One of the oldest building structures– wooden frame – is now confidently returning to individual construction. The reason is not only the prestigious appearance of log buildings: a log house breathes very well - it is not hot in the summer, warm in the winter without additional insulation, and the humidity is optimal. Setting up a log house with your own hands is quite a difficult task., but feasible for a hardworking and attentive beginner, and the savings in money compared to a custom-made log house can be 2-3 times. But no less important is the fact that the service life of a home-made log house can exceed 100 and even 200 years, while the standard for log building structures is 40 years; In fact, the best standard log houses last for 50-70 years. Reason – to build a log house for several generations, you need to observe a lot of subtleties in the work, about which this article was written; they will also help extend the service life of a typical log frame and make it more durable. Good carpenters most often know them, but not every millionaire can afford to pay for such painstaking work. And with your own hands, it will only cost you about a year of extra time: before construction continues, the correct original log house must withstand from warm to warm through the winter.

Prerequisites

Not only before starting work, but first of all thinking about it, you need to clearly understand certain rules and apply them to your own conditions. After this, the material is selected - wild logs, rounded logs, timber - and the actual construction technology.

Bar, cylinder or savage?

Measured lumber is widely sold in lengths up to 12 m. But edged 3- or 4-edged timber can be spliced ​​in length (see below), so a timber frame on a normally buried foundation can, in principle, be very large, top left in Fig. below. Profile timber for a log house is quite expensive, but it is sold in ready-made kits for homes, bathhouses, etc. (see figure on the right), which are often accompanied by a standard project. Its approval takes place without problems, and all that remains is to assemble the log house according to the attached instructions and let it stand for the weight shrinkage for the time indicated there. The actual service life of a house made from such timber will be 60-70 years, and with high-quality caulk and regular annual maintenance (renewing the outside impregnation) - up to 100 years.

There are no reliable methods of joining along round logs, so maximum length houses made of rounded logs 12 m outside. You can add living space by building an extension along with the house and on a common foundation with it (top right in the figure), but taking into account all the restrictions on cutting into the log house, the width of the extension is no more than 2/3 of the length of the wall to which it is adjacent. The maximum possible option of this type is a 12x12 log house without piers, with a 6x6 extension sticking out of each wall. Service life is the same as timber structure, because A rounded log is actually a type of profile beam.

Basic Rules

A wild log house made from self-purchased and prepared logs can last more than 200 years; log houses made from wild logs are known, of which there are more than 600. Wild logs are not a measured material and can be prepared in lengths of more than 12 m. But the assembly of a log house from “wild” logs is so unique that we will return to it a little later, but for now we will complete the analysis of those common to all types log construction rules (see figure and list below):

• The fire safety of log buildings is not above average. Impregnation with the best modern fire retardants (impregnating materials for fire resistance) will extinguish a burning rag that has fallen on the floor and slow down the spread of flames from a strong fire enough to allow time for people to evacuate and, possibly, to partially remove property. But, even if the fire is extinguished quickly, the remains of the house will have to be demolished and a new one built.
• The cost of the materials for a cheap wild log house is at least twice as much as for a frame or panel house the same useful volume.
• The labor intensity of building a log house is very high. If, without experience, you manage to make a log house for 12 crowns over the summer (this is a ceiling of 2.5-2.7 m), and no more than 10% of the prepared material will be wasted, then you are a gifted carpenter.
• A chainsaw, a drill, and possibly a stationary circular saw and a jointer will greatly help reduce the construction time of a log house, but the share of qualified self made however, it is still high. To assemble a frame, simply swinging your hands until your bones ache is not enough. You need to work measuredly, carefully, slowly, all the time using your eye, accuracy and ingenuity.
• A log house made of wild logs for a bathhouse or a non-residential house (country house, country summer house, hunting house) can be built on a shallow foundation on soils that are even very heaving.
• The assembly of the log house is carried out all at once - along with the log porch, veranda, summer kitchen, entryway, dressing room and other outbuildings. There are technical possibilities to postpone the completion of the entire construction “for later”, see pos. 1 in Fig., they are not technically acceptable: the duration and nature of the shrinkage of the log house are significantly different from those of other wooden building structures.

• Cutting a log house into a corner without leaving a residue (see below), which significantly saves material, will require the use of connections that are asymmetrical with respect to the longitudinal axis of the log or timber. In this case, the overlapping ends of the units of material must move from one side of the corner to the other on odd and even rims, pos. 2. You can use one template for marking the grooves and tenons, but when marking the next crown, you need to not only turn it, but also turn it over so that the marking comes out in a mirror image. To do this, the sides of the template are marked “H” (odd) and “H” (even).
• Do not place the log house on support beams, pos. 3. The log house does not need either a load-bearing support or a damping cushion - it supports itself. The foundation is covered with waterproofing and the frame is assembled directly on it. And the support beams under the log house can be, and often turn out to be, a loophole for rot and pests.
• The installation of the log house is carried out immediately on site, i.e. on the foundation of the building, while immediately making a rough stretched caulk (item 4); however, . Assembling a frame for the sake of simplifying work upside down next to the foundation and then moving it into place crown by crown is a crude hack, suitable for temporary or completely unpretentious buildings, for example. taiga winter hut.
• The floor in log buildings is made only floating, pos. 5. Embed load-bearing beams floors (backing beams) into logs or timber beams is unacceptable!

