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The main question that arises for the newly-made owner of a red-eared turtle: what to feed such an exotic pet? Providing a young individual with food requires a serious approach.How correctly you plan your pet’s diet directly determines its activity, health and life expectancy. Let's look at what you need to feed a small red-eared turtle at home.

As a rule, young animals are given only food of animal origin. Approximately 70% of the diet should consist of small lean fish and 30% of:

offal
insects
small snails
crustaceans
earthworms
squid
shrimp
crab meat
tubifex
ground beef.

If possible, pamper your pet with live aquarium guppy fish. In general, fish is very useful for the growing organism of the red ear.

What kind of fish is best to feed a small red-eared turtle?

As already mentioned, fish should be lean. This could be pollock, blue whiting, hake, cod, navaga, perch and carp. Give the fish finely chopped and with small bones. For large fish, remove the rib bones. Should I feed my reptiles raw or cooked fish? Here experts have not come to a consensus. Some believe that fish should only be raw, others insist that it should be boiled. In our opinion, there is no need to boil fish. It is enough to pour boiling water over it.

It is recommended to add bone meal (available at a pet store) or crushed eggshells to your red-eared food twice a week.

Dry food for small red-eared turtles

A turtle cannot get enough nutrients from dry food. It can be given to turtles from time to time if it is not possible to organize natural food intake. But in no case should a reptile’s diet consist of store-bought food alone. The red-eared cat should receive vitamins and microelements from natural food. Constantly feeding your pet with semi-finished products negatively affects digestion and metabolism, which can ultimately lead to various diseases.

What not to feed baby red-eared turtles

It is not recommended to feed fatty fish and fatty meat (lamb, pork) in large quantities. It is strictly forbidden to offer turtles food from the human table (boiled and fried food, sausage, bread, etc.). It is prohibited to give reptiles dry food and vitamins for cats, dogs and other mammals.

Little ones red eared turtles However, like adults, you should not feed them hot or too cold food. If the turtle dinner was stored in the refrigerator, let it sit at room temperature for a while. Food should not be given directly from the refrigerator.

Feeding mode

If adult turtles are fed once every 2-3 days, then young turtles under the age of two years – once a day. Feed is given in the morning or afternoon. The amount of food depends on the activity of the young reptile. It is recommended to calculate the serving size so that the red ear eats the food within 15-20 minutes, leaving nothing uneaten. An approximate portion is 2-3 pieces (for example, fish) 1 cm3 each.

The red-eared slider is a common, exotic predator that requires special care. And, although this reptile is an omnivore, its food must be balanced and healthy. What a red-eared turtle eats at home directly determines its appearance, health and life expectancy.

Diet of an adult red-eared turtle

Proper care of the red-eared turtle and its maintenance at home require the preparation of a special diet, as close as possible to what reptiles eat in nature:
Raw river and sea fish constitutes approximately half the diet of an adult. Low-fat types of fish are useful: pike, cod, hake, herring, blue whiting, pollock, halibut, perch, etc. The fish is fed completely: with bones, head and even entrails, i.e. just as it happens in living nature.

Beef or poultry by-products (liver and heart)– an excellent source of vitamin A, responsible for the growth and condition of the reptile’s skin. Its deficiency causes disruption of the epithelium, detachment of the horny scutes, eye disease and other diseases. Feeding the red-eared turtle with offal on a regular basis approximately 1 time per week prevents many health problems.

Crustaceans, mollusks, various insects (crickets, bloodworms, coretra, earthworms, etc.)– a good source of vitamins and calcium. They are fed to the turtle once every two weeks.
Green plant food relieves the digestive system after heavy protein foods and helps diversify the diet. The diet of an adult red-eared slider should consist of 40-50% plants. They mainly use aquatic and meadow plants: hornwort, water hyacinth, clumps of filamentous plants, dandelion leaves, lettuce, clover, etc.

Vegetables and fruits. They are offered to adult red-eared turtles. Apples, pears, grapes, tangerines, cucumbers, zucchini, zucchini, eggplant, and pumpkin are perfect.

What to feed baby red-eared turtles

The diet of young reptiles should be as varied as possible. Little red-eared turtles are already full-fledged predators, so the basis of their diet is natural protein food. The diet for babies should consist of approximately 70-80% of young river or sea fish and 20% of offal, various crustaceans, mollusks, insects and plant foods.

Small reptiles are given live aquarium fish as additional food: guppies, mollies, swordtails. They are launched directly into the turtle’s terrarium.

What red-eared turtles are not allowed to eat

Experts do not recommend giving the red-eared turtle:

fatty fish and meat;
legumes;
cabbage;
spinach;
tomatoes and other vegetables containing oxalates.

It is forbidden to give the turtle:

bread;
cottage cheese, cheese;
porridge;
sausages and sausages;
boiled and fried food;
vitamin supplements and feed intended for other animals.

Feeding frequency of the red-eared slider

One of the main causes of many reptile diseases? banal overfeeding with protein foods. Excessive nutrition can lead to pyramidal carapace, obesity, tympany, etc. Excess food is especially dangerous in at a young age, during a period of active development.

Young red-eared turtles (up to 12 cm in size at the plastron and up to one and a half years old) are fed every day only once in the morning or afternoon. The serving size directly depends on the pet’s appetite and liveliness. Give enough food at a time so that the reptile eats it within half an hour. As a rule, these are 2-3 pieces of fish measuring 1 cubic meter. cm. In case of lack of appetite in a young turtle, the portion size is reduced or a small hunger strike is arranged for 1-2 days.

Adult turtles, aged from one to one and a half years, are gradually transferred to feeding the main food once every few days. At the same time, there may be plant food in the terrarium so that the reptile can eat on the remaining days.

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Animal products

Lean meats. It could be beef, poultry or rabbit. Reptiles also like horse meat. But you shouldn’t give pork and lamb to your pet. These types of meat are very fatty and digestive tract the reptile is not designed to digest them. Some individuals can also eat small mice. Meat can be raw or cooked. Before giving it to your pet, it should be cut into small cubes.

Offal such as heart, liver and gizzards.
Fish. You should choose low-fat varieties of sea fish that do not have large bones. It could be hake, sprat, cod. To prevent calcium deficiency in the reptile's body, fish should be given along with the bones. You can also introduce live fish into the aquaterrarium, for example, guppies, which will serve as food for the red-eared turtle. Along with the fish, you can also introduce snails, which the reptile can also eat.
Seafood such as squid, octopus, green shrimp. They should be given raw.
Insects. You can buy mealworms at a pet store. In the warm season, you can catch grasshoppers and beetles. Bloodworms are suitable for feeding a turtle at home. You should not give pet cockroaches caught in your apartment, as they may be poisoned.
Gammarus. It can be live or dried. To diversify the diet, it is allowed to periodically feed daphnia and koretra, and the filter should be turned off for a quarter of an hour.

It must be remembered that if you give the animal only raw meat, this will provoke a deficiency of vitamin A in the turtle’s body and the development of rickets, which is characterized by softening of the reptile’s shell, lack of appetite, and possible loss of coordination of movement. If these signs appear, your pet should be given vitamin D.

Plant products

The diet of any red-eared slider should contain products of plant origin, but the older the animal gets, the more their quantity should increase.

You can give your pet:

Field plants: dandelion leaves, peas, clover, plantain, coltsfoot. You can include forgiven oat and barley seeds in your animal's menu.
Aquarium plants. You can plant duckweed and watercress in the terrarium. But you cannot plant “water plague” or elodea, as the plant contains poisonous sap that is dangerous for animals. It is better to plant pond algae in the aquaterrarium.
Fruits and berries, such as plums, apples, pears, citrus fruits, apricots and melons, victoria, raspberries. They need to be cut into small pieces. The bones must be removed, otherwise the turtle may choke. You should not give your reptile citrus fruits along with the peel. Reptiles like to sharpen their teeth; for this purpose, it is recommended to place a fruit tree stick in the terrarium.
Vegetables. It is allowed to feed the animal legumes, tomatoes, pumpkin pulp, cucumbers, zucchini, sweet peppers, and radishes. In winter, these vegetables are expensive, you can replace them with beets and carrots, different varieties cabbage (white cabbage, broccoli).
Edible mushrooms. They can be fed to your pet no more than once every 7 days.

Factory and homemade feeds

You can buy ready-made food for red-eared turtles in pet stores. But, unfortunately, in some of them the dosages of protein, vitamins and minerals do not meet the needs of reptiles. Sometimes reptiles may refuse artificial food due to the pungent odor. But some individuals eat only prepared food. High-quality products are produced, for example, by Tetra.

You can prepare the food yourself. To do this you will need 50 g of cabbage and apples, 70 g of carrots, 100 g of squid, 145 g of lean fish.

Pass everything through a meat grinder. Add 2 eggs and 150 g of milk. Dissolve 30 g gelatin in hot water. You will need 150 g of liquid. Mix everything, cool and add 20 drops of Tetravit. This food can be stored in the refrigerator for a maximum of 7 days. Before giving it to the turtle, it must be cut into pieces. If the size of the reptile's shell does not exceed 15 cm, then this food will be enough for it 10 times.

