The task came up at the dacha - to build an extension to the house and on the built extension to make an open playground, waterproof it, lay tiles, weld a fence. Before this, we lived for several seasons without such a vestibule, so in the summer all the sand went straight into the house, and in the winter all the cold too.

This is the view of this part of the house before the renovation. The front door directly into the house, without a hallway.

The shabatniks found through advertisements charged some unrealistic price for just one wooden frame from our material and were sent to hell. We decided to do everything ourselves, not to order from outside and not to hire third-party workers.

In two days, with a lot of effort, we installed the main frame. I'm wearing a yellow helmet, my brother is helping, my father is in the wings. The strip foundation was poured last season. It's the May holidays.
The beams were impregnated with protective solutions. They were placed on the foundation through waterproofing in the form of roofing felt.

Square beam 15*15 cm.
For the floor, timber 10*20 cm.

They were fixed with long nails into the dowels + a lock at the ends.

"It seems like something went wrong"

The process of installing the pillars is underway. They used tow on the reinforcement pin and lining.

The first pillars leaned towards the house like wood grouse:

Horizontal beams rested on the board and were fixed with a corner:

The frame is almost ready. After that, we tweaked the heights and geometry a little more.

Temporary boards have been laid so that life in the house does not stop.
The temporary diagonal screed made of boards under the ceiling was subsequently replaced with a metal corner

There are no photographs of some project steps because... the purpose of writing a report was not set and this post is after the fact from those photographs that were.

What's missing from the photos:
Between horizontal bars at the level of the 2nd floor, transverse beams were laid, insulation was stuffed between them, 2 layers of polyethylene and 2 layers of plaster were laid on top.
The base for pouring the screed was ready.

It's time to weld the pillars of the future balustrade.

It’s worth moving away from the topic a little more. A year and a half ago I was thinking that it would be nice to learn welding. I started looking for courses, but didn’t find anything worthwhile. Either the schedule is somehow inconvenient, or the money is unlimited. But the most interesting thing was in some “inexpensive” courses - this was mandatory practice at a factory (a month or two). As soon as I imagined it, I immediately lost the desire. (I probably could have neglected practice, I didn’t find out.) In general, the courses didn’t work out well. But it doesn’t matter, we’ll study on our own. I watched a number of training videos and read a little. I tried it "on rags", the neighbors suggested some basics. In general, I have become more experienced.

For reliability, it was decided to make pillars embedded in the screed and attached to the frame beams with wood grouse. Experts will say that we have gone too far here and they will be right. Perhaps everything could have been simplified. But what's done is done. 200% reliability that the pillars will not go anywhere, even if you lie on them. We do everything for ourselves, not for our uncle.

Corner posts made of square profile 4 cm with "L" shaped legs, intermediate ones - from a 3 cm profile with "T" shaped legs.
In some places, metal plates were placed under the paws to straighten the vertical.

Don't look for particularly beautiful seams. Firstly, this was my first experience in welding thin metal, so I scribbled some snot here and there, burned it in some places, and welded it in a ridiculous way. And secondly, all this should be hidden under the screed, so it won’t be visible and I hardly bothered to process the seams.

Note to the owner: After welding, hardened metal is more difficult to drill and generally process, so it is useful to let it go. I put it in the coals of the grill for a couple of hours. After that it was a pleasure to work with him again.

They installed it, aligned it vertically, and screwed it tightly. We laid a mesh for the screed. The mesh was raised from the plaster surface using scraps of reinforcement. The planned thickness of the internship is about 5 cm.

And they started pouring the screed. They mixed it on the ground so that the dirt would not spread on the spot.
It was necessary to maintain a slope of 1 cm by 1 meter in both directions (towards the far right corner in the photo). This is for unimpeded drainage of precipitation from the surface.

The day turned out to be hot and even constantly wetted burlap rags did not prevent the cement from drying out. It started cracking almost immediately. A more liquid dilution did not help much. The polyethylene sank heavily in the screed, so polyethylene was abandoned.

