Experienced rabbit breeders should know how rabbit cages are built with your own hands. Only in this case can you be sure that long-eared pets will not be endangered by low-quality materials or improper manufacturing processes. There are no particularly specific conditions for keeping rabbits; you just have to take into account that their wild counterparts live in ordinary burrows. Since there is nothing complicated about how to build a rabbit cage with your own hands, even novice rabbit farmers can do it.

Cell components and materials used

Any cage intended for rabbits must be equipped in a certain way. It must contain the following parts:

• The frame and supports on which the entire structure rests are made of wooden blocks. To ensure that rabbits kept outside are protected from rodents, cats and dogs, it is worth placing their cage at a height of about 70 cm from the ground.
• Walls made from plywood, boards or mesh. For beauty, you can decorate the walls outside plastic or wooden slats. For ease of cage care façade parts make two doors (one from a mesh, the other from a board).
• Floor most often made from slats or mesh. Some rabbit breeders install a solid floor, only placing a mesh in the back to remove waste through it. There are adherents different materials, who learn from their own experience what is best for animals kept in different conditions.
• The roof is most often made of the same material as the walls, and to protect against conditions environment When kept outdoors, you can install additional covering from any roofing material.

When creating cages for rabbits, it is not recommended to use metal. In the heat, the iron becomes hot, which causes discomfort for animals, and in the cold they can easily freeze to such a coating. Even when creating the simplest cage for rabbits with your own hands, you need to make sure that all the parts are smooth and not dangerous. Any defects in the mesh should be eliminated, and the wood should be treated with sandpaper.

Various designs

Before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, it is worth finding out what designs exist for keeping them. Several types of structures are now known:

1. An ordinary cage for keeping rabbits is represented by a kind of box on high legs with two doors. Inside, the space is divided into a feeding and nesting compartment, and a manhole is equipped between them. Cages should be equipped with feeders and drinkers of various designs, as well as sufficient space for the animal to be active. If you make the most popular rabbit cage with your own hands, its diagram should look something like this:

Some sizes can be increased slightly, based on the breed of rabbits, but in most cases these are the parameters that are suitable for adults.

Of course, there are some differences when creating cages for young animals, pregnant and lactating females, and adults, but in general they are all built according to the same scheme. To keep two individuals in one cage, it is worth slightly increasing its size.

2. The design of the cell proposed by I.N. is considered very complex. Mikhailov. Mikhailov cages for rabbits are entire mini-farms or, as they are called in scientific sources, reproduction units. Its units are equipped ventilation systems, original feeders, many manholes and shelves, electrically heated uterine compartments and drinking bowls, self-removal systems for manure, etc. The head farm is constantly improving its cages, so followers should regularly visit the authors' farm to keep up with the latest developments in the field of accelerated rabbit breeding.

3. Unlike the previous unit, the design proposed by another author, N.I., has taken root among the people. Zolotukhin. Creating a Zolotukhin cage for rabbits with your own hands - not very difficult process, besides, the author does not even think about hiding his ideas. From above, its design looks like this:

The floor is made of plywood or flat slate, not from the grid. Mesh, about 10-15cm wide, is only used on the floor at the back of the cage, as this is where rabbits urinate most often. Zolotukhin’s designs are three-tiered: two cages in three floors, with each upper floor moved back by the distance of the grid in the floor - so the waste products of rabbits do not interfere with the inhabitants of the lower cages. Also, a distinctive characteristic of these cages is the absence of a stationary queen cell: in winter, a burrow house is placed in the cage, and in summer, the female rabbit makes a nest right in the hay.

Craftsmen also create other structures with different numbers of tiers and with different equipment, using combinations of the most suitable, in their opinion, components of the cage and building materials.

Stages of creation

It is worth considering in detail the process of creating the simplest single cage for a rabbit (more complex designs are also based on this approach):

1. First you need to choose a place where the rabbitry will be located. It should be protected as much as possible from wind and drafts.
2. The next thing you need to create a rabbit cage with your own hands is drawings. They take into account the purpose of a particular cell, its various contents, and the structure of the entire structure. When determining the size, you should rely on the size of a specific breed, but most often they take the size of 150*70*70 cm.
3. Next, a frame of beams is made according to the dimensions. If in the front part the height of the cage is usually 60-70 cm, then in the rear part the height is taken less (so that the roof is tilted).
4. The frame is sheathed with plywood, boards or other selected material. Inside, the cage is divided by a partition into nesting and feeding compartments, and a hole with a diameter of 20 cm is cut out in the partition. To prevent rabbits from gnawing the partition, it is better to line the hole with tin.
5. After the walls, they begin to make the roof (for ease of maintenance, it is better to make it removable).
6. Cages are hung on the façade doors, and the door to the aft compartment is made of mesh, and the door to the nest compartment is made of boards.
7. When keeping rabbits outside, you can attach an additional structure made of mesh for walking to the back of the cage. If you carefully think through the design of ladders and shelves, you can provide the rabbit with the opportunity to sometimes eat pasture.
shelves, etc.),
8. tall and solid pallet(this is important both for the pet itself, since its paws do not have pads, and for the owner, so that the contents of the cage are not scattered around),
9. absence of sharp elements, slippery surfaces, parts treated with varnish or paint for the safety of the big-eared animal.

Cages are usually purchased for residential use because they are quite beautiful. But beauty does not always mean convenience for a pet, and therefore it makes sense to think about how to make a cage for a decorative rabbit with your own hands. You can easily make a cage that will be similar to the purchased version from a fairly high rectangular basin (to create a tray) and galvanized mesh with cells no larger than 25*25 mm.

This mesh bends easily and does not break, making it easy to make a parallelepiped without a lower part, and insert the lower ends of the wire into pre-made holes on the side of the basin. There is a door on one of the walls. To prevent the floor from being slippery, you can pour sawdust into the cage or put corrugated cardboard on the bottom. At the end, you need to place a drinking bowl, feeder, ladder and other entertainment for your eared pet in the cage.

Rabbits are quite unpretentious in care. They are universal in matters of nutrition and do not require special conditions content. But, before you start breeding such animals, you should remember that the animals reproduce extremely quickly. Therefore, the ability to make cages for rabbits with your own hands will be very useful for the owner of a rabbit farm.

Types of cages for rabbits

On the Internet you can find a large number of options on how to build a rabbit cage yourself. But, before using one of them, you should remember that such designs involve division into several types. A standard rabbit farm should be equipped with at least three of them:

• rabbitries for individual housing of males;
• separate enclosures with a uterine compartment for a rabbit and newborn babies;
• common spacious houses for keeping young animals until they reach puberty.

