When conducting overhaul The question: how to fill the floor in an apartment is very relevant. It is important not only to level the base for finishing, but also to carry out the work as efficiently as possible without unnecessary material and time costs.

Let's consider what materials can be used to fill the floor indoors and how to save money.

Carrying out work on your own

Before starting work, dismantle the old covering to the floor level

Possessing sufficient quantity free time, you can carry out all the work on arranging the floor yourself. Work begins with cleaning the old surface.

If there is a covering, it must be dismantled to the level of the floor slabs. Not only linoleum or laminate will have to be removed, everything will be removed, including the old screed or fill. This must also be done because pouring a new screed will “eat up” the height of the room by at least 5-10 cm.

Having purchased new apartment for finishing, make sure the quality flooring. If the screed material is soft and loose (this happens when there is too much sand in the solution), the layer must be removed.

Mix the solution in small portions

Having removed the old covering, we begin to fill the floor in the apartment. To do this, you need to perform the following work sequentially:

1. Surface primer. A special solution is used deep penetration. It is necessary to treat a surface that is clean from dust and fine dirt. If there are cracks, it is better to fill them. The bottom of the walls also needs to be impregnated with soil solution. After drying, usually 2-3 hours, you can begin laying the thermal insulation.
2. Insulation. If you don’t install heated floors in your apartment, it’s still worth saving yourself from energy losses. Lay a layer of polystyrene foam, this will reduce heat loss significantly. Laying the slabs begins from the far corner of the room; the direction of laying does not matter. Lay the slabs without fixing, see which layout will result in less waste. Having decided on the cutting, secure the slabs with adhesive foam. The joints between the sheets and the entire perimeter must be glued.
3. We set up beacons. To do this, draw the zero level and, focusing on it, fix the aluminum profile on the piles of cement mortar. To avoid deviations, use building level. Beacons are placed at a distance less than the length of the rule, by a quarter. The first line is laid out 30 cm from the wall. Don’t try to increase the distance; to be sure of the level, place beacons a little more often. After making sure that the horizon of the beacons is level, we leave the solution under them to harden.
4. We do the filling. Mix the solution in small portions, in this case it will be as mobile as possible when laying out and the quality of mixing will increase. The surface of the screed is passed with a needle roller to remove possible air bubbles and make it more durable.
5. The poured floor is covered plastic film and left to harden.

You should not speed up the process by placing beacons on an alabaster or plaster solution. The beacons will harden faster, but pieces of mortar will have to be removed from the screed. As a result, you will spend much more time.

Filling methods

The process of pouring the floor in an apartment with your own hands is labor-intensive. Depending on what goals are set, it can be accomplished in various ways. In the case where there is a good rough screed, it will be enough to simply level upper layer special mixture.

Conventionally, there are 3 filling methods:

1. Thin (up to 0.5 mm) finishing layer. For better adhesion before such pouring rough screed must be treated with abrasive and impregnated with a primer. At the same time, the subfloor must be perfectly level. This type of filling does not require further coating.
2. Separate layer fill. The thickness of the screed is 2 cm. It can be laid on any type of surface, including plywood. The separating layer is made of oiled paper, laid overlapping or using waterproofing. In this way, the two layers of the floor become independent of each other. This is important when materials differ in physical properties and their responses to humidity and temperature changes vary greatly.
3. Floating fill. This type of screed is carried out for the purpose of finishing work on the floors in the apartment. The thickness of the layer is at least 2.5 cm. Here, too, a layer of insulation is laid with allowances for the walls of 0.15 m. The perimeter is laid with damper tape. After the screed has dried and laid finishing coating: laminate, parquet, linoleum, visible remains of insulating material and tapes are cut off.

Filling the floor begins from the far wall towards the exit

Carrying out work using any method, pour starting from the far, opposite wall and moving towards the exit. Level the solution using the rule between the wall and the lighthouse. Do not lean on the weight of the beacons; they are used to set the level. Use the rule to move the mixture in a zigzag manner.

Do not leave unleveled mortar on the floor; only after leveling the first batch, mix the second. Strictly observe the proportions of the solution. After finishing the work, remove all tools and close access to the room.

Ties different solutions have different time maturation. The first setting occurs on the 3rd day, final readiness - after 3-4 weeks, depending on the room temperature. To learn how to properly concrete a floor, watch this video:

It’s easy to check if the filling is ready. Place some crumpled paper napkins on the floor and cover with any utensils. If after 12 hours the napkins do not become wet, then the screed has dried out.

Pouring materials

Strictly observe the proportions of the solution

Having decided how to fill the floor in the apartment, you should choose a solution for the screed. You can buy ready-made dry mixtures or mix the cement mortar yourself.

It is important not only to know how to properly fill the floor in an apartment, but also to understand what kind of solution it will be used for.

The choice of materials is not great:

Material	Advantages	Flaws
Concrete mortar	High wear resistance Resistant to mechanical damage Long service life Not afraid of water Economical Fast ready time	Heavy Requires finishing Difficult to prepare
Cement-sand mixture	High wear resistance Durability Economical	Long drying time Requires finishing
Dry mixes	Easy to prepare Durable Easy to apply	Price Average drying time
Self-leveling floors	Ideal surface Strength Wear resistance	Price Significant readiness period

The instructions on the bags of formula are very clear. Mixing concrete yourself is quite difficult, since the proportions must be strictly observed.

The most economical and affordable option the fill is DSP. You can buy it at a hardware store, or you can prepare it yourself.

Mix M500 grade cement and fine sifted river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.

Self-leveling floors

Self-leveling floors can be leveling or finishing

Before you fill the floors in your apartment with your own hands, evaluate your financial opportunities. If the choice falls on mixtures for self-leveling floors, it is worth knowing that they are divided into leveling and finishing.

The mixtures differ in composition and order of installation. When filling the bottom layer with a branded leveler, it is imperative to use the finishing layer of the same construction brand. Moreover, the latter type can be applied to any type of base.

Self-leveling floors can decorate a room

Features of the mixtures:

• Levelers perform the function of a rough screed. They are applied along beacons, do not level themselves, and require work by rule. The layer thickness can reach 0.3 m;
• finishing mixtures are used for finalization. The layer is no thicker than 3 cm. They have good fluidity and do not need leveling. See all the details of pouring self-leveling floors in this video:

Having chosen what and how to fill the floor in the apartment, remember: the base of the floor will affect the behavior of the entire renovation. There is no need to skimp on this type of work. Changing the screed is quite expensive. This process It won’t be possible to carry it out without ruining the repair as a whole, so follow the technology and, if you are not confident in your abilities, hire professionals.

Floor leveling has only recently begun to be used in our country. Smooth flooring has high performance: it is characterized by compressive and bending strength, flexibility, environmental friendliness and increased fire resistance.

Peculiarities

A flat floor in a room is one of the main aspects in creating beauty, coziness and comfort. An evenly laid floor determines how well the coating will lie, how integrity and geometry will be maintained, and how the interior will look as a whole.

