Many people, regardless of age, want to take care of someone. But if with adults everything is already clear, then for children care is most often expressed in the desire to have pet. Traditionally, kids ask for cats or dogs, but not all parents agree to this.

An excellent option for a pet would be a decorative rabbit, whose cuteness and ease of care can captivate you at once. And in order to significantly save on purchasing everything necessary for keeping an animal at home, we bring to your attention detailed instructions How to create a rabbit cage with your own hands.

General requirements for cages for decorative rabbits

It doesn’t matter whether you buy a ready-made cage in a store or are going to show your talents as a jack-of-all-trades and assemble a home for your rabbit with your own hands. In any case, you should be aware of the requirements that are put forward in both cases.

So, the requirements for rabbit houses come down to the following list:

1. One of the main rules is that the floor in the cage should not be lattice. Decorative rabbits do not have pads on their paws, so the pets will easily fall through the bars and end up in the lower tray, which serves as a toilet. To ensure comfort with a slatted floor, you will need to lay down a rug or lay down boards to make it comfortable for your rabbit to move around the cage. But it is better to immediately choose a cage with the correct gender.
2. When creating or purchasing a cage, you need to pay attention to the material from which it is made. An important parameter The cage is its strength, because rabbits chew on everything and can easily bite through plastic twigs.
3. All surfaces in a rabbit's home must be environmentally friendly. So, it is unacceptable to cover the cage with varnish or paint, because these are chemicals that can cause poisoning in pets who love to chew something.
4. Be sure to use a floor mat to prevent the development inflammatory processes on the hind legs of rabbits, which are more sensitive to hard surfaces. The following can be used as a floor softener: sawdust or shavings, torn into small pieces of paper or a rug. If you use sawdust, the cage must be equipped with thresholds along the side walls to prevent the substrate from spilling out.

Important!Newspapers cannot be used as bedding, since lead is added to the ink, which is a toxic substance, and even a small dose of this chemical element is enough to lead to irreparable consequences. It is also not recommended to use carpet for bedding, which also contains harmful substances.

What is better to make it from?

Let us dwell in more detail on those materials that are preferable to use when creating a cage with your own hands, and consider their positive and possible negative aspects.

Floor

A sheet of regular plywood or particle board. If you want to make your pet’s home as environmentally friendly as possible, then you should use a solid board (not glued, since the adhesive material is often toxic).

Metal mesh or rods, as already mentioned, cannot be used as flooring - your pet simply will not be able to move on them. It is recommended to pour a layer on top of the wooden floor sawdust, which will become an excellent natural and environmentally friendly substrate for bedding.

So, we can highlight several options for building materials that are suitable for the floor covering of the cage: wooden board, plywood, chipboard or OSB, plexiglass, plastic.

A solid wooden board has a number of advantages over other materials, namely:

• strength and wear resistance;
• environmental Safety;
• non-slip coating;
• pleasant appearance (which is important when the cage will be in your home).

The disadvantages of the board include::

• need for additional machining to remove nicks, burrs and other irregularities;
• in the absence of varnishing (and this cannot be done to ensure the safety of rabbits), the tree will still be traumatic, because driving a splinter onto such a floor is as easy as shelling pears.

Otherwise, a solid wooden board will be fine natural material for the floor in the cage.

Did you know? Decorative rabbits are not as simple as they seem. The speed of tooth growth in these pets can amaze anyone - in a year the front incisors grow by 10 cm (and sometimes even more). Therefore, rabbits constantly need solid food and special sharpening toys that help them maintain their teeth. in good condition and normal size.

Chipboard or OSB will be alternative materials for flooring. They have about the same positive sides, in addition to environmental safety, because these building materials contain chemical adhesives, which pushes chipboard and OSB to second place.

Plexiglas is also very interesting and comparatively inexpensive material. But its slippery coating will not fit well with the paws of furry animals, and therefore it is better not to use such material for the floor of the cage. It may be suitable for walls or ceilings, but not for floors.

Plastic has excellent characteristics in use, but it cannot be classified as an environmentally friendly material, since it is all a product of chemical processing. Although plastic has no equal in care - it is very easy to clean, and you won’t have to remove burrs from the rabbits’ delicate paws.

Walls

If we talk about the material that is best suited for walls, then optimal solution will become wooden blocks. They will serve as a good, strong and reliable frame. And from the inside they can be closed with a metal mesh, which is sold in construction stores. Such a mesh will perform a restraining function so that the pet cannot roam freely around the apartment, and will also provide ventilation, which is also very important for small fur-bearing animals.

Another option for walls would be plexiglass, which we talked about earlier, but you will have to drill a lot of holes in it. ventilation holes, and this will add extra work. Therefore, in choosing the optimal, safe and durable material for walls, we recommend environmentally friendly solid wooden beams to which a metal mesh is attached.

How to make a cage with your own hands

Now we will understand all the intricacies of assembling a cage for decorative rabbits with our own hands.

Dimensions

The first thing you should start with is to understand for yourself what size cage you would like to make, because you don’t have to limit yourself to a miniature space where your pet will be cramped and uninterested. A house for your pet should meet all the needs of these small but agile balls of fur. Standard sizes are at least 1 m in length and about 45–60 cm in width. But in such dimensions it will be a bit cramped for the rabbit, and therefore, he will have to leave his cage for 3-4 hours every day to walk around the apartment and warm up.
In any case, be guided by the sizes that you agree to allocate for your pet, as well as your own imagination. The house does not have to be large in terms of floor space. It can be vertical and consist of several “floors” for the rabbit’s entertainment and movement.

Tools and materials

For successful installation you need to prepare cages for a decorative rabbit at home necessary materials and tools. So, the necessary tools include:

• hammer;
• nails;
• saw;
• self-tapping screws;
• scissors for cutting metal.

And from building materials you should prepare:

• sheets of plywood, chipboard or other material of your choice;
• wooden blocks;
• metal mesh;
• door hinges;
• soft floor covering.

