Growing cherries attracts gardeners with a harvest of sweet and ripe berries. Despite the heat-loving plant, there are varieties designed for middle zone, Leningrad region, Urals and Siberia. If agricultural practices and care are followed, the crop will bear fruit in 3 years.

The tree is vigorous and loves warmth, so it is important to consider its location. It is recommended to remove cherries from neighboring plantings by 2 meters. Correct landing cherries provides:

1. Preliminary digging or plowing of the site.
2. Immerse the seedling in water for 6 hours to replenish the roots with moisture.
3. Cut branches by a third.
4. Preparing the planting hole. Dig a hole 80 by 80 cm and 60 cm deep.
5. Creation nutrient soil mixture based on 2-3 buckets of humus, half a kilo of superphosphate and a kilogram of ash.
6. Mixing the ingredient with the top layer of soil.
7. Formation of an embankment and placement of a seedling on it without deepening the root collar.
8. Distributing the root and filling the cherry tree with soil.
9. Watering and tying the plant to a pre-prepared stake.
10. Mulching trunk circle dry grass, peat, straw, humus.

Sweet cherries love fertilizing, but exceeding their quantity provokes autumn shoot formation. The optimal time for fertilization is in spring (complex minerals) and autumn (superphosphate and potassium).

Ash can be replaced with 120 g. potassium sulfate.

Site requirements

Cherries are light-loving, so it is better to plant the tree in the south or southwest of the garden. The planting site must be protected from the north wind and drafts, which will harm even winter-hardy varieties.

The tree can be planted near the southern wall of the building or on a gentle slope.

Agronomists note several points for successful tree survival.

Soil type

The culture takes root on fertile soil with good aeration and the ability to absorb moisture:

• the optimal soil type is light or medium loam, sandy loam with neutral acidity;
• the tree will not grow on peat bogs and clay soil;
• mandatory application of organic matter and minerals in the fall;
• In a planting hole on clay soil you need to add 2 buckets of sand, on sandstones - clay in the same amount.

Cherry grows on slopes, small hills, and artificial embankments 50 cm high.

To lower the soil pH, add lime or chalk in an amount of 500 grams.

Neighboring plantings

The culture is characterized by cross-pollination, so 2-3 other varieties or cherries are planted near the cherry. Reception increases fruiting, especially if the flowering dates of the trees coincide.

Humidity

The plant is moisture-loving, but stagnant water can harm the root system. It will rot in an area with a high groundwater level.

Planting dates and scheme

The optimal time for planting a crop is spring, before bud formation begins. Preparatory work is carried out in the fall - they dig a hole and fertilize it with humus. In spring, add 300 grams. superphosphate, 100 gr. sodium sulfate (the mixture can be replaced with 1 kg of ash).

Exceeding the fertilizer rate will lead to increased growth of stems, which simply will not ripen by the time of the growing season.

The exact planting dates depend on regional characteristics:

• in the middle zone and Moscow region, planting is carried out at the end of April;
• in warm areas - in autumn, before the ground freezes;
• in Siberia - before the buds begin to bloom.

The landing scheme provides:

• Keeping the cherry tree 4 meters away from other green spaces will prevent mutual shading. Columnar varieties are spaced 3 meters apart;
• digging a hole 14 days before spring planting - for soil shrinkage;
• soil sorting - the fertile layer is separated from the deep layer, tilting it in the other direction;
• selection of pit sizes taking into account root growth - the width should be 60-100 cm, and the depth should be 60 cm;
• Cherries are not planted deeply; the root collar is slightly raised above the ground line;
• making a hole and forming a cushion around the edges, watering (1 bucket of water) and mulching.

It is recommended to shorten the crown of a two-year-old seedling along the central axis, but only during early planting.

Do not add nitrogen compounds to the planting hole to avoid burning the roots.

Pit preparation

Type preparatory work depends on the timing of planting and soil type.

Autumn planting

When placing cherries in the ground in the fall, the area is prepared in 14-21 days. It needs to be dug deep, add 10 kg of compost, 180 g. superphosphate and 100 gr. saltpeter per 1 sq.m. You can do liming of acidic soil or tillage special means for cherries and cherries 10 days after the main additives.

Spring planting

If planted in the spring, the hole is also prepared in the fall, taking into account the weather. From October to November, the area is dug up and humus or compost is added. After the snow melts and the soil dries out, minerals, including nitrogen, are added. Cuttings are planted after 7 days.

The first set of fertilizers applied during planting is enough for 3 years.

Preparing clay and sandy soil

The organization of a planting pit for soil saturated with clay or sand has been carried out over several years:

• in the first year, digging is carried out, clay or sand is added;
• Over the course of 3-4 years, the site is fertilized in the fall or spring.

14 days before planting, prepare the hole.

Parameters and preparation of the seat

Due to the growth of tree roots, the planting hole is made wide (up to 1 meter) and deep (from 60 to 80 cm). A support peg is placed in the center. Pour into the bottom of the pit nutrient substrate in the form of a slide around a support. The soil mixture is compacted and covered with deep soil, which is leveled. 2 buckets of water are poured into the ground and left for 14 days to shrink.

Choosing a cherry seedling

Cherry seedlings resemble cherry trees, but differ in several ways. They are tall, have erect branches, and reddish-brown bark. To successfully grow a tree, you need to take a responsible approach to choosing seedlings.
The optimal plants would be two to three year old plants, 80 cm in length, with 2-3 strong shoots, smooth and healthy bark. When purchasing, consider:

• appearance of the root system. Formed, branched roots without damage and dry shoots will take root in the soil faster;
• appearance of the central trunk and side shoots. The central trunk should be clear, straight, with lateral branches. The more there are, the easier it will be to mold the crown;
• presence of a vaccination mark. High-yielding varietal plants have a mark on the trunk.

Vigorous seedlings take longer to acclimatize.

Buy plants in a container or wrap them in a damp cloth and plastic bag when transporting.

Planting cherries

Planting work is carried out in stages:

1. In the spring, 60 grams are added to the prepared hole. potassium sulphide, 100-120 gr. superphosphate and mix them with soil.
2. A support for the tree is placed in the hole, and unfertilized fertile soil is poured into its center, forming a hill.
3. A prepared seedling is installed in the middle of the hill (can be planted with container soil) and the roots are carefully distributed.
4. The cherry is tied to a support peg and earth is gradually added, compacting it with hands.
5. The tree is watered abundantly.
6. The tree trunk circle is mulched with peat, leaves, and humus.

