A bathhouse is a humid and hot room, so electrification here has its own characteristics. Conditions such as high humidity and associated temperature can negatively affect wiring and the ability to safe operation all the benefits of electricity. How to make it truly safe? There are several rules.

In the case of baths ideal option electrification can be considered via a separate cable from the main distribution board. Ideally, it is recommended to use a separate grounding circuit. Below we will look at cable routing methods.

Hidden and open wiring

Bathhouse made of timber, logs or any other natural material- This is the most environmentally friendly option. In such a room you can have a pleasant time and relax. But besides these properties and characteristics, wood is most susceptible to fires, which most often occur due to various problems in the wiring.

Many people want the wiring elements not to be visible, but for safety, the electrical wiring in a log bathhouse should be open type. A closed version does not provide such opportunities. Here all communications are hidden under finishing materials.

Features of open wiring

The use of such a scheme makes the process of maintaining and repairing electrical communications simpler. In the event of any breakdown, you can always identify the location of the fault and quickly solve the problem.

How to install the inner shield

The shield is usually installed in dressing rooms or in rest rooms. The input machine, as well as the RCD, are mounted directly in it. A residual current device is necessary to ensure fire safety and reliable operation of lighting devices and other electrical devices. For a bathhouse, an RCD is simply necessary, since there is a high level of humidity.

Sockets, switches, boxes for external wiring installation must be splash-proof. It is recommended to enter from below. You should first prepare a U-shaped elbow - this is done so that condensation cannot get inside the devices.

All electrical wiring in the bathhouse should be carried out only through automatic machines or special devices protective shutdown, but the shutdown current must be from 10 to 30 mA. It is recommended to use reduced voltages for the steam room, as well as for the washing room. However, this will require an expensive system. Experts advise checking the operation of residual current devices every month. It is advisable to carry out all wiring with double-insulated cable in order to avoid fire in the room in the event of a short circuit. In the furnace and in the steam room, an ordinary heat-resistant wire is best suited.

As for lighting, it is preferable to use low-voltage equipment. Conductors must be connected only using the terminal method. Also, do not forget about grounding and lightning protection.

The electrical wiring itself can be placed either in a metal or in a corrugated tube made of or in a metal hose. It is also better to use boxes for power cables from non-flammable materials.

Conclusion

As you can see, do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a bathhouse is quite capable of ensuring safety and long-term operation. If you make a correct and competent project, choose the right cables and electrical equipment, follow the basic rules of installation and work with electricity, then everything will definitely work out. The main thing is that all work is carried out very, very carefully. If you don’t have the necessary knowledge for this, you shouldn’t take unnecessary risks. It is better to take the help of professionals.

So, we found out how you can install a power cable in a bathhouse yourself.

Electricity can be supplied to the bathhouse with your own hands. It is necessary that the electrical wiring in the bathhouse be installed before starting finishing works, which will once again protect it from contact with water. More useful information is below in the article.

Today, the construction of wooden baths is very common, either from a log house or using many finishing materials all from the same wood. A tree in a bathhouse will never be ordinary - it’s not every day that we steam in such an environment. But wood is the most fire-hazardous material, so electrical wiring wooden bath must be open.

This method allows you to significantly simplify the maintenance of communications and make renovation work more convenient. For installation of wires, cable channels are used, which are made of fireproof materials. To protect against overheating of communications, cable channels should not be allowed to be filled to 100%. Otherwise, the possibility of removing heat that is generated from heating the wires is eliminated, and this very often becomes the cause of short circuits. Ideally, the cable channels are only 60% filled.

Before installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse, you need to draw up a complete electrical diagram of the entire structure. The cable must be laid only horizontally or vertically. Twisting and bending should not be allowed. So as not to spoil appearance structures, they try to place all the wires unnoticed, but it must be remembered that communications should not pass closer than 50 cm from metal pipes and batteries.