Step-by-step instruction

The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit includes 8 main stages:

1. The first step is to create a drawing according to which you will assemble the cell. You can also use a ready-made drawing.
2. Now you should work on the floor, on the basis of which the entire house will be built. To make the floor, take a sheet of plywood, OSB or chipboard (or boards to size) and cut a rectangle of the desired size from it. The main requirement for the floor is strength and stability, so that it can withstand the weight of the animal and does not cause your pet to fall and hurt itself.
3. The next step is to equip the floor with a sheet of tin, which will make cleaning the cage much more convenient. Cut a sheet of tin 0.2 mm thick to the size of the floor.
4. Next, proceed to assembling and installing the walls of the house. Three of them can be made blind from the same material that was chosen for the floor. It is impossible to make all four walls blank, since the house must have lighting and ventilation.
5. Assemble the front wall from wooden slats with a section of 2x2 or 1.5x1.5 cm. Insert a metal mesh between the bars. You can make it yourself from wire. At the bottom of such a wall, provide a side made of cardboard or the material from which the floor is made. The edge will prevent the floor substrate from spilling out.
6. Connect the walls to each other, then attach the entire structure to the floor using self-tapping screws.

Important!Select the correct length of screws according to the thickness of the selected wood. Self-tapping screws should not protrude beyond the wood so as not to injure the animal. If you make a mistake with the length of the screw, use a file to grind off the sharp edge.

7. The front or side wall must have an opening door. It is assembled from wooden blocks, the space between which is filled with the same metal mesh. Such a door is hung on metal hinges using self-tapping screws.
8. To organize the second tier, you should attach a sheet of plywood to the walls with self-tapping screws of such a size that it is 15–20 cm shorter than one of the sides. This is necessary so that the rabbit can freely move from tier to tier. There should be a ladder leading there, which can also be easily made from slats and flooring material: at intervals of 5 cm, use a hammer to hammer wooden slats onto a rectangle of plywood, chipboard or other material.

How to arrange the inside of a rabbit cage

But you cannot provide your pet with proper comfort with a cage alone. He still needs to be provided with various attributes: a drinking bowl, a feeding trough and a secluded place where he can hide or sleep. Having a secluded place is very important for a pet, especially in the first months of his life in a new place, because he will need to get used to the new place and new unfamiliar creatures next to him.

As for the feeder and drinker, they must be made of heavy material. Another option would be to secure the dishes to the floor. Such precautions are necessary because rabbits are very playful and active creatures, and therefore can knock over or throw objects during play.
It is best to use wood shavings or sawdust as a floor substrate. On top of the main floor you should lay any dense material(tin, cardboard, rug, etc.). This will allow you to clean up after your long-eared cat in a more convenient manner.

Did you know?When the time comes for the female rabbit to lamb, she begins to build a nest for her babies. Don't be surprised if your little animal is actively tearing out its fur in the chest or belly area. This is how maternal instinct manifests itself- the female lines the nest with her down to make the babies warm and cozy.

Of course, you shouldn’t forget about. These can be either purchased or homemade items. For example, you can buy a ball woven from branches or straw, which will not only be a good toy to chase, toss or roll on the floor, but also an excellent teeth sharpener. You can weave a toy with your own hands if you have the time and desire.

Additional equipment of the cage with a kind of nest made of a cardboard box will be needed if you are breeding rabbits. The box should be slightly large sizes than the rabbit herself.

How to disinfect rabbit cages at home

The issue of disinfection is one of the most important, because your pet must live in clean and safe conditions. Therefore, the procedure for disinfection and general cleaning in a rabbit cage should become routine for you.

Before carrying out the disinfection itself, you should pay attention to the general cleanliness of the house. You need to clean the long-eared cage from accumulated droppings, dirt, dust, bedding residues or other debris. All surfaces in the cage must be perfectly cleaned before the disinfection procedure.

To execute general cleaning in the rabbit's home, you will need some auxiliary equipment:

• brush (an old toothbrush will do);
• broom;
• spatula or scraper for cleaning waste;
• a bucket, box or other container for collecting garbage;
• tank for spraying the substance;
• the drug itself.

Among the most popular and effective are:

• "Glutex";
• 5% iodine solution in alcohol;
• "Virkon";
• "Ecocide S".

But those tested by many breeders will be no less effective. traditional methods, which include:

• burnt lime treatment;
• burning by fire;
• hot lye cleaning;
• washing with a “Whiteness” solution.

The issue of cohabitation between a person and a rabbit is solved very simply by equipping a special cage for the pet. In order not to spend a lot of money on a house from the store, you can easily equip yourself an equally good home for a rabbit, taking into account the tips given in this article. By using step by step instructions By creating a cage for decorative rabbits at home, you can quickly and easily create a completely comfortable house for your pet.

Video: DIY 2-story rabbit cage. Step-by-step instruction

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Rabbits grow quickly and produce offspring, besides, their meat and skin are very are valued consumers.

If we add to this unpretentiousness animals, then it becomes clear: their breeding in household may be enough profitable business.

But you can’t place lop-eared pets on the street - they’ll run away and you’ll have to make some houses.

And to create for rabbits optimal conditions For development, cells must be comfortable and adaptable to different situations.

Types of cells

Eat some types of rabbit cells. They differ in design and purpose.

Currently, the industry produces cells of all types; many options can be made with your own hands from improvised means.

1. Single cell cage- an ordinary box with doors in which one rabbit is placed, or a large compartment where young animals are placed for walking.
2. Two-section cages separated by a V-shaped mesh feeder, you can keep two adult rabbits in them and open a hole between the compartments if mating is necessary.
3. Three-section cells designed for three adult individuals: a male lives in the middle, a female at the edges, and a system of closing doors between the cells. You need to let the rabbit go to the rabbit - they opened it, they enjoyed life - they closed it, and the animals are always together.
4. IN cages similar to the Klenov-Chegodaeva state farm contain two adults. This is a version of a two-section cage for keeping rabbits outside. Length – 240 cm, width – 65. The walls of the maternity ward and the back of the nursery have a height of 45 cm, the front – 65. To clean the cage and put feeders and drinkers in it, the roof of the nursery is raised.
5. Cells of the Mikhailov mini-farm design equipped with automatic feeders and drinkers, as well as a semi-automatic waste collection system. Such cages need to be cleaned no more than once a week. But their design is too complex for homemade. It's easier to buy a ready-made option.
6. Zolotukhin cell project- This is a space-saving, easy-to-clean and very pet-friendly option. Unlike most models with bars that are inconvenient for animals to move around, it has a slightly sloping wooden floor, and the grid is placed only at the back wall. The cage is washed with water and all waste flows through the grate. To save space, Zolotukhin proposed placing cages one above the other in several tiers, with feeders and drinkers located on one door common to the vertical. The back wall is slightly inclined so that when cleaning, waste does not flow onto the rabbits from the lower tiers.
7. IN Maklyak-6 system It is proposed to make two-section cages, place floors according to the Zolotukhin method, but between the departments, so that waste does not reach the rabbits from the lower floors, pyramidal outlets are used, which taper to the mesh of the lower box. The floors are inserted into special grooves and can be easily removed if dismantling is necessary. The doors are double-leaf, located on the front wall; feeders and drinking bowls are attached to them.

