When renovating an apartment, there may be a need to somehow hide various communications that spoil appearance. Builders who built houses during the Soviet period did not really care about the interior of the room. Sewer pipes, water risers and electrical wiring elements can hopelessly spoil the impression even after the most expensive repairs. Optimal solution This problem is to make a special box that will hide all these elements. It can be made of plywood, plastic, wood or chipboard, but boxes are most often made of plasterboard. It is very convenient and universal material. How to make a box from plasterboard? There are no particular difficulties here.

In addition to ease of installation, drywall has another very important advantage over other options: a box made from gypsum plasterboard is suitable for fastening any finishing materials. That is, the design can be made in the same style as the other surfaces, as a result of which it will not stand out from the general background.

In addition to masking functions, the box can be used to place hidden lighting fixtures, decoration multi-level ceilings, various ideas for interior design.

Required materials and tools

In order to make a plasterboard box for pipes or lighting fixtures, you do not need any special tools. This will be the standard set when working with plasterboard:

• Measuring tools: tape measure, plumb line, square and level.
• A screwdriver or drill that has this function.
• Hammer.
• Metal scissors.

The surplus remaining after the repair may well be suitable as a material, unless this affects the quality of the constructed box. Before assembling the plasterboard box, you will have to purchase the missing materials. You will need:

• Guide and rack profile. They are marked with the symbols UD and CD, respectively. Exact amount and the profile footage will help determine the drawing made at the box design stage.
• Drywall. Which one to choose: ordinary or moisture resistant? The latter must be used in damp areas such as a bathroom or toilet. In addition, condensation may form on pipes filled with liquid. Moisture-resistant plasterboard used during construction for the box will guarantee that the structure will last a long time and will not become covered with fungus or mold. And for a ceiling box in an ordinary room, erected to accommodate hidden backlight, regular plasterboard is quite suitable.

• Fastening elements: dowel-nails, small metal screws (popularly called “seeds”, “bugs” or “fleas”) for fastening profiles, screws for fastening drywall.

The frame of the structure can also be assembled from wooden beams. But in this case, all elements must be soaked in an antiseptic solution, paying Special attention joints and sawed off ends. This greatly complicates the work, so it is preferable to use a metal profile. Wood screws are used to attach the gypsum board to the timber frame.

Marking the mounting locations for guide profiles

A plasterboard box can have three or two sides. Structures of the second type are placed in the corner, which not only facilitates installation, but also significantly saves the space “eaten up” by the box.

The marking of vertically oriented structures usually begins from the floor, and then is transferred to the walls. Horizontal boxes - start with the walls, then mark the floor and ceiling.

The dimensions of the box being constructed should be selected in such a way as to ensure a gap of several centimeters between the drywall and the pipes.

Note! If materials with fixed dimensions, such as tiles, will be used during finishing, then it is better to adjust the width of the box to them. This will help avoid unnecessary operations of cutting and adjusting elements to fit. right size.

Installation of the box frame

Sequence of work:

• Using a tape measure and a square, a contour is drawn on the floor for installing the guides.
• To transfer it to the ceiling, use a plumb line.
• The corresponding points on the floor and ceiling are connected by drawing lines on the walls. For convenience, you can stretch a thread between them.
• The guide profiles are attached using dowel nails.
• How to make a corner part of a frame that forms a protruding rib? There are two options. You can assemble this element from two guides, placing them at right angles. The second option is more economical: instead of the second profile, elements 100–120 mm long are used, screwed to base surface at the locations of horizontal jumpers.
• Jumpers are necessary to give rigidity to the structure; not so many of them are required per box: two or three on each side every 120 cm.
• The corner element made in this way is inserted into the guides on the floor and ceiling and fixed with “bugs”.
• The same “bugs” are used to fasten the horizontal jumpers from the rack profile. The correct installation is controlled by a level or plumb line.

Covering the frame with plasterboard

After installing the frame, you can begin attaching the drywall. There is nothing complicated about this, but it is important to take into account some nuances:

• It is preferable that the box consists of entire strips of drywall, rather than individual fragments.
• All joints of sheathing elements must be located on the surface of the profile.

The cutting of drywall for the box is carried out as follows: one side is marked exactly according to the dimensions of the frame, the second must be larger in order to cover the end of the first. You can initially cut out the strips with a margin, and cut off the excess after fastening. But this leads to more material consumption.

• Strips of plasterboard less than 50 mm wide are cut with a carpenter's hacksaw. Wider fragments can be separated using a painting knife: first, a cut is made on one side of the drywall screwed to the box, the strip is broken along this cut by pressing, and then a layer of cardboard is cut through on the other side.
• After fixing the sheathing, the surface is puttied.

When installing boxes, you must remember that it is necessary to maintain free access to the closed communications for their repair and preventive maintenance. Therefore, the box being constructed must have doors that allow easy access to meters, shut-off valves, and inspection hatches. Otherwise, if necessary, you will have to disassemble the box. The size of the cut windows should ensure ease of maintenance of communications. As a rule, such hatches are located on front side boxes, and you can disguise them using external finishing.

Hiding communications, installation unique lighting cannot do without installing a plasterboard box. Assembly of the structure is carried out quickly and allows you to achieve maximum aesthetically pleasing rooms. To make boxes, you need to purchase profiles, plasterboard sheets, screws, and dowels. Designing structures is easy and simple.

You can make a neat box from plasterboard with your own hands to hide pipes or to remove lighting. The location of the structure can be either horizontal or vertical. They can be mounted at the junction of walls, along the wall or on the ceiling.

To begin work, you need to draw up a drawing taking into account the size of the area where the work will be performed. Next, study information on how to make a box from plasterboard and prepare the following tools:

1. pencil, level, tape measure;
2. rack and guide profile;
3. drywall (regular or moisture-resistant);
4. screws, dowels and self-tapping screws.

Next, you need to transfer the markings, prepare the sheets (cut them) and you can directly install plasterboard boxes in an apartment or house. If the structure is small, the work will take about 3-4 hours. It may take 1-2 days to install the ceiling box.

Features of assembling a plasterboard box in the bathroom

The correct installation of the box in the bathroom is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Marks are placed on the wall above the pipes (about 5-10 cm higher), on the floor (with a distance of at least 5 cm from the pipes).

2. The lines for fixing the profiles are outlined, the lines are transferred to the wall (a right angle is marked) from which the pipes come out.

