Remove from wooden barrel steel hoops and it will fall apart. Remove the reinforced belt from the house and the building will not stand for long. This is a simplified, but very clear explanation of the need to strengthen the walls. Anyone who is going to build a solid house will benefit from information about the purpose, types and arrangement of armored belts.

What is this design and what functions does it perform? Armopoyas - a tape made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which is laid on several levels of a building under construction.

fill reinforced belt performed in the foundation, under the floor slabs and under the power plates (rafter support beams).

This amplification method performs four important functions:

• Increases the spatial rigidity of the building.
• Protects the foundation and walls from cracks caused by uneven settlement and frost heaving of the soil.
• Does not allow heavy floor slabs to push through fragile gas and foam concrete.
• Connects securely truss system roofs with walls made of light blocks.

The main material for increasing the rigidity of the walls was and remains reinforced concrete. For small outbuildings, you can use a less powerful brick armored belt. It consists of 4-5 rows of brickwork, the width of which is equal to the width of the bearing wall. In the seam of each row, a grid with a cell of 30-40 mm made of steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is laid on the mortar.

Strengthening the walls with a reinforced belt is not always required. Therefore, there is no need to waste money on its device in the following cases:

• under the sole of the foundation lies a solid soil (rocky, coarse or coarse sand, not saturated with water);
• the walls are built of brick;
• under construction cottage, which is covered with wooden beams, not reinforced concrete panels.

If on the site lie soft soils(pulverized sand, loam, clay, loess, peat bog), then the answer to the question of whether a reinforcing belt is needed is obvious. You can not do without it in the case when the walls are built from expanded clay concrete or cellular blocks (foam or aerated concrete).

These are fragile materials. They do not withstand ground movements and point loads from interfloor floor slabs. The armored belt eliminates the risk of wall deformation and evenly distributes the load from the plates to the blocks.

For wood concrete blocks (the wall thickness is not less than 30 cm, and the strength grade is not lower than B2.5), the armored belt is not needed.

For Mauerlat

The wooden beam on which the rafters rest is called the Mauerlat. She cannot push through the foam block, so it may seem to someone that an armored belt is not needed under her. However, the correct answer to this question depends on the material from which the house is built. Mauerlat fastening without armored belt is allowed for brick walls. They securely hold the anchors with which the Mauerlat is attached to them.

If we are dealing with light blocks, then the armored belt will have to be poured. In aerated concrete, foam concrete and expanded clay blocks anchor fastenings cannot be securely fixed. Therefore very strong wind can tear off the power plate from the wall along with the roof.

For foundation

Here the approach to the amplification problem does not change. If the foundation will be assembled from FBS blocks, then the armored belt is definitely necessary. Moreover, it must be done at two levels: at the level of the sole (base) of the foundation and at its upper cut. This solution will protect the structure from intense loads that occur during the rise and settlement of the soil.

For reinforced concrete strip foundations, reinforcement with a reinforced belt is also required, at least at the level of the sole. Rubble concrete is an economical, but not resistant to soil movement material, so it needs reinforcement. But the monolithic “tape” does not need an armored belt, since its basis is a steel three-dimensional frame.

There is no need for a device of this design for a solid foundation slab, which is poured under buildings on soft soils.

Under what types of interfloor ceilings do you need an armored belt?

Beneath the panels that lean on expanded clay concrete blocks, gas or foam concrete, a reinforced belt must be done without fail.

Under monolithic reinforced concrete floor it can not be flooded, since it evenly transfers the load to the walls and firmly binds them into a single spatial structure.

Armor belt under wooden floor, which relies on light blocks (aerated concrete, expanded clay, foam concrete) is not required. In this case, it will be enough to fill under the beams support platforms from concrete with a thickness of 4-6 cm to eliminate the risk of punching blocks.

How to make an armored belt?

The technology for constructing a reinforced stiffening belt is no different from the method of pouring a monolithic foundation.

In general, it consists of three operations:

• Reinforcing cage manufacturing;
• Formwork installation;
• Pouring concrete.

Certain subtleties and nuances in the work appear depending on the location of the armored belt.

