Very often, when inhabiting spaces under the roof, we build into the slopes special double glazed windows, because of which, when it comes time to make a plasterboard ceiling, the attic requires special attention.

How to properly insulate an attic ceiling - choosing a material

Rooms under roof slopes tend to lose heat to a greater extent than walls. To understand this, it is enough to remember how much the roof heats up from direct sunlight, due to which the temperature inside increases significantly. In winter, gusts of icy wind may well freeze the attic if you do not take care of its high-quality sealing with solid thermal insulation, which still needs to be properly laid.

If in the premises of the first and second floors only one wall is in contact with the outside environment, a maximum of two per corner room, then the attic has a larger area of ​​contact with external conditions - the entire roof and gables. You should not only know how to properly insulate an attic ceiling, but also be able to choose thermal insulation, the properties of which may be incompatible with the climatic characteristics of the area. Close attention should be paid to the degree of thermal conductivity of the material, which affects the thickness of the layer being laid.

Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) is considered the cheapest and most accessible, but it has a number of disadvantages. In particular, this is absolute airtightness, due to which the room is deprived natural ventilation, as well as the content of toxic substances released with smoke during fire. Mineral or fiberglass wool can provide high quality thermal insulation, however, over time, these materials tend to sag, creating voids through which cold begins to penetrate into the rooms.

In addition, physical aging of the fiber takes place, which, gradually turning into dust, begins to penetrate the room in the form of fine dust, having a negative effect on the lungs. In this regard, basalt wool should be used extremely carefully. A good solution is rigid polyurethane foam, which provides reliable thermal insulation, provided there is no contact with sunlight. An alternative would be flax fiber in mats, but this is not a cheap material.

Plasterboard ceiling: do-it-yourself attic

Even the most best insulation unlikely to provide a sufficiently smooth base for decorative finishing, therefore, you should first cover the rafter system with material in order to level the surface. For this the best way drywall is suitable. With its help, you can install an attic ceiling in a short time, even without much experience. All that is required is basic knowledge of geometry and a good eye. Let's look at the option of covering the under-roof space if there are roofs embedded in the slopes.

Plasterboard ceiling - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking the ceiling plane along the windows

If you are planning to install drywall, then the space between the rafters is already filled with thermal insulation, on top of which cross beams internal sheathing. But even a small difference in thickness roofing pie along the length of the slope can lead to the fact that the slopes of the built-in skylights will have incorrect geometry. To get their uniform width, measure from the top and bottom points of each frame the same distance to inner surface stingray If the segments do not coincide, mark the plane of the ceiling so that it is parallel to the double-glazed windows.

Step 2: Formation of side vertical slopes

Along the perimeter of the frames we attach profiles, cut to the appropriate length, so that the edges of the sides of the guides coincide with the edges of the glass unit. We leave space for the installation of drywall; it should be attached almost flush with the inner edge of the frame, and so that it does not subsequently interfere with the opening of the sash. On the inner surface of the roof, on the sides of the window niche, we place long profiles with emphasis on the lower and upper edges of the slope. We install them so that they are in one vertical plane with guides fixed near the glass unit.

Step 3:

We screw all the profiles to the hangers pre-fixed on the sheathing, bending the petals of the latter down. For reliability, we attach the hangers to the crossbars using small corners, installing them in the places where the perforated strips are folded.

We align the guides along the pre-tensioned cords according to the markings made. We install hangers on each crossbar or every other one.

Step 4: Formation of the upper and lower slopes

To ensure maximum luminous flux upper slope We place it horizontally in relation to the roof slope, for which we attach a transverse guide oriented parallel to the floor along the marking lines under the ridge. We screw the supporting profiles to it with screws, the opposite ends of which are mounted in hangers installed on a transverse board fixed along the upper side of the frame. Parallel to the load-bearing ones, but in a different plane, located at an angle of 90 degrees, we attach short sections of the profile, which will become part of the side slopes. For the lower one, we simply fix the crossbar under the guide, fixed along the bottom side of the frame.

Step 5:

Cutting out fragments from the insulation the desired shape and carefully place it in the gaps between the frame profiles. In our case, rolled fiberglass is used as thermal insulation. Izover, however, any alternative in the form of slabs thin enough to be laid between the profiles will do. To ensure that the insulation holds well, we unbend the petals of the suspensions along its surface.

Step 6: Plasterboard Sheathing

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, the attic is completely insulated over the sheathing with another layer of thermal insulation, which, under conditions harsh winter it won't be superfluous. Laying it down roll material between the profiles and fix them with the petals of the suspensions.

Then we fasten the sheets of dry plaster with self-tapping screws in increments of at least 60 centimeters. In areas of the frame with complex geometry, we cut out fragments of the appropriate shape exactly to the dimensions.

How to cover the ceiling in the attic, in addition to plasterboard

So we've looked at simplest example covering the under-roof space with dry plaster. However, this is far from the only option. In particular, it is entirely acceptable to use moisture-resistant plywood, which can become the basis for decorative finishing; ceiling leveling can also be achieved using chipboard sheets, especially tongue and groove. Great solution If you are in doubt about what to sheathe with, use OSB boards, which are connected to each other very tightly using a tongue-and-groove method.