When planting, do not forget that the root collar should not be lower than 3-5 cm from the ground.

Watering and removing weeds from cherry trees

An adult tree and young seedling Regular watering is required. During the growing season, water is added at least 3 times:

• before flowering;
• in midsummer;
• in the fall along with the last feeding.

Applying water in winter before the onset of cold weather helps saturate the soil with moisture.

It is worth watering cherries so that the water goes into the soil 70-80 cm. After watering, the tree trunk circle is loosened and mulched.

Cherries - cultivated plant, which is contraindicated in the close presence of weeds. They are removed with a hoe, annually expanding the trunk circle from 20 to 50 cm. For a one-year-old tree it is 80 cm, for a two-year-old tree it is more than a meter.
In the first year of planting, the soil should be kept in a state of black steam, completely destroying weeds. The cleaned area is covered with mulch.

Pollination

The tree is cross-pollinated. To ensure good and regular fruiting, 2-3 other varieties of cherries or cherries are planted. You can lure bees with sugar or honey dissolved in water. The composition is sprayed with a spray bottle or a broom from a bucket.

Cherry feeding: spring and winter

In the case of good pre-planting fertilizer, the tree does not need subcortex for the first 3-5 years. In the future you will need to enter:

• organic matter - 10 kg of manure, poultry or compost in the fall;
• minerals - superphosphate in September to prepare the plant for wintering;
• nitrogen supplements - for two-year-old plants in dry form and in liquid form in May;
• phosphorus and potassium - in the 4th year of growth in mid-summer.

During the last feeding, you need to focus on external signs - yellowing and falling leaves. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil when digging with a 10 cm deepening.

Cherry care

Maintenance work is carried out annually.

Spring care

Activities begin with spring warming. The insulating material is removed from the trunks, and the branches are inspected for damage. The wounds are treated with garden varnish, and the dead material is cut off.
After the end of frost, for a tree 3 years old, urea (120 g) is added, which must be scattered near the tree and buried to a depth of 10 cm. It is allowed to water the tree trunk in May - you will need 20-25 g. urea per 10 liters of water.
Trees over 3 years old are fed with ammophoska and humus. To strengthen the bark, granulated potassium sulfate and superphosphate are used.

Sweet cherries are demanding when it comes to fertilizing, so the dosage must be calculated taking into account the age of the tree:

• 1-3 summer plant 40 gr is enough. ammophoska per 1 sq.m.;
• 4-5 summer trees 120-150 gr is enough. superphosphate per 1 sq.m.;
• A 10-year-old cherry tree requires 150-200 grams. urea, 100 gr. potassium, 200 gr. superphosphate per 1 sq.m.

An adult tree requires 30-35% more additives than a young tree.

In spring, it is advisable to carry out preventive treatment against pests with fungicides and urea. The last component in the amount of 500 g. per 10 liters of water is used before bud formation begins. The procedure helps to delay flowering, which preserves fruit ovaries during return frosts. Faded cherries are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture according to the instructions.

Caring for cherries in autumn

Fall care activities include:

• adding superphosphate during digging (60 g) and ash (500 g) per 1 sq.m.;
• fertilizing before frost with organic matter - humus in the amount of 20-30 kg per tree;
• sanitary pruning – broken, diseased and weak branches with an angle of less than 45 degrees are removed;
• processing of cuts with garden varnish.

Pre-winter watering must be carried out between the end of October and the beginning of November. Adding 6-10 buckets of water percolating 50 cm into the soil increases winter hardiness and yield.

When feeding, focus on the projection of the crown, imagining it in the form of a square.

Spraying cherries in autumn

First autumn processing must be performed 3 weeks before harvest ripening. The second, in October-November, helps prepare the garden for winter. After leaf fall, you can start spraying with chemicals. Gardeners recommend copper or iron sulfate, urea, urea, diesel fuel or ZOV.
Chemicals are sprayed evenly from a compressor or pump. The substance should cover the cherries in the form of an even dew. Spraying requires careful treatment of the entire tree. Before harvesting, the leaves must be coated with a fungicide (insecticide) on both sides.

Preparing cherries for wintering

An adult tree overwinters without shelter. It is enough to whiten it, feed it, add water and mulch the tree trunk circle.
Young seedlings must be covered. This will protect them from freezing. Artificial materials are not suitable for winding - the cherries rot in them. Spruce branches and burlap will ensure normal air circulation.

Autumn whitewashing

Painting cherries with lime in the fall promotes:

• protecting the bark from burns by the February and March sun;
• preventing frost damage and cracking of the bark surface during temperature fluctuations;
• destruction of pest larvae hidden in the bark.

Both young and old crops are whitened in October-November. The trunk of the tree is processed from the root collar to the skeletal branches. You can cover the lower skeletal branches by a third. The solution is prepared from 2 kg of lime, 400 g. copper sulfate, 1 kg clay, 1 kg fresh manure. There should be enough liquid so that the composition resembles low-fat sour cream.

Collection and storage of cherries

The berries are removed from the tree after the characteristic signs of ripening appear, but in a solid state. To preserve juiciness, work is carried out in the morning. The fruits are removed together with the “tails” - this way they are stored longer and are not damaged during transportation.

Use buckets and pour the berries out of them onto a cloth - this makes it easier to sort them.

Before storage, cherries are not washed so as not to remove the wax. How the blanks are made:

• placed in paper bag on the bottom shelf or fruit compartment in the refrigerator (temperature plus 1 degree);
• dried in an electric dryer;
• stored in trays covered with a lid;
• put in the freezer, packaged in plastic bags, from where air is previously removed;
• canned - stays in the cellar for up to 1 year;
• make jam - store in a dark place.

Fresh berries are stored from 48 hours to 5 days in a cool place, 3 days without refrigeration, subject to storage conditions - from 5 days to 3 weeks.

GOST notes the optimal environment for storing fresh cherries: temperature from minus 1 to plus 2 degrees, humidity 90-95%.

Growing cherries in the country or in the garden requires certain care rules. Only if you follow them will you get a good harvest and be able to pamper your family delicious berries or sell them.

Reliable varieties

Fatezh

Chermashnaya

Leningradskaya black

Sinyavskaya

Tyutchevka

And the way

Tree size

Good placement.