Reinforced belt under the foundation

Answering the question of how to make a reinforced belt under the foundation (level 1), let's say that its width should be 30-40 cm more than the width of the supporting part of the main concrete "tape". This will significantly reduce the pressure of the building on the ground. Depending on the number of storeys of the house, the thickness of such a stiffening belt can be from 40 to 50 cm.

The reinforced belt of the first level is made under all the load-bearing walls of the building, and not just under the outer ones. The frame for it is made by knitting reinforcing clamps. Welding is used only for preliminary connection (tack) of the main reinforcement into a common spatial structure.

Armoias of the second level (on the foundation)

This design is essentially a continuation strip foundation(rubber concrete, block). To reinforce it, it is enough to use 4 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm, connecting them with clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

If the main foundation is rubble concrete, then there are no problems with installing formwork under the armored belt. To do this, you need to leave free space in it (20-30 cm) for installing the reinforcing cage, taking into account the protective layer of concrete (3-4 cm).

With FBS blocks, the situation is more complicated, since formwork is not placed for them. In this case, wooden spacers should be used, which support the formwork panels from below. Before installation on the shields, trimmings of boards are stuffed, which protrude beyond the dimensions of the formwork by 20-30 cm and do not allow the structure to move to the right or left. To connect the formwork panels, short cross bars are nailed along the top of the boards.

Option for fastening the formwork of the armored belt on the foundation blocks

You can simplify the mounting system by using threaded studs. They are placed in pairs in formwork panels at a distance of 50-60 cm. By tightening the studs with nuts, we get a sufficiently strong and stable structure for pouring concrete without wooden supports and crossbars.

This system is also suitable for formwork, which requires an armored belt for floor slabs.

The studs that will be filled with concrete must be wrapped in glassine or applied a little on them. engine oil. This will make it easier to remove them from the concrete after it has hardened.

Armopoyas for floor slabs

Ideally, its width should be equal to the width of the wall. This can be done in the case when the facade will be completely lined with slab insulation. If for decoration it is decided to use only plaster mortar, then the width of the armored belt will have to be reduced by 4-5 centimeters in order to leave room for foam or mineral wool. Otherwise, a through cold bridge of very solid dimensions will appear in the zone of laying the stiffening belt.

When making an armored belt on aerated concrete, you can use another solution. It consists in installing two thin blocks along the edges of the masonry. In the space between them is placed steel frame and concrete is poured. The blocks act as formwork and insulate the belt.

If thickness aerated concrete wall 40 cm, then for this purpose you can use partition blocks 10 cm thick.

With a smaller wall thickness, you can cut it out with your own hands in a standard masonry block a cavity for an armored belt or buy a ready-made aerated concrete U-block.

Reinforced belt under Mauerlat

The main feature that distinguishes the armo-belt under the Mauerlat from other types of reinforcement is the presence of anchor studs in it. With their help, the beam is firmly fixed to the wall without the risk of tearing or shifting under the action of wind loads.

The width and height of the reinforcing cage must be such that after the structure is embedded between the metal and outer surface belt on all sides there are at least 3-4 cm of the protective layer of concrete.

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

The reinforced belt is considered one of the most milestones construction block house. It is done at the end of each floor. The armored belt on aerated concrete gives rigidity to the entire surface of the house, “gluing” the entire structure together and strengthening the whole house.

If you are in doubt about own forces and skills, it is possible to invite specialists for these purposes, but those who are more or less versed in the construction business are quite capable of filling the armored belt, following the step-by-step instructions.

How to make an armored belt for aerated concrete?

To do this, you need to buy additional blocks 10 cm thick. outer side blocks are laid at home with glue, then from extruded polystyrene or from mineral wool a thermal circuit is arranged. Then blocks 5 cm thick or formwork in the form of plywood are placed inside the house. As a result, a home-made block is obtained, inside which reinforcement for the armored belt is laid, from 8 to 12 diameters.

It is laid in the form of a rectangle, while the frames are knitted - two rods on top and bottom. In any market, you can purchase special fastening sprockets that are used in the work. This is done so that the reinforcement does not lie on the block itself, but is in the air - a so-called protective layer concrete, with a gap of 3 cm above and below.

After that, concrete is poured, carefully leveled and a ready-made armored belt for floor slabs is obtained. More detailed description can be viewed on the video, the photo also shows drawings, diagrams and step-by-step instruction for the fabrication of the structure.