As an alternative, drywall can be suspended ceiling, which is quite easy to install and in combination with structures made of dry plaster.

How independent option, can be used wooden lining or PVC siding, aluminum slatted ceilings have also proven themselves recently. All these materials do not require additional finishing and are already of high quality. decorative coating, Truth, slatted ceiling It’s quite difficult to do it in the attic with your own hands. But plywood or OSB with chipboard should definitely be covered with wallpaper or lined with polystyrene tiles.

Owners of large houses very often have a room such as an attic at their disposal. Its finishing has certain nuances, which can be resolved very easily when working with drywall.

Finishing attics plasterboard will help you do it yourself excellent renovation and end up with a beautiful and insulated room.

The attic is a rather non-standard room, which has a sloping roof, as well as a lot of uneven corners. As a result, covering the attic floor requires foresight and prudence from a person. Of all modern materials It is plasterboard that is best suited for finishing this floor. With its help you can achieve:

• excellent appearance premises;
• sheathe all uneven corners;
• qualitatively sew up all elements of the attic floor;
• mask all unevenness and defects of the floor;
• hide communications;
• create a variety of functional and decorative designs: niches, shelves, arches, etc.;
• level and insulate the room.

It is also worth noting that covering the attic floor with plasterboard is quite doable with your own hands. It will be easy if you follow certain rules.

What calculations are needed

Finishing attic floor requires extensive work. Therefore, in order for the cladding to be of high quality, you need to take into account certain nuances of this room:

• location. Since the attic is located on the top floor, it makes sense to carry out additional insulation of the room;
• presence of uneven angles;
• roof slope.

In order to take into account all the features of the attic floor, you need to draw up a drawing. It is compiled as follows:

• we measure the room;
• we put the parameters of the attic on paper;
• we indicate the places where the frame is attached, especially in the corners;
• We mark the places where the wires pass for additional lighting (if available).

Attic cladding diagram

Also note the dimensions plasterboard structures that are planned. Their parameters are applied to the paper: height, width and depth.
The drawing will help you calculate exact amount materials necessary for work. To ensure that there is exactly enough materials, 10% should be added to the final figure.

Materials and tools

Attic finishing drywall assumes that you have the following list of materials:

• plasterboard sheets:

Note! For the attic floor, only moisture-resistant sheets should be used, which will prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

• metal or wooden profiles;
• dowels and screws;
• insulation;
• putty;
• primer.

To carry out all the upcoming work, you will need the following tools:

• drill-driver with a set of drills;
• hammer drill with safety glasses;
• building level;
• knife for cutting plasterboard;
• metal scissors;
• tape measure with pencil;
• set of trowels;
• roller or brush.

With such a set of materials and tools, do-it-yourself attic cladding will go “without a hitch.”

Beginning of work

At the very beginning of the work, you should carry out preparations that will allow you to quickly and efficiently complete the repair. Preparatory stage includes the following procedures:

Insulation

• clearing the floor of things and rubbish;
• purchase required quantity materials, as well as tools required for work;
• We insulate the premises;
• We apply markings to the ceiling and walls according to the previously drawn drawing.

By following the steps described above, you can simplify your work as much as possible during the installation of structures.

Insulation of the room

Before the beginning installation work, it is necessary to insulate the floor. An attic is a room under a roof, therefore, especially in winter period, may be much colder than the rest of the house. Therefore, before covering plasterboard sheets, the attic is insulated.
Can be used as insulation different materials:

Foam plastic, cotton wool, film

• Styrofoam. It happens different thicknesses: 20, 30, 40, 50 and 100 mm. The thickness of the foam sheets should be selected based on temperature regime region of residence, ventilation of walls and roof. Their installation is very easy, so you can handle the insulation quickly. We seal the gaps between the plates with polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool. It is also very often used for insulating attics. But it has certain disadvantages, among which carcinogenicity occupies a significant place. The dust that is generated during insulation is harmful to human health. Therefore, when working with mineral wool, you must adhere to safety measures. The thickness of mineral wool can be from 20 to 200 mm;
• vapor-permeable film. It should be used if there is damage to the roof or walls. You need to attach it in such a way that the rough side of the film faces you. This film simply needs to be stretched between the rafters and secured with a stapler. For stronger fixation, thinner ones should be used. wooden beams, which are nailed along the rafters.

It should be noted that foam plastic and mineral wool can also be used at the stage of installing the frame for plasterboard slabs. In such a situation, they are inserted into the frame and then covered with sheets.
Note! During insulation, pay Special attention windows and doors, since this is where drafts most often occur due to poor-quality insulation.
In any situation, it is necessary that there are no gaps in the insulation. To seal the gaps remaining after insulation, you need to use polyurethane foam(when insulating with polystyrene foam) or remnants of insulation (when insulating with mineral wool). After installing it, it is recommended to stretch a vapor-permeable film over the insulation ( rough side inward to move moisture towards the street). We fix the film using a stapler. You can also fix this film with your own hands after finishing the installation of the frame, before attaching the plasterboard boards.

