It is much easier to heat a room with a low ceiling. This technique was often used in old houses. But this was not the only reason; another problem was the lack modern technologies according to the workpiece building materials. Often when performing repair work owners are interested in how to raise the ceiling in a house with minimal losses.

Why is the ceiling low

In order to properly approach the work of increasing the level of ceilings, it is important to know two more reasons why ceilings are low:

• inattentive approach when choosing logs;
• building shrinkage;
• uneven load distribution;
• the house was originally designed incorrectly.

When purchasing building materials, it is better to do this with your own tape measure. This way you will have the opportunity to check the compliance with the declared sizes. Often for the sake of savings or the desire to earn more, and sometimes simply due to negligence, the overall width can be reduced by a whole centimeter, which during assembly general design can result in 15 or even 20 cm.

Note! In the case where the building was built from timber or profiled logs, or without a foundation, it can experience significant shrinkage. In the case of rounded logs, this value can reach 10–15 cm. It happens that builders do not take this point into account and do not make a reserve, which subsequently leads to unpleasant consequences.

When designing a house, it is necessary to correctly approach the distribution of the load on the supporting beams and walls. In this case, the entire building will form a monolithic frame. It is important that all the material is from the same batch, then there will be a high probability that all the boards will behave the same.

Lifting methods

In most cases, the ceiling level can be raised without removing the roof. In other situations this cannot be avoided. Here are the methods that are used quite often:

• Lowering the floor. This option will not be feasible in all situations. If the house has no foundation at all or is not deep enough, this can lead to partial or complete destruction building. When applying this method, it is also necessary to analyze at what height the windows will be. They may have to be moved to a lower level.
• Changing the cladding method. A frequently used method. Suitable in most cases. At the right approach you can get a beautifully decorated ceiling.
• . It can be implemented in the case when the ceiling crossbars are not load-bearing and the roof rafters are not attached to them.
• Lifting the entire building. Will be relevant in a wooden house , when the entire building forms a monolithic structure of timber and can be raised without the consequences of warping or destruction of the walls.
• . This is a very non-recommended method, but it can still be done if all the rules are followed.

Note! No two buildings are completely identical. This means that you should approach the matter by analyzing general principles, not template solutions.

Preparatory work

Before choosing one of the methods listed above, you need to inspect the main components in a private house:

• Carefully inspect the foundation. Assess how deep it is into the ground. Is it a ribbon, or is it just a mound of cobblestones.
• Assess the condition of the walls. If they are made of wood, tap them to see if the beams have rotted in the middle.
• Go up to the attic. Look at the method used to line the ceiling. Were the rafter beams (crossbars) used or were the ceiling beams laid separately?
• Check that the roof deck is securely fastened.

Note! If possible, before starting work, draw and write down the course of action on a piece of paper. This will give an opportunity the best way analyze all the advantages and difficulties.

If, after inspection, you come to the conclusion that the foundation has high strength and is made well, then you can go this route.

• If the house is made of logs, then this means that the logs are fixed between the first and second crown. The main task will be to lower them directly to the foundation or a little lower. In this way we will be able to gain about 20 cm.
• We empty our premises of all furniture and clean it.
• Using a nail puller, remove the boards that form the flooring. Don't rush to throw them away. If they are oak or simply in good condition, they may still be useful.

• Assess the condition of the lag. See if they are provided for the base only in this room or if they continue into the next room.
• We cut the logs using a hacksaw, reciprocating saw or chain saw. Be careful, sometimes there may be nails.
• We seal the cracks and openings that remain in the walls after removing the beams.
• We inspect and clean the space that has become available.
• We move the boards to the level below. To do this, if necessary, it is important to make openings for the strips in the casing. Afterwards they are inserted and fixed (you can use metal corners).
• If the floor has not been insulated, then if there is space below, you can fill perpendicular strips on which mineral wool (it will need to be covered with film) or polystyrene foam can be laid.
• If the floor boards were in good condition, they can be used again to cover the floor. After this, everything will need to be cleaned, primed and painted.

If the operations are not carried out in a house made of timber, then after removing flooring, you may have to go deeper into the ground to achieve the desired result.