How the furniture will stand depends on the quality of the floor work. After all, if the surface is bumpy and uneven, the furniture will begin to wobble, deform, crack, in a word, deteriorate.

If you decide to renovate your apartment, then it’s definitely worth assessing the type of flooring and if its condition leaves much to be desired, consider reupholstering.

Today you can find a large number of proposals for the provision of floor screeding services. It is possible to do this yourself, saving money on the work of a master. At first, this will seem like a long and labor-intensive process, but with time, speed and skill will come.

However, the screed in correct execution few can do. Technologies are often violated and gross mistakes are made. An incorrect floor screed can no longer be used in the future.. The lifespan of floor coverings is being called into question, since bubbles and cracks cannot be corrected or hidden by cosmetic repairs.

Before you begin, you need to fully understand the process. First of all, it is worth noting that the floor should be poured after finishing the preparatory work with the walls and ceiling and only when all communications have been completed. Only after pouring, complete drying and leveling of the floor can you begin finishing work.

Wet cement strainer Suitable for use in any room and does not depend on climatic conditions. A pleasant moment can also be considered the fact that You can install a heated floor system in the screed.

Indoor floors should be poured sequentially from one room to another. This will make the repair much easier and faster. Floor screed is one of the most common types repair work.

Types of screeds

Let's look at the main types and methods of floor leveling and their variations. Floor screed is divided into dry, wet and semi-dry. The screed can be mechanized or performed with a concrete pump.

Wet screed

It is one of the most common types of floor leveling. The basis of this method is the creation of a liquid coating of concrete or cement, which, after pouring, fills the space, spreading around the perimeter. But despite the fact that such a screed has the property of self-leveling, when using it there is a need for additional processing.

To prevent the formation of air bubbles, use a roller, and for a more even result, after drying, go over the surface with a spatula.

The mixture hardens for quite a long time, so there is a risk of cracking of the surface even if reinforcing equipment is used. The undeniable advantages of this method are its strength and fire resistance, moisture resistance and relative cost-effectiveness. Mounting mixtures must be selected carefully.

Conventionally, wet screed is divided into 4 categories, which in their structure have different types formation of the final layer, and also vary in the process of surface preparation:

• Knitted. The floor is formed from a layer of the screed itself, laid on the base, and waterproofing, which is placed on the finished screed. Next come finishing materials.
• WITH self-leveling coating . A combined screed, which is based on a rough layer of concrete or cement mixture, then the layer is filled with self-leveling coating. This creates a perfectly smooth surface for finishing coats.
• On waterproofing. First, a layer of waterproofing is formed, and then the screed is laid out.
• On thermal insulation. This screed is suitable for work on soil foundations. The first layer is compacted sand, on which the insulation is placed. You can insulate a room by using polystyrene foam, cotton wool, expanded clay or polyurethane foam. The next layer is waterproofing, and then the screed itself.

Since the solution is laid out on the insulation, the screed must be reinforced.

Depending on the load the base will be subjected to, it may be necessary metal carcass or reinforced mesh. A welded frame can withstand higher impact, while mesh is more suitable for a less stressed floor. When laying insulation on a slab, you can do without sand bedding.

Dry screed

It is considered “fast” because it does not require drying of the surface, does not depend on temperature conditions and has good soundproofing ability.

The basis for creating a floor in this way is parchment or polyethylene, on which a dry bedding is laid, for example, expanded clay or perlite, leveling the base. Then plasterboard moisture-resistant boards, chipboard or plywood sheets are laid on a flat embankment. But such a screed is afraid of moisture, so it is not recommended to carry out repair work of this kind in damp rooms. Moreover, screed materials are loose and dry, which can contribute to uneven shrinkage.

Semi-dry screed

Is alternative option and promotes accelerated formation of the base floor.

The technology for laying floors using a semi-dry method is in many ways similar to wet screed. The use of water in this method is reduced or even limited, and the presence of sand in the solution is increased. Such proportions enable the material to quickly harden, but reduce its strength characteristics.

Self-leveling floors

Separated into a separate category. This type of flooring uses self-leveling mixtures made from cement-sand components and polymers. As an option, the mixture can be completely polymeric.

When pouring the floor, the material spreads in a thin layer over the surface parallel to the horizon and fills all the unevenness. The main advantage is that there is no need to spread the coating in any way; you just need to get rid of air bubbles with a roller. Most often, self-leveling flooring is used in conjunction with other types of screeds., which due to its fluidity provides a perfectly flat surface.

other methods

There are also several other, less common methods of laying floors:

• Alignment on joists. For this method, a frame of wooden logs is first specially constructed, and then they are laid out on the prepared system. chipboard sheets or plywood. This floor leveling process should be trusted to professionals, as this is a technologically complex undertaking.

• Leveling with gypsum fiber sheets. With this type of work, there is no need to mix the solution, since dry filling is laid out on the base. Then everything is leveled and gypsum fiber sheets are laid in two layers. The method is quite expensive. Such floors cannot withstand heavy loads and can sag under intense impact.

What's the best way to fill it?

If the decision is made in favor of a wet screed, then you should figure out which solution to use in the work.

Construction stores have a large assortment of ready-made flooring mixtures with mixing instructions. For example, the Knauf self-leveling mixture is very popular today. But you can prepare a solution from all its ingredients yourself.

The basis of the most popular wet screed is concrete. This construction material is obtained by mixing binders (for example, cement), fine fillers (sand or crushed stone) and water. In some cases, special additives (plasticizers) may be used.

Concrete is selected according to its grade. This is an indicator of strength, which is measured by compressing the material. To do this, small cubes of 150 mm on each side are cast and the product is allowed to harden for 28 days. The samples are then subjected to compression testing.

The letter “M” indicates the grade of concrete, and the number next to it indicates the tensile strength, which is measured in kg/cm2. Values ​​between 100 and 500 are most common. The following are types of concrete based on the average maximum strength:

• M150– this brand is well suited for floor screeding small rooms, can be a preparatory layer. Such concrete should not be used when the load on the floor is significant;
• M200– stronger concrete. High strength allows the material to serve for decades. Good brand for individual construction;
• M250– this brand doesn’t care about any mechanical influences or loads. Has increased moisture resistance.

With a value between 300 and 500, it is used to create particularly strong structures such as bridges. Such mixtures harden quickly, so working with them requires certain skills.

The selection of suitable concrete is also based on the aggregate used in the mixture. The filler improves the technical properties of the material and saves cement. The technology for preparing the solution and the method of laying it depend on the type of filler.

There are many types of filler with different characteristics and faction. The most commonly used are sand concrete and expanded clay concrete..

Sand concrete is used to create highly wear-resistant floors. Sand concrete is considered a non-shrinking mixture, which is distinguished by its high strength and is widely used in construction. A screed using such material guarantees the durability of the result.

This is a fairly plastic type of concrete, and its hardening time is short. Sand concrete is not afraid of frost, corrosion, does not allow moisture to pass through and has a high density. Perfect for sealing cracks and breaks in the subfloor. Sand concrete M300 is most often used for screeding.

