Any heating system is a rather complex “organism” in which each of the “organs” performs a strictly assigned role. And one of the most important elements are heat exchange devices - they are entrusted with the final task of transferring thermal energy to the premises of the house. In this capacity, conventional radiators, open or open convectors can act hidden installation, water underfloor heating systems that are gaining popularity are pipe circuits laid in accordance with certain rules.

You might be interested in information about what it is

This publication will focus on heating radiators. Let us not be distracted by their diversity, structure and specifications: on our portal there is enough comprehensive information on these topics. Now we are interested in another set of questions: connecting heating radiators, wiring diagrams, installation of batteries. Correct installation of heat exchange devices, rational use of the technical capabilities inherent in them is the key to the efficiency of the entire heating system. Even the most expensive modern radiator will have low returns if you do not listen to the recommendations for its installation.

What should you consider when choosing radiator piping schemes?

If you take a simplified look at most heating radiators, their hydraulic design is a fairly simple, understandable diagram. These are two horizontal collectors that are connected to each other by vertical jumper channels through which the coolant moves. This entire system is either made of metal, which provides the necessary high heat transfer (a striking example -), or is “clad” in a special casing, the design of which provides for a maximum contact area with air (for example, bimetallic radiators).

1 – Upper collector;

2 – Lower collector;

3 – Vertical channels in radiator sections;

4 – Heat exchange housing (casing) of the radiator.

Both collectors, upper and lower, have outputs on both sides (respectively, in the diagram, the upper pair B1-B2, and the lower pair B3-B4). It is clear that when connecting a radiator to the heating circuit pipes, only two of the four outputs are connected, and the remaining two are muted. And from the connection diagram, that is, from relative position The coolant supply pipes and the return outlet largely depend on the operating efficiency of the installed battery.

And first of all, when planning the installation of radiators, the owner must understand exactly what kind of heating system is operating or will be created in his house or apartment. That is, he must clearly understand where the coolant is coming from and in which direction its flow is directed.

Single pipe heating system

In multi-storey buildings, a single-pipe system is most often used. In this scheme, each radiator is, as it were, inserted into a “break” in a single pipe through which both the coolant is supplied and its discharge towards the “return” is carried out.

The coolant passes sequentially through all the radiators installed in the riser, gradually wasting heat. It is clear that in the initial section of the riser its temperature will always be higher - this must also be taken into account when planning the installation of radiators.

One more point is important here. Such a one-pipe system apartment building can be organized according to the principle of top and bottom feed.

• On the left (item 1) the top supply is shown - the coolant is transferred through a straight pipe to the top point of the riser, and then sequentially passes through all the radiators on the floors. This means that the flow direction is from top to bottom.
• To simplify the system and save Supplies Another scheme is often organized - with bottom feed (item 2). In this case, radiators are installed in the same series on the pipe ascending to the upper floor as on the pipe going down. This means that the direction of coolant flow in these “branches” of one loop changes to the opposite. Obviously, the temperature difference in the first and last radiator of such a circuit will be even more noticeable.

It is important to understand this issue - on which pipe of such a single-pipe system is your radiator installed - the optimal insertion pattern depends on the direction of flow.

A mandatory condition for piping a radiator in a single-pipe riser is a bypass

The name “bypass,” which is not entirely clear to some, refers to a jumper connecting the pipes connecting the radiator to the riser in a single-pipe system. Why it is needed, what rules are followed when installing it - read in the special publication of our portal.

The single-pipe system is widely used in private one-story houses, at least for reasons of saving materials for its installation. In this case, it is easier for the owner to figure out the direction of the coolant flow, that is, from which side it will flow into the radiator, and from which side it will exit.

Advantages and disadvantages of a single-pipe heating system

While attractive due to the simplicity of its design, such a system is still somewhat alarming due to the difficulty of ensuring uniform heating on different radiators in the house wiring. Read what is important to know about how to install it yourself in a separate publication on our portal.

Two-pipe system

Already based on the name, it becomes clear that each of the radiators in such a scheme “rests” on two pipes – separately on the supply and “return”.

If you look at the two-pipe wiring diagram in multi-storey building, then the differences are immediately visible.

It is clear that the dependence of the heating temperature on the location of the radiator in the heating system is minimized. The direction of flow is determined only by the relative position of the pipes embedded in the risers. The only thing you need to know is which specific riser serves as the supply and which is the “return” - but this, as a rule, is easily determined even by the temperature of the pipe.

Some apartment residents may be misled by the presence of two risers, in which the system will not cease to be one-pipe. Look at the illustration below:

On the left, although there seem to be two risers, a single-pipe system is shown. The coolant is simply supplied from the top through one pipe. But on the right is a typical case of two different risers - supply and return.

Dependence of the efficiency of the radiator on the scheme of its insertion into the system

Why was all that said? what is posted in previous sections articles? But the fact is that from the relative position of the serving and return pipe The heat transfer of a heating radiator depends very seriously.