3. A guide profile is mounted along the markings on the walls using dowels.

4. Parallel supports are made of a rack profile and fixed to the guide with self-tapping screws. Additionally, jumpers are mounted: they will add strength to the structure. They are installed at a distance of about 30 cm between the rack and guide profiles.

5. Moisture resistant plasterboard sheets a rectangular hole is cut for the hatch.

6. Sheets are screwed to the frame.

7. The joints are grouted (it is important to remember that joints on perpendicular surfaces should be at different distances from the wall). The box in the plasterboard bathroom is being finished: painting, laying tiles.

8. The hatch frame and the hatch itself are installed.

At this stage, a convenient and practical box for plasterboard pipes will be completely ready. The presence of a hatch on it will provide easy access to communications for their repair.

Installation of a ceiling box in the kitchen

The plasterboard structure on the kitchen ceiling allows you to properly illuminate the work area. But its manufacture is more complex. It is recommended that before starting work, you begin to study the supporting photos and video lessons. This will help eliminate errors when assembling elements and connecting wires. Will help with work and step-by-step instruction:

Markings are placed on the ceiling and walls.

The guide profile is mounted according to the markings.

Two hangers are mounted at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other: they will support the transverse profile that fits into the guide elements.

Small pieces of the profile are mounted perpendicularly between the side profiles on the walls and the ceiling; they must be fixed to the upper end profile.

The extreme lower profile is installed, and the transverse jumpers are mounted.

Wires are brought out for illumination.

The sheets are cut, holes for lamps are prepared on them.

Drywall is attached to the frame, wires are brought out, surfaces are finished, fixtures are installed and connected.

An original kitchen box made of plasterboard will perfectly complement the room. And due to its small size, the area of ​​the room will not be reduced. Wherein work zone will be well lit at any time of the day.

Video of installing a plasterboard box with your own hands

large plasterboard box, do-it-yourself installation. Plasterboard installation. a simple plasterboard box for the kitchen. Gypsum board install. plasterboard, pipe box + installation sheathing. Plasterboard installation.

When carrying out renovations, quite often you have to level the walls and ceiling, hide pipes in the bathroom and toilet, hide radiators in the kitchen, make a backlit ceiling, so installing a plasterboard box is perfect solution similar problems.

A plasterboard box can hide a sewer riser, level the surface for a suspended ceiling, eliminate the curvature of walls and much more.

All work on the manufacture of the structure can be done with your own hands, but you must know the manufacturing technology.

You can make 2 versions of the device from plasterboard: a corner one, which has two edges, and a ceiling or wall one with three edges.

Below are instructions on how to make a box from plasterboard.

Making a corner device

Making a corner box from plasterboard with your own hands is not difficult. Basically, the corner option is installed in the toilet and bathroom due to the small area of ​​the room.

Installation begins with markings. To do this, you need to make marks on the ceiling corresponding to the width of the device, and on the wall - its length.

If the structure is vertical, then the length and width are laid out on the walls. After making the marks, you need to draw lines using a building level.

Now you need to mark the volume of the structure, which is marked as follows: the extreme attachment points of the corner element are located, then perpendiculars are lowered from the lines marking the dimensions of the structure to the end parts of the structure.

If the box is horizontal, then the markings are done on the walls, if it is vertical – on the floor and ceiling.

The next step is to install a metal profile, which is attached according to the finished markings.

For fastening, holes are made with a hammer drill and dowels are driven in. It is recommended to fasten the profile on one side of the intended line.

When fastening, the shelves of the two profiles should be located at right angles to each other.
Then the corner part is trimmed and installed.

Installation of this element is carried out as follows: the corner element is inserted into the profiles at the place where they intersect. The corner element is secured with self-tapping screws. Then comes the finishing.

Now you need to make stiffening ribs from the profile, attach one edge to the profile on the wall, and the other to the corner element. The stiffening ribs are secured with ties.

The profile frame is ready, now you need to cover it with plasterboard. It is better to cut the plasterboard sheet so that the structure is made of solid strips.

Therefore, you first need to cut off the material for the sides.

The width of the stripes corresponds to the width of the edge. Then measure the size of the remaining edge and cut the strip so that it extends to the edges of the side edges.

Drywall sheets are also secured with metal screws at a distance of 15–20 cm.

When the installation of the plasterboard box is completed, its finishing begins. It is quite possible to make it yourself.

The coating can be painted, tiled, etc.

Ceiling or wall option

Assemble a plasterboard box in a toilet, under a bathtub or in another room with your own hands for a ceiling or wall type possible even for a novice builder.

To create ceiling structures, first markings are made for a plasterboard box on the ceiling.

At the location of the plasterboard structure, two parallel lines are drawn that go to the walls (when installing a ceiling option) or to the floor and ceiling (when installing a wall option).

The distance between the lines corresponds to the width of the structure, and the lines perpendicular to them, which need to be drawn on the walls, correspond to the height of the structure and indicate the attachment points of the corner elements.

Installation of the guide profile and preparation of corner elements is carried out similarly to the corner version.

Now 2 corner elements are made from the profile, which must be positioned in such a way that it is possible to install stiffeners.

Now the frame for the plasterboard box on the ceiling is being strengthened.

Reinforcement of the wall and ceiling frame is carried out in the same way as during installation corner option, with the only difference that the stiffeners are installed on three sides, at a distance of 60 cm.

The installation of the frame is completed - it is sheathed with plasterboard and its finishing begins.

It is possible to make a plasterboard box on the ceiling with lighting. Installation robots can be made by hand.

A backlit device is made as follows: first you need to make markings for lighting and secure the electrical wires.

They must be mounted in such a way that they do not interfere with the installation of the device.

Then you need to prepare the transverse guides and insert them into the frame. The guide profile is aligned to the wall at a right angle and secured with self-tapping screws. Then the entire structure is secured.

After installing a ceiling device with lighting, the ceiling looks like a multi-level one. The backlit device can be made over the entire ceiling area or as a device in the form of geometric shapes.

When making the box, all wires must be hidden. After this, for lighting it is necessary to make holes, having previously made markings on the drywall.

The material, previously cut into strips, is screwed to the profile according to the markings, then the lighting is carefully inserted into the holes.

After completing the installation of the illuminated ceiling box, the drywall can be puttied, painted or decorated with decorative trim.

Installation Features

The construction of a plasterboard box has several nuances that are recommended to be taken into account when doing the work yourself, so that this design does not cause inconvenience and lasts for many years.