Frame installation

At this stage, you should prepare a frame for installing plasterboard slabs. Sheets of material in the attic can be installed in the following ways:

Attaching to rafters

• to the rafters. It is used when the distance between adjacent rafters is 60–75 cm. It is considered the fastest and cheapest, but does not provide ideal alignment of the sheathing, since the rafters themselves are uneven. Therefore, 25 mm thick sheets should be used here;

• on a wooden frame. In this case, to create the frame you need to use specially treated wooden slats. It is allowed if the distance between the rafters is 60 cm. This method makes it possible to install insulation between the slats, which will improve the thermal insulation of the room. To level the surface, you can place pads under the slats;

Frames

Note! Replacement allowed wooden slats on hat profiles. They must also be attached to the rafters. With their help, you can achieve greater flexibility, but they exclude the possibility of using an additional layer of thermal insulation.

• on a metal frame. Considered the best option. Here metal profiles are attached to ES hangers. With their help you can easily level the surface. Usually the metal frame is installed on anchor bolts. We place the anchors so that the distance between the profiles does not exceed 50 cm.

In any case, first carry out the sheathing around the perimeter (use the “UD” profile guides), and then install crossbars(rack profile “CD”) or beams. This will stabilize the structure and make it more rigid.
The distance between the rafters depends on the type of insulation. For foam plastic, this distance increases by 2-3 mm, and for mineral wool - by 5-7 cm.
During installation, you need to constantly check the level in order to ultimately get an even structure. Wiring needs to be done into the finished frame.

Plasterboard finishing

When completing the installation of the frame, using any of the above methods, it should be sheathed with sheets. Drywall in the attic should begin to be attached from the ceiling, and only then move on to the walls and only at the very end - to the slopes.
If you do not need to design load-bearing structures, you should use thin sheets. If there are niches and shelves, we take thicker slabs.
The plating proceeds as follows:

Sheathing with plasterboard

• first we attach solid sheets;
• Then we make markings on the sheets and cut them with a knife;
• We apply it to the attachment point and, if necessary, trim it so that it fits perfectly. This should be done especially in corners and places of sufficient curvature of the room;
• We attach the cut sheets to the frame with self-tapping screws. Here it is worth paying special attention to the insertion of screws. They should enter the material by 1-1.5 mm.

Note! Place the sheets one at a time to make your work much easier.
When the cladding is completed, we move on to the final finishing of the structure.

Final finishing

For final finishing attic, the following operations should be performed:

Treatment of joints with serpyanka

• we treat the joints with serpyanka;
• we putty the places where the screws are attached and the serpyanka;
• we rub all the irregularities with sandpaper;
• we prime the entire structure with a deep penetration solution;
• Apply the final layer of putty. It is applied very thinly.

After this, the final finish can be applied. Thanks to the properties of plasterboard, it can be painted, wallpapered, and decorated. decorative stucco, stylize as fake diamond etc. Therefore, you should choose a finishing option only based on your own preferences.
Following the instructions above, you can easily cover the attic floor of the house with your own hands. The main requirement is strict adherence to the stages of work and the use of high-quality materials. As a result, the attic will become a uniquely beautiful and warm room in your home.

If there is a fairly spacious attic space in the house, no owner will refuse the opportunity to expand their living space by arranging a cozy attic under the roof. You can choose wood as a cladding material, but it is expensive and difficult to work with. In addition, these walls and ceilings will require constant attention and care. Next option– plastic, it is more unpretentious. However, it will be impossible to change the design of the room later, and the material itself is quite cold. The ideal solution is to finish the attic with plasterboard:

1. It's relatively inexpensive.
2. It is possible to carry out insulation and insulation work simultaneously.
3. If you have already dealt with this material, you can easily do without involving a construction team.
4. If you get tired of the finish, you can change it to another quite painlessly.

The only remark: it is better to prefer ordinary drywall in the attic - moisture resistant. Because in such rooms the humidity is usually high.

Preparatory stage of covering the room

Before covering the attic with plasterboard, you need to make sure that it is ready for improvement. We remember that there is a roof above this room, and its condition determines how comfortable you will be in the freshly decorated room, and how long it will last.

1. The condition of the roof is examined. The most reliable results of such an action are during the rainy season - leaks will appear in all their glory. Damaged parts of the roof are repaired with all care.
2. Rafters and beams are no less important in this regard. They are checked for strength, dryness and absence of rotting. All wooden parts are impregnated with antiseptics.

If the house was recently built, equipping the attic room and covering it with plasterboard with your own hands is postponed until all structural elements are completely dry.

Rafter installation

In some cases, it is possible to get by with frameless cladding, although this method is not considered the most reliable. Lathing can be considered optional for a small attic, where the distance between the rafters is a maximum of 75 centimeters.

1. Drywall is purchased with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Thinner sheets that are rigidly fixed to the rafters will begin to bend and swell.
2. The cut drywall is placed on the walls using a special glue. In those places where the surface is fairly flat, it is applied in a layer. Where dips are observed, cakes are applied to level out differences in altitude.
3. IN last resort The attic ceiling is being finished. Here the cutting must be as precise as possible. Individual sheets are fixed not only with glue, but also with long stainless steel screws into the rafters.