Also, such structures are divided among themselves based on the materials used. constructive solutions. So, if there is space, they will be equipped with an attached walking area. With absence free space the cells are made two-tiered. The different options also differ in the design of the roof, floor, and materials used.

For males

When making cages for males with your own hands, you should take into account that as the heat approaches, they become quite aggressive. During this period, when the rabbits are kept together, fights often occur for territory and food. Therefore, to suppress aggressive manifestations, adult individuals are placed in individual cages. This measure will also allow better control of the process of reproduction of living creatures.

But when building an individual enclosure, you need to make sure that it is spacious enough. The animal needs constant activity to maintain its shape. If there is no room for it, the rabbit will become fat, which will affect the functioning of the genital organs and reproductive function in general. The sizes of cages for rabbits in this category suggest the following values:

• length – approximately 120 cm;
• width – varies between 70–75 cm;
• height – about 60 cm.

When calculating sizes for rabbits large breeds all values ​​are doubled.

For a female rabbit with offspring

A female rabbit with young animals has completely different physiological needs. Therefore, the house for her requires a different design. It includes two sections:

1. Uterine compartment. Here the female gives birth to babies, warms them and feeds them. The mother liquor is made from solid material, then covering all the cracks and holes with insulation. A thick layer of litter is placed on the bottom. The minimum dimensions of the queen cell are 40x40 cm. If necessary, such a compartment is supplemented with a separate door.
2. Aft compartment. Suitable for installing a drinking bowl and containers under the feeder. It is also made spacious so that the rabbit can move around to her heart's content. The aft compartment can be supplemented with mesh walls.

The compartments are connected to each other by a small passage. It is placed at least 10 cm above the floor surface. This moment is a precaution against newborn babies falling out into the cold feed compartment.

For young animals

Grown-up rabbits are moved to a house for group housing. In this case, making a rabbit cage with your own hands is also easy. The main thing is to accurately calculate its dimensions.

• length – 250–300 cm;
• width – 100–120 cm;
• height – 30–45 cm.

If necessary, the group housing method is also implemented in the cage options listed above. But the number of animals in this case is calculated taking into account its area.

Two-tier structures

The solution to the lack of free space on a rabbit farm is a two-tier house for rabbits. This design practically consists of two ordinary cells installed one on top of the other. However, it differs in certain features, including:

1. The presence of a common V-shaped canopy dividing each floor into compartments.
2. The presence of a pallet between the floor of the second tier and the ceiling of the first. To place it, the cells are connected with a small gap, and not end-to-end.
3. Placement of special containers under the floor for feces.
4. Each tier is supposed to have two compartments.

Make a two-story cage for rabbits with your own hands in accordance with step-by-step instructions:

1. Four identical rectangles are made from iron corners or thick timber.
2. The first rectangle is sheathed with a fine-grain mesh and placed on legs whose height is at least 30 cm. Long wooden blocks are used for this purpose.
3. Next, two frames are installed on the bars with a distance of 50 cm from each other. One of them serves as a roof for the first tier, so it is covered with wooden boards.
4. At a height of 10 cm from the second rectangle, a third one is mounted. It is also covered with mesh.
5. The last rectangle is again attached on top of the floor in increments of 50 cm. It is covered with a board. If the rabbitry is planned to be placed outside, an additional layer of roofing material is laid on top.
6. The side walls are covered with boards, plywood or mesh.
7. For the left niche between the first and second floors, a box is made and installed to collect rabbit manure.
8. A suitable size container for feces is selected under the bottom of the first tier and also placed under the finished structure.

The size of the enclosure can vary significantly. But the minimum length is 2.4 m. The width is at least 1.5 m. The height of the structure ranges from 1.8 to 2.2 m.

In general, a standard cage of this type can accommodate 4 animals. If necessary, a third floor is installed above the second floor, which significantly expands the capacity of the structure.

Walking

If the owner of rabbits has enough space on the site, it is recommended to make cages with walking. In this plan, two combined departments are also being assembled. The front is the standard option mentioned above. The only difference is a special passage made in the back wall and connecting the first section with a large closed enclosure.

This design is advantageous from the point of view that the animal has more space for activity. In addition, he receives fresh air and sunlight. All this helps to increase the productivity of the rodent and improve the quality of its coat.

The paddock is made approximately as follows:

1. They make a hole in the back blank wall of the main compartment.
2. Behind the main house, two more bars are dug in at the required distance.
3. Using slats, they construct the frame of the enclosure, connecting them with new dug-in bars and the rear supports of the main compartment.
4. A mesh is installed on the slats.

It is worth noting that if the enclosure is used only in the warm season, the legs do not need to be made. It will be installed on the ground. This option is also good because fresh vegetation appears through the floor cells, which the living creatures eat with pleasure.

Rabbit cage with walk

The minimum dimensions for a rabbitry with a walking enclosure are 200x100x60 cm. They can be increased upon request. The main thing is that there is enough space inside for active walks of animals.

Location of rabbit cages

In addition to how to make a rabbit hutch, you should also consider where to install it. There are also several recommendations in this regard.

The specific location of the rabbit houses is chosen taking into account the weather conditions of the area. If the climate is warm and does not require severe frosts In winter, enclosures are installed outside. Moreover, this type of livestock maintenance is carried out year-round.

If the winters are cold, then only in the summer the enclosures are located outside. With the onset of cold weather, they are transferred to a warm barn.

Each option also includes a number of features. For outdoor placement:

• the cages are installed with a dense back wall in the direction from which the wind most often blows in the region;
• when installing, choose places where there are no drafts;
• install houses on a certain hill where moisture does not accumulate after heavy rainfall;
• the roof is mounted so that water does not get inside the cells during rain;
• When placing houses in two rows, they are placed with their front parts facing each other at such a distance that a person can freely pass between them.

When moving rabbits indoors, you should adhere to the following rules:

• Natural lighting in the barn is not enough, so it must be supplemented with electric lamps evenly installed throughout the ceiling;
• artificial lighting in the room should be maintained for about 8-10 hours a day;
• windows and other openings in the walls should be located above the installed cages to avoid drafts;
• If the temperature in the barn drops very low in winter, you should consider using wood, electric or gas heating.

Important! Also, when located inside a barn, rabbit hutches are still installed on supports. This will reduce the amount of dust getting inside.