We build from logs

A log house is suitable for all types of log buildings. It is the most resistant, durable and can stand on a shallow foundation on moving soils. So let's start with a more detailed analysis.

Tool

In addition to the usual woodworking tool, the special tool mentioned above is absolutely necessary to cut down a log house. To build an edged timber frame, you can do without it.

You will need at least 2 axes: a carpenter's ax with a straight blade and a carpenter's ax with a convex blade, on the left in Fig. If you have a chainsaw, you don’t need a cleaver - you can use it to halve logs in the old fashioned way and chop off blocks from them. An axe-axe with an asymmetrically convex blade (top right in the figure) and a set of adzes (bottom right) will also be very useful. A wooden badger sledgehammer by 2-3.5 kg, in the inset, will greatly improve the quality of work and reduce the muscular effort required for it.

A carpenter's tool, the devil, will be absolutely necessary. There are many similar calipers on sale under this name, but they can accurately mark only the most expensive rounded logs. A real carpenter's tool is a weighty, rough, visible tool (see the figure on the right), which allows you to mark out wild woods that have been debarked by hand. You can make a line for marking logs yourself (see the drawing at the bottom right of the same figure), and it will be more convenient to work with it: a longitudinal through hole is drilled in the handle to the side of the axis for a guide pin, which is fixed with a screw or wedge. Even a completely green one can use this line, but a careful beginner will be able to correctly mark a very clumsy log, see below.

About wild logs

It is a wild log house that can withstand hundreds of years, gradually caking into a kind of monolith. A house or bathhouse made from wild logs breathes at full strength. If a Finnish bathhouse can still be built from galvanized logs or timber, then the original Russian bathhouse is cut only by a “savage”. How to install a wild log house for a bathhouse, see for example. video

Video: building a sauna from wild logs

To understand the secrets of a wild log, let's look at the structure of its cut, see fig. on right. The wild log is debarked by hand lengthwise, rather than rotating in a peeling machine; Therefore, you need to purchase wild wood for felling from harvesters, and only unrooted wood from sellers. When manually debarking logs, the cambium, layers of wood with a special structure, is preserved. In a living tree, it is the cambium that gives the trunk growth in thickness and the formation of underlying layers. And in the log house there is the best breath of wood; in a Russian bath - the optimal ability of the walls to receive and release heat. Manual debarking (barking) of logs is a labor-intensive task, but if you want your descendants to be surprised: “It was my great-grandfather who built it!”, then it’s worth it, see the video:

Video: removing bark from logs (barking) yourself

Note: The cambium is most developed in the ancient contemporaries of dinosaurs - conifers. In flowering dicotyledons it is thinner and has a different structure, but in arboreal monocotyledons (for example palm trees) it is not there at all.

Loggers most often sell freshly felled or, sometimes, last year's wood for pickup, otherwise there is no point in giving them a discount (and a considerable one). Wild timber purchased from loggers for felling and taking into account the payment for a timber truck trip will cost much less than even unbarked logs seasoned at a timber exchange. Which also look for - here it is more profitable for traders to give the savage wood for processing and sell off the seasoned lumber. That is, purchased wild wood will need to be dried in your own stack, see story:

Video: drying timber for a log house

Which one should I buy?

The time of wood harvesting is of great importance for the durability and longevity of a log house. A number of experts believe that the best wood for felling is chopped in the second half of summer and early autumn. At this time (after the seeds ripen), the tree’s own moisture content is the lowest. Natural moisture in wood is not just water, but juices from nutrients, attractive to pests. Closer to winter, the tree again collects sap for wintering: in winter it sleeps, but lives, and maintains its life with reserves of sap. Indeed, the Mediterranean peoples cut down ship timber at the autumnal equinox, but in areas with harsh winter this argument is invalid.

In northern countries, winter wood has always been considered the best wood for felling. The point is not that in the old days the forest was cut down selectively - logging block by block in countries rich in wood was practiced centuries before the advent of the Gulag and prisoners; The NKVD used already proven methods of forestry management. And it’s not that it’s easier to take a log out of the forest on a sleigh than on a cart: the carrying capacity, cross-country ability and maneuverability of a horse-drawn sleigh off a well-worn road is worse than that of a dray cart.