For example, when making a box to hide a sewer pipe, you must take into account that the couplings with bends on the pipe, the so-called revisions, cannot be closed without leaving access to them.

For such couplings, a special opening must be left during installation to provide access from the outside. This window is closed with special plastic doors.

Access is also needed to the joints between the internal sewer system and the central riser, since repairs may be required after some time.

When installing a plasterboard box under the bathtub to cover the water supply or radiator, there must be an opening at the locations of meters, valves, vents and other elements.

To make such an opening, you need to make 4 mm holes larger size door that will cover the hole. This can be done both before and after installing the plasterboard battery box.

If an opening is left for access to the inspection of the sewer riser in the bathroom or toilet, then it must be located on the front side of the structure.

If the hatch is intended for access to valves or other elements of the water supply system, then it can be located on the side.

In the toilet or kitchen, in places where pipelines pass through the structure, the hole must be made larger than the diameter of the pipe.

There should be a gap left that can be filled with polyethylene foam.

Thus, installing the box will allow you to hide communications in the bathroom and toilet, level walls and corners, hide radiators in the kitchen, level the ceiling, and also make the ceiling illuminated.

All this can be done quickly, inexpensively and for many years.

After reading the article, you learned how to make a drywall box yourself.

This article is about what and how to assemble a frame from a profile for plasterboard. In it I will describe the procedure of work, the design of the frames and the tools used in their assembly. Let's start, however, with why a galvanized profile is the optimal material for sheathing.

Lathing for leveling the wall with plasterboard.

Why profile

When assembling the frame, we have to choose between an inexpensive bar with a section of 40x40 - 50x50 mm and a profile. I strongly recommend choosing this profile for the following reasons:

• He always has perfect geometry. The block usually has to be sorted out, with a significant part of the material going to waste due to bends and “propellers”;
• Geometry and dimensions of galvanized steel parts remain constant with any fluctuations in humidity. Wood swells in damp weather (this is, in particular, associated with rubbing wooden door jambs on rainy days) and warps when drying. Deformation of the frame often leads to the appearance of cracks in the drywall at the seams;

Deformation of the sheathing on the ceiling led to the appearance of a crack.

Reinforcement of seams solves the problem only with minor deformations. Significant bending of the block will inevitably lead to damage to the final finish.

• Galvanization in residential premises serves indefinitely. The timber cannot boast of this: mold, rot and insects often lead to the loss of strength of the structure or even its destruction after 10-15 years.
  Of course, methods for protecting wood from these factors exist (for example, sequential impregnation with an antiseptic and drying oil), but they deprive wood of its main advantage - low cost - and significantly increase the time spent on assembling the frame or sheathing.

Woodworms can lead wooden frame into disrepair in just a few years.

Materials

Profiles

Now - about what types of galvanized profiles can be found on sale.

To assemble battens and frames, only four types are usually used:

The length of guide profiles is 3 meters, rack and ceiling profiles are 3 or 4 meters.

In addition, if desired, construction stores can be found:

• Corner perforated profile for strengthening the corners of walls and partitions;

From left to right: corner, guide, rack, ceiling and ceiling guide profiles.

• Flexible profile for arches and vaults.

Accessories

Direct hangers are used to attach the ceiling profile to capital structures. The ears of the U-shaped suspension are equipped with perforations and are attached to the side walls of the CD.

Direct suspension. Product price - 4 rubles, design load - 40 kilograms, packaging - 100 pieces per bag.

To connect the frame elements to each other, metal screws 9 mm long are used.

Phosphated self-tapping screw for joining sheet metal products.

When installing guide profile hangers to solid walls and ceilings, dowel-screws measuring 6x60 or 8x80 mm are used. The size of the fastener depends, first of all, on the material of the capital structures: longer dowel-screws are useful for thick layers of loose plaster.

Dowel screw for attaching guides and hangers to main walls.

Tools

What tools will be required to assemble a frame from a drywall profile?

• Metal shears are needed for cutting galvanized steel;

Sometimes it is cut with a grinder and a metal wheel, but this is not entirely correct. Heating during abrasive cutting causes the zinc coating to burn out, and the edge of the profile begins to rust in a humid environment.

• Level and plumb. They are needed to orient the frame elements in strictly horizontal and vertical positions;
• Square, tape measure, long ruler and pencil for marking;
• A hammer drill with a drill for drilling holes for dowel screws;
• Screwdriver. It is absolutely unrealistic to screw in several hundred metal screws with your own hands using a screwdriver.

Screwdriver - main tool for working with drywall and galvanized profiles.

Installation

What are the most common scenarios a new builder encounters when working with drywall?

• WITH wall cladding(by leveling their surface along the frame);
• With installation of internal partitions(solid, with door or window openings, with shelves and niches);
• With assembly suspended ceilings(horizontal, inclined and multi-level);

On the picture - slanted ceiling from plasterboard in my attic.

• WITH boxes for risers, combs (horizontal intra-apartment sewerage), air ducts, etc.

Let's figure out how to make a frame in each of these cases.

Wall cladding

1. Mark the position of the frame border. In general, the closer the guide profile is to the main wall, the better: so the costs usable area rooms will be minimal. An exception is cases when the space between the main wall and the cladding is used for laying communications large diameter(sewage, air ducts) or to create niches.
   The markings are first made on the floor, then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line, after which lines on the walls are drawn between marks on horizontal surfaces along a long ruler or a profile pressed against the wall;

The markings on the floor are transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line.

1. We fasten the UD ceiling guide profile along the entire perimeter of the wall with dowel screws in increments of 50-60 cm;

Captain Obvious suggests: if there is a doorway in the wall, a gap is left in the lower part of the guide along the entire width of the opening.

1. The position of the ceiling profiles is marked on the main wall. They are usually mounted vertically. The step between the longitudinal axes of adjacent CDs must be exactly equal to 60 centimeters: then the seams between adjacent gypsum board sheets (let me remind you, standard width sheet of drywall equal to 120 centimeters) will fall in the middle of the profile;

A pair of additional CDs are installed at the edges of the doorway, connected at the top by a jumper made of the same profile. They will allow you to sheathe slopes.

1. Along each line, in increments of 80 cm, straight hangers are attached with dowel screws;

Installation direct suspension on a brick wall.