But the hope was that the cracks were still on the surface of the screed itself, and plus we would have two layers of waterproofing cement on top.

In the meantime, the cement was gaining strength, the father did the cladding with imitation stone, insulation and interior decoration. I am not a big expert and amateur in woodworking.

In the middle of summer, distracted from the second floor of the extension, we almost completely missed the last dry days for laying tiles. Well, in general, they actually missed it, so at the end of August they had to erect a temporary shelter.

At the stage of laying the tiles, there were some problems. The low tides installed along the perimeter somehow unexpectedly raised the level at the edges of the screed and because of this, the expected 0.5 cm layer of tile adhesive grew into 1.5 and even 2 cm in places where depressions had formed on the surface of the screed. It was necessary to maintain a given slope level of 1 cm per 1 meter. In short, I went for glue twice. Overspending by 3-4 times.

A picture of the first day of laying tiles with timestamps (of the three I lazily tinkered with). When clicked, a larger image will open.

The connections to the walls were decorated with a plinth.

The seams are filled with waterproofing cement, which has proven itself as a grout in our basement.

Everything was ready to begin last stage— welding of the balustrade.

The drawing is simple, but safe from the point of view of children (closer to real welding, some improvements were made in terms of technology and finance).

The distances between the balusters were calculated so that they would be more or less visually equal in all spans, because the spacing between the pillars was slightly different.

Because There was a lot of welding to be done, and even when I was welding the racks I picked up bunnies, I decided that eyes were more expensive than 1800 rubles. and bought myself a chameleon mask. Incomparable thing. Would have been lost without her. For welding thin metal, when you weld in spots - that’s it!

Templates were prepared to simplify welding of the balustrade segments.
Tube 2*2 cm.

In total, 9 such assemblies had to be welded. By the middle of the process I got my hands on it, everything took a few minutes:
I made a layout from templates and tubes. I checked the diagonals - a guarantee of right angles, fixed them with bricks, and cooked them.

If you don’t mind 2 minutes, then this stop-motion video is about the stage of welding the segments.

9 segments welded. Painted in 2 layers of paint and primer.

Already at the stage of welding on the balcony, we had to slightly modernize the original drawing, because... the upper pirilina did not rest where it should have, so this cunning bend with intermediate fastening to the beam.

The balustrade segments were attached through template beams and then welded.

And then the seams were cleaned for a long time and tediously, including with a file in hard-to-reach places.
Stop-motion video about the 2nd and 3rd days of work on the balustrade (5 minutes)

All is ready. Only the cardboards have not been removed yet.

Photos of some details.

General view from the side.

For next season metal railings Let's glue two boards together - there will be such high wide railings. It will be possible to use it as a bar counter during dinner parties.

The importance of a buffer zone between the cold outside and the warmth in the house is difficult to overestimate. It can be especially appreciated by the owners in the frosty season, when every opening of the front door entails a significant flow of cold air into the heated room. The vestibule can prevent such cooling - it will not only delay cold air, but will also fulfill functional role, taking on some of the hallway duties..

Is a vestibule needed in a private house?

What is called a vestibule in a private house?

A vestibule is a kind of “corridor” located between two doors: the entrance street doors and the interior doors leading into the house. This corridor can have either very modest dimensions, sufficient for the movement of one person, or it can represent spacious room with hangers, benches and shoe racks.

Tambour in the hallway of a private house photo

Is a vestibule needed in a private house? The vestibule is often called a buffer between the street and the house. And this is true, because the flow of cold air rushing in from the street does not penetrate the house, but lingers in the vestibule. And when you open the door leading to the living quarters, the cold penetrates only in small quantities. Thus, we can highlight the following advantages of the entrance vestibule in a private house.

1. Saving costs on .
2. The comfort of household members who are constantly warm and cozy, and not shrouded in clouds of icy air.
3. You can leave street shoes and clothes in the vestibule without bringing dirt into the room.
4. It also provides protection against freezing.