Expanded clay concrete is considered “light” concrete. Its filler is expanded clay, which is granules of foamed, baked clay. Many craftsmen prefer this option to sand concrete, and here’s why:

• This is a resistant material in terms of chemical indicators. It is fireproof, not afraid of rust, and resists fungi and rot.
• The material is lightweight and has heat and sound insulation characteristics.
• Large differences can be easily leveled and allow you to create surfaces of any kind.

Expanded clay concrete after hardening must be sanded to obtain smooth coating. A screed made of this material is a reliable and durable base for the floor.

Polypropylene fiber fiber can also be added to the composition. It eliminates plastic shrinkage, which is the main disadvantage of all cement mixtures. Fiber increases the service life of the screed and provides an absolute guarantee of a smooth floor without cracks.

The cost of work will also increase.

The choice of concrete and its additives should be based on the functions of the floor structure, the type of room, and the load on the coating. The convenience of using ready-made dry mixtures is undeniable, but it is financially expensive. A budget option involves making a solution from the basic components: cement and sand.

Tools and materials

When choosing a wet screed, you should stock up the right tool, which will serve for a long time, will save time and finances. By consulting with a specialist, you can choose the optimal tool.

Below is a list of the most necessary materials that will be required to level the floor yourself:

• Water or laser level to determine the height of the screed. Although the water level is considered an outdated unit, it is still held in high esteem by builders, since it is almost always stable in readings and has an advantage in price and availability. The laser level is distinguished by its speed and ease of use. This plane builder clearly demonstrates the situation when flat surface and clearly projects laser lines.

• Beacons. The installation of beacons allows you to avoid deviations from the markings. At their core, beacons are horizontal guides and have the appearance of a linear structure. Beacons can be made from scrap materials. Since wet screed involves the use of “heavy mixtures,” the guides must withstand heavy loads, so most often durable metal is used in the design.

The use of a U-shaped metal profile is common. But it is possible to use wooden beams, which are soaked before installation. Beacons are installed approximately 20 cm from the walls. For a more even laying of the beacons, lines are drawn on the floor with chalk along which the installation takes place.

The following installation of beacons is also possible: a thread or fishing line is pulled between screws screwed in at the required level. A solution for attaching beacons is laid out along the entire length of the tension. Next, guides are pressed into the mortar slides to the level of the tensioned cord.

The process of installing beacons is quite lengthy and scrupulous. You need to measure them with a level in all directions, lengthwise and crosswise. The choice of beacons depends on the thickness of the coating, the quality of the base and the filling material.

• Rule. This aluminum device will help to level the concrete mixture along the beacons. Most often, the rule has the shape of a rectangular trapezoid, hollow inside. The longer the rule, the less frequently beacons can be installed, which will save operating time.

• Concrete mixer, mixer allow you to quickly mix the solution. The choice of one or another equipment depends on the volume of work. Due to its dimensions, a concrete mixer can become a problem, since it does not always fit into an elevator, is heavy and can be inconvenient during transportation. The advantages include independent mixing and unloading of the solution using a lever. But when unloading cement, the walls can be stained.

When using a mixer, workers are constantly involved. The mixer is more mobile. Mixing times are generally the same.

• Buckets. It is worthwhile to approach the choice of buckets intelligently, although it is consumables. Choosing a reliable bucket largely depends on the strength of the handles. For zinc metal and plastic buckets, the fastening of the handles does not allow these products to last long and become unusable by the second week of intensive use.

A high-quality plastic construction bucket can withstand loads; the attachment point for the metal handle causes virtually no problems.

But it may be possible to find such buckets challenging task, since they are increasingly being replaced with low-grade plastic, which bursts on impact.

Also rubber buckets are good to use, to which rubber is added. Experienced repairmen advise taking buckets of imported paint. This is both free and convenient, since the design is well thought out, the fastening can withstand the weight and the handle is comfortable.

• Shovel. The “American” shovel with a pointed end has proven itself well in the work.
• Container for mixing the solution. For a small amount of work, a galvanized bath with a capacity of 100 liters is well suited. Thanks to its rounded edges, the mass is mixed well and does not get stuck in corners, such as in a trough. Moreover, the trough is less durable. An ordinary bathtub is lightweight and easy to transport.

• Plaster float, trowel. It is very convenient to smooth out defects after completing all floor laying work with a float. For more advanced specialists with experience, a trowel is also suitable; for beginners, a grater is more convenient to use.

• Reinforcing mesh. Used to achieve screed strength. The best thing is to use mesh in places where the floor will be subject to special loads. In an apartment this could be the hallway, kitchen or utility room. Also, reinforcing mesh is installed in places where the thickness of the screed is of great importance.

Typically, the mesh is installed at a height of 3 cm from the base, secured and covered with coating. The mesh “sinks” into the solution.

The mesh is made from various materials, mainly made of wire that is welded or twisted. The most common option is a ready-made mesh rolled into a roll. Any hardware store will offer you this option. Laying such a mesh is simple, quick, and the material is reliable.

Reinforcing meshes are divided into two main classes:

1. extended reinforcement can be made from materials such as polypropylene, fiberglass, and dispersion reinforcement;
2. when choosing a plastic mesh, you can be sure of its resistance to corrosion, and it costs much less. You can combine several types of mesh in your work.

• Roller.
• Cord or fishing line.
• Stationery knife.
• Roulette.
• Pencil, marker.
• Solution.
• Primer.
• Waterproofing material.

Here are the main tools you should use when leveling the floor.

There are a variety of ways to place beacons, so you may need Additional materials. Above are the most common and basic tools for successful floor screeding.

Consumption

In order to have an idea of ​​the proportions in which the mixture should be prepared and to know the exact ratio of the components, it is necessary to carry out a procedure for calculating the screed consumption per square meter. From correct calculations The durability and strength of the created base depends. Calculating expenses will give a complete picture of the finances spent that will be required to purchase materials.

The main influence on consumption rates is exerted by the selected screed components. It is also worth determining the purpose of the screed, since the following factors can influence the consumption of material:

• The coating is created in a garage, basement or any other technical room.
• The coating is created from scratch, on the ground and is rough. The thickness of this screed starts from 80 mm. In such cases, it is recommended to use concrete with a coarse fraction in the composition. If you need to achieve results with lower performance, then you can get by with a cement-sand mortar and a reinforcing mesh or structure.
• The floor covering procedure assumes a finishing option with a thickness of 5 mm or more. This layer will be the basis for finishing.

For a more accurate calculation result, a number of preparatory works are carried out. First, the base is cleared, the old floor covering is dismantled and cleaned. Then the damage is assessed. After preparation, they proceed to setting the zero level.

Elevation differences affect the final coating thickness. This indicator is the determining guideline for calculating the use of materials when using the wet method of pouring a floor.

The numbers depend on the materials chosen for optimal repair work. Preferring ready-made mixtures, you don’t have to think about calculating additional components, since everything is already taken into account in the composition.