Internal corners, especially those at an angle, are strengthened not just with serpyanka, but perforated corner. And keep in mind: you most likely will not have a perfectly flat surface, since the rafters may have a significant difference in height.

Frame method: we use a metal profile

This method is not only more reliable, but also allows you to insulate the room. Of course, if you intend to use it purely for summer, this step is not mandatory, although it helps to operate the attic longer without intermediate repairs.

1. Careful measurements of the entire room are taken. Calculated and purchased required material: profiles, drywall, hardware.
2. Installation of the sheathing begins with the walls. The markings of the future sheathing are transferred to the floor and ceiling (be sure to check that the rack is vertical).
3. Frame guides are installed around the perimeter. Each of the profile segments must be fixed at least at 3 points. Maximum distance between fasteners - meter.
4. Racks are attached to the guides at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other using metal screws. It is imperative to check their verticality.
5. Next, the crossbars are fixed. Their frequency should correspond to the length of the plasterboard sheets after cutting.
6. If you are laying electrical communications, they are installed precisely at this stage, when the sheathing has already been created, and covering the attic with plasterboard is still ahead.
7. Insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. It is optimal to use mineral wool as it: it is indifferent to moisture and is not susceptible to the teeth of rodents.

The entire structure is covered with a water vapor barrier membrane. If the humidity in your attic is low, you can skip this step.

GKL attic cladding

Basic principles on how to sheathe attic room plasterboard, are similar to similar actions for finishing other rooms.

1. The cut sheets are attached to the profiles with a step between fasteners of 20-25 cm.
2. Horizontal seams should be offset relative to each other by at least a third of the width of the sheet. If it turns out that the whole slab forms a straight line with the adjacent joint, replace it with a trimmed one.
3. First, the space is laid out with solid plasterboards. The trimmings are put to use when the main area is sheathed.
4. In the walls of the attic, where there are openings - doors or windows - at the junction of the plasterboard sheets they are fixed with the same frequency of fasteners along the entire perimeter of the opening. And make sure that the gypsum board joints do not fall on the corners of the openings: in these places the tensile stress is high, especially if the sashes are opening (not a solid window), and the finishing will become covered with cracks over time.

The treatment of walls and ceilings before finishing is also standard: sealing joints and hardware caps, strengthening corners, priming and puttying. But how to finish an attic already lined with plasterboard is a matter of your preferences and tastes. Any type of finish is acceptable. The only limitation is the lack of heating, if you did not install it in the attic.
As you can see, covering an attic room with plasterboard is only a little more difficult than the same room in a residential building. Difficulties usually arise in the area inclined planes attics, but people who have already built similar structures easily adapt to new installation conditions.

Finishing the attic with plasterboard helps to increase the usable area and hide defects in wall ceilings, creating a healthy microclimate.

This lightweight material, which, with a minimum of labor costs, will not create a large load on the attic structure.

But Finishing work plasterboard sheets are made after thermal insulation of the room, since the material itself is not insulating.

Selection and calculation of building materials

Thus, the attic space is an under-roof space with conditions prone to high levels of humidity.

To calculate the required number of finishing plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the surfaces being sheathed and divide the result by the area of ​​1 plasterboard slab.

The purchase of material for cladding should be carried out with a reserve. The need for other building materials and tools depends on the finishing method.

Preparation

When using an attic space in the summer, preparation consists of removing the existing old coating from its surfaces and cleaning the wall and ceiling floors from dust and debris.

Finishing work does not begin without checking the condition of the roofing.

During the rainy season, weak spots in the roof will appear, and then its timely repair will guarantee the absence of leaks on the installed plasterboard sheets.

Beams and rafters are checked for strength, dryness, and the absence of traces of rot and mold.

For a newly constructed attic, finishing is delayed until the structure is completely dry, as this may affect the displacement and deformation of the drywall.

Fastening is done in 1 or 2 layers. Start with the side planes, leaving the ceiling trim for last.

Insulation process

As an insulating material, you can use polystyrene foam, the thickness of which is in the range of 2-10 cm. When installing slabs from this material, the joints are treated with polyurethane foam for tightness.

Disadvantage: the ability to create favorable conditions for rodents.

When installing mineral wool as an insulating material, dust cannot be avoided that is unsafe for human health. Layer thickness is within 2-20 cm.

Correct insulation technology requires the creation of a waterproofing layer from the inside of the plane, located with the porous part facing outwards.

Therefore, surface insulation begins with cutting waterproofing material V right size and its fastening between the rafters.

The material is stretched and secured with a stapler. The edges of the waterproofing material are overlapped.

Tools and materials

• Plasterboard sheets,
• Straight metal profiles for 2.5 – 6 m,
• Corner metal profiles,
• Suspensions,
• Crabs,
• Electric drill,
• Metal spatula,
• Long tape measure.

The manufacture of the frame is possible using wooden beams, the humidity of which is from 12%.

