Take a look at the picture below. On the left is the kitchen in the “Khrushchev” (aka “ Khrushchev refrigerator"), a panel house of the infamous 464 project. On the right is the same renovated one. It is quite possible for a non-professional builder to do such a kitchen renovation with his own hands alone, with occasional little help from family members. The total cost of the work, starting with the removal of the previous “junk”, is approximately two monthly salaries, in parts as the work is completed; Repair duration is 3.5 months, on weekends and evenings. You will need to turn off the electricity in the kitchen twice for an hour and a half, and you will have to cook food on the electric stove four times over the course of 3-7 days, and wash the dishes in the bathroom.

Photo: Kitchen in Khrushchev before and after renovation

But before you say, like Gagarin: “Let’s go!”, it will take another three months of thinking, meetings and debates. A kitchen is a very difficult object to renovate, and its modern renovation, which is also long-lasting and inexpensive, must be thought out to the smallest detail. We will try to help our readers with this.

What are the difficulties?

When preparing a kitchen renovation, you need to always remember the following features premises:

• High humidity– fumes from cooking and/or washing.
• Fever.
• Availability of powerful heat sources: The stove alone provides more than 10 kW of heating power.
• Aggressive atmosphere– during cooking, fat, its hydrolysis products during frying, and other volatile substances from foods also evaporate.
• Sharp fluctuations in the above factors; this “hits” decoration and furniture harder than their consistently high values.
• Increased requirements for room hygiene: a coating of organic matter and its accumulation in nooks and crannies creates favorable conditions for the proliferation of microorganisms, especially in warm, humid air.
• Availability of gas appliances; need to Special attention pay attention to ventilation.
• High room utilization: The occupancy rate and habitability of the kitchen is higher than that of any other room.
• Small room area and low ceiling, if this simple kitchen in a typical house.
• Constant indoor circulation fragile, breakable and dirty items.

Stages of the long journey

Where to start renovating a kitchen? What to do first and what to do next? When to purchase materials and how to distribute expenses Money? We will briefly describe the stages, and then give explanations for each point.

1. Measurement and inspection of the condition of the premises;
2. Development of equipment layout;
3. Development of design, furniture plan and final selection of furniture;
4. Cleaning the premises;
5. Cleaning walls, ceilings, floors;
6. Inspection and repair of the base floor;
7. Audit and basic repair ceiling;
8. Re-laying of communications;
9. Improvement of ventilation;
10. Replacement of windows and doors;
11. Ceiling finishing;
12. Wall decoration;
13. Flooring;
14. Installation of skirting boards;
15. Installation of equipment;
16. Furnishings;
17. A ceremonial banquet, if you still have strength left.

The specified work will have to be completed in full, possibly with unforeseen complications, if the kitchen is being renovated in a Khrushchev-era building. In older or newer homes, some steps, especially on the ceiling and floor, will be easier. But still, kitchen renovation is the limit of complexity and labor intensity for home handyman, therefore, after reading the article, think carefully: is it possible? Isn’t it better to stretch yourself financially and entrust this matter to professionals?

Measurement and revision

The following dimensions need to be taken:

• Length Width Height.
• Window and door - dimensions of OPENINGS and distance from walls, ceiling, floor (for windows).
• Mezzanine - dimensions, location, material.
• Rosette groups (group) – distance from the floor and walls.
• Water supply and sewerage are the same.
• Gas riser is the same.
• Ventilation vent - the same, plus a revision of the ventilation device, see below.
• Cornices, stucco molding, projections of floor slabs, if any - the same.

The measurement accuracy is no worse than 0.5 cm. Repairing a small kitchen must be done according to an exact plan, see below. Otherwise, an accumulating error may ultimately result in a door that won’t close, or dishes that are constantly accidentally swept onto the floor by your elbow, or some other irreparable inconvenience.

When inspecting the ventilation device, it is necessary to determine by external inspection and/or a thin flexible rod whether the building design provides for a separate ventilation duct for the kitchen. If the vent is on a vertical box in the wall, then yes, and that’s good. If the ventilation duct goes towards the bathroom and toilet, this is not very good, but it can be fixed, see below.

Planning and project

As a result of the procedures described below, you should have a plan for placing furniture and equipment in the kitchen, see figure:

Traditional Kitchen Equipment Plan

Furniture must be pre-selected in advance and its exact dimensions taken on site from the seller or taken from the catalog. In order not to draw and redraw on whatman paper or toil through 3D graphics or CAD systems, we recommend the following method:

1. From cardboard, to scale, we glue a box without a lid, cut a window and a door in the walls.
2. We cut cubes and polyhedrons from polystyrene foam, also to scale, corresponding to the furniture and equipment; We mark where things are with inscriptions or roughly draw the front panels on the foam with a marker.
3. We play with cubes until we get an acceptable option. We stick the model to the walls of the box with pieces of plasticine or chewed gum.
4. We simulate natural light with an LED flashlight. By moving it, you can display the course of the Sun in different time of the year. To simulate cloudy weather, cover the flashlight aperture with a piece of thin paper.
5. Upon receipt of a satisfactory layout based on the known dimensions of the models, we build a plan, on paper or on a computer. In the latter case, it is enough to spend 2-3 hours in CorelDraw, and developing a layout layout in 3D requires at least a day of work by an experienced designer.

The main principle of kitchen layout is a triangle of functionality: stove, sink, refrigerator. Its sides should be approximately equal in length, and no more than 6 feet (1.85 m) each.

The planning sequence is as follows:

• Communications;
• Equipment;
• Furniture.

Video: example of a small kitchen project

Communications

The main problem here is to remove the ugly gas drop from the riser along the wall. Fortunately, it is now possible to connect gas appliances with flexible hoses, and gas workers, as soon as you show them at least a photo, most often meet them halfway and issue a permit without delay - such fruits of constructivism from the era of the unforgettable Nikita Sergeevich are an eyesore and a headache for them.