It is acceptable to use the method hidden installation wires, but it is used much less frequently. Cables are hidden either in metal pipes or behind suspended ceilings. The most vulnerable point of the wiring in this case is the cable joints, so their insulation must be given special attention Special attention.

There are two ways to lay an electrical cable: overhead or underground. As a rule, the main factor in choosing one or another installation option is the distance between the bathhouse and the distribution panel. This point must be provided for in advance by the bathhouse design. Each method has certain “pros” and “cons” that need to be considered in more detail.

Cable installation by air is a more economical option, since the cable is pulled through the air. If the distance from the distribution panel to the bathhouse exceeds 25 m, then it is necessary to install an intermediate support. Aerial cable laying should be carried out either on porcelain insulators or on guy wires. You also need to observe the height of the electrical cable.

For example, over pedestrian paths it should extend at a height of 3.5 m above the ground. If we're talking about about the roadway, then minimum height should be 6 m. The cable is attached directly to the bathhouse at a level of 2.75 m above the ground. For overhead installation, it is customary to use SIP wires (self-supporting insulated wire). They are covered with a special protective layer made of high-quality polyethylene, and are also equipped with special load-bearing elements, which are not afraid of strong overloads.

The warranty period for such products is 25 years. However, connecting it to a circuit breaker is quite inconvenient, which is undoubtedly a disadvantage.

A cable with a minimum cross-section of 16 mm 2 is used. It is capable of passing up to 63 amperes: in case single-phase connection the power will be 14 kW, with three-phase - 42 kW. For a structure such as a bathhouse, such values ​​are quite sufficient. You need to remember one point: SIPs are wires made of aluminum, so their laying attic spaces prohibited. A cable of type VVG, NG or NYM with a cross section of 10 mm 2 is already inserted into the bathhouse. It is important that sealed copper-aluminum connectors are used for the transition.

If you are thinking about how to make the electrical wiring in your bathhouse safer, you should follow certain rules. When constructing a steam room, remember that switches and sockets cannot be placed in it. Their presence is permissible only in the dressing room or rest room, and devices with a protection class of IP-44 and higher are used. Sockets must have caps that protect them from direct contact with water drops. The protection class of lamps must be at least IP-54. Do not install wiring directly above the stove.

This method requires additional costs, since it involves digging a trench up to one meter deep. In this case, a more expensive cable with copper conductors and additional armor is used - VBBShV. Thanks to the steel braid, which is located between the inner and outer plastic sheath, the cable cannot be damaged by mice or moles. He is also not afraid of land shrinkage.

Cannot be used for underground installation metal pipelines, since condensation forms in them. However, you can use a pipe (or corner) with a height of at least 1.8 m in places where the cable descends into the ground. Just as with air installation, the wire is inserted into the bath through a metal sleeve, which perfectly protects it from damage that occurs when the wall shrinks.

To pave electrical cable underground, you need to dig a trench at least 0.7 m deep. To create a “pillow”, a layer of sand of about 10 cm is poured onto the bottom, after which the cable is pulled. At this stage, it is very important to prevent tension on the cable, which may occur due to soil displacement or changes in air temperature. To do this, it is laid in the trench not in a straight line, but in a wave-like manner. After this, the wire is again covered with a layer of sand and earth.

Electrical wiring in the bathhouse and installation of the internal panel

The shield is usually installed in the dressing room, but it can also be located in the rest room or even on

Not one big one, but important stage construction simply cannot be avoided. It is necessary to provide electricity to the bathhouse, make proper wiring inside the room in accordance with established rules and install points: sockets, switches and lighting fixtures, according to the diagram. About this and that how to do wiring in a bathhouse and a steam room with your own hands, you will learn from this article.

How to connect a sauna to electricity from the house?

The bathhouse is built separately from the house and is connected to the switchboard with a separate cable, through its own machine and RCD. Most often, the power cable is laid underground, which has some advantages over creating an overhead line.