For a review of the mini-farm for rabbits Maklyak-6, see in the video:

Not always needed for rabbits solid dwellings:

• If rabbits are kept in room, then it is not necessary to make the walls from wood, because the cage is already protected from bad weather conditions; you can make it entirely from wire;
• Decorative Rabbits in the house can be kept in a comfortable rodent cage purchased at a pet store, the main thing is that it is spacious enough. Ferplast cells have proven themselves well;
• Californian Rabbits are smaller in size; for them you can choose a cage with an area of ​​0.5 m².

If you want to make a cage on one's own, then you can take any option as a basis.
Required elements rabbitry designs:

• supports for walls made of wood or metal;
• side walls made of plywood, wood or mesh (the latter option is only suitable for keeping cages indoors);
• front wall (made of mesh or slats) with door;
• canopy or roof, which will protect rabbits from unpleasant weather conditions, with a small slope;
• And feeders.

Note! According to veterinary standards, one rabbit requires space 0.72 m², but for giant breeds this may not be enough and larger premises should be provided.

Materials and tools

To make a rabbit cage you will be needed the following tools:

• hammer;
• scissors for metal;
• screwdrivers or screwdriver;
• Bulgarian;
• square, roulette and level;
• saw or jigsaw;
• pen or pencil for marking;

Can use materials remaining after repair and construction work, or purchase new ones. You will need:

• corner, profile or wooden beam - for the frame;
• galvanized or sheet iron, slate - for walls;
• roofing elements: sheets of slate, or iron, tiles. As an economical option, you can cover the cage with linoleum;
• net with cells 15 mm for the floor and front wall;
• mesh with cells 35–40 mm for the feeder;
• sheets galvanized sheet for making an external feeder;
• self-tapping screws;
• loops.

Drawing up a drawing

Before you start cutting materials, you should work on drawing with dimensions.

In the picture it is necessary to provide places where sections, feeders, drinkers and doors will be installed.

Square, required for one female rabbit with offspring, - 1.2 x 0.65 m. Optimal height the front wall is at least 0.75 m, the rear wall is at least 0.5 m.

Costs take account following:

• Outdoor cages for rabbits should lift up above the ground by 0.8 meters. This will be a reliable barrier for rats and snakes and will make cleaning the cage easier;
• To make efficient use of space, it is better to place cells in several tiers;
• Rabbits don't like drafts, therefore, outdoor cages must be made with solid back and side walls;
• In cages where female rabbits with rabbits will be kept, it is necessary to provide nest in the side part there is a separate small completely darkened closed room, which will replace the hole, the size 0.65 x 0.55 m, with closing doors. In the street cages on winter time it is necessary insulate;
• The nest must have manhole in the light part, raised 0.1 m above the floor, this will prevent the rabbits from falling out;
• External It is better to make the door covering the light compartment mesh and attach a feeder and drinking bowl to it;
• Can be equipped walking area, making a door behind the light compartment leading to a fenced area of ​​the yard.

Assembly order

When all necessary for the manufacture of the cage is available, you can start to the assembly of the structure:

• First of all we do the front and back frames, after which we combine them together, securing the ceiling and floor lintels;
• Before fixing the frames, you need to use a level and square to make sure that all corners;
• Then we install the frames for doors and feeders;
• The next stage is installation floor, which is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws;
• Installing rear and side walls;
• Strengthening external wooden walls metal sheet or mesh;
• We assemble the nesting compartment from wood and install it in the cage;
• Install roof tiers;
• First, the cells of the lower tiers, then the second and third;
• When all the main compartments are assembled, you need to attach the doors, feeders and drinking bowls.

Important! Regardless of what material you use for the cage - new or previously used, make sure that there are no nicks or other dangers for rabbits.

Basic rules for caring for rabbits

So that your pets are healthy and happy, it is necessary observe the following rules:

• Rabbit cages should be sufficient spacious, otherwise the animals will begin to get fat, which can lead to a decrease in offspring and even a complete refusal to mate;
• Rabbits more willingly mate if you transfer the female to the rabbit, and not vice versa;
• It is best to carry out mating in such a way that the rabbits are not born during periods extreme temperatures (too cold or hot);
• Pretty rabbits smart Animals don't like iron or plastic. If they start gnaw cage, which means they need something lacks: feed, wood for grinding teeth or mineral salts. Please note what is missing from this list in cells.

The cage needs to be periodically disinfect. Processing is required in the following cases:

• before transfer rabbits;
• before births;
• when diseases.

For disinfection, special veterinary drugs:

• Virosan(100 ml);
• Creolin phenolic-free coal tar;
• PVP iodine spray;
• Ecocide S(Ecocid S);
• Bleaching powder in the form of a 10% solution;
• Ash liquor(add 1/3 of wood ash to water and boil for 20–30 minutes).

Before disinfection rabbits removed from the cage. All surfaces are carefully are cleared using water and a scraper, then are being processed disinfectant.

Attention! When working with disinfectants, precautions must be taken. After finishing the treatment, the room must be ventilated and hands washed with soap.

Another way is disinfection using blowtorch. In this case, fire is treated wooden surfaces until they turn brown. Influenced high temperature kills all microbes. Removable metal, plastic and ceramic parts are best boil.

For step-by-step construction of a rabbit cage with dimensions, see the following video:

Experienced farmers know that creating optimal conditions for animals is one of the most important factors influencing their health and proper development. It is not necessary to purchase ready-made cages for rabbits; you can make them yourself. In this case, first you need to figure out what type of structure is most suitable for rabbits, what drawings with dimensions to use, what will be required in the work.