Warning: Under no circumstances should you carry out work on gas yourself! You need a permit and a specialized team: you will have to cut and weld gas pipes!

When planning, you need to clearly remember: the permissible length of flexible gas hoses is 4 m; water and sewer pipes - 1.5 m. Bending of rigid sewer pipes in horizontal plane unacceptable; corrugated bends - let's say one-time at least 120 degrees.

If you have a kitchen with a gas heater, then “on the sly” it is highly advisable to immediately obtain permission to move and replace it. You can specify any location according to the preliminary plan; they won’t measure down to the millimeter later.

Gas hoses and pipes should be accessible for inspection, but this does not mean that they should be displayed in plain sight. It is quite acceptable to place them behind furniture without back walls (open the doors and you can see) or behind a washing machine on wheels that can be easily rolled out. Hoses behind a washing machine that sits firmly on the floor may cause a complaint from the gas service.

In Khrushchev kitchens, as a rule, there was initially only one socket on the wall farthest from the stove. Of course, you also need a socket group above the cutting table, so when planning you need to provide a separate branch of wiring to it. It is also advisable, instead of the standard dose (electrical distribution box; kitchens always have one) for the kitchen as a whole, the washing machine and the electric boiler, if there is one. This will require turning off the electricity in the apartment twice for a short time; Wiring for additional sockets is laid during the work on the walls and ceiling.

Equipment

Stove, hood, ventilation

A stove with a hood is a stumbling block when renovating a kitchen: it can disrupt ventilation for both you and your neighbors. A hood with air recirculation and a carbon filter is not a solution: odors still seep through it, and the disposable and not very cheap filter needs to be changed periodically.

The exit is a hood with a reusable (washable) aluminum grease filter and exhaust into the house ventilation. This will require an additional ventilation vent. Actually, this is already a redevelopment, and permission is needed, but this is exactly the case when it is possible, if you are careful. The main thing is not to create a vent for anyone from the ventilation and to prevent the ventilation duct from becoming clogged with construction debris.

If the kitchen has a separate ventilation duct, then the vent for the hood should be made BELOW the main one (on the right in the figure). There is good draft in such passages, and blowing from a hood with a fan of up to 65 W will only improve the standard ventilation. At the same time, we get rid of the exhaust pipe (the lower the vent for the hood, the better) and free up space on the wall.

Warning: but remember - under no circumstances should you run the exhausts of the hood and gas boiler into the same ventilation passage! Here you are no longer risking fines and sanctions, but your life!

If the ventilation of the kitchen and the bathroom is connected to a common ventilation line (this is in the same 464 project, so that its creators have neither a bottom nor a tire), then the vent for the hood must be made FURTHER DOWN THE AIR FLOW, and as far as possible, in the figure on the right.

The next task is to break through the new vent cleanly, “without noise and dust.” This is done as follows:

• In the center of the cut-out area, drill a hole through and drive a self-tapping screw into the dowel; fastener size – any. We do not tighten the self-tapping screw completely.
• We tie a twine to the protruding head of the self-tapping screw, and attach its other end higher to the ceiling or furniture.
• Along the contour of the future vent, using a 4-6 mm stone drill, holes are drilled “to the point of piercing” after 5-10 mm. It is advisable to immediately drill the contour of the hood pipe according to the template.
• Using a narrow chisel or a special chisel for cutting grooves - a cross-cutting tool - we cut off the jumpers between the holes to 1-1.5 cm in depth.
• Use a vacuum cleaner, always with a dust collector, to suck out the groove.
• We repeat the procedure until the cut piece hangs on the twine; then we take it out - the clean vent is ready.
• About how to further install the hood -.

Notes:

1. You don’t have to buy a dust collector - a 2-3 liter jar with a sealed lid makes an excellent homemade one, see the picture above. Hoses – garden PVC diameter on the inside not less than 20 mm.
2. It is easier and cleaner to carve with a cross-section than with a chisel or regular chisel. The tool is specific, they don’t offer it for rent, but it’s inexpensive and will come in handy later on the farm.

Off topic note: It’s funny, but the tricks described are known not from construction practice, but from their criminal practice. A piece of the wall was cleanly removed by the characters of the famous film “All In,” and with the help of a dust collector, a large Amsterdam jewelry company was completely robbed several decades ago. The accomplice inside had a hose pushed through the vent. Completely legal window washers, called by the owners, were working on the façade, while in their van, meanwhile, a powerful industrial vacuum cleaner was working just as hard.

Stove, boiler and refrigerator

According to the operating rules for gas appliances, they must be located no closer than 80 cm from each other, and in the case of a stove with a boiler, this requirement is not formal. It is also undesirable to move the refrigerator closer to the stove closer than 60 cm - heating it from the side significantly increases the energy consumption for the budget and increases the likelihood of breakdown.

An example of an incorrect kitchen layout is given in the figure on the left, and a correct one, in compliance with the triangle of functionality, is shown on the right. Placing the refrigerator next to a gas boiler is acceptable; it doesn’t provide much heat to the sides, but in general we should talk about the refrigerator in the kitchen in particular.

Fridge

The refrigerator in the kitchen, as mentioned above, has a hard time. The cooler it is outside, the better it is for him. Therefore, the best option for placing a refrigerator in an apartment is on glassed balcony or, if there is space, in the hallway. It’s generally wonderful on the balcony: the electricity consumption of the refrigerator in the summer decreases by 1.5-2 times, and in the winter – by 6-10 times. An exception is the southern balcony in warm regions. There, due to heating by direct sunlight in summer, the effect may be the opposite.

Washing machine in Khrushchev's kitchen

But wandering back and forth all the time for groceries is unlikely to appeal to any housewife. The solution is a small single-compartment (without freezer) refrigerator for consumable food supplies. This is an expense of 3-5 thousand rubles. additionally, but it pays for itself in a winter or two.

In the Khrushchev kitchen, this completely naturally frees up space for the washing machine (see figure), and small refrigerator can be placed on the table above it. Instead of one piece of kitchen equipment, there are two in the same area, which is not in abundance in the kitchen.

