

If there are few old frames, then the northern side of the greenhouse can be covered with a board or thick one. But it is necessary to paint the plywood, as it very quickly becomes unusable from rain and snow.

Roof installation

The roofing material is dense polyethylene film for greenhouses or polycarbonate. Glazing a roof is a thankless task. Hail, heavy rain or squall and you have to change the glazing, and the price of glass is now quite high.

• The downside of the film is that this canopy will have to be removed for the winter, and the reliability leaves much to be desired. Advantage - suitable pitched roof, less work and consumption of building materials. The pitch of the lathing under the film is no more than 40 m, since it sags and rainwater accumulates in it.
• Polycarbonate is more expensive than film, but it is more reliable option, also allows you to install an arched roof.

It is better to cover a small homemade greenhouse with film; it is easy to remove for the winter.

Installation of a gable roof frame

The operating procedure is as follows:

1. We install two load-bearing beams along the length, and we will attach the roof rafters to them.
2. TO top harness We fasten the rafters, depending on the length of the greenhouse from three to six pieces.
3. It is important to determine the angle of inclination of the rafters; it should be the same.
4. We mount the rafters to the supporting beam using vertical posts (trusses).
5. Next, along the rafters we apply lathing from slats to secure the roof covering. For polycarbonate, the pitch of the slats is 60 - 80 centimeters, for film 40 - 50 cm.
6. We fasten the roof along the sheathing. It is advisable to secure the film to the rafters with thin slats for reliability.

That's all, our greenhouse is ready, we can supply water and install electricity and lighting.

Summary

In the video presented in this article you can see the entire process of constructing a greenhouse from old window frames. If readers have any interesting offers and innovations, I invite you to discuss them in the comments.

September 17, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Even in a temperate climate it will cost the owner a lot. However, enterprising summer residents have learned to save and use all available means to achieve their goal. It is for this reason that you should not throw away old window frames. After all, a DIY greenhouse made from old window frames is an excellent and inexpensive alternative.

By the way, even “empty” frames, i.e. without glass, are quite suitable for use - they can subsequently be covered with plastic film or scraps of glass, polycarbonate, etc. can be inserted into them.

But here it is worth understanding that wood is a very capricious material and without appropriate preparation it will simply rot in the ground in a couple of years.

In order for a future greenhouse made from old window frames to last for more than one year, it is important to “prepare” the wooden frames, that is, treat them with special compounds to increase their service life. This does not require spending a lot of time, and Money Same. You just need to do a few simple manipulations.

1. First of all, the future building material should be cleaned - free the frames from fittings: all small and large nails, hooks, loops, latches and the like are removed from the wood. In addition, if there is glass left in the frames, they must also be removed for a while - for better processing of the material.
When choosing frames, it is important to remember that the design of a greenhouse made from old window frames implies the presence of several (at least two) windows for ventilation.

2. Cleaning wood from old paint and other things facing material(self-adhesive paper, wallpaper, etc.) - this is the most important stage in preparing frames. After this event, the resulting bare tree should be covered mainly in several layers with antiseptic compounds, and then with paint or varnish - whatever is at hand.

By the way, to achieve the maximum service life of a greenhouse made from window frames, it is best to use light colors of paint (the best option would be White color) – this will reduce the heating of the structure.

What size window frame greenhouse should I choose?

First of all, the owner must determine what size he wants to build a greenhouse from window frames with his own hands. Maybe it will be enough for him to organize a small portable greenhouse for growing seedlings, or he needs permanent structure. A lot will depend on this choice: choosing the location for future construction, preparing and compacting the soil, organizing the foundation, and everything in the same spirit. But here it is worth understanding that the dimensions of such a structure will directly depend on the number of available ready-made frames.

Advice: with a limited amount of material, but the desire to have a fairly large greenhouse, it can easily be made in the form of an extension to a building - a barn, a house, etc.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from old window frames: preparation

Choosing a location.

Before you start building a greenhouse from window frames or other available raw materials, you should carefully select a location - it should be located on an illuminated plot of land for as long as possible. That is, a garden with trees, an area near relatively tall buildings, and other shady areas should not be considered.

The density and homogeneity of the soil must also be taken into account. For example, if the soil is bulk, then it should first be thoroughly compacted, otherwise the greenhouse made from window frames may subsequently tilt or sag.

Preparing the construction site.