Strengthen the trunk.

growing cherries

Cherries growing cherries

Fig.1 Cherry blossoms

2. Planting cherries

The best time for planting cherries

3. Cherry feeding

The first years after planting cherries

Carry out crown formation cherries

planting cherries.

Choosing a cherry seedling

Choosing a landing site

Soil preparation

Watering and weeding

Pollination

Preparing cherries for wintering

Autumn whitewashing of cherries

Young seedlings need shelter. Don't wrap them around artificial materials(lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.

Even inexperienced gardeners can grow cherries in central Russia and other regions. By choosing the right seedling and planting site, as well as following simple care rules, you can harvest an excellent harvest of juicy and sweet berries every year.

Categories:// from 09/10/2019

10 Sep

How to grow cherries in central Russia

Once upon a time, these sweet fruits were the privilege of southerners. But nowadays, summer residents Central Russia They can also grow cherries.

IN last years the dreams of many summer residents of Central Russia about their own cherries are becoming a reality: after all, winter-resistant varieties of cherries have already been bred and successfully “tested”, and agricultural technology has been worked out.

Reliable varieties

In the Moscow region, the Fatezh, Sinyavskaya and Chermashnaya varieties bred in VSTISP (Moscow) proved to be the most persistent, grateful and attractive to gardeners. Iput, Tyutchevka, Revna, obtained at the Lupine Research Institute (Bryansk), are also good. Leningradskaya black, Mulatka, Teremoshka, and Severnaya also show good winter hardiness in our conditions.

Fatezh- the most winter-hardy cherry variety. Thanks to this remarkable quality, it bears fruit in all years favorable for cherry harvest. It produces medium-sized amber-pink fruits (up to 4.5 g), very tasty, with sweet, juicy cartilaginous pulp.

It quickly begins to bear fruit and produces a high yield in the presence of pollinators (any simultaneously flowering cherry varieties will do). The trees are quite compact, with a spreading crown, and fit well into the landscape of even small summer cottages.

Chermashnaya- the earliest ripening variety, ripens in the Moscow region already on June 15–20. The fruits are bright yellow, with juicy melting pulp, and taste like sweet grapes.

Plants with increased winter hardiness, resistant to fungal diseases. Fruits well only when pollinated suitable varieties(Fatezh, Iput). Birds love this variety: a week before ripening, the trees must be covered with fine mesh.

Leningradskaya black- winter-hardy variety of medium ripening period. Needs a pollinator. The fruits are dark cherry, almost black. The pulp is dark, tender, sweet, with slight acidity and noticeable bitterness, with a pleasant taste.

A good variety for growing in the south of the Non-Black Earth Region and the north of the Central Black Earth Zone. The variety is winter-hardy, weakly affected by diseases and pests. The tree is medium-sized, productive.

Sinyavskaya- the largest-fruited variety of Moscow selection. The fruits are dark red, with colored juice, with a small seed, and a sweet, rich taste. In terms of taste and impressive fruit size, the variety is close to southern cherries.

Less winter-hardy than previous varieties, but has a high regenerative ability. IN favorable years without strong ones winter frosts And spring frosts and in the presence of pollinators, it shows very high yields - up to 30 kg per tree. Due to its vigorous growth, annual pruning and the formation of a compact crown are very important for this variety.

Tyutchevka- one of the most winter-hardy varieties of Bryansk selection. The fruits are quite large, dark red, almost black when fully ripe, with a sweet dessert taste, in some years with a slight bitterness. In the conditions of the Moscow region it shows good stable yield - 10–15 kg per tree from the 5th year after planting. Trees of this variety are unusually beautiful during the flowering period and when the fruits ripen.

And the way- an early variety, ripens in the Moscow region in the third decade of June. The fruits are dark red, quite large, with dense pulp of sweet taste. As with other early varieties, timely protection of the crop from birds is necessary. Heavy rains during ripening can cause massive cracking of the fruit.

Revna is a reliable variety of medium-late ripening. The fruits are medium size, dark red, with colored juice, pleasant sweet taste. Valued for its high yield and taste. Due to its late ripening, this variety suffers less than others from birds, but can be damaged by the cherry fly.

Northern cherries have the same sweet and tasty fruits as the southern ones, but they are somewhat smaller and ripen later than the southern ones. The earliest varieties of cherries near Moscow (Chermashnaya and Iput) begin to ripen in mid-June.

You can enjoy them until the end of June, and in early July they are replaced by the Sinyavskaya, Leningradskaya Chernaya and Fatezh varieties. The fruits of the Revna and Tyutchevka varieties ripen simultaneously with mid-ripening cherry varieties.

Tree size

Many potential owners are concerned that the cherry tree will grow into a very tall tree. Indeed, in the south it can grow up to 10 m and even more. But in the conditions of the Moscow region, without pruning, cherry trees can grow up to 5–6 m. Which is also a lot - the harvest from such giants is available only to birds.

If you want small-sized cherries, ask for seedlings on weak-growing clonal rootstocks LTs52 or VSL2. Next, you will have to systematically prune and form a compact crown - it is easier to harvest from trees up to 2.5–3 m high and protect it from birds.

Four conditions for growing cherries

Sweet cherries in Central Russia require more careful attention from gardeners than traditional fruit crops. To “make friends” with her, you need to fulfill 4 important conditions.

Choose the right variety and rootstock. In the garden you need to plant several mutually pollinating and simultaneously flowering varieties (at least 2-3), because it is very important that the flowers are pollinated. For successful overwintering and abundant fruiting, you need to select seedlings of recommended varieties with an increased reserve of winter hardiness, grafted onto frost-resistant clonal rootstocks.

Cherry trees grafted on clonal Izmailovsky rootstock grow well and bear fruit regularly. They do not sprout, thus do not clog the site, and their lifespan is at least 20 years.

Good placement. It is very important to choose the right place for planting: it should be located at the top of a gentle slope in a southern or western direction. There should be enough sun and protection from strong winds.

Strengthen the trunk. When planting, be sure to drive a strong stake into the soil and tie the seedling to it. In the first years, the above-ground part of the cherry tree grows very quickly, and root system can't keep up with her.