When your pet is sick, you can add medicine prescribed by your doctor to this food. To prevent the cubes from melting so quickly in water, you can use agar-agar instead of gelatin.

Red-eared sliders do not produce saliva, so they require water to swallow their food. To ensure that there is a number in the terrarium during feeding, you can place the reptile in a separate container with water.

Small turtles need to be fed daily; if the pet is older than 2 years, the number of feedings is reduced to 2-3 times a week. To determine the size of 1 serving, you need to see how much food the reptile eats in 30 minutes and give this amount each time.

You cannot give food from the human table, food for cats and dogs. Perhaps the turtle will eat the food offered to it, but this will negatively affect its health, in particular the liver, and may even cause death. It is forbidden to feed your pet porridge, dairy products (except cottage cheese), and bread.

To compensate for mineral deficiency, it is recommended to give the animal bone meal. You can give crushed eggshells instead. After consulting with a herpetologist, you can give your turtle a multivitamin.

Both underfeeding and overfeeding are dangerous for reptiles. If she eats too much, it will cause obesity and disease. internal organs, pyramidality of the shell. Lack of food can cause exhaustion and vitamin deficiency. If measures are not taken in time, then everything can end in the death of the pet.

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Types of red-eared turtles, sizes and features

The red-eared turtle includes three subspecies, which have their own morphological (appearance) characteristics.

The first representative of this species - Trachemys scripta scripta. Its peculiarity lies in the yellow color of the stripes on the muzzle (transitioning into a large yellow postorbital spot), which connect on the neck. There are yellow stripes on the lateral (costal) scutes of the dorsal carapace (carapace), and on the anterior scutes of the ventral carapace (plastron) - yellow spots. In size it reaches up to 27 cm.

The second representative, more familiar to all of us, - Trachemys scripta elegans. Her postorbital spots (resemble a bandage) - red and they are wide enough. There are transverse yellow stripes on the costal scutes of the carapace, and on the plastron - a large spot on each scute. Reaches up to 28 cm in size.

And the third representative, very similar in appearance to Trachemys scripta elegans, - Trachemys scripta troostii. The differences are that in this subspecies the postorbital spot is narrower and has yellow(sometimes combined with red). There are yellow transverse stripes on the costal scutes of the carapace, and on the plastron - a pattern of black spots similar to “eyes”, or simply small black spots. Reaches up to 21 cm in size.

As we can see, these turtles are far from “dwarf”, as sellers in pet stores may claim.

It is also a mistaken belief that red-eared turtles - inhabitants of our regions and Russia as a whole. The homeland of red-eared turtles is North America, Central America and northern South America; they also live in Europe and Southeast Asia. The main habitat is small reservoirs, ponds and rivers with gentle currents or coastal areas.

Common questions asked by red-eared turtle owners

How many years do red-eared turtles live?

Life expectancy of red-eared turtles at home with quality care and maintenance is 30-40 years. Therefore, you need to understand that you are making a friend almost for life.

How to distinguish a female from a male red-eared slider?

Determining the sex of a turtle is quite difficult. It is better to entrust this matter to a specialist. And for 100% determination, even research methods such as radiography with contrast and probing may be needed - it will show the presence of hemipenis sacs. However, you can try to do this yourself. For example, the length of the claws on the forelimbs: in the male they are much longer and look like elongated bayonets. Or by the length of the tail: the male has a longer tail. The male also has a notch on the abdominal shell.

Do red-eared turtles hibernate?

Some scientists claim that red-eared turtles hibernate and that they need it. However, this process can only occur under certain conditions of detention, which initially prepare the turtle’s body for a state of suspended animation (hibernation): a gradual decrease in temperature, a decrease in the length of daylight hours and the amount of food.

The process of removing the animal from the state of suspended animation will also be difficult. It is quite difficult to imagine these processes at home. Therefore, it would be more logical not to create difficulties for yourself and not to cause unnecessary harm to the health of the turtle.

All three subspecies of turtles - representatives of a semi-aquatic lifestyle. In addition, they are all carnivores and begin to eat plant foods only in adulthood.

They also require certain temperature conditions, lighting and ultraviolet irradiation modes.

Aquaterrarium for the red-eared turtle

What is a terrarium? This is a specially equipped place created for keeping reptiles. In this case, we are dealing with an aquaterrarium, since the red-eared turtle needs both land and water. Keeping them in boxes, basins, and buckets is absolutely not suitable for them!

In addition, we must remember that our turtles should live only in their “house” and under no circumstances “walk” around the apartment. You can take them in your hands only when extremely a large number of time: during transplantation for feeding or cleaning.

The future size of our turtles indicates that they need enough space to fully grow and develop. But this does not mean at all that you can immediately release small turtles into a large aquaterrarium. Every age - your own “house”, according to size.

The terrarium for the red-eared turtle should be horizontal (rectangular in length). Adult pets require “houses” with a volume of at least 150 liters, and children - about 50 l. Ordinary small turtles, which are sold in pet stores, can also be suitable for very small children.

As for the location of the aquaterrarium in the apartment, a more suitable place is in the back of the room. During the autumn-winter period, it is better not to open the windows in the room where your turtle is kept to avoid a cold draft. Yes, it is deadly for your cold-blooded pets, since a “cold” can cause a disease such as pneumonia, which becomes clearly visible when the turtle is already fully ill.

Aquaterrarium equipment

What should be required in every aquaterrarium: a thermometer to control the water temperature, a shore, a water heater and a water filter.

The presence of algae and stones is not necessary and is sometimes contraindicated. Some types of algae are toxic, and stones can be swallowed and cause a blockage in the esophagus or intestines; In addition, they make cleaning more difficult. But if you still decide to decorate your terrarium in this way, then remember that the size of the stones should not be smaller than the turtle’s head, the stones themselves should not crumble and be multi-colored (they can release toxic substances when heated). It is better to select algae after preliminary consultation with a specialist.

Coastal part of the aquaterrarium

Why does an aquaterrarium need a shore? Turtles - cold-blooded animals that are not capable of creating heat with their own bodies, as we mammals do. In nature, turtles crawl ashore to warm up and take a break from swimming; the same should be done for them at home.

Land should not occupy more than 1/3 of the aquaterrarium. The angle of rise out of the water should not be too obtuse or straight. It must be sharp and motionless so that the exit from the water does not “run away” from the turtle.
The shore itself must be made of a sufficiently durable material, without easily peeling paint and odorless.

Lighting

Lighting will be required of two types: one for heating, the other - ultraviolet.

These two types of irradiation have only the following in common:

Both lamps must be installed above the shore.
The distance to the shore should not be less than 30 cm.
Both lamps should burn for about 12 hours.

Now let's talk about each type separately.

Ultraviolet lamp for red-eared turtles

In the case of reptiles, only special lamps are used that are suitable only for them. Each such lamp has its own percentage of ultraviolet light (UVB) emitted: 2% (2.0), 5% (5.0) and 10% (10.0). 5% (5.0) lamps are suitable for turtles.

What is it for, you ask? If you do not go into the specific physiology of reptile metabolism, then without ultraviolet light calcium will not be fully absorbed and the gastrointestinal tract will not function, which will lead to quite dangerous and serious diseases in both adults and small turtles.

Thermal lighting

Conventional 60 W incandescent lamps are suitable for this type of lighting. This type is required so that your turtles do not freeze while out of water and can warm up normally for the full functioning of their body.

Water in the aquaterrarium

This is one of those points that should not be ignored under any circumstances, since it is in this environment that healthy turtles spend most of their time.

For our pets, filtered water or water that has been standing for at least a day is suitable. If the water was first filtered and then settled - you are a very good host. In this case, we are engaged in the prevention of many diseases of the shell and skin.

Water temperature in an aquarium for red-eared turtles

For creating comfortable conditions The life activity of our reptiles will require maintaining certain temperature conditions!

The water temperature should be in the range of 22-25 0 C. It can be maintained either with the help of special heating mats (provided that the size of the aquaterrarium is small enough), or with water heaters, which can be used to set the appropriate temperature. To constantly monitor the temperature, you will need a special thermometer, which must be installed in the water. In addition, it needs to be protected from the curiosity of our pets, as they can damage it, which will lead to hazardous substances into the water and poisoning the body.

We maintain the shore temperature using a heating lamp. You can control it by adjusting the height of the lamp.
Normally, the shore temperature should be in the range of 30-32 0 C.

What do red-eared turtles eat?

Feeding - a very important part of our pets’ lives. It is with food that they get everything they need. nutrients.

Remember: feed the turtles the same things we eat. - it is forbidden!

Reminder: red-eared turtles - predators and plant foods should appear in their diet only in adulthood.

Not suitable as food: meat, semi-finished meat products (minced meat, frankfurters, sausages), chicken meat, fatty fish, salty fish, fried, sweet and salty, ready-made dry food.

