Most compatriots, in particular skilled craftsmen, often independently take on the task of repairing a house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they treat the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even disbelief. own strength. And although often for installing a toilet, for example, you have to pay mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet with your own hands is a very simple task!

Preparing for installation

Of course, it wouldn’t hurt for you to become familiar with a number of specific nuances associated with the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can figure them out without any problems. In fact, it turns out that installation, direct installation and connection to common system sewerage systems of all types of bathrooms are practically no different from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional functions, coupled with the installation of an automated system.

Different systems consist of similar elements

Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. There should not be any difficulties during the installation of the drain and fill system. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to regulate the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.

Check the complete set of the drain tank

Application deserves special attention. This solution is very convenient to use. We will talk about installation in detail in a separate review.

Toilet installation step by step

Let's look at the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet. We will talk specifically about new residents, that is, our instructions do not imply dismantling the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.

So, to install the newly purchased toilet yourself, you need to do the following:

This is all! Self-installation the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: you must allow the silicone to harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, don’t skimp on the sealant! There is never too much of it in installation work. But be sure to make sure that the silicone does not end up inside the pipe.

Note: For self-installation you don’t need a bathroom and its tank professional tools. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable types.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

This model is especially popular in European countries. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downwards when installed. This universal design allows you to install the bathroom at any angle to the wall.

For installation you only need to perform a few steps:

• Make floor markings and install a regular screw flange with a locking device;
• Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;
• Mount the toilet on the flange and securely fix the outlet pipe.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

Or in another way with direct release “into the wall”. Most common in Russia. The outlet of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet pipe in this design is connected to the sewer pipe using a specific cuff.

In the installation procedure, pay attention to the attachment of the bathroom to the floor. The legs of this type of toilet are usually equipped with specific holes designed for fixing plumbing fixtures specifically to the floor surface.

Advice: You should begin connecting a bathroom with direct outlet during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Fasten the structure with great care, since excessively strong and sharp screw “pulling” is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.

Toilet with oblique outlet

Let's look at the main installation points:

Specifics of connection without corrugation

We have already discussed connecting the bathroom to the general sewerage system using corrugated pipes in step by step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet without using corrugation, and won’t this process be more complicated? Such a connection is, of course, possible, but it is unlikely to raise any questions for you.

If you are finally convinced that the corrugation is unnecessary, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:

Mandatory use of a drain pipe. Taking into account the angle of the toilet, connecting the adapter is carried out using different methods:

bathroom with oblique outlet– installation is carried out in the floor: in modern apartments you will no longer see such a connection, but once upon a time it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet– installation is carried out strictly at right angles to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal outlet– the installation angle is equivalent to 40º, installation is carried out in the wall.

1. If the outlet of the bathroom does not suit the outlet of the sewage system, it is necessary to either purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible adapter pipes.

Thus, installing a toilet with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics of the plumbing installation. This will cost you much less than calling professionals to your home.

In the next article we will tell.

Not only the comfort when visiting the restroom, but also the safety of its operation depends on the correct installation of plumbing fixtures in the toilet room. After all, if the water supply to the toilet is not carried out correctly, this can lead not only to problems with the flush, but also to troubles with the neighbors, who are unlikely to notice the water dripping from the ceiling.

The instructions below will help you avoid the troubles listed above and perform all the work correctly.

Choosing a toilet and the nuances of its installation

The toilet is an integral element of any city apartment or house. Most people completely in vain do not pay due attention to the choice of this device. Meanwhile, there are a huge number of models that differ not only in size and color, but also in the shape of the bowl, the location of the outlet pipe, the design of the cistern, and so on.

The method of installation depends on the type of toilet. After all, if, for example, you purchased a model with a vertical outlet channel, and the sewer pipe is laid in the wall, installation will be impossible; you will have to either modify utility network, or buy a new plumbing fixture.

Also, before purchasing, you need to decide how the water supply to the toilet will be carried out.

In order to avoid inconvenience and problems with using the restroom, it is advisable to follow these rules:

1. Choose the right toilet. A huge range of these products in modern construction stores allows you to choose any model based on personal preferences. It is advisable that the device you buy is not only beautiful, but also easy to install with your own hands.
   Price also has a significant influence on the choice. Usually, foreign models plumbing fixtures are quite expensive, but there are also domestic options, the cost of which is quite affordable, and the quality is at the proper level.