In the second half of summer, long shoots with large leaves enhance the windiness of young trees. Without additional strengthening, the plants bend and, with strong gusts of wind, can break at the surface of the soil (a perfectly fused grafting site does not prevent this from happening). If the planting site is poorly protected from the winds, then it is advisable to preserve the supports until the trees are 4-6 years old.

Protect from winter sunburn. To protect from the winter sun, the trunk will have to be whitened or wrapped with white before wintering. non-woven material.

Cherry is considered a fairly demanding plant in terms of light and heat. It is afraid of cold air and favors sunny places at higher elevations. The site must be protected from northeastern and northern winds. The best place For growing cherries there will be a south and southwest side of the buildings. She will also feel comfortable among mature trees.

Cherries prefers warm sandy loam fertile soils and grows very poorly on peat bog, heavy loamy, gley soils. It is worth noting that for growing cherries completely unsuitable acidic soils. Neutral, slightly alkaline (pH 7-7.3) and slightly acidic are much more suitable for her. Cherry does not tolerate stagnation of water, but at the same time it loves a large amount of moisture. Does not survive well in the presence of close groundwater.

1. Cherry varieties most suitable for central Russia

Breeders have created a fairly large number of cherry varieties that grow well and bear fruit in the middle zone. It includes the Moscow, Bryansk, Kaluga, Ryazan, Smolensk, Tula, Vladimir and Ivanovo regions.

1.1 Early ripening varieties of cherries:

Iput is a self-sterile variety whose pollinators are Revna, Raditsa, Bryanskaya rozovaya and Tyutchivka. It has high winter hardiness of flower buds. The fruits are very sweet and juicy and almost black in color. Their weight reaches almost 10 grams.

Raditsa. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 5.8 grams.

Sadko. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and rarely crack, reaching a weight of up to 8 grams. It has a dark red color.

1.2 Mid-early and mid-ripening varieties of cherries:

Revna. Its pollinators are Iput, Raditsa and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 7.8 grams.

Tyutchivka. Its pollinators are Iput, Raditsa, Revna and Ovstuzhenka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 5.4 grams. In the years since high humidity fruits may crack.

Astakhov's favorite. Its pollinators are Iput, Raditsa and Tyutchivka. It is also considered partially self-fertile. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing more than 5 grams.

1.3 Late-ripening varieties of cherries:

Lena. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and obtusely heart-shaped, dark red in color, weighing up to 8 grams.

Bryanochka. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, dark red in color, weighing up to 7 grams.

Bryansk pink. Pollinators for it are Iput, Revna and Tyutchivka. The fruits are sweet and juicy, Pink colour, weighing up to 5 grams.

All varieties begin to bear fruit 3-5 years after planting. They are also winter-hardy and resistant to coccomycosis and some other fungal diseases. For full fruiting, it is necessary to have at least 3 varieties of cherries in one area.

Fig.1 Cherry blossoms

2. Planting cherries

The best time for planting cherries is early spring, until the buds bloom. Thanks to this, the seedling will have time to take root well and gain vitality to survive the first winter.

The planting hole should be dug 10-12 days before planting in the spring or prepared in the fall. The optimal depth is 60-75 cm, and the width is 70-80 cm. The dug-out fertile soil layer is mixed with humus and superphosphate (200 g) and potassium sulfate (100 g) are added to it. The hole is then filled with this mixture.

It is very important to remember that cherries do not tolerate deepening of the root collar. Therefore, when planting, it is worth raising it by 3-4 centimeters, because in the near future the soil will settle and the root collar will deepen a little.

After planting, you need to form a moat around the cherry seedling and water it generously with a bucket of water. It is advisable to re-water after a week.

Fig. 2 How to properly deepen the root collar of cherries

3. Cherry feeding

The first years after planting cherries there is no need to apply fertilizer, since everything necessary was placed in the hole along with the soil. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizing begins in the 3rd year after planting. Superphosphate (40-60 g/m2) and potassium chloride (20-30 grams) are added once every 3 years when digging the trunk circle no later than mid-September.

Nitrogen fertilizers applied every spring, starting from the 3rd year after planting cherries. These include ammonium nitrate (20 g/m2) or urea (15 g/m2). You can learn more about mineral fertilizers here.

Organic matter should be added once every 2 years, 3-4 kg per m2. This is best done in the spring when loosening the tree trunk circle. If you apply these fertilizers later, the growth of new shoots may stop, and they will not have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather.

Also, after fruiting, you can sow green manure plants around the tree trunk, which, together with the soil, will be dug up in the spring and, thus, all the necessary substances will begin to nourish the tree much earlier, especially considering the fact that they will begin to overheat under the snow. You can find out more interesting information about green manure plants from this article.

4. Pruning cherries and crown formation

Carry out crown formation cherries expedient in early spring, until the buds swell. At the same time, one should not forget about treating all cuts with garden varnish. This must be done in order to prevent gum formation, which can lead to infection. various kinds diseases and even death of the tree. Also, don’t forget about whitewashing the tree trunk in spring, and you can find out how to do it correctly here.

The cherry tree has a natural crown shape - from pyramidal to round, but when pruned it is most often made into a sparsely tiered crown with a trunk height of 60 to 80 centimeters. The first pruning of shoots should be carried out a year after planting cherries.

During this period, a crown of 5-6 skeletal branches (first order) is formed. In the first tier, 3 branches are left, 2 of which can be placed adjacent, and the third is 20-25 centimeters higher than the first two.

In the third year, it is advisable to lay the second tier of skeletal branches at a distance of at least 60 cm from the upper branch of the first tier. In the same year, 2 second-order branches should be formed on each first-order shoot. To form second-order branches, it is necessary to shorten the first-order branches by approximately 20 centimeters after their length reaches 70 centimeters. Second-order branches are located at a distance of at least 50 centimeters from the trunk and from each other.

The third tier is usually formed from a single shoot at a distance of at least 30 centimeters from the second tier. In this case, it is recommended to cut the central conductor above the branch of the third tier no earlier than a year after its formation.

Cherries are valued by gardeners for their high yield and unsurpassed taste of the berries. Many people consider this crop to be too demanding in terms of growing conditions, but this is a misconception. In order for cherries to develop well and bear fruit abundantly, the planting and care of which are covered in detail in our material, you only need to choose the right variety, protect it from frost and ensure timely watering and fertilization.