What to feed red-eared turtles at home, you ask? Let's discuss this now.
To simplify feeding turtles, they can be kept with fish, which they will catch and eat, receiving all the necessary nutrients.

If this option does not suit you, then we stick to the following diet, which needs to be combined: beef liver (heart and liver), fish, insects (worms, crickets without legs, cockroaches without legs), daphnia, not dry gammarus.

What fish should you feed your red-eared slider?

Suitable plant food for adult turtles is: algae (water hyacinth, hornwort, duckweed, etc.) and plants (dandelion, carrots, lettuce).

The serving size should be approximately equal to half the carapace (back shell) of the turtle. But know that if she refuses to eat, then the portion size needs to be reduced, and feeding should be stopped at that particular time. The size of one piece should be half the size of the head and should be 1/3 of the thickness of the head.

As for the frequency of feeding, small turtles up to 7-9 cm in carapace are fed once a day. Larger ones should be fed less frequently. - once every other day.

Along with the food, you can give special vitamin supplements suitable only for reptiles, this will provide them with a complete diet.
But remember that for each age and sex group the frequency and amount of feeding is different, so before giving it it is better to consult a specialist.

To pollute the aquaterrarium less, the turtle can be fed in a specially equipped fish tank (if you are not feeding it with live aquarium fish). In this case, the cage must be of a suitable size so that the pet can turn around and move freely in it.

Cleaning

The most unpleasant and difficult thing. During harvesting, the turtle must be transplanted into a specially equipped fish tank (there can be only one tank for feeding and temporary housing at the time of harvesting).

Cleaning is done once a week. In our case, a full treatment of algae and bacteria is required using antiseptics, followed by rinsing under running water. Chlorhexidine, sold at any pharmacy, is suitable as an antiseptic, or you can use a weak soap solution. During cleaning, do not forget to thoroughly treat each wall and all corners of the aquaterrarium.

Remember: provided that the aquaterrarium is thoroughly cleaned weekly, the likelihood of your turtle developing skin problems will be extremely, extremely low.

Epilogue

This article discusses general rules keeping red-eared turtles, which are suitable for all three subspecies.

Before getting a turtle, carefully weigh the pros and cons and think about whether you can provide necessary conditions maintaining your pet so that it is healthy and does not need veterinary care.

Remember: it is always cheaper and easier to properly maintain an exotic pet than to treat diseases that can be extremely dangerous in reptiles, particularly turtles.

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What kind of fish is best to feed a small red-eared turtle?

Dry food for small red-eared turtles

What not to feed baby red-eared turtles

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Diet and frequency of feeding

What and how often to feed red-eared turtles?

The menu and frequency of feeding depend on the age of the individuals.

Feeding the young.
Individuals up to 1.5 years old and up to 7.5 cm in size are predators, so for active growth and full development they need most products of animal origin. Feeding frequency: daily, once every 24 hours. The volume of food is 2-3 pieces of 1 cm³. At the same time, the terrarium of small aquatic turtles must contain algae, which they will eat as needed.
Feeding adults.
Large red-eared turtles are omnivores. The menu of these reptiles should consist of a wide range of organisms. A typical diet consists of 50% plant foods and 50% of the following animal foods in equal parts:

fish (fat content no more than 4%);
internal organs (beef and chicken heart, liver);
non-poisonous insects and crustaceans (fresh or frozen bloodworms, gammarus, daphnia crustaceans, earthworms, slugs, woodlice, crickets without legs, beetles, zofobas larvae, locusts without limbs);
other (shrimp, tadpoles, freshwater snails, squid, small frogs, mollusks).

Feeding frequency: every 1-2 days. The volume of food is 2-3 pieces of 2-3 cm³.

The red-eared turtle should be fed raw food at room temperature.

Detailed menu

At home, the following foods are suitable for feeding red whales:

Fish.
Source of high quality protein. Low-fat varieties, river or sea fish of small size. The ideal option is fry that the turtle could eat completely, including bones, scales, gills and entrails.

Suitable types:

pike;
roach;
crucian carp;
perch;
silver hake;
navaga;
cod;
haddock.

It is not advisable to give: herring, sprat, mackerel, sprat, herring and any other fatty species.

Fish constitutes the main diet of red-eared turtles. With regular feeding of this product, there is no need for additional feeding of the pet.

Plant food.
It is very important in the diet of adults who have accumulated enough protein for growth. Frequency of use: 1-2 times a week.

Plant foods that can be fed to red-eared turtles:

duckweed;
hornwort;
pistia;
Elodea;
water hyacinth;
edogonium;
spirogyra;
dandelion, clover, plantain leaves;
young white cabbage;
lettuce;
carrots, cucumbers;
foliage of mallow, daisies;
pears, apples (in limited quantities and no more than once a week);
dill, parsley;
seaweed (dry).

Not allowed: avocado, eggplant, onion, rhubarb, radish.

Finely chopped plant food is thrown into the water into a feeding container. If the turtle refuses this type of food, you should not insist.

Insects and other types of complementary foods.
Auxiliary food for adult turtles, a delicacy, a source of chitin (polysaccharides), calcium and vitamins. Frequency of use: in dry and fresh (killed) form no more than once a month.

Suitable for feeding:

Zophobas larvae;
crickets, grasshoppers, locusts;
freshwater, grape snails;
frozen and live mosquito larvae (bloodworms);
earthworms (washed from soil);
dry gammarus;
wax moth larvae.

It is undesirable to give: caterpillars, flies, bees, wasps and other insects that can cause poisoning in reptiles.

Meat and offal can be given no more than once a week, as they are rich in protein, but poor in vitamins and calcium.

Red babies need to be fed:

white poultry meat (chicken breast, turkey);
beef liver;
chicken heart.

Prohibited: pork, lamb, minced meat, frankfurters, sausages.

Seafood, dry food

Fish caviar and seafood should be given to red-eared turtles no more than once a week as a delicacy.

raw shelled shrimp;
squid;
crayfish (tail, caviar);
shellfish (scallops, mussels, raw and frozen);
non-venomous cephalopods (octopus tentacles).

Individuals who are not accustomed to such complementary feeding from an early age may refuse this type of product, so it should be replaced with a familiar variety of fish.

For variety or in the absence of natural food, you can pamper your pet with high-quality dry food designed for feeding aquatic turtles. These can be sticks, granules, tablets, flakes or capsules with a balanced composition.

Frequency: 1 time per week. Give in limited quantities.

The most famous manufacturers:

Beaphar.
Tetra.
Zoomed.
Sera.

It should be remembered that no dry food can replace a complete natural diet.

If there is a UV lamp in the aquaterrarium and the correct diet, there is no need for additional vitamin and calcium supplements for turtles.

If the conditions for keeping the pet are unfavorable, and the diet is limited for some reason, vitamin supplements (A, E, D 3, etc.) and supplements should be added to the food. Frequency of use: 1 time per week. With more frequent use, an overdose is possible.

It is advisable to put a calcium stone (limestone, chalk) or sepia (cuttlefish shell) in the terrarium. Mineral calcium supplements should contain phosphorus no more than 1% or not include it at all.

Newbie mistakes

TO typical mistakes newcomers to the cultivation and breeding of red-eared turtles include:

attempts to feed your pet on land;
using only plant foods;
infrequent or too frequent feeding;
use of only one type of feed;
insufficient attention to vitamin and calcium supplements.

To raise a healthy red-eared slider, you should:

Feed your pet if it urgently requires it.
Train your turtle to eat at the same time every day. This will allow the owner to distinguish the behavior of a very hungry pet from simple begging. The preferred feeding time for young animals and adults is morning.
Provide your pet with a varied, nutritious diet.
Monitor the turtle's well-being. Lethargy, refusal to eat, reluctance to go onto land, and hibernation are warning factors that can lead to illness and death of the animal. All these conditions require consultation with a veterinary herpetologist.

If you feed the red-eared turtle correctly, it will delight its owner for many years, or even decades, with its company and healthy, attractive appearance.

yabarsik.ru

Nutritional features of turtles

Depending on the type of food, there are three main subgroups of pet turtles:

Carnivorous species in most cases feed on meat, but approximately 10% of the diet must necessarily consist of a variety of plant products. These species include many aquatic turtles, as well as young red-eared and swamp turtles;
Herbivorous species need to feed on plant and vegetable crops, as well as fruits, but occasionally eat small amounts of lean meat products. Such exotics include land Central Asian and Mediterranean species;
Omnivorous species eat equal amounts of meat products and major plant crops. This group is represented by red-eared, marsh and red-footed turtles.

It is necessary to feed pet turtles correctly, since with an incorrectly formulated diet, metabolism is noticeably impaired. The quality of life of the exotic deteriorates, and various diseases associated with the digestive system arise.

Herbivorous turtles

The main daily diet of a herbivorous turtle includes lettuce and cabbage, as well as dandelion leaves and forbs, the amount of which should be about 80% of the total diet.