In this case, it will require pre-treatment with antiseptics, which will extend its service life and protect it from rotting.

Rafter fastening

Finishing the attic with plasterboard and attaching it to the rafters is recommended for small room with a pitch between rafters of up to 75 cm.

The advantages of this option are the speed of completion of the work, minimum costs compared to the construction of sheathing, and minimum physical effort during the installation process.

The downside is the possibility of difficulties arising when leveling the finishing layer due to the imperfect alignment of the rafters.

Therefore, to smooth out this defect, a thicker material is selected - 25 mm, since thin plasterboard sheets will be subject to bending and damage when the roof slab vibrates.

On a metal frame

Before fastening, the frame boundaries are marked on the floor using a paint cord. A similar contour is transferred to ceiling plumb.

Lines on surfaces mark the locations of frame elements.

The guides are mounted with dowels and self-tapping screws. A separate profile section is fixed to the base in at least 3 places in increments of up to 1 m.

The hangers securing the frame are mounted vertically.

Installation of racks in the guides is done relative to the vertical markings. The elements are attached to the guides and hangers with self-tapping screws.

Plasterboard boards are fastened with self-tapping screws at intervals of 25 cm.

If the height capacity of a larger amount of vertically located material is available, the fastening of its slabs is carried out offset to avoid long horizontal joints.

Installation on wooden sheathing

Sheathing is a frame structure made of wood, constructed from slats running across the rafters. Arrangement of slats in one plane using leveling pads.

Plasterboard slabs are installed vertically on horizontal beams.

The importance of this stage lies in the final leveling of the plane. Failure to carry out this process correctly will favor the appearance of cracks.

First, the seams are puttied. The top application of the connecting reinforcing tape is made with the seam passing relatively exactly to its middle.

After the first layer of putty has hardened, a thinner layer is re-applied to the seam with tape.

After him completely dry putty is applied with a 3rd layer. The recesses from the screws are also sealed. At the end, all rough spots are sanded down.

Master class on the topic:

The resulting surface is primed and covered with wallpaper, a decorative plaster layer, or painted.

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Finishing the attic with plasterboard - simple, economical
The article will tell you about finishing the attic with plasterboard

Often the attic space in a house is turned into residential space, because this is an excellent option to increase usable area without big expenses. Finishing the attic with plasterboard is an excellent solution to the problem interior design allowing you to quickly make non-residential premises suitable for habitation.

However, this type of work involves many nuances, because the attic itself does not have thick walls, and it will be necessary to insulate and strengthen the entire structure.

What are the advantages of finishing the attic floor with plasterboard?

Firstly, it is affordable and relatively inexpensive option quickly make repairs in a room that was initially completely uninhabitable.

Secondly, the output is ideal, smooth wall surfaces, which will facilitate their further finishing according to the planned decoration plan.

Thirdly, even with emergency situation(roof leakage) moisture resistant drywall able to withstand moisture for some time.

Fourthly, gypsum plasterboard is a very environmentally friendly material, since it does not contain anything other than paper and gypsum.

And finally, this is a simple installation technology that any homeowner can handle with a minimum set of tools.

Stage 1: preparation

If it was planned to turn the attic into a living space during the construction stage, then all the nuances should be taken into account in the project. But what to do when such a need arises for a ready-made house?

Before transferring such a room to the residential category, you first need to calculate the safety margin of the floor. In new houses built after the 80s, it is usually made of reinforced concrete panels, and there should be no problems. But in older houses, the entire floor may need to be replaced.

At the preparation stage, it is necessary to insulate the room, since the roof consumes up to 30% of the total heat of the house.

Two main types of material are used as insulation - polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The insulation technology is as follows.

1. A hydro-vapor barrier in the form of a special film is mounted between the rafters to the surface of the roofing material.
2. The insulation is cut to the size of the cells formed by the rafter supports and laid at the installation site.
3. Another layer of vapor barrier is placed on the insulation material.
4. Surface closes OSB boards, chipboard or plywood.

The last layer in the form of sheets of one material or another can be omitted, but simply a vapor barrier film with insulation can be secured with longitudinal slats packed along the entire floor.

Also, ordinary PVC film cannot be used as a waterproofing layer. It does not have the ability to pass water vapor, as a result of which condensation will first form inside, and over time, mold and mildew.

Stage 2: materials and tools

Drywall in the attic is mounted according to the same principle as in ordinary residential premises, that is, on a frame base. Accordingly, the selection of materials and tools is the same, namely:

• Metal profile of CD and UD markings.
• Fastening material: self-tapping screws, press washers, crab joints.
• Hacksaw or metal scissors, tape measure, level, screwdriver.
• Drywall, preferably moisture resistant.

Also, the frame can be made not of metal, but of wood. For this, well-dried timber is prepared - the main and supporting slats. The wood should not only be dried. Before assembling the frame, all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic agents to protect against mold and mildew. And under no circumstances should you assemble the frame using nails!

Stage 3: assembly of the frame base

Finishing the attic floor with plasterboard is possible in three options: on a metal frame, wooden or directly on the rafter system.