Sweet cherry is the closest relative of the sour cherry. Thanks to new, cold-resistant varieties, it is possible to grow cherries in central Russia and northern regions, despite the southern origin of the crop.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and the Moscow region, the following varieties produce good harvests: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:

• Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;
• The bark of a cherry seedling is brown with reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

Growing cherries will be successful if the seedling for planting is chosen correctly. His age should not exceed three years (optimally two years). The recommended height of the purchased seedling is at least 80 cm, and it has 3-4 strong shoots. There must be a grafting site on the trunk, which indicates the varietal identity of the seedling. Bark healthy plant smooth, without signs of disease or freezing.

Cherry seedlings from the nursery prepared for transplanting

Root system planting material The cherry tree is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If the root system of the seedling is very dry—a light brown core is visible when cut—the seedling can be revived. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

Cherries bear fruit well in a sunny area on the south side

This fruit crop does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, even short-term. Planting cherries in central Russia should be carried out in areas with deep groundwater. Otherwise, soaking the roots will lead to a delay in the development of the tree, and subsequently to its death.

Soil preparation

Cherries develop and bear fruit well on fertile loams and sandy loams with neutral acidity. The soil should be well aerated and saturated with moisture. Peat bogs, deep sandstones and heavy clay soils are not suitable for growing cherries.

It is necessary to prepare the area where you plan to plant the tree in advance. The site is dug up in the fall, adding organic matter (manure or compost) and mineral fertilizers(superphosphate and sodium sulfate). If you need to reduce the pH level of the soil, add about 500 g of lime or chalk.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Sweet cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. Optimal timing spring planting in open ground- end of April, before the buds swell.

When planting a cherry orchard, a distance of at least 3 meters must be maintained between plants. A hole for planting is dug two weeks before planting so that the soil is sufficiently settled. Fertile layer surface soil is tilted in one direction, and deep soil in the other. The size of the hole should ensure free placement of the root system in it - a depth of approximately 60 cm and a width of 60-100 cm. It is not recommended to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers and lime to the planting hole, as they can cause burns to the roots.

Preparing a planting hole for cherries

At the bottom of the planting hole, a mound is formed from fertile soil, on which the seedling is installed. The root neck of the cherry tree should not be deepened. It should be at ground level or slightly higher. After planting, you need to water the tree abundantly and mulch the tree trunk.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvesting

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional care.

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

It is recommended to grow several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application organic fertilizers which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers (superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

Cherry trees are pruned in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring, sanitary pruning is also carried out, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To deter them, you can buy special nets for fruit trees, and summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to the trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Protecting cherry fruits from birds using old computer disks

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant residues. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To protect cherries, early spring (during bud swelling) spraying with a urea solution is used as a preventative measure. Prepare a solution from 10 liters of water and 500-600 g of urea. They treat not only the branches, but also the soil in the tree trunk circle, thereby destroying the insects wintering there.

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

Cherry affected by clasterosporiosis

To combat the main pests: sawfly, mites, aphids, they are treated with Karbofos, Askarin, Fitoverm, Novaktion. Spray the trees during the period of bud opening and bouquet separation. During the same period, prevention of clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and other diseases is carried out with a 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Mature cherries, planted and cared for according to the rules, tolerate winter well without shelter. It is enough to whiten the base of the trunk and skeletal branches, add 150 g of superphosphate to the soil in September, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Also in the fall it is necessary to carry out abundant saturating watering.

Gone are the days when cherries were grown only in the southern regions. Now varieties have been developed that allow residents of the Moscow region and even the Leningrad region to enjoy berries from their garden.

• Read about.

Choosing cherry varieties

When solving this important issue, it is necessary to pay attention to the flowering period of the tree and the fact that many varieties are self-sterile. That is, for good fruit setting, it is necessary to plant not one, but at least 2 trees different varieties, which would bloom at the same time. A photo will help you see what this beautiful tree looks like, although who hasn’t seen it in person...

In the southern regions, warmth sets in early, so flowering trees there are practically not affected by frost. In cooler areas, early ripening varieties may be susceptible to this problem as cherries bloom in the spring. But, if you want to taste the berries as early as possible, then, during frosts, you can cover the cherry trees with non-woven material, make smoke fires near them, etc.

1. Homestead yellow. Fruitful, winter-hardy cherry. The fruits have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is self-fertile.
2. Orlovskaya amber. Winter hardiness is average, the variety has good yield, and is resistant to coccomycosis. The average weight of tasty, large yellow-pink fruits is 5.5 g.
3. Iput has excellent winter hardiness, is resistant to coccomycosis, and is partially self-fertile. The fruits weigh 6–9 g, dark red, almost black in color. Growing Iput cherries is preferred by many gardeners.
4. Raditsa. The fruits ripen very early. The variety is winter-hardy, high-yielding. To obtain fruits that are dark red in color, it is necessary to plant a pollinating variety nearby, since this variety is self-sterile. The tree is low-growing and has a compact crown.
5. Chermashnaya has high winter hardiness. Fruits weighing up to four and a half grams are yellow in color. The berries are sweet and juicy. The variety is self-sterile, has good performance resistance to fungal diseases.
6. The trees of the Ovstuzhenka cherry variety are low, with a spherical dense crown. The fruits weigh an average of 5 grams and are dark red in color. The variety is winter-hardy and productive.

Mid-season cherry varieties:

1. Fatezh. Winter-hardy, high-yielding variety. The tree is medium-sized, self-sterile, with a spherical-spreading, drooping crown. The fruits are pink-red and shiny. The taste is sweet and sour.
2. Pobeda is a productive variety that is resistant to fungal diseases. Winter hardiness is good. The fruits are large, excellent taste, red in color.
3. The cherry variety Revna is winter-hardy, partially self-fertile, and has excellent resistance to coccomycosis. The fruits have a sweet taste, dark red, almost black, and do not crack when ripe.

Late ripening cherries, varieties:

1. Tyutchevka is winter-hardy, resistant to moniliosis. The tree is medium-tall with a spherical, semi-spreading crown. The fruits are dark red in color, large, weigh 5.5–6 g, and have excellent taste.
2. Revna is a partially self-fertile variety, highly resistant to coccomycosis. The tree is pyramid-shaped and medium-sized. The fruits are almost black in color - dark burgundy, and have an excellent taste.
3. Bryansk pink is one of the most late varieties. Resistant to diseases. In the fifth year it begins to bear fruit. The tree grows to medium size. The fruits are pink on the outside and light yellow on the inside, and do not crack.