1. Then the ceiling profiles are cut to length and inserted into the guides along the marking lines;
2. The ears of the suspensions are attracted to the profile aligned along the edge of the ruler or according to the rule with self-tapping screws 9 mm long. The free parts of the ears are bent towards the wall.
3. Each CD is attached to the UD at the top and bottom with a pair of metal screws. This completes the assembly of the frame; you can proceed to covering it with plasterboard.

Finished sheathing.

If the height of the wall exceeds the length of the gypsum board, at the junction of the whole sheet with the additional one, it is worth providing a horizontal jumper from the same CD. When the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common profile, the likelihood of cracks appearing along the seam is minimal. However, in the upper part of the wall, where the cladding does not experience deforming loads, with high-quality reinforcement of the seams, you can do without jumpers.

One of the ways to attach a horizontal jumper.

Partition

When assembling a partition, the arrangement of a frame made of a metal profile for plasterboard is noticeably different from that described above: UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles are used.

Frame of a blind partition.

Here are step-by-step instructions for installing the frame:

1. Along the perimeter of the partition, guides are attached to the capital structures. For fastening, dowel screws with a hose of the same 50 - 60 centimeters are used. If a doorway is provided in the partition, in this case a gap is left in the lower guide along its entire width;
2. In increments of exactly 60 centimeters, cut pieces are inserted into the lower and upper guides. required length racks from CW profile. It is better to take height measurements for each rack separately: differences in the distance between floor slabs can be measured in centimeters;

When marking the position of the racks, make marks not on the profile, but on the surfaces of the floor and ceiling at a slight distance from the guide. These marks will help you find the studs when sheathing the frame with drywall.

1. Each rack is attached to the guides with metal screws.

Attaching the stand to the bottom rail.

Doors, windows

Installation in the door partition deserves a separate description.

Metal-plastic door with mirror double-glazed windows in a plasterboard partition.

It is performed at the frame assembly stage in the following order:

1. The door leaf is hung on hinges and wedged into the box with cardboard folded in several layers, scraps of hardboard, plywood or wood chips. This is necessary so that the door does not rub the jambs after installation;
2. One of the racks adjacent to the doorway is installed in a strictly vertical position and attached to the guides;
3. A strip of mounting foam or sealant is applied to it, after which the stand is pulled to the door frame using self-tapping screws 16 - 25 mm long in increments of no more than 50 cm;
4. On the opposite side, a second stand is attached in a similar way;
5. Both racks are connected by a horizontal jumper from the same CW profile. Method of attachment to a horizontal crossbar door frame- same.

Trimming a door frame and an opening without a door with a profile.

A skylight (for example, in a bathroom wall) is mounted in the same way. There are only two differences:

• For obvious reasons, a gap in the bottom guide is not needed;
• There are two horizontal jumpers between the posts - at the top and bottom of the window opening.

Light window in plasterboard wall bathroom.

Arches

The arch frame is bent from a special flexible profile, as well as from a guide or rack cut in increments of 10-15 cm. The arch becomes rigid during the process of covering the gypsum board; additional reinforcing bridges between the elements of its frame are possible, but not required.

The simplest frame made of a flexible profile.

Here, to form the bend, a CW rack cut with a minimum step is used.

Gain

In rooms with significant loads on the walls (in an apartment this is primarily the hallway and kitchen), they need a reinforced frame. Rigidity with respect to horizontal loads is achieved, first of all, by increasing the width of the rack and guide profile from 50 to 75 or 100 millimeters. If this is not desirable due to small area premises, you can make the frame as strong as possible in other ways:

• Reducing the step between the posts from 60 to 40 centimeters;
• By connecting rack profiles in pairs;
• Putting it in the racks wooden mortgages- bars with a section of 50x50 mm.

Methods for strengthening the partition frame.

In addition: if the expected loads on the walls are significant, they are sheathed with plasterboard in two layers. Sheets of the first and second layers are attached with the obligatory overlap of horizontal and vertical seams. The first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long at the rate of 20 - 30 pieces per sheet, the second - with self-tapping screws 45 mm long at the rate of 50 - 70 pieces per sheet.

The arrangement of sheets when covering a partition with plasterboard in two layers.

Noise insulation

A hollow gypsum board partition has an unpleasant feature: it acts as a resonator, amplifying sound vibrations. Soundproofing a wall requires an integrated approach:

• Placed under the guide profile damper tape, which will eliminate the transmission of low-frequency vibrations to capital structures. Instead, you can use foamed polyethylene cut into strips of appropriate width;
• The frame is filling mineral wool. It is better to use glued slabs measuring 1000x600 mm: they will fit between the posts without being cut in width, and will not cake, leaving voids in the wall filling;

Sound insulation of gypsum plasterboard walls with mineral wool.

• Finally, most effective solution- acoustically decouple the surfaces of the partition from each other, creating two independent frames for them. In this case, two guide profiles are mounted along the perimeter of the partition at a minimum distance from each other; the racks are installed in them in a checkerboard pattern so that each rack is in contact with only one side of the skin.

Captain Obviousness suggests: in this case, the thickness of the partition will increase to at least 100 millimeters.

Shelves, niches

To place niches or shelves in the partition, we will also have to build two independent frames. The basis of the shelves are the horizontal jumpers between the racks from the CW profile. When the partition thickness is more than 15-20 centimeters, the shelves are reinforced with additional jumpers between the two frames.

Assembling the partition frame with niches. CW rack and UW rail are used.

Suspended ceiling

How to properly make a frame from a plasterboard profile when installing a suspended ceiling?

The general principles for assembling the frame of a single-level ceiling are the same as when facing a wall with plasterboard: ceiling and ceiling guide profiles are used; CDs are attached to the ceiling or beams with direct hangers.

Single-level lathing plasterboard ceiling in the bathroom.

There are, however, differences:

• It is better to reduce the step between the hangers to 60 cm, which will eliminate the possibility of the ceiling sagging;
• It is advisable to align ceiling profiles not along a ruler or edge of another profile, but along several guide threads stretched across them. First, the CDs are pressed to the ceiling by the curved ears of the suspensions, then they are released one by one, aligned in a horizontal plane along the thread and finally attached to the suspension.

If the ceiling is multi-level, the difference can be created in several ways:

• By combining straight hangers and extended hangers with spokes;

Adjustable hangers with spokes.

• Using rack and guide profiles. CW is used as vertical posts, and UW connects them and provides attachment to the floor;

Lathing under two-level ceiling from gypsum board.

• Finally, with a small room height, the higher part of the ceiling is made of plaster or leveled with plasterboard, fixed to the ceiling surface with gypsum glue and (temporarily) with dowel screws.