Scheme of inserting a radiator into the circuit	Coolant flow direction
Diagonal two-way radiator connection, with supply from above
This scheme is considered the most effective. In principle, it is this that is taken as the basis when calculating the heat transfer of a specific radiator model, that is, the power of the battery for such a connection is taken as one. The coolant, without encountering any resistance, completely passes through the upper collector, through all vertical channels, ensuring maximum heat transfer. The entire radiator heats up evenly over its entire area.
This type of scheme is one of the most common in heating systems. multi-storey buildings, as the most compact in conditions of vertical risers. It is used on risers with a top supply of coolant, as well as on return and downstream ones - with a bottom supply. Quite effective for small radiators. However, if the number of sections is large, then heating may be uneven. The kinetic energy of the flow becomes insufficient to distribute the coolant to the very end of the upper supply manifold - the liquid tends to pass along the path of least resistance, that is, through the vertical channels closest to the entrance. Thus, in the part of the battery farthest from the entrance, stagnant zones cannot be excluded, which will be much colder than the opposite ones. When calculating the system, it is usually assumed that even with the optimal length of the battery, its overall heat transfer efficiency is reduced by 3–5%. Well, with long radiators, such a scheme becomes ineffective or will require some optimization (this will be discussed below) /
One-sided radiator connection with top supply
The scheme is similar to the previous one, and in many ways repeats and even enhances its inherent disadvantages. Used in the same risers single pipe systems, but only in schemes with bottom supply - on the rising pipe, so the coolant is supplied from below. Losses in total heat transfer with such a connection can be even higher - up to 20÷22%. This is due to the fact that the closure of the coolant movement through the nearby vertical channels will also be facilitated by the difference in density - the hot liquid tends upward, and therefore passes more difficultly to the remote edge of the lower supply manifold of the radiator. Sometimes this is the only connection option. The losses are compensated to some extent by the fact that in the rising pipe the overall temperature level of the coolant is always higher. The scheme can be optimized by installing special devices.
Two-way connection with bottom connection of both connections
The bottom connection, or as it is often called the “saddle” connection, is extremely popular in autonomous systems of private houses due to the wide possibilities of hiding the heating circuit pipes under the decorative floor surface or making them as invisible as possible. However, in terms of heat transfer, such a scheme is far from optimal, and possible efficiency losses are estimated at 10–15%. The most accessible path for the coolant in this case is the lower collector, and distribution through vertical channels is largely due to the difference in density. As a result, the upper part of the heating battery can warm up significantly less than the lower part. There are certain methods and means to reduce this disadvantage to a minimum.
Diagonal two-way radiator connection, with supply from below
Despite the apparent similarity with the first, most optimal scheme, the difference between them is very big. Efficiency losses with such a connection reach up to 20%. This is explained quite simply. The coolant has no incentive to freely penetrate into the far section of the lower supply manifold of the radiator - due to the difference in density, it selects the vertical channels closest to the entrance to the battery. As a result, with the top heated sufficiently evenly, stagnation very often forms in the lower corner opposite the one I enter, that is, the temperature of the battery surface in this area will be lower. Such a scheme is used extremely rarely in practice - it is even difficult to imagine a situation when it is absolutely necessary to resort to it, rejecting other, more optimal solutions.

The table deliberately does not mention the bottom one-way battery connection. This is a controversial issue, as many radiators that offer the possibility of such an insertion have special adapters that essentially turn the bottom connection into one of the options discussed in the table. In addition, even for ordinary radiators, you can purchase additional equipment, in which the lower one-sided connection will be structurally modified to another, more optimal option.

It must be said that there are also more “exotic” insertion schemes, for example, for vertical radiators high altitude– some models from this series require a two-way connection with both connections on top. But the very design of such batteries is thought out in such a way that the heat transfer from them is maximum.

Dependence of the heat transfer efficiency of a radiator on its installation location in the room

In addition to the connection diagram of radiators to the heating circuit pipes, the efficiency of these heat exchange devices is seriously affected by the location of their installation.

First of all, certain rules for placing a radiator on the wall in relation to adjacent structures and interior elements of the room must be observed.

The most typical location of the radiator is under the window opening. In addition to the general heat transfer, the ascending convection flow creates a kind of “ thermal curtain", preventing the free penetration of colder air from the windows.

• The radiator at this location will show maximum efficiency, if its total length is about 75% of the width of the window opening. In this case, you must try to install the battery exactly in the center of the window, with minimum deviation, not exceeding 20 mm in one direction or another.
• The distance from the bottom plane of the window sill (or other obstacle located above - a shelf, horizontal wall of a niche, etc.) should be about 100 mm. In any case, it should never be less than 75% of the depth of the radiator itself. Otherwise, an insurmountable barrier to convection currents is created, and the battery efficiency drops sharply.
• The height of the lower edge of the radiator above the floor surface should also be about 100÷120 mm. With a clearance of less than 100 mm, firstly, considerable difficulties are artificially created in carrying out regular cleaning under the battery (and this is a traditional place for the accumulation of dust carried by convection air currents). And secondly, convection itself will be difficult. At the same time, “lifting” the radiator too high, with a clearance from the floor surface of 150 mm or more, is also completely useless, since this leads to uneven distribution of heat in the room: a pronounced cold layer may remain in the area bordering the floor surface air.
• Finally, the radiator must be positioned at least 20 mm away from the wall using brackets. Reducing this clearance is a violation of normal air convection, and in addition, clearly visible dust traces may soon appear on the wall.