Planting cherries

Like many fruit trees, cherries can be planted in autumn and spring. Each term has its advantages and slight disadvantages. In the spring, you need to have time to plant a cherry seedling before the heat sets in. In the middle zone it is the end of April. That is, the period is short. But in the fall it lasts longer. At this time, cherries are planted from the beginning of September to the end of October. It is necessary that the seedling has time to take root before the onset of frost, then it will overwinter better.
It is important to choose the most optimal place in the garden. Since the cherry tree is a guest that came to us from the south, it is necessary to plant it where it will be warm. You need to choose a place that is not exposed to cold northern winds. It is better to place the seedling on the south side of other garden trees. Also, on the north side, the tree can be covered by the wall of a building or fence. The place for growing cherries should be well warmed by the sun; shadows from other trees should not fall on it.

In the lowlands the tree will feel uncomfortable. Usually there is a high groundwater level, so the roots of the tree will become damp, and the tree itself may die.

Once you have decided on the location, you need to consider the timing of planting cherries. You can't even plant winter-hardy varieties, if the air temperature is below 0°C. At the same time, when planting in spring, it is necessary to carry out work before the buds swell. Therefore, autumn planting is most optimal. However, if you purchased a young seedling with a closed root system, then it can be planted almost at any time - from the end of April to the end of October, but it is better to do this when there is no extreme heat, then the cherry will take root better.

The hole for the seedling is dug in advance, this will allow the soil to settle. It is made large - with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 70 cm. 2-3 buckets of well-ripened compost, humus, or a combination of these organic fertilizers are poured here. Minerals also need to be added. Pour 200 g of double superphosphate and 150 g of potassium sulfate into the hole. Mix mineral fertilizers with organic ones, shape the humus and compost into a mound. Place the seedling on it, straightening the roots. Drive a peg nearby and tie a tree to it.

Fill the hole with fertile turf soil. Carefully water the cherry seedling with 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Press this area with your foot, placing the sole perpendicular to the seedling - with the toe towards it. Make sure that the root collar is at soil level.

This completes the planting of cherries. Of course, it is better to carry it out in cloudy weather; if the morning after planting it is hot, cover the seedling with non-woven material. If you are planting several trees, maintain a distance of 3 m between them.

Formative pruning of cherries

It is necessary to trim off excess branches and shape the tree annually, since cherries grow rapidly. This is done only in early spring, before the buds have yet opened.

Until the tree begins to bear fruit, its annual shoots are shortened annually by 1/5 of their height. When the cherry tree enters the fruiting stage, shortening pruning is stopped. Only branches that grow incorrectly are cut out - directed towards the crown, half of the shoot is removed if two branches form an angle of less than 50°. It is necessary to cut out diseased, dry branches.

To increase the yield, the following technique is used: the sharply growing branches are bent so that they are at an angle of 90° from the trunk. To do this on the branch young tree hang weights or tie the ends of branches to pegs driven into the ground.

Cherry care

It is imperative to weed the ground under the crown, since cherries do not like weeds. Gradually increase the diameter of the trunk circle. In the second year it should be 1 meter, after another 3 years 150 cm. This entire area should be cleared of weeds.

Cherries are watered and then fed three times a season. This should be done this way: first loosen the soil around the tree trunk, while simultaneously choosing weeds. Then, in several steps, water the tree with water heated in the sun, then water it with a nutrient solution.

During the initial period of bud break, 5–8 g of urea are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the tree is watered with this fertilizer. You can notice this organic fertilizer by diluting 800 g of manure in 10 liters. water. Make sure that the fertilizer does not get on the root collar, otherwise it may rot.

The next step is to apply 2 mineral fertilizers to the cherries - the first - during the budding period, the second - at the beginning of fruit set. For this fertilizer, dilute 1 glass of ash and 30 g of double superphosphate in 10 liters. water.

For better pollination, you can spray the flowers with a sweet solution, placing 1 tbsp. l. liquid honey in 1 liter. water. Bees will flock to the smell, and the harvest will be plentiful.

Cherries - fruits garden tree, whose homeland is Ukraine, southern regions of Europe, middle Asia and the North Caucasus. Cherry fruits have a powerful beneficial effects on the human body, therefore they have been used in treatment since ancient times.

Sweet cherries are often compared to cherries, but in fact they are healthier and have a mild taste and pleasant aroma. In addition to heat-loving varieties of cherries, there are also frost-resistant ones, which gardeners have adapted to grow in mid-latitudes.

The best varieties for the middle zone

Not all varieties of cherries are suitable for growing in the middle zone, since the fruit ripening time is quite long. All varieties grown in mid-latitudes can be divided into three types according to the growing season:

1. 1. Early varieties. Ripe fruits of early varieties can be collected already in the second half of June, i.e., about a month after flowering. Early ripening does not mean that the fruits are not large, juicy and healthy enough.

To obtain high cherry yields, it is not enough correct landing. A young plant, like a child, requires constant care. Mandatory care items include fertilizing, watering and:

1. 1. Fertilizers. 2-4 years after planting a tree in the spring, you need to apply 0.02 kg of urea per 1 sq.m. soil around the plant.

Starting from the fruiting period, organic fertilizers are added to the urea - 10 kg, superphosphate - 0.06 kg, potassium chloride - 0.02 kg or wood ash - 0.2 kg.

At 7-8 years of tree life, the mass of organic fertilizers is increased to 15 or 20 kg. After 5-6 years, liming is carried out with 0.4-0.8 kg of slaked lime per 1 sq.m. soil. Lime is scattered and dug up immediately; this should be done in the fall.

1. Watering. Excess moisture can lead to plant disease, but this does not mean that it should be abandoned altogether. In a dry season summer time, it is recommended to water the cherries, especially on the eve of fruit ripening. In autumn, the frequency of watering is greatly limited, and when there is frost, it stops altogether.
2. Trimming. This is an annual event, as a result of which dry branches growing inside the crown are removed. All shoots that violate the symmetry of the crown are also cut off. When a tree ages and the quality of the fruit decreases, it is necessary to prune the branches of the first order, i.e. growing from the trunk. All cuts must be treated with garden varnish to eliminate the possibility of infection entering the tree.

As a result of performing these simple, but very important operations, you will be able to enjoy the juicy bright fruits of cherries from the very beginning of summer until mid-August.

Watch the video in which experienced gardeners will tell you how to grow and feed cherries in the middle zone:

Cherry is one of the most ancient fruit plants, loved by many for its wonderful berry taste and health benefits. It was known 2000 years ago; the Romans gave it the name “Curasunta fruit”.

Cherry is a capricious tree, it has many nuances in cultivation, and a gardener needs to know: when and how to plant cherries correctly, what varieties to choose and how to achieve abundant fruiting.

The sweet cherry is considered the closest relative of the cherry. Many people confuse cherries and cherries; only in 1491 did botanists determine that they are different cultures, although they belong to the same family, Cherry is often called “bird cherry”, and in Europe even Chekhov’s famous play is called “The Cherry Orchard”.

The tree can reach up to 20-30 meters in height, blooms profusely, and the flowers appear before the leaves. Breeders have bred and dwarf varieties up to 3-5 meters, which provides more convenient fruit collection.

The color of the fruit varies depending on the variety: yellow, pink, dark red. According to the condition of the pulp, it is divided into 2 types: bigarro - with hard pulp and late ripening and guini - with soft pulp and early fruiting. Cherry is self-sterile; for pollination it is necessary to plant 2-3 other varieties nearby. The Iput cherry is especially good for pollination.

The lifespan of a tree is about 100 years, but most often it is used for 15-20 years. Cherries can produce up to 25-30 kg of fruit per tree in a short fruiting period. There are 4,000 varieties of cherries in the world, of which 46 varieties were created by breeders from Russia.

When to plant: autumn or spring?

It is believed that the cherry is a tree that is more suitable for the south of the country, since it is very vulnerable to low temperatures and freezes slightly during the first permanent frosts, but nowadays, thanks to the efforts of breeders, the cultivation of cherries has become possible in other regions.

Cherry varieties have been created that correspond to different climatic conditions, are resistant to freezing and begin to bear fruit at the right time for a given region.

In the southern regions, cherries are planted mainly in autumn during leaf fall. Spring planting threatens the seedling high temperatures already in March - April, with dry winds and a large number of pests. In the fall, the tree manages to take root well and by spring it is already a strong plant, especially since there are no severe frosts in the winter in the south.

For the Central regions of Russia, Siberia, Far East It is recommended to plant cherries in the spring so that over the summer the seedling becomes stronger and takes root. Spring for planting a tree has another undeniable advantage: throughout the summer, the gardener monitors the development and condition of the plant every day. He will be able to quickly take the necessary measures in case of drought or excess moisture, pest attack or plant disease.

Preparing berries for planting in spring

Variety selection

A mistake for many cherry lovers is choosing a variety that is not zoned for a given region. Gardeners are seduced by beautiful descriptions, bright labels and do not take into account the survival rate of seedlings, the effects of climate and biological features cherries.

This is especially true in areas with harsh and long winters. Moreover, when choosing a variety, it is necessary to take into account not only sub-zero winter temperatures; changes are very dangerous temperature regime in spring – recurrent frosts.

For the death of seedlings, a decrease in temperature after a thaw to -2°C is sufficient, if it does not high level winter hardiness. Experienced gardeners in this situation additionally use smoke from fires.

The yield can also be affected by the composition of the soil in a given region, the duration and intensity of daylight hours, and the presence of stable cold winds.

The result is small yields, freezing, poor taste, and sometimes the death of the plant.

central region	Siberia	Far East	Leningrad region, North-West region
Pink sunset	Tyutchevka	Sakhalinskaya	Leningradskaya black
And the way	Symphony	Rechitsa	Zorka
Italian	Revna	Ordynka	Revna
Beauty Zhukova	Bryansk pink	Bigarro Bulat	Bryanochka
Valery Chkalov	Fatezh	Francis	Bryansk pink
Teremoshka	Northern	Dragana yellow	Rechitsa
Revna	In memory of Astakhov	Ariadne	Teremoshka
Bryanochka	Kozlovskaya Michurina	Sweet pink	Fatezh

For the Leningrad region and Northwestern regions No special zoned varieties have been bred; gardeners successfully grow the most frost-resistant and unpretentious varieties intended for the Urals and Siberia.

Now 2 varieties are being developed for this region - Seda and Yurga. A serious disadvantage for growing cherries in these areas is the cold winds from the Baltic Sea.

Planting dates for different regions

Requirements for soil and planting site

The soil for cherries should have a breathable structure, well heated, moderately moist, and slightly acidic.

The groundwater level is very important, since already at a level of 1.5 m from the surface of the ground gum begins to flow and the cherry dies. It is preferable to plant it on loam, rich nutrients, are absolutely not suitable peat soils, clay, sand.

It is better to choose a planting site for cherries on the southern and southeastern slopes, well warmed by the sun. Lowlands from which water does not drain for a long time are not suitable for it; in addition, it must be protected from northern winds.

Soil preparation

When planting in the fall, the soil is completely dug up 2-3 weeks before planting, adding humus at the rate of 10 kg per 1 sq. m. meter.

When planting in the spring, the soil is prepared in the fall by digging it up and adding fertilizer. Many gardeners prepare planting holes in the fall.

If the land on your site is not suitable for planting cherries, then this can be corrected. IN clay soil sand is added, and clay is added to the sandy one. Additionally, add soil mixture, which is sold in specialized stores, manure or humus. The soil is dug up and after a few years it is ready for planting cherries.

Light mode

Cherry is very demanding on light conditions. It feels good next to low-growing trees, forming a crown in the middle and upper tier for better absorption of sunlight.

Shading cherry trees in gardens with high fruit trees leads to the fact that fruiting switches to the upper branches, the fruits become smaller and their number decreases. For cherries, it is better to choose an open, sunny and warm place. For better crown lighting, annual pruning is used.

1. High air humidity is contraindicated for cherries; the fruits begin to crack and rot, but excessively high dryness leads to the fact that the leaves begin to fall off.
2. Sweet cherries do not tolerate proximity to walnut, rowan, pear, peach, black currant. Apple, plum and cherry trees are recommended as neighbors.
3. The distance between trees should be at least 4-5 meters, due to the highly developed root system of the surface.
4. Once every 5 years, the soil around the cherry tree must be limed.
5. Do not buy 3-year-old seedlings, they practically do not take root.

When planting cherries, care must be taken to protect them from birds. Otherwise, most of the berries will be pecked and not suitable for use. To do this, many people hang shiny, rustling foil ribbons or old computer disks on the tree. As a rule, this does not help, therefore, it is necessary to prepare a mesh net (50x50 mm) in advance and throw it over the cherries during the period of fruit ripening.

Preparing the planting hole

Early planting can destroy the seedling due to recurrent frosts, and delay can lead to prolonged survival due to high sun activity. The best time is mid-April, before the buds begin to awaken.

Preparation instructions:

1. The hole for planting cherries should be 80 cm wide by 100 cm and 70 cm deep; narrowing the hole downward is unacceptable. With such dimensions of the hole, the root system should fit freely in it. A stake is driven in nearby - a support up to 80 cm high for tying the seedling.
2. The planting hole is filled with a nutrient mixture to 1/3 depth: 2 parts of the top layer of soil; 1 part humus; 1 part peat; 100g superphosphate; 50g potassium sulphide;

You can use another composition for the mixture: 2 buckets of compost, 1 kg of ash and 400 g of superphosphate. Nitrogen fertilizers are not added to avoid root burns.

The hole is filled with the mixture 10 days before planting, mixed, the composition should settle.

Preparing a seedling before planting

The further development of the plant depends on the selection and preparation of the seedling:

1. The seedling must be grafted and have a strong trunk that dominates the side branches.
2. You should not buy a seedling with a forked trunk; under the weight of the fruits, they may break in the future.
3. It should have a developed root system without defects, with roots 15 cm long. If the cut of the root has a brown tint, then this is a sign of frostbite.
4. A day before planting, the seedling is placed in a bucket of water to activate the root system.
5. Before planting the seedling in the planting hole, cut off damaged roots.
6. Long roots are trimmed, since the root system must completely enter the planting hole.
7. Before planting, remove all leaves, otherwise the seedling will dehydrate.

Step-by-step planting instructions

1. Pour a bucket of water into the planting hole.
2. Place the seedling in the recess of the hole next to the support; the neck of the seedling should be 4-5 cm above ground level.
3. Cover the roots with soil.
4. Compact upper layer and secure the seedling to the support with soft tape. The figure-of-eight loop is made loose so as not to damage the tree bark.
5. Make a circular depression around the perimeter of the hole for watering.
6. Pour out 2 buckets of water, make sure that after the soil settles, the root collar is at ground level.
7. Trim the main trunk to 80 cm, and the side branches to 50 cm. This is necessary to form the correct crown.
8. It is advisable to plant cherries in cloudy weather.
9. Seedlings take root best when they are 1-2 years old.
10. To attract bees, mustard is planted next to the cherries, experienced gardeners spray the tree with a solution of water and honey

Further care for cherries

Watering

Cherries require watering 3 times per season: in May during the period of growth of green mass, before flowering, in June, when the fruits begin to ripen, and before winter.

20 days before harvest, watering is stopped, otherwise the fruits will crack and rot. Watering is carried out to a depth of up to 40 cm, and pre-winter - up to 70-80 cm. In dry weather, the frequency of watering is increased. In the second half of summer, watering is not recommended, as this reduces the tree's frost resistance.

Top dressing

Fertilizing should not be applied in the first year, since the seedling received all the necessary substances during planting. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied during the 2nd year of tree growth. In the spring, 120 g of urea should be scattered around the perimeter of the tree trunk, embedded in moist soil.

In the fourth year of growth, the roots will extend beyond the trunk circle, so fertilizers are applied further from the trunk into the furrows made. In the spring, 120-200 g of urea are placed in moist soil, at the end of summer - 400 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium sulfate.

The width of the trunk circle is increased to 1 meter in the second year, and 50 cm is added every year. Cherry trees respond well to additional fertilizing with ash.

Throughout the summer until autumn, weeding and loosening of the tree trunk circle is necessary, since cherries cannot stand being in the vicinity of weeds.

Crown formation, pruning

Cherries require mandatory annual pruning, otherwise there will be no good harvest. It comes in 3 types: formative - in spring, sanitary - in autumn, and rejuvenating when the tree ages. For all options, it is mandatory to remove branches 40 cm from the ground. When pruning, the cut areas are treated with garden varnish.

Formative pruning creates the correct crown, this is especially important for young cherries. Before the buds open, shorten the main trunk and upper branches by 1/3 of the length, cut out the branches growing inward, leaving only those that grow at an angle of 45 degrees in relation to the trunk from the side shoots.

This type of pruning is called cupping. She gives good lighting for the tree, stimulates fruiting and simplifies harvesting.

Sanitary pruning involves removing dried, broken, diseased branches.

Rejuvenating pruning helps cherries to restore productivity

Diseases of young cherries

Sweet cherries are quite resistant to diseases, but there are exceptions. Verticillosis – fungal disease for many stone fruit crops, it is also dangerous for cherries.

First, the bark bursts, then the flowers fall off, the leaves turn yellow and gum appears on the trunk. You can use drugs such as Polychrome, Fundazol, Topsin. Clean the cracks and cover them with clay and 2% copper sulfate. But, as a rule, treatment is ineffective; the tree dies within a year.

During a cold and rainy spring, cherry trees may be damaged by bacteriosis (tree cancer). It is not possible to save cherries; scientists have not yet created a remedy against this disease. The tree must be cut down and burned.

Errors during cultivation

Error	Cause
Buds do not bloom in a timely manner	The root collar is buried during planting
Reset of ovary and foliage	Untimely watering during the growing season
Freezing of a tree	Incorrect variety selected for this region
There is no regular and abundant harvest	No annual pruning
Lack of fruits	No cross pollination
Cracking of trunk bark	Sunburn, the trunk was not whitewashed in spring and autumn
Gum discharge, tree death	Rocks, crushed stone in the soil, diseases
Yellowing, purplish coloring of leaves after planting	Irrigation with cold water from wells
No side branching	The trunk was not trimmed during planting

Cherries are not only tasty, they are also very healthy.

It regulates cardiac activity, “fights” anemia, helps improve immunity and lowers blood sugar levels, improves vision and relieves irritability.

Women especially appreciate cherries for their properties to rejuvenate the skin, relieve swelling, and the ability to use them in various diets.

Growing cherries is a labor-intensive process, but the tree will thank you with a bountiful harvest.