Metal profile frame

First, the location of all partitions, both wall and interior (if any), is planned.

1. As well as the area on the basis of which the ceiling surface will be formed.
2. Usually, a low partition (wall) is mounted at some distance from the wall. To do this, two longitudinal guides from a UD profile are mounted along the room.
3. The carrier rails of the CD profile are inserted into the guides. If possible, you can do it additional fastening for direct hangers to the rafters. If necessary, transverse slats from the same profile are also mounted, connecting to each other with “crabs”.

Self-tapping screws or press washers are used for fastening. The attic ceiling made of plasterboard is also mounted on such a frame. To assemble it, you may need hangers with traction, since the length of the straight lines does not always allow for fastening frame structure. To assemble the ceiling base, the following work is carried out:

1. The lowest point is measured, and markings are made from it using a hydraulic level. All marks are connected with a marking cord.
2. According to the marks, guide profiles are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws.
3. The supporting rails from the profile are inserted into them and secured to press washers. If required, additional fastening is performed on hangers or rods.

With a significant length of the ceiling structure, the use of additional direct suspensions or fastenings with rods is mandatory!

Longitudinal support rails are also installed, which are connected to the transverse ones using connections.

Wooden frame

To assemble it, two types of slats are used - main and load-bearing. The main ones are attached to the rafter system with self-tapping screws; they serve as the basis for the installation of load-bearing beams. Load-bearing – serve as a support for plasterboard sheets.

Also, if you do not plan to create walls and partitions, you can attach the load-bearing slats directly to the rafters, which in turn will play the role of the main ones.

For installation wooden frame walls there is the following algorithm:

1. Install longitudinal slats.
2. The frame racks are mounted on them, connecting to the longitudinal rails using a mounting angle.
3. Insert cross bars, securing them to the posts.

If necessary, the frame is treated with an antiseptic and the installation of gypsum boards begins.

Rafters as a frame

It is also possible to make a device for filing the gypsum plasterboard attic directly onto the rafter system. Alternatively, you can mount longitudinal slats, and then sheets of material are attached to them. Or you can mount gypsum boards directly on the rafters using wood screws, this is the most cheap finishing attic floor with plasterboard. In this case, you don’t even have to assemble the frame for ceiling structure. In this option, finishing the attic ceiling with plasterboard follows all the shapes of the roof.

Stage 4: how to decorate an attic with plasterboard

The process is exactly the same as in a regular room.

1. Sheets of material, if necessary, are cut to size.
2. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, sinking the caps into the surface by 2 millimeters.
3. If you need to bend a sheet, then pierce the cardboard shell at the bend and wet the material. Next, the sheet is applied to the frame in the desired shape and secured. Once dry, it will take the desired shape.
4. Serpyanka is glued at the joints of the gypsum boards and further finishing begins.

A plasterboard attic made using technology will last a very long time and will allow you to increase the usable square footage of the house without significant investment.

Stages self-cladding plasterboard attic
The attic is often made into a residential floor, but it requires renovation work. How is an attic finished with plasterboard, what do you need to know for this, and what nuances should be taken into account?

Attic finishing– an excellent solution for adding another living space. The most commonly used finish is clapboard. But one of the best materials plasterboard is used for finishing. How is the attic finished with plasterboard?

Choosing material

In order to cladding the ceiling in a dacha with high quality, it is important to choose the right plasterboard sheets.

• It is important that the material has increased resistance to moisture. He shouldn't be afraid of water. Therefore, it is important to choose moisture-resistant green plasterboard.
• Fire resistance properties are also important. Such slabs are reinforced with mesh and contain fiberglass additives. Such designs make it possible to keep slabs from destruction in a fire for several hours. Rafter system It won't hurt at all.
• The best choice is slabs that combine both fire-resistant and water-repellent properties.

GKL KNAUF (KNAUF) plasterboard sheet 12.5 mm

Advantages of plasterboard ceilings for the attic

• Due to the small thickness of the finishing layer, the area of ​​the attic is not reduced.
• The low cost makes it possible to sheathe the ceiling for almost any budget.
• The installation process will not be as labor-intensive as when finishing with clapboard. And full processing allows you to realize any design ideas.

The following advantages of the plasterboard sheets themselves are highlighted:

• Environmental safety. This material consists of natural gypsum and cellulose. It does not contain any harmful additives.
• High strength characteristics. Through it you can install fastenings for lighting fixtures required for the ceiling.
• High elasticity. If deformation of the main ceiling occurs, the gypsum board may bend, but will not break or crack.
• Waterproof. This is pretty useful property, which will come in handy if for any reason the roof is damaged. At the same time, the attic room will be protected from possible flooding.
• Fire resistance. If a fire emergency occurs, drywall will protect your roof from catching fire. But it is necessary to choose sheets with increased fire resistance.
• Possibility of giving the desired shape. If the material is wet on one side, the material can be given almost any shape. It will remain after drying.
• Excellent compatibility with other materials. Even when decorating the walls with clapboard, a harmonious space is created.