A consumable refrigerator requires absorption or semiconductor, based on the Peltier effect. These do not make any noise at all, and the latter do not require refrigerant charging. True, they freeze worse, but for a consumable portion of food this is not significant.

Of the domestic models, “Morozko” (on the left in the figure below) was specially created for such a purpose. A used Morozko, almost like new, can be bought for 1500-1700 rubles. Biryusa, Sansung and Shivaki (pictured in the center) are equipped with small freezers, but are more expensive. It is not advisable to buy a Ukrainian Nord: it costs only a little less than the “company”, but breaks down much more often.

As for the Chinese-Swiss (it happens...) Liberton LMR-128, in Fig. on the right, then it is better to bypass it by the tenth road:

• After a month or two it begins to grumble and itch unpleasantly.
• The freezer works to self-freeze, not to freeze food.
• It is impossible to remove boiled sausage or a piece of meat from the freezer: the upper protrusion of its lid acts as a stopper.
• At the slightest frost, when you try to open the freezer lid made of thin, fragile plastic, it breaks.
• Animals that lay eggs that do not fall out of the corresponding Liberton trays are unknown to science.
• After six months, the interior lining made of low-quality PVC begins to crack.

In general, Europe and China turned out to be China for all China.

Microwave

It is better to hang a microwave in a small kitchen on the wall under the cabinet. Most microwave ovens are designed to be hung on the wall.

Electrical safety at work

Before starting construction work, the kitchen is completely de-energized by turning off the branch that feeds it at a dose near the meter or in apartment panel. During operation, the instrument will have to be illuminated and powered from an extension cord pulled from another room.

If the kitchen is powered by the same branch as the toilet and the bathroom (project 464 again, damn it!), then in the bathroom the section to the kitchen is disconnected: the wiring is probably aluminum with dried out insulation, and it still needs to be changed. After this, power to the bathroom is restored. This work, of course, is carried out in a completely de-energized apartment.

Stages of repair and finishing work

Cleaning the premises

IN old kitchen the ceiling, walls and floor are saturated with grease fumes up to the main wall, and a lot has also been absorbed into it. Therefore, cleaning a room includes three stages: stripping, washing and impregnation, otherwise there is no confidence that the finish will hold. But first of all, the old flooring is removed down to the screed.

Peeling is done with preliminary soaking of the coating: the paint and plaster are additionally cemented by the child, and you can’t just take them away. Water-based coatings and plaster are soaked with water from a spray bottle:

1. Spray generously.
2. Held at tight behind closed doors and windows for an hour or two.
3. Quickly, before it dries, remove the coating with a spatula or a “stocking” - an abrasive mesh.
4. If it dries before finishing the work, repeat the procedure.

Oil and other paints are removed in the same way, but they are moistened with a sponge with a composition for removing it, and the surface is kept according to the instructions for it. They peel it off in parts: the composition, naturally, is more expensive than water and there is no point in wasting it. Imported and domestic formulations are equally effective, but ours require longer aging and are cheaper. Work to remove oil or alkyd paint carried out in a respirator and protective gloves, in a widely ventilated apartment, except for the kitchen.

On walls saturated with kitchen fumes, paint and plaster will either adhere poorly or will then begin to peel off. Therefore, after stripping the walls, floor and ceiling, you need to wash them with any dishwashing detergent diluted in water in a ratio of 1:20 by volume. Also add 5% table vinegar to the cleaning solution. First you need to check with a small portion whether the vinegar reacts with the detergent. Bubbles, seething, pungent odor - the components are incompatible, you need to use a different detergent. Wash with a metal sponge with pressure, often dipping it into the solution. Then rinse with clean water twice with a foam sponge.

The final stage of cleaning the room is impregnation with a deep penetration primer on concrete. Soak twice every other day. The primer must contain biocidal additives. When purchasing, we check the recipe on the label: thiuram and its derivatives (fernazone, arozone, thiram) are unacceptable. If the recipe is not indicated, we do not take it.

Floor revision

The purpose of the operation is to identify the following on the floor:

• gaping, more than 2 mm wide, cracks;
• crisscrossing cracks, especially in the center of the floor;
• cracks or a network of cracks around the perimeter;
• depressions and protrusions more than 3 mm in height (depth);
• deviation from horizontality is more than 3 mm/m, or more than 10 mm diagonally in the room.

If any of the first three factors are present, it is necessary to replace the screed. This is complex and time-consuming work. Small cracks are repaired using any of the known methods.

Check the floor for evenness and horizontality bubble level at least 1 m long. If available only minor irregularities perfect solution– , see below. If there are large holes or bumps, or the floor is skewed, it needs to be leveled, not only for the convenience of working on the flooring, but also so that spills do not flow into the corners.

The optimal solution in this case is a self-leveling floor cement based layer 10 mm from the highest angle or hillock. Such a leveler is not very expensive, the consumption for a small kitchen is small, and you can lay the finished floor directly on it. By the way, when filling with a cement leveler, even small cracks do not need to be sealed.

Ceiling inspection

The kitchen ceiling is her most painful place: this is where all the children go first of all. On top floor houses with flat bitumen roof The ceiling often drips, and the kitchen is full of electrical appliances. Therefore, in addition to the floor, the ceiling also needs to be cleaned, and very carefully.

When inspecting the ceiling, first of all, the rusts are removed - the seams between the slabs; in the kitchen there is most often one of these. Then they pull out from the channel between the plates old electrical wiring. Evenness and horizontality are checked with the same level, but here a deviation of 20 mm diagonally is permissible. When the slabs are displaced vertically by 30 mm or more relative to each other (this happens in the same 464 project), we do not level the ceiling: extra difficult work, money, materials. will solve the problem suspended ceiling, see below.