• When performing such actions, you lose a significant layer that served as insulation. Now we need to compensate for this. The sampling should be made taking into account the fact that a layer of insulation will be laid. It will consist of waterproofing, expanded clay and possibly expanded polystyrene. It is better to fill the screed on top.
• Do not forget that the walls are exposed and cold bridges may appear. To compensate for them, you can lay waterproofing and damper tape even before completing the floor insulation layer. It should extend above the future screed. Its excess is cut off with a knife.

If, having been in the attic, you noticed that the ceiling consists of boards that are stuffed onto the lower part of the beams, it’s simple perfect option, which is the easiest to fix.

• It is better to empty the room completely, without trying to cover the furniture, because it can still be accidentally damaged.
• We film everything decorative finishing from the ceiling.
• We remove the layer of boards and insulation that may be present there.
• If the boards are in good condition, they can be reused.
• We inspect the condition of the beams. They can be cleaned and coated with an antiseptic if required.
• We transfer the hemmed boards from the bottom of the beams to the top. This way we will gain about 20 cm of space. But the floor structure will now be visible.
• If the surface of the floor beams has an unpresentable appearance and coating with stain will no longer help, then you can go another way. Using wooden lining or drywall, we sew them up and paint them the color of wood.
• Next, finishing work is carried out.

Usually, when building houses, separate ceilings are laid ceiling beams, which are not connected to the roof structure. If this is the case in your case, then you can do the following:

• We clean out the attic space and remove all the sheathing from the ceiling.
• We go back into the room and make supports for the existing ceiling beams. They can be tied to tie rods (cross bars of trusses). Before performing this operation, it is very important to correctly calculate the maximum supported weight.
• Once the beam has been fixed, it can be cut using a reciprocating saw or chainsaw. When both ends are released, it simply falls to the ground.
• We do this with each of the crossbars.
• After the ceiling space is cleared, you can raise the partitions using logs.
• The ceiling sheathing is tied to the truss beams. In this way you can raise the ceiling by several tens of centimeters.
• If this does not seem enough, then you can do differently. When done correctly, there is an advantage to transferring puffs. Before cutting off the old ones, new ones are made, which are located a little higher. The entire structure is fixed and, if necessary, additional struts and spacers are added. Next, we attach the ceiling to the new beams.

Lifting the entire building

It is best to have several jacks before you use this method. Their load capacity should be from 5 tons. In simultaneous lifting there is a danger of losing the reference point, so it is important to consider preventing horizontal displacement.

• Determine how high you want to raise the building.
• Divide this value by 5 cm - this is how much better it is to lift in one approach. It is possible to a lower height, but not to a higher one.
• Make supports according to the number of approaches.
• Determine the support points for the jacks.
• Before starting work, make sure once again that the walls are properly bandaged and the roof is fixed.
• The lifting must be done synchronously.
• As soon as the next wedge is placed, it must be fixed to the previous one using self-tapping screws so that they do not move apart.
• Once the desired height is reached, the jacks are loosened and everything remains on supports.
• Now you can add several crowns to the resulting space. Instead of crowns, you can pour the foundation to the planned level.
• Next comes hydro- and thermal insulation. The building is again raised slightly, the supports are removed, after which it sits in the place intended for it.

Note! Before performing all operations, calculate the mass of the house. To do this, you need to multiply the volume of the material by its density. The volume is obtained by multiplying the width by the length and height, then the values ​​for each wall are added and added to the approximate weight of the roof.

This option can be carried out if the supporting part of the roof is in close to ideal condition.

• Determine how high you want to raise the roof.
• Calculate the total weight of the roof structure.
• Now we need to strengthen the perimeter. For this purpose, a channel of series no lower than 14U is used. It is necessary to build a frame from it that will connect the entire structure.
• The base is secured to the beam using self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 10 mm and a length of at least 10 cm.
• If necessary, add additional cross members between the trusses.
• Now you need to completely disassemble the ceiling to install the support legs.
• The supporting legs are made of a cross-shaped base. For this, a 12U channel is used. Four vertical strips of the same material are welded to the base. The distance between them should be such that the jack can fit inside. They are connected using perpendicular crossbars. Additionally, struts are installed.
• The stands are located at the support points. Lifting is carried out using one jack in increments of 5 cm.
• When the roof is raised to the desired height, additional crowns are installed in the case of wooden building or the armored belt is filled.
• Once the roof support is ready, it can be installed in its proper place.