Materials and tools

Before you begin choosing a suitable material, you should develop a detailed drawing of such a project. Already-designed drawings of cages for rabbits are freely available on the Internet. Ready plan will allow you to accurately calculate the required volumes of material and not miss significant nuances in the assembly of the structure.

When preparing suitable materials, you should also take into account the fact that rabbits are rodents by nature. They easily damage the components of a fragile structure. Therefore, excessive savings here can lead to the fact that within a month or two the enclosure will have to be repaired or completely changed.

• wooden products: long beams, slats, boards;
• plywood;
• slate slabs;
• fine-grained mesh;
• nails, screws or staples to secure all elements.

There are also a number of important points that will significantly increase the life of the structure and will be useful for living creatures:

• Many manufacturers make the roof from metal sheets. This approach is fundamentally wrong. In the summer heat, the iron gets very hot, and excessive heat worsens the rabbits’ well-being. It is better to take slate, tiles or ordinary boards covered with roofing felt.
• All wooden elements The inside of the enclosure should be lined with tin. Otherwise, the rabbit will sharpen its teeth on them and quickly render them unusable.
• The mesh for the rabbitry is taken with hole sizes of 25x25 mm. Such material will be convenient for the rodent to move, but will not allow it to escape.
• Additionally, it is recommended to lay a sheet of plywood on the floor. This coating will prevent health problems for your rodent's paws. In addition, after a certain time it is enough to simply remove it, wash it thoroughly, dry it and can be reused.

It is also not recommended to use it as a frame base. metal corners and cross members. In winter, they can freeze, which will reduce the temperature inside the rabbitry. But the advantage of such elements is their strength.

Based on the selected materials, it is selected necessary tool. The minimum set in this regard includes:

• hacksaw;
• construction tape;
• hammer;
• metal scissors;
• sandpaper;
• screwdriver;
• plane;
• pliers.

When using metal elements, you may also need a drill and welding machine.

DIY making

The specific algorithm for making a cage for rabbits is based on the drawings used by the owner. As an example, let’s look at the simplest version of a rabbitry, which requires:

• 10 wooden blocks with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
• 2 large sheets of plywood;
• 3m metal mesh;
• self-tapping screws

The assembly of the structure takes place in the following stages:

1. From the bars we assemble a rectangle with dimensions of 3x0.7 m. Upon completion of the assembly, we fix it to the vertical bars, which will also act as legs. Moreover, the height of the rear vertical bars is 1 m. We leave the front ones a little longer (1.2 m).
2. We allocate part of the cage on both sides for the queen cells and lay out their floor completely with a board. Cover the remaining area of ​​the base with the prepared mesh.
3. We mount the back wall from boards using self-tapping screws.
4. At the required distance from the walls, we fix the vertical bars that limit the uterine compartment. We install a plywood wall with a hole made across the base across them. We mount the queen cell cover on top.
5. We place a hay feeder in the center of the rabbitry. We make it from two frames connected in the shape of the letter “V”. We install steel wire vertically on the frames with wide spacing.
6. Next to the hay feeder we install a standard feeder and drinker that is suitable in size and design. We fix them permanently.
7. We line the sides of the cage with plywood.
8. At the front we make frames for future doors. We make them from boards, cover them with mesh and fix them on hinges.
9. We install the roof on top. The ideal material for it is slate. The roof is mounted on a slope with a tight fit to the vertical bars. At the same time, it protrudes 10 cm beyond the side and rear walls, and 5 cm beyond the front wall. In the center we make a hole for laying hay and feed. We close it with a door made separately.

Attention! At the end of the work, use pliers to bend all the protruding parts of the mesh, and sand the protruding wooden elements and sharp corners with sandpaper.

A carefully designed and manufactured rabbit cage will provide the animal with comfortable conditions residence and will help maintain his health. In addition, the thoughtful design greatly simplifies the process of cleaning up after rodents. But before making it, you should carefully study the main points of such work.

Many livestock farms and private entrepreneurs are increasingly paying attention to rabbit breeding. Breeding these furry animals is quite a profitable business. So to speak, practically waste-free, since rabbit droppings are highly valued in agriculture as fertilizer.

Types of cages for rabbits

The single-section version of the cage is a spacious enclosure with doors, equipped with drinkers and feeders. The room is designed for one individual or, if the section is large, for walking young animals. A single-section rabbit cage is convenient for breeding animals in small quantities for your own needs.

Did you know? Rabbits are considered silent, but these animals often use various sounds to explain their condition. A contented, peaceful rabbit makes purring sounds, pleasure can be indicated by short clicks, aggression can be signaled by growling or grunting, fear can be indicated by chattering teeth, and if the fluffy one screams, it means he is in pain.

The cages, consisting of two sections, are separated by a V-shaped mesh feeder. In such a rabbit house you can keep a couple of animals by opening the flap between the sections when mating is planned.

The cages, consisting of three sections, allow you to keep three individuals (a male and two females); between the sections there are opening flaps. If necessary, one of the females can be allowed in to the male living in the central section. After communication& - divide again.

Cage type state farm "Klenovo - Chegodaevo"

The design of these cages is 240 cm long and 65 cm wide. The material for making the floor in such cages is wood, in a solid sheet or in a slatted manner. Feeders and drinkers are located inside the cages on the floor. There are insert boxes that are used as queen cells with removable feeders and bowls for babies.

Important! Little rabbits are gradually accustomed to adult food. The kids are grated carrots, steamed grain and given fine soft hay.

The convenient design of a two-tier mini-farm was developed and implemented by I. N. Mikhailov. There are two floors of cages on the frame-stand. The roof is made of translucent materials.

The installation of feeders and drinking bowls makes it possible to provide animals with food and water for a week. Such a device bunk cells for rabbits is convenient for those who cannot devote time to animals every day.

Cells designed by Zolotukhin

Zolotukhin’s design is a three-tier enclosure, two sections per tier. The upper tiers are shifted to the width of the grid of the lower floor obliquely, a kind of protrusion of the floor made of plywood or a flat sheet of slate.

A stationary queen cell is not provided: For a female with offspring, a portable hole is inserted for the winter. IN summer period the female with the rabbits is located in the hay, but is separated by a partition from the other animals.

The feeder in the form of a tray is inserted into the door frame, which allows you to pour food without opening the door.

Does it make sense to purchase an industrial cage?