These are guidelines that should be followed. However, for some radiators there are also manufacturer-developed recommendations for linear installation parameters - they are indicated in the product operating manuals.

It is probably unnecessary to explain that a radiator located openly on the wall will show much higher heat transfer than one that is completely or partially covered by certain interior items. Even a window sill that is too wide can already reduce heating efficiency by several percent. And if you consider that many owners cannot do without thick curtains on the windows, or, for the sake of interior design, try to cover up unsightly radiators with the help of facade decorative screens or even completely closed covers, then the calculated power of the batteries may not be enough to fully heat the room.

Heat transfer losses, depending on the features of installing the heating radiator on the walls, are shown in the table below.

Illustration	The influence of the shown placement on the heat transfer of the radiator
	The radiator is located completely open on the wall, or installed under the window sill, which covers no more than 75% of the depth of the battery. In this case, both main heat transfer paths – convection and thermal radiation – are completely preserved. Efficiency can be taken as one.
	A window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. For infrared radiation this does not matter, but the convection flow already encounters a serious obstacle. Losses can be estimated at 3 ÷ 5% of the total thermal power of the battery.
	In this case, there is not a window sill or shelf on top, but the upper wall of a wall niche. At first glance, everything is the same, but the losses are already somewhat greater - up to 7 ÷ 8%, since part of the energy will be wasted on heating the very heat-intensive wall material.
	The radiator on the front part is covered with a decorative screen, but there is sufficient clearance for air convection. The loss is precisely in thermal infrared radiation, which especially affects the efficiency of cast iron and bimetallic batteries. Heat transfer losses with this installation reach 10÷12%.
	The heating radiator is completely covered with a decorative casing on all sides. It is clear that in such a casing there are grilles or slot-like openings for air circulation, but both convection and direct thermal radiation are sharply reduced. Losses can reach up to 20 - 25% of the calculated battery power.

So, it is obvious that owners are free to change some of the nuances of installing heating radiators in order to increase the efficiency of heat transfer. However, sometimes space is so limited that you have to put up with existing conditions regarding both the location of the heating circuit pipes and the free space on the surface of the walls. Another option is that the desire to hide the batteries from view prevails over common sense, and installing screens or decorative casings is already a done deal. This means, in any case, you will have to make adjustments to the total power of the radiators in order to guarantee that the required level of heating is achieved in the room. The calculator below will help you make the appropriate adjustments correctly.

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most very coldy. Therefore, if you have an old and ineffective radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it is worth replacing it. At first glance, this seems to be a very complex job, accessible only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the right attitude and the availability of some tools, installing heating radiators with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Installing heating batteries with your own hands

Rules for battery location and connection diagrams

In addition to the characteristics of the radiator itself and the correctness of its connection, one of the most important factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is the choice of the right location for the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - new battery, most likely, will stand on the site of the old cast iron, which has been there since the construction of the building. But still, here are some recommendations for proper placement of the radiator.

How to install a radiator yourself

Firstly, it is advisable to place the battery under a window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which the cold from the street enters the apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of “thermal curtain” that interferes with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width.

Secondly, there should be at least 80-120 mm from the floor to the radiator. If it is less, it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery; a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires heating and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, too short a distance to the windowsill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and flow movement are disrupted warm air, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes some of the heat.

All of the above principles for placing a heating battery are presented in the diagram above

Table. Standard schemes connecting heating batteries.

Installing heating radiators with your own hands - detailed step-by-step instructions!

Find out how to install heating batteries yourself! Requirements, choice of location, step-by-step installation instructions, tips, photos + video.

Installing heating radiators with your own hands is a decision that should be taken seriously: not every person can do it. At the very least, it is imperative to prepare for such a process. Usually, if you just look at the situation amateurishly, you can end up with negative emergency consequences.

Installation of heating radiators

If you live in an apartment in a multi-storey building, then it is best to call specialists for this, since there is a risk of flooding not only your apartment. In a private house, you can try to install and install homemade heating radiators with your own hands - however, to do this you need to understand the main points of installation.

Preliminary preparation

First, you need to decide what type of wiring was used to install the heating system. Those who arranged it should know this - one-pipe or two-pipe wiring.

And before you start installing heating radiators with your own hands, you also need to find out which heating circuit is single-pipe or double-pipe.

After all, the choice of parts and their quantity will depend on the wiring diagram of your heating system, photos of the diagrams below.

Single pipe heating system

Two-pipe heating system

What you need for installation

Depending on what design features the heating system has, the number and list of parts required for installation will depend. For example, if this single pipe heating– then a bypass will be required. In case of problems, it will be possible to turn off only the device that has this element, and there will be no need to shut down the entire system - this is especially true in winter situations, when it is not very convenient to turn off the heating in cold weather.

The number of parts for installation is also determined by the connection diagram and type of radiators. According to the diagram, couplings, adapters, angles and nipples are selected.

Also, installing a heating battery yourself will require shut-off valves. You need to select the type of radiator fittings; you should not get carried away with complex ball valves with the so-called “American”, which require professional knowledge. And it will be difficult to ensure tightness without much experience in this area. To connect heating radiators to the pipeline with your own hands, you will need bends that will correspond to the dimensions of the radiator and threaded pipes. A sleeve will also be screwed onto the leads - after twisting, it is inserted into the battery. It is worth noting that when you buy cast iron radiators, you need to check before installation whether the brackets match the material of the wall on which they will be mounted.