If you look closely, studs are visible around the entire perimeter, to which the floors will subsequently be attached so that the roof is kept as evenly as possible and does not move to the sides. The length of the studs depends on the thickness of the overlap. As a rule, meter elements are taken and cut in half.

How to fill in the armored belt with your own hands? This question worries many, especially beginners. Probably, many are familiar with the picture when concrete is poured from a sleeve - a special concrete pump that delivers the material to the right place. But in most cases, the armo-belt device does not allow this task to be completed, since the concrete under pressure will fall from high altitude, and the formwork can simply scatter. Therefore, it is often necessary to use manual labor no matter how heavy it is.

When pouring an armored belt in a house made of aerated concrete, the subsequent load should be calculated. If it is not supposed to be too large, you can save. The volume of the structure can be made smaller, but not by narrowing it, but by reducing the thickness. Experienced craftsmen they know how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the armored belt and reduce the cost of its manufacture, while not losing the quality of the entire structure, which is very important.

As for the fill, there is one more important advice. This process should be done in one go, not in multiple passes. If this is not possible, then it is first recommended to install special wooden jumpers. When it comes time to pour a new part, the overlap is removed, the joints are thoroughly moistened, and only after that a new batch of concrete can be poured.

At the end of laying, it is necessary to compact the concrete mixture to eliminate voids. To do this, take a piece of reinforcement and pierce concrete with it. If work is done in the summer, high temperature, then it is recommended to cover the armo-belt under the Mauerlat with polyethylene so that moisture does not evaporate and cracks do not form on the surface.

An armored belt is a reinforced concrete structure, which is designed to strengthen the walls of the house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external / internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating ground, and ground seismic activity. The list of internal factors includes all household building appliances used in interior decoration Houses. If it is wrong to make an armored belt, then because of these phenomena, the walls will simply crack, and even worse, they will disperse. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt. The types, purpose and method of installing the armored belt will be discussed in this article.

There are 4 types of armored belt:

• grillage;
• basement;
• interfloor;
• under Mauerlat.

Before starting work, prepare tools / materials:

1. Fittings.
2. Cement.
3. Sand.
4. Rubble.
5. Wire for bandaging fittings.
6. Boards.
7. Self-tapping screws.
8. Brick.
9. Shovel.
10. Crowbar / crowbar.

In order for all the work you have done to be done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the technique of manufacturing an arm mesh / frame and formwork.

In order for the armo-belt to be of high quality, and, accordingly, the house is reliable, you need to know how to properly make the armo-mesh / frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out with a knitting wire, and not with a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the place near the weld being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams in the manufacture of the mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the rest of the connecting nodes are connected.

The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in the required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes, a thin wire is used; the strength of the mesh / frame does not depend on it.

For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps to increase bearing capacity designs. Such a belt can work in tension.

To make a frame, take 2 cores with a thickness of 12 mm and a length of 6 m, while for transverse reinforcement you will have enough rods with a thickness of 10 mm. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods just knit. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap forms. Weld them from the edges and in the center. Thus, you will get a frame. For the manufacture of the belt, there is no need to weld frames. They are overlapped by 0.2–0.3 m.

The installation and fixing of the formwork is carried out by several methods. To install wooden shields, it is necessary to pass anchors through them, mount plugs on them using electric welding. The purpose of these actions is to fix the formwork in such a way that it does not squeeze out under the weight of concrete.

To fix the formwork when pouring the interfloor armored belt, a simpler method is often used. A screw with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 10 cm should be fixed on the bottom of the shield. The distance between them is 0.7 m. So, attach a wooden shield to the wall, drill a hole through it, insert a fungus into it and hammer in the screw.

The hole in the shield should be a little more than 6 mm in diameter. This is necessary in order to freely install the fungus.

The upper part of the formwork is also fixed with quick installation. But in this case, you should screw in the self-tapping screw, not the screw. So, make a hole in the facing brick. Then drive reinforcement into it. If the brick is solid, then the situation is simpler - just drive a nail / rebar into a vertical seam. Tighten the self-tapping screw and fittings with a knitting wire. The distance between the fasteners is 1–1.2 m. Such a fastener is able to withstand the upcoming loads.