For large-scale rabbit breeding, factory-produced rabbit cages will save time on making cages yourself. Such cages have many advantages: a clear design, equipped with convenient drinkers and feeders, trays for feces, nests for individual individuals.

The factory nets provide convenient queen cells for females with offspring. Drawings of rabbit cages are constantly being improved, designs are supplemented with innovative ideas, more convenient and rational designs are being invented for both the cages themselves and various devices for the life of animals.

The lack of factory cages in the frequent defects in the production of any parts of the house, the discrepancy between the size of the cage and its future location.

On the other hand, when making a cage for domestic rabbits yourself, the size of the cages is proportional to the space of their further location. Depending on the number of animals, the type of cage and the placement of partitions, drinkers, and feeders are selected.

It is possible to choose a material that is more convenient for you when making both the entire cage and the tray, feeders and other things.

Making your own cage

Before making housing for animals, you need to decide on the size of the premises: for adult males, females and cubs, for each individual rabbit the footage required for normal development and maximum convenience.

Professionals advise calculating the area of ​​a flock for rabbits so that there is at least 0.12 square meters per adult. It is advisable to immediately provide for all the nuances: partitions, location of drinkers and feeders, location of pallets.

Three-tier cages for rabbits will be optimal for a large number of animals; the project drawings can easily fit both a nursery for young animals and separate sections for males and females.

The advantage of such sheds is significant space savings and the ability to install the structure on the street or in a utility room.

Interesting!Newborn rabbits are naked and blind, and already on the twentieth day of life they can feed on their own.

Choosing a location for cells

It doesn’t matter what design you have in mind: small cages for rabbits or three-tier sheds, the main thing is right choice places.

The best place for an aviary would be a slightly shaded area, for example, in a garden among trees. In this case, the animals will be protected from drafts and overheating.

Professional rabbit breeders advise keeping furry pets in street conditions: animals develop immunity to diseases, wool quality improves, as well as the reproductive function and endurance of the offspring.

A good option is near the wall of a large utility room with a protruding visor, which will create additional protection from precipitation and direct rays of the sun. When kept outdoors, take care to insulate the cages in winter.

Two-story cages for rabbits can also be located indoors. In this case, carefully consider the removal of waste products: animals should not suffocate from the smell of their own feces.

Size and drawing

The dimensions of the proposed premises depend on the breed of animals and their number (take into account the offspring). The average premises have the following dimensions:

• length– 120-150 cm;
• width– 60-80 cm;
• wall height– 35-50 cm.

For young individuals, the length can be reduced to a meter. When building two-tier rabbit sheds, the second floor has the same dimensions, the difference will be if you choose Zolotukhin’s design.

When developing a drawing, take into account houses for females with offspring and rooms for young animals, think about the location of feeders and drinkers, convenience for you when cleaning cages, partitions that open for mating.

Think about how to insulate outdoor room for animals. You might like the idea of ​​adding a mesh aviary to the main house.

Required tools and materials

To build cells, it is better to use natural materials for the main parts of the room: wooden blocks, boards and slats, plywood sheets.

For the roof of the houses, it is advisable to use a slate base rather than metal. Metal sheets heat up quickly, as well as freeze in winter.

For individual parts you will need: galvanized mesh, door hinges, hooks and latches for doors. Tools and small parts:

• metal scissors;
• screws and screwdriver;
• nails and hammer;
• pliers;
• grinder, saw;
• tape measure, pencil and level.

The sizes of cages for rabbits differ depending on the age, breed, sex of the rodent and the purpose of the enclosure. There are standard sizes recommended for pregnant females. The location and compliance with the conditions of keeping the animal are very important.

Group structures are used for keeping young animals. Depending on the size of the enclosure, there are from 8 to 20 rodents in the cage. The animals are kept together as long as they have enough space. When the sex of the individual becomes possible to determine, the rodents are seated. It is recommended to keep no more than three individuals over three months old in one cage.

The minimum area of ​​the enclosure for two individuals is sq. m. Height - at least 0.35 m. The size of the structure depends on the number and age of rodents.

Enclosures for outdoor placement are built on one, two or three floors. It is recommended to raise the floor above the ground by 0.35 m. In winter, it is necessary to insulate the enclosures by adding straw to the floor.

Natural materials are used to construct the structure, since artificial ones negatively affect the health and development of rodents.

When designing, it is important to pay attention to the lighting and location of the cage. Young animals need protection from drafts and dim light. Adults tolerate cold and temperature changes better (depending on the breed). But for the winter, cages with young and adult animals are insulated.

Cage for adult rabbits

Dimensions rabbit cells depend on the age and sex of the rodent. Females with young animals are kept in large cages. For a regular rabbit, the cage parameters are 0.7 m wide, 0.6 m high and 1 m long.

For an adult, the size of the enclosure should be increased to 0.8 m in width, 0.5 in height and 1.5 in length. In dwellings of this size, rodents feel freer, develop faster and grow better.

Ventilation is considered an important stage when designing rabbit housing. The rabbitry should be well ventilated, protected from drafts and bright sunlight. The duration of daylight hours is from 8 to 16 hours. Attention should be paid to cleaning enclosures. Adults should be inspected during cleaning, and disinfection measures should be carried out in the cage.

Two-tier shed

- a two-story structure consisting of several cells placed in a row. The installation of such dwellings helps to save space and simplify the care of animals. It is recommended to use this type of outdoor maintenance in regions with warm climates or in heated rooms. Sheds are also installed outdoors in the summer.

It is important to build housing, raising it above the ground to a height of 0.5 m. Optimal sizes the structures are 2 m wide and 1 m deep. Two-tier sheds can be made independently using a one-sided type from boards, slate and metal mesh.

It is recommended to concrete the foundation to increase the stability of the structure. To simplify the care of animals, experienced rabbit breeders install manure channels and trays. This method makes cleaning easier and reduces the risk of disease.

Sheds allow you to keep several rabbits at the same time. Drawings created at the design stage can be used to create additional rows. All cells in a structure are created the same way. A canopy is installed over the sheds. The structures are installed close to each other.

In warm regions, shad keeping is possible all year round. In winter, water for rabbits is heated. The space between the cells is allocated for storing hay and grass. For feeding, waste-free systems are installed that need to be replenished every 3-7 days.

The bunker feeder is made independently from metal sheets. In the warm season, it is possible to use automatic drinkers. Transitions are installed at an angle to the exit. The back wall is solid. The cage has several windows with bars. In cold weather the windows are closed wooden sheets or hinged doors. In the passage between the shads, a suspended structure is built for transporting feed.