1. Buy quality fittings, optional equipment and tools. The specific set depends on how the toilet will be fixed: on studs, cement mortar, and so on.
   In any case, you need to stock up on hoses and sealing gaskets different diameters, polymer tape for sealing threaded connections, silicone sealant and other little things.
2. Special attention When installing, pay attention to preparing the base. The floor must be perfectly level so that installed toilet didn't sway from side to side. This will not only create discomfort while using it, but can also cause injury.
3. Connect the device securely and firmly to water supply and waste disposal systems. This is where pre-purchased seals come in handy. Make sure that the dimensions of the gaskets exactly match the diameter of the holes.

Advice!
After finishing the work, you should pause so that the gels polymerize.
Only after 3-4 hours can a test run of the drain tank be carried out.

Water supply to the cistern

Types of hoses used

Connecting the toilet cistern to the plumbing system is a simple procedure at first glance. But when carrying out work, you need to pay attention to some features that greatly influence the final result.

Advice!
First of all, turn off the water plumbing system.
For this, either a tap is used, which is located on a special outlet for the toilet, or, in the absence of the latter, a shut-off valve responsible for the entire apartment.

The next step is choosing the type of eyeliner. All existing varieties and their features are presented in the table.

View	Description
Tough	To connect the incoming pipe of the cistern to the pipe of the water supply system, tubes made of steel or copper are used. The first is a corrugated pipe, characterized by strength and durability. All elements in contact with the liquid are made of stainless steel, which eliminates the formation of corrosion. Copper tubes almost never used due to high cost.
Flexible	For supplying water to the inlet storage capacity meet hoses made from various materials. A flexible supply to the toilet is no less reliable than a steel one, but allows you to arrange a supply complex configuration. Most often, rubber tubes reinforced with metal threads are used. Buy materials from well-known manufacturers, as cheap fakes can tear and leaking water can flood your neighbors.

Advice!
During installation, make sure that flexible liner connected to the cold water supply and not to the hot water supply line.

Location of inlet pipes

There are several ways to connect the toilet to the water supply. Specific view depends both on the design of the plumbing fixture itself and on the method of placing the storage tank. Some tanks can be attached to the toilet itself, others can be hidden mounted on the wall or simply hung on it.

In both cases, the location of the inlet pipe is extremely important, because sometimes building construction make it impossible to connect the hose.

Let's consider all the options for the location of inlet holes for pipes:

1. With side eyeliner. Such models are the most common. Connection holes are equipped on both the right and left sides of the tank to make installation work as easy as possible.
   Toilets, in most cases, are placed so that there is free space on the sides for their comfortable use. Consequently, the hose attached to the side of the tank will be convenient to install, and the tap will be easy to turn off if necessary.
   Sometimes a sink is placed on the side, close to the toilet, which complicates the installation. In this case, you can choose not a rigid pipe, but a flexible hose that can take any convenient shape.

1. With rear eyeliner. Tanks with rear connection hoses are rarely used. After all, toilets are usually placed so that their backs are almost flush against the wall of the restroom. That is, access to the pipe and shut-off valves that block the flow of water will be very difficult.
   In addition, there is a high probability that during use of the toilet the supply hose will be damaged, and this will lead to the formation of a leak.
2. With bottom eyeliner. This method is the most aesthetically pleasing, since the hoses, pipes and stopcocks are practically invisible and do not bring dissonance to the interior of the restroom.
   The disadvantage of this solution is the complexity of installation. Here you must first install the pipe and connect it to the supply hose, and only after that install the toilet flush container onto the bowl.

Installation of the supply hose

The process of connecting the toilet to the water supply system to the flush tank is as follows:

1. To avoid leaks, you need to turn off the water in the water supply system of your apartment or house.
2. The purchased flexible hose or corrugated pipe should be connected to a pre-arranged outlet of the cold water supply pipe. It is advisable to do this through shut-off valves– a tap – which can shut off the access of water to the toilet without stopping the operation of the entire utility network.

1. Everything must be sealed with a special polymer tape and silicone sealant. Remember that the sealing gel must dry before water is released into the equipped inlet.
2. The pipe is installed. As a rule, this is a plastic sleeve fixed in one of the holes (right, left, bottom or back) and secured with special nuts.
3. The inlet is connected to the inlet of the pipe. It is already equipped with a special gasket that ensures tightness, but for reliability it is better to use a plastic sealing tape.

1. Once the connection is complete, you need to wait 2-3 hours until all the sealants have completely hardened, then open the shut-off valve and test the toilet cistern in action.
   Check the following joints for leaks:

• between the connection and the water pipe;
• between the hose and the inlet pipe of the drain tank;
• at the junction of the storage tank and the toilet bowl (a large rubber O-ring is installed there).