• The number one advantage is that this type of gasket provides cable safety and eliminates its breakage in gusty or squally winds.
• Advantage number two is that cable inconspicuousness does not spoil the external aesthetic appearance of the surrounding landscape. Switchboard most often installed at the entrance to the room, with outside, but installation indoors is also possible. Connected to this shield electrical sockets and lighting fixtures.

If you plan to install additional electrical equipment - electric oven(although who will bet on frame version or an electric stove in a log house?), a steam generator, electric heating, then the total power must correspond not only to the wiring in the bathhouse and steam room, but also to the main power cable itself.

Separately standing bathhouse can be connected with a SIP cable or aluminum wires without insulation, which are stretched between two buildings. It is better to choose a SIP cable so as not to pull it over a section of wire without insulation. The SIP system has its own system of fastening to facades and a load-bearing steel core, which makes it possible to tension the cable.

If the footage from the line connection point is more than 25 meters, an intermediate pole must be installed. The SIP cable has aluminum wires and cannot be inserted into wooden sauna. To enter the bathhouse, a power circuit breaker or switch is installed on the facade, after which a cable with copper wires and using a metal sleeve is introduced into the room.

Underground electrical cable installation

This method of connecting a bath will require a significant amount of earthworks when digging a trench with a depth of 0.8 to 1.2 meters, from the connection point to the bathhouse. Cable for underground laying You can lay it directly into the ground or use a plastic sleeve from a pipe to better protect the cable from damage.

For these purposes, it is better to use products with insulation made from XLPE grade cross-linked polyethylene, which has a guarantee of about 25 years. The cable can be connected to two panels from below, through the foundation along interior wall with its installation in a metal pipe. This type of connection is designed to protect the cable from possible damage mechanical nature and compliance with the requirements of the PUE.

Installation of distribution panel

The dimensions of the internal shield are determined by the number of used circuit breakers and RCDs that will be installed. The shield is placed at a height of 1.5 to 2 m from the floor near the entrance to the bathhouse in order to turn it on upon entering. At the input, an RCD must be installed for all electrical wiring and an input circuit breaker, which must have a lower operating current than the circuit breaker in the house that protects the outgoing line. If a 25 A automatic circuit breaker is installed in the house, a 20 A automatic circuit breaker can be installed in the bathhouse at the input. The RCD at the input protects all the electrical wiring of the bathhouse and is designed to protect the bathhouse from fire and protect people from possible electric shock if it leaks.

Electrics in the bathhouse: rules, wiring diagram

Next, we will consider two main issues that arise when installing electrics in a bathhouse. First, for example, consider the simplest working diagram wiring installation in the dressing room, with detailed description the whole process. Further important practical advice on the topic: do-it-yourself wiring in a bathhouse.

Correct wiring diagram in the bathhouse and its step-by-step installation

If you are looking for information that will indicate where and how many sockets, switches, and lamps you should install, then this is not entirely the right approach to resolve the issue.

Start thinking about what devices you will use and where they will be located. Determine places for switches, lamps and start creating your wiring diagram in the bathhouse. Functional placement of electrics is when, upon entering the room, the switch is located by itself, turning on the TV is not associated with rearranging the furniture, and using the socket does not imply adopting a horizontal position. Below are the step-by-step steps:

Step one: Drawing a wiring diagram

Let's get started with a simple working electrical diagram for the dressing room. The minimum set of points consists of:

• Switch (1 pc.);
• Electrical sockets (2 pcs.);
• Lamp (1 pc.);
• Distribution box (1 pc.);
• Automatic switch (1 pc.).

The simplest wiring diagram wiring for the dressing room, taking into account distances and installation locations
In the photo: Designation circuit breaker on the diagram
In the photo: Designation of electric lamps on the diagram
In the photo: Designation of the switch on the diagram
In the photo: Designation of sockets on the diagram
In the photo: Layout of all nodes and points

Step two: We install cable channels (canisters) or corrugation (tubes) for wiring

All wires, in case open wiring, must be protected by plastic cases or corrugated hoses. And this is really important!