Sizes for animals of different ages

Before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, you need to choose a simple design diagram. There are many ready-made solutions, but often they do not fit the size parameters. In this case, all dimensions are increased to the required value or a new layout is prepared.

They mainly use wood and mesh - it's inexpensive, but practical option for arranging a rodent's home

Beginning livestock breeders should keep in mind that one house will not be enough to breed animals. Even if you increase the size of the enclosure, this is not the best for rabbits. suitable option. In this case, a minimum of 3 separate sections are required:

• for adult animals;
• young animals;
• rabbits with offspring;
• large breeds.

Grown-up and adult individuals

The dimensions of the enclosure for adult or grown-up rabbits must meet the following parameters:

• length - 2.1-2.4 m;
• width - 0.6-0.7 m;
• height - 0.5-0.7 m.

But here this area also needs to be divided into 2 separate sections, between which you need to place a feeder with hay and grass. Many rabbit breeders, in order to save space, make rooms in two tiers, doubling the height due to the reduced length.

Baby rabbits

As a rule, young animals are kept in groups. But despite this, rabbits need small enclosures. The area for one animal should be only 0.3 m2. Approximate dimensions:

• length - 250 cm;
• width - 100 cm;
• height - 40-50 cm.

In rare cases, separate houses are not made for rabbits and they are kept in standard sections. But here you will need to initially calculate the area based on the number of young animals.

Rabbit with young animals

Before you build a house for a rabbit with offspring, you should draw a diagram dividing the total area into two sections. This will be the feeding section and the uterine section. Also, the design should include a manhole located slightly above the floor, approximately 150 mm. The female rabbit will be able to easily step over the elevated threshold, but this eliminates the possibility of the baby rabbits falling out of the nest.

The size of the livestock house corresponds to the following parameters:

• depth - 800 mm;
• width - 1200 mm;
• height - 600 mm.

These are the parameters of the uterine section; it is located in the house before the birth.

• length - 400 mm;
• width - 400 mm;
• height - 200 mm.

Giant breeds

The size of the enclosure for domestic giant rabbits depends entirely on the breed of the animal and the intensity of its growth. In houses of standard dimensions, such individuals will be very cramped; larger enclosures will be required here. The minimum dimensional parameters for which you need to make a cage for rabbits are 0.75x0.55x1.7 m.

To prevent your home-made rodent enclosure from collapsing in the first month of use, you should take into account some recommendations from experts:

1. Rabbits are rodents, eager to taste everything that comes into their field of vision. Therefore, if you plan to make your own cages from wood, you need to protect the material by covering all protruding parts metal sheets. This does not require large investments and time, but the enclosure will last for many years.
2. It is not recommended to treat sections with antiseptics, varnishes, impregnations and other chemical protection. The fact is that animals do not tolerate chemical fumes well and can become poisoned.
3. A moisture-resistant coating should be used for the roof. If the animal cage you make will be located on the street, the most the best option Traditional slate will serve.

IN street structures the roof is made of wood, ondulin or slate - the metal heats up quickly, and animals can die in the summer

1. For the frame you need to use wooden blocks with a section of 5x5 cm or metal profiles. The cladding material is a regular chain-link mesh with 2.5 x 2.5 cm cells. The back part must be made blind, since drafts are dangerous for rabbits.
2. To make the floor, a mesh of 2.5x2.5 cm or 1x2.5 cm is used. These cell sizes make it possible not to hold waste inside the house and drain it into a special tank.

A cast floor for an enclosure is not only inconvenient, but also unhygienic. The fact is that rabbits have very pungent urine with a concentrated odor, and this will lead to rapid rotting of the material and create unpleasant aroma. If the rabbit breeder wants to make the enclosure more environmentally friendly, then instead of a mesh on the floor, you can lay a lattice of wood blocks in increments of 5-10 mm.

The floor can be covered with plywood to prevent pododermatitis in pets, but it will have to be dried regularly. It is convenient when there are 2-3 such sheets, while one is in the cage, the others are drying.

Making rabbit cages with your own hands

Drawings of a rabbit cage can be found on the Internet, and you can also make it yourself, taking into account the necessary parameters or focusing on the standard ones - 1.5x0.7x0.7 m. But the scheme, as experienced rabbit breeders do, often involves building paired houses. This way you can significantly save on material. In this case, the frame will have the following parameters: 3x0.7x1.2 m with a rear height of 100 cm.

Simple design

Before building a rabbit cage with your own hands, prepare the tools and the following materials:

• plywood sheet - 1.5x1.5 m with a thickness of 1 cm;
• wooden beams 3 m with a section 30x50 - 10 units;
• screws for 3 cm and 7 cm - 2 kg;
• mesh netting with cell parameters 1.5 cm - 3 m.

The work order is as follows:

1. From wooden beams, assemble a strong frame with dimensions of 3x0.7x1.2 m and a rear wall height of 1 m. The result will be supports for a slanted roof and a raised floor from the bottom. A mesh is attached as a floor covering. In the queen cell, the lower part will be monolithic.

1. Cut from plywood sheet part with the required dimensions for the back wall and attach it with self-tapping screws. Also install a piece on the side where you plan to place the queen cell.

1. Decide on the location of the queen cell and, after making the markings correctly, install a vertical wooden beam and fix the wall with the hole and logs on it for subsequent installation of the lid.
2. Next, after partially making the rabbit enclosure with your own hands, you need to build a feeder. It is mounted in the middle of the enclosure on a pre-installed vertical beam. A hay section is installed near this feed container; it is made of steel wire stretched over a square wooden frame.

1. A frame for installing doors 30x50 cm is mounted on the front part. The roofing covering is laid on top with an allowance of 5 cm in front and 10 on the other sides.

It should be noted that the doors of the aft compartment should consist of mesh, but for the uterine compartment, 70% should be made of wood, and a small part should be covered with chain-link to allow light to enter.

VIDEO: detailed instructions for the construction of houses

Making cages for little rabbits

Babies who have already been weaned from their mother are kept, as a rule, in one big house 15-20 individuals each. The size is chosen based on the minimum area per animal - 0.3 sq.m. In total, for 20 kids you should get a cage measuring 3x2 meters with a ceiling height of 0.6 meters. The back wall is covered with plywood to prevent drafts. The floor is made of thin metal slats, covered with a metal mesh with rods up to 1.5 mm thick and cells 1.5x4 cm.