It is worth spending your time familiarizing yourself with the composition of the products, since the characteristics of the finished mixtures are very different. The packages already contain all the necessary information for calculating consumption. Usually they indicate how much material is required per 1 m 2 with a screed thickness of 1 or 10 mm.

If you need to obtain a value that takes into account a specific thickness, you can calculate it as follows:

• Calculate the area of ​​an apartment or house by multiplying the length by the width. At non-standard layout you can resort to the floor plan.
• The area is multiplied by the estimated thickness of the screed; the calculation system should be in meters.
• The value obtained by multiplication in step 2 is divided by 0.1

Example: Room area – 20 m2, screed thickness – 0.08 m, consumption ready mixture according to the composition prescribed on the packaging for 10 mm screed - 12.5 kg.

As a result, it turns out that 200 kg of dry matter will be required to fill 20 m2 with a thickness of 80 mm. Required amount water for diluting the solution is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging individually.

Traditional cement mortar for screed implies a proportion of 1: 3. This ratio assumes that 3 buckets of sand are taken for 1 bucket of cement. These are the most optimal proportions, used in many types of work.

Quantitative calculation of the mixture that will be prepared with one’s own hands is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• The thickness is multiplied by the area of ​​the room. This way we define the cubic value. For example, 40 m 2 * 0.06 m = 2.4 m 3
• If the calculation is carried out from the proportions 1: 3, then the composition is divided into 4 parts, 2.4: 4 = 0.6 m 3. The value of 0.6 m 3 is Portland cement - pure material required for an area of ​​40 m 2 and with a fill thickness of 60 mm. The remaining components account for 1.8 m3, in the traditional version this is sand.
• Considering the approximate data that a cubic meter of cement is 1300-1400 kg, we calculate the required mass. 1300*0.6 = 780 kg
• One cubic meter of sand is equal to 1625 kg. 1625*1.8 = 2925 kg.
• The consumption of water added to the dry mixture can vary from 0.3 to 0.5 liters per kg of cement. 0.3*780=234 l

It turned out next result with the initial data: for an area of ​​40 m2 with a coating thickness of 60 mm, we will need 3705 kg of dry mixture and 234 liters of water. Thus, we find that 1 m2 will require 93 kg of dry ingredients and approximately 6 liters of water.

If a filler such as a plasticizer is added to the solution, the weight of the filler is subtracted from the total volume, and then the volumes of cement and sand are calculated from the result obtained.

Fillers used in the dry mixture can reduce the consumption of cement for the screed. Accordingly, material costs can be reduced. Expanded clay, crushed stone or polystyrene can be contained in the total mass of the mixture by 40-60%, thereby reducing the proportion of cement.

Expanded clay consumption is based on the characteristics and thickness of the base. The density of this additive varies from 250 to 600 kg/m3. A solution in which the expanded clay content is about 50% of the total mass is considered the best in terms of strength and thermal conductivity.

For greater convenience and accuracy of calculations, you can use consumption calculators, which can be provided by sellers of mixtures.

How to make a screed?

For different types Screeds require their own specific material and device, but the technological requirements for all work are the same. The sequence is different, and step-by-step instructions will certainly be useful to you. Next, the wet screed method is discussed step by step.

Preparatory stage takes a little time. As with any other repair work, for a high-quality result, the base should be carefully prepared using extruded polystyrene foam.

The first thing to do is assess the condition of the foundation. It is necessary to clean the floor from the remnants of the previous screed and floor covering. To ensure productivity in dismantling the old floor, it is recommended to use a hammer drill.

A vacuum cleaner removes dust that can impair the “adhesion” of the solution to the base fabric.

The vacuum cleaner can be used for both construction and household use.

If there are cracks in the coating, they should be repaired.. For such purposes, you can mix a thick cement solution or the same mixture that will be used for pouring.

If the floor is clean, level and without significant defects, then you can proceed to next stage– primer.

Primer is one of the most important stages in creating a durable floor in an apartment, but, unfortunately, masters underestimate it positive qualities. To improve adhesion, it would be appropriate to prime the base.

Adhesion is the bonding of two dissimilar materials. The primer improves the “adhesion” of the screed to the base. Due to the fact that the primer layer removes dust from the surface, it reduces the negative impact of microparticles, thereby improving the quality of adhesion of materials. Moreover, this material seals pores and fills various voids, increasing the strength of the rough coating.

After using the primer, the structure of the base becomes monolithic. The use of a primer affects waterproofing; the base does not absorb moisture, therefore, with such a coating, the consumption of mixtures is reduced. It promotes uniform drying of the coating, thereby reducing the possibility of cracking.

Moreover, the advantages of applying a primer include strengthening properties and an effect on vapor permeability. An undeniable advantage is protection against the appearance and spread of fungus and mold, which loves a humid environment so much.

The most common type of floor primer can be considered “Concrete contact”. This primer is universal for walls, floors, and poorly absorbent surfaces such as monolithic concrete. The primer is based on glue, acrylic and quartz sand.

Before application, it is recommended to stir the mass, because the fine sand included in the composition tends to settle. This primer dries quickly, which allows you to speed up the repair work cycle. The time for complete drying depends on the brand, since different manufacturers it is different. The primer is applied foam roller or with a brush. The use of a primer greatly increases the strength of the screed and is guaranteed to reduce the possibility of peeling and cracking.

If the floor screed is done in the bathroom or kitchen, then you should definitely think about waterproofing. It wouldn’t hurt to do this in other rooms as well.

Waterproofing is used to ensure that the screed dries evenly so that water does not leak out of the cement mortar. For this purpose, in private houses and apartments, roll material is often used, including simple polyethylene film. When covering, the layer should extend 15-20 cm onto the wall, and should be laid overlapping.

Polymer mastics, which are easy to use and are sold ready for use, are gaining popularity. The coating range of polymer mastics is wide and they are used on almost any surface. It dries quickly and is expensive.

You can increase the moisture resistance of a room by using polymer-cement dry mixtures. These are, in fact, one-component plaster mixtures diluted with water. This solution is highly elastic and, when frozen, does not allow moisture to pass through.

Properly installed floor waterproofing allows you to protect the room from moisture and avoid leaks from the room.

In order to determine the filling level, you first need to measure the floor level and set it. This procedure allows you to identify the highest point of the floor level. Before you mark the level of the floor in the room and measure it, you need to draw a horizon line. This line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the room and must necessarily close together, allowing for a millimeter error in connecting the lines. The horizon is marked at a height of 1 meter from the base.

To draw the horizon line, craftsmen choose the most convenient device for themselves:

• Laser level.
• Hydraulic level.
• Spirit level.

Before pouring the floor, its base is moistened with water and passed over with a leveler. Start the pouring process from the corner farthest from the door and gradually pull it towards the exit. The solution must be laid out between the beacons and then distributed evenly over the entire surface. The mixture should completely fill the space being leveled and voids. A rule is used for broaching. Touching at least two beacons, they are slightly moved in different directions, moving towards you. The surface of the rule must be smooth and free of defects. Only with this tool can a perfectly even coating be achieved.