Double cage with queen cell

For pregnant females, a spacious cage with a queen cell is required - a removable design for rabbits up to one month. The food part occupies most of the cage. A manhole is installed between the compartment. Such housing is intended for two individuals of different sexes or two females with cubs. It is recommended to install a slatted floor.

A cage for a female rabbit with a queen cell, the dimensions of which are 2.2 × 0.6 × 0.5 m, is made of natural material in compliance with all safety rules. Rabbits need comfort for reproduction, proper growth and development.

Double cages with mesh aviary

To build a structure with a mesh enclosure for walking you need:

• Mesh with large cells (3.5x3.5cm) – 0.6 sq. m.
• Lumber – 0.2 cubic meters. m.
• Metal mesh (1.8×1.8 cm) – 1.3 sq. m.

The aviary is used for non-pregnant rodents, adult rabbits, and babies older than 3 months.

Dimensions of cages for Zolotukhin rabbits

N.I. Zolotukhin’s cells are widely known among rabbit breeders. The distinctive features of the designs are:

• No pallets.
• Wooden or slate flooring.
• Inclined installation of rear walls.
• Near the back wall, a mesh is built into the floor.

The dimensions of the cage with the queen cell, which is also removed, are 0.7 by 1 m. To ensure the safety of the cubs, a board is installed in front of the door. The queen cell is located in a common cage, fenced off from the rest of the space with an additional board. It is possible to place the aft compartments one above the other. On the Internet you can find cages installed in 3 tiers, photos, sizes, drawings of which are also available to rabbit breeders.

There are also Maklyakov cells - modular systems in which the purpose of the cell can be easily changed. The design uses heated drinking bowls and modern systems waste disposal. Infrared heating is used in the aft compartment.

Dimensions of cages for giant rabbits

The “giants” breed of rabbits is common among rabbit breeders who breed rodents for meat and skins. The cage for fattening rabbits of the gray and white giant breeds has dimensions: 0.35 × 0.6 × 0.4 m. If the amount of free space and materials allow, it is recommended to build more spacious housing, dimensions 0.6 × 0.95 × 0, 65 m.

Dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits

The standard dimensions of fattening cages are: 0.5×0.7×0.3 m. Such structures are made from a mesh with square cells, connecting the parts with wire. Install drip or small feeders. During the fattening period, animals should be carefully cared for and monitored.

Cage sizes for California rabbits

Unpretentious in content. Variety - a mixture of, and. The size of the cage for the Californian rabbit is smaller than the enclosures for giant rabbits. The variety is frost-resistant and can be kept without bedding. A dwelling with a feeding section is designed with a size of 0.4 sq. m. m. To keep one rodent, 0.3 square meters is enough. m. The hard hair on the paws allows rodents to be kept on mesh floors. In block structures, it is recommended to exchange animals of the same age category next to each other to simplify care.

Setting up a pit for rabbits is quite simple:

• it is necessary to dig a recess with parameters 2x2x1 m,
• strengthen the walls with slate sheets or concrete;
• put boards or mesh on the floor;
• construct a fence and a canopy on the surface.

It is recommended to monitor rabbits to prevent mating of close relatives, as this worsens the performance of the animals. Availability of water and food is required, as well as regular preventive examinations of rodents.

California rabbits are fed dairy products, fish and meat meal, and nutritional protein supplements. The variety is gaining popularity among rabbit breeders due to its ease of breeding, quality of fur and meat. Female rabbits give birth to 6–8 young rabbits, sometimes in a litter of up to 12 babies.

Optimal cage sizes for rabbits

Standard sizes The size of a rabbit hutch for a household is 1.5 x 0.8 x 0.5 m. It is recommended to install a mesh door and a mesh insert in the floor.

A cage for a decorative rabbit must be at least 0.9 m in length and 0.7 m in width. At the same time, the animal has enough space to move and play. The height of the cage is determined by the “growth” of the animal.

Housing of the same dimensions is arranged for a dwarf rabbit. Be sure to install comfortable drinking bowls and feeders, and add toys to your pet so that he doesn’t get bored.

Dimensions of industrial cages for rabbits

A distinctive feature of industrial structures is the ability to add new elements without changing existing ones. Modular design has dimensions 2x2x1x7m. Uterine sections are also built in. For convenience, springs and manure removal systems are installed on the covers. Lifting lids help with cleaning, feeding, removing babies from cages, inspection and mating.

Thus, when selecting a cage for pets, you should pay attention to the animal’s age, gender, breed, and climatic conditions. When keeping rodents on a farm, it is recommended multi-tiered structures, installed in several rows. You should also remember about equipment - feeders and toys for pets.

Keeping long-eared animals has long been practiced by industrial farms and ordinary people who have decided to organize a small farm on their property. Keeping furry animals is a pleasure, as they do not require constant attention and are quite easy to care for. For the business to be successful, you need to provide the animals with comfortable living conditions. Today we will tell you what rabbit cages you can make with your own hands.

When choosing a place for the future residence of animals and installing their cage houses, you need to pay attention to some parameters of the selected territory.

Cages for eared animals can be placed:

• on the street;
• indoors.

Of course, the first option is suitable only for those farms that are located in the southern regions with a consistently warm and mild climate. Otherwise, in winter time Animals will not survive outside without shelter. If you and your rabbits are planning to live in just such a fertile place, consider the following rules.

1. The level of air humidity that rabbits tolerate well has an upper limit of 75%. They will not be able to physically endure a greater percentage of it; they will begin to waste away and get sick. Based on this, the place to install the cages should be dry, located far from bodies of water, preferably on a hill.
2. There are recommendations regarding sun exposure as well. Eared animals like to bask under them only in cartoons; in life, this will only bring harm and lead to widespread diseases and death of animals. To prevent direct sunlight from hitting the cages, place them in the shade garden trees or organize awnings. If rabbit breeding is your life's work, you can plant a bush fence that will scatter the sun's rays, letting them pass through.

During insulation, pay attention to those cages that are prepared for pregnant rabbits and newborn rabbits.

Requirements for indoor housing for rabbits

Growing, breeding and feeding rabbits

Building a comfortable hutch for rabbits is less than half the battle. It is equally important to properly organize the process of keeping, feeding and breeding rabbits. Read on to find out what features exist in the process of raising rabbits and what are the differences in the methods of keeping them.

Let's start building

Before starting construction work, you need to correctly select the materials that will be used in the process.