Note! Carry out work only in calm weather, because there is a danger of collapse due to gusts of wind.

This article aims to provide a basic understanding of possible ways problem solution. In each specific situation their own difficulties arise and are born unique ideas. Share your solutions in the comments. We are always happy to receive new offers!

Video

This video shows how to lift a private house:

An additional way to increase living space is to install an attic. However, this process does not always happen quickly. If the roof is low, it becomes necessary to adjust it. Learn about the technology of raising the roof of a house and get valuable advice from experts.

Technology and methods of raising the roof with your own hands: making an attic under the roof

Before starting to dismantle the roof, assess its general condition and draw up a preliminary action plan. First of all, any roof needs additional strengthening. For these purposes, we recommend using a metal channel frame.

Use reinforcing bars to make screw braces. Guide rails further increase the strength of the structure and prevent the roof from moving when lifted.

To fix the channel on the beam, stock up on screws, the length of which is 100 mm and the diameter is 10 mm. The central channel is fixed on the beam; additionally, metal ears are welded onto them. With the help of a channel, the roof is strengthened and held firmly when lifted.

The next stage is the installation of lifting legs. With their help, easy lifting is ensured and roof displacement is prevented. The total mass of the supporting legs sometimes exceeds one and a half tons. A standard roof will require a minimum of four legs, each weighing more than three hundred kilograms. To connect the legs together, a horizontal channel is used, the interval between the channels is 25 cm.

By following the technology for installing these reinforcing structures, the roof will acquire the necessary strength, which will ensure its integrity during the lifting process. However, before installing the channel, a calculation is made total mass roof and wind load on its surface in a particular climatic region. Channel legs are installed exclusively on load-bearing walls, in order to avoid destruction of the house structures, under the weight of the weight of these elements.

In the process of lifting the roof with your own hands, you will need tools in the form of:

• jack with additional hydraulics;
• metal fittings;
• reinforced concrete pillars;
• several steel strips;
• nail puller and hammer;
• channels;
• pipes of certain parameters.

After finishing preparatory work start raising the roof. For these purposes, stock up on a hydraulic version of the jack that can withstand a weight of more than ten tons. It is possible to use two jacks, providing better structural stability and maximum distribution total weight. When raising the roof, use special underlays that improve work safety. To make them, use a channel or steel pipe with a square section. The interval between the crossbars is about twenty-five centimeters. Each support is equipped with at least twelve such parts.

The roof is raised evenly from each point. In one pass, a maximum of five centimeters of the roof is lifted. Gradually raising each corner, they reach a height of twenty-five centimeters. The cross members are only installed on the supporting components once this height has been reached. After raising the roof by 180 cm, brick laying for the external walls begins. It will take at least three days to raise the roof to such a height. Masonry is carried out with the obligatory use of a reinforcing belt. After the roof is raised, the jack is also raised. To create a full-fledged attic, you will need to raise the roof by at least 280 cm. This work is completed in two weeks. All free space after raising the roof, it is immediately filled with walls made of brick.

After raising the roof and installing the walls, window openings are formed, the under-roof space is insulated and waterproofed. Most often, insulation is performed using mineral wool. This material has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. Waterproofing covers the insulation both from the outside and from the inside. To achieve a high thermal and waterproofing effect, use special membrane films. The attic is arranged like a multi-layer cake, including vapor barrier material, waterproofing, thermal insulation, roofing materials and interior decoration. To avoid the appearance of mold and mildew, a high-quality ventilation system. The raised roof is equipped with vertical window structures.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the option of raising the roof to increase the height of the ceilings in small house. During the work process you will need:

• at least three oil jacks with high lifting capacity;
• several wooden beams, steel channels and pipes;
• rigid floor pads that evenly distribute the load;
• gaskets installed under the beams when raising the roof;
• material for raising walls: brick, stone.

On initial stage Jacks are installed under the ceiling beams. Remove furniture from the room or cover it first plastic film, since this process is quite dusty.

Start work from the corners, install the jack in relation to the location of the power beams. Install the channel on the desired height. Install a lining between the beam and the channel to prevent destruction ceiling structure. Gradually raise the beam. Make sure that the channel is located strictly in the center of the jack. Repeat these same steps with each jack. When each device is raised 5 cm, begin the next stage of lifting. Try to avoid distortions of the roof during work. Next, loosen and move the jacks to the next beams. Place spacers between the beams and the ceiling. To lift the first and last beams, use an extended shoulder, since these elements are most often found in the wall. To avoid damage to the floor, install heavy-duty distribution gaskets between the roof and walls.