A laser level or level gives a clear laser outline of lines that are visible even on long distance. The quality of marking of this tool depends on its correct location. It is worth taking care of a suitable place for the device and its correct installation.

For proper operation When using the device, remove all obstacles in the path of the laser beam to avoid refraction. To avoid errors, the device is placed at the optimal distance from the walls and securely fixed on a flat surface.

Shaking and shaking of the laser level is unacceptable, since the accuracy of measurements depends on this. Bubble level, built into most models, will allow you to level the level horizontally. The task is simplified by the self-leveling function. Having fulfilled all the requirements, you can start working.

The water level (hydraulic level) works on the principle of communicating vessels. The device consists of two flasks with measuring scales, which are connected to each other by a long hose. Water is poured into the middle of each flask and into the hose. It is important to get rid of all bubbles when filling the hydraulic level.

Two people are involved in the measurement process. Having marked a height of 90-100 cm in one corner of the room, the participant attaches one scale to the mark. The second person places the vessel at the other corner. It is necessary to achieve the same indicators on both scales; to do this, the flask is moved up and down. And so the second person moves around the entire perimeter of the room. After marking the corners of the room, the horizon line is drawn using a construction cord.

A spirit level is the simplest device for checking the horizontality of planes. It is a unit with a glass tube with water mounted in the middle. There is a bubble in the tube, which is located in the middle if the plane is level with the horizon.

When the horizon line is drawn along the entire perimeter, the distance to the floor is measured from it. The zero level of the screed is determined by the minimum distance from the horizon to the base.

Next come simpler steps. The total thickness of the screed is marked from the top level of the coating. The distance from the horizon line to the mark is measured and transferred to the entire perimeter of the room. Next, we connect all the marks with construction cord. The screed will be laid out along this line.

In the same way, you can apply lines of layers of thermal insulation, bedding, and top coating used in floor screed.

When the marks are made, you can begin placing beacons. The distance between beacons should not exceed the length of the rule, which is used to stretch the mixture. The quality of the filling depends on the supplied guides. The most commonly used are metal profiles or wooden slats.

The vacated space is filled with screed mortar. The use of beacons is recommended even on small work sites. Correct use of beacon placement technology guarantees a smooth surface of the poured floor.

Preparation of the solution

Having calculated all the necessary proportions and determined the required volume of ingredients for the solution, you can begin mixing. It is worth remembering that mixing dry ingredients occurs separately from liquid ones. The process uses different containers. Using a mixer or manually, cement is thoroughly mixed with sand in the selected proportions.

The liquid components are mixed in another clean container. To achieve the plasticity of the mixture, a plasticizer is added to the water in the amount specified by the manufacturer. Most often, 200 g of plasticizer is diluted per 50 kg of cement mixture. Thanks to this component, the screed becomes more durable. It is recommended to mix the solution in portions so that it does not lose its plastic properties. Water makes up one third of the weight of cement.

Dry ingredients begin to be added to the liquid mass. This is a slow and gradual process. It is important to constantly stir the solution. Under no circumstances should liquids be poured into a dry mixture., this is fraught with the formation of dense lumps that cannot be stirred.

When the mixture becomes viscous and thick, like dough, and there are no lumps in it, you can start screeding. It may be difficult to apply such a mass, since it is easier to distribute the liquid solution. But with such a consistency, the possibility of cracks appearing is significantly reduced. To avoid cracking, experts recommend periodically wetting the surface with water during drying.

The distribution of the solution should be carried out in a short time so that its properties do not have time to change.

Fill

In a new building, you can pour the solution onto polystyrene foam, onto the ground, laminate flooring, under tiles, etc. In a Khrushchev-era building, you can use the leveler in the toilet, on the balcony, in the kitchen and in other rooms. It is advisable that the heating pipes are not turned on at full power.

It is quite possible to lay a liquid floor with glass or foam plastic using German technology on your own. It will be good basis for an electric floor that will help retain heat in the house.

Before pouring the floor, its base is moistened with water and passed over with a leveler. Start the pouring process from the corner farthest from the door and gradually pull it towards the exit. The solution must be laid out between the beacons and then distributed evenly over the entire surface. The mixture should completely fill the space being leveled and voids. A rule is used for broaching. Touching at least two beacons, they are slightly moved in different directions, moving towards you. The surface of the rule must be smooth and free of defects. Only with this tool can a perfectly even coating be achieved.

To minimize the appearance of air bubbles while laying the floor, shake the solution a little. You can use a wire to pierce the flooded floor if you cannot get rid of the voids. Beacons are removed after 24 hours.

In addition to everything mentioned above, the masters give several useful tips so that the self-leveling floor is made efficiently and reliably:

• You should not use a solution of a grade lower than 150; due to low strength indicators, the coating may not withstand the load.
• Find clean sand for cement-sand mortar in an urban environment can be a difficult task. Therefore, when choosing sand, look at it construction characteristics, and if it is not possible to purchase sifted material, do it yourself.

• When choosing a wet screed, you should not use cardboard, fiberboard or plywood as beacons, as they can easily deform under the weight of the solution.
• If the floor is leveled in several layers, the layers should be primed at each stage of pouring.
• Rolled material for waterproofing is only suitable for wet screed, but this cannot be done when using a self-leveling mixture, since such mixtures do not adhere well to the surface of rolled materials and defects such as cracks may appear.
• Cement mortar prepared after installing the beacons, since its service life is slightly less than an hour, and after hardening it will be impossible to work with the solution.
• It is necessary to mix the cement in portions so that it does not harden.

• To find out if the poured floor is dense enough, apply pressure to it while it is still wet. If a hole with liquid of decent depth has formed, then it is worth paying attention to the viscosity of the mixture and making the solution thicker.
• The rule will help check the clarity horizontal line in all directions.
• You can only step on a flooded floor if you have special shoes in which the weight is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the foot. The final coating can be applied no earlier than after 40 days, while you can walk on the dried floor within a week.
• After carrying out the main work, you should carefully monitor the drying process of the floor. Sometimes the solution is covered with a film to prevent cracks from forming on the surface.

• Within a week after finishing work on the floor, it is moistened for a stronger coating. This prevents the possibility of peeling and crumbling. You should not make puddles, you just need to distribute the moisture evenly.
• It is not recommended to open windows and allow the air temperature to drop. This may have a detrimental effect on the result.

Concrete pouring of the floor makes it possible to level and strengthen the base of the room for its subsequent cladding with other materials. However, the alignment must be done correctly. Otherwise, the concrete layer will quickly crack and become unusable. For work, you can use not only ordinary concrete mortar, but also its mixture with cement.

How to make the correct markup?

Before pouring the screed in the apartment, you must first make markings. To determine the horizontal, a laser level is most often used, although you can do without it. You can use a simple water level.