What about the double door? Doesn't it really protect the living space from the penetration of cold? In an apartment, yes, but in a private house, no. And all because in this case there is no protective zone, and the cold flow has nowhere to accumulate, so it immediately enters the house without stopping. Both doors are at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. To enter the house, you open the outer door and immediately open the inner door, and the cold goes straight into the living space in transit.

What to do if the house does not have a vestibule? This often happens when a house is bought in finished form, rather than being built from scratch. After spending one winter in a house without a buffer space, the owners decide to insulate the entrance to the house, and with the onset of warm weather they begin to construction works. Most often they complete construction small room 1-3 sq. m, its roof is covered roofing material, installing the front door. These few square meters will become reliable protection given temperature regime in the house.

What types of vestibules are there in a private house?

A vestibule is not only a quiet room of modest size without windows. Other structures can be used as a buffer, the main task which - to hold back the cold, heat and dust from the street.

Whatever configuration and whatever size you choose, the vestibule is necessary in your home. Even if it is a room of very modest size, even unheated, it must exist.

Design of a vestibule in a private house photo

How to arrange a vestibule: interior decoration

The design of the vestibule, as well as its interior decoration, depends on functional purpose this room and the materials from which the house is built. If this is a walk-through unheated corridor, then there will be few finishing options, but if there is a full-fledged hallway, then it is allowed to use more wide range finishing materials.

As for the arrangement of the vestibule in a private house, it is completed suitable furniture– floor cabinets or shelves, cabinets or hangers, soft ottomans or sofa. If the room is no different large sizes, then you shouldn’t clutter it with an extra piece of furniture. It’s better not to put an ottoman or shoe rack than to clutter up an already small space.

Even in the most inhospitable house, the front door opens constantly, whether you come yourself or guests, ask the dog to come home, go to work in the garden or do something around the house. During the entire time the door is open, the air carries with it heat or cold from the street, and the feet of those who enter dust and dirt during the cold and damp season.

To solve such problems, a vestibule is built in the house.

Despite the seemingly obvious benefits of the vestibule, many perceive it small space at the entrance only as a small storage room and a place for shoes. The following opinion is also widespread - this mini-room is not needed, it eats up the residential area without much benefit, and also requires additional expenses for arrangement. And many designers ignore the vestibule when planning the construction of cottages. This decision is justified as follows: it is enough to make a well-insulated (or better yet, double) door, and these short-term “ventilations” will not play a big role.

However, a vestibule is necessary and useful in every home. The only exception is buildings in the southern regions of the country, where the climate is milder.

It should be borne in mind that building codes do not directly oblige the installation of a vestibule in residential buildings.

But, according to the regulations, living rooms (bedrooms and children's rooms) must be separated from the street by at least three doors. This requirement is fully met by the vestibule, which is an intermediate, buffer space between the first and second (internal) entrance doors.

Due to their sequential opening, cold air remains between them and does not enter the living spaces. It also preserves home warmth, heating devices They don’t “warm up” the street. And in the summer, the coolness in the house is preserved, which is especially important when using air conditioning. Thus, both winter and summer provide more efficient use climate control technology and savings on heating or cooling costs.

In addition, the vestibule blocks the formation of drafts and prevents the penetration of smoke and various odors into the home. Finally, here you can leave your shoes, and with them the dirt.

Features of the vestibule layout

There are no separate standards for the design of vestibules. However, there are rules that also regulate the arrangement of this space.

It is advisable to locate the entrance to the house, and along with it the vestibule, taking into account the prevailing wind directions in the area. A door on the leeward side will make the house a little warmer, because gusts of wind will not blow into it.

Wherein the vestibule can be built into the main volume building or attached to it in the form of a protruding part (risalit), where a staircase can also be placed. The front door must open outward: this improves its resistance to burglary and increases free space in the vestibule, provides safer evacuation in case of fire.