A combination of plaster and plasterboard ceilings.

The last case is worth examining separately. The gypsum board is attached in the following order:

1. The surface of the rough ceiling is cleaned of low-adhesive coatings (flaking plaster, whitewash, paint, etc.);

Hint: plaster and whitewash can be removed with a hard steel spatula without raising dust if you first soak it with water. To do this, the ceiling is wetted with a sprayer two or three times at intervals of 10-15 minutes.

1. Then the surface is dusted with a brush or vacuum cleaner;
2. The cleaned ceiling is primed with penetrating acrylic primer (primer). The primer will prevent the surface from crumbling and will stick the remaining dust to the base. It is advisable to add an antiseptic to it, since gypsum board will limit the ventilation of the ceiling;
3. The sheet of plasterboard is pressed against the ceiling by assistants, after which holes for dowel screws are drilled directly through it in the ceiling. The step between the attachment points is no more than half a meter;
4. Pieces of gypsum glue are applied to the sheet in increments of no more than 15 cm. Along the edge of the sheet with a slight indentation from it, it is worth forming an intermittent bead of glue. Gaps will allow air to escape from the space between the gypsum board and the rough ceiling;

Scheme for applying gypsum glue.

1. The gypsum board is pressed against the ceiling and fixed with dowel screws;
2. Then the sheet is leveled horizontally. You can raise or lower a section of the sheet by screwing in or unscrewing the dowel screws;
3. When the glue sets (this takes up to 6 hours), the fasteners are removed, and the holes from it are filled with plaster or acrylic putty.

Box

The easiest way to assemble a box from a plasterboard profile is from a rack and a guide profile. The guide is used for attaching the frame to the floor, ceiling and main walls, the rack guide is used for making vertical frame elements and jumpers between them. Jumpers, by the way, are not necessary: ​​the frame will acquire maximum rigidity after covering it with gypsum plasterboard wall.

Different types of profiles can be combined. In the picture vertical racks are made of CW and UW, and the jumpers are made of ceiling CD.

Important point: in most cases hiding communications in a permanent box is a very bad idea. Thus, risers and water supply connections, as well as sewerage, can be made hidden only if the following conditions are met:

1. On sewer riser there are no revisions or tees for cleaning;

Inspection for clearing blockages on a cast iron sewer riser.

1. The sewer riser is assembled from plastic pipes, each of which is fixed at the bell with a clamp, preventing its subsidence;
2. Water supply risers are made of polypropylene, copper or corrugated stainless pipe with maintenance-free connections (soldered or, in the case of stainless steel, compression with silicone seals).

Hide steel pipes It is strictly forbidden to put it in a non-removable box for two reasons:

• They have a limited service life. Leaking pipes in the box will force you to dismantle it to repair or replace a section of the riser;
• Lack of ventilation in the box will lead to condensation on the pipes cold water V summer time. Dampness will shorten the already short service life of the steel riser.

In addition: risers refer to common property residents of the house, and access to them may be required at any time. For example, if there is a leak from neighbors below or above, or if the sewer riser is clogged.

A cabinet with high doors is an excellent alternative to a box.

Conclusion

I hope that this material will help the dear reader when renovating his own house or apartment. As usual, Additional information can be learned by watching the video in this article. I would appreciate your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

How to make a semi-arch from plasterboard with your own hands?

During the overhaul In the apartment, almost everyone is faced with one small but very unpleasant situation. Some of the pipes and communications in the bathroom and kitchen cannot be moved or redone. As a result, a situation is possible when, against the backdrop of beautiful finishing materials, an ancient pipe or sewer riser will “show off”, which will spoil any idea of ​​the transformation of the apartment. To avoid this, there is one extremely simple option that is accessible to everyone. You should hide nondescript pipes in a neat box. How to make a box from plasterboard will be discussed further.

You can choose other materials to implement the box, such as: plastic, chipboard, plywood, etc. However, the most suitable material is still drywall. It is the easiest to process. The resulting surface of the box can be easily finished using ceramic tiles, wallpaper or paint. Simply put, only drywall will not limit you in any way in the choice of finishing methods and, moreover, will create a durable and reliable box, which will last a very long time. It’s easy and simple to build a plasterboard box with your own hands, you just need to consider a few important nuances in the construction of such an interior element.

What is needed to build a box?

You will need the following tool:

1. roulette;
2. plumb line, bubble level;
3. hammer drill;
4. construction corner;
5. construction knife;
6. hammer.

The list of materials naturally includes a sheet of drywall. One standard sheet of 2500*1200 mm with a thickness of 9 or 12.5 mm is sufficient. It's best to choose moisture resistant drywall, taking into account the fact that water pipes or a sewer riser will be sheathed, which tend to be covered at least a little with perspiration, so that the humidity will be significant. This is all the more reasoned if a plasterboard box is installed in the bathroom, where the humidity is already high.

The frame for the box can be made either from wooden blocks 40*40 or 50*50 mm, or from a galvanized metal profile specially designed for working with drywall. If wood will be used, it must be done in advance, which will protect the wood from rotting and destruction. in this regard, it is more practical, since it does not require mandatory training, and it is somewhat easier to use.

Scheme of constructing a box for pipes based on a metal profile.

From a wide variety of profiles, you will need a UD guide profile and a CD profile to form the frame itself.

To secure the frame elements, it is best to use dowels and hammer-in European screws for fastening to the wall and flea screws with a drill tip for connecting the profiles to each other. The wood will require hardened self-tapping screws, twice the length of the timber used. In any case, hardened self-tapping screws with a piercing tip of size 35-45 mm are used to secure sheets of drywall.

Work order

Stage 1: marking

First you need to make markings on the floor. The line should indicate the contour along which the guide profile or support bars will be installed. It should be taken into account that plasterboard will be sewn on top of the frame, so the resulting dimensions of the box will differ from the dimensions of the markings by the thickness of the sheet used. Using a construction angle, the perpendicularity of the lines in relation to the walls and each other is checked.

The thickness and width of the box is chosen such that the plasterboard sheathing does not adjoin the pipes in any place, and there is a gap of at least 3-5 cm on all sides. The width should also be chosen taking into account subsequent finishing. If subsequently the box will also be lined with ceramic tiles, then you should select the width of the box equal to the whole number of the widths of the tile itself in order to avoid the need for trimming.