After the armo-belt hardens, the formwork can be removed using a crowbar / nail puller. In the warm season, concrete sets in a day. In this case, the formwork can be dismantled the next day. In the cold season, this procedure is carried out after a few days.

Initially, you should determine the depth of the foundation. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of occurrence. ground water. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.

After special equipment, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to solid ground. The surface should be as hard and level as possible.

Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50-100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This event may be needed to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.

After backfill sand cushion, it must be tamped down. To cope with the task faster, pour water over the sand.

Then the reinforcement should be laid. During the construction process, under normal conditions, reinforcement of 4-5 cores should be used, the diameter of each rod should be 10-12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be embedded in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, laying halves of the brick under it.

If you are building a house on heaving soil or where there is a high level of groundwater, then the grillage should be made more durable. To do this, instead of a reinforcing mesh, you should use reinforcing cage. He imagines 2 grids, consisting of 4 cores with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.

For the manufacture of the mesh, a knitting wire is used, not a welding seam.

For the grillage, concrete M200 should be used. In order for the pouring height to correspond to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal to the height of the grillage in length. It will serve as your guide.

Before erecting walls on the foundation, the base armored belt should be poured. It must be poured around the perimeter of the building along external walls, but this cannot be done along the internal bearing walls. The base armored belt serves as an additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the basement belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm; concrete M200 and above is used. The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. Reinforcement is laid in one layer.

If you need to strengthen the basement belt, then use thicker reinforcement or install more cores. Another option is to lay the reinforcement mesh in 2 layers.

The thickness of the basement and outer walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the basement armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, it is necessary to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete, having previously laid reinforcement in it.

In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a basement armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, reinforce the basement belt, while using larger diameter reinforcement, which supposedly improves the bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.

The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the basement belt is an addition or reinforcement of the bearing capacity of the armored belt for the foundation. Collaboration grillage and basement belt guarantees a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with high level groundwater deposits.

Between the wall and the floor slabs, you also need to make an armored belt. It is poured along the outer walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. The interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door / window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.

If an armored belt is installed on the walls of a material that does not perceive the load well, then the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.

Reinforcement of the interfloor belt is carried out with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10-12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the wall thickness varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided formwork can be used as formwork. brickwork, as for the basement belt. But at the same time, backing bricks should be used for internal masonry, and for external facing. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm. With a smaller thickness of the walls, the backing brick should be laid on the edge or a wooden formwork should be used instead, and on the outside, just as in the previous case, the face brick is laid.

It is possible to fill in the armo-belt under the Mauerlat only after the glue / mortar for laying the walls has hardened. The technology by which the armored belt is laid on aerated concrete differs in the formwork device, but we will talk about this a little later. The manufacture of wooden formwork is carried out according to the scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts of sand per 1 part of cement and 4.8 parts of crushed stone. Thus, you will get concrete M400.

After pouring, eliminate the remnants of air bubbles in the mass. To accomplish these tasks, use a building vibrator or pierce the liquid mass with a rod.

At monolithic device armored belts, you should follow the rules for attaching the Mauerlat. During the installation of the frame from the reinforcement, vertical segments should be removed from it to the height determined in the project. The reinforcement rods should rise above the armored belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. It is necessary to make through holes in the beam equal to the diameter of the reinforcement, and threads should be cut at its ends. Yes, you will succeed secure fastening which will enable you to quality installation roofs of any configuration.

Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick with high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks are inferior to brick in strength. If, when arranging an armored belt on brick walls it is not necessary to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the laying process, then things are different with aerated concrete. How to make an armored belt on wooden formwork already mentioned above, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from D500 U-shaped aerated concrete blocks. Although it is worth noting right away that this technology is more expensive.

In this case, everything is extremely simple. Install the blocks on the wall in the usual way. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your house will be more durable and reliable.

If you have any questions on the topic, then ask them to the specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. There is personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.

Video

You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house from aerated concrete from the video:

Armopoyas (or reinforcing belt, as it is also called) is reinforced monolithic construction, completely repeating the contour of the load-bearing walls of the house along the perimeter and serving to strengthen them and correctly redistribute loads. Pouring an armored belt in an aerated concrete house is necessary condition guaranteeing the strength of the building. We will talk in detail about its structure, insulation and reinforcement in today's article.