Also the main products may include vegetable crops, represented by zucchini, cucumbers, carrots and tomatoes, the amount of which can reach 15% of the daily menu. The remaining 5-6% should be bananas, pears and apples, and berry crops.

The following products supplement the basic diet of herbivorous turtles:

champignons and other easily digestible types of edible mushrooms;
plant crops in the form of sorrel, plantain, coltsfoot, lawn grass, thistle leaves, above-ground parts of clover, peas and timothy, sprouted oats and speedwell;
fruits and berries in the form of orange, tangerine, mango, plum, apricot, peach and melon;
vegetables in the form of bell peppers, beets, onions, carrot tops, squash and pumpkin, artichoke and horseradish, as well as main legumes;
berries in the form of watermelon, strawberries and wild strawberries, raspberries and blackberries.

You also need to supplement your daily diet with bran, raw sunflower seeds, dry yeast and dry seaweed.

Important! Veterinarians and experienced owners of pet turtles recommend using special dry diets intended for feeding land breeds, produced under the well-established brands Wardley, Tetra and Sera.

Once a week, it is imperative to give your domestic exotic a hard-boiled egg, and once every four weeks - garden snails and slugs, or fairly large insects.

Predatory turtles

The main daily diet of a predatory turtle includes low-fat varieties of river and sea fish, including pollock, hake, cod, navaga and perch meat, as well as fresh beef or chicken liver.

Such products are given to domestic exotics approximately once a week. Adult pets eat pieces of fish with the addition of finely crushed ridge. Young individuals need to cut food into fairly small pieces.

Supplements to the main diet of a predatory turtle include the following products:

raw seafood, including shelled shrimp, squid, octopus tentacles, mussels and oysters;
crab meat, frogs, food hairless mice or laboratory rats;
land snails, large pond snails, apple snails and coil snails;
some insects, including beetles, feeder cockroaches, earthworms, mealworms, hairless caterpillars, bloodworms, tubifex and woodlice.

Plant components in the form of aquatic plants, fruits and vegetables, and some types of cabbage are also necessary for domestic turtles to fully develop.

beef fatty meat;
pork meat;
lamb meat;
sausage;
pates;
cheeses of any kind;
dairy and fermented milk products;
bakery products.

This is interesting! A very good result is obtained by using special industrial diets for feeding, which can be loose, granular, in the form of tablets or capsules, as well as flakes or fortified sticks.

Omnivorous turtles

The main daily diet of an omnivorous turtle includes plant foods and animal products, given in equal amounts. Land omnivorous turtles need to be fed animal food in the form of food mice, baby rats and frogs, insects, snails and slugs, and aquatic ones - fish menu and seafood.

Plant foods for land exotics include land plants, vegetable crops, some fruits and vegetables, and aquatic species prefer algae and any other non-poisonous aquatic plants.

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What, how and when to feed a turtle

This is interesting! Despite the fact that pet turtles are pets that are quite capable of doing without food products for several days, and sometimes several weeks, to maintain health, they need to be fed not only correctly, but also regularly.

A hungry pet constantly and very actively examines the bottom of the terrarium or aquarium. If the turtle refuses food for too long, it is very important to show the exotic to a qualified veterinarian.

Among other things, loss of appetite is observed in animals that have recently been acquired or are adapting to unusual living conditions.

It is important to remember that the transfer of exotic food from one type of diet to another must be done gradually, at least over a couple of weeks.

If one terrarium or aquarium contains several individuals of different ages, then it is imperative to control the feeding process so that sufficient quantity All animals received food.

Feeding land turtles

Land species of turtles feed, as a rule, on food of plant origin:

cabbage;
dandelion and lettuce leaves;
fresh carrots;
beets;
fresh apples and pears;
cucumbers and tomatoes.

From time to time, it is necessary to supplement the diet of a land turtle with a boiled chicken or quail egg. Among other things, such exotics should be given special calcium and vitamin supplements every day. These pets should be fed in moderation to completely eliminate the risk of overfeeding.

This is interesting! Turtles of land species readily eat meat, which must be doused with boiling water and cut into relatively small pieces.

Meat that has not undergone sufficient heat treatment can provoke salmonellosis in exotic meats. A young turtle must be taught to take food from tweezers.

Feeding aquatic turtles

To feed young turtles of aquatic species, bloodworms, tubifex, dried daphnia and gammarus, earthworms, as well as special concentrates that are intended for feeding ordinary aquarium fish are most often used.

Large adult turtles require raw or cooked chicken or lean beef. Occasionally, you can feed the aquatic exotic fish fillet of sea fish boiled for a couple of minutes.

Important! The diet of a domestic turtle must necessarily include insects, including mealy bug larvae, domestic cockroaches and various beetles.

Older specimens perfectly tolerate plant food in the form of almost any algae, with the exception of elodea and poisonous limnophila, as well as pond duckweed, thoroughly washed with boiled water. Garden lettuce leaves or dandelion leaves will also be a worthy replacement for seaweed.

All feed is poured directly into the water. The amount of feed should not be excessive, since uneaten food remains quickly rot in the aquatic environment, making the aquarium space unsuitable for exotic life.

You can periodically give your aquatic turtle live small aquarium fish.. Guppies and swordtails, as well as goldfish, are best suited for these purposes.

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DIY turtle food

A very common and easy-to-make treat for pet turtles is a food mixture based on vegetable agar-agar or food gelatin of animal origin.

Such food can not only completely solve the issue of adequately feeding a turtle, but also allows you to make your pet’s diet as varied, nutritious and healthy as possible.

To prepare, you need to purchase the main ingredients presented:

cabbage – 50g;
apples – 50g;
carrots – 50g;
sea fish – 145g;
a couple of raw eggs;
raw squid – 100g;
powdered milk – 150g;
gelatin – 30g;
clean drinking water– 150ml;
“Tetravit” – 20 drops;
“Calcium glycerophosphate” – 10 tablets.

Gelatin should be dissolved in water, which will provide the basis for a nutritional mixture, to which all of the above ingredients must be added, as well as crushed Calcium Glycerophosphate and Tetravit tablets.

Important! Pre-grind all components in a meat grinder or blender, then mix thoroughly.

The prepared nutritional mixture must be stored in the refrigerator.. Before giving it to the animal, such food is cut into small cubes and warmed at room temperature. This amount of ingredients is designed to prepare ten full servings for feeding an adult.

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What not to feed a turtle

Here are some of them:

poisonous plants such as nightshades, buttercups and medicinal plants containing alkaloids;
dieffenbachia and euphorbia, azalea and oleander, elodea and lagenandra, ambulia, daffodils and crocuses, cyclamen and euphorbia, delphinium and foxglove, hydrangea, jasmine and lily, lobelia and lupine, mistletoe and potato tops, rhododendron;
peel of any citrus crops;
berry and fruit seeds;
root crops and tops of radishes and radishes;
canned and dry ready-made food for any warm-blooded pets;
cereals, cheese, bread, milk and cottage cheese, boiled or fried foods.

It should be remembered that the stomach and intestinal tract of a turtle are completely unsuited to the process of digesting boiled, stewed or fried meat, which is due to the absence in the body of exotic enzymes that can break down proteins denatured during heat treatment.

Among other things, a large number of the following products are extremely harmful for a domestic turtle of any kind:

spinach;
cabbage;
peas;
bean sprouts;
turnip;
leaf mustard;
radishes;
wild cruciferous plants;
tomatoes;
asparagus;
grains and cereal crops;
forest mushrooms;
canned or fresh pineapple;
raw liver or kidneys;
too fatty varieties of sea fish;
river fish;
lamb and pork;
any nuts.

You should not give turtles large amounts of potatoes, celery and lettuce, onions and garlic, aromatic garden herbs, or too sweet fruits or berries. Abuse of meat often causes rickets in turtles..

It is also necessary to remember that harm to domestic exotics can be caused by ready-made special diets, which consist of a large amount of fish meal, and are also supplemented with dyes or preservatives.

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Video about turtle diet

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simple-fauna.ru

The red-eared turtle (Trachemys scripta), also called the yellow-bellied turtle, is the most common among pet turtle hobbyists. Unfortunately, such popularity also has a downside: a huge number of domestic red-eared turtles are doomed to death or life in unsuitable conditions. Unscrupulous sellers often do not know or hide details from buyers in order to make money. To make this happen less often, we will tell you in detail about the maintenance, feeding and care of this turtle.

Brief introduction

The red-eared turtle at home is very hardy and is well suited for beginners. On the one hand, they live a long time and often become the first species of turtles for many hobbyists, but on the other hand, people who buy them often destroy them. They don’t know that turtles need water and land (shore), which should be warm and where UV rays should reach. At the same time, they spend most of their time in water, which must be clean, warm and regularly changed. As a rule, all problems and diseases are caused by careless owners who do not know that dirty water causes infections; without calcium, the shell will become crooked; without heat and a UV lamp, the turtle does not absorb calcium and gets sick!