I want to give you a real one example from life. In a city apartment, children were playing ball in the hallway. The ball hit the wall along which the insulated wire from the lamp ran down and the wire turned into a fuse cord. A white, luminous point began to move, devouring the insulation. I turned off the lamp, but it was too late, the process had already begun. It’s good that there was no cobweb or “dust bunny” in the way of the light and the light did not have time to hide in the wooden baseboard and the process itself was controlled by adults, otherwise a fire could not have been avoided.

If you choose corrugation, then all the wiring is passed through it in advance using an internal wire. When planning and calculating the volume of material, take it with a small (5-10%) reserve. If you opted for cable channels - pencil cases (and I prefer this option), then the laying of the wire can be carried out directly when connecting the wiring. When choosing pencil cases, be guided by the wiring dimensions. You can’t take a small volume because the wire won’t fit, and there’s simply no point in taking more than you need.

In the photo: cable channels of various sizes for wiring
In the photo: wiring laid to the switch in the cable channel

Step three: Laying wires in cable channels

Having started installing the wiring in the bathhouse, you must, of course, be provided with the appropriate wires and cables. But how to choose a wire from the required material With required section? Having in hand professional project no questions will arise, but how to solve it if the circuit and the wiring itself are made independently?

Some simple rules will help you cope with this task:

1. We do not purchase aluminum wires. Why? Increased fragility, inability to directly twist with copper, lower throughput with equal cross-section;
2. We use multi-core wires: usually two or three wires, when planning a grounding device;
3. For food points household appliances from the junction box, use a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2;
4. For lamps with a power from 0.1 to 2 kW, a wire with a cross-section of even 0.5 mm 2 is sufficient;
5. When purchasing a wire, follow the priorities in descending order: material, cross-section, insulation, price.

Table

ratio of the cross-section of stranded copper wire for use in a network with a voltage of 220V to the load power

Wire cross-section in mm	Power in kW	Current in A
0,5	2,4	11
0,75	3,3	15
1	3,7	17
1,5	5	23
2	5,7	26

Step four: We connect the wiring according to the wiring diagram

And so, there is a diagram, the cable channels are installed, the wiring is routed, all that remains is to connect the pre-purchased sockets, switches and lamps into one working circuit. During the connection process, I recommend using two methods: the block method and the twisting method. In fact, some count 5, seven or even 7! such methods, but the ones I offer are the simplest, most reliable and not expensive.

Preparation and installation of connections in the block

The first step is to remove part of the insulation of the wire that will be attached to the terminal. As soon as it is not removed! Teeth and a sharp knife are not very good a good option. It’s clear about teeth, but when using a knife, there is a possibility of damage to the conductive part of the wire. It is possible to use heating with a suitable device, or even better, purchase an automatic stripper - a special tool for removing insulation.

Wire Stripping Tools

You need to measure about 3 cm from the beginning of the wire and melt (or bite off with a stripper) part of the insulation. We pull out the conductive part, leaving 1 cm and then, twisting the wire, we get a perfect twist. After twisting, cut off the excess with pliers and solder the conductive part.

Preparing the wire for installation in the block

After this, we twist the exposed conductive part for connection into the block and insert it under the washer into the sockets of the block and tighten the screw. Carbolite terminal blocks are mounted in accordance with GOST 17557-88. Installation of wires with a cross-section of up to 1.5 mm in such blocks does not pose any difficulties at all.

Installation of the wire in the block and installation in distribution box

Preparation and installation of twisted connections

You can make connections by twisting the wires. This option is cheaper, but not by much, so the choice is yours. Although after installation by twisting, everything will be hidden in the junction box and on aesthetic side The chosen option will not affect the issue in any way. And regarding the reliability and efficiency of twisting as a connection method, we can say the following.

At the moment, this method of connection is a little disliked, suggesting that it is morally outdated and somehow flawed, especially construction market offers us many affordable, modern and technological solutions. But the fact remains: twisting is one of the most reliable types of installation for one simple reason. At quality connection The contact area of ​​the connected elements is greater when using other options! And this, in turn, provides confidence that overheating of the connection point will not occur, which makes this choice safer and more reliable.