If we consider the strength characteristics of materials such as aerated concrete, foam concrete, wood concrete and, then it becomes clear that these materials themselves are quite fragile, therefore, when a large load is applied to them, they can easily collapse.

In the process of building a house, the load on its walls gradually increases both from the top and from the bottom, in the form of soil movements and uneven shrinkage. The final element - the roof - also exerts significant transverse (bursting) pressure on the walls. The absence of a reinforcing belt in this case can lead to cracks in the walls of the house, as well as to their complete rupture and destruction.

The armored belt, forming a rigid frame and tying all the walls together, takes on the loads from the upper floors and the roof and evenly distributes them around the entire perimeter. The pouring of the reinforced belt is needed in places of increased seismic activity, as well as subject to additional serious loads on the building.

When erecting one-story, they start pouring the armored belt after the final erection of the walls, before installing the roof. In this case, as a rule, studs are laid in the armored belt, to which the roof Mauerlat is attached. This allows you to rigidly "tie" the roof to the box of the house.

If the house has more than one floor, then the armored belt is poured after the construction of each subsequent floor under the floor slabs and at the end, before installing the roof.

Do I need an armored belt for wooden floors

As mentioned above, the armored belt is needed to properly distribute the load from heavy floors on the walls of the building. But what if not reinforced concrete slabs or monolithic concrete are used as flooring in the house, but ordinary wooden beams, whose weight is several times less than concrete?

When building houses from aerated concrete, one can often find such an approach when walls are erected without the use of a reinforcing structure. In this case, wooden floor beams are mounted directly on aerated concrete blocks, and the ends of the beams, as a rule, go out.

Without the impact of heavy loads, such an approach may be justified, but in most cases the absence of an armored belt in such houses is a sign of the absence of a construction project. Such a structure can stand for decades without damage, but if standard loads are exceeded, the local pressure of the beam on aerated concrete can lead to the formation of cracks and its destruction.

How to make an armored belt in aerated concrete house

Before you start building a house, it is important to remember that the armored belt is reinforced concrete structure, therefore, after its installation, concrete needs at least 28 days to dry and gain brand strength. Therefore, it is important to properly plan the progress of construction so that technological pauses (of which there will be as many as there are reinforcing belts in your house) do not disrupt the progress of construction.

The width of the armored belt, as a rule, is chosen equal to the width of the aerated concrete block, but there are some peculiarities here. Hardened concrete is a serious bridge of cold, leading to heat leakage from the house, so it is necessary to provide for a thermal break that will cut off the flow of cold from the outside.

In the event that the insulation of the house from aerated concrete will be carried out outside according to the technology wet facade, then the insulation itself will be a thermal break that protects the structure from heat loss.

If the insulation of the facade is not planned, or a facade with a ventilation gap is provided, then the insulation of the armored belt must be carried out directly when it is poured. In this case mineral insulation, or expanded polystyrene or polystyrene are placed in the formwork next to the reinforcement closer to outside at home, reducing the width of the armored belt by about 5 cm.

Formwork for armored belt

The first step in creating an armored belt in an aerated concrete house is the installation of formwork. At the same stage, it is necessary to foresee what the height of the armored belt will be, with this in mind, the width of the formwork boards is selected. standard height reinforcing belt is 10-20 cm and is similar to the height of a standard aerated concrete block.

There are two fundamentally different approaches to the formwork of a reinforcing belt. In the first case, special factory-made U-shaped blocks can be used as formwork, which are ordinary aerated concrete blocks with selected U-shaped cavities.

A number of such blocks are placed on wall blocks according to the usual scheme, reinforcement is laid in them and concrete is poured. After drying, a ready armored belt is obtained, which, among other things, is protected from the formation of a cold bridge by an outer layer of aerated concrete. The thickness of the outer wall in such blocks is thicker than the inner one, which gives it the properties of thermal insulation.

Such blocks are quite expensive, so ordinary aerated concrete blocks with manually made grooves according to the size of U-blocks are often used at a construction site, since aerated concrete can be easily processed with a special saw for aerated concrete.

The second case is the traditional formwork from boards or wooden shields, how . It is mounted from boards with a thickness of 20 mm or from plywood sheets. Usually the lower edge of the formwork is directly attached to the aerated concrete from both sides, and from above it is fastened together wooden blocks with a step of 60-100cm.