What needs to be done during an inspection, especially on the top floor in a panel house, is to foam the channel between the slabs better (layer by layer) with a gun with a narrow spout. This will not save you from getting wet from above, but the drops will go into the adjacent bathroom and toilet, where there are fewer electricians, and the floor screed is designed for heavy flooding.

Laying communications

Gas, water, sewage and ventilation are discussed above. Let's add only the basics about electricity.

If you plan to replace the dose with a shield, you need to hollow out a niche under it at a height of approximately 1.8 m so that children cannot reach the machines. It is inconvenient to place the shield in place of the dose: it is too high for adults to reach.

We lay the wiring using any flat three-wire cable in double insulation. The wires are rigid, single-core. Such a cable does not sag or sag slightly when laid. The core cross-section is at least 1.4 square meters. mm (2 mm diameter).

In a dry room, it is advisable to lay the wiring in grooves and in a metal corrugated hose, but if there is a danger of getting wet, it is better to lay it directly along the bare ceiling. In any case, descents along plastered walls (if replastering is not provided) will have to be grooved. We fix the cable every 10-15 cm with masking (paper) tape to begin with; then in the grooves - with strokes of gypsum or alabaster, and on bare surfaces with drops of construction silicone.

We lead branches for lighting and sockets to the center of the ceiling. There the lighting branch ends, and the socket branches go further, then turn to the walls at 90 degrees and go down along them to their respective places. We let the branches for the washing machine and boiler run along the wall 15-25 cm below the ceiling, also wrap them down at a right angle and bring them to the spot.

Carrying out wiring “as crooked or crooked as God wills” is a common construction hack; the saved cable is run “to the left”. This then significantly complicates troubleshooting and creates a risk to life during subsequent construction work. Deceiving yourself is the last thing, and cable savings in a small kitchen are negligible.

If the apartment is not yet grounded, we leave the protective (yellow with green stripe) cable conductors in the shield or dose, always insulated. When replacing the dose with a shield, it is better to immediately insert them into the corresponding terminals of the circuit breakers and RCDs.

Window and door

We replace or restore the window and door, if required, upon completion of work on communications. You can do it before, it’s not important, but you need to make sure that volatile residues from previous operations have evaporated. To do this, close the room tightly for a day, then smell it. If you can still feel the smell, ventilate it some more.

We protect the window and door from getting dirty during further work as usual: with plastic film on masking tape.

Ceiling

The ceiling in the kitchen must meet the following requirements:

• Be resistant to sudden changes in temperature and humidity.
• Fading, fading and changing tone as little and evenly as possible under the influence of kitchen fumes.
• Do not allow children to pass through so that deposits of organic matter do not form in the interceiling space - a delicious breeding ground for microbes.
• Be brush washable.
• Allow complete or partial overhaul and repair without renovating the entire premises.
• Have a design life of at least 10 years.

Based on this, foam plastic and suspended ceilings, contrary to popular recommendations, are definitely rejected: in the kitchen they last no more than 5 years, when using an ionic or ultraviolet ionizer, and the relief on foam plastic slabs begins to turn black and yellow after just six months.

Materials

The materials for the ceiling should be chosen as follows, in order of preference:

1. Plastic lining or slats.
2. Laminate impregnated from the inside out with PVA water emulsion.
3. MDF lining impregnated with it.
4. Waterproof (green) plasterboard, rolled from the inside out with a needle roller and impregnated twice with PVA emulsion on both sides.

The length of the lining and MDF boards is 2.95 m. In most cases, this is enough to cover the ceiling with solid boards, but first you need to calculate how best to sheath it, lengthwise or crosswise, so that less material is required and less of it goes to waste.

Lathing and light

The sheathing for the sheathing can be made linear, without cross members, from metal profiles or wooden slats. Lag pitch – 400-600 mm; The pitch for fastening the joists to the ceiling is 300-400 mm. If the base ceiling is uneven, you can place pieces of plywood in the gaps under the slats or sheathing profiles. Such a ceiling will not be ideally flat, but there will be no small irregularities on it, which would spoil the view in slanting daylight.

During the installation of the sheathing, slots are made in it for the already laid electrical cable, if it is not in the grooves. Wiring under Spotlights is done along the sheathing with a free-lying flexible cable with a cross-section of 0.7 square meters. mm.

For spot light, the inter-ceiling space must be at least 80 mm. Under the lampshade or chandelier in the center, 20x40 mm sheathing slats, laid flat, are sufficient. The option of one main light is generally preferable, since it practically eliminates the paths of penetration of organic fumes and their harmful consumers into the interceiling.

Sheathing

The ceiling paneling is being done in the usual way: panels are placed on mounting adhesive and secured with small nails in the corner of the tongue groove with finishing with a hammer (for) or with self-tapping gluers, for. In this case, when purchasing, you need to check that the ridge of the tongue fits into the mating groove with the gluer freely or without significant force.

Where to start renovating a kitchen when doing it yourself? What is important is the sequence of work, a correctly drawn up project and convenient layout.

neat cozy kitchen, where the pleasant smell of familiar favorite dishes attracts all family members. Make this important room stylish, comfortable and beautiful - this task sooner or later faces every owner of a house or apartment. Where to start renovating a kitchen with your own hands, what will be needed for this, what work will need to be done and in what order? Having resolved these issues, everyone will be able to more confidently take on making their dreams come true.

It all starts with a project

To have an idea new kitchen began to take on material shape, a three-dimensional drawing is needed. It should depict everything that will be in the kitchen, indicating the volumetric parameters of each item. First of all, we measure the stove, sink and furniture, noting the location and size of pipes, window sill, vent and outlets in the kitchen. Next, you need to measure everything - kitchen appliances that have opening parts, we measure both closed and open state. Then you need to place it all correctly on the drawing.

If you plan to purchase new kitchen furniture, you must first combine it with the sink, stove and built-in appliances, and then count the number of required sockets and mark their locations.