The markings on the floor are ready. A plumb line is used to transfer the markings to the ceiling. If necessary, markings on the wall are made using a stretched thread between the corresponding points on the floor and ceiling.

Stage 2: securing frame elements

The profiles or bars located near the wall stop first. After this, one or two racks are fixed, spaced from the walls and forming the front, protruding edge of the box. If the width of the box exceeds 25 cm or the height of the box is more than 1.5 m, jumpers should be installed between the support posts. Jumpers are installed at a distance of no more than 1 m from each other.

During installation, if used wooden beam, the cut areas should be further processed. It is best to use a special construction mastic for wood. In addition to protecting the wood, this will provide greater stability and sound insulation so that the box does not creak during thermal deformations.

Stage 3: installation of drywall sheets

It is advisable to cut the sheet of material in such a way that the box consists of single strips rather than pieces. First of all, the strips for the side edges of the box are cut off. Their width should be equal to the width of the frame itself and not protrude beyond the border of the support posts. Only after this can you accurately measure the size of the remaining edge and cut the corresponding strip of drywall so that it fits the edges of the side strips. The sheets are secured with 35-45 mm self-tapping screws every 15-25 mm to the main frame posts. You don’t have to reinforce the sheets in addition to the jumpers between the posts. At such a small width of the structure this will not play any role.

After the sheets are secured, you can begin to putty and form the corners of both the box itself and in the places where it adjoins the walls. To do this, use a special metal or plastic perforated corner. It is fixed on thin layer starting putty. After this, you can apply a layer of finishing putty or prepare the surface for laying ceramic tiles. Actually, at this point we can consider the work on constructing the plasterboard box completed.

Only there is whole line moments and mandatory conditions regarding the process of covering the frame of the box with plasterboard. This is due to the fact that a plasterboard box is a non-demountable structure, and tightly sewing up elements such as a sewer riser or water supply pipes is fraught.

Video: example of box formation

Features of box construction

In fact, the box is a simple structure made of a frame and sheets of drywall attached to it. However, do not forget about the features of those pipes and communications that are to be sheathed. When making a pipe box, it is necessary to take into account not only the aesthetics of the result, but also practical aspects.

Sewer riser

In many apartments there are so-called audits on the sewer riser. These are special couplings on a pipe with an outlet or hole that is closed with a lid. An inspection is needed to clear the blockages. Under no circumstances should such areas be tightly sewn up with a box. You should carefully mark the area and leave a window for unhindered access to the audit from the outside. You can close the window using special plastic doors, which are sold in hardware stores.

In addition to the inspection, access to the points of connection and convergence of the internal sewage system into the central riser should be provided. It may be necessary to replace some elements over time or remove blockages in the internal pipes.

Water pipes

Doors must be formed in the technological holes in the box in those places where the pipes have such elements as: water flow meters, valves and compensators, check valves and reducers.

To form these openings, holes should be formed in the plasterboard sheets that are 1-3 mm larger than the dimensions of the door frame, which will subsequently be inserted there. This can be done in advance in a strip of drywall before attaching it to the frame. You can also just mark the installation position of the door in advance and, after fixing the drywall to the frame, begin cutting out the hole.

If the door is installed to access the sewer inspection in the toilet or bathroom, the hole for it is located on the front edge of the box, which faces the entrance. This is a mandatory requirement and you shouldn’t even try to move the door somewhere more secluded.

If the door is only for access to valves and other equipment on water pipes, then it is quite acceptable to place it on the side of the box. This way it will be less noticeable. It is only important that the ability to quickly access technological units if necessary.

Recently, gypsum cardboard sheets (chipboard) have become widely used in interior design and decoration. This material is very popular, but making a box from chipboard is much more difficult than simple cladding walls Very often, craftsmen are faced with difficulties in installing a plasterboard box during the work process. We will try to tell you about them in this article.

Why is a chipboard box not cladding?

The difficulty of making a box from chipboard is primarily due to the weight and fragility of this material. Drywall sheets cannot stand alone structural elements, unlike laminate, wood or plastic. The box usually consists of volumetric modules, where each model is a rigid and elastic frame, which is covered with plasterboard, and the box is used as load-bearing element- it is forbidden.

The frame for drywall must be multi-level to withstand the load. The hanging corner of the box is most often visible, and this aggravates the requirements for its stability and durability. However, a crack in the sheathing can also spread from the joint of the slabs if it is not properly sealed, see below. In addition, if the box is horizontal wall or ceiling, its weight is applied to a shoulder several times greater than that of the wall sheathing. The number of points for attaching the frame to the base surface is also several times less than that of the skin, and load bearing capacity building materials not infinite. Finally, the frame itself is not a single-level sheathing, but a rather complex spatial structure, the optimal ratio of mechanical parameters of which is more difficult to ensure than that of a “flat” lattice “stuck” to a strong, stable support. If the reliability of the sheathing is approx. 80% depends on the supporting surface, then in the case of a box the relationship is the opposite: its frame must be just as strong on its own, without being attached to anything.

Why do you need a plasterboard box?

A plasterboard box serves as an independent element of the interior, and also, as a rule, performs certain convenient functions. First of all, they create a box to hide engineering Communication and improve common areas. The advantage of this material is that any finish fits very well on it. Of course, this is only relevant if the box itself is made correctly.

If you are making a box for a suspended ceiling, then it must be reinforced, since it will be under load. Design in this case is a secondary matter, and to properly create a box on the ceiling, it is best to contact a craftsman who already has experience working with drywall. But if you decide to do it yourself, then watch a simple video instruction on how to properly make a box on the ceiling.

And if you need decorative box, then you don’t need any special strength from it. But to master the creation of decorative boxes you need to master the basics, which can be seen in this video:

Let's return to the plasterboard boxes. utilitarian purpose. The second most popular type is a box covering a heating radiator. Its design is simple and easy to implement for beginners; the design is clearly tied to the interior (that is, it does not have an independent decorative meaning), and therefore is also not complicated and forgives quite significant flaws. The main thing in this case is to ensure air convection from the battery. We will return to battery boxes later, but for now, see a video review of their possible designs:

However, the most unpretentious view of the gypsum plasterboard box in terms of technical quality of work and design is shown in Fig. not shown precisely because of its simplicity. This is a simple rectangular ceiling box that encloses a niche with a curtain rod. It is with a plasterboard box for curtains that you need to start, if you have never dealt with gypsum boards before. This will give you the opportunity to get a feel for the material and at the same time, without significant difficulties, master the techniques of working on the ceiling, see video:

Profiles for gypsum boards

The frame for drywall can be made not only from aluminum, but also from durable wood that has already withstood shrinkage. But assembling a box from wood is much more expensive than from metal, so boxes, as a rule, are assembled exclusively from thin-walled metal profiles. A typical range of steel profiles under chipboard is shown in the figure below:

In addition to types and sizes, the frame can be divided into:

• Lightweight frame (wall thickness up to 0.25 mm). This type of frame is used in lightweight designer products and is not durable.
• Normal frame (wall thickness up to 0.4 mm). This type is most often used.
• Reinforced frame (wall thickness up to 0.6 mm). Used to create large boxes.