Necessary materials

When creating housing for rabbits, it is better to give preference natural materials in order to bring the keeping of animals as close as possible to natural conditions. Therefore, as a basis for the cells, it is necessary to choose high-quality wooden blocks, which are additionally treated with antiseptics.

Additionally, to build cells we will need:

• boards and quality wood;
• thin plywood;
• fine-mesh welded mesh;
• wooden slats, 3-4 centimeters wide;
• metal wire of medium thickness;
• wide plastic trays according to the size of the cells;

Sheath inner surface It is best to use plywood for cage walls, as it is moisture resistant and strong material. Chipboard, for example, is not suitable for such a purpose, since it absorbs moisture and collapses due to swelling.

What types of cages are there for rabbits?

All rabbit hutches are built according to some general principles however, they still have differences. All the nuances of construction depend on what breeds and individuals of the rabbit people will live inside the cages being built. There will be at least several species in your household, and here's why.

As you can see, cells can differ in many ways, depending on the characteristics of future residents. However, for each of them there is general instructions construction, which varies depending on the goals. Let's start looking at it.

Important nuances

Before we announce the instructions themselves, let’s clarify some important points. The standard dimensions of a spacious rabbit hutch are:

• 120-170 centimeters in length;
• about 50 centimeters in height;
• 70-80 centimeters wide.

As a rule, if the cell parameters change, only the length is reduced. The height and width remain standard, since these are the parameters that are most comfortable for care.

Mixing rabbits of different genders in the same cage is prohibited, as this can lead to:

• uncontrolled matings;
• difficult to track pregnancies;
• fights between males for the attention of females;
• fights of females for the attention of males;
• strangling of each other's offspring by warring females.

Instructions for building a rabbit cage yourself

So let's move on to step-by-step instructions building a cage for rabbits. We propose to consider housing for eared animals, consisting of two sections. Adults will live in one of them, and pregnant queens with offspring will live in the second. For a while, until you have a nursing female with cubs, you can put houses for rabbits in the nesting compartment, in which they will hide when they are in a bad mood and want to take a break from their furry roommates.

Let's start building.

Step 1

Take the prepared wooden beams and treat them with antiseptics. This is necessary to prevent the tree from rotting and the penetration of harmful microorganisms into its structure, which can subsequently ruin the health of the eared animals.

Remember, the composition of antiseptics should be as gentle as possible and not contain large amounts of chlorine, which burns wood and destroys its structure. This is important because the cells are used mercilessly and it is necessary that they last a long time.

Step 2

Take wooden beam, prepared ahead of time and cut it so that you get parts with the following parameters:

• 4 beams of 1.5 meters each;
• the same number of bars 55 centimeters each;
• two pairs of bars 70 centimeters each.

Instead of four bars 55 centimeters long, you can make only two and two more 35 centimeters each. The smaller ones will be installed as frame pieces for the back of the cage where we will place the queen nest.

Step 3

Connect the shortest and half-meter beams together to create two identical shapes. If the parameters of the bars for the frame of the front and back of the cage are the same, then you will get a rectangle; if they are different, you will get a trapezoid.

Step 4

Now connect the rectangles together using pieces of wood 70 centimeters long. You should end up with a wooden one frame construction shaped like a large box.

Step 5

Let's start installing the floor. It can be made from several different materials. We present a comparative table of the pros and cons of each of them.

Metallic profile		Fine mesh		Wood slats
+	-	+	-	+	-
long lifespan; ease of care.	you will have to weld the grate yourself; The cells should be small so that the rabbits’ paws do not fall inside.	easy to install; easy to clean.	may tear; service life depends very much on the quality of welding; rabbits can damage their paws.	environmentally friendly material; easy to install.	if handled poorly, rabbits can get a splinter; rots and requires replacement after a short service life.

A good solution would be to use combinations, for example, the first layer can be made from metal profile, welded in the usual way, without small and frequent holes. The second layer is made of fine mesh. The profile will prevent it from deforming and this floor will last a long time.

It is impossible to make a non-mesh floor in the main compartment, since animal feces will pass through the holes and accumulate in the tray under the cage.

Install the selected material on most of the future floor of the cage and secure it with fasteners. Leave 40-50 centimeters blank

Step 6

The remaining unfilled space under the floor must be made of wood and solid, since the rabbit’s nest will be located there. It is best to screw a board to the beams, which must be well sanded so that the animal does not get injured. At the junction of the cells and the board, screw in a metal strip and weld the mesh to it.

Step 7

Let's start covering the walls. The back one is also made from boards polished and impregnated with gentle antiseptics. The front one is made of mesh so that you can observe what your pets are doing. Leave the ceiling unclogged.

Step 8

We line the plank walls from the inside of the cage using plywood. The material must be multi-layered and good quality. The thickness can be any, but you don’t need to take a very thick sheet so as not to make the structure too weighty.

You can fasten plywood using self-tapping screws or nails. The main thing is that the sharp part of the nail does not come out and does not injure you when caring for the cage.

Step 9

We are building a roof. To do this we need a sheet of plywood and hinges, like on doors or cabinets. First, we screw the hinges to one of the upper beams of the frame, then we plant a sheet of good plywood on them. Here it is better to choose a thicker material, because the roof of the house will constantly rise and fall. Make sure it fits snugly. If between the frame and the roof there are large gaps, harmful drafts cannot be avoided.

If it was not possible to fit the lid to the frame tightly, do not despair. Take some felt or padding polyester and cover the perimeter of the roof. This can be done even if there are no cracks, since in winter such insulation will be useful for long-eared ones.

Step 10

At the junction of the wire mesh and the boards, install a board that goes from floor to ceiling and from wall to wall. Make a medium-sized hole in advance so that the rabbits can move freely from one cage to another.

Step 11

Place the cages on supports that have been previously installed in the rabbitry. Now, mount the tray from the bottom of the cage. It can only match the size of the mesh part of the floor, since the feces of the rabbit and baby rabbits will not leak through the wooden floors.

Step 12

Now install feeders and drinkers inside the cages. You can also make them yourself from wood, in the form of small troughs. Be sure to find a place for hay as well. Some rabbit breeders place it in homemade suspended structures so that rabbits can reach it and at the same time not trample it, turning it into bedding.

Now that you have learned how to make the simplest version of rabbit cages, let's turn our attention to other popular options.