Common planning mistakes

Any minor mistake made at the kitchen planning stage can cause a lot of inconvenience. As practice shows, the following mistakes are most often made in kitchen projects:

• Excessive length of the working surface is typical for large kitchens, this ends in “marathons” from one end of the kitchen to the other during the cooking process.
• Protruding handles reduce the movement of the corner cabinet door, which is why the drawers do not extend completely.
• Narrow passages - in order to move freely around the kitchen, you need to take into account the length of the drawers in the design and add space for a person to pass through.
• Marble work surfaces and floors in the kitchen. Marble is a porous material from which deeply embedded dirt cannot be removed.
• Corian is the most durable and strong material, but it also retains scratches and stains, and it cannot be restored with improvised means.
• Mosaic cladding - this type of finish should not be used for doors and drawers, it makes the structure very heavy.
• Linking the location of the slab to ventilation hole- Now there is an alternative to air ducts - hoods with a carbon filter.
• Glossy facades look beautiful, but they need to be wiped several times a day, otherwise their surface turns into a catalog of fingerprints.
• Wooden floors get dirty quickly and lose their “marketable” appearance.
• Glass countertops are a surface on which it is impossible to quietly place a cup or plate. All sleeping family members will know about your early breakfast by a loud knock.
• Drawers are too wide - they open easily only when empty.

• There are a lot of seams - if the kitchen “apron” is covered with wallpaper, it is better to cover them with glass, and with a single piece, and not several connected end-to-end.
• Sink non-standard shape– pleasing to the eye, but completely impractical for its intended use.
• There is no place for small household appliances - often built-in appliances alone in the kitchen are not enough, so you need space and sockets for such purposes.
• Weighty cabinets on light walls - the storage system should be hung exclusively on solid walls, or it may simply not support its weight.
• Incorrect location of equipment - ovens, steamers, coffee machines cannot be installed either too low or too high. The ideal location is at waist level.
• There is not enough lighting - the kitchen requires multi-level lighting: a lamp above the table, lamps above the work area, overhead light.
• Absence free space on the countertop between the stove, sink and refrigerator.
• Excessively high plinth in the kitchen - it is worth remembering that today almost all built-in appliances are designed for a plinth of up to 10 cm;
• Shelves instead of drawers - to take something from the depths of a shelf, you need to lay out part of its contents. IN drawer all items are equally accessible.

Deciding on materials

If the preliminary project is finally approved, you can proceed to compiling a list of materials required for its implementation. You will need a lot of them: cement, paint for walls and ceilings, glue, putty, linoleum, facing materials And so on. It is possible that you will have to replace sockets and electrical wiring, plumbing units and ventilation elements.

The list should be very detailed; all the details of the future kitchen should be taken into account. Having found out the current prices, you can proceed to calculating the estimate. Further DIY repairs should only be started if the full calculation of all costs does not exceed the budget that can be spent on repairs.

Let's bring up communications

After clearing the room of old coatings and removing debris, it’s time to move on to connecting the communications. First of all, you should deal with the electrical wiring. Sockets will be needed in the following places:

• V work area;
• for the refrigerator;
• for hood;
• for electric stove;
• for other household appliances (dishwasher, microwave, etc.);
• additional socket for local lighting.

The next stage is the installation of the ventilation system - we place the hood at a height of 60-70 centimeters above the surface of the slab. Old ventilation pipes should also be replaced.

Modern water supply and sewerage systems are, first of all, metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes. They are durable, easy to install with your own hands, and insensitive to temperature changes.

After laying the pipes, taps are installed, after which gas hoses can be connected.

From ceiling to floor

When making repairs with your own hands, it is always correct to do the work in sequence from top to bottom (first the ceiling is done, then the walls and then last resort- floor). First, the ceiling needs to be leveled, and you can paint it only after completely dry layer of putty. If installation is planned stretch ceiling, then it is done after finishing the walls.

Next, you can begin leveling the walls with satengypsum or isogypsum. Wallpaper for the kitchen needs to be washable, since settling fat and soot will need to be removed from it. The working area of ​​the sink and stove is usually tiled. Then comes the turn of leveling the floor. For this purpose, a self-leveling mixture or a homemade cement-sand mixture, which is used to fill the screed, is suitable. The flooring is laid on top.

For the kitchen, it is better to choose a plastic or metal baseboard, since a wooden one is not practical (it is afraid of moisture and is difficult to clean).

You need to buy as many corner elements as there are corners in the kitchen. Trim plastic skirting board It is recommended to use a miter saw, and it is better to start installation from a corner or from a door.

A beautiful kitchen renovation is the dream of many people, especially those living in old Soviet interiors. We spend the most time in the kitchen compared to other rooms, so it is very important to make it comfortable, aesthetically attractive, and as functional as possible. At the same time, it is important not to forget about the ease of maintaining cleanliness and the wear resistance of all coatings. Let's look at the stages of kitchen renovation, mistakes made and materials most suitable for each part of the room.

Stages of work and organizational issues

Your actions should be divided in stages, observing a certain order of repairs. First, you need to decide what you want and can change - just update the walls, floor, ceiling, or do a complete remodel, change the style and replace the furniture.

Be sure to start with the design of the future kitchen - you need to clearly imagine what the future kitchen should be like, where the furniture and kitchen equipment will be located.

You need to take into account the size of the room, the number of people spending time in the kitchen, the activity of its use, as well as the finances available. Can be made easy redecorating, this will not take much time and effort, but it is better to start a thorough one, with the demolition of the top coverings of the walls, floor and ceiling, in order to definitely update the kitchen and guarantee quality for the future.

The plan for the future kitchen can be drawn on paper or using computer programs– independently or contact specialists. You can also make the sketch more tangible by taking cardboard box(analogous to a kitchen space), and in accordance with the scale, cut out small models of future furniture and equipment from foam plastic. Such models can be moved around the box, combined and evaluated until the result suits everyone.

Be sure to measure the furniture that already exists and will continue to stand in the kitchen, and appliances, including those with open doors. Or we rely on measurements from the catalog if we buy a new headset. The placement of pipes, ventilation, window sill, and battery should be taken into account. We figure out where everything will be located and how to fit together. Be sure to think through the lighting and location of sockets for household appliances in advance so that you don’t have to install them additionally later, which is quite problematic.