Most of the housing available to the bulk of the population was built during the Soviet era. Unfortunately, most often the quality of the building itself leaves much to be desired. It’s no wonder that when they were preparing the plan, they weren’t concerned with the particular accuracy and evenness of the surfaces. But today, when making renovations in their apartment, owners are faced with the problem of leveling walls, ceilings, and most importantly, the problem of how to hide utility lines. Various kinds of risers, heating pipes and heaters can be hidden in a box made of plasterboard on a frame. The installation technology itself is simple and allows you to do all stages of the work yourself. But how to make a box from plasterboard and what are the nuances of such a process?

What you will need for installation

Assembling a box from gypsum plasterboard is not a very expensive process, all materials are available, and some tools are available at home.

• Drywall. Today there are several types of this material: wall, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant. Sheets are for sale different thicknesses and size. Which one to choose for installing the box will depend on the conditions where the structure will be located. For the kitchen or bathroom, it is best to purchase moisture-resistant plasterboard; in residential premises, you can use ordinary wall plasterboard, and fire-resistant plasterboard is used when assembling wall elements near fireplaces and stoves.
• Metallic profile. This is the second most important part during assembly. The entire frame on which the sheets will be attached is assembled from the profile wall material. There are a lot of options, but to install a plasterboard box you will need CD and UD profiles.

The CD profile acts as a frame for fastening plasterboard sheets; it has curved edges and stiffening ribs. From it are created durable structures suspended ceilings and various kinds boxes

The UD profile is used as a guide rail for the frame posts. It is attached around the perimeter of the room. For strength, it is mounted to the surface of the floor or wall.

When choosing a metal frame, pay attention to the quality of the metal

When choosing profiles, you must pay attention to the quality of the metal and its galvanized coating.

• Suspensions. These are metal strips with perforations for attaching long frame guides. You can make them yourself, but store-bought ones are inexpensive and more convenient to use. They are used if you need to move the guides at a distance from the surface.
• Fasteners These are dowel-nails for attaching UD profiles and hangers to the surface of walls and ceilings. They look like a screw, but with a sharp tip without rifling. You also need so-called “fleas”, these are small self-tapping screws that serve to connect metal parts frame to each other. And of course, it’s worth purchasing fasteners for drywall sheets. Sold in the form of black self-tapping screws with a gimlet cut, starting from 25 millimeters in length.
• Tools: hammer drill (impact drill), screwdriver, building level, metal scissors, a stationery knife with a supply of blades (for cutting drywall), cord, tape measure.
• For final finishing You will need putty, sickle tape and spatulas.

This is the main list; in work, some tools can be replaced with improvised ones. For example, a screwdriver will replace a drill at low speeds (although not as convenient), or metal scissors will replace a saw. But the presence of specifically designed tools significantly speeds up the production of a plasterboard box.

How to assemble a plasterboard box: marking, installing guides, fastening sheets

Marking

Installation of a plasterboard box begins with marking its dimensions. All markings of the future box depend on the dimensions of what will be hidden in it. For example, the size of a plasterboard box in the kitchen is planned based on the parameters of the kitchen hood.

Vertical breakdown is done using a cord, a long rod and a level. We find the farthest point from the wall, in this place we install a strip to which we apply a level. We align it according to the position of the bubble. At the points where the slats touch the ceiling and floor, we attach nails or screws and tighten the cord. For convenience, it is better to use brightly colored cords.

After marking the vertical markings, we make horizontal markings on the floor and ceiling for attaching the guides.

If you have to assemble a ceiling plasterboard box, the cords are pulled parallel to the floor and ceiling, taking into account the level.

How to make a box from plasterboard. Step-by-step algorithm

Installation of guides

A box made from a profile for plasterboard is assembled after beating lines with cords or markings; guides from a UD profile, cut to size, are attached to them. Fastening is done using dowel nails or dowels with self-tapping screws. The pitch should be no more than 300 millimeters. It is important to ensure strong fastening. If the walls are made of soft material, such as aerated concrete, then standard plastic dowels will not work. You need to use special metal dowels (“crocodiles”).

If you don't have the necessary tools on hand, some of them can be replaced. For example, metal scissors - with a saw, and a screwdriver - with a drill at low speeds

You also need to assemble a so-called shelf - one or several. This is a design made of guides, which will ensure fastening of the CD profile to the convergence edges of the box faces.

To do this, another similar one is attached to one side of the UD profile. Fastening is ensured by self-tapping screws (press washers). To smoothly connect the edges of the shelves, first attach the ends to each other, and then the middle.

After assembly, the resulting structure is fixed in guides attached to the surfaces of the walls, ceiling or floor. In this case, if the shelf is very long, immediately insert a jumper from the CD profile.

Installation of jumpers

The jumpers are made to size from a CD profile. They are inserted into the guides at a frequency of about 400 millimeters. If this is a ceiling box, then you should immediately mark their location so that there are no problems with cutting openings for the lighting or ventilation system.

The jumpers are secured to the guides using fleas and a screwdriver.

After assembling the entire frame, you need to check its geometric accuracy so that the box does not spoil the drywall mounted on it with uneven ribs. To do this, apply a level to the guides; if there are any unevenness, the stand is pulled back and secured to the surface with a self-tapping screw.

The rigidity and strength of the entire structure will depend on the number of attachment points, but there is no need to be overzealous; a step of 300 - 400 millimeters will be enough.

Fastening plasterboard sheets

The sheet of drywall is cut to the required size using a utility knife along the markings on both sides. Important rule– gaps of 10 mm and 5 mm are made to the floor and ceiling, respectively. It is also better to display the factory edges of the sheets on the edges of the box, then they will turn out smoother, and it will be easier to secure the plaster corner in future finishing.