So, first of all, you will need to determine the “zero level” in all rooms of the apartment. To do this, perform the following actions:

1. Determining the location of an arbitrary mark.
2. Using a level, you need to make similar marks on all vertical surfaces(it is advisable to do 2-3 on each wall). These points should be located at the same level relative to the horizon line.
3. Now you can connect these marks with a solid line.
4. Next, the difference in height of the base and its highest point are determined. To do this, measure the distance from the drawn line to the floor along the entire perimeter of the room. The difference is the difference between the largest and smallest indicator.

Preparing for work

Filling the floor screed should be done after the right choice concrete mixture. First of all, you need to pay attention to what is written on the packaging. Since there are mixtures that are designed only for laying in a thin or thick layer. Improper use of the mortar will cause it to shrink or crack.

When choosing, you must also pay attention to the color of the mixture. It should be grey. If there are impurities of other colors, it means that the mixture contains an excessive amount of sand or clay. As for the presence of plasticizers in the material, their amount can be seen on the packaging. It is advisable not to buy material that uses PVA glue as a plasticizer. Otherwise, cracks will appear on the screed.

Features of base preparation

Before pouring the screed it is necessary careful preparation grounds. What is important is the evenness, cleanliness of the surface, as well as the absence of serious defects (cracks, weak spots). If they are, then you need to get rid of them. For example, cracks are sealed with a fairly thick cement solution, and the peeling of the previous screed is cleaned out.

Dust impairs the adhesion of the solution to the surface being treated, so it should be removed. For this purpose, a powerful household or construction vacuum cleaner. Next, the subfloor in the apartment is treated with a primer.

Now you should take care of waterproofing and insulating the room. The first procedure must be performed in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen. It is best to use for waterproofing roll materials. The technology for laying them is simple: the strips overlap each other, and their edges should extend 15-20 cm onto the walls.

As insulation, you can use not only expanded clay, but also polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, and mineral wool. In addition, you will need to strengthen the future screed with reinforced mesh(if the floor is not heavily loaded). If the base will be exposed maximum load, it is better to use a welded metal frame.

How to prepare the soil base?

First of all, it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil - fertile soil. Its height is 40 cm. Next, the soil surface is thoroughly compacted. Here an ordinary heavy log or vibration mechanisms can be used. If after treating the base there are no traces of shoes left on it, then it is compacted well enough.

• Arrangement of the first gravel layer, the thickness of which is 5-10 cm.
• Laying sand. The thickness of this layer is also 5-10 cm, but it will also have to be compacted. For better effect, you can additionally use water.
• Arrangement of a layer of crushed stone. It must have an average fraction. The thickness of this “pie” layer is about 15 cm. When pouring the stone, you must ensure that it does not stick out with sharp corners upward.

During this work, it is necessary to constantly monitor the horizontal level of the “pie”. In this case, subsequent filling will take place without problems.

How to install beacons correctly?

Filling the floor with your own hands in an apartment is done quite quickly. However, to maintain the same level throughout the entire area of ​​the room, beacons should be installed. The installation technology is quite simple:

• Choice of material. Metal profiles or pipes can be used here.
• Carrying out marking. To install beacons, you can use either a thick solution or adjustable screws.
• Fastening elements. Here we must take into account that all beacons are laid parallel to each other.

Features of preparing the solution

Before you pour the floors in your apartment, you need to make the concrete solution correctly. There are such features of the process:

1. It is best to stir the mixture using a construction mixer or a small concrete mixer to ensure that the solution is as homogeneous as possible.
2. In order for the mixture to have good plasticity, you should not add more water to it. It is better to use special plasticizers. Otherwise, the strength of the screed may be compromised.
3. The consistency of the solution should resemble a thickly kneaded dough with no lumps. That is, it should not spread.
4. You need to apply the solution in the apartment several hours in advance, otherwise it will quickly lose its properties.

Filling the floor with your own hands will not cause many difficulties if the process technology is followed.

How to fill the floor correctly?

So, the technology for pouring a concrete layer in an apartment involves the following actions:

1. The mixture prepared in advance must be poured in parts between the guide beacons. During the pouring process, the solution is pierced with a shovel to avoid the appearance of air bubbles inside the layer. For this purpose, you can use a special compaction vibrator. The processing of the base with such a device is completed after milk appears on the surface of the concrete.
2. Leveling the mixture using a rule. The tool is installed on the guides. The rule not only needs to be pulled towards you, but also moved from side to side. This way the concrete will be leveled as well as possible. Excess solution can be redistributed.
3. Removing beacons. They should be removed as soon as the solution sets. Places where there are holes must be filled with the same mixture.

Final stage

The process of pouring concrete does not end after the base is covered with a layer of mortar. The screed should not dry quickly. Otherwise it will crack. The concrete layer must harden. To do this, you need to create certain conditions:

• Must be moistened within a week concrete surface water several times a day. This is especially important if the room is hot. If concrete dries out, it will become brittle and less durable.
• Do not accelerate hardening by drafts or additional heat.
• If small cracks appear on the surface of the screed, the defect must be moistened and rubbed with concrete mortar.
• After the screed has hardened, you need to check how smooth it is. A special rule applies for this. Maximum distance between its edge and the floor surface is 4 mm.

You can check the quality of the fill by tapping it with a special wooden block. The sound should be ringing. Now even an inexperienced master knows how to fill the screed correctly. Compliance with technology is the main rule when installing screeds. Good luck!

Modern floor finishing is no longer difficult and does not require much time. Thanks also to the emergence self-leveling floors. Their correct application allows you to quickly obtain both a high-quality subfloor and a finished floor covering.

Self-leveling floors are dry mixtures from which liquid solutions are prepared that spread evenly over the surface and, when hardened, provide a high-quality and reliable coating. Depending on the composition of the mixture, such a floor can be both the basis for a future finishing coating and a ready-made design solution.

Mixtures can consist of cement, gypsum, sand, various additives that increase the plasticity of the finished coating, changing the drying time both up and down. IN decorative mixtures pigments are added.

The choice of the finished composition depends on the result of the work on filling the floor. In accordance with this parameter, self-leveling floors can be divided into two main categories.

To cope with differences and close small cracks, a starting fill is used. It is also called thick or rough.

All names have their reasons:

• such a fill is used as a basis for a finishing coating, for example, linoleum;
• the thickness of the layer of this coating varies for mixtures from different manufacturers, but should not be less than 0.5 cm;
• the mixture contains more granules and other coarse inclusions.

Note! Be sure to follow the manufacturers' requirements for the thickness of the poured floor. Only in this case can you obtain a high quality fill.

The coarse mixture helps to save thin pouring in case of minor base defects that cannot be finished poured. But thin mixtures cost much more than thick ones.

The coarse solution is thicker. The presence of large particles in the mixture does not allow us to obtain not only a strong and even base, but also a smooth base. Another type of fill copes with this task.

Mixtures of finishing self-leveling coatings allow you to get a smooth floor because they do not contain coarse inclusions. Their composition is more homogeneous. Thin filling is used where there are no sharp changes.