The procedure for renovating a kitchen is always exactly this:

1. First we repair the ceiling.
2. Then we do the walls.
3. Finally, we tidy up the floor.

A step-by-step plan for finishing the room can be presented as follows:

• We remove all furniture and appliances from the kitchen, even built-in ones.
• We remove the old coating from the surfaces. We collect and remove the generated waste.
• We separate the electrical wiring, determine and and, and remove the wires.
• We are improving communications and ventilation.
• We install new plumbing fixtures.
• We are finishing the ceiling.
• We level and decorate the walls.
• We are changing the flooring.
• We install equipment and arrange furniture.

Selection of necessary materials and clearing of space

First, let's decide on the style and color scheme future kitchen. Fortunately, today there is a wide choice, for every taste and color. After this, you can make a list of the materials you need. Will be needed for repair work and paint, putty, primer, glue, and various facing materials, depending on the choice of the owners. We get acquainted with the prices and draw up an estimate in order to navigate the upcoming expenses. Then we buy all the necessary materials and follow the plan, paying attention to the advice of specialized experts.

After this, we dismantle the old coverings on the ceiling, walls, and then from the floor. Peeling is carried out with preliminary soaking of the coating. Painted surfaces are peeled off using a special remover, working in protective clothing and goggles. The soaked coating is removed using a spatula or abrasive mesh. After stripping, the walls, floor and ceiling should be washed with diluted detergent so that the paint and plaster will adhere well. Finally, we treat the surfaces using a deep penetration primer, applying it in layers twice with a break every other day.

Features of kitchen renovations and popular mistakes

Unlike other rooms, the kitchen has its own characteristics that should be taken into account when starting finishing work.

These are high humidity and temperature in the room, an aggressive atmosphere and fluctuations in all these factors, which have an impact on furniture and decoration. The kitchen especially needs to maintain hygiene to avoid the accumulation of harmful microorganisms in secluded corners. Its great popularity and at the same time small area also deserves attention when choosing materials and a renovation project.

Kitchen owners often make the same mistakes, which are quite common and can be mentioned:

• A project for the future kitchen is not drawn up, there is no clear vision of what needs to be done and why.
• The materials are calculated incorrectly, as a result of which there may not be enough of them.
• The procedure for repairing premises elements is incorrect, which creates extra work Later.
• Reluctance to do everything carefully, haste and laziness.
• Incorrect furniture layout, inconsistency with the size of the kitchen.
• Purchasing household appliances before, and not after, renovation, which is why there are inconsistencies in the placement of furniture and appliances.
• There are too few sockets - it is better to make more of them, as practice shows.
• Exhaust power is too low, which can damage furniture and wall coverings.

And these are not all the mistakes made during the repair process. In such an important matter, it is better to think through all the possible little details in advance than to later figure out how to eliminate the consequences of ill-conceived decisions, especially if this is not at all easy to do and requires additional resources that were not originally planned.

Wiring the necessary communications

Work on wiring communications must begin with electrics. As mentioned above, it is necessary to calculate in advance where the furniture will be placed and how it will be convenient to connect the devices. Sockets will be needed in the area of ​​the work area, for the refrigerator, stove, microwave, hood, and possibly for local lighting. You can do the wiring yourself, but it is better to invite a qualified electrician.

Then we install ventilation. It is better to replace old ventilation pipes. We provide a hood at a distance of 60-70 cm above the stove. You need to know that you cannot run the exhaust hood and the gas boiler into the same ventilation passage - this can be life-threatening!

Working with gas equipment This is best left to a gas technician; this is not the place for personal experimentation.

When reconstructing the water supply and sewerage systems, you must first consider the location of the pipes and equipment to which they will go. In accordance with this, calculate the required footage and the number of connecting elements. If necessary, old pipes are dismantled and new ones are installed - it is best to choose them from metal-plastic or polypropylene. After all this, you should connect the taps, install the sink and connect the gas hoses.

Updating the ceiling, walls, floor and other kitchen elements

We remember in what order we need to inspect kitchen surfaces. It is correct to start finishing from the ceiling. It can be painted, made of plasterboard or suspended, covered with foam plastic, but these options are least suitable for the kitchen. The best option there will be plastic lining, waterproof plasterboard, laminate or MDF lining impregnated on the reverse side with PVA water emulsion.

Then we decide how best to organize the decoration of the walls. They can be painted, covered with tiles or glued with good washable wallpaper - others will not work here. Good choice There will be foam wallpaper. Only the kitchen apron can be paved with tiles, or one of the walls can be paved. This type of coating is quite environmentally friendly and easy to maintain, but special attention will have to be paid to the seams between the tiles.

If you want to paint the walls, you first need to level them - before doing this, putty the existing unevenness and cracks and prime them. After leveling, we again cover the walls with a layer of primer - it is better to use deep penetration. After the walls have dried, they must be puttied with finishing fine-grained putty and dried again. Sand the surface, prime it again, and after drying you can begin decorative finishing walls

It is better not to skimp on paint for the ceiling and walls, as the difference in quality will be felt. According to its consistency, it is better to choose a velvety, matte one, which will help hide existing unevenness.

Finally, you can begin leveling and laying the floor. You can level the floor using a self-leveling mixture, or you can make a cement-sand mixture yourself and fill the screed with it. Most suitable covering for the kitchen floor - this tile, linoleum or marmoleum (natural linoleum). Each of them has its own pros and cons; you can make a choice based on your preferences, tastes, ease of use and the amount of money allocated for materials.

Now you can fix the baseboards - floor and kitchen, plastic or metal are best. A logical continuation of the overall renovation would be to replace the door, especially with a sliding one, which will also save space. You can still buy new chandelier, cornice, decorate old furniture, if left, with the help self-adhesive film or decorative designs.