A prerequisite in this case is the leveling of the formwork for the armored belt in all planes, since the filled reinforcing belt will be the basis for the floor slabs, or for the roof Mauerlat.

At this stage, it is necessary to make a power metal carcass armored belt, which will give the main strength of the entire structure. When reinforcing an armored belt, there are several basic rules that must be followed:

Reinforcement schemes for l-shaped corners and t-shaped junctions of the armored belt are shown in the figure below.

A common mistake of novice builders is the use of reinforcement with a diameter of more than 12 mm for ordinary private houses. This approach is erroneous, since the use of thicker reinforcement no longer leads to an increase in the strength of the armored belt, but increases the cost of acquiring it.

It is also recommended to use clamps for the reinforcing frame. Clamps are needed so that when pouring concrete there is no displacement of the reinforcement and its exposure. At the same stage, the laying and fixing of the insulation in the formwork takes place.

Pouring concrete into the formwork is the most important stage in the creation of an armored belt in aerated concrete house. To fill the armored belt, it is easiest to use purchased concrete. Usually, the M200 or M250 grades are used for this purpose. Its strength with a margin is enough for private construction.

It is most convenient if the concrete is delivered to the site in a mixer together with a concrete pump. Concrete pump accepts ready mix from the mixer and with the help of a long sleeve delivers it directly to the pouring point. Otherwise, concrete will have to be delivered by hand in buckets, which will increase pouring time and labor costs.

You can see how the pouring with a concrete pump takes place in the video:

If it is impossible to use factory concrete, it is kneaded by hand. In this case, you need to apply Special attention on the constancy of the ratio of components in all batches to obtain a homogeneous composition along the entire length of the armored belt.

Special attention should be paid to the fact that the armored belt must be poured at a time to avoid gaps and inhomogeneities. With a mixer, this is easy to achieve, but with manual mixing of concrete, you need to plan all the stages of pouring in advance in order to do it in one day.

After pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to vibrate the mixture using a special construction vibrator. This will bring out all the air, which, when the concrete hardens, can cause air pockets, leading to a loss of strength of the armored belt. At the same time, you should try not to touch the armature with the vibrator so as not to change its position.

After pouring the armored belt, it takes time for the concrete to gain grade strength. As a rule, it takes 28 days. After that, you can start laying the floor slabs, or installing the roof.

We hope that the material of the article was useful. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments, we will try to find the answer together.

In this article, we will figure out why we need an armored belt on aerated concrete. The basic requirements for this structural element will be considered in detail, and you will also learn how to properly make an armored belt for aerated concrete on your own.

Armopoyas for aerated concrete is tape construction from monolithic concrete, repeating all the contours of the wall of the building. In gas-block houses, this belt is a necessary element that significantly improves the strength characteristics of the entire building.

In order for the reinforcing belt not to be the weak link of the house in terms of thermal insulation, the technology provides for the creation of belts not for the entire width of the wall, but with an indent from its inner side.

In this case, the minimum width of the belt should be 25 centimeters for brick and 20 centimeters for concrete. Formed after pouring the armored belt free space filled with insulation, and closed with a fitted foam block.

We will also give reviews of builders specializing in the construction of foam concrete houses, which will help you get a complete picture of the need to equip a reinforcing frame for expanded clay concrete blocks:

Igor, 49 years old, Moscow:

For the past seven years, my team has been using building material foam concrete, I heard only positive feedback from customers about our work.

The number of fans of this material, since its appearance on the domestic market, has grown significantly. We install armored belts on aerated concrete in every house we have built.

I believe that the reinforcement frame is absolutely necessary for foam concrete, and the manufacturers' statements that the strength of the blocks is already enough for the installation of any floors do not correspond to reality. As for me, it’s better to play it safe once again and consolidate the work than to bite your elbows later.
Oleg, 45 years old, Rostov:

We build houses from gas blocks. We install the armoframe without fail, especially for hanging rafters and in order to fix the ceilings from concrete slabs. Recently built on suburban area utility room for poultry, used cinder block as a building material.

It was equipped with a brick reinforcement frame, because I am sure that the “doctor prescribed” it to be fixed to all buildings made of building materials based on foamed concrete.

2.3 Do-it-yourself armo-belt arrangement (video)