They are fast, strong and can be aggressive.

They easily attack other turtles, and each other. They are also known for their personality and charisma, which sets them apart from other turtle species. They are very skilled when it comes to feeding and can take food from each other. IN wildlife, being an invasive species, they displace and destroy endemics so that in Australia they are outlawed and exterminated.

American red-eared turtles can be excellent pets, if only because allergies to reptiles are rare. However, if you decide to have her as a gift for a child, remember that all responsibility for her health and behavior lies with you! Children cannot care for a turtle at the proper level; moreover, they can quickly lose interest in a new toy and abandon it. And she needs to be fed, water changed, warmed, even washed. How long do red-eared turtles live? With good care, a turtle can live from 20 to 40 years.

Habitat in nature

The red-eared freshwater turtle is native to North America, it is especially common along the Mississippi River before it flows into the Gulf of Mexico. She lives in a warm climate in the southern states of the USA, from Colorado to Florida. But its popularity is great and now it is often found in nature around the world, often posing a threat to local fauna.

IN natural environment In its habitat, it needs the following conditions: fresh water, places to bask, dense vegetation and for a nest. Usually these are lakes, ponds, swamps, and creeks. Prefers reservoirs with warm water and a weak current, always with places above the surface of the water where it will crawl out to warm itself. Often in such places they lie directly on top of each other. The bottom in such places is usually sandy or silty. The habitat is usually limited to the water's edge; American red-eared turtles do not like to move far from the shore, although females need solid ground to lay eggs.
Small turtles in nature feed on fish, snails, insects and various plants.

Appearance, size, life expectancy

The red-eared turtle is recognizable and difficult to confuse with other species. A characteristic red (sometimes orange) stripe starts from the eyes and continues along the neck. Carapace ( top part shell), round and smooth, olive green with black and yellow lines. The plastron (lower part of the shell) is also smooth, yellowish in color with dark spots. Young turtles have a very bright green shell, but it darkens with age. With age, the spots on the shell darken, and the red stripe on the head turns pale.

The size of a red-eared slider is determined by measuring the length of the shell from edge to edge with a ruler. In this case, they do not pay attention to the curvature of the shell, so it is best to measure with a ruler rather than a tape measure.
Only hatched turtles are about 2.5 cm in length, after a year of life they grow to 5–7 cm. Males become sexually mature at a size of about 10 cm, and females 12.5. The average size turtles from 25 to 30 cm, depending on the conditions and species. Males are smaller in size than females.

Please note that size cannot be a sign of age. The fact is that at home turtles grow faster than in nature, this is the result of overfeeding and ideal conditions. But, with proper maintenance and feeding at home, turtles live longer than their wild relatives. A domestic turtle can live up to 40 years, while a wild turtle can live no more than 20.

1 year: 6 cm.
2 years: female - 9 cm, male - 8 cm.
3 years: female - 14 cm, male 10 cm.
4 years: female - 16 cm, male - 12 cm.
5 years: female - 18 cm, male - 14 cm.
6 years: female - 20 cm, male - 17 cm.

Sense organs

The red-eared slider has well-developed senses, especially vision and smell. They can distinguish colors both in the water and above it, and can look out for nesting sites for other turtles. They notice movement very well, at a distance of up to 40 meters, no matter if it is a prey or a predator. They also have a good sense of smell, which helps them find food.

But her hearing is not very good, her ears are covered with skin and feel only dull sounds and vibration. The shell is sensitive to touch because nerves pass through it. In addition, they have a sense of touch and can reject unpalatable foods in favor of tastier ones.

As for sounds, it can make hissing, snorting, or short sounds like a squeak. Turtles don't breathe underwater, they rise to the surface for oxygen!

How to determine gender?

Just as pet red-eared turtles grow faster, they also become sexually mature faster. A turtle becomes sexually mature at the age of one year, and you cannot confidently determine the sex of a turtle if its size is less than 10 cm. You can more or less confidently say whether it is a male or a female when the age of the male is 2–4 years, and the female is 3–5 years old and their size is about 10–15 cm. However, in the case of abundant feeding, they may become sexually mature earlier.

The main differences between a male and a female are: females are larger and have a shorter tail. In addition, in the female, the cloaca is located closer to the base of the tail. An indirect sign can be the claws on the paws; in males they are longer and curved. From even more relative characteristics— in males the plastron is slightly concave inward, which helps him during mating.

Buying a turtle

So, you have decided to get a red-eared turtle. You can simply go to the market or pet store and choose the first one you come across. Or it can be more difficult, first read, find out, create conditions, buy and take it to the veterinarian. For what? Sellers often keep them in unsuitable conditions, and a veterinarian will check the turtle for wounds, infections, tightness, and disease.

If you already have turtles, then it is best to keep the purchased ones in quarantine for 3 months. You cannot keep baby and adult turtles together, as this is fraught with accidental and intentional injuries! Only turtles similar in size and living conditions can live together.

After purchasing and changing your place of residence, it may take several days to adapt. During this time, the turtle can be either inhibited or very active; it is better to leave it alone, but do not forget to feed and look after it.

Handling the turtle

]When you pick up a turtle you need to be very careful! They may be slippery with water, resist, hiss, and have bowel movements. They have sharp claws, powerful paws and they bite painfully, so it’s not always pleasant to pick them up. Try to hold the turtle with both hands! Due to awkward handling, many owners and even more turtles suffered.

After holding the turtle in your hands, wash them with soap! This is especially important for children, since despite the fact that the red-eared turtle is domestic, it lives in a different environment and there are different bacteria there. It is especially important to keep the aquarium clean and the food fresh, as turtles can carry salmonellosis.
Ideally, any animal in the house should not have access to the kitchen and places where food is prepared. Avoid washing your turtle in kitchen sink, and also do not wash the aquarium and accessories there.

Handling babies

Most turtles appearing in home aquarium- still kids. They are still very tender and it is important to make sure they eat well and are comfortable. In cubs high level mortality, they are susceptible to disease and can die for no apparent reason.

If you notice something on your turtle's plastron, it could be the yolk sac. Newly hatched turtles consume the nutrients from it and it should not be removed or disturbed. They may refuse food at first, and begin to eat after the yolk sac has completely resolved.

Avoid holding small turtles in your arms. They are, of course, beautiful and elegant, but they can also get scared, get stressed and get sick. Don't stand over the aquarium or knock on the glass; let them get used to it for a few days and start eating. It is very important that the temperature of water and air (land) be stable.

You cannot place an aquarium with a red-eared slider in direct sunlight or in a draft. Make sure that she has free access to dry land and that the area is heated with a special lamp. Keeping temperatures for baby turtles should be slightly higher than for adult turtles! This is 26-27C for water and up to 32C for sushi. The water should be as clean as possible and if not good filter, then replace it every couple of days. Feeding - branded food for turtles with calcium, fortunately they are now wide choose. As already stated, do not keep baby and adult turtles together. Remember, most problems can be avoided simply by creating the necessary conditions.

Fights and aggression

If you consider an aquarium as a small pond, red-eared turtles will exhibit dominant behavior towards others. They can easily injure others with their claws or bites. Males may chase females, and this often results in severe aggression with biting, severed tails, or death. Adding a new turtle may provoke fights, especially if the turtles are already sexually mature.
If this happens, significantly increasing the space may help, although it does not guarantee success. Feeding alone (alone outside the aquarium) also reduces aggression. You can add barriers, plastic plants or walls to prevent the animals from seeing each other.
In general, this is a wild animal by nature, and this behavior is more than normal. If you don't want problems, then you need to keep them alone.] Red-eared turtles feel great living without a mate.

Adult turtle and babies - struggle for food:

What do you need to buy for maintenance?
You understand that prices can vary greatly, so we’ll just list the necessary things:

Aquarium for turtle 200 liters
100W water heater
Filter (can be internal, but preferably external)
Ultraviolet lamp for aquatic turtles with UVB 10%
Heating lamp
Lamp
Thermometer
Land/shore/island

As you can see, the list is quite serious and the most important thing is that all this is really necessary. Now do you understand why so many pet turtles are dying?

How to care for a red-eared slider?

For almost everyone who wants to get a turtle, the first problem is finding an adequate container and purchasing additional equipment. And then they begin to understand that the content is more complex than they imagined. And very often, owners simply don’t buy what they need, and then the animal suffers and dies.

Here, even such a simple thing as where to place the terrarium can cause problems. Aquarium from 150 liters, plus water, equipment, shore. The output will be more than three hundred kilograms, and not every table can handle it.

A larger aquarium will allow your aquatic turtle to remain more active and healthy. ]Remember - if you keep a turtle in close quarters, it will not stay small! This is a common misconception that also applies to aquarium fish and other animals. She will become sick, twisted, but not small!

Red-eared turtles: care and maintenance

So, for maintenance you will need an aquarium or terrarium for the red-eared turtle (or rather an aquarrarium, since it needs both land and water), from 150 to 200 liters. When you look at a small turtle, such requirements seem too high, but it will grow up and become much larger. There should be enough water so that the turtle can turn over freely in it, that is, more than the width of its shell.