It is not necessary to organize natural lighting; artificial lighting is sufficient. But in interior door glazing can be provided: this will increase both illumination and improve the visual perception of space. The floor covering must be hard and non-slippery (including when wet). When installing dirt collection grates, they should be installed flush with the top floor covering, without a protruding threshold. This guarantees safer travel. Finally, the vestibule area is often lowered two or three steps below the level of the first floor, which further helps to retain the cold in this room.

Reliable insulation

The fullness of the vestibule’s role as a constructive temperature barrier for other rooms depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities. External wall the vestibule, being part of the external structures of the house, is an integral element of the thermal contour of the building, and its “pie” should help ensure and maintain the “thermos effect”.

The wall is made of the same material as in the rest of the house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of laminated timber or laminated timber is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend installing a layer of thermal insulation from foam plastic, perlite or mineral wool slabs (basalt or glass wool - read more about seamless insulation). For the latter, film vapor barrier with inside and waterproofing from the outside. From the outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened onto the heat-insulating layer and then covered with finishing paint or plaster.

The attached vestibule can also be made using technology winter garden: frame made of aluminum or plastic profile with double glazing. The main thing is to ensure reliable docking profile design with the main wall. To do this, make an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and protect it with façade sealant or waterproofing tape. The same seam must be made at the junction of the cottage foundations and the entrance vestibule in order to avoid the appearance of cracks over time. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover an attached vestibule, it is better to perform an independent truss structure, and close the joint from above with a cornice strip.

Also in the vestibule you need special attention Make sure there are no cracks: around the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also fill them with polyurethane foam, and small cracks can be filled with tow, sealed with insulating tape, or simply “closed” with silicone sealant.

Particular attention should be paid to doors.

The outer one should be made of solid wood or metal frame with internal insulation. Perfect as a second one balcony door with a double-sided handle, glazing and complete sealing of the opening due to two sealing contours. You can also install a simple one, even made of wood or plastic, you just need to line it around the perimeter with a rubber seal.

Which vestibule to build – heated or not?

The question of the necessity and possibility of heating the vestibule raises a lot of controversy. Some experts strongly recommend drawing a contour here common system heating to avoid the appearance of frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule can become so cold in cold weather that it ceases to act as a temperature buffer.

However, according to building regulations, heating appliances should not be placed in rooms that have external doors to avoid freezing of the coolant. And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional systems heating: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy costs. The very essence of the vestibule, why it is needed in the first place, is to be a buffer, a mixing zone of cold and warm air.

It is permissible to install two heating devices here. Firstly, it is a cable heated floor. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change from street shoes to house slippers, and will speed up the melting of snow, which often accumulates on the soles. Air will also benefit thermal curtain, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow. It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (i.5~5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will be used only for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.

Ergonomics of the territory

Tambours are quite often used as storage rooms and stored here old shoes, household equipment, small Construction Materials. Thus, they clutter up the space and increase the area of ​​surfaces that collect dust. In a small vestibule, it is advisable to arrange only shelves for shoes, as well as hooks and shelves for keys and other accessories. You can also hang a mirror on the wall. In the more spacious vestibule, after a walk, a baby stroller and sled are left.

If the depth allows, then you can equip a built-in closet (for example, a wardrobe) and store skis, balls and other sports equipment inside it. A mezzanine is made for the same purpose. And at the same time, due to it, the ceiling level is reduced so that there is no feeling of a well in the vestibule. Boxes from purchased equipment are stored in these same furniture elements, which should not be thrown away during the warranty period, etc. But the most frequently worn outerwear and hats should be stored in the wardrobe or hallway.

It is convenient when a door to the adjacent garage is built into the side wall of a spacious vestibule. Finally, internal and external doors are positioned both along the same axis, perpendicular to the facade, and at an angle of 90° to each other. The second option reduces airflow, but is less convenient as it makes it difficult to carry furniture.