Family cage

The family home for long-eared animals no longer consists of two, but of three sections. A breeding male with good breeding properties settles there. quality characteristics health and appearance. Females live in the side compartments, and males live in the middle compartment. Between the rooms there are manholes, this time with valves. This is necessary so that at the moment one of the females is ready to conceive offspring, release her to the inseminator, and then do the same with the other rabbit.

This option for constructing cages is considered very effective for breeding purebred animals, as it allows you to sort out suitable individuals in advance and track upcoming pregnancies.

Construction Features

Let's name some points in building cells from three sections that will help you during construction.

Cages for rabbits in two tiers

The construction of a two-tier rabbit hutch structure is not too different from a single-tier one. Such a structure will have the following parameters:

• height 2 - 2.5 meters;
• width 1.4 meters;
• Along the edges of the structure, every 10 centimeters are allocated for the installation of feeders.

The dimensions may vary depending on your idea, but making the cage smaller is not rational.

Construction instructions

So, let's start building a two-tier cage.

Photo	Step
	Step 1. Exactly the same as in the first instructions, we connect the bars to make four frame frames. Each of them will serve as the lower and top part for two cells. We also saw off eight bars of equal height for the corner parts of the cell “skeleton”.
	Step 2. Making floors for cages. The larger part, as in the case of a single-tier structure, will be mesh, the smaller part will be solid, made of boards. We leave a small distance of about 10 centimeters at the back wall, where we will place a drain for animal waste. This distance should be covered with a dense mesh with cells larger than the main one for the floor.
	Step 3. The back wall is made of boards, then lined with plywood on the inside. The side and front walls are also equipped with mesh with medium-sized cells.
	Step 4. Using slats and metal plugs, we separate the inside of the house for the eared compartments, leaving space between them for a shaped hay box English letter"V".
	Step 5. We attach metal sheets to the waste disposal compartment that go to the tray under the cage. Each cage has its own collection of excrement and is installed so that it can be pulled out and cleaned. For the upper tier it is placed on the ceiling of the lower one, and for the lower one - on special corners of the stand, mounted in the holding frame for the cages.
	Step 6. We equip the roofs for each of the tiers from plywood, reinforced with felt or thick linoleum.

To make it possible to care for caged animals, make the back wall or roof hinged.

Video - Cage for rabbits, self-building

Cell according to the Mikhailov method

Today there are many popular methods of breeding eared animals. One of the most effective is Mikhailov’s mini-farm. The features of the mini-farm are as follows. It allows you to obtain a large number of healthy offspring and raise them into productive, mature individuals with minimal attention from the farmer.

The design features of Mikhailov’s mini-farm make it possible to achieve the following positive effects.

Cell cleansing occurs without human intervention. And we are talking not only about animal feces, but also about food waste containing harmful fumes. Rabbits do not inhale them and remain healthy. Due to the fact that inside the rabbit houses such a high level hygiene, infection-carrying insects do not fly inside, since they simply have nothing to profit from.

Adding food and adding water to the feeders occurs once a week. Yes, now you are freed from the need to constantly monitor the presence of these batteries in the cage of your charges every day. The fact is that the feeders constantly fill themselves as they eat food from the feeders. Another plus is that in winter the water in the drinking bowls is automatically heated.

Areas for pregnant and newborn rabbits with their offspring are also heated in cold weather, which allows animals to crossbreed all year round and ensure the health of newborns.

The internal structure of the cell is as close as possible to natural conditions, which provokes the activation of instincts in animals. Thus, the queen cell reminds an animal of a hole, since it is located below the main level of the cell, and the entrance to it actually imitates a rabbit hole. The ceiling in the nesting compartment is slanted, as if this really is not a cage, but a long-eared dugout.

Open areas of the wall alternate with closed ones so that rabbits can get privacy and take a break from attention from humans or other animals.

Mikhailov's cage is also equipped with folding doors, which allow you to pick up a baby rabbit unnoticed by the rabbits or, on the contrary, add them. This is necessary when a litter is too small or too large for one individual. If there are too many cubs, the mother may kill or eat several alive. In this case, it is necessary to remove the baby and transfer it to the queen who gave birth to the small offspring.

The part of the cage that is installed to the north is insulated. The south side, on the contrary, is equipped with ventilation so that fresh air enters the houses. The roof is equipped with a pipe through which gases from animal excrement are emitted. Feeders and drinking bowls are sealed to prevent waste from getting into them.

Design Review

The area of ​​each cell is 1.4 m2. Up to 25 heads fit inside. The main element of the structure is a shed - a barn consisting of several tiers of rabbit cages in one or two tiers. Such a shad can contain 70 houses. If we take this number as a basis, then queens will live in 35 of them, and adult males and young rabbits will live in the rest.

It is customary to make about two rows of cells, together occupying 8.5 m2. These cells have only one roof.

Implemented Mikhailov cage

The shelf life of Mikhailov's mini-farm is about 20 years. Then it will have to be renewed or completely replaced with a new design.

Necessary materials

We warn you that if you do not have sufficient experience in construction, it is easier to purchase a Mikhailov cage. But if you are confident that you can handle it, stock up on the following materials:

• sheets of plywood;
• paint;
• nails;
• roofing iron;
• wooden beam;
• boards;
• roofing felt;
• Fiberboard soft and hard;
• picket fence

Assembling the stand

Assemble the stand by carefully examining its image in the photo. The horizontal section of the stand will contain a support part for a homemade transformer compartment, as well as shelves for tools and a bench. This is where they make a hole rectangular shape, leading from a sealed tank to a bunker for collecting excrement, which flows into it along the shaft walls. The shaft is covered with fiberboard and roofing felt, resistant to frost and moisture.

Walking area and nests

Two pairs of posts are mounted on the stand, the cross-section of which should not exceed 10 centimeters. The tier below will rest on them, consisting of several compartments in which rabbits are caught for inspection or are deposited.

The walking area is equipped with a drinking bowl and feeding trough. In its lower part there is a hole measuring 20 by 20 centimeters, which goes into the shaft. The floor is laid with a picket fence laid on slats, which are covered with strips of metal to protect against rodents. The flooring is made at an angle of 45 degrees.

The nesting compartment is equipped with a hinged door that folds open to create a free area for interacting with the rabbits. The location of the bottom of the queen cell goes down relative to the level of the main floor by 9 centimeters. The outside walls of the house for mothers and babies are insulated with any available materials. The entrance to the compartment is also insulated. To arbitrarily overlap it, install a view.