How to make high-quality twist?

• We remove part of the insulating coating of the wires;
• We make a kind of fan out of each wire;
• We combine the resulting fans in one plane;
• We perform manual twisting of wires;
• We perform additional twisting using pliers;
• We solder the resulting twist;
• We remove the end of the resulting twist using wire cutters;
• We insulate the connection with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.

How to make a quality twist

That's all, the virtual installation of wiring in the bathhouse according to the chosen scheme is completed. But, however, in order not to deceive the expectations of individual readers, I am posting working proven wiring diagram in the bathhouse. Based on it, everyone can make their own design that suits them, removing or adding the necessary elements.

Electrics in the bathhouse: important practical tips

In conclusion, I will give a few simple but important practical advice regarding the organization of electrics in the bathhouse. There are NO insignificant moments that relate to electrics!

• Power sockets are connected to the switchboard with a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 brand VVG or NYM 3x2.5, the lighting and switch are connected with the same cable with a wire cross-section of 1.5 sq. mm.
• All passages through walls performed in a metal sleeve;
• Cable laid at a height of 10 cm from the ceiling, distribution pipes are installed at the same distance boxes;
• Switches and distribution boxes installed on the side of relatively dry rooms;
• Sockets in the steam room are not installed, in the bathroom or washing room you can install sockets with a degree of protection IP44, for the protection of which a separate RCD and automatic circuit breaker are installed in the panel;
• Lamps are connected to the junction box with a 3x1.5 cable and when laying the cable under wood trim steam rooms or sinks must be inside a metal pipe;
• To avoid laying cables in a pipe, lamps in the steam room can be installed in the corners, and connected from above through the attic to reduce the length of the cable that runs under the lining, and first pass the cable into copper pipe, which is easier to mount and bend;
• Do not try hide the wiring under wooden baseboard, place the wires near the floor together with sockets and extension cords. What if you accidentally drop a bucket of water, there will be fireworks! Perhaps an additional RCD needs to be installed. Remember about children, pets, start worrying in advance;
• Do not twist together aluminum and copper wire. This is an unreliable connection, it will oxidize over time and there will be no necessary contact, and with a high current there will also be heating, and then it’s not far from a fire. Don’t make such a connection even for a while, then you will forget, and everything temporary becomes permanent. Use contact connectors.
• For greater safety, after each entry of electrical wires, be it a bathhouse, an outbuilding or a house, it is advisable to install separate automatic fuse. This will make troubleshooting easier in the future and will ensure better protection, and in the case short circuit it will work faster;
• If single-phase wiring, then it is advisable to separate wires for sockets through your automatic fuse and wires for lighting through another. You won’t be left in complete darkness; again, it’s easier to find the cause of the problem yourself later. If electrical network– three-phase, then each phase must be evenly loaded with consumers. For example, connect one phase to sockets, the second to lighting, the third to economic needs: pump, water heater, household lighting, etc. Overload in case of simultaneous switching on of electrical appliances is excluded.

Three words about connectors and why I don’t like them?

Regarding the connectors - a separate issue, I personally am afraid to use them, this disease remains from using the Volga car. When I turned on the low beam, smoke poured out from under the torpedo, this forced me to return from the dacha before darkness, I remember I even had to exceed the speed limit so as not to catch fire. They passed a law - drive with the headlights on, decided that they were completely under pressure, couldn’t stand it, removed the dashboard, cleaned the contact connection on the switch and soldered it. A friend’s torpedo on the number nine burnt out completely; he barely managed to jump out of the car, lucky! If copper wires are used, it is better to twist them, solder them, and wrap them with insulating tape. If you are confident in the quality of the connecting contacts, then it is easier with them.

Which circuit should I put the light switch on?