Leave dirt in the extension

The entire history of a person’s movements during the day remains on the sole of the shoe: in the form of dust, small pebbles, snow, ice, etc. In a word, dirt. All of it remains with the shoes in the vestibule, but gradually accumulates and, sooner or later, ends up in the house. To prevent this, rag or rubberized mats are most often used, but they quickly become dirty, and the former also get wet. As a result, such coatings not only do not retain dirt, but also “return” it to the soles.

So it is better to use special dirt protection systems. For example, grilles made of aluminum or hard rubber, as well as combined products (they have metal strips alternating with rubber inserts). The cells in the grid should be square or diamond-shaped and of such a size that clods of dirt are collected and are not a trap for women's heels. The entire area of ​​the vestibule should not be covered with grating. But to ensure complete collection of dirt, its width should be equal to the doorway (or better, 10-20 cm wider than it). The thickness of the grate is assumed to be 1o-16 mm - this allows you to collect up to 7-10 kg of dirt and clean it less often. At the same time, dirt can be collected using a grate on the outside area near the door, then a canopy should be strengthened over the entrance to protect it from precipitation.

Read also:

Features of the final finishing of the vestibule

A vestibule is a room with constant changes in temperature and humidity. Materials that can be used for walls and ceilings should be wet cleaning. For example, you can use facade paint, plaster or plastic panels. But gypsum and other types of materials intended for indoor use are not suitable - coatings made from them may crack.

For visual increase spaces are chosen light colors finishing. Finally, a wear-resistant material is laid on the floor. ceramic tiles, natural or fake diamond or linoleum. They not only resist abrasion, but are also easy to clean.

Location and layout of the vestibule (schematic drawing)

1. Traditional small vestibule with wardrobe
2. Tambour, which also serves as a hall with stairs
3. An unusual planning solution allows for efficient use of space
4. The entrance is recessed into the façade of the house, which provides even better protection from the cold. There is an exit from the vestibule to the garage
5. The entrance to the house is made on the same level as the facade. A door leads from the vestibule to the laundry room
6. Part of the vestibule having complex shape, reserved for a small dressing room

Additionally to the article:

1. Most often, the vestibule is built from the same material as the house.
2. A translucent structure, for example made of glass, can also serve as a vestibule.
3. In small old houses, for example in adobe, they often did summer kitchen- essentially the same vestibule, insulating the residential part of the house from the cold.
4. The construction of a vestibule in the main volume of the house, with reasonable planning, can help in zoning the space
5. If the vestibule is small, then the door should be installed so that it opens to the street.
6. It is better to heat the vestibule autonomously - using a “warm floor” system or a fan heater installed above the external door.
7. The vestibule, lowered 2-3 steps below the level of living quarters, better retains the cold.
8. Fencing off a small hallway by turning it into a vestibule is easy and inexpensive, and the resulting buffer will allow you to save on heating costs.
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Behind last decade private home ownership has gained mass popularity and has become almost a trend modern world. People are increasingly striving to get out of stuffy walls apartment buildings, purchasing real estate outside the city limits. Depending on the financial opportunities, cottages are being built from scratch, houses in the village are being rebuilt or cottages are being refurbished so that you can comfortably spend the winter in nature, away from the bustle of the city.

However, not all city dwellers, having decided to move to the bosom of nature, know the intricacies of village construction that we inherited from our ancestors. One of these subtleties is the presence of a vestibule, or simply a vestibule, in a private house. Those same ordinary canopies, sung in the lyrics and rustic prose of Russian classics.

What is it and what is it for?

vestibule in modern construction called the buffer zone between the street and front door into a living space. As a rule, the vestibule is small but sufficient in size to regulate air flows coming from the street. This is especially important during the cold season.

When you open the entrance door of the vestibule, the flow of cold air does not immediately penetrate into the house.

This is why our ancestors built canopies - cold air is dispersed in the transit space, allowing the main living space to be kept warm, and warm air from the house does not escape outside when the front door is opened, since the vestibule door is already closed by that time.

According to modern building standards, doors living rooms must be separated from the street by at least three doors, this will preserve optimal temperature bedrooms and will reduce heating costs.