Group design for young animals

If the floor is mesh, be sure to install a warm booth where the rabbits can warm themselves. With the onset of cold weather, it is insulated with hay and straw.

If it is not possible to build a separate “kindergarten”, young animals can be housed in cages for adults, but select the area based on the minimum sanitary standards and ease of care.

Cages for large rabbits

It is clear that conventional dimensions are not suitable for such large breeds. For example, a blue Viennese at one year of age already reaches 60 cm and weighs more than 7 kg.

If you are planning to have giants, you need to immediately understand what kind of cages they will need and what sizes you need to focus on. Among the large breeds:

• butterfly;
• German Risen;
• white giant;
• gray giant;
• mottled giant;
• Flanders;
• Soviet chinchilla;
• ram;
• Vienna blue, etc.

The minimum dimensions for one representative of the breed should be as follows:

• height 0.6-0.65 m;
• length 1.0-1.6 m;
• width 0.7-0.8 m.

Please note that this is the maximum permissible minimum; in reality, these dimensions should be increased by at least another 10-20 cm in all directions.

Considering the massive weight, the floor is well strengthened - it is also made from wooden blocks and covered with a metal mesh with a rod diameter of at least 2.5 mm.

Some livestock breeders recommend making a solid floor with plastic trays, but this is only justified if there are few cages. They clean here twice a day, otherwise the animal very quickly gets sick with pododermatitis.

What should be inside the cell

Depending on age and breed, it differs internal filling. So, for young animals there should be a warm house inside the cage where they can warm up. For a female with offspring, queen cells and nesting compartments will be needed.

Separately in the cage, you can set up an enclosure for walking (for young animals). Plus, you will need storage bins, drinking bowls, feeders, and grass compartments.

The feeder and drinker, regardless of what material they are made of, are located outside the cage. This makes it easier to add food and water, and the animal is not tempted to chew it off.

In conclusion, it must be added that rabbit cages are always located in a place protected from the wind - outdoors or indoors. It is advisable to choose the western or southwestern side so that the animal does not suffer from the heat in summer. The dimensions must exactly correspond to the breed, age and number of individuals.

VIDEO: Construction of queen cells

Breeding rabbits in households can be profitable, as well as result in complete losses. Rabbits actively breed, grow quickly, eat green food, and their meat and skins are expensive - and this brings considerable profit to the breeder. However, they are capricious in maintenance and subject to high mortality. Therefore, the construction of a rabbitry should be given the closest attention. We will tell you how to create a rabbitry with your own hands in this article.

The word "rabbit" has a double meaning. This is the name given to the room where rabbit enclosures are located, as well as cages placed together and mini-farms located on the street.

Most often, rabbit farms are heated and lit rooms with good ventilation, where cages are located in tiers. In regions with a mild climate, open rabbitries are more often used, which are a structure of two or three walls covered with a canopy.

Rabbit farm - inside view

A good rabbitry must meet the following requirements:

• create comfortable conditions for living and breeding of animals;
• be easy to use for a person of average height and build;
• have a well-thought-out system for removing waste from cells and their subsequent disposal.

Buildings for rabbitry are made one-story and rectangular. They are built in accordance with GOST 23838.

In practice, cages with these animals can be placed in a frame-type barn.

Common designs and their features

A standard indoor rabbitry is an enclosed room equipped with lighting, ventilation and heating systems, and, less commonly, a water supply system. There are cages in long rows, usually in three tiers. There are passages between them, optimal width which is equal to 1.5 m. Often part of the rabbitry is separated for technical rooms and feed storage.

Multi-tiered mini-farms

Rabbit hutch in a hole

This is one of the most controversial decisions; there are approximately equal numbers of supporters and opponents of this design.

An example of “pit” rabbit keeping

Pros of “pit” content:

• life in burrows is natural for rabbits;
• in the pits a microclimate, humidity and temperature that is normal for rabbits is naturally formed;
• animals breed all year round;
• good litter survival;
• animals get sick less often and gain weight better;
• feed is given to all animals at once, this saves time and effort.

Disadvantages of “pit” content:

• it is impossible to regulate mating;
• it is difficult to monitor the condition of individual individuals;
• difficult to catch animals;
• there is a possibility that the rabbits will dig under the walls and escape.

Example No. 1 of keeping rabbits in pits
Example No. 2 of keeping rabbits in pits
Example No. 3 of keeping rabbits in pits

For pit housing in a rabbitry, a hole 1 to 2 meters deep is dug around the entire perimeter. The floor and walls are concreted to prevent escapes. The resulting hole is filled with sand approximately 20 cm thick, on which a net is laid for easy cleaning. Feeders and drinking bowls are placed inside, and you can let rabbits in.

According to a number of farmers, pit farming is the best option, since it is as close as possible to natural conditions residence of rabbits. It is believed that the characteristics of meat from rabbits living underground are much better. However, despite all the advantages, organizing such housing is associated with a number of difficulties. dealing with rabbits in pits in .

All-season option with insulated compartments

The climate of Russia is such that in most of its territory the winter is too cold for keeping rodents indoors. outdoors or in uninsulated rooms. Therefore, to successfully keep rabbits, you need to think about insulation. There are two options here, and to achieve best result they need to be combined. Either heat the rabbitry or insulate the compartments themselves in which the animals are kept.

The temperature in the place where they are kept should not fall below -5. The ideal range for this time of year is considered to be from +5 to +15-20 degrees. Approaching the upper threshold of the specified range is most desirable; in warm conditions, rabbits reproduce well and gain weight. This will help prevent seasonal “breaks” in this type of business.

In the queen cell, the temperature should not fall below 10 degrees, otherwise the rabbits may die, or, under the best circumstances, they will lag significantly behind in development, and the farmer will spend more on maintaining the young than he will ultimately make a profit. It must be taken into account that rabbits are born naked and are very sensitive to cold. Although the female herself takes care of heating the cubs and insulating the nest, both mole rats, and rabbits that have already grown up and have grown fur - low temperatures, everything is exactly harmful. Systematic freezing leads to slow growth and poor weight gain, as well as decreased immunity.