Roof of the house photo:

Next comes the process of fixing the roof at the desired height. To do this, build supports under it. Made of brick and concrete mortar. Particular difficulties arise with window openings that need additional reinforcement. Try to work as quickly as possible, since temporary supports are a rather shaky structure that is not resistant to strong winds.

DIY attic on the roof of the house

The main function of the roof is to protect the entire house from precipitation, so this structure must be strong, reliable and compact. The process of constructing an attic on the roof is quite complex, but quite realistic. Thus, the living space increases by one and a half times.

Before starting the reconstruction, create a project for the attic on the roof. Decide on the type of roof, most often mansard roof is gable, with a triangular frame structure. As a base for each truss, a beam on the ceiling resting on the wall is used. To reconstruct the roof for a living space, the structural and strength diagram of the supporting elements is changed.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the options for converting an attic into an attic. The first of them is to strengthen the rafters and floor beams using overlays and previously connected racks. To fix the puffs, struts and reinforced rafters are used.

If the trusses are located quite often in the attic space, the load from the beams is transferred to the roof more evenly. After reconstruction of the structural and strength characteristics of the attic, the load on the floor increases, as the mass from the furniture and people on the floor is added. attic floor. Therefore, we recommend installing additional I-beams with wooden partitions.

Please note that reworking tuyeres on the ceiling is a consistent and gradual process. If the technology is not followed, there is a risk of deformation and damage to the roof. After redoing the trusses, decide on the installation location of the window openings and its insulation.

The second option for creating an attic from an attic - a peaked roof is distinguished by the presence of central posts with two struts. To strengthen the structure, rafters and ceiling beams with a double cross-section are used.

This is followed by fixing the tension on the rafters and racks, and the inclined beams redistribute the total load. Next comes the process of removing the lower parts of the supports and racks and freeing up space for the attic space. After completion of the preparatory work, insulation and external finishing attics.

The construction of a house roof with gentle slopes implies an increase in the ceiling space due to the lower room. This process quite complex and lengthy. To carry it out, you need to disassemble the ceiling and fix the beams with a new finished floor on its lower part. When choosing the diameter of the cross beams, be guided by individual calculations and the characteristics of the room.

In any case, the under-roof space needs high-quality thermal insulation and protection from external factors environment. A comfortable ceiling height in the attic should be at least 220 cm. Heat and sound insulation is carried out using mineral wool insulation laid between the rafters and beams. For the manufacture of frame partitions in the attic they use lightweight steel frame, on which the drywall and subsequent finishing are fixed.

Methods for insulating an attic on the roof

High-quality roof insulation reduces heating costs attic room and improves the comfort of your stay. There are several ways to insulate an attic. The most popular of them are fiberglass and mineral wool insulation.

The first option has an affordable price, among additional benefits note:

• absence of toxic substances;
• good thermal insulation properties;
• moisture resistance;
• long service life.

In addition, glass wool has certain disadvantages. One of them is the need to work in special clothing and protect the insulation with additional films. Since the material contains a large number of fine dust that affects the mucous membranes of the eyes, working with this material requires the use of additional protective equipment in the form of respirators and special clothing. In addition, glass wool is inconvenient for insulating inclined surfaces, since it deforms over time and does not provide the necessary tightness.

The second option - mineral stone basalt wool, has a higher cost, which is fully covered by performance characteristics. Mineral wool is available in various variations: roll or slab. The material fits perfectly on any surface, tightly connecting to them. Among other advantages we note:

• resistance to temperature fluctuations;
• inedibility by rodents;
• ensuring high-quality thermal insulation;
• ease of installation;
• variety of shapes and options;
• excellent performance characteristics, service life exceeds twenty years, subject to installation technology.

However, mineral wool requires additional waterproofing, since this material is not resistant to moisture and is destroyed under its influence.

Initially, insulation of structures around the perimeter of the attic is carried out. On next stage The room is waterproofed and a vapor barrier with a ventilation gap is installed.