But not all builders and the owners themselves agree to heed these valuable tips: many believe that the vestibule takes away unnecessary square meters from the living space of the house and it is better to make a double insulated door. However, a double door retains heat better only in closed, and when opened, it lets cold air immediately into the house, since the doors are located so close that they open simultaneously.

In addition, the canopy also served as a utility unheated room where gardening tools and canned supplies for the winter could be stored, and also had an entrance to other utility rooms adjacent to the house. Currently, the entrance to the garage or boiler room is often made from the vestibule.

Another significant advantage of the vestibule is that with its presence, a significant proportion of street dirt and water is not carried directly into the house. You can leave your outerwear in the vestibule, shake off snow and rain moisture, and change your shoes.

Types of vestibule in a private house

According to the principle of purpose, the vestibule can be divided into several types:

• vestibule. Unheated room, serving as a buffer zone between the living space and outbuildings. It serves as a thermal cushion for heating the house, and also eliminates the need to go outside to get into the garage or boiler room. It is desirable to have at least one small window in the vestibule;

• vestibule-hallway. A warm room that is an extension of the house. Here, as a rule, there are wardrobes for outerwear, cabinets for shoes, mirrors and shelves for them. Such a vestibule is a continuation, and in fact a full-fledged corridor of the house, so it is insulated, heated and illuminated.

• vestibule-veranda. Most often this is a room attached to the house, which has a large number of glazed windows.

This is a bright room in summer season used as a veranda and a place to relax, and in winter it serves as a thermal cushion and prevents the porch from developing ice if the staircase is built into the veranda itself.

Dimensions

According to building regulations dimensions vestibules in a private house should have a minimum room depth of 1.2-1.5 m so that the front door of the house can open freely without disturbing at least one person in the buffer zone. This is done to preserve warm air, which, when opening the door, will not immediately mix with the street air. By the time it opens street door from the vestibule, the door to the house is already closed, and accordingly the heat is retained.

The doors from the house to the vestibule and from the vestibule to the street must open outward.

Device and location

Since the vestibule serves primarily for significant heating savings, you should consider maximum efficiency its location and device.

In multi-storey urban buildings, the entrances themselves serve as vestibules; in some of the houses, separate vestibules for several apartments are designed, which become additional utility room. In the entrances themselves, double doors with a vestibule are often installed on the ground floor at the entrance; this is also done to preserve heat in the entrance during the cold season.

Depending on the type of construction in a private house, the vestibule can be built-in, that is, located within the contour of the foundation of the entire house, or be a separate extension. In the first case, you can simply highlight the vestibule by installing a partition, and in the second, it is built as an independent building, according to all the rules and nuances of construction, starting with laying the foundation.

The vestibule can be a frame attached structure made of aluminum profile, sheathed with material or completely glazed from ceiling to floor with PVC profile. In this case, the vestibule will be an airy veranda.

Entrance room projects

The entrance, located on the north side, is best protected from the wind by a built-in vestibule. It can also serve as a convenient transition to the garage and protect the front door of the house from rain and gusts of wind.

On the south and south-west side it is not recommended to build a glazed vestibule-veranda, since the sun is in summer time will turn the room into a steam room, and the opportunity to relax on the veranda will be reduced to zero, since the sun will shine through the southwestern windows of the veranda until late in the evening.

In the attached vestibule there is often a porch structure, and, accordingly, a staircase leading into the house. This will prevent icing of the dangerous area, and will also allow you to take out keys, shake off clothes, close and open the doors of the house, while being protected by the canopy and walls from snow, wind and rain.

As a rule, the vestibule is built from the same material as the house. However, this is not at all necessary: ​​attached to brick house the vestibule may well be made of wood materials on a stone foundation.

It is not necessary to make a vestibule door at the entrance to the house. If it is possible to make a spacious entryway, then the entrance to it can be on the side of the house. This will further preserve the thermal air cushion between the house and the street. Plan one-story house with a separate vestibule can be designed in such a way that a spacious glazed veranda goes around the entire house or part of it.

Vestibule finishing

The material for covering the floor, ceiling and walls of the vestibule is selected depending on the purpose and type of extension. If this is a vestibule-hallway built into the thermal contour of the house, then the decoration will fully correspond to the interior. In this case, it is necessary to insulate floors and walls, install heating, install double-glazed windows or do without window openings at all in order to retain heat as much as possible.

A cold attached vestibule that serves as a canopy can be lined with polycarbonate - it will protect from wind and rain and create an air cushion.

Arrangement of the interior of the vestibule

Interior arrangement the vestibule depends on its secondary purpose. If you want to make the extension as functional as possible, it will not be difficult. If dimensions allow, then even in a cold, uninsulated room you can arrange furniture for gardening tools, heaters and thermal curtain systems, as well as shelves for items that are used only in the warm season.

Insulation

Despite the fact that the main function of a cold extension is to create a protective zone in front of the front door, which prevents the door from freezing at low temperatures, it can also perform more diverse tasks. Thus, even incomplete insulation of the extension can create an optimal microclimate for a gradual transition to frosty air. For example, if you are dressing a child or waiting for the household to gather, one of you will have to stand fully dressed.

In this case, the cool veranda will prevent those already dressed from overheating, while at the same time eliminating the need to wait in the frosty air.

The attached room does not provide sources of main heating, since this is an unnecessary and unprofitable consumption of resources. The materials used to cover the walls and floor can serve as insulation. IN frame buildings There are niches for insulation inside the casing, and materials with heat-saving surfaces are suitable for brick extensions.

If possible, you can insulate specific area floor with a heating cable laid in one of the corners. This place will serve as a shoe dryer in the autumn-winter period, and at the same time maintain a certain temperature throughout the room.

To learn how to insulate walls from the inside, see the following video.

Glazing options

IN ideal Openings for windows are included in the design of the vestibule. This helps in saving energy – in daytime no need to use artificial lighting. However, in the spacious insulated vestibule with large window openings You will have to take care of high-quality glazing of the openings, otherwise warm air will not linger in the room. In the case of a vestibule-hallway with windows built into the thermal circuit of the house, it is necessary to install double-glazed windows, as in all living rooms.

If the vestibule-veranda does not require additional heating, then you can glaze the window openings with ordinary windows. This will solve the lighting problem and protect from rain and wind.

Doors

If the extension room does not serve as a storage facility for valuables, then the door can be very ordinary, with a simple lock. Its main function is protection from bad weather and precipitation, as well as the aesthetic function of decorating the front entrance of the house. The entrance door to the house itself should not only be reliable protection from intruders, but also high-quality insulated, not allowing anyone to leave warm air. Ideally, the space between two doors should be one and a half to two steps of an adult, so that one of the doors has time to be closed when the other opens. Thus, both doors of the vestibule, with correct distance from each other will save on heat energy costs.

Roof

The installation of a roof is intended only for vestibule projects that are external extensions to the main facility. For the roof of an extension, a certain configuration is required for the slope of precipitation, as well as fastenings inside the room, that is, a sufficiently strong base and frame. Do not forget about drainage so that raindrops do not fall in a stream onto the space in front of the door.

Construction is an extremely expensive process, especially by today's standards. Hence, it is quite natural that any space should bear a certain load, that is, not be ownerless. This is a reasonable approach, but it is very disappointing that because of it, a small premises, regarding which certain standards were even created at one time, were undeservedly damaged.

Modern builders consider a vestibule in a private house to be completely useless. They motivate this by the fact that a small room without heating only takes heat from the house, therefore, energy consumption increases. This is partly true, but they forget that thanks to this room, the cold from the street does not enter the house. Simply put, the front door is reliably protected from piercing winds and nasty precipitation. It is always dry and relatively warm, so the heat from the house does not escape outside, but, on the contrary, remains inside.