I recently made an important discovery for myself. Have you ever wondered which circuit to install the light switch on - phase or zero? Do you know that yourself? At first I thought that it would be safer to use the neutral wire; it wouldn’t shake if the switch broke. It turned out that phase - safer. If a light bulb socket is stuck in a chandelier, but the bulb itself remains in your hands, turn off the light and, using pliers on a stepladder, without fear of shaking, calmly unscrew the socket. If you approach it in the reverse order, then in case of shaking, falling from a stepladder, pushing off from a chandelier, is extremely inconvenient than sliding down the wall with a switch.

About lamps and dimmers in the bathhouse

And one more thing about lamps. Now everyone is gradually abandoning incandescent lamps and switch to energy-saving and rightly so, such lamps save electricity, last longer and heat up slightly. However, it must be taken into account that some lighting control devices on the market, in particular dimmers (light intensity regulators) and switches with diode backlighting, are not suitable for such lamps.

As for dimmers, you need to use special models for energy saving lamps , dimmers for conventional lamps with energy-saving lamps do not work due to the design features of the latter. LED-backlit switches can cause lamps to flicker when the lights are off, which is again due to differences in the design of conventional and energy-saving lamps. If your lamp flickers when the lights are off, then the switch may be to blame. You need to either turn off the backlight diode in the switch, or use special switch, I think that such should exist.

This article is over... It is clear that for some the number of letters, text and information presented will seem excessive, for others, on the contrary, something will not be enough. However, the purpose of this article was not to make you a ready-made professional electrician. The goal was to provide an understanding of the entire process of organizing electrics in a bathhouse with your own hands, as well as to draw attention to individual important points its installation. I hope this worked out and the information is useful to you...

Any owner, having a private house or good country cottage area, dreams of a bathhouse, at least small, but quite cozy. When constructing and equipping this structure, it is worth considering that it is quite unsafe and the correctly selected wire will protect against fire in the room.

Zones in the bathhouse

The most unsafe place in a bathhouse is the steam room. A conventional or electric oven is placed in this room and the temperature can reach 130 degrees Celsius, and at the same time the humidity is also high, approximately 90%. Considering these factors, anyone can conclude that aggressive environment will easily damage the top sheaths of the wires.

The first thing you need to understand is the zones into which a steam room in a bathhouse or sauna is divided according to GOST R 50571.12-96. According to this document, rooms with the greatest risk of electrical fire are divided into four zones, they are marked in the figure.

• the first zone is intended only for the installation of stoves of any type;
• the second zone is characterized by the fact that it has no special requirements for moisture or heat resistance;
• the third zone increases its demands, and here electrical appliances must work well at temperatures above 120 C, and the wiring must cope with heating greater than 170 C;
• if an electric oven is installed in the steam room, then only equipment for controlling this oven or automatic shutdown sensors should be placed in the fourth zone. There should be no other electrical appliances in this place.

The last two zones are the most dangerous, so here you need to select the most insulated and heat-resistant wires. Domestic manufacturers offer the following options:

1. wire RKGM, PRKA, PRKS, PVKV, which has many copper wires inside, it is quite flexible and can withstand temperatures up to 180 degrees;
2. PMTC wire can consist of either one or many wires; it also bends well, but can withstand up to 200 degrees.

Other rooms in the bathhouse are not so dangerous and the VVGng-LS wire is suitable here. Don’t forget the cable cross-section; this value for steam room wires should be at least 2.5 square meters. mm, and for other rooms - 1.5 sq. mm.

Heat-resistant cable for saunas and baths.

Let's take a closer look at the markings of heat-resistant wires and go through the characteristics to see how reliable and practical they are.

Let's start with RKGM

This wire is covered on top with silicone rubber (RS), which acts as an insulator; inside there are bare copper wires (GM). It also has a fiberglass winding that sits between the insulation and the wires themselves. This winding allows the RKGM brand cable not to react to external stimuli such as elevated temperature (up to 180) and humidity (up to 100%).

If a fire occurs, the wire does not burn, and mold is also not afraid of it. Thanks to its strong insulation, it withstands shocks and mechanical damage. Considering all of the above, we can say with confidence that the RKGM wire is perfect for any area in the steam room of a bath or sauna.