This type of coating is best option final preparation for laying laminate or parquet, which require a smooth base. The thickness of the layer of this fill does not exceed 0.5 cm, which is why it is also called thin. To enhance strength and elasticity, polymers are included in the finishing mixtures.

3D

There is also a type of self-leveling floors, which are an independent decorative element. This polymer coating acrylic based is applied after leveling the base. This is how a 3D floor is obtained.

Its design can be described as follows: a polymer coating is poured onto a flat base, on which it is laid decorative elements, for example, photo wallpaper in 3D format. The top of the floor is covered with transparent polymer filling. This way you will get an original design solution.

It is possible to lay all types of self-leveling coating yourself, knowing the advantages, disadvantages and nuances of pouring.

Features of a self-leveling floor

The main advantage of leveling the floor in this way is saving time, since such a screed dries very quickly. At the same time, a durable, waterproof surface is created for a long period. In addition, the weight of this screed is less than that of a classic concrete screed, and the surface of even rough pouring is smoother.

As for the decorative coating, in addition to original design, its significant advantage is ease of maintenance, strength and elasticity.

However, it is not possible to level the floor in all rooms using self-leveling mixtures: where the difference in the base is more than two centimeters, you will have to resort to the construction of another subfloor. And the price of this leveling method is much higher than that of a classic screed.

Filling requires special attention and at least basic skills in working with it, so evaluate your strengths well so that you don’t end up wasting a decent amount of money and time.

For the same reason, before starting work with self-leveling floor mixtures it is necessary to take into account some nuances.

Preparatory stage

Since any type of self-leveling floor is sensitive to the quality of the base on which it will be poured, the base for the floor must be carefully prepared.

Step 1. First, clean the base of debris, oil stains and pieces of glue. At the end of the procedure, it is better to go through with a vacuum cleaner.

Step 2. Determine the moisture content of the base. There are two options with opposite results. According to the first, water is poured onto the floor; if it is quickly absorbed, then it will be necessary to apply a primer in several layers.

Another method uses a piece of polyethylene film, the area of ​​which is about 1 m2. The room is thoroughly ventilated. The film is placed on the floor, the edges are pressed down, and central part slightly raised.

If moisture does not appear on the inside films, then minimal primer is required. Perspiration on the film indicates the need for two or three times priming. If a lot of moisture has accumulated, then you need to ensure good insulation before pouring or cancel the plan to fill the floor.

Step 3. Inspect the surface of the subfloor for chips, cracks and other defects. Gender differences are somewhat more difficult to determine.

To do this, I lay meter-long building levels along the walls, diagonally, in the central part of the room. Where there are differences, the lower end of the level is raised until it is level.

The distance from the floor to the raised end of the level will be the difference per linear meter. If this figure does not exceed 2-3 cm, then a self-leveling floor can be poured in the room.

All irregularities are corrected with cement mortar.

Step 4. Calculate the required weight of the dry mixture to fill the self-leveling floor. For every square meter of surface to be coated, an average of 1.8 kg of powder is consumed. It is necessary to multiply this coefficient by the area of ​​the room in square meters and the height of the fill layer in mm.

It will work out total weight mixture, it must be divided by the weight of one package, which is 25 kg. It is convenient to make calculations at home by looking on the Internet what the thickness of the screed should be from the mixture of the manufacturer you have chosen.

Step 5. A deeply penetrating primer is applied to the base in strips. To do this, use a roller with a textile coating. If the solution is absorbed, then the surface is covered with priming liquid again. The primed surface will become dry in a maximum of 3-4 hours. From this moment the surface is ready for applying leveler.

Pouring the floor

If you plan to lay linoleum or carpet, then all you need to do to prepare the floor is pour a rough screed. For laminate, parquet and 3D flooring, it is necessary to pour a finishing screed onto the starting layer.

Let's consider full preparation floor with a self-leveling screed from the moment when the base for pouring the floors is prepared, including coating with a primer.

Step 1. First, prepare all the tools.

You will need:

By the way, don’t forget to call an assistant, this is important, as the solution dries quickly.

Step 2.

Step 3. Start preparing the mixture. It is at this stage that you will need an assistant. According to the instructions indicated on the package, first prepare the mixture in one container.

Note! You need to pour the mixture into the water, and not vice versa.

Mix the solution for about four minutes with a drill with a mixer attachment at low speed, being careful not to touch the bottom and walls. Then let the mixture ripen for about 5 minutes and stir again.

While one mixture is ripening, you can start preparing another. At the moment the second one ripens, stir the first mixture again and pass it on to a partner. And so on in a circle.

Note! After each mixing, the mixer must be rinsed by immersing it in operating mode in a container of clean water.

Step 4.

Note! It is not recommended to fill the first strip very close to the wall so that splashes do not stain the wall.

Step 5.

Step 6.

Note! If the area of ​​the room is small, then the roller can be replaced with a homemade brush, for the manufacture of which nails are nailed to the board so that the sharp ends form “bristles”.

The entire pouring is continued until the entire floor is covered. The screed is left to dry for three days. The exact drying time is indicated on the packaging.

If you poured a thick mixture, and you plan to use laminate as a finishing material, for example, then it is recommended to fill the surface with a thin mixture. The filling technology is similar.

Correct filling floors – a guarantee of their strength, reliability and durability. IN independent arrangement gender is nothing complicated. You just need to understand the basics of the technology and complete each stage taking into account the basic rules and requirements.

First of all, you need to know that the construction of a concrete floor is a kind of “pie” consisting of several layers.

Before you engage directly in arranging the structure, you need to know that the work cannot be performed on every foundation. For example, if groundwater is at a level above 4 m, there will be a high probability of flooding of the flooded floor. In the case of pouring on the ground, it should be remembered that such work cannot be performed on moving soils.

Otherwise, you cannot count on a long service life for the floor and the house as a whole. It is important that the building in which pouring is planned is heated in cold period year, because at this time the ground, and along with it the floor, freezes. This creates additional stress on the foundation of the house and leads to its deformation. And another important limitation is that the ground on which the floor is planned must be dry.

Work can only begin after the construction of the walls and roof has been completed. This will protect future filling from unexpected atmospheric phenomena.

Mark the level to which your floor will be poured. Typically this mark is made at the level of the lowest edge of the doorway. This way the concrete floor will have the same level throughout the house.

Apply the zero point as follows:

• find the very bottom of the opening;
• up from the found place, set aside a distance of 100 cm;
• leave a mark on the surface of the wall, and then transfer it to each wall of the room;
• draw a horizontal line.

Next you need to move 100 cm down from the drawn line. Do this around the perimeter of the room. Draw a new line. This way you will find the level of the future finished concrete floor. For greater convenience, hammer nails into the floor in the corners of the room and pull the rope. This will allow you to navigate faster and easier while working.

Remove about 35cm of topsoil. The soil surface must be compacted. It is better if this is done using special vibration technology. In its absence, you can do everything with improvised means. You need to take a log, nail a flat wooden board underneath it, and convenient places secure the handles. To work with such a tool you will need an assistant. Compact the soil until it begins to show clear imprints from your footsteps.