The new role of the vestibule in a private house

It is likely that the whole problem with the unpopularity of the vestibule lies in its size. What if we made it a little bigger? This will expand it functionality. For example, you can arrange a dressing room in it, where all outerwear and shoes will be located. If your house is connected to a garage, then such a room will act as a buffer zone that will not allow cold and exhaust from the garage to enter the living space.

options for placing a vestibule in a private house
example of building a vestibule with your own hands

The main task of a vestibule in a private house is to preserve heat. Despite this, many consider it optional, citing the fact that it is better to install double door. Indeed, two doors retain heat much better than one. But due to this, the time it takes you to get into the house will increase, which means that the cold stream will still be able to enter with you. Therefore, having a small protected space in front of the front door is a necessity.

Design features of a vestibule in a private house

Having finally decided on the role and functions of the vestibule in a private house, and realizing its necessity, you can begin construction. There are vestibules two types: built into the structure of the house and attached to it. Let's look at each type in more detail.

For the construction of an attached vestibule The first thing you need to do is make a foundation. It makes sense to coordinate the design of the foundation with the designer, since it depends on a number of factors: the composition of the soil, the weight of the structure, the presence of a porch, etc. Most often chosen strip foundation. However, it all depends on the specific situation.

vestibule in the form of a veranda
external vestibule in a private house

There is no need to provide heating in this room, i.e. heating is optional. It is enough to insulate the door and walls well. This will ensure reliable sealing. However, if you want the vestibule to serve as a hallway, you can install an additional radiator or heat gun. But first, let's return to the construction aspects.

It is better to build the walls from the same material as the house. Additionally, they can be insulated using foam sheets or mats mineral wool. Regardless of the option chosen, insulation will play an important role. In winter it will not let the heat out of the house, and in summer it will keep it cool.

Now you need to tackle the floor. Firstly, the vestibule floor is lowered below the main floor of the building by 1-2 steps. This will keep the heat better. It is better to make the floor concrete to protect against rodents. You can lay a board on top of the concrete - this will make the room warmer, or you can lay tiles, which will help simplify cleaning. You should choose tiles with a rough surface to increase contact with shoes and protect against slipping. Some homeowners install a water-heated floor in the vestibule, but in our opinion, this is not convenient. Excessive heat in the vestibule will contribute to the formation of condensation on doors and locks; in winter, this can lead to freezing and problems with opening and closing doors. Heating the vestibule also implies the presence of ventilation in the room.

interior decoration
house with external vestibule

As for lighting, placing a window in the vestibule in a private house is not at all necessary. Artificial lighting in the form of a lamp will also be sufficient, especially considering the fact that it will only work for a few hours a day. For convenience, many owners provide a small window in the vestibule or doors with glass inserts. This is done for the purpose natural light premises during the daytime. This decision is entirely at your discretion. Doors with glass inserts will be less airtight and not as reliable. It is worth considering that external doors should be installed so that they open outwards.

The size of the vestibule is also not an unimportant thing. Since the time spent in this room is not significant, he does not want to devote a lot of space from the total area of ​​the house. However, it is necessary to consider comfort for both you and all members of your family. The dimensions of this room should also allow for the possible movement of furniture from the house to the street and back. A depth of 1.4-1.5 m, in our opinion, will be sufficient. The width must take into account the dimensions door leaf internal and outer door(it is advisable to install the doors opposite each other).

The built-in vestibule is easier to organize. The same recommendations apply here, with the exception of the construction itself. Additional insulation You will not need walls in the vestibule area. Many people make access to the garage from the vestibule, it’s convenient. We recommend placing special mats for cleaning shoes at the entrance. Rugs should have large cells and hard pile.

Walls from the inside: whim or necessity?

It is recommended to choose the finishing of a room with a constant temperature difference from moisture-resistant materials. You can see the vestibule layout options on our page.

As you can see, building a vestibule is quite simple. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to do this, but you will experience all its benefits. Not only will you reduce heating costs, but you will also be able to ensure a comfortable environment in your home.