PRKA

This brand also has a coating of organosilicon rubber (RO) and has increased hardness (A). The letter P means "wire". Works great when the temperature rises to 1700C-1800C, and fairly high humidity up to 90%.

It burns poorly, but when ignited, it emits little smoke, does not break if multiple bends occur during installation, and is not affected by mold. Well suited for baths and saunas.

Next wire PRKS

This cable inside can consist of several cores, from two to five. Their winding different colors, but one must be blue or blue color. A vein of this shade always goes to zero. If there are more than two wires in the wire, then there is a ground connection, which is indicated in green.

This wire (P) is insulated with silicone rubber (CR) for connection (C). Can withstand heating up to 2500C. With significant overheating, it does not emit toxic substances, and is also not deformable under conditions high humidity. This cable is perfect for a bath.

Next, let's get acquainted with the PVKV wire

The wire (P) is intended for the terminals of the windings (B), has insulation represented by silicone rubber in two layers (KV). Handles heat well environment even up to 200 degrees, and increasing humidity levels up to 90%. Mold and mechanical stress do not in any way affect the performance of this cable.

PMTK

The installation wire (PM) has high heat-resistant (T) characteristics, like all heat-resistant ones, and is insulated with silicone rubber.

It can be either single-core or multi-core. In the multi-core version, each core is marked with a separate color, just like the PRKS brand wire. Resistant to high temperatures, but does not tolerate strong drops to -250C. There is no maximum humidity level negative influence on the wire.

The last cable that is suitable for installing wiring in the VVGng-LS bathhouse

This copper cable, which consists of several veins. The external insulation, as well as the individual insulation of each core, is made of polyvinyl chloride rubber. It burns poorly, but when ignited it emits very little smoke, which makes it possible to quickly leave the room if a life-threatening situation arises. It works well in conditions with high humidity, but cannot withstand heating above 50. It cannot be used in a steam room, but it is perfect for other rooms in the bathhouse.

After reviewing some representatives of heat-resistant wires, we can draw some conclusions. All of them have silicone winding, which helps copper wire withstand elevated temperatures external environment, high levels of air humidity, and, like RKGM, do not succumb to mold.

Wiring is a simple matter, but wiring electricity in a bathhouse is a procedure that has a number of important nuances. Because a bathhouse is, first of all, a room with high level humidity and at a fairly high temperature.

Of course, electrical installation in such conditions implies its own characteristics, which significantly distinguish the entire process from installing electrical wiring in a residential building.

Do you want to install light in the bathhouse, having foreseen all possible pitfalls in advance? Then this article is for you! It provides clear instructions on how to install wiring in a bathhouse yourself.

The nuances of installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse

The process of electrifying a bathhouse has some peculiarities. The main ones are the following:

• The wiring must be carried out “openly” (in this case, in the steam room, the wires are routed along the shortest path from the power source to the consumer);
• It is mandatory to have a protective power cut-off device, as well as automated switches;
• It is strictly prohibited to install sockets or light switches in the steam room (all such devices must be located outside the room);
• Under no circumstances should wires be laid above the stove;
• protection class for sockets and switches is at least IP-44, protection class for bath lighting fixtures is at least IP-54.
• It is mandatory to have both lightning protection and grounding;
• at high humidity, the electrical current path cannot be placed in metal pipes (such protection is used only when the line runs in the plane of the wall);
• The insulation of the wires must be non-flammable (it is recommended to use).

If your bathhouse has not yet been electrified, then we advise you to read the article about.