Installation of shut-off valves

To be able to bleed air from the battery, you need to install a Mayevsky tap on it. As a rule, it is included in the factory configuration, but if not, then buy it.

Calculating the location

Those who are planning to install a heating radiator with their own hands should take into account that the sections of pipes that lead to the devices must be placed with a slope (slight) - in the direction of movement of the coolant. If the gasket is strictly horizontal or there is a skew in the installation, then air will concentrate in the batteries made of cast iron and steel. You will have to regularly blow it out manually so that the heat transfer does not decrease.

It is better if the central axis of the battery coincides with the axis that goes through the center of the window.

Deviations can be no more than 2 cm, such that will not be determined visually. But such a recommendation does not apply to strict requirements.

Marking the central axis of the heating battery

Installing heating radiators with your own hands involves following several strict rules:

• The components for supplying heating radiators must be placed so that the slope is 0.005; it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. So, 1 m of the pipeline will have to slope towards the circulation - and by at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination must be determined by the length of the pipe sections that are installed.
• There should be 6-10 cm or more from the floor surface to the radiator.
• From the lower outline of the window sill to the upper outline of the battery - 5-10 cm.
• From the plane of the wall to the battery - 3-5 cm.
• Be sure to follow horizontal and vertical directions.

Heating system pipe slope

To increase the performance of the radiator, you can install a specialized shield made of special heat-reflecting material before installation. Or you can simply take and cover the surface of the wall with a composition that has

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators, installation and connection, photo

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators. Marking radiators with brackets. Tools and materials for installing heating radiators.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks

In the old days, installing heating radiators yourself was problematic due to welding work, which were an integral part of the installation. Modern materials allow you to do without special devices, which makes it possible to install heating radiators in the house with your own hands.

To carry out similar activities in an apartment, it is recommended to involve plumbers from a service company, since you will need to completely disconnect the system from the main line and drain the water. Not everyone knows how to do this correctly, and a poor-quality connection can result in a flood of hot water.

Determining the location of radiators

If we are talking about replacing old structures with new ones, then the issue of location disappears by itself. When planning a circuit design, it is necessary to take into account important factors according to which the batteries must provide reliable thermal protection. No matter how high-quality modern double-glazed windows are, they are still sources of cold air flow. That is why batteries are installed in almost all rooms below the window. But it is worth considering that the radiator must cover at least 70% window opening. Only then will its functioning be effective.

Experts recommend following the installation following rules:

— the distance from the window sill to the top of the heating device should be within 9-14 cm;

— a gap of 7-12 cm is required from the bottom of the battery to the floor;

— a distance of 3-5 cm should be left between the radiator and the wall;

— post heating structure follows the center of the window opening.

Based on the listed requirements, we can summarize that the installation location must precede the choice of model. Only if certain parameters are available, the power and configuration of the sections are selected.

Radiator connection options

The diagonal method involves connecting the supply pipe to top part heating device, and the return from below, but located on the other side;

The bottom connection is made at the bottom of the battery on opposite sides;

The lateral or one-sided method is more often used with a vertical wiring diagram with connection to the right or left side radiator

Stages of installing heating radiators with your own hands

1. Preparatory work provide for the dismantling of old structures if necessary. The water must first be completely drained from the disconnected system. You will need to install special fasteners for batteries on the wall or check the strength and correct installation of existing hooks. You should also do research wall surface for integrity. Often cracks and gaps form under the window sill over time. They must be sealed with cement mortar, and foil insulation must be fixed to the dry surface. Other wall finishing options include: plaster with a special insulating compound, plasterboard sheathing with an insulating layer, etc.

2. The radiator kit includes: installing an air vent, screwing plugs into unoccupied holes in the manifolds. In case of mismatch between the diameters of pipes and manifolds, the connection is made using adapters.

3. Next, shut-off and control valves are installed. To do this, all inputs and outputs are equipped with Ball Valves. They will make it possible to produce subsequent renovation work without completely shutting down the heating system. Thermostats do not apply mandatory elements, but their use saves coolant consumption in warm days. Therefore, regarding additional devices, each owner makes his own decision.

4. When hanging radiators on the mounts, it is recommended not to remove protective film from new models. It will protect the surface of the batteries from contamination until finishing work is completed.

5. The supply and outlet pipes are connected in series using one of existing methods: threaded, crimped, pressed, by welding.

6. The next step crimping is performed. Water into the system should be opened to weak pressure, a sudden start can provoke a water hammer, as a result of which the shut-off valves will fail.

To increase heat transfer and save thermal resources, it is worth fixing a sheet of foil insulation to the wall on the back side of the radiator. Penny costs will allow you to save up to 10% on heating.

When installing a battery with a side connection, you can first hang the structures, then do the piping. In the case of a bottom connection, work begins with determining the center distance of the pipes. The installation of heating devices can be completed after the renovation is completed.

In order to rationally use energy resources and save on space heating, it is recommended to equip radiators with thermostats (a separate thermostat for each device). So in each room you can install different temperature conditions, comfortable for living.