The point is in the ways in which the tree is protected from freezing moisture in the vessels. If the tree's sap freezes, it will die without being damaged by frost. Higher plants“have gotten used to” using one of the anomalous properties of water - its freezing temperature in capillaries drops; in nanotubes it is possible to keep water viscous, but still liquid at –130 Celsius (!). Conifers are very ancient plants, their vascular system is not yet so perfect, so for the winter they add more resinous substances to the juices; It is this juice that flows out in the spring when conifers are tapped for resin. From a tree cut down in winter, the water evaporates when dried, but the resin remains. In a loaded structure, it is still fluidly squeezed out to the open ends of the vessels, where in the air it quickly bituminizes and blocks the path of pests, and only occasionally a few very rare species are capable of biting or leaking spores through the dry cambium.

Note: As a result, the highest quality timber for log houses is harvested in regions with high air humidity, abundant snow and fairly low temperatures. winter temperatures. In the Russian Federation - from Karelia in a strip south to the Pskov region.

Log selection

Unmeasured timber is very roughly rejected for suitability for processing, while measured timber is calibrated as far as the properties of the wood allow: 1% along the length. That is, the curvature of the log, and, what is even more important for us, the difference in diameters of the butt and apical parts of the oryasina (butt and top of a raw commercial log) is allowed 1 cm/m. If you fall logs into a log house as you have to, then the skew of a 3x4 m bathhouse made of 10 crowns of 30 cm logs can run up to half a meter. Therefore, the logs prepared for the log house must be sorted before drying, disassembled on the sides of the building, and marked - which one will lie in which crown of which wall and in which direction.

If you assemble a log house in bulk, it will turn out like the one on the left in Fig. below. Not only is it not worthy of the standard period - for a 12-crown, due to the need to trim each crown, it will take 4 more logs. Which cost a lot of money. After 5-10 years, the log house splits in bulk, caulk climbs out of it, and rots or is infested with a bug. But the frame, assembled from logs, the butts and tops of which are oriented in mutually opposite directions from crown to crown (on the right in the figure), only settles down and gains strength over time.

In a log house made of rounded logs, it is also advisable to orient the butts with the tops in the opposite direction; this increases its actual service life by 1.5-2 times compared to the calculated one. In both cases, in addition to the evenness of the laying, the direction of convergence of the annual layers plays a role. The resinous balsam is squeezed out more towards the butt, and in a correctly folded log house the logs seem to help each other resist external influences. It is difficult to determine the direction of convergence of layers based on the texture of a rounded log, and on spruce and larch it is often impossible, but the “tails” of knots are an excellent indicator: in crowns adjacent in height they should be in different directions, compare left and right in Fig.

Note: When sorting logs for a frame, set aside those that are thicker for the crowns that are lower. The thickness of the logs should decrease upward. Which way does a beer bottle stand - on the bottom or on the neck? A log house made of logs, distributed unevenly in size and height, will at best last a standard period of time.

Which one to chop?

A log house in a corner has one advantage: significantly less material consumption. The correct protrusion of the area is from 1 foot, i.e. more than 30.5 cm. Now they give a burl of 20-25 cm, but this reduces the maximum possible service life of a log house made from a given log by 1.5-2 times. A short block makes sense only in a log house made of re-glued logs. Let's estimate: a log house in a 6x9 oblo with 12 crowns. A total of 96 protruding ends of 30 cm each - 28.8 m of logs! The obla took either almost 5 short logs, or more than 3 long ones. For the money, it bites painfully. In all other respects - in strength, rigidity, durability, appearance - the log house in the corner is inferior to the log house with the remainder. Especially in terms of durability: none of the log houses, which are definitely more than 100 years old, were cut into a corner. The oblas serve as a kind of bituminized plugs that do not allow pests into the tree, and the grooves of the frame (see below) are closed. The ends of the logs in the corner are more open to external influences.

Cover crown

The lowest and most important crown of a log house is called the frame. The quality of the log house as a whole depends a lot on the quality of its assembly. The conventional plane covering the casing crown must be horizontal, so the logs for it are selected and prepared especially carefully.

Not only in RuNet, but also in many old printed manuals for carpenters, one important point in laying the flashing crown is missed: what to do with the gap between it and the foundation formed on 2 sides, if the flashing crown is made like the rest (shown by red arrows in pos. 1 and 2 Fig.)