Drinkers and feeders

The drinking bowl is presented automatic construction. The water trough itself can be anything, be it a plastic bowl or a wooden one. This bowl contains outlets from several 5-liter canisters. Centimeter holes are drilled in each lid of the canister so that the water drains down gradually and only when the rabbit has drunk enough so that the trough does not overfill.

What size the area of ​​the drinking compartment will be directly depends on the capacity and size of the canister itself, as well as the trough. The door to the compartment is made of a sheet of plywood and metal. One edge of the watering trough must be hidden from rabbits in order to install a small electric boiler there, which automatically starts working when the air temperature drops below +8°C.

A feeder is installed next to the drinking bowl, into which mixed feed in granules is poured. It is installed in a small gap between the parts of the flooring, in which the disposal device is located. It contains waste - crumbs and flour, as well as pellets trampled by rabbits. And from there they roll into the recycling bin.

The feed bowl for roughage is located at the top and bottom of the farm. WITH outside the cages are hung from a tank in which hay and vegetables are placed.

Installation of the upper tier

The upper tier can serve as a mother and jigging level. In the first case, it is made at an angle, in the same way as described above. In the second they are divided into two sections different sizes, into which small rabbits will then be placed.

The length of the upper tier is 25 centimeters longer than the lower one. A drinker and a feeder are also installed in each section according to the methods described above.

Roof

The roof is made sloping, and a pipe is installed on top of it to ventilate the premises. This pipe is necessary to remove from the cell accumulations of harmful fumes that are released during the life of eared animals.

Bottom part

At the bottom of the cage there is a box into which rabbit droppings are poured. This allows animal excrement to be used for gardening purposes and eliminates the need for the farmer to constantly clean the cages of feces.

The Mikhailov cage is an effective option for rabbit breeding business. This design requires minimal labor and time from the farmer. So, it takes about half an hour a week to care for the animals - to fill the feeders, drinkers and clean the trays. Long-eared animals kept in such a farm gain in three months of their life such weight that rabbits in normal care can only gain in 6-8 months.

Cages for rabbits Zolotukhina

Another famous farm concept for efficient rabbit breeding. Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin studied the life of rabbits in natural conditions from an early age and in the prime of his career, he developed this amazing structure, which increases the efficiency of raising rabbits by activating their natural instincts.

The Zolotuha cage farm has three tiers and is quite simply made. Let's start looking at the instructions for making it.

To build a cell, we need:

• wooden beams;
• boards;
• metal grid;
• sheet iron;
• high-quality polycarbonate;
• slate.

Construction instructions

So, first of all, let’s determine the dimensions of the future cell:

• the width of the rabbit's home is 2 meters;
• height of the structure – 1.5;
• the depth of the structure is no more than 80 centimeters;
• rear floor slope - 5 centimeters;
• the mesh at the back wall occupies 20 centimeters;
• the doors are made in the shape of a square with 40 centimeters in length on one side.

Let's start building.

Photo	Step
	Step 1. Cell scaffolds are assembled using a method already familiar to you. Each of them is divided into two equal halves, between which there is a small distance to accommodate the hay barn.
	Step 2. This time, for the floor, not mesh is used, but durable slate. When laying and attaching slate sheets to the frame, calculate that you need to retreat 20 centimeters from the back wall. This space is covered welded mesh, through which the feces of eared animals will be discharged.
	Step 3. Now let's start making the walls. The back walls are made of carbonate sheets at a specific angle. The upper part of each wall is mounted to the end of the slate floor of the next highest tier. At the very top tier it is straight. Thanks to this design, rabbit droppings roll along the walls of each of the tiers and eventually fall into the tray.
	Step 4. We make a door for the queen cells and feed compartments. In the first case, we prepare it from wood and insulate it to create necessary conditions for baby rabbits. In the second, we make it from mesh.
	Step 5. Nests for summer maintenance are also made with mesh walls. They are separated from the remaining space by a board partition, which can then be removed to create a spacious cage for young animals. Winter queen cells are wooden, with closed walls. The entrance to it is also wooden, with a closing hole, the lower part of which is in contact with the floor. Hay is spread on the floor.
	Step 6. We make feeders. These devices are a tray that occupies most of the wall of the cage located in front. The feeder is inserted into the cage only one third, its bottom is made at an angle. This is necessary so that the feeder can be filled from the outside without opening the cage. A drinking bowl is also installed inside.

Zolotukhin cells are famous and have been successful for many decades. Their simple production makes them popular, and their rabbit-breeding effect is amazing.

Cages for dwarf rabbits: step-by-step instructions

Not only farmers, but also those who have chosen this cute animal as their pet can make a cage for a rabbit. Of course, it is easier to buy such a structure, but it costs a lot of money, which can instead be spent on buying vitamins and food for the eared ones.

Making a house for a rabbit with your own hands will take very little time and will not require serious labor costs.

Step 1. Assemble the frame for the cage according to the mechanism described above. This time the frame parameters will be as follows:

• length – 1 meter;
• the height of the bars for the rear wall is 55 centimeters;
• the height of the bars for the side walls is 70 centimeters;
• frame width – 70 centimeters.

Step 2. Assemble the frame so that there is a distance of 15 centimeters between the lower end of the back wall and the future floor.

Step 3. Nail wide ones to the bottom of the cage wooden slats or install a welded mesh from a metal profile. This support is needed to give rigidity to the future mesh floor. When the slats or profile are installed, install fine mesh on top.

Step 4. Make walls for the cage. The back one can be made of plywood or boards, and the rest can be made of metal mesh with medium-sized cells. Make one of the walls also plywood or wood and cut a hole in it for the door.

Step 5. Make the door from wooden frame and metal mesh and place it on the loops to the hole.

Let's sum it up

Now you know many of the most popular ways to build rabbit cages. The choice of the option that suits you will be based on the following nuances:

• starting budget;
• rabbit breeding experience;
• region of residence;
• size of livestock, etc.

The main requirement is high quality designs

For example, cages using the Mikhailov mini-farm method will help to minimize labor costs and loss of time for caring for animals, however, it is very difficult to place this serious structure inside a barn, which makes the use of the structure in regions with long cold winters almost impossible. In addition, the equipment of such a cage requires money and construction experience. Beginning rabbit breeders will not benefit from spending so much money, especially if they are not sure that they will want to keep rabbits for many years.

Zolotukhin's cages do not require large financial expenditures, but they imply that the number of rabbits contained in them will not be small. Therefore, this option is not entirely rational for farmers starting out in the rabbit business.