Calculation required quantity sections are made based on the area of ​​the room and the power of one section, which is indicated in the passport.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and recommendations In the old days, it was easy to install heating radiators yourself

DIY heating radiator installation

Provide cozy atmosphere in the house even at the most cold winter Correctly selected and installed batteries can. Installing a heating radiator with your own hands will not cause any problems if you follow the instructions and advice from experts who will help you select and draw up the correct connection diagram, as well as calculate the placement.

Types of radiators

Structurally, all heating radiators are similar, but the significant difference lies in the material from which they are made. There are the following types of heating batteries:

Aluminum ones are characterized by good heat transfer and relative lightness, so it makes sense to install them in houses with wooden walls. Their disadvantage is considered to be susceptibility to changes in water pressure in the system and its chemical composition.

Bimetallic batteries

Cast iron ones do not have these disadvantages, but their heavy weight imposes some restrictions. In addition, they have a long service life (about 50 years).

The remaining two types are considered a compromise between cast iron and aluminum radiators. They have a relatively low weight and good performance characteristics.

For private houses, if they have their own well, it is possible to install heating radiators of any type, but bimetallic ones will be most convenient for installation.

Selecting a location and preparing for installation

To install heating radiators, craftsmen from housing departments or specialized companies are usually hired, but this operation can be done with your own hands. When implementing installation work it is necessary to take into account the location of the radiator relative to the window and floor, its heat transfer depends on this.

Installation of heating radiators should take place exactly in the middle of the window, the deviation from the center should not exceed 2 cm. Its width should be proportional to the width of the window sill and be 50-75% of its dimensions.

It is equally important to maintain the distance between the floor and the heating device. It should not be more than 12 cm. In this case, the gap between top point batteries and the lower edge of the window sill should not be less than 5 cm. And between the wall and the radiator - in the range of 2-5 cm.

Removing the replacement radiator

If the radiator is installed in own home, then it should be taken into account that it must be preceded by preparatory work:

• shutting off water;
• draining water from dismantled parts of the heating system;
• pressure testing of pipes (cleaning of liquid with compressed air);
• dismantling the radiator to be replaced.

Radiator connection diagrams

Installing radiators with your own hands requires a correctly selected connection diagram. It depends on the location of the inlet and outlet openings for the coolant. In total, there are three radiator connection schemes:

• cross (heat loss 2%);
• lower (12-13%);
• single-pipe (19-20% losses), also called “Leningradka”.

Connection diagram for battery with thermostat

The choice of connection diagram depends on the type of heating: single-pipe or two-pipe. The first option is most common in apartment buildings. The principle of this scheme is that the incoming and cooled coolant move along the same circuit. With a two-pipe system, the cooled coolant moves for subsequent heating through a separate pipe.

In private houses with two-pipe system For heating, the bottom radiator connection diagram is considered the most popular - it is characterized by relative ease of installation and low heat loss.

Features of connecting and installing radiators

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is impossible to avoid certain difficulties. But you can reduce them to a minimum by following the instructions and guidance provided by our specialists.

Aluminum radiators

Installing aluminum heating radiators requires assembling the sections together, screwing in a plug with gaskets and radiator plugs, and then installing the Mayevsky tap and thermostatic fittings. The aluminum radiator is installed on special brackets, pre-fixed to the wall.

Cast iron radiators

In principle, the installation of cast iron batteries is not much different from aluminum batteries, but it is necessary to take into account the weight of the radiator and the strength of the wall. This is especially true for multi-section cast iron radiators; their weight can exceed 100 kg.

In wooden or dilapidated houses with weak walls, it is more advisable to install cast iron ones not on brackets, but on special mounting legs; they can be sold separately or together with the battery. It is also advisable to use additional supports.

To increase heat transfer, the batteries are installed at an angle of about 5 degrees. It is recommended to make a slope in such a way that air accumulates at the valve, that is, this angle should be set a little higher. Must be unscrewed before installation cast iron radiators in order to check the tightness of the nipples between the connecting pipes of the sections.

Features of installation of bimetallic batteries

The bimetallic radiator, despite the fairly high price, is in great demand. The popularity of batteries of this type is explained by their high durability and immunity to the chemical composition of the coolant. But they also have some nuances during installation. It is recommended to carry out installation in a protective film, which will prevent mechanical damage.

Wall mounting occurs using brackets. Due to its lightness, the radiator can be mounted both on a solid concrete wall and on plasterboard construction. In the first case, the brackets are mounted to the wall using dowels and cement mortar, and in the second - using double-sided fastening fittings.

When installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a valve (Mayevsky) for air release. It should be located at the top bimetallic battery. It can be either mechanical or automatic. Each model contains it in the package, or its installation is provided for in the design.

When installing it is better to use automatic valve, since it allows you to remove air accumulated in the battery without human intervention, thereby extending the service life of the device.

Regardless of the type of radiator, installing it yourself must be done in strict accordance with the included instructions. By drawing up a clear action plan, calculating the installation location and using our advice, you can easily install the heating battery yourself. If you decide to entrust the work to a specialist, then thanks to the information received, you will be able to control the process and participate in drawing up a plan, which will help to avoid problems and shortcomings later.