At the same time, if funds allow, you can replace old windows with new, metal-plastic ones, or restore old ones.

Installation and location of kitchen equipment

Now you can start arranging furniture and equipment, which you cannot do without in a modern kitchen. If the previous calculations were made correctly, then we will place everything without problems and according to the rules of the neighborhood.

Gas appliances should be located no closer than 80 cm to each other. That is gas stove and the boiler cannot be installed nearby. The refrigerator should also not be adjacent to the stove - it can heat up, which threatens its malfunction and possible early breakdown. It should be moved back at least 60 cm, or, as an option, installed on the balcony, unless, of course, it is on the south side in warm climes. Although the latter option will not be convenient for a housewife who spends a lot of time cooking. It is best to hang the microwave on the wall under the cabinet, this will save valuable space.

For convenience, we follow the rule of the kitchen triangle - the stove, sink and refrigerator should be located in exactly this location to each other.

Various kitchen options

How best to arrange the kitchen as a whole, everyone decides based on the house in which they live, the size of the kitchen space and their own tastes.

In a panel house, it is advisable to insulate the outside wall in advance and replace old windows with metal-plastic ones. Remodeling the space, combining the kitchen with the living room will allow you to expand the space - this will require special permission. The same will need to be done in the Khrushchev-era building; in addition, you can replace the old plumbing.

For a small kitchen, L-shaped, U-shaped, single row layout. Visually expanding the walls and adding more light will allow you to choose light colors in the interior, the use of mirror surfaces. Built-in appliances, functional furniture, custom-made, folding furniture will also save space. lunch group, roller blinds on the windows.

So, you can already get an idea of ​​how to renovate the kitchen. If you have experience, skills and necessary materials you can do it quickly, and there is also the opportunity to learn new things using this knowledge in the future. Comfortable modern kitchen will be a reward for your efforts.

Many of us today prefer to do kitchen renovation work, at least most of it, with our own hands, and then the question becomes: what are the main stages of kitchen renovation, And in what order should all work be performed?.

Carrying out the necessary measurements

To create a kitchen design project and calculate the amount of materials needed, you first need to be very precise know all the parameters of the room. First of all, the width, length and height of the room are measured, then the dimensions of the window and doorway, as well as the distance from them to the floor and ceiling, adjacent walls. It is also necessary to measure the mezzanine, if there is one.

In addition, measurements are taken of the location of all existing outlet groups, inlet and outlet, and ventilation vent. If there are any protrusions in the floor slabs in the kitchen, then this must also be taken into account and appropriate measurements taken. If you want to spend redevelopment, demolish some partitions, then you need to measure the adjacent room with which the kitchen will be combined.

Accuracy of measurements should be as high as possible, and the error should be no more than 0.5 cm. Otherwise, you may end up with a non-closing, too inconvenient passage between and, especially when it comes to a small kitchen, where every centimeter is accounted for.

Creation of a design project

The location of all lockers on the plan should be noted in advance. If you are planning to order a specific one, then it is better to measure all its parameters in advance and estimate how it fits into the kitchen. You can use simple programs and even mobile applications , in which all actions are simplified as much as possible: you only need to enter the parameters of the room and the parameters of the desired furniture.

There are also original way think over the placement of all pieces of furniture. A box is created from cardboard that will serve as a model of the kitchen. Naturally, it is necessary to adhere to the scale. Figures of furniture and equipment are also made from foam plastic to scale, and then all these parts are placed in a box until it is found perfect option. Whatever the method, the result should be a clear visual representation of what the future kitchen should look like.

At this stage, it also doesn’t hurt to think through color scheme kitchens, accessories used, finishing materials and other details. If the kitchen is small, then it doesn’t hurt to choose. If planned create partitions and other structures, then their location must be noted in the project.

Location of communications

When creating a project, you also need to clearly foresee where all communications will be located. First of all, it is necessary think about where the sockets should be: they must be around dining table, as well as in the work area, where a lot of equipment that is constantly present in the kitchen will be connected (refrigerator, microwave, hood, etc.), as well as small Appliances, like a blender, mixer, juicer. You need to think about it in advance and, because all lamps will need connect the electrical wiring, and organize switches for them.

If you want completely change location and sinks, then you need to take into account several rules. Thus, flexible gas hoses should not be more than 4 meters in length, and water hoses should not be more than 1.5 meters. All these pipes must be accessible for inspection in order to simplify repair work and not provoke conflicts with special services. Great way out - hide the pipes behind kitchen cabinets without back walls: communications are disguised and do not spoil appearance, and can be accessed quickly and easily.

Equipment location

If the project provides for the presence, and at the same time you have a gas boiler installed, then you cannot remove them in one ventilation passage - this is life-threatening. Depending on your own preferences and kitchen features, you can choose a flow-through or circulation hood. The latter does not need to be connected to the ventilation outlet.

If the kitchen is located several gas appliances, for example, a stove and a boiler, then the distance between them should be at least 80 cm. Fridge must be located at a distance of at least 60 cm from the stove. Otherwise, electricity consumption will increase significantly, and the likelihood of the refrigerator breaking down becomes much higher.

What about the refrigerator?, then many experts advise placing it outside the kitchen, in cooler rooms: on the loggia, if it is adjacent to the kitchen, or in. Thus, you can significantly save on electricity consumption: in summer the refrigerator will use 1.5-2 times less energy, and in winter – 6 times less. But this arrangement of the refrigerator is not very good, and constantly running with food from the kitchen to it is not very convenient.

The rest of the equipment is placed at your own discretion. So, if you need a microwave, it is better to hang it or install it on a shelf above work surface so as not to take up useful space.

Calculation of required building materials

In order not to encounter the problem of shortage or excessive surplus, you need to calculate them as accurately as possible in advance required amount. After the design project is ready, finishing methods have been selected, it is necessary to calculate how much and what materials will be needed to carry out preparatory work, rough and finishing.