Installation of tank drain fittings

In addition to eyeliner, for correct functioning The drain tank is responsible for the mechanism installed there. Its cost is low, but you will have to pay a considerable amount for installation services. Therefore, it is also better to do this operation yourself.

The drain fittings are installed as follows:

1. The mechanism housing is installed on the outlet of the tank. To ensure tightness, a rubber or silicone gasket is also used here. When purchasing fittings, check that the seal is not damaged.
2. To the inlet pipe with inside a valve is attached that controls the flow of water entering the container.
3. Then the water level is adjusted. The float must be controlled using a special screw. His position is selected empirically.

Bathroom renovation is rarely complete without replacing the plumbing, for which many people rush to call a professional plumber. Meanwhile, you can do without the additional expenses required to pay for the services of a master. After all, installing a toilet with your own hands is not something prohibitively difficult and requires special technical knowledge.

Installation instructions for a floor-mounted toilet

After reading the instructions and understanding the rules for installing a plumbing fixture, you can safely proceed to independent implementation works Connecting the toilet to the sewer with the help of modern connecting elements is not difficult. In most cases, even sealants are not required.

This video clearly shows how to install a toilet and connect it to the sewerage system and water supply. After watching this video instruction, install this sanitary product you can do it without any problems.

IN modern models plumbing fixtures are provided with holes for fastening products to the floor. Installation of equipment begins after completion finishing works and styling floor tiles. Therefore, below we explain step by step how to install a toilet on a tile and connect it to all the necessary communications.

• They're starting installation work from connecting the device to the sewer using a corrugated outlet.
• A rubber corrugated seal, slightly moistened with water, is placed on the toilet outlet pipe.

• Then the device is installed in the selected location and the second end of the corrugation is connected to the sewer pipe.
• Using the mounting lugs located at the base of the toilet, marks are made on the tiled floor with a pencil or marker.
• Next, disconnect the corrugation from the sewer outlet and move the toilet to the side in order to drill holes in the marked places with a hammer drill, the diameter of which should correspond to the plugs included with the fasteners. To carry out this operation, you will need special drills with pobedite tips, which are designed for drilling tiles and concrete.
• Return the toilet to its original place and align the holes made with the mounting ears. The toilet is attached to the floor using elongated screws with a hex head.
• The installation of the toilet on the tile is completed by sealing the joint formed by the device and the floor surface.

Note! When tightening the screws, it is not recommended to use much force, otherwise the ceramic may split. The screws are tightened until the plumbing fixture stops wobbling.

If the product does not have fastening lugs, then how to secure the toilet to the floor in this case? There are other ways. For example, you can “plant” the device on cement mortar or epoxy glue. In this case, thoroughly clean the floor surface before applying the adhesive material.

Connecting the cistern to the toilet bowl

To secure the tank to the toilet bowl, you need to use two mounting bolts and a large rubber gasket that fits onto the outlet part drain mechanism. Long bolts with threaded washers and rubber cone seals are inserted into special holes in the bottom of the drain tank. After this, install the tank in the designated place, and combine all three holes, one of which is drainage, and the other two are mounting holes. The mounting screws are tightened from the bottom of the toilet with plastic nuts equipped with small “wings” that make them easier to tighten by hand.

Fastener configurations vary, but fundamental differences not included in the installation

Important! No need to use keys. Tighten the nuts only by hand. And they do this as long as they have enough strength.

Connecting the tank to the water supply

On last stage connect the drain tank to the cold water supply system, for which they usually use a flexible hose with nuts at both ends. Select for compaction rubber gaskets or use a special FUM tape.

It is advisable to install a shut-off valve on the pipe supplying cold water into the tank. This will allow you to locally shut off water in one place to carry out the product, while other water collection points will operate as usual.

In our next article you will find detailed instructions for installing the cistern: .

Connecting the toilet to the sewerage system

As a rule, it is not the dismantling process that makes it difficult for many people. outdated device and subsequent correct installation a new model toilet, and the procedure for connecting it to the sewer pipe. Meanwhile, this operation is not particularly difficult, especially if you choose a model with the same type of connection as the dismantled equipment.

Manufactured toilet models are divided into three types based on location drain pipe which can go:

• parallel to the floor surface (horizontal outlet);
• perpendicular to the floor surface (vertical outlet);
• at an angle of 30-40 degrees to the floor plane (oblique release).