The sheets are attached to the jumpers and guides with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall. When assembling a ceiling box, the step between fasteners should be smaller - about 150 millimeters. For vertical design fastening frequency – 250 – 300 millimeters.

Also, you should not attach drywall at the joints of the guides and jumpers; it is better to step back a little so that the self-tapping screw does not pierce the double layer of metal.

If in the future you need access to the inside of the box, make viewing windows in advance

If you need access to the inside of the box, then you should consider viewing windows.

The design is ready, and we need to move on to next stage– finishing.

The assembly process itself does not require any special skills or tools. Mounting a plasterboard box with your own hands is not difficult and, if you know the technological nuances of the process, it will not take much time. If you don’t want to do it yourself, then it’s better to invite a qualified specialist.

A ceiling box made of plasterboard (GCR), or in other words, a step, is a very often erected structure during renovation and decoration of premises.

This design helps solve two main problems: firstly, from a design point of view, it gives the room some sophistication and individuality, and secondly, from a technical point of view, it allows you to lay electrical cables, install lighting and hide all kinds of communications.

Sometimes a plasterboard step is used in conjunction with a suspended ceiling, and if you use a glossy canvas, you can achieve the effect of expanding the space.

By using boxes from profiles and plasterboard, ceilings on several levels are created. Although now multi-level stretch ceilings are used quite often, the gypsum plasterboard structure is more durable and reliable, and even an amateur can build it, unlike a two-level stretch ceiling.

In this article we will look at an example of assembling a box from profiles and drywall in one of the rooms of a simple panel “Khrushchev” building.

Ceiling box layout

The content of the article:

1. Materials required for the construction of the box:

• Guide profile PN 28x27 mm;
• Ceiling profile PP 60x27 mm;
• GKL sheets 1200x2500x9.5 mm (has a thickness of 9.5 mm);
• Perforated corner 25x25 mm;
• Putties (universal and finishing);
• Interior paint (white);
• Self-tapping screw with press washer 4.2x13mm (they are also called sunflower seeds);
• Self-tapping screw 3.5x41 mm with large thread and dowel 6x40 mm (for attaching the profile to a concrete wall and ceiling);
• Self-tapping screw 3.5x19 mm with fine thread (for fastening plasterboard sheets).

Appearance of the profiles used in the box design

Fasteners used when performing work

2. Tool:

• Hammer with drill ⌀6 mm;
• Screwdriver;
• Metal scissors;
• Laser or simple building level;
• Tape measure and pencil;
• Metal square;
• Putty knife;
• Roller;
• Sandpaper.

3. Assembling the box structure from metal profiles

The principle of constructing the box is presented in the diagram below:

Assembly diagram of a ceiling box frame made of metal profiles for gypsum boards

Technology for assembling a box from profiles:

Having decided on the dimensions of the box, we mark and attach the guide profiles PN 28x27 mm to the wall and ceiling.

We connect two guide profiles to each other, as shown in the diagram. Horizontal ceiling profiles will be inserted into one of these profiles, and vertical ones into the other.

We cut vertical ceiling profiles in accordance with the height of the step and the margin for the height of the guide profile.

We install 60x27 mm ceiling profiles in 600 mm increments into the guide profile fixed to the ceiling. We secure them with 3.5x41 mm self-tapping screws.

We attach a structure assembled from two guides to the ceiling profiles. We level it and secure it with self-tapping screws.

We install horizontal ceiling profiles, also with a pitch of 600 mm, level the structure, check that our step has an angle of 90 degrees using a metal square, and secure all the profiles with 3.5x41 mm self-tapping screws.

At the junction of the guide profiles it is necessary to install a ceiling profile

After assembling the structure from the profiles, you need to make sure that it is rigid and strong, then you can start covering the box with plasterboard.

An additional horizontal profile was added to the structure along the entire perimeter, which was subsequently used to attach the baguette under.

4. Covering the structure with gypsum board sheets

Before covering the box structure with sheets of plasterboard, you must make sure that all the necessary communications have been laid and the wiring for connecting lighting fixtures has been completed.

As mentioned above, to cover the steps, ceiling plasterboard will be used, which has a thickness of 9.5 mm, in contrast to wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm.

Cutting sheets required sizes, for this we use a simple construction knife. Sheets of drywall are cut on one side, and then broken quite easily and evenly, after which the cardboard is cut to the end.

At the junction of gypsum board sheets, it is necessary to chamfer; special planes are used for this, but this procedure can also be performed with a knife.

For fastening gypsum board sheets to metal profile Self-tapping screws with a frequent thread pitch and dimensions of 3.5x19 mm or 3.5x25 mm are used.

First I sewed horizontal plane structure, and then vertical. The protruding ends of the gypsum board sheets also need to be leveled with a special plane.

5. Holes for lamps

We mark and, using a special crown and a screwdriver, cut out holes for the lamps.

Choose the location of the lamps so as not to hit the ceiling profile

6. Installation of perforated corner

Appearance of a metal perforated corner

The perforated corner performs two functions: 1 - gives the structure evenness, 2 - protects the most vulnerable part of the structure from damage.

Of course, if a perforated corner is used in ceiling structure, the main task will be to give our box evenness.

Installation of the corner is carried out using putty. The perforated corner is quite light and the putty holds it in place without any problems.

We need to dilute a little universal putty and apply it to the corner of our box, then take the perforated corner and press it tightly. Next, you should apply a little putty on top of the corner itself and, for reliability, secure it with several self-tapping screws.

After the mixture has dried, the screws must be unscrewed and excess putty removed with a spatula. Then you can sand the surface of the corner and putty it again, trying to make the surface of the structure even.

7. Putty the ceiling box

It is necessary to putty all the joints between the gypsum board sheets, as well as the locations of the screws.

To avoid the formation of cracks, the joints must be glued with a special reinforcing tape - serpyanka.

First, a universal putty is used, it is intended for filling unevenness up to 10 mm, and then finishing. I used Knauf Fugen as a universal putty, and Vitonit as a finishing putty.

Putties used during work

After applying each layer of putty, it is necessary to wait until completely dry, then use a spatula and sandpaper to remove any irregularities.

Typically, the required result is achieved using 1-2 layers of each type of putty.

8. Painting the ceiling box

The final stage in the construction of the ceiling box is painting it.

Before painting, it is necessary to remove dust from the surface using a primer.

White interior paint, a roller and a brush were used for the work.

To achieve an optimal result, it is necessary to paint the surface 2-3 times.

9. Final result: