The comfort of living in a private house largely depends on how correctly the floors are assembled. To install the basement floor, you can use the most different materials. But most often the floors in country houses assembled from boards. Quite rarely, but still sometimes they are made of concrete. IN Lately Various types of self-leveling mixtures have also become very popular.

Wooden covering

Using boards is the best answer to the question of how to make a floor in a private house. The wooden covering looks very impressive, is practical, highly maintainable and lasts a long time. To install such a floor, you will first need to prepare the following materials:

• Edged board with a thickness of at least 2.5 cm.
• Waterproofer. You can take a very thick plastic film or roofing felt.
• Thermal insulator. Rigid slabs are considered the most suitable option for floor insulation. mineral wool. However, you can also take more expensive polystyrene foam. Also, floors in country houses are often insulated with sawdust or expanded clay.
• Beams for logs are purchased only if these elements were not installed during the construction of the house. In any case, their thickness should be at least 15 cm.
• Vapor barrier. This material will prevent the insulation from getting wet due to condensation forming from the side of the room.

You will also need to prepare a hammer or screwdriver, nails and screws, and steel angles.

Wood flooring assembly

So, let's see how to properly make a floor in a private house from boards. In order to install a wooden covering, the first step is to carefully level the ground. Next, a thin layer of sand is poured. You can skip this step if you wish. Then roofing felt is laid. The overlap between strips should be at least 15 cm.

The distance between the lags should be equal to the width of the insulation. Mineral wool slabs are installed by surprise. A vapor barrier is placed over it. The overlaps in this case must be at least 15 cm. The vapor barrier can be secured with slats (two per joist on either side).

On final stage boards are installed. They should be well dried and planed on top. In addition, they must be treated with an antifungal compound. When assembling, the boards should be adjusted as closely as possible to each other. Otherwise, during operation, gaps may form between them, the floor will begin to creak, etc.

Which varnish to choose for wood

You can finish plank floors using almost any means. For example, polyurethane varnishes are very popular. Their advantages include, first of all, environmental friendliness and the fact that they are not afraid of even very serious loads. Also, quite often, floors are covered with detergents. acrylic base. They are not very resistant to various types of mechanical stress, but they are easy to apply and are very inexpensive. You can use alkyd, quick-drying varnish or very durable epoxy to cover a wooden floor.

Ceiling above the ground floor

Many owners of suburban areas are interested, among other things, in the answer to the question of how to properly install a floor in a private house with a basement. In this case, the wooden covering is assembled using approximately the same technology. The only difference is that you will first need to fill the boards from below, from the basement side. On them, just like on the ground, a waterproofing material is laid, and then insulation.

How to make a concrete floor in a private house

This option can also be used in a country building. Most often, concrete floors are made in utility rooms Houses. They are filled in as follows:

• A shallow pit (10 cm) is dug in the room.
• Its bottom is leveled and compacted with a hand roller.
• Sand is poured in a layer of 5 cm. It also needs to be compacted.
• A reinforcing mesh is laid on wooden blocks.
• Beacons are displayed.
• The concrete mixture is being poured.

It is better to start laying the solution from the corner farthest from the door. It is advisable to do the filling in one step.

Poured concrete floors will gain strength no earlier than in two weeks. After this period, you can start walking on them. However, heavy furniture or household appliances should be brought into the room no earlier than after a month.

Finishing

Of course, it's just concrete covering- this is not only ugly, but also not very convenient. Therefore, such floors are usually topped with tiles or thick linoleum. The second option is also used in living rooms, if for some reason concrete floors are poured in them. Tiles, like in a city apartment, are used to decorate the toilet, shower room, hallway and kitchen. They attach it with special glue.

It is better to lay special linoleum on a concrete floor - with a warm underlay. Pin it to cement coating It will, of course, be quite difficult. Adhesive tape is definitely not suitable in this case. Therefore, the canvases can simply be laid loosely, securing them with plinths around the perimeter. Sometimes linoleum is also glued to concrete using a special mastic.

Warm floor

“What is the best way to make a floor in a private house?” - the answer to this question is, of course, ambiguous. Using boards or concrete mixture is a simply wonderful solution. However, the so-called “warm floors” are still considered the most convenient and practical. Concrete screed in the residential premises of a country building is often done precisely during their arrangement. In this case, dense slabs of insulation specially designed for such systems are installed on the sand. Then pipes are laid on them according to the scheme. Next, everything is filled with concrete mixture.

Composition of cement mortar

Thus, you now know how to make a warm concrete floor in a private house. When performing this procedure, it is important to use properly prepared cement mortar. If for a regular concrete floor, in addition to sand, crushed stone is also taken as a filler (in the proportion of 1x3x1), then when pouring pipes for a “warm floor” system, it is not used. In this case, the percentage ratio of binder and filler should be 1x3 or 1x4.

How to pour a concrete floor on a basement floor

So, we have figured out how to make a floor in a private house. Now let's see how you can arrange the flooring in the basement. In this case, it is very important to pay maximum attention to waterproofing. Instead of sand, it is better to line the bottom of the pit with crushed stone.

Otherwise, the answer to the question of how to make a floor in the basement of a private house is extremely simple. Filling is done in the same way as in rooms. If, for example, a car is to be driven into the basement, the reinforcement must be tied as strong as possible. The rods for it are taken with a thickness of at least 12 mm.

Self-leveling coating in a private house

Next, let's see how to make a floor in a private house using a special self-leveling mixture. This method of installing coatings in country buildings has recently become very popular. Making such a floor is easier than even making a concrete one. Besides self-leveling coatings, Unlike cement screeds, can be very beautiful.

So, how to make a poured floor in a private house correctly. This operation is performed as follows:

• Done concrete base. The method of filling it is no different from that described above.
• The surface of the finished screed is dust free. If the concrete floor was poured a long time ago, it will most likely need to be touched up.
• The surface is being primed.
• Using a hammer drill, the filling mixture is diluted with water.
• The solution is applied to the primed base in small portions and carefully leveled.
• Immediately after pouring each portion, the solution must be passed with a needle roller to remove bubbles.

The finished floor should be covered with plastic film. In this case, it will gain strength better.

As you can see, using a self-leveling mixture is a very good answer to the question of how to make a floor in a private house. A photo of such a coating with a 3D pattern, presented a little lower, clearly demonstrates its attractiveness and reliability. You can make such a coating, including with your own hands.

3D self-leveling floor

The pouring technology in this case will be the same as when arranging a simple polymer coating. But in this case you will need to make two layers. A base coat is first applied to the prepared screed. Next, a mosaic is laid out from pebbles or some artificial materials. You can also use a pattern on self-adhesive film. In this case, the base base is pre-primed.

At the final stage it is applied finishing layer polymer floor. After it has gained sufficient strength, it should be varnished.

Well, we hope we have answered the question of how to make floors in a private house in sufficient detail. The methods for assembling them may vary depending on the materials chosen. But no matter what method the home owners choose, everything must be done carefully, adhering to the required technology. In this case, the floors will last as long as possible and will look neat.

A smooth and reliable floor in a private house or cottage is the key to warmth and comfort in the building all year round. Often at the stage of building a private house, owners are faced with the problem of choosing a flooring device. Therefore, in our material we will tell you how to properly make this or that type of floor with your own hands. At the same time, we will look at the pros and cons of each device option. For clarity, we also offer a video.

Floors: types

Mainly during the construction of a private house or country cottage The most commonly used types of flooring are:

• Wooden floor on joists on the ground;
• Wooden floor on supporting pedestals;
• Wooden floor on cement screed;
• Concrete floor;
• Dry screed.

The advantages of a wooden floor are that this coating is completely environmentally friendly and retains heat well. But at the same time, wood requires high-quality waterproofing. Otherwise, over time, even larch or teak logs will require replacement.

Concrete flooring is considered one of the strongest and most durable. And the monolithic nature of the coating does not allow all kinds of living microorganisms to penetrate into the house. However, concrete is enough cold material. Therefore, when installing such a floor, you will need additional insulation. Yes, and you need to level it carefully.

Dry screed floors - a new solution in the world construction technologies. This material perfectly insulates the room and allows you to lay any covering on top.

Important: when installing any type of floor, it is necessary to carefully align all layers of the “pie”, otherwise the floor will turn out skewed.

Wooden floor on joists on the ground

This type of flooring in a private house or cottage is made with your own hands if wood is preferred. Moreover, making such a floor is not at all difficult.

• So, if we build a house floor on joists on the ground, we will first have to carefully prepare the foundation. To do this you will have to remove upper layer turf to a depth of 5-7 cm around the entire perimeter and replace it with a layer of sand. The sand is well leveled and compacted.
• A layer of fine crushed stone 10 cm thick is poured on top of the sand. It also needs to be well leveled and compacted.
• A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of such layers of the cake. It can be just oilcloth, roofing felt, or a membrane.

Important: the joints of the material of our pie must be well secured with tape, and the edges of the waterproofing must be thrown over the foundation walls.

• Now you can lay the logs in increments of 60-80 cm. In this case, you need to make a gap of 2 - 3 cm between the foundation walls so that the wood can expand freely. We fix the logs to the foundation walls using special guide plates. If you need to raise the logs a little, they can be placed on special racks that can be adjusted in height. You will need to make special holes in the wood for them.
• If you plan to make a permanent warm wooden floor from boards, then you need to lay thermal insulation material between the joists. These can be mineral wool slabs, simple expanded clay or expanded polystyrene. Such thermal insulation must be laid in the free space between the joists. We get a kind of construction pie.
• We fasten the subfloor boards on top of the support beams. You can also simply make an additional sheathing, on which you can later lay the finishing floor covering.

Important: when installing any wooden covering It is necessary to make small gaps between the walls and the edged board. This allows the tree to expand freely under the influence of temperature changes.

Wooden floor on supporting pedestals

With your own hands, at the dacha or in a private cottage, you can also make a wooden floor on joists that will rest against the supporting pedestals. This is done if it is necessary to raise the floor, level it, or simply the area of ​​the room is large enough. In this case, even the guide plates will not be able to withstand the load that will be exerted on the wooden floor from the boards

• In order to make a floor on supporting pedestals, it is necessary to prepare the base. To do this, you need to dig holes in the ground for support pillars. They are made at a distance of 100-120 cm from each other. In this case, the cabinets closest to the wall should be placed at a distance of 40 cm from the foundation walls.
• The depth of the holes should be 40 - 50 cm. Pour a 10 cm layer of sand into the recesses and level it well. After this we compact the sand.
• Pour a layer of crushed stone on top of the sand and level it too. Then we ram it. We place a piece of roofing felt on top of the crushed stone. Such a pie is required when laying a foundation.
• We insert metal rods into the hole and fill it with concrete mortar to a height of 30-40 cm. To prevent the mortar from spreading, we first form the formwork.
• After the foundation has set well, you can lay out the brickwork to the desired height.

Important: at all stages of column construction it is necessary to level them. Otherwise, the floor will turn out skewed. In addition, it is worth considering that the pillars must have a cross-section of at least 50x50 cm.

• We install special fasteners into the columns, onto which we will attach logs from edged timber.
• Roofing felt is laid on the pedestals for reliable waterproofing tree. Otherwise, without this layer of cake, in a few years you will have to replace the joists.
• The beams are attached to the posts using special pins and holes made in the wood for them. Or using special plates.

Important: if the length of the log is not enough for one span, then the beams are made from edged wood. In this case, you need to ensure that the joints of the two logs meet on the central pedestal and extend beyond each other by 15-20 cm. And do not forget about the space around the support pillars. It is better to cover it with expanded clay in a layer of up to 15 cm. In this case, the layer of such a cake must be carefully leveled with your own hands.

If the finishing coating (edged board or lining) is in one layer, then the subfloor must be filled with expanded clay completely flush with the joists. If you are planning a subfloor, then you can leave the insulation in this condition and lay second or third grade boards on top.

Wooden floor on screed

• First of all, you need to level the base well if there are differences in height. This can be done using a self-leveling mixture.
• Next, you need to make a layer of waterproofing by laying roofing felt or oilcloth on the floor. In this case, it is advisable to push the edges of the material onto the walls.
• We mark the floor with stripes for laying joists. The distance must be at least 60 cm. Sometimes 80 cm is possible if the room is small.
• In the planned strips, three pieces per strip, we install studs that will hold the wooden joists.
• You need to drill holes in the wood for the studs.
• We install the logs on the studs and level them in height. The locking latches must be pulled to the required level and removed into the hole in the tree. We cut off the edges of the studs with a grinder.

Important: do not forget to leave gaps between the edges of the beams and the wall. This will allow the wood to expand freely and not become deformed. Otherwise, over time, the curved beams and floor will need to be replaced.

• The space between the support beams is covered with insulation (expanded clay, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene).
• A finishing covering of sanded boards is installed on top of the joists or a subfloor is made from sheets of plywood. Subsequently, any floor covering can be laid on it.

Concrete floor

• In a private house along the entire perimeter ( living rooms, kitchen and utility rooms) remove soil 5 cm thick. The base is well leveled and compacted, slightly moistened with water.
• A layer of sand is poured on top, which is also slightly moistened and compacted. Allow the cake layers to dry.
• Now you can fill rough screed mixed with gravel or expanded clay instead of sand. It is poured onto the sand and leveled well. Allow to dry completely.
• Placed on a rough screed waterproofing layer. It is better if it is roofing felt, but you can also use 250 micron oilcloth. All joints are connected with tape, and the edges of the covering are thrown onto the foundation walls.
• To insulate the floor in all rooms, including the kitchen, you should lay insulation (expanded clay or extruded polystyrene foam).
• After this layer of cake, reinforcement is laid on the floor and a finishing screed is made. It is leveled according to the installed beacons and dried for at least a month.

Important: on a screed arranged in this way in a cottage, you can make any floors from wooden boards to laminated panels.

Dry screed floors

This technology is good for installing a floor with your own hands in any part of the house (including the kitchen). The dry screed is based on the following materials:

• Expanded clay of fine fraction;
• Slag;
• Quartz, perlite or silica sand.

Such bulk materials are perfectly distributed over the floor after leveling and practically do not shrink. The floor lasts for many years and perfectly retains heat in the house (in the kitchen and living rooms).

Make a dry screed like this:

• Waterproofing is laid on the prepared and compacted base, pushing its edges onto the walls.
• Wooden bulkheads are installed on the waterproofing in increments of 60-80 cm. In this case, it is important to mount beacons along which you need to align the screed with your own hands.
• The dry mixture is poured onto the floor and leveled using the rule.
• They complete the installation of a dry screed with their own hands on the floor of the house (in the kitchen and rooms) by installing plywood slabs. In this case, they should be laid level, moving from the door and wall deep into the room.

Important: in order for the plywood to lie flat, it is necessary to lay the first slab correctly. The rest will already be adjusted to the same level as the first.

Each of us dreams of building a spacious house, in solitude with nature. And of course this house should be made of natural and natural materials. A wooden house is perfect for a quiet and relaxing stay. During construction wooden house The main thing is to pay special attention to the floor design.

In order not to disturb the harmony, beauty and naturalness, the floors should also be made of wood. Many people know that houses made of wood have a healing and beneficial effect.

The floor structure must be reliable and have effective protection against heat loss from the house. Today we will look at floor designs in wooden house.

Floor characteristics

Regardless of what the house is built from, the floor must have the following characteristics:

It should also be taken into account that the load on the floor, first or ground floor should be calculated from an average value of 2100 Newtons per 1 square meter.

Types of floors

For wooden houses, the two most common types of floors used are concrete and wood. Now we will look at the pros and cons of each.

• Concrete floor. The advantages include the speed of the process, especially if you have a concrete mixer. Insignificant price, which is the cost of sand and cement.

The ability to do the work with your own hands, without professional skills. With all these advantages, we get a finished, smooth surface a month after final drying concrete screed.

The disadvantages include the large mass of the floor, which puts pressure on the foundation. Not suitable for every type of foundation; it requires careful calculation of the load on the foundation and soil.

And secondly, since our house is made of wood, vibrations of the walls occur (narrowing - expansion), this has a bad effect on the concrete surface, stress zones, chips, and cracks appear.

• Wooden floor. The advantages include the fact that wood is environmentally friendly pure material. Floors made of wood in a wooden house are harmony, naturalness and sophistication.

Not required when performing work special devices. The disadvantages are slightly greater than those of concrete floors. The main disadvantage is the cost (high).

The second drawback is the complexity of the installation technology; assistants will be required. It may be necessary to involve specialists, and this additional expenses. When laying a finished floor, it is difficult to achieve perfect flat surface. Strict adherence to the technology of the floor installation process.

Installation of a wooden floor in a wooden house

We have described the pros and cons of two types of floors. With a concrete floor everything is clear. Moreover, a wooden house should have a wooden floor.

Unedged boards or sheets of multi-layer plywood, chipboard, are usually used for arranging a subfloor. And if it is used for arranging a finished floor, then a decorative floor covering is placed on top of it.

Glued laminated timber or seam board is used as a finished floor. After installation they paint or varnish.

Floor designs

Flooring is divided into two types.

The structure of such a floor looks like this:

• Rough floor.
• Waterproofing.
• Insulation.
• Air bag.
• Finish floor.
• Decorative floor covering.

Foundation preparation

Choosing a foundation is always a difficult and controversial choice. Pricing policies vary. Since a wooden house is a lightweight structure up to 14-17 tons, the foundation should be selected accordingly.

Some people place houses directly on the ground or add crushed stone with a layer of 10-20 cm. This is done in places where there is no groundwater, and the earth does not creep.

Lay 2 layers of waterproofing on the ground (roofing felt, polyethylene film), then the logs are laid. This type of foundation is suitable for small seasonal houses with a single floor.

The most common is, of course, a concrete foundation. It can be tape type, more cheap way or poured in one piece (slab), a more expensive method.

Concrete foundations are usually reinforced with a reinforcement belt. This is long term and reliable foundation, both for a wooden house and for a brick one.

The next option is support posts. The site on which the house is going to stand is cleared of soil to a depth of approximately 50 cm. The formation of the cushion is carried out using a layer of sand and gravel.

Each layer should be approximately 20-30 cm. We compact everything thoroughly. Then we lay out columns of brick or asbestos pipes filled with concrete.

The pillars are placed around the perimeter and inside the house at intervals of 90-100 cm, maintaining one level. We lay waterproofing on the pillars, then a 3 cm board around the entire perimeter - this is the lining. The beams are placed on it.

And recently, pile foundations have become popular. Everyone just buys ready-made piles of a given diameter, they are screwed into the ground to one level.

After this, a frame for the walls and floor is built. This type of foundation is ideal for places where groundwater or moving soil is close, since the piles can be buried to different depths and make the foundation strong and reliable.

Single-layer floor installation

The choice of foundation is yours. Supports, piles, soil or concrete surface on which I lay thick beams, be sure to cover it with a layer waterproofing material.

It is advisable to buy bars from coniferous species trees. As was said above, everything wooden elements treated with special compounds.

The logs are usually laid on top of the beams at the locations of the supports, the main thing is to maintain the same level.

The distance between the lags should be 60-80 cm if you have a floor board 4 cm thick or more. And if the thickness of the board is 3 cm, then the distance is best to choose 50-60 cm.

We lay a plank floor on the logs placed at one level. We place the first board from the wall at a distance of 10-15 mm. This gap should be left for natural ventilation.

Subsequently, this hole will be closed with a plinth. For creating decorative beauty, it is better to lay floor boards parallel to the rays of light from the window. We use nails to fasten the boards.

Purchase nails taking into account that their length should be twice as long as the thickness of the boards. Drive nails at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Don't forget to recess the hats.

Then, when all the boards are secured, all the holes from the caps are sealed with wood putty. After the putty has dried, you can begin painting and varnish work. Installation of skirting boards is done around the entire perimeter.

A permanent plinth is nailed to the two opposite walls, and a temporary plinth is nailed to the other two opposite walls, which have gaps left, with a gap of 10 mm from the wall. In 2-3 weeks, due to natural convection, the floor will completely dry out, and temporary skirting boards can be replaced with permanent ones.

As mentioned above, this type of floor is used in unheated, small houses. And in winter, the ground under the house freezes and the pillars become deformed, which directly affects the functionality of the floor.

To eliminate this effect as much as possible, the underground space is covered with slag, leaving 4-6 cm to the floor for an air cushion.

Double floor device

This floor has the structure of a multi-layer cake. The design of the beams and joists remains as described above. Only in the lower part of the lag we fill the bars along the entire length and on both sides.

These bars are called cranial bars. The subfloor is attached on top of these bars. The floor is usually made from non edged boards 2-4 cm thick. All wooden elements must be processed by special means. Boards should be fastened with minimal gaps.

After the subfloor is completely assembled, vapor barrier and waterproofing materials are laid on it. This is often a 200 micron thick polyethylene film.

But you can also use other materials, such as parchment paper, roofing felt and modern membrane films. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the seams are taped with construction tape.

Then insulation is placed on top of the waterproofing layer. In the past, mixtures were actively used: clay + sawdust or clay + straw. Expanded clay has proven itself well, rodents do not eat it, it does not lose its shape and volume.

But in the age of high technology, the market offers big choice materials for insulation. Ecowool, polystyrene foam, isolon, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. This is not the entire list, but only those that are popular.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main difference is in price and characteristics. The choice of insulation is up to you. After you have purchased the insulation, lay it between the joists.

We lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, leaving 3-5 cm to the bottom edge of the finished floor, as natural ventilation of the subfloor.

If you plan to have a “warm floor” system, then pipes or wires should be laid on top of the insulation. They should not be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

We lay the finished floor on top of this “pie”. Tongue and groove boards are ideal for finishing a finished floor. The principle of assembling the boards is similar to laminate, each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the previous one, and fastening occurs with nails at an angle.

If in the first method we talked about the ventilation gap, which is located along the walls, then here we will talk about the ventilation gap, which is located in two opposite corners of the room.

These gaps can have the shape of a square, a circle measuring about 5 cm. After the floor is covered with all the boards, the ventilation gaps are decorated with grilles.

The gratings must be moved out by 5 mm. above the floor level so that liquid does not get into the insulation. The tongue and groove board is sanded and varnished. There is no need to use a finishing coating on top of such a floor. But if you wish, you can lay carpet, linoleum, laminate and others.

Remember that you should leave it in the base too. ventilation holes. They close only in winter.

Conclusion

We examined all the nuances of the floor structure in a wooden house. I hope our article will help you find correct solution and approach to floor arrangement.

We should not forget that a tree is natural material, which requires care and treatment with special means.

The flooring process requires care, accuracy and adherence to instructions. You can do the installation work yourself.

The process of constructing a private wooden house consists of several stages, one of which is related to the construction of the floor structure. Its type is chosen at the design stage of the structure and many factors are taken into account. What kind of floors there are in a wooden house, and the features of their designs will be discussed in this article.

The floor on the ground floor in a wooden house, when there is an unheated basement underneath, has its own characteristics. In this regard, several types of structures can be distinguished:

1. Cold floor design installed on earthen foundation(no underground). The installation of this type of cold floor is possible only if there is dry soil under the building and a high location of the floors of the lower floor, under which a layer of compacted sand is laid. Another layer of clean, calcined, dry sand is poured on top of it. Logs made of coniferous timber with a thickness of more than 150 mm are buried in the formed soil base and rest against special recesses in the walls of the house. On top there is a single plank flooring, the thickness of which is from 30 to 40 mm.

2. Warm floors with a cold underground are recommended in areas where there is high level groundwater. This design is arranged as follows:

• cleaned sand in a layer of 10 - 15 cm is laid on the ground in the underground and compacted;
• install supports with a height of at least 50 cm. To do this, you can fill concrete mortar into vertically buried pipes with metal frame required height;
• a double layer of waterproofing material and wooden dies 3 cm thick are laid on top of the supports;
• load-bearing beams are laid.

To install thermal insulation, it is necessary to install a subfloor laid on slats nailed to the ends of the joists. For flooring, cut unedged boards are used. Then a layer of vapor barrier and insulation are laid. After this, a plank covering is laid over the beams.

3. The installation of a cold floor with a warm subfloor is recommended where the soil has low level soil water. In the same way as in the previously described method, the structure is installed, but the stage of installing a subfloor with insulation is skipped and a clean floor is installed.

What should a wooden house be like?

The floor in a wooden house should be strong, durable, warm and smooth, with an aesthetic appearance.

When performing work on installing a floor in a wooden house independently, take into account the above requirements, and also determine the procedure for performing the upcoming work, take into account the characteristics of the building’s structures and individual characteristics operation of the house. First we need to consider different variants floors that can be installed in a wooden house, study their pros and cons and, taking into account operating conditions, choose suitable option.

An important criterion that the floor must meet is its evenness. Regardless of the flooring material, it must meet sanitary, hygienic, structural, operational and aesthetic requirements.

Types of floors

Floors in wooden houses are made of wood or concrete - the most common building materials. The technology of installing a “warm floor system” can also be implemented.

Now on construction market There are several types of “warm floors”. They differ in the type of coolant and operating efficiency. We'll tell you in our article.

Concrete floor

A popular way to obtain a level base in a relatively short time is to pour a concrete screed. While it may take a month for the screed to dry completely, installing a new wooden one will take longer.

The advantages of concrete floors are as follows:

1. A significant reduction in the cost of the finishing coating device.
2. After the screed has dried, a flat base is obtained, but which can be laid with any finishing material.
3. With an initially high-quality screed, additional leveling before the final stage of work may not be necessary, which will save time, physical strength and material costs.
4. The screed can be installed independently, without the involvement of specialists.

You will learn how to install a concrete floor in a private house yourself in two main options - on the ground and on the floors.

Disadvantages include: heavy weight monolithic design floor and, as a result, an increase in the load on the foundation. Therefore, the necessary foundation calculations are performed at the house design stage. Another nuance is that when the walls vibrate, the screed may crack, which will lead to heat loss. Therefore, when installing a heated floor, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the base.

Wooden floor

Another common material for flooring in a wooden house is natural wood. Its advantages include the following:

1. Environmentally friendly material with a rich natural pattern.
2. Wood is safe because it does not contain harmful additives, it is completely natural and does not emit environment harmful toxins.
3. Aesthetic appearance and an organic combination of wood with the rest of the surfaces of the building, while the concrete floor will not look natural.
4. When installing a wooden floor, you can refuse other finishing materials. With the help of varnishes, oils, stains and other impregnations, a finished wooden base can become stronger, more durable and acquire an original, noble appearance.
5. Wood is very durable and, depending on the species, you can choose a material with certain performance properties and texture.

The undeniable quality of natural wood gives an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, creates an optimal microclimate and comfort in the house.

Important! The wooden floor is repairable. For current repairs its fragment will not require dismantling the entire flooring; you can replace a separate fragment. This will require a minimum set of tools and construction skills.

Among the disadvantages of a wooden floor, the high cost of the material and the labor involved in its installation are noted. In addition, it can be quite difficult to obtain a perfectly level base.

Which is better - concrete or wood?

At the design stage of a private house, you must immediately decide what the floor will be - wooden or concrete. To choose the most suitable option, you need to know what the difference is between these floors.

Price

To fill a screed 5 cm thick, you will need 0.5 bags of cement (300 rubles/bag) and 1.5 (50 rubles/bag) bags of sand. Thus, 1 m 2 screeds will cost an average of 225 rubles. If the work will be performed by a hired person, then the cost of the work must be added to this amount - 250 rubles / m 2.

If we take dry timber 10 x 10 cm as a basis, in increments of 40 cm (400 rubles / m 2) and OSB boards(600 rub./m2) 18 mm thick. With the work of a carpenter, the cost will be 1250 rubles/m2.

Communications

IN modern houses The heating, water supply and sewerage system is laid inside the floor structure. In the event of a pipe break, wooden ones can be quickly sawed and access to communications can be gained. WITH concrete floors more difficult - to remove the screed you will have to use professional tool, and the process itself will take a lot of time and effort.

Deadlines

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the date of pouring. Moreover, it gains 70% of its strength in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it.

Wooden floors can be used immediately after installation.

Durability

If the wooden floor is not installed professional craftsman, then after a couple of weeks you can hear a characteristic creaking sound when walking on the floor. Concrete screed does not have this drawback. Moreover, when work is performed by hired workers, the result and quality of their work can be assessed immediately.

Weight

The weight of 1 m 2 OSB sheet with a thickness of 18 mm is 12 kg, logs per 1 m 2 weigh about 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. Thus, 1 m2 of wooden floor will weigh about 40 kg. And 1 m 2 ties with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg.

The process of constructing floors on pillars

When constructing such a floor, the following procedure must be followed:

1. Prepare the base. To do this, marking and excavation of soil is carried out plant layer. The resulting depression is filled with crushed stone and sand on top, which is then compacted.
2. Then the brick support pillars are installed, taking into account the basic design requirements regarding the height of the finished floor and the structure below it.
3. It is mandatory to take into account the ratio of the height of the support column and the section of the brick. So, with a support height of 25 cm and above, the recommended width of the support column is equal to two bricks.
4. It is necessary to start installing supports first along the perimeter of the future room, and then within the specified boundaries.
5. I lay two layers of roofing material on the upper plane of each column to ensure waterproofing of the structure.
6. Then the wooden linings are fixed. Logs made of logs or timber are installed on them. The width of the step of their location relative to each other is chosen depending on the width of the floor boards to be laid.
7. Slag backfill, the height of which does not reach the log by 5 cm, is used to prevent the mobility of the floor structure in the cold season when the soil freezes. The remaining free space provides ventilation to the structure.

Laying the floor on top installed logs is done using boards, which begin to be laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from the wall. The resulting gap performs a ventilation function, which is very important for the correct and long-term operation of a natural wood floor.

The boards are attached to the joists using long nails driven at an angle of 45 degrees. While the wood is not completely dry, install temporary skirting boards.

Single layer floor

The single floor structure can be placed on poles, as described above. Only on top of the supports are beams placed, on top of which the flooring is made of tongue-and-groove boards.

The second option is to install the floor along beams embedded in the body of the load-bearing enclosing structures of the building. Beams serve as the basis for the floor, and brick supports are no longer required.

Due to the large free distance between the beams, the fastening of the flooring from the boards is carried out along the sheathing:

1. The sheathing is made of timber with a square section of 5-6 cm.
2. The pitch of the timber in the sheathing depends on the thickness of the floor board. The thinner the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.
3. During the installation of the sheathing, it is important to control its horizontal position so that the end result is an even plank covering.
4. Fastening the boards begins after all the logs are installed in their places and securely fixed with nails.
5. If it is not planned to lay additional decorative covering on top of the flooring - laminate, tile, linoleum, then it is finished.
6. After the single decking is installed, it is covered with two layers of protective varnish.

Advice. If the flooring is rough, then you can use unedged board.

When making a single floor, no serious professional skills or significant time and financial costs are required. But its disadvantage is low thermal insulation properties.

TO optimal solution When arranging a floor in a wooden house, a two-layer structure is used, consisting of a rough and finishing layer. Installation of such a structure occurs in the following way:

1. The subfloor is installed from unedged boards up to 4.5 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic compound. In this case, preference should be given to coniferous wood - it is durable, resistant to moisture, dampness and decay.
2. The boards are laid close to each other, and a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top.
3. In addition to insulation, it is necessary to steam and waterproof the structure to extend its service life.
4. The finished floor boards are laid as for other types of structures, leaving a gap of 1.5 cm between them with the subfloor.

A clean floor can serve a function finishing coating or serve as a basis for laying decorative flooring, which will not only decorate the room, but also increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor.

Start of work - installation of the subfloor

A subfloor when installing plank flooring is necessary for several reasons:

1. To increase the operational life of the structure due to the presence high-quality ventilation floor.
2. It serves as a solid base for laying insulation and finishing flooring.
3. Makes the frame of the building more rigid.

Before starting work on the installation of the rough structure, check the following:

1. The wood chosen as the material for the construction of the subfloor must have optimal level humidity - this will eliminate possible deformation of the structure during its subsequent operation.
2. The boards should not have obvious defects.
3. If an inexpensive board can be used for the subfloor, then for the finished floor it is purchased with a reserve, so that later you do not have to look for material of the same shade.

Preparation

Installation of the subfloor can be carried out both on the ground and on the floors. In any case, it is necessary to carry out a set of preparatory measures:

1. The walls of the building must be equipped with ventilation windows, closed from the outside with special grilles.
2. All wooden parts treated with antiseptic compounds to increase the service life of the structure.
3. Taking into account the size of the room in which the floor will be installed, calculate required amount material.
4. Throughout all work, it is important to monitor the horizontal position of the floor structure to prevent the formation of a slope.
5. Timber and logs are subject to processing, in which they are cut to eliminate slopes and bevels.

Laying the subfloor

To ensure that the floor does not creak, does not vibrate, is smooth and warm, it is necessary to pay special attention to the laying of the subfloor and, first of all, to the joists.

The logs should be suspended on the beam supports in increments of 60 cm - insulation will be laid in the gap formed. It is not worth saving on beams in order to avoid sagging and vibration of the floor during operation.

Where it will later be installed heavy equipment, for example, a stove or fireplace, the floor is reinforced by placing beams in increments of 30 cm.

Fastenings in such places are also further reinforced.

At the bottom, beams are nailed across the beams. Between floors, beams are nailed along the beams - this will save the height of the room and, if necessary, use the upper beams as decorative element in the interior after their additional finishing.

In the gap, an OSB sheet is laid on the beams.

After this, mineral wool slabs are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and on top there is a continuous layer of vapor barrier, which covers the logs and is fixed with construction stapler. The vapor barrier seam is taped.

The second layer of vapor barrier is laid overlapping, and a ventilation gap is formed on top. To do this, use a 40 x 100 mm block, screwed to the floor joists. The finishing floor will be installed on top of these bars.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Video - Insulating a wooden floor

Finished floor installation

To obtain an aesthetically attractive and durable finished floor, it is recommended to use a milled board with a tongue-and-groove fastening.

Table 1. Instructions for laying finished floorboards

Illustration	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove against the wall, leaving an expansion gap.
	It must be secured with self-tapping screws so that you can later cover the attachment point with a plinth. There are 2 options for further fastening the boards.
	The first option uses self-tapping screws that are twice as long as the floorboard.
	Self-tapping screws are screwed into each joist in the center of the board. Subsequently, the caps can be masked using wood putty.
	Then take the next board and align the tenon with the groove.
	If necessary, the boards are adjusted by hitting them with a mallet through a block.
	Or they press it with a chisel.
	The second fastening option involves screwing self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 degrees into the tenon. To prevent the board from bursting, you must first drill a hole for the screw.
	With this option, the boards fit closer to each other, and the fastening elements are invisible.

After all the boards are laid, their surface is sanded and coated with wear-resistant varnish in several layers.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

The most common way to install a concrete floor in a wooden house is to pour it over the ground, but with the obligatory condition that the ground must be dry.

Stage 1 – preparation

Preparatory work includes the following steps:

1. Using a level, determine the main indicators and calculate the excavation work.
2. To prevent soil subsidence and cracking of the concrete floor in the future, the soil is carefully compacted using special devices.
3. The ground is well compacted sand cushion. The backfill will be denser if you pour material that exceeds the required volume by 25%, moisten it and compact it thoroughly using a roller or vibrator.
4. An expanded clay or gravel layer is laid on the sand.

Stage 2 - waterproofing

On next stage must be completed , so that it does not absorb moisture from the concrete screed, and it will also protect the floor from ground moisture. For this they use roll materials based on bitumen. You can use thick plastic film.

The waterproofing material is laid overlapping, extending it onto the wall by 20 cm, and then the joints are taped. It is important that the material is homogeneous and without damage.

An alternative method is the coating method, when mastic waterproofing is applied at the stage of pouring the subfloor.

Stage 3 - pouring the subfloor

The subfloor or technological floor serves as the basis for the hydro- and vapor barrier layer. For its production, concrete of class B7.5 - B10 and crushed stone of size 50-20 are used. There are no strict rules for pouring the rough layer, the main thing is that its thickness is about 50 mm, and the difference does not exceed 4 mm.

Stage 4 – vapor barrier and insulation

Lay on top of the subfloor vapor barrier material in the form of inexpensive membranes made of fiberglass or polyester. Durable materials that are not afraid of rotting are PVC membranes. Insulation is laid over the vapor barrier - this can increase the energy efficiency of a living space by 20%. The following materials can be used as insulation:

1. Mineral wool, the density of which does not exceed 120 kg/m 3. To prevent it from accumulating cotton wool, it is insulated with polyethylene.
2. Where the floor is subject to heavy loads, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, which deforms when compressed and then returns to its original state.
3. When using polystyrene foam, it is covered with polyethylene on all sides to give strength.

Stage 5 – final screed

At the final stage, the final screed is performed, which will become the basis for the decorative floor covering. It can be monolithic or dry. In the first case, pouring a solution with a coarse filler in the form of crushed stone, stones, small pebbles or a cement-sand composition (quartz sand) is carried out along the beacons. Begin pouring the screed from the far corner of the room, leveling the solution using the rule. Complete drying Screed occurs after 30 days.

An alternative is dry screed based on fiberboard, plywood and asbestos cement sheets, GKLV. The technology is simple and fast:

1. Line with plastic film.
2. A technological gap of 1 cm is left along the walls, into which soundproofing material is placed.
3. Execute sand backfill 5 cm thick.
4. The sheet material is laid in two layers and securely fixed to each other using self-tapping screws or construction adhesive.
5. Perform puttying and sanding of joints.

Finishing materials

Material for finishing Floors in a wooden house are selected depending on the interior design. If the appearance of the house inside retains the color of natural wood, which on the walls and ceiling is not hidden behind other finishing, then the flooring should be organically combined with it.

Table 2. Types of flooring

Illustration	Description
	In a wooden house the best solution the floor will be made of natural wood. It will organically fit into the interior with wood paneling walls Wood has low thermal conductivity, it is environmentally friendly and safe. Flooring made of natural wood, it is distinguished by a variety of textures and rich natural patterns.
	A beautiful and natural floor covering for a wooden house can be obtained by laying parquet made of natural wood, which has high aesthetics, a variety of shades and good performance.
	In rooms with high humidity - bathroom, shower bath, kitchen, as well as in the hallway practical solution will be laying tiles.
	An alternative material to expensive natural wood is laminate, which is highly durable, wear-resistant and decorative. This material imitates many, even rare and very expensive types of wood.

Prices for popular types of block parquet

piece parquet

A wooden house has a special atmosphere home comfort and warmth, so natural materials look natural in its walls.

Despite the obvious advantages of living in their own home, not everyone will decide to exchange a comfortable apartment for one. The main reason for this choice is the fear of the need for constant maintenance of the building, site and communications. IN multi-storey buildings most of this work is done utility companies, whereas in the private sector the responsibility falls entirely on the owner. And to take up self-construction Only a few are capable. If you decide to take such a responsible step without being professional builder, you need to take every stage of this difficult matter with full responsibility. In this article we will figure out how to properly install floors in a private home. We are not talking about a decorative covering, but about choosing a floor design, its proper waterproofing and insulation.

Selection of material for the base device

Quite often, wood is used for flooring in private housing construction. This is due not only to long-standing traditions, but also to practical considerations. This material has several undeniable advantages:

• Durability;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Maintainability;
• Low thermal conductivity;
• Relatively easy to install.

Having settled on this option, it is important to choose the right wood. There are several criteria that must be met raw material to ensure that the floor is strong, durable and warm:

• First of all, you need to pay attention to the type of wood. It is best to install wooden floors in a private house from oak or ash - such a floor will be the most durable. However, the cost of such material is quite high and not everyone can afford it. Coniferous trees also performed well: larch, pine, spruce, cedar and fir.
• Boards and beams must be dry. Their humidity cannot exceed 12%. Otherwise, they may lead during operation.

The wood should not have cracks or chips, and to protect against insects it should be treated with antiseptics

Despite all the advantages of wood, many people prefer to install concrete floors. Most often, this choice is due to the durability of the material. Having chosen this method, it is important to ensure the quality of the concrete and strictly follow the work technology.

Options for possible designs

First of all, you need to choose the type of construction of your floor. This choice depends on how you plan to use the building. Yes, for country house, which will be used only in the summer, a single plank floor is sufficient, but for a full-fledged residential building where you plan to live permanently, you need to choose a well-insulated option.

Option No. 1 - single plank floor

This is the easiest flooring option to implement and operate. It is only suitable for summer buildings or housing in regions with warm climates. If the house design provides for embedding floor beams into the walls, then the width between them, as a rule, is too large to immediately lay the boards. To ensure the necessary strength of the floor, you need to lay logs - wooden beams. If you are planning to install a floor on support pillars, you can immediately place the beams at the required distance from each other and avoid additional costs for logs.

The distance between the joists depends on the thickness of the floorboard. So, if you plan to use a tongue-and-groove board 38 mm thick, the distance between the logs can be 60-70 cm. If the board thickness is 28 mm, you need to lay the logs more often - at a distance of half a meter from each other

So, we lay the logs on the supporting beams and level them using wooden spacers and wedges. After making sure that all the beams are at the same level, we fasten them to the beams with nails, and then nail the boards to them.

Option No. 2 - double plank floor

This flooring option will require significantly more cost and effort, but it can greatly reduce heat loss. It is recommended to make the draft from coniferous wood. To save money, you can use an unedged board or slab here.

As a rule, I lay a layer between the subfloor and the finished floor thermal insulation material. For these purposes, expanded clay or a mixture of clay and sawdust or straw. Of course, you can use modern materials– polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. A finished floor made of tongue and groove boards is laid on top of the insulating material.

Option No. 3 - concrete floor

The installation of a concrete floor in a private house is divided into several stages:

• First you need to make markings. The easiest way to use it for these purposes is laser level. It is installed at the bottom of the doorway and marks are made on the walls. This will be the level of the future floor. To mark the level in the center of the room, nails are driven into the walls along the markings and thin ropes are pulled.
• Now we begin to organize the gravel backfill. This layer will serve as thermal insulation for your floor. We level the soil and clear it of debris. Then we drive in pegs, each of which should be 10 cm below the level of the future concrete screed. We start filling from the wall opposite the door. When the entire area is filled, we level and compact the gravel level with the pegs and remove the latter.
• Then you need to pour a layer of sand, compact it and smooth the surface.
• Proper waterproofing of the floor is of great importance; in a private house, the concrete floor is most often protected from moisture using a polyethylene tape with a thickness of at least 250 microns.
• Now you can start filling. First, we will install beacons made of wooden slats at a level at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other. It is necessary to do this so that the top edge of the rail touches the stretched rope. After this, the markings from the ropes can be removed.
• We fill the space between the two slats with concrete, starting from the far wall. Then we level it using the rule and remove the excess.

Important! For high-quality waterproofing, polyethylene should extend onto the walls by 10-15 cm, that is, above the level of the concrete screed. In addition, if the width of the polyethylene sheet is less than the width of the room, and you are using several strips, carefully connect them together using construction tape.

Pouring a concrete floor on expanded clay. The rule for leveling can be any flat strip, slightly longer than the distance between the guides

When the concrete “sets”, it is necessary to remove the slats, fill the voids with mortar and level them with a plaster “grater”. Now cover the floor with polyethylene and leave it for 3-4 weeks. It is advisable to remove the film and moisten the concrete every few days. This will allow the material to gain maximum strength.

Subtleties of the “warm floor” device

Don’t forget about such a novelty as heated floors, because in a private house the installation of such a heating system is most justified. This is especially true when the room is heated not by radiators, but by pipes with coolant located under the floor surface. It should be noted that heating in a building with a wooden floor is very problematic and not very efficient. This is due to the low thermal conductivity of wood. But it allows you to use it successfully.

If you still intend to install heated floors in a wooden house, use an electric or infrared system

Whatever flooring option you choose for your home, remember that it is important to follow the technology exactly and not skimp on materials, even after finishing works they will not be visible. If the work on the construction of the subfloor or its thermal and waterproofing is performed poorly, even the most expensive decorative coating will soon become unusable.