Important! If you purchase a device with a different type of drain, you may need to replace the sewer wiring and adjust it to the new equipment.

Toilets with vertical outlet

Such models are common in European countries. IN plumbing fixtures with a vertical outlet, the pipe and siphon located in the toilet bowl are directed downward. This design is convenient because the toilet can be placed against the wall at any angle. This is done quite simply:

• after marking is completed on the floor, a standard screw flange equipped with a lock is installed;
• V round hole located in the center of the flange, install a sewer pipe;
• install the toilet on the flange, turning it until it is completely fixed; in this case, the outlet pipe is automatically pressed against the end of the sewer pipe due to the existing sealing ring.

Toilet with horizontal outlet

This type of toilet connection received greatest distribution in our country. This is due to the peculiarities of the installation of the sewerage system in apartment buildings. The equipment must be installed against a specific wall. In this case, the toilet outlet directed towards the wall is connected to sewer outlet using a special sealing collar. For fastening to the floor, there are special holes in the legs of the toilet bowl that are designed for fixation.

The corrugation can be secured using sealant, or without it at all.

Toilets with oblique outlet

Installation of a toilet with an oblique outlet is carried out as follows:

• to begin with, lubricate the outlet of the device having grooves with red lead mixed with drying oil;
• then they wind a resin strand on top, not reaching the end of the outlet pipe by 0.5 cm, so that the ends of the winding do not get into sewer hole and did not contribute to the formation of blockages;
• the wound strand must also be thoroughly lubricated with red lead;
• After this, the toilet is installed and the outlet pipe is fixed into the socket of the sewer pipe.

Variety of connecting elements

In most cases, to connect the toilet to the waste pipe, an eccentric or corrugated collar is used, which makes it possible to connect the elements if it is impossible to connect them directly. Therefore, the toilet is not attached to the floor until a preliminary experimental connection to the sewer has been carried out.

Eccentric cuffs consist of two pipes welded together, with offset centers. Thanks to the special structure of the eccentric, it is possible to connect the toilet outlet with the sewer pipe or inlet pipe. Manufacturers produce eccentrics of different lengths, which must be taken into account when selecting a suitable part.

Important! Installation of the eccentric to the toilet and sewer pipe is carried out without the use of sealants, since the tightness of the connection is achieved due to rubber seals, available at both ends of the cuff. Sealing problems may occur when connecting an eccentric to an old cast iron sewer. To eliminate the possibility of leakage, after connecting the elements, it is necessary to apply a sealant to the joint.

Connecting elements for connecting the toilet to the sewer: corrugation, eccentric collar, plastic outlet

You may also find the instructions for installing a toilet corrugation useful:

In practice, it is not always possible to connect the toilet to the sewer using an eccentric collar, since the connecting elements can be displaced by long distance from each other. Therefore, most often they use a corrugated cuff that can stretch to the required length. In addition to its ability to stretch, corrugation is also easily subject to deformation, which allows the master to achieve desired angle connections. This is the main advantage of the corrugated cuff, which allows for connection to the sewer in absolutely all cases. Of course, we are not talking about a significant change in the position of the toilet, since in this case it will be necessary to change the design of the sewer wiring in the bathroom. This work You'll have to leave it to a professional.

Having learned how to properly install a toilet, as well as connect it to the water supply and sewerage system, you can begin installing the device yourself. If you feel that you cannot cope with these works, then call professionals who understand all the nuances of installing plumbing equipment.

From the author: Hello, dear readers! If you are faced with the question of how to connect the toilet to the sewer, then you have reached the main stage of installation. Why to the main thing? Yes, because it is from this moment that depends how trouble-free the operation of your sanitaryware will be.

For some reason, many home craftsmen I know don’t like to deal with plumbing. Moreover, they calmly carry out other complex work, from installation suspended ceilings before moving the walls in the apartment. But to replace the faucet, outside craftsmen are invited.

They explain this by saying that it is difficult to tinker with plumbing, and the consequences of doing the work incorrectly can be very disastrous: this includes damage to your own home and flooding of your neighbors.

In fact, despite all the responsibility in our particular case, it is quite possible to cope with connecting sanitary ware to the sewer system on your own; this does not require any unique knowledge or complex drawings. It is enough to follow the generally accepted system and treat the work carefully and with all care. So make yourself comfortable, we will sort out the issue.

Possible connection types

Connecting the toilet to the sewer great importance have two points: the outlet angle (that is, the location of the sewer hole) and the type of pipe itself with which the connection is made.