You also need artificial land or an island on which the turtle will crawl out and bask. Such an island can be bought at a pet store; they are specially made. If you decide to do it yourself, then remember that it should be a sloping climb, but one that will be comfortable for the animal to climb. In principle, that's all that is needed from him. You can make an island with your own hands; in nature, turtles choose snags, stones, old tires, or any debris sticking out of the water. But, it is easier to buy a ready-made product, since it must meet certain conditions: not be toxic, be stable, have a textured surface, and not have sharp corners or burrs.

The island must occupy at least 25% of the surface of your aquaterarium and meet the following requirements:
warming up is the main purpose of the shore for a turtle. The temperature on it should be 10 degrees higher than in the water. Too high a temperature is not good, it can lead to hyperthermia (overheating) in the turtle.

be semi-submerged, at least one side must be submerged
be safe so that the turtle does not get stuck between the wall of the aquarium and the shore itself
do not release toxins when heated and in water
be stable, since red-eared turtles are quite strong and can turn over the bank
have a textured surface

Example of an aquaterrarium with a turtle and fish:

Priming

You don’t have to use it at all, like any decor, turtles don’t need it. However, if you want the aquaterrarium to look less dull, then use only large stones. For example, turtles can swallow gravel and die; besides, the soil makes caring for the aquarium more difficult.

Heating the shore for a turtle

In nature, turtles come ashore to warm themselves, and the same should be done for them in a home terrarium. To achieve the desired temperature of 30-35C (on the shell), the lamp must be located above the turtle. You will need to look at the thermometer regularly to check the settings. Be careful as placing a lamp too close can cause burns, especially if you are keeping multiple aquatic turtles as they may climb on top of each other and be closer to the heat source.

Also, do not forget that when turtles dive into the water they raise splashes, and if they hit the base they can easily destroy it, since it is hot. So the lamp for turtles should be closed from water and fumes.
Overall, you can buy suitable lamp in a pet store, especially since they are now sold in pairs with UV lamps, which are needed separately.
The heating lamp, like the UV lamp, should work throughout the day, which is 10–12 hours.

Ultraviolet lamp for turtles

Proper lighting and heating are critical important points in keeping the red-eared slider. In nature, it has enough sunlight and heat to produce all the necessary elements. But in captivity she lacks neither warmth (we talked about it above) nor spectrum and needs special care. More precisely, UV rays, which are needed so that it can properly absorb calcium and produce B vitamins. In the absence of a UV lamp in the terrarium, the turtle begins to poorly absorb calcium, and it needs it for the normal development of its shell. The result is terrible animals, suffering from rickets, with severely curved shells.

The heating lamp, like the UV lamp, should work throughout the day, which is 10-12 hours. Moreover, glass or plastic blocks a significant part of the rays and the UV lamp should hang above the turtle. For adult turtles, a lamp with UVB 10% is used.

Aquarium water

Since the red-eared turtle is aquatic view, then she spends most of her time in water, so monitoring its quality is very important. Turtles eat, sleep and defecate in the water, so it needs to be filtered and changed frequently. Dirty water is one of the sources of discomfort, disease and infection.

The minimum water level in the aquarium is such that the turtle could turn over if it suddenly ends up on its back. That is, no less than the width of its shell. However, if possible, you should keep it higher, since the more water, the more stable it is and the cleaner it remains. In this case, the turtle must have free access to the shore; it must be able to climb onto it and warm itself at any time.

The water must be left for at least 24 hours so that the chlorine leaves it and it reaches room temperature. ]The water temperature in an aquarium with a turtle should be 22-28 °C and not fall below 20; if this is possible, then it should be heated using a heater. Be sure to use a thermometer, don't trust your feelings!
The purity of the water is very important, since turtles both eat and defecate in it. Harmful substances such as ammonia and nitrates accumulate very quickly, and the water begins to stink. To avoid this, change the water in the aquarium once or twice a week. You can also use an internal or external filter, however, this does not replace water changes. For a turtle, internal filters are too low-power, and external filters are good, but quite expensive.

How long can a red-eared turtle live without water if it escapes from the aquarium? For quite a long time, it happens that they run away from the aquarium and the owners find them only a few days later, lethargic, but alive. In general, she will live quietly for a day or two, but will suffer from drying out.

Feeding

Omnivores feeding various types stern. Variety is important to keep your turtle healthy. You can feed: artificial food, food for aquarium fish, vegetables, aquarium plants, insects, fish, invertebrates. In addition to variety, it is important to provide a balanced diet high in calcium. Like all wild animals that live indoors, there is a tendency to overeat.

Young turtles are mostly omnivores. But as they grow and mature, they become more and more herbivorous. Omnivorousness means that the diet contains a large amount of protein, but in adult turtles it is much less. Turtles of any age will prefer live prey or carrion, but should only be fed occasionally. It is also necessary to provide additional calcium for the normal formation and growth of the turtle's shell.

What to feed a red-eared slider?

They eat almost everything, but the main food may well be artificial food for aquatic turtles, since there are many options and types. Their composition is specially selected to provide all the necessary substances for turtles. The high protein content of commercial feeds allows them to be fed in small portions.

To make feeding more balanced, add calcium and plant foods and your turtle will be quite happy. Please note that commercial feeds most often already contain calcium additives; read the labels on the packaging.

Red-eared turtles require water to swallow because they do not produce saliva. They can take food on land, but will drag it into the water to eat it. You can use this to your advantage and feed them in a separate container, so the water in the aquarium will remain clean for a longer time.

Feeding with plant foods

Fresh vegetables should always be given to your turtle, regardless of whether he shows interest in them or not. A good mix of vegetables contains the necessary fiber, calcium, vitamins A and K. Aquarium plants can also be given, especially since they are similar to those that the turtle eats in nature.] It is especially important to feed adult and old turtles with plant foods! Their diet should consist of 75% vegetables and aquarium plants. It can be duckweed, riccia, ludwigia, hornwort, lettuce, pieces of cucumber and zucchini, boiled dandelion and nettle, clumps of filamentous algae.

Red-eared turtles and live food (guppies, snails)

Poor goldfish (slow you say?)

How much and how often should you feed red-eared turtles?

A difficult question, since for the most part it depends on the size, age and the food you give. Turtles up to one year old need to be fed artificial food daily, and you can also give plant food daily, even if she refuses. But a turtle older than a year can be fed every other day or even two. However, plant foods can again be fed more often.

The amount of food may also vary. Newly hatched turtles should receive more protein, approximately 50% of the total number stern. Since most turtle foods contain about 40%, you can additionally feed fish such as guppies, insects, and earthworms. For adult turtles, the percentage of artificial food is reduced to 10-25%, and the rest should be various plants.
Since the size, shape and composition of feed can differ significantly, you need to focus on what the manufacturer writes on the packaging.

Hibernation

Hibernation is the period in which the red-eared slider enters during the winter months.] There is no need for a pet turtle to hibernate! Moreover, it is not recommended! Never encourage her to do this.

Reasons why hibernation may be unsafe:

you may not have enough experience to care for her at this time
Most likely, in order for her to hibernate normally, you don’t have the conditions
young and sick turtles may be too weak to survive the hibernation period
your turtle may not need it at all

Turtles hibernating in nature burrow into leaves and silt at the bottom of a reservoir, the depth of which is shallow, and vice versa into the surface. They do not rise to the surface during this time, but absorb oxygen through membranes in the mouth, pharynx and cloaca. In this case, the depth of the reservoir is important so that the water is not too cold, but also contains enough oxygen. Most artificial conditions and ponds are unable to recreate these conditions.

In general, a pet red-eared slider should not and should not be hibernated. By the way, the key condition here is the water temperature, it must be maintained at 24-26C. Lower temperatures just remind her of winter and hibernation.

Reproduction of red-eared turtles

Whether a turtle is sexually mature or not depends on its size. Approximately: 2-4 years for a male and a shell of more than 10 cm and 2-5 years for a female and 12-13 cm. Mating games begin with a mature male (although young ones can also try), with a kind of courtship. During which he swims in front of the female, with his muzzle towards her and waves his paws very quickly in front of her eyes. In nature, breeding occurs in March and June, but domestic turtles can mate throughout the year.

When a turtle is pregnant, that is, carrying eggs, you need to prepare a special place for her where she will lay these eggs. A female red-eared slider can carry eggs without a male, but they will not be fertilized! You can gently feel the eggs between the carapace and her hind legs, but be careful, they are very fragile. The female will instinctively look for a place to nest and lay eggs. A clutch can contain up to 20 eggs for a large female. If the conditions are suitable, then the female lays up to 3-4 clutches per season.