To build a greenhouse from window frames with your own hands, designed for several years of service, you need to thoroughly clear the site - remove bushes, trees and their roots, clear the soil of other debris.

It is also important to take into account that the place for future work should not be at too low a level - this way moisture will constantly enter the greenhouse from the window frames, and storm water will flow in, thereby flooding, even if easy simple foundation, spoiling the already quite old wood of the frames.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from old window frames: step by step

So, if desired and possible (availability necessary building materials) the owner builds a greenhouse from window frames, it is worth remembering that a height of 2.45-2.60 meters (the most acceptable height) will require the organization of a foundation.

Foundation.

By organizing a reliable foundation, you will get a very durable structure that can last about 7-11 years - it all depends on the literacy of the preparatory work, wood processing, etc.

To increase the service life of the entire structure, as well as compact the lower layers of soil, it is better to think about additional insulation soil. For these purposes, dense polyethylene is used, laid along the perimeter of the greenhouse from window frames below the freezing level of the soil.

As for the foundation itself, both the strip version made of concrete or a similar mixture, and the columnar version “work well” here.

Concrete strip option.

The tape variation involves advance marking followed by digging small trenches, the height of which should be at least 75 cm, and the width, in turn, 16, preferably 20 centimeters.

The sealing “cushion” (16-22 cm) is made of successively laid layers sand mixture and small crushed stone - crushed stones.

Wooden formwork is installed by strengthening it with a concrete mass above ground level (reinforcement with reinforcement is preferable).

It should be understood that the thoroughness of concrete drying depends directly on the environmental conditions - from 2-4 days in hot, stable weather and up to 20 days in changeable humid weather.

The base is made of dense timber.

However, a wooden base made of solid timber or dense boards is also suitable. However, it will last a little less - up to 6 years with reasonable preparation of the timber (wood deteriorates and rots in the soil very quickly).

The timber must be selected with a size of at least 10:10 cm. It is coated with antiseptic agents and painted with paint-varnish in several layers.

The finished wood is laid in a pre-dug trench - shallow and about 16 cm wide. Moreover, it is preferable to place the wood on the same “cushion” of sand and crushed stone.

If you want to achieve maximum service life, the timber should be wrapped in polyethylene, roofing felt and other similar fabrics that do not allow moisture to pass through.

Each individual bar is connected to the next one through the use of corners.

Columnar option.

The simplest and most cost-effective is columnar base: it will require a little time to organize, plus everything - minimum costs building material.

Initially, you need to dig narrow holes with a minimum depth of half a meter - in the corners and in increments of 3 meters.

Wood formwork is installed in each resulting cell, sand is poured, crushed stone or crushed stone is laid on top, compacted, periodically watering with water (a small amount) - to achieve the most tight fastening.

When the formwork is centered and securely fixed, it is filled with concrete mixture.

Organization of the frame.

To simplify the construction process, as well as to minimize the number of construction waste, you should draw a plan in advance, guided by the available number of frames and the dimensions of the foundation. On this drawing you need to indicate the fixation points for intermediate and main (corner) beams, the location of doors, vents/windows, as well as the fixation height of the upper part of the frames for the greenhouse.

If we take into account the fact that the greenhouse will be built from old unnecessary frames - wood, then a wooden frame should be preferred. However, metal corners “work” well in this case.

Need to know: The binding of the lower part of such a structure is carried out at the stage of laying the upper sections of the foundation, it is filled with concrete or a similar mixture - for maximum effective adhesion to the base. As for the upper and central horizontal frames, they are fixed to the “skeleton” of the structure using self-tapping bolts of appropriate sizes (galvanized steel elements are most preferable).

Roof.

The most ergonomic roof configurations are considered to be triangular “houses” and, of course, arched hemispherical analogues. Both of these types tolerate winter drifts well - the snow simply rolls off the sloping slopes.

Arched covering.

Those who want to have an arched type of roof on a personal greenhouse made from window frames will have to fork out a little and order arched hollow pipes from the appropriate manufacturer. If the owner has a special pipe bending machine for personal use, then it is still worth using it - if you have experience working on this tool, Certainly.
In this situation, curved rods are fixed to transverse straight lines perpendicularly in increments of approximately 45-55 centimeters using self-tapping bolts.

Triangle roofs.

As for the triangular variation of the roof, it is assembled, like the previous one, on the ground and from separate strong boards, preferably strong laminated veneer lumber of the same diameter as the frames. The tops of the “triangles” are fixed to ridge boards or metal plates.