A layer of insulation is laid on the roof, ceilings and partitions. If there is a pediment, it is also subject to insulation. Roof slopes have a certain slope, which means the insulation must completely follow their shape, tightly connecting to the structure.

Therefore, to insulate these structures, we recommend using slab versions of mineral wool material. Additional fixation of the insulation is provided by the lathing. The insulation should fit tightly to the wall. Otherwise, the quality of thermal insulation decreases.

To insulate the floor in the attic, three material options are used:

• if there are reinforced concrete floors, we recommend using expanded polystyrene, which, in addition to excellent thermal insulation, protects the lower floor from noise;
• in the presence of wooden floors on reinforced concrete floors, use basalt wool, with equipped corner gaps;
• if you have wooden floors, use any type of insulation with an additional waterproofing layer.

Flat Smooth surface - perfect place for use roll insulation, to connect the material together, use a special tape.

Raising the roof video:

However, in search of additional residential square meters, many decide to raise the roof. It’s worth saying right away that this work process is quite complex and requires special equipment. But on the other hand, if you wish, it is quite possible to cope with the work yourself. This article will discuss how to raise the roof of a house.

Before raising the roof, you should thorough preparation. First, make sure that the foundation of the house is secure. If not, then work must be done to strengthen it. For this purpose, take a 14U channel. In addition, you need to purchase metal rods Ø14 mm.

Metal ears should be welded to the channels, through which the bolted connection. If we talk about transverse channels, then their number should be half as much. The resulting structure will be quite capable of supporting the roof. In general, the channels will have heavy weight, about 2 tons. Therefore, all fastenings and connections must be as reliable as possible.

Installing support legs will reduce the likelihood of the roof moving to the side. The supporting legs will serve as guides. They are made from 12U channel, 4 pieces are enough. They are connected by horizontal channels 8U. Legs weighing 350 kg each are also used, which are connected horizontally by channels. For an inclined spacer at 45°, a 10U channel should be used. The length of the selected channel will directly depend on the height to which the roof will be raised.

Provided that you use a material with these parameters, the foundation for holding the roof will be truly powerful and stable. Moreover, it will be able to withstand wind loads of up to 73 m/sec and support a weight of up to 100 tons. With all this, there is a small margin of safety. Such supports are mainly located on load-bearing walls, and also on partitions, the thickness of which is half a brick.

If 2 jacks are used, there is always a risk that the roof will lose its stability, so be extremely careful.

Also be sure to select square pipe, which will be used as a substrate between the crossbars. So, the work looks like this:

• At each point we begin to raise the roof one by one. You can lift up to 50mm in height at a time.
• So, going around the circle, when the height reaches 250 mm, weld the cross members to the supports.
• When the roof is raised by 1850 mm, masonry should be carried out in parallel outer wall. But first fill the armored belt, and then lay the brick on it.

If you plan to make a full floor, then the roof will have to be raised to 2870 mm. On average, this may take about 12 days.

When the roof is completely in its new place, be sure to complete the brick laying. As for the under-roof space, a number of works should be carried out, which include thermal insulation. For this you can use mineral wool. Depending on the roofing material, the thickness is determined air gap between it and the thermal insulation. The insulation is also protected by a membrane film. In general, a roofing cake should be made, which also includes vapor barrier and waterproofing.

The use of this technology is also possible in a wooden house. We and our readers are very interested to know whether you have practice in performing this work. If yes, then be sure to share your experience, because practice is much more effective than theory.

Video

How to raise the ceiling in a house will be discussed in the video:

Old buildings are low ceilings. If you are the owner of such a house and want to increase the height of the ceilings, you do not have to dismantle the roof - you can raise it yourself. Our master class will help you with this.

Tools and materials for work

We will need:

• at least three jacks (preferably oil) with a lifting capacity of 5 tons;
• the corresponding number of compression-resistant wooden beams, metal channels (optimally) or pipes of suitable length;
• the corresponding number of rigid floor pads, which will redistribute the point load from the jack to the area load (thick boards, pieces of channel, etc.);
• cushioning material that will be placed under beams and jacks during the process of raising the roof (cutting boards, bricks, etc.): their quantity must be calculated so that it is enough for all beams on both sides to the full height of the roof;
• the material from which the walls will be raised (brick, shell rock, adobe, etc.), as well as mortars(sand, clay, cement, etc.): their quantity must be calculated depending on the length of the walls and the height to which the roof will rise.