The sewer outlet can be horizontal, vertical and oblique. The first option is when the pipe runs from the toilet to the sewer parallel to the floor, that is, located horizontally. With an oblique outlet, the outlet hole in the earthenware product is located slightly higher than the sewer hole in the wall. Therefore, the pipe runs at an angle relative to the floor.

In the vertical version, the sewer pipe goes from the toilet to the floor. For some reason, this connection model was not popular in our country before. But now the example of Europe and the United States of America has prompted the fact that vertical exhaust is being used more and more often; it is now usually found in new buildings.

The advantage of the latter option is that the equipment is not tied to the wall. That is, you can install it anywhere, even in the center of the room. In this case, the pipes will be hidden under the floor finishing material.

Types of pipes

The connecting pipes through which the contents of the toilet go into the sewer system come in different types:

• corrugated. This is a soft bendable pipe, similar to an accordion. It is convenient in that it can be adjusted to the discrepancy between the heights of the toilet outlet and the sewer hole by simply bending it. The downside is the long length. Even a short corrugated pipe itself can exceed the required distance. Another disadvantage is the low strength of the product - it is less than other options;
• eccentric. This device is shorter and stronger than corrugation. Suitable for cases where the height of the outlet and sewer outlet do not match. It consists of two cylinders connected by a pipe and shifted along vertical axis relative to each other. In this case, the disadvantage may be just the insufficient length, which is usually from 10 to 12 centimeters. In addition, you need to be very careful in measuring the height difference between the holes in the bathroom so that the eccentric fits exactly;
• plastic. It is made of the appropriate material, which gives it fairly decent strength characteristics. In addition, it is smooth on the inside, which greatly reduces the likelihood of blockages. Another advantage is the possibility of cutting, that is, such a pipe can be adjusted to the required length. But there are some downsides here too. Rigidity plastic pipe requires special precision and care of installation. If even the slightest misalignment occurs at the joints, then leaks will be inevitable. Also not too pleased with the appearance. If you take inexpensive option pipes, then it will be gray, which rarely harmonizes with the color of the toilet and other sanitary ware in. Can be found white version, but its cost is much higher;
• fun. It is used if the sewer riser has too little capacity. Fan pipe made from earthenware or porcelain. On the one hand, this gives the entire structure a solid appearance and aesthetics. On the other hand, although the material is hard, it is also fragile. Therefore, there is a risk of damaging it both during operation and during installation. However, installing such a pipe is not the easiest thing at all, so it is best to entrust it to experienced professionals.

The most popular pipe option for connecting to a sewer system is corrugated. It has a low price, can bend as you like, and can also be stretched if necessary. True, one should take into account both the aforementioned low strength coupled with the long length, and not the easiest cleaning process outer surface such a pipe. Dust and dirt constantly gets stuck in small folds, so the cleaning process becomes quite lengthy and difficult.

In addition, if the slope of such a pipe is rather weak, then it will have to be cleaned periodically. And also, with prolonged use, sagging may occur, especially in the case of a long corrugation length. However, even the presence of so many disadvantages does not prevent it from being the best option connections.

Preparation for installation

When you have decided on the choice of connection method, it’s time to move on to the actual preparation. First, you need to purchase everything necessary tools and materials. Of course, first of all it is the toilet itself and the pipe.

In addition to these, you will need the following:

• rubber cuffs that will serve as seals;
• special adapters, if necessary;
• silicone sealant;
• if you decide to use a plastic pipe, then a tool for cutting it (a hacksaw for metal is quite suitable);
• tools for measurements and markings: pencil and tape measure;
• if you need to dismantle an old cast iron sewer pipe, then also stock up on a hammer, a flat-head screwdriver and a pry bar, wire brush and a piece of rags.

Let's talk about the last point in more detail. If we're talking about not about a new building, then most likely old toilet The outlet was built directly into the cast iron elbow. Moreover, this entire structure was usually generously cemented to obtain high strength and reliability of the connection.

Source: kanalizaciyam.ru

The easiest way in this case is to first just break ceramic element using a hammer. Be sure to wear safety glasses when doing this, as the fragments will fly violently and suddenly. It is necessary to protect your eyes from them.

After you have knocked the toilet away from the knee, you need to tap the latter on all sides with a hammer. However, keep in mind that you don’t need to put in too much effort. Old cast iron may surprise you with its sudden brittleness. If you split a pipe with an excessively powerful blow, you will have to get all the way to the sewer riser and replace the broken element with a new one. That is, the work will become more complicated and drawn out. Therefore, tap lightly.