Ceiling finishing features

Finishing an attic with plasterboard always begins with finishing the ceiling. This method is not only inexpensive, but also effective. It allows you to prepare the surface for subsequent processing. In this case, the walls can be covered with clapboard.

Installation materials

Plasterboard cladding requires the use of the following materials:

• Moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets,
• Mineral wool,
• Metal or wooden profiles,
• Fasteners in the form of self-tapping screws,
• reinforced tape,
• Putty mixture for leveling and finishing.

Installation on wood sheathing

Sheathing can be done in one of the following ways:

• The first method begins with the need to insulate and finish the entire surface inside. Hard-to-reach areas that are located between the bottom of the slope and the floor are used. You can successfully arrange pantries and cabinets in niches.
• The second method involves fencing a certain part of the room. Drywall sheets are installed on a frame made of wood or metal guides.

First you need to do wooden sheathing. Individual slats are fixed across the rafters at a certain distance. The cross-section of individual slats is determined not only by the thickness of the plasterboard sheets, but also by the distance between the rafters. For example, with a rafter pitch of 100 cm, the slats should have a cross-section of 60x40 mm.

The sheathing is attached to the pediment using dowels. Plasterboard sheets are fixed to the frame in increments of 25 cm using screws. In this way you can arrange the ceiling in your dacha. The walls can also be finished with plasterboard, but they can also be finished with clapboard.

Wooden frame for ceiling

Mounting on a metal profile

More often, a metal frame is used in cases where it is necessary to sheathe a large area ceiling. This design provides increased fire resistance and resistance to physical impacts of the entire frame. The pitch of the rafters should be up to 100 cm. All work is carried out according to the following scheme:

• First, hangers and brackets are attached to the rafters.
• Profiles having a given pitch are screwed perpendicular to them. It is chosen depending on the thickness of the drywall used. For example, a pitch of 50 cm is suitable for sheets having a thickness of 12.5 mm.
• Using self-tapping screws, screw the sheets of self-tapping screws. It is important to maintain a step of up to 20 cm.
• The ceiling begins to be laid from below, and next row laid directly next to the already installed row.

Plasterboard ceiling installation

Final finishing

Ceilings in the attic are finished in the same way as other structures. There are certain steps that need to be taken. The seams between the sheets must be filled with putty. The surface is checked for defects such as dents, holes and protruding fasteners. Everything needs to be put in order.

It is important to perform the following sequence of actions:

• Treat the entire surface with a liquid primer,
• Putty joints and holes with screws,
• Reinforcing mesh must be glued to the joints,
• A layer of starting putty composition is applied to the ceiling,
• When the first layer has dried, a layer of finishing putty is applied,
• When the surface is dry, it is sanded using a device with an abrasive surface,
• Carry out a complete cleaning of the attic, including debris and dust,
• Apply primer to the surface.

If you plan to decorate the walls with clapboard, choose suitable color for the ceiling. If you want to create a light modern interior, you can use white or sand shades of finish. At the same time, when finishing walls with clapboard, it can also be coated with paint of a dense structure.

What materials to choose for finishing the attic with plasterboard
Finishing the attic with plasterboard is optimal, inexpensive, effective and quick way make the attic room suitable for living.

Many owners of private houses often think about attic space, located under the roof, make it suitable for living. Due to this, the usable area of ​​the house will significantly expand, the costs will be quite acceptable - both in terms of money and labor.

A good option, which has already been tried by thousands of homeowners, is coating parts of the roof inside with one or another finishing material. What exactly to choose is up to each master to decide for himself; there are plenty of options.

Experts assure that drywall is perfect for solving this problem. As you know, this material is practical, cheap, and sold everywhere.

Pros and cons of drywall

The decision has been made and the attic will be finished with plasterboard. Before getting down to work, it is worth considering in detail the advantages and disadvantages of the facing material.

Drywall is a material that not only costs moderately, but also has a mass unique characteristics, which every builder should know about.

• The first thing to say is that this material contains natural gypsum. This material has a positive effect on the indoor microclimate; it is able to absorb excess moisture from the air (and if there is a deficiency, it will begin to be released). This parameter of drywall already speaks in favor of the fact that interior finishing work should be carried out with its help;
• Another interesting characteristic is fire resistance. Thanks to her under the influence high temperatures the material will not burn - only smolder a little. The process will not release substances harmful to human health;
• Practical and lightweight drywall It is perfect for finishing premises, including because it is not difficult to work with, the process is carried out quickly. The time spent on finishing in this case is slightly less than when choosing a material of any other class;
• On average, it takes 2-3 days to create a metal frame and cover it with sheets. Then finishing surface – it will take the same amount of time.

About the disadvantages:

What can be said about the disadvantages of drywall? Its durability level is not high enough. Even small loads are enough for the sheets to collapse.

To finish the attic with plasterboard, it is worth working in stages - with mandatory preparation (this includes inspecting the roof and repairing it if necessary). This will be discussed in detail below.

Preparation stage

Preparatory work for finishing the attic includes several mandatory points: it is very important to do them correctly, the success of the entire renovation depends on it.