So, let's begin

As part of the first stage of work, it is necessary to adjust the jacks to the ceiling beams. The beams may be initially visible or sewn up from below, in which case you need to calculate their position (it corresponds to the location power frame roofs) and mark on the inside of the walls so that you know in which places to install the jacks. There will be a lot of dust during the process, so the furniture should be covered or removed from the room.

We start from the corner. We install the jack on the distribution gasket strictly under the beam and slightly wedge the channel between the beam and the jack, extending the jack rod. The jack should still have a travel reserve of 5-10 centimeters for the upcoming lift. Next, you need to make sure that the channel is located vertically in all planes. If necessary, you can loosen the jack, adjust the channel and lightly wedge it again.

If you do not plan to sew up the beams in the future, place cushioning material between the channel and the beam to prevent damage to the beam. Now you can try to carefully lift the beam. Monitor the relative position of the jack and the channel. If you see that a break is occurring at the point of their contact, loosen the jack and move it slightly towards inner side fracture Do not ignore this break - under increasing load during lifting, the channel can jump out of the connection, which can lead to injury. If there is no break, extend the jack rod no more than 5 centimeters and secure this position by placing a spacer between the beam and the wall. Do not loosen the jack.

Repeat the same operation with all jacks on one side of the house.

The more jacks you have, the better - you'll save time on reinstalling them.

When all the jacks are raised by 5 centimeters, you can start again from the first to the penultimate one, raising them another 5 centimeters and increasing the thickness of the spacers between the beam and the wall. It’s not worth raising it any higher yet: if there is a large distortion, the roof may “move out” during the process of raising the opposite side.

Next, we weaken and rearrange all the jacks under the next beams, except for the last one, raised by 5 centimeters. We repeat the whole process from the beginning. When all the beams on one side are raised by 10 centimeters and spacers are placed under them, we move to the other side of the house and raise them in the same way. From this side you can raise it by 15-20 centimeters, and we also do all further lifts to the required height. In this way, the slight displacement that occurs when the roof is skewing will be compensated.

Additional complications

The first and last beams are usually hidden by the wall, so they will need to be lifted manually using an enlarged arm. It will be much easier to do this when the second and penultimate beams of the house are already raised by 5 centimeters.

The distribution gasket under the jack must be strong enough to avoid damage to the floor covering.

Fix the roof at the required height

When the beam is raised to the required height, a support must be erected under it. Even if you use clay when laying openings, it is better to use mortar to build supports, since it dries faster and acquires the necessary strength. The support will have to be erected at the moment when the beam rests on the raised jack; after the jack is loosened, the load will immediately fall on the support - the freshly laid clay at this moment will most likely cause subsidence.

Particularly difficult will be the sections of the wall where the beams lie above the window openings. You will probably want to increase the height of the windows, which will require raising the lintels and filling in the voids while the beams are resting on the jacks.

Try to organize the entire process efficiently so that it takes as little time as possible. While the roof stands on temporary supports, it is a rather shaky structure - rush strong wind can ruin the result of your work.

Once the interior masonry has been laid and the roof is firmly in place, the outer masonry can be raised.

Since lifting and repairing a roof is a rather labor-intensive task, you should immediately think about updating the roof so that this issue no longer bothers you.

A common problem for many homes old building- very low ceilings. Once upon a time, houses were built this way to save money, and many years of shrinkage had an effect.

What to do if low ceilings make you feel cramped? How to raise ceilings in wooden houses?

The main problem of the old wooden houses- not disrepair, but low ceilings

Removing the hemmed ceiling

Look at your ceiling. Is it flat? You can't see the ceiling beams, can you? But they exist.

This means that the ceiling is hemmed underneath them. On the attic side there can be flooring along the top side of the beams. Or maybe not. In any case, 10-20 centimeters of height (depending on the thickness of the beams) can be gained by simply removing the lining from below.

Of course, in this case you will need a good-quality flooring on top without cracks through which all sorts of unpleasant-tasting substances from the attic will start pouring into your plate.

Beams can easily be integrated into the design of the room, creating a color contrast between them and the ceiling. Dark beams against a white glossy background look very impressive.