Take into account the fact that in certain situations, for example, when a house is built on a high strip foundation, the distance between the “zero” point and the ground exceeds the previously mentioned 35 cm. In such situations, you need to get rid of the fertile layer of soil, replacing it with clean sand. The backfill must be compacted.

In the process of preparing for the installation of the floor, it is recommended to use clay backfill. To do this, just pour a small amount of clay on top of the soil and compact it thoroughly. This layer will serve as additional waterproofing. The technology of filling the floor requires mandatory backfilling.

The bedding consists of several layers. First, about 7-10 cm of crushed stone is poured. The layer must be moistened with water and compacted thoroughly. Pre-drive wooden or metal pegs of the required length into the ground. They will help you control the thickness of the backfill layer. After the crushed stone, a layer of sand is poured. It is recommended to make its thickness the same as the thickness of the first layer. Check the correctness of the backfill using the pegs you are already familiar with. Spray the layer with water and compact thoroughly.

And at the end, another layer of crushed stone is poured, still of the same 10-centimeter thickness. Carefully level the backfill and be sure to compact it. Crushed stone of a fraction of 4-5 cm is best suited for backfilling.

At each stage of backfilling, you need to control its evenness using a building level. For greater convenience, the level of each layer of backfill can be pre-marked on the walls of the house foundation.

Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the backfill. If there are no sharp edges of the crushed stone, the moisture barrier material can be laid directly on top of the backfill. You can use plastic film, roofing felt, or more modern and expensive waterproofing materials. Spread the waterproofing over the area of ​​the room. The edges of the film must be brought to the previously applied “zero” level on the surface of the walls of the room and fixed there with construction tape. The film is laid with an obligatory overlap of about 15-20 cm and taped.

Foam plastic, mineral wool, expanded clay and many other materials are suitable for this.

Most often, extruded polystyrene foam boards are used for insulation. Using this material as an example, the procedure for laying thermal insulation will be considered. Mineral wool is laid in a similar way. With “bulk” materials it’s even easier.

Plates of thermal insulation material are laid out across the floor area close to each other. Try to lay them without gaps. Be sure to seal the joints with metallized tape.

In some situations, it is not possible to perform moisture insulation and insulation on the bedding. In such situations, professionals recommend pouring a layer of liquid concrete no more than 3.5-4 cm thick on top of the backfill. All that remains is to wait until the concrete gains its initial hardness, and you can begin installing waterproofing and insulation. Thanks to the “lean” concrete, a strong connection between the backfill materials will be ensured. Concrete will also create a reliable foundation that will not damage the materials laid on top of it.

Nuances of floor structure reinforcement

Proper filling of the floor requires mandatory reinforcement. This procedure increases the strength of the structure.

The reinforcing layer consists of a reinforcement frame and/or mesh. Grids can be made of plastic and metal. Typically used metal mesh made of wire with a diameter of 5 mm and with cells of 10x10 cm. In situations where very large loads will be placed on future floors, wire of a larger diameter is used - up to 18 mm. In this case, the concrete must be compacted using special vibrating tools.

It is prohibited to place the reinforcing layer directly on the base. The frame or mesh should be raised by approximately 30-35% of the thickness of the future concrete layer. For this purpose, so-called “chairs” are small stands about 3 cm high, made from suitable comfortable materials.

What do you need to know about "beacons"?

“Beacons”, also known as guides, will allow you to fill the floor at the correct and uniform level, i.e. as horizontal as possible. Suitable for making guides metal pipes, profile, wood bars with a smooth surface. You can also use ready-made aluminum guides for this purpose. Here, decide for yourself what is more convenient for you.

Divide the floor area into several sections 150-200 cm wide. Make a number of “buns” from the solution and install guides on them. The upper edges of all beacons should be at the previously designated “zero” level. Simply press the guides into the buns or add solution to fulfill the condition mentioned above. It is recommended to lubricate the “beacons”. This will make them easier to obtain in the future. In the absence of special oil, the use of waste oil is allowed.

To control the horizontal installation of the “beacons”, use a level and a building level. You can start pouring the floor after the “buns” have reached sufficient hardness. Make sure that the “buns” are not pressed through when you press on the guides, and you can start pouring.

You can avoid dividing the floor space into separate sections using guides if the area of ​​the room is relatively small and the concrete can be poured in one go.

Step by step guide to pouring a floor

For improvement thermal insulation properties It is recommended to add perlite or expanded clay to the concrete mortar. If possible, buy, rent, or otherwise obtain a concrete mixer. Without it, it will take much longer to prepare the required amount of solution.

The weight and volume of the ingredients used will be given below. They are given as an example to make the proportions clear. Focus on the specifics of your particular case and select the required number of components taking into account the floor area and the required thickness of the concrete layer, which will vary for different climatic zones.

To begin, pour a couple of buckets of perlite into a concrete mixer and add about 10 liters of water. Mix the resulting mass thoroughly. After adding water, there will be a significant decrease in the volume of perlite. Add about half a bucket of cement and continue mixing. Next you need to add half a bucket of water and mix everything thoroughly again.

After receiving homogeneous mixture Add a bucket of sand and about 2 liters of water to the concrete mixer container. Continue kneading until you obtain a loose mass. Take a 10-minute break and then continue kneading until you get a plastic solution.

As for cement, in the case of pouring the floor, it is best to use material of the M500 grade, or M400.

Filling should begin from the corner opposite to the doorway. Try to work so that several marked areas are filled in 1-2 steps.

According to technology requirements, the concrete solution should not be in close contact with the surface of walls and various protruding structures

Fill the marked areas with the solution. As a rule, a 10-centimeter layer thickness is maintained. The solution must be leveled with a shovel. To remove excess air and provide additional compaction, the mortar should be treated in a special way. It is best to do this with a deep vibrator designed for such an operation.

The tool is immersed in the layer of solution and kept there until the so-called surface appears. "milk". Its appearance indicates that the solution is already sufficiently compacted and the vibrator can be moved to another place.

Next, the solution must be leveled using the rule. Place the tool on the guides and pull it with light movements in your direction, alternating movements to the left and right. This way you will get rid of excess concrete.

The concrete needs to be regularly moistened with clean water for several days. It should also be covered with plastic wrap. This material gains the required strength in 1-1.5 months.

Quite rarely, when pouring a floor yourself, you can immediately obtain a completely flat base, without sagging or other defects. If you are laying tiles, then there is no need to achieve perfect evenness. But if you plan to use linoleum, parquet and other similar materials for finishing, the evenness of the base will be of paramount importance.

They are easy to use and allow you to obtain mirror-smooth surfaces.

The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package, poured onto the floor and evenly distributed over its surface using a special brush. To remove excess air, the fill is rolled with a needle roller. On average, such mixtures dry for 1 week; see the packaging for the specific time. Wait until it dries completely and you can use the floor for its intended purpose.

Good luck!