In order for the roof to be quite light, it should be covered either with a very dense film or with honeycomb (cellular) polycarbonate sheets.

Installation of frames directly.

The frames, prepared in advance - painted and impregnated with antiseptic compounds, are fixed to the racks to the frame using angles, self-tapping bolts and plates made of high-quality metal. Special hinges should be used to secure vents, windows and doors.

Advice: it is better to install moving parts on opposite sides of the greenhouse from window frames for better ventilation internal space greenhouses.

All leaks formed during the installation process must first be treated with sealant - blow out with foam and wood planks are hammered on top. The glass is inserted into frames and then sealed with special compounds of gels, silicon gels, etc.

If the owner wants to use film covering materials such as thick film, it is worth thinking about an assistant - it will be difficult to carry out such activities on your own. Here you need to understand that you should use not just nails or screws as fastening elements - this way the film at the fastening points will allow cold air currents to pass through, but pre-prepared wood slats.

In conclusion, it must be added that the service life of a greenhouse built from old window frames with your own hands will directly depend on the quality of preparatory and construction work, as well as proper ergonomic care - washing, antiseptic measures, etc.

DIY window frame greenhouse video

ABOUT stand-alone devices We heard a lot of greenhouses and even saw them. Windows are an excellent material for installing translucent structures. How to build a greenhouse from window frames yourself? We will talk about this in detail, with tips and recommendations.

Let's start with the statement that building a greenhouse from window frames is difficult. There is such a widespread opinion. In fact, this is said by those who are reluctant to move the cerebral gyrus.

Of course it's easier to buy finished design and install it according to the instructions, or even easier - just dream about your own large stationary greenhouse. In fact, everything is limited only by the ability to get material and dream a little.

Since in Russia there is a complete replacement of old wooden windows plastic ones will be relevant for many years to come, get required quantity frames are very easy. It is enough to collect them from residential buildings in time. Well, experts in this article will help you with your geometric fantasies.

Greenhouse from window profile- perfect solution! Wood is a durable and stable material, not exposed to precipitation and does not soften under the sun. Glass transmits light well and ultra-violet rays and protects against cold air.

In such a structure, any ventilation can be performed, in addition to opening the main big door, since the windows have vents. In other cases we. If you add some nuances, you can build a greenhouse from plastic windows, but it will be a more expensive structure. In any case, this building can be safely left for the winter without disassembling it. And there are many more advantages.

We mean: options

You can consider an infinite number variety of options, how to build a greenhouse from window frames, but there will still be only three main ones:

1. Sheathing boards can be used for the lower part of the main frame. Then, when weeding the beds, you are guaranteed not to damage the glass, just as when digging, watering, and so on.
2. You can insert glass from the same window frames into the finished frame. Such homemade design will look more elegant and complete.
3. You can join different existing window frames, and then the view will not be very presentable, and connecting different frames will not be very convenient.

What should we do when the frames are completely different? You need to show miracles of engineering, measure the parameters of each individual element, and try to draw up a diagram on a piece of paper. Very often, home-grown builders begin to assemble greenhouses from window profiles “as needed,” installing everything in order, one frame after another, without worrying about dimensions.

So you will end up with a very clumsy structure, uneven and uncomfortable. Ensuring sealing later will be very problematic. To do the roof - even more so.

"Rapid construction" plan

We list:

1. Initially, it is necessary to take care of the foundation of the greenhouse, for which a trench is dug along the entire perimeter of the greenhouse with the width and depth of a shovel. The trench is filled with crushed stone and fragments of old bricks, then with cement mortar. Often the foundation dries for a week or more, after which construction work can continue.
2. The second option for the base could be an ordinary brick stand. This type simple and does not require lengthy construction.
3. To keep the latches out of the way, they are torn out. You should definitely leave window hinges, since with their help the frames are connected to each other. It is very important that the frames must be installed with the windows inward so that they can be easily opened. It is convenient to use automatic windows for greenhouses.