Thanks to this procedure, it will be possible to remove cement residues, as well as accumulated deposits, from the inner walls of cast iron. Small pieces can be pulled out with a screwdriver, and large pieces can be removed using a pry bar.

When all global deposits have been removed, put on protective gloves and apply inner surface pipe cleaner for toilet. For example, the “Duckling” toilet would be suitable. After application, wait 10–15 minutes, and then thoroughly clean the treated surface with a wire brush.

The final step will be wiping with a piece of rag. During the cleaning procedure, pay special attention to the five-centimeter section of the pipe, which is located at the very exit. As a result of your manipulations, it should become smooth. This is necessary to ensure that the joint with the new toilet pipe is airtight.

Installation and connection of the toilet

Now let's look at how to correctly install and connect a new earthenware product. First, let's look at the process in detail using an example of use. corrugated pipe, as the optimal and most popular option. And then we’ll talk about other methods, which, however, are not too different.

Corrugated connection

Corrugation can be used in cases where the toilet has either an oblique or horizontal outlet. Before purchasing a pipe, measure the distance between the toilet outlet and the sewer in the wall. Take a corrugation one third longer than this indicator. Next we perform the following steps.

1. We coat the joint of the sewer hole with silicone sealant (at the same time we apply a thicker layer), then insert a rubber cuff there.
2. We install the rubber end of the corrugated pipe into the drain through the seal. We push it inward until all the rings are completely inserted. Until the installation of all other elements of the toilet structure is completed, do not touch this end of the pipe; the silicone must dry completely in order to obtain a normal seal.
3. We install the toilet in its rightful place. It must be absolutely stable. To check this fact, just sit on top and gently try to swing. If it is not possible to achieve an even installation, then most likely the floor needs to be leveled.
4. When you have finally achieved stability and reliability from the toilet, connect the other end of our corrugation to the corresponding hole.
5. Now carry out the test - pour three buckets of water into the toilet. After a minute, carefully inspect the places where the corrugated pipe is connected to the sewer hole and toilet outlet. If you see leaks, you will have to remove the pipe and reinstall it, after first checking the correct installation and the integrity of the rubber cuffs. If there are no global leaks, but if there are a few drops of water at the junction of the corrugation and the toilet, there is no need to worry; this defect can subsequently be easily removed using silicone sealant. If there are no problems with the reliability of the joints, great, move on to the next stage.
6. We mark on the floor the places where the toilet will be fixed (there are special holes on the product for this).
7. We remove the corrugation from the outlet and put it aside for now. Make sure that it does not warp in the place where it connects to the sewer. We are also moving the toilet away for now.
8. In the places that we marked on the floor, we drill holes and install dowels in them.
9. We place the toilet on its side and lubricate its lower part around the perimeter with silicone sealant.
10. Then we turn it over to its normal position, put it in the right place and fix it with screws.
11. We check the stability again using the above method. If everything is in order, tighten the screws to the end and put decorative plugs on them.
12. We seal the gap formed between the floor and the toilet with waterproof sealant. cement based. Some people do this using the same silicone, but it will peel off pretty quickly because it doesn’t tolerate it very well. wet cleaning which is produced regularly.
13. Now we take the previously set aside end of the corrugated pipe, treat the rubber tip from the inside with silicone sealant and pull it onto the toilet pipe. If the corrugation requires stretching in length, then this should be done evenly, then you can avoid sagging.
14. We wait two hours, during which time the silicone should harden.
15. We install the tank and connect a water supply hose to it.
16. Now we check the quality of the installation. To do this, we drain it about three times, each time waiting for the tank to fill. We inspect all joints (both the corrugation and the water supply hose) for leaks.

If everything is in order and no leaks are observed, then the installation of the toilet using a corrugated pipe was completed successfully.

Installation with plastic elbow

The procedure is carried out almost the same as in the case of corrugation. You should take into account only those nuances that we mentioned above:

• the plastic knee does not bend;
• it must be installed perfectly to avoid distortions. Therefore, the location of the toilet will depend on the placement of the knee, and not vice versa;
• if the plastic pipe is too long, then simply cut it with any suitable tool;
• During the installation process, all joints are pre-lubricated with silicone-based sealant.

The rest of the procedure is no different from that described above.

Direct connection

The most reliable method of connecting a toilet to a sewer system is one that does not use pipes at all. In such cases, the toilet pipe is inserted directly into the sewer hole. Of course, for this to happen, the elements must fit together perfectly.