If difficulties arise, then at this stage you can contact specialists. The estimate includes the necessary facing materials, primer, putty, possibly new sockets, wires, etc. It doesn’t hurt to think in advance not only the quantity needed, but. This will help you plan your budget correctly and can indicate the need to save.

Preparatory work

By preparing the kitchen for renovation we mean cleaning and removing old finishes, furniture and appliances. removing appliances and furniture from the kitchen, then dismantling the ceramic tiles, removing the baseboards and flooring.

It is not so easy to remove from the ceiling, so you will have to spend a lot of effort on washing the surface. The same applies to painted walls: in this case in the best possible way A special paint thinner helps. You need to work with it with extreme caution, wearing a respirator, protective clothing and goggles. You can use a spatula; you can first wet them a little with cool water.

At this stage also remove unnecessary partitions, if these actions do not contradict the norms, but in general, any redevelopment must be agreed upon in advance. If the plan includes replacing the door, then it is better to remove it at this stage. After all old finish dismantled, it is best to wipe the surfaces with a detergent solution and then with plain water. This removes all remaining dust and accumulated grease. carried out taking into account all points of electricity consumption, also equipping and remodeling if necessary, water supply and sewerage system

. They start with the electrical wiring, which requires three-wire cables in double insulation with a diameter of 2 mm. The walls are tapped in the necessary places so that the cable can be laid there, then the wire itself is fixed with masking tape and plaster. Cables are laid only at right angles. At this stage, you need to clearly know the kitchen lighting scheme and the location of sockets.

The water supply and sewerage system must be made of metal-plastic or: they are easy to install, durable, and are not afraid of temperature changes. After this, you can connect the gas hoses.

Window installation After installation of all communications, perform window replacement , if necessary. After installing a new window, it will be protected from possible contamination during further repair work. hide with plastic film And masking tape

. In principle, the window can be installed before all communications are carried out - this is not so important.

Rough finish At this stage, all surfaces are leveled and prepared for subsequent. finishing Ceiling hanging or. In this case, you just need to eliminate the largest defects, such as crumbling plaster.

The same work is carried out with walls, and they can be more uneven than ceilings, and this applies to those areas where there were tiles. After dismantling it, pits and depressions may remain, so it is better plaster mixture , and preferably moisture resistant. In this case, you can also use sheets moisture-resistant plasterboard: the work will be completed much faster, but at the same time you will steal several centimeters of usable space from the kitchen, which must be taken into account in the design project. You can take such measures without hesitation if we're talking about about a spacious dining room, but such a solution is unacceptable. The walls in the kitchen must be perfectly smooth, especially if you plan to use ceramic tiles. Finally, the prepared surface of the walls and ceiling must be prime for better grip finishing material.

, but the screed was not dismantled, you can use the system

Like any other room in the apartment, the kitchen often needs renovation. And sometimes more often than bedrooms, hallways or living rooms. In the kitchen they prepare food, eat, communicate, in general, the kitchen is one of the most popular places in the house. Therefore, the frequency of updating kitchen rooms is increasing.

Surface preparation

Where to start renovating a kitchen? First of all, you need to level the walls and floor. The walls must be leveled with plaster so that the kitchen cabinets hang evenly during installation, without noticeable distortions.

Floors, if they are concrete, are leveled using a screed and a finishing leveler. Subsequently, any covering can be laid on them, for example, tiles.

If the floors are wooden, then small distortions are not very bad; it is enough to fasten the boards with plywood. It is not recommended to lay tiles on a wooden floor; it is better to use linoleum, PVC tiles or laminate.

The final stage of kitchen renovation is the installation of the kitchen unit. But before this, it is necessary to carry out a series of preparatory work and finishing of the entire room.

Preparation work consists of:

• In the electrical wiring for connecting the hob, oven and microwave oven.
• In the wiring water pipes to connect dishwasher and fine filters.
• In laying tiles between the top and floor cabinets, that is, the so-called apron.

Kitchen renovation step by step

Using one kitchen as an example, the article will talk about all the stages of renovation.

1. First ordered kitchen set. While it was being manufactured, locations for future sockets were marked according to the finished sketch. The dimensions of the future tiled apron were also marked.

2. Then two power cables were laid from the electrical panel in the hallway. They had to be laid through the bathroom and toilet, making holes in the brick. One of the cables (VVG 3×2.5) was intended to power a hydromassage bath.

3. To connect the hob and oven a more powerful power cable was used (VVG 3×6). He walked into the kitchen to the place where the sockets were installed.

4. These cables are shown schematically on the apartment plan. The wire laid to the kitchen is shown with a yellow line, and the cable for the bath is shown with a blue line (Fig. 4).

5. Subsequently, the wires were laid in corrugated plastic pipes and covered with tiles.

6. The sockets for the panel and the oven had to be recessed into the wall so that they would not interfere with the installation of the headset later. I had to ditch, install sockets, plaster and lay old tile back to the old place.

7. Then, on the wall between the kitchen and the bathroom, a branch was installed from the outlet for additional point, to which the microwave oven was then connected.

8. Two new ones were installed in the apartment electrical panel circuit breakers. A hob was connected to a 32 A machine, and an oven was connected to a 25 A machine.

9. After that, tiles were laid along the entire perimeter of the future kitchen unit.

10. Done decorative niche and also finished with ceramics.

11. The space for the future ventilation hood was laid out separately, according to the sketch.

12. Since the floor in our kitchen was originally made of wood, it was decided to install laminate.

13. A little earlier, the floor was covered with sheets of plywood, and they were secured with self-tapping screws.

14. After gluing the wallpaper and installing the baseboard, the kitchen set was finally installed.

15. The microwave took its place in the niche intended for it, was connected and checked.

16. When a sink with mixer and tap was installed clean water, it’s time to connect fine filters and a dishwasher. This operation was performed to pre-connected pipelines using tees and adapters.

17. Then we connected and checked the hob and oven.

18. The final stage was the installation of ventilation. The hood was connected to the ventilation riser using adapters.