Advice: if the surface of the beams has such an irregular geometry that it clearly does not fit into the design of the room, darker colors will help.

Beams covered with the same PVC panels as the ceiling will not look very nice; but MDF panels imitating the texture of oak or ash will suit the yard.

Advantages of the method

The walls of the house are not damaged, the time and money required are small.

Flaws

The clearance between the floor and the underside of the joists is not much different from what it was. Visually, the space will noticeably expand; however, if you are very tall and constantly hit your head in other rooms, the situation will change slightly.

Lowering the floor beams

In many mid-century houses, the floor beams are embedded between the first and second crowns.

And this fact can be used for our purposes:

• We remove the flooring;
• We cut out the beams along the walls;
• We lay the logs directly on the foundation;
• We lay board, plywood or OSB.

Advantages

There is not much more work here than in the first case. And the effect is already more significant: the floor will drop almost to the crown.

Flaws

The window openings and door will be noticeably higher than usual.

We remove the ceiling beams and hem them along the rafters

If the roof is done correctly, that is, it has both ceiling and rafter beams, a noticeable distance can be gained from the difference in height between them.

• We embroider the ceiling;
• We cut off the ceiling beams along the walls;
• We hem the ceiling along the rafter beams.

Advantages

Again, there is a noticeable and real increase in the volume of the room. The ceiling height in a wooden house will increase exactly by the difference between the two sets of beams.

Flaws

The thermal insulation of the house will deteriorate somewhat.

Please note: no one is stopping you, however, from improving the thermal insulation of the ceiling by laying mineral wool on the attic side.

We lower the floor below the strip foundation

• We remove the flooring;
• We cut off the floor beams resting on the foundation.
• Carefully, so as not to disturb the foundation of the walls, we deepen the floor, removing excess soil and bedding. Don't get carried away: if you try to dig below the foundation, it is almost guaranteed to move. With obvious consequences for the walls.
• We re-fill with crushed stone, reinforce and pour a new foundation under new level floor beams;
• We lay the beams and re-lay the floor.

Space inside strip foundation- not only thermal insulation from the ground, but also extra centimeters of height

Advantages

The gain in height can be quite large: everything depends only on the height of the foundation of your house.

Flaws

• Large amount of work;
• Danger of soil movement under the foundation during deepening;
• Windows and doors will again be much higher than usual.

Removing the roof

For houses small area the most obvious way will not be overly labor-intensive:

• We disassemble the roof;
• We remove the beams;
• Add one or two crowns;
• We are installing a new floor and a new roof.

Advantages

We get more high ceilings without any reservations: windows and doors remain at the usual level, the actual height of the room increases noticeably. As a bonus, the roof was re-roofed and rotten beams and rafters were replaced.

Flaws

Even for a small house, the amount of work will be quite significant. In addition, the house will spend some time without a roof at all - you will have to monitor the weather, choosing sunny days.

Raising the house on jacks

Don't want to take the roof apart? You can do the opposite - raise the house, leaving the roof in the same place.

How to increase the ceiling height by raising the entire house on jacks?

1. Estimate the approximate weight of the house. The volume of walls and ceilings can be estimated by multiplying the height and width of each wall (or ceiling) by its average thickness. The density of dry wood is approximately 500 kg/m3.

Advice: for old and not very dry logs or timber, however, it is better to proceed from 800 kg/m3. If you miss by a wide margin, nothing bad will happen.

1. Stock up the right amount hydraulic jacks. You can focus on the carrying capacity of powerful specimens of approximately 5 tons.
   The ideal option is when the entire house is lifted simultaneously and evenly, then there is less chance of damage interior decoration Houses.
2. If the inside of the house is not finished, you can get by with one or two jacks on each corner. Of course, you will have to raise the house little by little, using stands for crowns.
3. Is the house raised to the required height and standing on supports? Now we put on one or two more crowns. It doesn't have to be logs - you can use timber. You can not add crowns at all, but raise the foundation and insulate it.
4. Then we again slightly raise the house on jacks and remove the supports.

The main thing is not to rush and avoid distortions

Advantages

With careful lifting, the roof and walls do not suffer at all. The house just gets taller.

Flaws

And here the window and door openings go up from the usual level.

Conclusion

As you can see, there are a lot of ways. Which one will be the least labor-intensive for you - decide for yourself. Good luck!