In a home aquaterrarium, the female signals preparation for reproduction by changing her behavior. She becomes very restless, imitates digging movements with her hind legs and tries to get out of the aquarium. Also during this time, she spends more time on land and needs calcium and UV rays. The place where she can lay her eggs is very important; if there is not one, she will lay them in the water or even carry them further, which will cause them to harden. If you see that a turtle has laid one or two eggs, try to make a nest for it. Most likely, the rest of the clutch has not yet hatched and she is still pregnant.

]If the female does not lay eggs, they will harden and can cause infection and death of the animal. Even a properly prepared nest is not a guarantee that everything will go well, since the turtle may be old, tired, and sick. If she tries to lay her clutch, but nothing works, then it is better to take her to the veterinarian. Possible signs of problems: decreased activity, heavy breathing, depressions or swelling near the cloaca. If there is an unpleasant liquid coming out of it or there is an odor, then the eggs inside may have broken. If you have any health problems with your red-eared slider, contact your veterinarian immediately!
Mating games:

Health and illness

]More than 85% of all diseases of red-eared turtles are the result of improper care, maintenance and feeding, and most often all at once. It is not difficult to maintain clean water and the correct temperature for your pet, as well as to create the necessary conditions.

Sick turtles should be kept at more high temperature, in most cases 27-30 Celsius. At this temperature, the immune system operates at its peak efficiency. It is important to maintain fluid balance in the turtle's body so that it does not become dehydrated. Ensuring that she drinks and stays in water is more important than her nutrition, since a sick turtle can die from dehydration and its kidneys will fail. Even in emaciated turtles, fluid balance is first restored, and then feeding begins.

A sick turtle swims poorly, swims on one side, and may even drown. Reduce the water level and make sure she can come ashore as soon as she wants.
If you suspect an infection, immediately isolate the animal and be sure to wash your hands after handling it.

The basis for success in treating a turtle is contacting a specialist. Do not treat the animal yourself, go to the veterinarian!

The main diseases of red-eared turtles and their symptoms

Symptom:
The red-eared turtle's eyes are swollen or red and often does not open them. The skin around them is red, swollen, and there may be discharge from the eyes.
Probably this:
A bacterial infection of the eyes, most often caused by dirty water. Change the water, clean the aquaterarium, check the temperature conditions.
Treatment:
Antibiotics in drops, cleaning the aquarium.

Symptom:
Formations in the mouth, most often necrotic in nature. The turtle refuses to feed; its eyes may be closed.
Probably this:
A bacterial infection in the mouth caused by gram-negative bacteria.
Treatment:
A serious condition requiring immediate treatment. The mouth should be cleansed using gauze and an antimicrobial solution, removing affected tissue. The mainstay of treatment should be antibiotics prescribed by your veterinarian. If started early, it responds well to treatment.

Symptom:
The turtle is lethargic and holds its head high or in an unusual position. May exhibit weakness in front or hind legs, may have discharge from the mouth or nose, and often wheeze.
Probably this:
Serious respiratory infection, likely pneumonia.
Treatment:
A visit to the vet is definitely needed. Antibiotic injections are prescribed first (antibiotics are not given to turtles orally, due to the duration of action and the unpredictability of the effect when passing through the gastrointestinal tract)

Symptom:
The soft shell of a red-eared turtle. The carapace or plastron (the upper or lower part of the turtle's shell) is soft, with visible hemorrhages. May be bad smell(turtle stink), the affected area increases rapidly.
Probably this:
Bacterial infection of tissue, probably from injury or illness. Typically caused by gram-negative bacteria.
Treatment:
Treatment of the affected area with antibacterial drugs, removal of dead tissue, isolation. Antibiotics as prescribed by a veterinarian. In most cases, the cause is injury - a burn from a heater, damage from sharp stones, etc.

Symptom:
Lethargy, weakness, possibly redness of the paws or plastron.
Probably this:
Sepsis - blood poisoning
Treatment:
In most cases, sepsis is the result of an injury through which bacteria from dirty water. Treatment is antibiotics, and they are correct and fast.

Symptom:
Carapaz (turtle shell) is soft and may be twisted. Weak limbs, problems with feeding.
Probably this:
Calcium deficiency, complete or partial.
In very advanced cases, the turtle dies. Treatment consists of injections of calcium supplements, plus a review of feeding and increased UV radiation.

Symptom:
Fresh, open wound.
Probably this:
The result of a fight, fall or damage to decor or stones.
Treatment:
Remove the cause of the injury. Treat the wound, clean the aquarium, make sure that the wound does not become a gateway for infection and sepsis.

Symptom:
Swelling or inflammation in the head.
Probably this:
Abscess in the ear. In the case of the red-eared slider, the most common cause is dirty water.
Treatment:
Surgery under general anesthesia.

To properly feed turtles, you need to study what they eat in nature. Even the diets of different land turtles vary greatly depending on their habitat. For example, steppe tortoises eat more succulents and steppe plants in nature, but radiata and star tortoises more often eat vegetables, fruits, and flowers. Aquatic turtles do not often feast on fish; more often they are content with insects, snails, and tadpoles.

This menu may be adjusted depending on the recommendations of experienced turtle keepers. On Sunday (Sunday) it is better to do a fasting day and not feed the turtles at all.

Important:

Do not overfeed, especially young animals
Feed no more than once a day in the morning or afternoon (not in the evening)
After half an hour for aquatic animals or an hour for land animals, remove food
If she doesn’t want to eat, but she’s healthy, don’t force her, but don’t spoil her with just what she likes

Summer diet for the Central Asian steppe tortoise

Turtles < 7 см	Turtles > 7 cm	Feed	Top dressing
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu	Mon, Wed	fresh greens (dandelions, plantain, clover, alfalfa and other plants)*
Fri, Sat	SB	summer vegetables and their tops (zucchini, cucumbers, carrots, green onions, dill) 80%
		some fruit (apple, plum, pear) 15%
		a little berries (strawberries, raspberries, pitted cherries) 5%

* it is better to collect greens outside the city, away from roads
** constant presence of sepia (cuttlefish bone) in the terrarium

Winter diet for the Central Asian steppe tortoise

Turtles < 7 см	Turtles > 7 cm	Feed	Top dressing
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu	Mon	store-bought salads (cress, frisee, lettuce, iceberg, romaine, chicory, chard)
		or pre-frozen or dried dandelions, clover, etc. from the summer menu
		or grown on the window at home (salads, basil, dandelions, carrot tops)
Fri, Sat	SB	autumn-spring vegetables and their tops (zucchini, pumpkin, carrots, green onions, dill) 90%	+ vitamins and calcium powder
		some fruit (apple, pear) 10%
		or houseplants(coleus, tradescantia, calendula, petunia, hibiscus...)

* constant presence of soft hay and sepia (cuttlefish bone) in the terrarium

Summer diet for freshwater (red-eared, marsh) turtles

Turtles < 7 см	Turtles 7-12 cm	Turtles > 12 cm	Feed
Mon	PN1	PN1	river fish with entrails and bones (crucian carp, carp, bream, pike perch, perch, pike) from a store or from fishing
	Tue, Thu, Fri	Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat	fresh greens (dandelions, plantain, alfalfa and other plants with large leaves)
VT	SR1	CT1	insects caught live/frozen (bloodworms, krill, coretra, daphnia, gammarus*) (fillies, crickets)
SR	SB1	PN2
Thu	PN2	CT2
PT	CP2	PN3	earthworms or tadpoles or frogs
SB	SB2	CT3	snails

*** if it is difficult for a turtle to eat snails, fish with bones and sepia, then you can feed it food from tweezers and sprinkle it with vitamins and calcium
**** The number next to the day of the week indicates the week number (first or second).

Winter diet for freshwater (red-eared, marsh) turtles

Turtles < 7 см	Turtles 7-12 cm	Turtles > 12 cm	Feed
Mon	PN1	Mon	river fish with entrails and bones (crucian carp, carp, bream, pike perch, perch, pike) from a store or from winter fishing
	Tue, Thu, Fri	Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat	store-bought salads (cress, frisee, lettuce, iceberg, romaine, endive, chard), sometimes a piece of apple, cucumber, pear
VT	SR1	CT1	Reptomin or other balanced dry food, or repeat any other food from this list
SR	SB1	PN2	live/frozen insects (bloodworms, coretra, daphnia, krill, gammarus*) (crickets, mealworms)
Thu	PN2	CT2	beef or chicken liver or heart, or again fish with entrails
PT	CP2	PN3	shrimp (preferably green) or mussels
SB	SB2	CT3	aquarium fish (guppies, neons) or snails or naked mice

* gammarus is not dry, but live or frozen for fish
** it is desirable to constantly have snails and small viviparous fish (neons, guppies) in the aquarium, aquatic plants, sepia (cuttlefish bone)
*** The number next to the day of the week indicates the week number (first or second).

For other less popular species, see the “Description of Species” for natural and homemade diets.

Many different types of reptiles can be kept in captivity. Among these pets are . This reptile has a beautiful color, small size and a black horizontal line in the eyes, giving a slanted look. She is easy to care for, intelligent as for other species of turtles and can live up to thirty to fifty years. Before purchasing this animal, you should familiarize yourself with what to feed the red-eared turtle at home.

Animal feed

Young sliders should consume at least 70% animal food in their daily diet. Whereas older reptiles can completely switch to a plant-based diet or maintain meat consumption at 10-25%.

The turtle can eat raw and boiled (without salt and spices) pieces of lean meat:

bird,
rabbit meat,
horse meat,
beef.

Another element of the diet is offal:

heart,
navels,
liver.

Smaller mice are also suitable for feeding.

The slider will not be able to digest fatty types of meat such as lamb or pork.

It must be remembered that if the diet consists only of meat products, this can lead to a lack of vitamin A.

For fish, lean river fish is suitable, from which you need to remove the offal and bones . It is important to soak the fish in hot water for a few minutes before eating to destroy the thiaminase enzyme to prevent the development of vitamin B1 deficiency.

Aquarium fish can be used as food. For example, swordtails, guppies, goldfish.

As a change to the main diet, a raw mixture of squid, green shrimp and octopus is added. It is sometimes acceptable to give the meat of some snails - mariz, coils, pond snails.

You can diversify the menu with the help of insects. You can feed your red-eared turtle:

crickets,
bugs,
bloodworm,
grasshoppers
and even caterpillars.

You can add live or dried gammarus, daphnia and coretra - but this is done occasionally.

You should avoid pet cockroaches because these insects are often poisoned.

Also not the best food for a turtle.

Plant based food

What to feed the red-eared turtle besides meat? Herbs, berries, fruits, vegetables are an essential part of your pet’s diet.

In an aquaterrarium you can plant pond algae, spirogyra, water fat, and duckweed. They are quite suitable for food and decorate the reptile’s home.

Of the land herbs turtles eat:

sprouted grains of oats and barley,
plantain,
clover,
coltsfoot,
dandelion leaves.

As an additional treat they give:

peaches,
apples,
plums,
apricots,
pears, after cutting them into pieces.

But you should not abuse such a delicacy.

Another source of vitamins can be pumpkin, celery, zucchini, broccoli, beets, carrots, eggplants, cucumbers, and tomatoes.

Some experts allow the inclusion of legumes and dried seaweed in the feed.

Mushrooms can be given several times a month. Add pieces of champignons, russula, and boletus.

Ready food

Feeding the red-eared turtle exclusively with dry food is highly not recommended, but ready-made food can be included as an addition to the main diet. which should be no more than 5-10% of the total diet. There are several manufacturers with more or less balanced nutrition for turtles. These include:

Tetra,
Nutra Fin,
Sera.

A wide range of such food is produced in the form of flakes, tablets, granules and even capsules.

Often the contents are modified aquarium fish food and will not be balanced enough for the reptile's needs.

DIY turtle food

You can prepare food for your red-eared turtle at home.

For these purposes the following ingredients are needed:

70 grams of carrots,
50 grams of apples,
50 grams of white cabbage,
100 grams of squid meat,
150 grams of fish.

All this is passed through a meat grinder. Two eggs, prepared gelatin (dilute 30 grams in 150 ml of hot water until completely dissolved), 150 ml of milk are added to the mixture.

After stirring, let it cool and add twenty drops of the vitamin balance-correcting drug Tetravit.

This food can be stored in the refrigerator for one week. Before use, it must be cut into pieces. This volume of food is enough for 10 feedings for a turtle with a shell fifteen centimeters long.

Supplements

For the correct formation of the shell of a young turtle, it needs to consume calcium. To compensate for this, bone meal is used, which is added to young reptiles daily, a pinch at a time. For adults, one teaspoon per week is enough.

Another option for a natural source of calcium is egg shells, which are pre-crushed.

Note! It is best to use raw rather than boiled egg shells.

How much to feed red-eared turtles

Feeding red-eared turtles up to a year old there must be daily with an excess in the meat diet. After a year, the frequency of feedings is reduced. Giving food is allowed after one to two days. Adults can feed once every three days.

If the turtle prefers plant foods, then you should not take long gaps between feedings.

It is important to monitor your pet, prevent overeating, and offer your pet a variety of foods.

Conclusion

What to feed a red-eared turtle at home is determined individually by each individual for their pet. After all, no two turtles are the same, which means that the preferences of different individuals will differ. Watch your pet to understand what kind of food he likes, and then you will no longer have problems with feeding.

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Red-eared turtles are one of the most common species of these reptiles. They are freshwater. The appearance of these turtles is very interesting: on the head, there is an intricate pattern of the shell. Owners who have such a pet always have a question about

Red-eared turtles

These are medium-sized turtles, their shell grows up to 30 cm. Moreover, males are smaller than females. This one got its name because of the elongated red spots that are located near the eyes. In some subspecies these spots are not red, but orange or yellow. As additional decorations, these turtles have green wavy stripes and spots on the head, legs, and body. In nature, such a turtle is quite widespread. It can be found in Central and South America, Europe, Africa, Australia. By the way, it was brought to Australia, but has spread so much that it is now recognized as a pest that displaces local species of fauna.

What can you feed red-eared turtles?

Of course, the well-being of any animal largely depends on feeding. Nutrition is also a very important factor in caring for a turtle. These turtles are predators, and therefore, their diet should be dominated by animal food, the content of which should be at least 80 - 90%. The rest is plant food. Since in nature these reptiles most often feed on small fish, it is recommended to include low-fat fish cut into small pieces in their diet at home. When asked what red-eared turtles are most often fed at home, it turns out that preference is given to ready-made food. However, experts advise diversifying the animals' diet. It must include pieces of lean boiled meat (for example, chicken); they should be given boiled liver about once a week. Also, turtles will not refuse frogs, bugs, worms, and small snails. This food can be purchased in specialized stores. For plant foods, lettuce, cabbage, and grass are recommended. But not all turtles eat all this. at home to satisfy their need for plant foods? You should try giving it to your pets different types vegetables and herbs to determine what they like best. Some people prefer apples. But you need to keep in mind that sour varieties can harm turtles, especially if the animal eats them in large quantities. And you should definitely diversify your diet. Firstly, so that the turtles satisfy their body’s needs for different substances, and secondly, they simply get bored with monotonous food.

Some features

When feeding turtles, experts advise taking into account some features. You should not feed them by hand, because they will get used to it very quickly and stop feeding in any other way. And besides, at home, you don’t always want to pick it up. You should absolutely not offer such pets yoghurt, eggs, bread, cheese, or cereal. Their digestive system is simply not adapted to digest such food. Another important question: How often to feed red-eared turtles? It is usually recommended to feed young turtles once a day, and older ones (2 - 3 years old) less often, 3 - 4 times a week. However, if turtles persistently demand food, you should not starve them. It is best to offer food at the same time every day, preferably in the morning.

If you keep some red-eared sliders in feeding simple rules and treat your pets carefully, they will delight their owners with a healthy appearance and a long life.

What kind of fish is best to feed a small red-eared turtle?

Dry food for small red-eared turtles

What not to feed baby red-eared turtles

Feeding mode

Diet of an adult red-eared turtle

What to feed baby red-eared turtles

What red-eared turtles are not allowed to eat

Feeding frequency of the red-eared slider

Animal products

Plant products

Factory and homemade feeds

Types of red-eared turtles, sizes and features

Common questions asked by red-eared turtle owners

How many years do red-eared turtles live?

How to distinguish a female from a male red-eared slider?

Do red-eared turtles hibernate?

Aquaterrarium for the red-eared turtle

Aquaterrarium equipment

Coastal part of the aquaterrarium

Lighting

Ultraviolet lamp for red-eared turtles

Thermal lighting

Water in the aquaterrarium

Water temperature in an aquarium for red-eared turtles

What do red-eared turtles eat?

What fish should you feed your red-eared slider?

Cleaning

Epilogue

What kind of fish is best to feed a small red-eared turtle?

Dry food for small red-eared turtles

What not to feed baby red-eared turtles

Diet and frequency of feeding

Detailed menu

Seafood, dry food

Newbie mistakes

Nutritional features of turtles

Herbivorous turtles

Predatory turtles

Omnivorous turtles

What, how and when to feed a turtle

Feeding land turtles

Feeding aquatic turtles

DIY turtle food

What not to feed a turtle

Video about turtle diet

Brief introduction

Habitat in nature

Appearance, size, life expectancy

Sense organs

How to determine gender?

Buying a turtle

Handling the turtle

Handling babies

Fights and aggression

How to care for a red-eared slider?

Red-eared turtles: care and maintenance

Priming

Heating the shore for a turtle

Ultraviolet lamp for turtles

Aquarium water

Feeding

What to feed a red-eared slider?

Feeding with plant foods

Red-eared turtles and live food (guppies, snails)

How much and how often should you feed red-eared turtles?

Hibernation

Reproduction of red-eared turtles

Health and illness

The main diseases of red-eared turtles and their symptoms

Animal feed

Plant based food

Ready food

DIY turtle food

Supplements

How much to feed red-eared turtles

Conclusion

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