The installation procedure depends on the release form. Let's look at each option in more detail.

Vertical release

For such an installation you will need a special part - a flange. The procedure is as follows.

1. We try the flange on the floor, mark with a marker the places where the clamps will be located.
2. We remove the flange, drill holes in the marked places, and install dowels.
3. We put the flange in place and fix it with fasteners. We make sure that the axis of the fixing bolts is perpendicular to the bottom of the toilet bowl.
4. Lubricate the sealing collar with silicone.
5. We install the toilet on the flange and secure it with nuts.

Horizontal and oblique release

This installation is carried out according to the same principle as using corrugation. The only difference is that from the sewer drain hole there is a rigid structure. Moreover, during installation of the pipe into it, its elements should not become loose or move. Therefore, it is better to call for help from another person who will hold the structure during installation.

The other stages of the procedure are no different from those described above. We mark the fixation points on the floor, install and secure the toilet, insert the pipe into the drain, pre-lubricated with silicone, wait two hours and check the system for leaks.

That's all, Dear friends. Despite all the responsibility of the event, the work itself is not that difficult. To get even more full information For all the nuances of installing a toilet, you can read other articles on our portal, each of which describes in detail a specific step.

And also don’t forget to watch the video, the link to which we have attached to today’s material. This will help you remember exactly the order of work. The rest is up to you: a little effort and accuracy, and your bathroom will happily accept a new porcelain occupant. Good luck!

29009 0 21

Connecting the toilet to the sewer: 3 ways high-quality installation

In this article I want to talk about how you can connect the toilet to the sewer with your own hands. We will meet general rules installation of toilets, we will find out exactly what the connection looks like when various forms release, and study what is sold in plumbing stores auxiliary equipment for sealing connections.

General rules

Regardless of the type of toilet and the material of the sewer pipes, connecting the toilet to the sewer must be carried out in compliance with a number of simple rules:

• From toilet to toilet, the diameter of the pipes cannot decrease. But it can (and should) be increased by combining several sewer branches with different sources drains;
• Horizontal sections of pipes are laid with a constant slope. For the most common diameter of 110 mm optimal slope is 2 centimeters per linear meter;
• In horizontal sections, the pipe should be fastened in increments not exceeding 10 diameters to avoid sagging.

First of all, this requirement is relevant for plastic pipes.
At larger step After installing fasteners, within a year or two the pipe will sag, forming sections with a counter-slope.
Subsequently, each counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages: fat and suspended matter will accumulate there.

Vertical risers must be attached under the neck of each socket. Thus, we will prevent spontaneous undocking of connections;

• All connections (pipe to pipe, pipe to fitting, pipe to toilet) must be absolutely sealed. Besides Wastewater, their vapors are present in the sewerage system, and they do not ozone the air in residential premises;

• I strongly recommend assembling sewer turns using oblique tees and bends with an angle of 45 degrees. A 90-degree turn will make cleaning very difficult if clogged;
• In addition, to clear possible blockages, each turn is equipped with a tee or revision. The shorter the distance from them to the pipe bend, the more convenient cleaning will be.

Connection methods

On sale you can find toilets with releases of three different shapes:

1. Vertical release widely used in Stalin-era houses. Sewer drain from the outlet recessed into the floor it was connected to a riser under the ceiling of the lower floor;

Vertical outlet is popular among owners of private houses.
It allows you to completely hide sewer pipes if there is a basement in the house or a bathroom on the second or third floors.

1. Oblique release experienced its peak of popularity in the 60-80s. Its great advantage is its ability to transport wastewater even when the connection is completely depressurized. A toilet with an oblique outlet can be used by simply moving it to the riser and inserting the outlet into the socket;
2. Direct (horizontal) release allows you to install a plumbing fixture at a minimum distance from the wall, hiding all communications in it.

We have to figure out how to properly connect the toilet to the sewer in each specific case.

First: vertical release

A typical picture in a Stalinist toilet is a cast-iron socket, recessed into the floor flush with its surface. The toilet is mounted exactly above the socket. To seal the connection, a rubber cuff is used - a seal.

The connection is made in the following order:

1. The cast iron bell is cleared of debris. If necessary, the remains are cut out of it with a chisel or chisel. cement mortar and releasing the old toilet;
2. A rubber cuff - an adapter - is inserted into a clean socket;
3. The toilet is seated by releasing into the cuff and screwed to the floor with standard mounting screws.