Russian rabbit breeders came up with an original way to insulate compartments. A “pocket” made of thick plywood is attached to the bottom of the compartment, into which an EG-1 (or other) electric heating pad is placed. Using a transformer, if necessary, the heating pad is switched to a reduced mode, thereby heating the floor of the cage.

Basic principles to follow when setting up a rabbitry

Regardless of the chosen design of the rabbitry and cages, there are certain sanitary and hygienic standards that must be observed. In particular, there are certain standards for lighting, temperature and ventilation of cells. When creating a rabbitry, they must be adhered to.

Types and sizes of cells

From the description of large structures, let's move on to small ones, that is, to cells. They can be used either autonomously, to keep one or two animals separately from the rest, or stand in a barn-type rabbitry or be part of a collapsible mini-farm complex.

There are a lot of options for rabbit cages. But they can all be divided into three conditional groups, depending on their purpose.

Queen cells

These are specially designed cages where female rabbits are placed for lambing. There she gives birth and lives with the cubs until they reach twenty days of age.

A distinctive feature is the presence of a nest. It is a box made from scrap materials, such as plywood, and has dimensions of 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

Rules for building a nest:

• it is necessary to cut a hole in the nest at a height of at least 10 cm. This is done so that rabbits that are too small cannot get out of the nest;
• the floor in the queen cell should only be solid;
• the plywood from which the nest is made rots from the secretions of the animals, so it is necessary to lay a piece of waterproof material on the bottom, for example, a sheet of stainless steel, and on top - a thick layer of straw;
• the lid is made so that it can be raised and lowered (it is best to place it on furniture hinges);
• if the queen cell will be standing outside or in a cold room in winter, you need to take care of heating (you can use a cheap and proven heating method: an infrared lamp placed in a special compartment).

Two-section cage with hay for adults

This type of design is good for housing two adult animals. At positive temperatures it is permissible to display it outdoors; at sub-zero temperatures it is recommended to use it indoors, including heated ones.

A two-section cage is a wooden box 1.4 - 2 m long, 0.5 to 0.7 m high and 0.5-0.7 m wide. The top, bottom, side and rear walls are made solid. For this purpose, it is best to use structures made of sanded, unpainted boards knocked down without cracks, but other solutions are also possible, for example, from fine mesh or tin. In the last two cases, it is worth taking care of a rigid, strong frame that will support the entire structure.

Drinkers and feeders are placed along the edges, so that animals cannot climb into them with their paws.

Two-section cages can also be made multi-tiered. This will help to use the rabbitry area more efficiently.

Video - DIY two-section cage

Cage with nest

This option is a little more complicated to make, but allows the rabbit to lead a more natural lifestyle. In this case, the cell is divided into two compartments with a hole between them. The smaller compartment is insulated with hay and serves as a nest.

Group cells

Enclosures for young animals 3-6 months old, also called group cages. Animals can be either different-sex or same-sex. Please note that uncastrated males may begin to show aggression towards each other early, in which case they must be placed in individual compartments. The typical dimensions of this cage are 120 by 50 by 40 cm.

How to create a blueprint for a rabbitry

Of course, you can make a drawing of an individual cage or a whole rabbitry yourself, or simply adjust any of the above options to your size. Main parameter What you need to know is the number of rabbits that you plan to keep in the cage.

• One young animal requires a minimum of 0.1-0.2 m2. For a comfortable stay, this norm should be increased to 0.5 m2. Males that are planned to be allowed to breed need 2 times more space.
• An adult animal needs at least half a meter free space. Ideally, a meter to be able to move fully.
• For large breed rabbits, these standards need to be increased. The dimensions should be such that the animal can freely stretch out to its full length along the cage without resting its body against the walls, and can sit without touching the lid with its ears.
• The queen cell must have a separate nest. His standard sizes- 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

When the dimensions are determined, you can begin the drawing. You should start by drawing out the top view: draw a rectangle of the required dimensions, if necessary, divide it into sections. Then, all elements are indicated on the drawing: partitions, doors, manholes, feeders, etc. Dimensions are indicated everywhere. Based on the top view, a side view is drawn. The imaginary cut should pass through the most technologically complex section, for example, along the nest of the queen cell. The sizes must match. You can draw a view from below, focusing Special attention legs and supporting structure.

Nuances in making a rabbitry

If this is your first time building a cage, here are a few tips that will come in handy. They are not obvious to new farmers and will help to avoid mistakes.

Watching a video, where you can personally observe the construction process by professionals, also helps to avoid mistakes.

Video - Step-by-step construction of a cage for rabbits

Tools and materials

To build a rabbitry you don’t need anything particularly rare or expensive. As for the tools, a regular construction kit is sufficient. Having a welding machine will be a plus.

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Jigsaw

Usually, clapboard, timber or ordinary boards are used for construction. It’s just not recommended to use them; rabbits chew through the wood. Therefore, it is combined with the following materials:

Let's look at what materials the parts for creating cells are made from.

• Frame. It is made from wooden blocks.
• Side and back walls. They are made from thick boards. There are recommendations to make walls from plywood, but this should not be done. Plywood is less durable, it warps from moisture, delaminates and bubbles, and, most importantly, rabbits quickly chew through it.
• Front wall. Made from fine mesh. Iron mesh can only be used if it is painted or coated, otherwise it will rust.

• Floor. It is made of fine mesh or boards stuffed in parallel.
• Roof. Made from wood, roofing felt, slate. But corrugated sheeting can be used exclusively for covering cages standing under a canopy or indoors - it gets very hot in the sun.

How to choose a place

Regardless of whether you want to build a building, a mini-farm, or just put a few cages under a canopy, you need to start by choosing a suitable location.

Accepted in Russian Federation building codes allowed to build on personal plot outbuilding with an area of ​​15 sq. m. and a building for keeping farm animals or poultry with an area of ​​40 square meters. m. The residential building must be located at a distance of at least 15 m from the two above-mentioned buildings.

Additionally, you need to take care of the following:

Even if there is no place on your personal plot that fully satisfies all these conditions, try to get as close to the ideal as possible. Minor discrepancies are not critical.

Prices for various types of timber

Step-by-step instructions for creating a rabbitry for beginners

At first glance, it seems that such a structure is very difficult to build on your own, but this is just an illusion. Even for a delitant it is quite possible to make a rabbitry on your own, spending from several hours to several days on it.