• The first step is to make sure that the roof of the structure is in perfect condition. Any leaks here must be excluded. It is important to check this aspect in advance - only then in the future the attic will delight you with comfort and coziness.

If the walls have already been covered with plasterboard and some roof defects suddenly appear, it will be extremely difficult to correct the situation.

A common phenomenon: smudges appear on sheets of drywall. Most often this is observed in autumn or spring - when precipitation is heavy. That is, if the roof needs repairs, even partial ones, it is better to postpone the idea of ​​finishing the attic with your own hands in advance.

It is better to detect leaks in the off-season - that is, before finishing a given room, you should wait until spring or autumn. Then all defects will be guaranteed to be identified, the owner will easily understand which areas roofing have damage. After eliminating all these shortcomings, you can safely begin the second stage of preparation.

• As part of the second part preparatory work the master examines load-bearing elements roofing structure: rafters, beams. Their reliability and durability should not cause any complaints;
• During viewing, the owner must make sure that there is no accumulation of dampness here, and that there are no traces of rot or mold on the surface.

The wooden elements of the frame base are thoroughly dried before installing the drywall. This small precaution will protect the structure from deformation in the future during operation - most often sheets finishing material If the master doesn’t pay attention, they shift, and the entire finish is destroyed.

Tools and materials - you can’t do without them

To carry out finishing work on attic room, there should be appropriate Construction Materials and certain tools. This is worth talking about in more detail..

• Drywall blanks are required;
• Wooden blocks or metallic profile(to build a frame);
• Fastening elements (sold in sets) are also important. This kit includes both self-tapping screws and specialized hangers.

Tools for work:

1. Construction level - it is this element that helps control the horizontal fastening of profiles or bars on the walls;
2. Screwdriver - during frame construction this tool indispensable, as when attaching sheathing sheets;
3. It is most convenient to cut metal blanks with a grinder (you will have to do this, because elements of a certain length will be used). Metal scissors will also come in handy at this stage;
4. Pencil and tape measure;
5. The most convenient way to cut drywall blanks is with a sharp knife (however, a wood saw is also used in this work).

Frame and its assembly

If the attic is small, facing material The easiest way is to mount it on a wooden frame. Thin slats and bars are stuffed onto rafters and beams, after which they are sheathed with plasterboard sheets. About.

A solid metal frame is necessary only in a number of cases. Namely:

• When it is not possible to fix the facing material on the inner roof sheathing in any other way;
• If the attic space is large;
• In a situation where the owner wants to make the attic interior original and unusual. That is, you can’t do without a frame complex configuration with all the desire.

How to install a metal frame

So, it's time to make a metal base for the subsequent cladding of the attic. What does it look like this process, what should a master know about him?

• Everything here is exactly the same as when building a frame for any other room;
• Guides are installed along the perimeter of the attic. Rack profiles are installed in them - in increments of 0.6 m;
• When work is carried out, special attention must be paid to areas with door and window openings;
• In these places, the master selects the installation step of the profiles, taking into account that the cladding planes exactly follow the contours of the doors and windows;
• During construction metal frame Difficulties often arise.

Often during the preparation process it is necessary to accurately repeat the contours of the roofing structure - often its shape is complex.

• If the owner wants to optimally use the usable space in the future room, he will have to make a frame structure that exactly follows the contours of the roof.

Insulation of the attic floor

Any owner wants to get not only a cozy, but also a warm attic. To do this, an insulating layer must be placed between the sheathing and the roof structure (frame niches are ideal for this).

Material made in the form of plates or mats is ideal for this - it is most convenient to work with. For placement, one of these approaches is usually used:

• Free styling;
• Fixation with specially prepared glue;
• Insulation boards or mats are fastened with scraps from the profile (there is usually a lot of waste).

The first method is usually chosen when the material is placed in the niches as tightly as possible - without any gaps.

In them it is fixed independently - this happens due to compression.

The second option is suitable for securely fixing the insulation to a surface that has been previously treated with specialized glue.

The last case is considered the most effective. The insulation plates are pressed securely to the plane with profile fragments (there are plenty of them left after the frame is installed).

Conclusion: frame cladding

How to cover a frame with plasterboard correctly - this question worries many novice craftsmen. Usually one layer is enough. However, sometimes they do it differently - to make the coating more durable, the material is laid in two layers.

• Single layer cladding - great way savings both on the material itself and on repair work in the future (if for some reason there is a need for them). But in this situation the walls will not be very strong - this is a minus;
• The other option requires a lot of expense (both in terms of money and manpower), but as a result the structural strength will be decent;
• Single-layer plasterboard lining of the attic can be done easily with your own hands. Everything is done like this: first finishing sheet applied to the plane of the sheathing (that is, to the sheathing);
• Next, it is simply secured with self-tapping screws on the frame base (a step of 0.2 m is enough).

An interesting point: if you decide to make the cladding in two layers, you first need to form one layer of material, then lay the second layer - with some offset, this is important.

This is how finishing an attic with plasterboard can be done by anyone. Thematic video is also recommended for viewing:

The result of all this is an additional attic space where it will be warm, comfortable, and as cozy as possible.