Installation of heating batteries, do-it-yourself installation with photos and videos

Installation of heating radiators: assistance in drawing up a diagram, choosing an installation location, features of connecting the radiator, photos and videos, expert advice

All modern radiators They are designed in such a way that any owner can connect them. This process must be carried out in compliance with the requirements of SNIP.

Connection methods

According to SNIP, the installation of heating batteries may include the following connection methods:

1. Lateral.
2. Lower.
3. Diagonal.

The first method is the most common. It involves connecting the inlet and outlet pipes to the same side of the radiator. The inlet pipe is connected to the fitting located at the top, and the outlet pipe is connected to the lower fitting.

This connection method requires a large center distance, that is, the distance between two fittings. If it is small, the sections at the other end of the battery will not heat up well. When installing a radiator with a large number of sections, in order to avoid the problem of poor heating of the last sections, you need to use a water flow extension.

The lower connection involves connecting the inlet pipe to the lower fitting located at one end of the radiator, and the outlet pipe to the lower fitting located at the opposite end.

There are radiators in which both fittings are located in the bottom and are vertical. In this case, always make the bottom connection. It is not recommended to do this, because heat transfer is reduced by 5-15%.

The diagonal method is the most advantageous type of connection. This installation of the heating battery allows for minimal losses. It involves connecting the inlet pipe to the fitting located at the top and connecting the outlet pipe to the fitting located on the lower contour of the other end.

The connection can also be:

1. Consistent.
2. Parallel.

In the first case, the batteries are connected so that the outlet pipe of one of them is the inlet pipe for the other. As a result, a closed system is formed, and in the absence of a bypass, repairing one of the radiators will require shutting down the entire system. is a tube that connects the inlet and outlet pipes near each radiator. When water is supplied to the working battery, the bypass does not create any obstacles. If it is necessary to repair any radiator, they shut off the shut-off valves themselves and the water moves through the bypass.

Read also: Baseboard heater

A parallel connection consists of diverting separate pipes for each heating device from the main pipe.

Connection diagram

Any connection method can be used in a one- and two-pipe heating system.
In the first type, the batteries are installed so that they form a single chain through which water flows from top to bottom. It is not profitable to install such a heating system in a private house, since the first radiators will heat up very well, but the rest will heat up poorly. This occurs due to the flow of cooled coolant to the last devices.

The two-pipe system is more profitable because hot water comes from one riser, and the cooled water flows into another. This type of heating network piping is carried out in all private houses, because it allows you to maintain a constant specified thermal regime and makes it possible to control this regime.

Installation Rules

Installation must comply with the following rules:

1. The position of the radiator should always be horizontal without any distortions.
2. The top grille and the window sill should be separated by 5-10 cm. This space is necessary for the movement of heated air, as well as maintaining high heat transfer.
3. The bottom panel and the floor should be separated by 8-12 cm.
4. Distance between back wall between the radiator and the wall should be 2-5 cm. This norm should also be maintained if reflective thermal insulation is installed behind the radiator.
5. Tighten the valve with a force of no more than 12 kg. Since it is very difficult to determine such a force by feel, it is recommended to use a torque wrench. It will allow you to properly tighten all the valves without over-tightening or under-tightening.

Installation features

The sequence is simple:

1. Removing the old radiator.
2. Determining the location of the mounts for the new battery and making markings.
3. Fixing the brackets.
4. Preparing and hanging the radiator.
5. Installation shut-off valves.
6. Connecting pipes.

Removing the old radiator and fixing the mount

If the heating system is being created in a new house, then you immediately need to start marking the places where the brackets will be fixed. If the housing is old, you will have to dismantle it.

Read also: Heating radiator power

It is easy to do when there is a shut-off valve (ball or shut-off valve) on the inlet and outlet pipes. They are blocked and the battery is unscrewed. If they are not there, you need to shut off the riser and drain the water.

It happens that they shut off and drain water from the wrong riser. Then, when cutting pipes (if you plan to replace them) or while unscrewing nuts, you may encounter difficulties. The first situation can be dangerous, since the pipe is cut with a grinder connected to the mains. Contact of water with electricity results in tragic consequences. Therefore, before cutting, it is worth making a hole in the outlet pipe with an autogenous gun.
You need to stock up on a container to collect water.

If you install a new radiator, you need to change the position suitable pipes. They should be opposite the contours. They are placed at an angle. In this case, the inlet pipe is tilted towards the radiator, and the outlet pipe - away from it. The distance between them near the radiator should be less than near the riser. This will allow air to flow in and out of the radiator easily. The airiness of the battery will be minimal.

The brackets are usually fixed with bolts secured in dowels. Holes are drilled in the wall for them. The brackets are:

1. Wall-mounted.
2. Floor-standing.

Most of the wall ones cannot change the height. There are those that consist of a base, a moving part and a bolt. By rotating the bolt, you can raise the moving part up or down. The curved end of the bracket should be positioned so that it fits between the battery sections (when installing sectional batteries). Panel radiators have special fastenings, and it is in them that the brackets should fit.

Floor brackets can also be fixed or movable.

Wall brackets are positioned so that they are on one horizontal line. Check horizontality with a level.

Radiator preparation

In many ways, this process concerns bimetallic and aluminum sectional radiators. They are designed so that two vertical holes have a right-hand thread, and the other two have a left-hand thread.

Construction of a new house or restoration of an old building involves modernization of the heating system, including all types of work. Among them are drawing up a project, selecting a diagram for connecting radiators, arranging pipelines, and choosing the type of batteries. The key point To ensure high-quality heating of the home, is the installation of heating radiators. To master the installation technology, you should read the instruction manual and study the detailed step by step instructions and use the experience of practitioners in your work.

When choosing the option of connecting devices to pipes, they strive to ensure the greatest heating efficiency. Connection is most often carried out using three methods.

1. Side – the most common, allows you to achieve the greatest heat transfer, optimal for small radiators. The system looks like this: in the upper part the battery is connected to the inlet pipe, and in the lower part (on the same side) - to the outlet pipe. If coolant is supplied from below, it loses power. Even a non-specialist can easily complete the work; this method does not require a lot of materials.

2. Lower. The inlet and outlet pipes are located at the bottom and are connected to the main pipe hidden under the floor or baseboard. The installation scheme with a bottom connection has a significant disadvantage: a reduction in thermal efficiency by 5-15% compared to the side option. However, long radiators with bottom connections heat up better than those with side connections. And one more undesirable point: if a pipe breaks, you have to remove flooring, the downstream apartment may suffer from a leak.

3. Diagonal. Water enters through the upper pipe on one side and exits through the lower pipe on the opposite side. The best place for a diagonal connection is a private house with autonomous heating in which the coolant circulates at low speed.

If the devices have more than 12 sections, it is recommended to connect them diagonally (including if the installation location is an apartment). In systems with a side connection, the coolant, even under high pressure, cannot pass through a multi-section radiator, maintaining the temperature.

Varieties

Before the installation technology is described heating devices, it is worth studying their features. Each type has preferred connection options.

• Cast iron.

Among their advantages is the material’s resistance to wear, corrosion, high temperatures and water pressure. A cast iron battery takes a long time to heat up and stays hot for just as long. The downside is the need for annual Maintenance– painting and washing. A cast iron unit is built into the heating system different ways.

• Steel.

They are characterized by an increased heat transfer coefficient, original design, are not clogged with suspensions from the coolant. Disadvantages: susceptibility to corrosion (if made of carbon steel) or high cost (if made of stainless steel). The steel panel battery is connected using the side method; there are lower options. If the device is sectional, side mounting is preferable.

• Aluminum.

They have the highest heat transfer and attract with modern design. Installation aluminum radiators recommended for autonomous heating in a small private house. In this case, it is necessary to control the composition of water and pressure in the system. The diagonal connection is most often used: due to it, the aluminum unit works more efficiently. Models designed for bottom connections are also available.

• Bimetallic.

They successfully combine the strength of cast iron and the thermal efficiency of aluminum, and are resistant to corrosion and pressure changes. Installation of bimetallic radiators is possible both in the house and in the apartment. Wide the lineup includes panel and tubular products. You can select units various designs: standard, low, vertically located. Almost every model is designed to connect in different ways. The bimetallic radiator has 4 connecting points: two at the bottom and two at the top.

Having decided on the type of radiator, perform a simple calculation of the number of heating devices separately for each room. On average, 1 kW of thermal energy is needed per 10 m2 of room area (no more than 3 m in height). By dividing the total amount of energy by the power of the radiator, their number is determined. Information about power is contained in the product manual.

List of requirements

The current standards and rules for piping in Russia require strict compliance with a number of technical and construction regulations.

1. Installation is carried out in areas of the room with maximum heat loss. Usually this place is the gaps between the windows and the floor.

2. The battery must occupy a certain position. It is removed at least 100 mm from the window sill, 30 mm from the wall and 60 mm from the floor. The indicated distances take into account the specifics of the distribution of heated air.

3. Connection of radiators to the general network is carried out in accordance with a certain scheme, depending on the type of appliances and characteristics of the heating system.

4. Reliability of fastening to the wall is ensured by installing radiators on three brackets. Their arrangement is as follows: one fastener located at the bottom and two at the top. Installation of brackets is carried out using dowels and mortar.

5. At the top of each section, a valve is connected to bleed air from the system. It can be manual or automatic.

6. After the installation is completed, open the shut-off valves. This is done gradually, without jerking, to prevent water hammer.

Step-by-step instruction

Installing radiators of each type has its own characteristics, but several general recommendations should be followed. To ensure that the installation on your own goes without errors, first carefully study the manual that each unit has. When purchasing consumables, fittings and components, their quality is checked. When connecting radiators, all connections are made absolutely sealed.

Before starting installation with your own hands, prepare a universal and special tool:

• impact drill;
• screwdriver;
• building level;
• pliers;
• drills with pobedite tips;
• pencil, tape measure;
• torque wrench for tightening pipes.

The technology for installing heating batteries is divided into several stages.

1. A wiring diagram is designed. It is better to entrust this procedure to a heating engineer. He compiles a list of purchased products, without which it is impossible to install a radiator with your own hands.

2. Selection of materials. If the apartment has centralized heating, harness heating batteries is made using steel pipes and shut-off valves - this will prevent the fittings from breaking off when high blood pressure in system. You can purchase metal-plastic materials for a private home.

If the circuit developed by the designer requires that a ball valve with an American connection be used during installation, you should know: its sealed connection can only be made by a specialist. When installing batteries yourself, install a regular radiator valve.

3. Overlap. If one new battery is installed, the water is turned off in front of and behind it. When all heating batteries are replaced, the system is completely shut down - regardless of whether it is a private house or an apartment. The water is drained and the residue is pumped out.

4. Preparing the wall. It is necessary to level it with plaster and putty. Before the installation of fasteners begins, markings are carried out, holes are punched with a hammer drill, and dowels are installed.

5. Fastenings. The wall-mounted device is suspended on brackets. In this case, light wall partitions are drilled through, installing fasteners on the other side. The floor battery is placed on a special stand.

6. Preparation of heating radiators. The cast iron battery is first disassembled, after which the nipples are tightened. The aluminum or bimetallic unit is not removed from the packaging until the installation work is completed.

7. Assembly. The devices are equipped with valves with detachable connections, a Mayevsky valve for bleeding air, radiator plugs and plugs, and thermostats. To ensure that the battery is securely attached to all elements, the joints are sealed with tow.

It should be noted that bimetallic radiator Never assemble using sandpaper and a file to avoid leaks.

8. Installing radiators on brackets. When hanging the battery, its vertical and horizontal position is controlled by building level. If at the end of the season it is planned to drain water from the system, the radiator is positioned with a slight deviation from the horizontal towards the pipe. This will remove the water completely to keep the battery dry.

9. Connection. The plugs are removed from the batteries. If the design is single-pipe, connect a pre-prepared bypass so that, if necessary, the device can be cut off. With two-pipe heating system the battery is connected to the pipe using a squeegee, to which a valve is screwed. The fastening points are again sealed with tow.

10. Hydrotest. The technology involves checking the tightness of connections and their performance at the design operating pressure and during water hammer. The second name of the test operation is crimping heating radiators. It is quite difficult to do it yourself - it is better to invite a plumber with special equipment.

Turnkey cost

In order to heat a house or apartment as efficiently as possible, with a minimum likelihood of failures and breakdowns, it makes sense to entrust the work to experienced professionals. It consists of several stages:

• visit for preliminary assessment;
• project development;
• selection of equipment;
• installation of radiators, if necessary, their testing and startup.

The price of work for each customer is determined individually; it depends on the complexity of the project, the number of devices and their design features. To preliminarily calculate how much it will cost to install a heating system, you need to find out what the price is for one point - it indicates the comprehensive cost of installation services. On average, this figure in Moscow is 2,500 rubles. The total turnkey cost differs significantly from different contractors. To get the expected result, you should draw up an agreement with the company and constantly monitor the process and quality.

Are you planning to change the heating appliances in your own home? For this, knowledge about the types of battery wiring, methods of connecting and placing them will be useful. Agree, because the correctness of the chosen connection diagram for heating radiators in specific house or indoors directly depends on its effectiveness.

Correct connection of batteries is a very important task, because it can provide in all rooms comfortable temperature in any season. It’s good when fuel consumption is minimal and your home is warm on the coldest days.

We'll help you figure out what you'll need to get the most out of it. efficient work radiators. In the article you will find a lot of useful information about ways to connect batteries and their implementation without the involvement of specialists. Diagrams and videos are provided that will help you clearly understand the essence of the issue.

Efficient system heating can save money on fuel costs. Therefore, when designing it, you should make informed decisions. After all, sometimes the advice of a neighbor in the country or a friend who recommends a system like his is not at all suitable.

It happens that there is no time to deal with these issues yourself. In this case, it is better to turn to professionals who have been working in this field for at least 5 years and have grateful reviews.

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The first option involves using physical laws without purchasing and installing additional devices. Suitable when the coolant is water. Any non-freezing agent will circulate worse in the system.

The system consists of a boiler that heats the water, expansion tank, supply and return pipelines, batteries. The water, heating up, expands and begins its movement along the riser, visiting in turn installed radiators. The cooled water from the system flows by gravity back to the boiler.

With this circulation option, the horizontal pipeline is installed with a slight inclination towards the movement of the coolant. This system is self-regulating, because depending on the temperature of the water, its quantity also changes. The circulation pressure increases, allowing the water to heat the room evenly.

At natural circulation two-pipe and one-pipe circuits with upper wiring, two-pipe with lower wiring are used. Such methods of connecting radiators to the heating system are beneficial for small rooms.

It is important to equip the batteries with air vents to remove excess air or install automatic air vents on the risers. It is best to place the boiler in the basement so that it is lower than the heated room.

For houses with an area of ​​100 m2 or more, the coolant circulation system will have to be changed. In this case, you will need a special device that stimulates the movement of water or antifreeze through the pipes. We are talking about . Its power depends on the area of ​​the heated room. The use of a pump for forced circulation allows the use of antifreeze as a coolant. In this case, you need to install expansion tank closed type so that fumes do not harm the health of residents of the house

The circulation pump is used in two- and one-pipe circuits with horizontal and vertical system connection of heating devices.