If you decide to build a rabbitry with your own hands, the algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. Using the tips above, choose a place for the future rabbitry, decide on its size, layout, and material for construction.

Step 2. Build the cage frame according to the dimensions in the drawing. It can be wooden or metal. If several cells stand side by side, the frame should be solid.

Step 3. Using a carpenter's square and level, attach the shelf and upper frame to the frame;

Step 4. The bottom and lid are assembled on a frame made of wooden beam or cut them separately from thick plywood. In the latter case, it is necessary to cut holes for the legs at the corners.

Step 5. The bottom and lid are attached to the frame.

Step 6. A mesh is nailed to the door. Attach it to the frame with furniture dowels.

We nail the frame, which will later contain the mesh.

Shchag 7. Cover the sides of the cage with mesh or boards. The mesh is cut with metal scissors and placed on the screws with a screwdriver.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Watching a video of the manufacturing process will also help with construction.

Video - Do-it-yourself rabbit cage from professionals

This video shows in detail all stages of construction, gives useful tips for beginners.

As you can see from the article, making a rabbitry with your own hands is quite possible even for a beginner. You just need to strictly follow the advice, and everything will work out.

Depending on the age and size of the pet, the cage parameters may vary. For example, for rabbits of the "" breed, special cages will be required. Certain breeds will also need their own special cages.

The length of the cage for females with hatching should be 175-185cm, width – 1m, height – 60-70cm. During the hatching period, it is important that the female feels comfortable. Rabbits are incredibly afraid of dampness and drafts. Place the cages so that they are not constantly exposed to the sun. The façade of the cage should be placed to the east or west. Dig the pillar into the ground (to a depth of 0.6-0.8m), place stationary cells. Portable cages can be placed on stands or wooden trestles. Single-tier cages can be installed at a level of 70-80cm from the ground. In order for rabbits to move easily in cages, the structures must be free. For rabbits weighing over five kilograms, cages with a length of 130-150 cm, a depth of 70 cm, a back wall height of 40-45 cm, and a front wall height of 55-60 cm will be required.

Group cages are used for transplanted young animals. In such cages you can simultaneously keep from eight to twenty rabbits.

From three to five animals under three months of age or two to three rabbits over 3 months of age are kept in individual cages.

For one rabbit, the cage area should be at least 0.5 square meters. m, at least 35cm – wall height.

When making group cages, take into account the number of individuals, because each animal will need at least 0.15-0.20 square meters. m.

External cages for keeping rabbits can be one-, two-, or three-tiered. There should be 35 cm from the surface of the ground to the cells of the lower tier.

In winter, when you need to care for suckling rabbits, you should cover the floor in the nesting compartment with straw. The layer of straw is up to twenty centimeters.

Choose non-artificial materials for making the cage. Synthetic materials have a bad effect on the development of rabbits - this rule is important for all breeds of rabbits.

Cage for adult rabbits

Since large cages are needed for a female with a hatch, a cage with the following parameters will be sufficient for an ordinary rabbit: width 60-70cm, height - 60cm, length -100cm. These are the minimum cage sizes for one adult.

The rabbits are growing, and they will need larger cages. For adult rabbits, cages with the following parameters are suitable: width – 60-80cm, height – 50cm, length – 120-150cm. Farmers say that in such a cage an adult will feel free and have personal space. Experts agreed that the floor of the cage should be made of mesh or slats. In appearance, the cage should resemble a block consisting of two cells, each of which can contain an adult.

You can fence off the feeding and nesting compartments of the cage with a wall, although the pet will not get lost and will find food.

When choosing cells, you need to take into account gender. A cage for a female rabbit will not suit a rabbit, although they will be of the same type. Consider the cage size and external conditions when creating the cage.

A two-tier shed is a row of cages placed in one or several tiers. Details about. A two-tier shed would be a suitable choice - it reduces the working area and does not complicate the control and care of pets. This design is used in the southern regions or on the street. But such an enclosure can be organized in a barn or for the use of summer keeping rabbits. The shad should not stand on the ground. It is preferable to place it at a height of 50-60cm. Considering the size of the pet, the width of the shad should be up to 2m, depth – up to 1m. You can also make a two-tier shed yourself. You will need boards, slate and a durable steel mesh. The shed is built on a one-sided principle. A concrete foundation will increase the stability of the structure. Improved design includes manure channel and drip trays. Sheds – The best way for keeping rabbits. Arranging a shed allows you to keep several pets and makes caring for rabbits easier.

It is important to make a drawing of the cage and in the future add additional houses or even rows of houses for new pets. In the sheds, all the cells are the same in size, the houses are covered with a canopy, placed close to adjacent structures and placed one above the other. The convenience of this design is that the rabbits will spend spring and summer outside.

In winter, rabbits in sheds are given specially heated water. Typically, a nursery for grass or hay is set up between two houses. The cages have waste-free hopper feeders - they need to be loaded for 3 - 8 days. A bunker feeder can be made from steel sheets. In spring and summer they use automatic feeding drinking water for rabbits. The passage in the shed is located at a slight slope from the center to the exit. The rear walls of the cage form the walls of the shad. The sheds have small windows with bars. In winter, the windows with bars are closed with folding doors. The doors are made from the inside of the cells. Be sure to hang drinking bowls and feeders. An overhead road for trolleys (for transporting feed) is equipped along the middle passage.

You will need a double cage with a queen cell. The queen cell is a removable compartment where babies up to a month old will be kept. It is also called the aft compartment. The largest part of such a cell is called the feed cell. There should be a hole between the cells, measuring 17x20cm. A similar design is suitable for a male and a female, two rabbits with babies. Solid wooden partition or mesh will separate the compartments. It is best to make the floor from wooden slats (1.5 cm increments), then the manure will fall into the lower pan.

Rabbits do not live long and should be comfortable in the house. You should not save too much on materials, because healthy pets will fully pay for the costs. A double cage with a queen cell includes a nursery, a door to the nesting compartment, a mesh door, a folding drinker and feeder, a stand post, and a feeder axis.

The designs should be such that there is no need to constantly open the doors to fill them. Sawdust or small shavings are not suitable for bedding - the dust from them will cause the rabbit to sneeze.