We would also like to provide you with some proven tips:

1. The cross-section of the cores when laying a line on the street must be at least 16 millimeters. What causes this condition? First of all, because in modern bath it is possible to use powerful electrical appliances. For example: a boiler for heating water, a stove, heat gun and even a washing machine.
2. Be sure to install a protective metal plate between the wood stud and the electrical outlet or switch.
3. When laying the cable, be sure to lay it underneath thin strip asbestos sheet. This will serve as protection against fire, because asbestos is a reliable fire-resistant material.
4. Carrying out interior work, be sure to use products that have heat-resistant insulation.
5. It would be useful to lay the electrical cable in a special corrugation made of non-flammable material. This will not only prevent the instant spread of fire in the event of spontaneous combustion of the insulation, but will also look much more aesthetically pleasing than fastening the cable to insulators.

Wiring diagram in the bathhouse

You can't do without a wiring diagram. We invite you to familiarize yourself with its two options. The first one looks like this:

Numbers on the diagram:

1 – Power line input;

2 – Grounding;

3 – Automatic protective device;

4 – RCD (residual current devices);

5 – Zero bus;

6 – Automatic switches (disconnecting sockets, lights, etc.);

7 – Automatic oven zero;

8 – Three-phase circuit breaker for the stove.

The second version of the diagram looks like this:

Of course, it is quite possible to independently create a similar diagram similar to those provided. The main thing is not to forget to mark everything key elements and indicate the location of each of them. In this case, it is advisable to place the distribution panel itself in the rest room or dressing room.

Installation process

It's time to get down to business - conducting electricity. The procedure itself involves several main steps:

1. Calculation of the required cable cross-section;
2. Selection of all components (lighting fixtures, switches, electrical sockets, etc.);
3. Connecting a power line from the street to the bathhouse building;
4. Carrying out wiring directly indoors.

Let's take a closer look at each of the above stages.

Calculation of wire cross-section

This stage of work is extremely important. Here the selection of a cross-section of cores is carried out that could reliably withstand the entire volume of current loads. The calculation technology is best demonstrated with a clear example.

Let's assume that we planned to install 5 lamps in the bathhouse. Each of them has a power of 100 watts. It is also planned to install a stove, a washing machine and a heater for the recreation room. The power of the heater is 4 kilowatts, washing machine– 2 kilowatts, heaters – also 2 kilowatts. What do we get? 8.5 kilowatts. The minimum power reserve that should be added to the resulting amount is about twenty percent. As a result of calculations, we get 10.2 kilowatts. To determine the current value (we need this to select the cross section) we need total power divided by voltage - 220 Volts. Let's count: 10200 divided by 220 and we get 46 Amperes. Given the current value obtained, it is most advisable to take a cable with a cross-section of 6 mm. sq., since it can withstand such a load without any problems.

Separately, it is worth paying attention to the fact that a similar principle is useful for calculating a circuit breaker. The difference will be that here we will not use the power of all devices, but only the circuit we need.

Laying from the street and wiring indoors

You can run a cable from the street panel to the bathhouse both over the air and underground - this is a matter of purely personal preference. In general, overhead installation is simpler and cheaper, underground installation is more reliable, but more expensive.

Having brought the cable to the bathhouse, it is necessary to wire it to the rooms. The cable must pass open method in non-flammable corrugation. When brought to electrical devices the cable is connected exclusively from the bottom (a U-shaped bend is made). When the entire route has been completed, we connect to the circuit breakers.

Of course, after carrying out the work, it is better to call a professional electrician who can check their correctness. You won't spend a lot of money, but you can be calm and firmly confident in your safety.

Selecting accessories

The cable cross-section has been calculated, which means it’s time to choose electrical fittings and other components for the bath wiring. As mentioned above, VVGng cable is the most best option for switches and electrical sockets. You can also purchase NYM, which is considered a “more expensive” analogue. As for the cross-section, for sockets it should be at least 2.5 mm. sq., while for switches - 1.5 mm. sq.

Cable VVGng - perfect solution for wiring in the bath

When choosing a suitable lamp, remember that it must be waterproof. Also, its properties must correspond to the environment of its use - a room with high levels of humidity and temperature. The level of protection of switches and electrical sockets must meet the following requirements: their housings must be sealed and not allow moisture to pass through; they must also be equipped with lids.