How to connect a toilet with a vertical outlet, moving it horizontally?

If you want to do without chiseling the floor and moving the drain in the lower apartment, you will have to sacrifice 10-15 centimeters of the height of the room by raising the toilet on a pedestal. Fortunately, the height of the ceilings in Stalin buildings allows such liberties.

• For a displacement of 5 - 8 cm, an eccentric coupling is used;
• To move the toilet to a greater distance, a Z-shaped structure is assembled from a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and a pair of bends, which is connected to cast iron socket the already familiar rubber sealing coupling;
• Formwork is constructed around the eccentric or pipe and the podium is concreted. Its surface, taking into account the tile finishing, is brought to the level of the bell.

Second: oblique release

In the 90s, when I was a plumber, connecting a toilet with an oblique outlet to the sewer system was done quite primitively:

1. The socket of the cast iron half-bend was cleared of debris and old caulking;
2. A layer of cement paste (without adding sand) was laid on the floor, on which the toilet was installed;
3. The squeezed out excess cement paste was used to seal the socket of the half bend. The cement filled it to a depth of at least 2 centimeters.

This installation method is often practiced even now, but it is far from ideal, since it eliminates the possibility of dismantling the plumbing fixture to move it or clean it if large debris gets into the outlet. Then, in the 90s, the method was used due to the extreme shortage of tools and equipment in housing organizations.

In the current conditions, it is better to make the connection collapsible, since everything necessary for this is available for free sale.

• The toilet is attached to the floor using standard anchor screws. Cement, however, is also useful: a small amount of cement paste is pressed under the sole of the toilet along its circumference, compensating for uneven floors and evenly distributing pressure along the base;

Silicone sealant can be used instead of cement, but its elasticity is limited. heavy weight the owner can play a cruel joke on him.
Uneven load on uneven floor under certain conditions may cause the toilet seat to crack.

• To connect the outlet to the cast iron socket without displacement, the already familiar sealing coupling is used. You can ensure maximum tightness of its connection with the socket by applying outer surface couplings with universal or sanitary silicone sealant;

The photo shows the connection of an oblique outlet with a cast iron socket using a rubber collar and sealant.

• Cuffs slightly different from those described above in shape and appearance, are also used to connect an oblique outlet to the socket of a plastic pipe. They are also able to ensure the tightness of the connection between the outlet and the pipe without a socket. The sealant will not harm here either: it is applied both to the inner surface of the pipe and to the toilet outlet;

• Clutch - an eccentric compensates for a small horizontal or vertical displacement of the outlet;

Connection with vertical displacement performed by an eccentric coupling.

• Significant displacements are compensated by corrugation - a pipe made of corrugated PVC or polyethylene and rubber sealing cuffs at both ends. It allows you not only to move the plumbing fixture by a distance of up to 15 - 20 centimeters, but also to rotate it at an arbitrary angle.

If necessary, two corrugations can be connected in series; I once used this design to turn around the toilet in a service apartment, in which a monumental reconstruction of the sewage system was undesirable.

The corrugation must be installed so as to completely eliminate its sagging.
The reason has already been mentioned by me above: the counter-slope will become a place for dirt and debris to accumulate, stimulating the occurrence of blockages.

Finally, one more little trick related to connecting a toilet with an oblique outlet. After laying the tiles, the outlet often does not reach the socket and turns out to be too high from the floor. The problem is easily solved if you have at your disposal a piece of pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

A bell can be formed on a heated pipe by first stretching it over a liter glass jar.
It has the same cross-section as the toilet outlet.

Third: direct release

How to connect a toilet to the sewer if it is equipped with a direct outlet? If the outlet exactly matches the height and horizontal position with the bell, great. In this case, it is enough to seal the connection rubber cuff, seated on the sealant.

Silicone sealing in this case is mandatory precisely because of the horizontal position of the outlet: water will constantly stand on the connection and seep through any gap.

To compensate for minor displacements, a cuff that is already familiar to us is used - an eccentric.

Corrugation can be useful in this case too. It allows you to adapt the horizontal outlet to an oblique outlet in the apartment old building, unfold the toilet or install it with an offset of 15 - 20 centimeters.

When using corrugation, the toilet will move forward by 10 - 15 centimeters.

If there is a significant displacement, it is more convenient to connect the toilet to the riser with several outlets. They are installed in the same way as any other prefabricated section plastic sewer. It is better to connect the bends using sealant: even if the rubber ring seals dry out, silicone will prevent leaks.