Double cages with mesh aviary

To build a double, single-tier cage with a mesh enclosure, you will need 0.6 sq. m mesh (cells 35x35mm); lumber - 0.2 cubic meters. m, 1.3 sq. m metal mesh(cells 18x18mm) - if this is not available, then an all-welded mesh (cells 16x48mm) will do. Similar designs are needed for non-pregnant rabbits of reproductive age. They can also house adult rabbits and young animals separated from their queens.

Cages for rabbits with devices for storing food for 1-2 weeks

These are advanced cages, they are made from various building materials. Features: in the center there are structures for breeding stock, and along the walls there are enclosures for young individuals. The structures can be two- or three-tiered. But make it so that feces and urine do not fall from the upper cells.

For the uterine compartment: 40x70x60cm, for the light compartment: 60x70x60cm. Auto-drinkers, feeders, nurseries for grass and hay are located in a bright compartment. Install a mesh or slatted grille at a height of 5-10cm in the uterine compartment and at a height of 10-15cm from the floor in the light compartment. In summer you need to clean the cages more often because worms form in the manure.

Cage sizes for Zolotukhin rabbits

Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin, a famous rabbit breeder, developed his own concept for keeping rabbits.

In such cages there are no pallets, the floor is made of boards or slate, the rear walls are mounted at an angle, there are no special queen cells, grain feeders are fixed to the doors, only along rear walls The design has a narrow strip of mesh floor. Cell dimensions: 70x100cm, cells are placed one above the other in several tiers, queen cells are also placed. To prevent the baby rabbits from falling out through the open door, place a board in front of the queen cell. Queen cells are placed one above the other. A separate opaque door, common to all structures, is installed. The queen cell is located in the cage itself, only part of the removable board is fenced off.

Dimensions of cages for giant rabbits

Breed large rabbits meat and skin direction was called the “gray giant”. Required dimensions designs: width 35cm, length – 60cm, height – 40cm. You can make a more spacious cage: height – 61cm, length – 96cm, width – 68cm. The “gray giant” rabbit lives in areas with different climatic conditions.

Dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits

The following design is suitable: width 50cm, length 70cm, height 30cm. To make a rabbitry, you will need a soldered mesh, the cells must be square. You will need rolled wire, diameter 6mm. Thinner wire should be wrapped around the joints on the structure. In such designs, water is supplied through nipple drinkers, and there are also small feeders with a supply of food. The animals are fed for about a week. During this period they should be carefully looked after.

Cage sizes for California rabbits

California rabbits are easy to care for. This is a hybrid of Russian ermine, Soviet chinchilla and New Zealand breed. The dimensions of the structure can be 1.5 times smaller than for “gray giant” rabbits. These rabbits can tolerate the cold well even without bedding. For a cell with a queen cell, 0.4 square meters will be enough. m, for one individual – 0.3 sq. m. They are easy to maintain. California rabbits have coarse fur on their feet. When placing individuals in mesh blocks, place pets of the same age - this will make it easier to care for, feed, and conduct veterinary examinations.

To raise California rabbits solely for meat, keep them in a pit. Setting up a pit is very easy, and the living conditions of these rabbits in the pit will be as close as possible to natural conditions their habitat.

To build a rabbit pit, you need to dig a hole with approximate dimensions of 2x2x1 m, strengthen the walls with slate or concrete, lay a mesh or plank floor, enclose the hole with a fence, and make a roof. California rabbits will burrow, mate, breed, and raise young.

To avoid degeneration of rabbits, do not allow inbreeding. The rabbit breeder is obliged to supply water, feed, and periodically carry out selective selection. To avoid inbreeding, the first generation to reach sexual maturity, obtained from a particular male, must be captured and replaced with other rabbits.

California rabbits eat dairy products, fish or meat meal, and various protein supplements well. In winter, pets should have warm liquid to drink. Constant access to water is required for rabbits.

IN last years It is very popular among farmers to breed California rabbits. This breed is easy to breed on specialized farms. European rabbits are the ancestors of this individual. Initially, breeders set themselves the task of developing a meat breed of rabbits with good skins. This breed is one of the most famous meat rabbit breeds. 7-8 rabbits is the average fertility of rabbits. When breeding, female rabbits can produce 11-12 rabbits. Rabbits are white (grayish) at birth, and by 3.5-4 months of age they become similar in color to adult rabbits. In two months, newborn rabbits gain two kilograms of weight. Adult female rabbits weigh 4.7-5.2 kg, rabbits - 4.5-5 kg. If you cross New Zealand white rabbits with California rabbits, you can achieve excellent results breeding. Rabbits of this breed have drooping legs. California rabbits have been successfully bred on slatted floors. The tail of Californian rabbits lies close to the body, the chin is symmetrical, the head is set on a short neck, a wide back and shoulders, and a cylindrical body of medium length.

This breed may also be called the “California White Rabbit” because it is pure white. However, the tips of the ears, tail and paws may be brown or black. Usually such a rabbit weighs no more than 5 kg. If you weigh more, you are obese. The rabbit's legs are thick and short, its eyes are pink, its skeleton is strong and light. The length of the ears does not exceed 10cm. Experienced breeders advise novice rabbit breeders to pay attention to breeding California rabbits, because they are easy to keep.

The length of the fur is approximately 3cm, the length of the body is 50cm. The head is round, medium-sized. The rabbit's fur is shiny and thick. California rabbits can also be bought for entertainment, because they have a peaceful disposition and cheerful character. With proper care, California rabbits can live up to ten years. However, due to their large size, such individuals will be difficult to keep as ornamentals. Rooms with moderate, constant air temperature and lighting are suitable for their maintenance. You can feed them hay, grass, cereals, flour, vegetables, and cereals.

Optimal cage sizes for rabbits

Suitable cages will have the following dimensions: length - 120-150cm, width - 60-80cm, front wall height - 45-50cm, the door should be mesh, dimensions 65x70x50cm, slatted or mesh floor.

Dimensions of industrial cages for rabbits

Industrial cage designs are modular, which, taking into account the stages of the process cycle, allows new designs to be added to existing ones. Dimensions: 2x2x1x7m, there are ten uterine compartments, measuring 40x92cm. To facilitate access to the boxes, there are spring-loaded lids. The operator, using the lifting covers of the partitions, can clean the rabbit uterus sections without any obstacles, perform weaning, individual therapy, palpation, and insemination. To remove litter, all cages have removable corner panels.