1. After the greenhouse is assembled, the last of the frames is screwed onto the hinges to the adjacent one on only one side; it will then serve as a door.
2. All frames must be fastened with metal corners and plates.
3. In the corners of the greenhouse, metal corners are driven into the ground, and between the greenhouse and the corner there is a timber 50x40 mm, the length of which is 2.5 m at the front edge, and 1.9 m along the rear edge. In this way, a base for the roof is formed, which will be pitched. The vertical beams are fastened on top with bars, between which a sheathing is made of bars 40x40 mm.
4. On the front part, two frames are installed horizontally, the gap between which is fastened with a metal plate. Do-it-yourself greenhouses made from window frames are a huge field for creativity. You can even put it at an angle.
5. The roof sheathing is covered, which is attached using slats and screws. The film is similarly attached to the sides and back of the greenhouse.
6. The final stage is to foam the cracks with polyurethane foam, and the door can be closed using a nail or latch.

And now what the query “greenhouse made from window frames - video” usually does not show:

Fundamental knowledge

Why is a foundation needed? Because a do-it-yourself greenhouse made from old window frames is a “weighty” structure. Not only does wood have a significant specific gravity, but glass also makes the above-ground structure very heavy. We need to take care of the “underground” building! So that the structure does not sag, especially with constant watering, when the soil liquefies.

Choose:

• Brick is an expensive but reliable foundation. If installed correctly, it will last a long time and your window glass greenhouse will last a very long time. However, when watering, the brick may become waterlogged, which, coupled with temperature changes, will lead to its rapid destruction. Unless you waterproof it, of course.
• Stone is an even more expensive, but also more durable, reliable foundation option. It is acceptable if you have unused stone lying around on the site from previous construction. You can install a metal frame and even brick walls on it. It is more relaxed about external influences and waterlogging. If you use untreated stones, the cost will be seriously reduced.
• A window glass greenhouse is not heavy enough to require solid foundations. For temporary structures, especially those that will be removed for the winter, a wooden base is also a good idea. Will withstand heavy use 6-8 years, then it will need to be completely changed.

• Concrete is a good option; a shallow strip foundation is easy to install and lasts a long time. You will use it for a couple of decades without repair.

The most budget-friendly solution, of course, is a do-it-yourself greenhouse wooden base. Although, any of the options for self-construction, is suitable both in terms of labor intensity and cost.

Consolidation

We consolidate everything: both knowledge and frames. The construction of a greenhouse from window frames after the foundation is just beginning. We planned how to install the frames, we even adjusted them to size. All that remains is to fasten them together in place.

We are considering options:

• Wooden and plastic frames can be attached to the base and to each other using self-tapping screws and metal corners. The process is very simple, homemade greenhouses They are assembled from window frames quickly and even alone. When working you need to use building level, observe the verticals (the horizontal will automatically align at the top if the frames are the same in size). Corners can be attached both outside and internal corners windows The method is reliable.

• Nails and beams- the “old-fashioned” method, effective, angry and not entirely beautiful. But simple, even simpler than self-tapping screws. How to build a greenhouse from old windows with one hammer - ask your neighbor who is a carpenter. It will be enough to use 30x30 mm bars, no more. WITH inside a block or several are simply laid on the base, at any joint, to which the frames are nailed. You can repeat the process on top. As a result, the frames do not collide directly with each other.
• Fastening with wire or clamps. The method is the most economical, but the most unreliable. It’s reminiscent of the purely Russian rollicking approach, as they say, “where it hangs, we’ll tie it there.” Nevertheless, it has a right to exist and is often used in garden construction. With the note “I’ll redo it later.”

Covering

A greenhouse made of plastic windows is more complicated in this regard - keep this in mind right away. She has a profile profiled from above, such a tautology. It is uneven, so it will be difficult to attach to it. Unless, of course, we are talking about simply stretching a greenhouse film over the entire structure.

In general, the structure is already quite heavy, so it’s not worth aggravating the situation with glass on top. Just stretching the greenhouse film is a normal option. But the roof will be “flimsy”... Therefore, it is still advisable to put the frames on top.

Then let an apple fall on her from your sinful tree from Garden of Eden, the film will not break through. You can also use a mounting aluminum profile.

How to stretch the film - the imagination is limitless. If you figured out how to make a greenhouse from old window frames, and successfully secured everything, then you can also fix the film. Even ordinary wire twists will do, not to mention clamps.

Also important!

After all the work done, after covering the greenhouse, you need to check how correctly you built everything. And don’t forget that you not only need to know how to make a greenhouse from window frames, but also remember that you need to take care of it. This means washing, cleaning, maintaining the foundation, strengthening connections, and so on. Maintain stability, ensure light transmittance, monitor tightness and constantly ventilate.