Lay it with a board or timber? Gates for harmful living creatures, rot and mold: there is no cambium on lumber. Lay a foundation with ledges (pos. 3)? Where is it said about such things with SNIPs? It will crack when it settles. Correctly the framed crown of a log house, especially a log house for a house, is assembled using a split log (item 4):

1. For the short sides of the log house, 1 (one) thickest log, least converging to the top, is selected; ideally cylindrical.
2. For the long sides, select 2 logs of as equal thickness as possible and also converging less at the tops.
3. Edges are removed from long logs for laying on the foundation so that the heights of the cross sections of the logs from the plane of the edge to the top of the cut D are equal along the entire length, see below.
4. The short sides of the log are halved lengthwise or a block is cut out of it (this will come in handy) so that the height of the resulting slabs T along the entire length is equal to half D.
5. The slabs are laid on the foundation.
6. Long logs are placed on the slabs with their edges down and their tops in opposite directions.
7. A line is used to mark the cutting of grooves on long logs for assembly into a clapper (an inverted bowl, see below).
8. Long logs are removed and grooves are selected in them.
9. Long logs are placed in place - they will protrude halfway above the short slabs.
10. Further assembly of the log house is carried out in accordance with everyday instructions (see below).

Note: do not forget here and everywhere else when making grooves to give an allowance of 5-7 mm for caulking! How to make a carriage for a chainsaw for longitudinal cutting of logs, see the video below.

Video: carriage for longitudinal cutting of logs for a log house

How to remove the piping

Removing the edging from long logs (by the way, in the frame they are called beds, and short slabs are called boys) for laying on the foundation is also a responsible matter. You won't be able to walk along the path with a chainsaw; you'll have to work with your hands. Knock the edge into a laying position, as shown in the inset at the top left of Fig. below, maybe an experienced carpenter, and even then in a hurry. The fact is that the ax under its own weight will turn the blade down, and a person’s tactile (muscular) sense has a sensitivity threshold. A beginner without developed muscular skills will feel the ax leaving when it has already bitten down below the cuts (see below), mechanically turn it upward, and the entire edge will turn out to be humpbacked. Correctly, the edging from the bed is removed with an ax in the air (see also the figure below):

• From a pair of beds, choose the thinner one, place it with its top (!) on the support (preferably in the groove on it) and temporarily secure it with staples, pos. 1 in Fig.
• Using a plumb line, mark the axial (central) line, make a notch along it on the support, and mark a plumb line corresponding to the width of the edge equal to half the diameter of the log (forming the edge). Measure the height of the bed at the top D, pos. 4, pos. 2 and 3.
• Shift the bed with its butt onto a support. The plumb line is set vertically axial at the top. A D is laid on the butt, and according to the marks on the butt and top, the contour of the edging is beaten out with a coated cord, pos. 4. It will turn out to be a little divergent, but when laying the bench, its top line will be horizontal.
• Repeat the operations with another leg, putting the resulting D value on its butt and top.
• They place the beds on the boys, mark the bowls on them and assemble the frame crown, as described above.

Longitudinal grooves

Before continuing work, we will decide what longitudinal grooves will be in the logs of the log house, or logs with which grooves to purchase. The durability and longevity of the log house depend on this more than on the cutting methods, because It is the longitudinal grooves that hold the caulking, and if they are not executed correctly, they represent the most convenient place for warping and/or the introduction of rot and pests to begin.

The corner groove (item 1 in the figure) can be cut out with any ax, incl. camping. But you need a lot of caulk in it, and when the frame shrinks and shrinks, the wings of the groove diverge, revealing layers of wood without cambium, which are less resistant to external influences. The waste of material is large. It is used for self-construction of non-residential buildings on a quick fix from waste or donated materials, for example. taiga huts made of dead wood.

The lunar groove (item 2) is often called Canadian, and the corner groove Russian, which is incorrect. Both of these grooves are Russian, because... The traditions and techniques of wooden architecture were brought to Canada and America in general by the Russian pioneers of Alaska. The lunar groove does not open during shrinkage (item 3). To cut it out (see below) you need a carpenter's ax, or, better, an ax, or, even better, an adze. The disadvantage is that caulking requires quite a lot of rough (in a puff), and to go with it you need a high-quality finishing one (in a set).

If a log house is being cut from a wild log, then so that the rudimentary crack goes as it should, and a shallow, 2-3 cm, longitudinal pioneer cut is made into the groove (marked in bright green in position 2). If the frame is made of galvanized or laminated logs with a moon groove, then it has already undergone its own shrinkage and shrinkage, and only the weight remains in the structure. Then a deep pioneer cut, through the entire sapwood to the core, is made on the arch of the log, pos. 4a. Under weight load, the groove will not diverge on its own, but will compress the arch of the lower log.

Note: Over time, cracks will appear on the outer surface of the log, but they are not dangerous - they do not violate the strength of the structure and appear when the core of the log turns into pure lignin, unsuitable for the settlement of pest germs.

You need to be very careful when choosing ready-made logs with a lunar groove (and a Finnish one, see below). The groove should fit on the lower log with its wings in a small, up to 7 mm, gap inside, pos. 4a. If the upper log sits on the lower one, somewhat softening the professional jargon, “butt on pussy,” pos. 4b, i.e. the gap is “squeezed out” onto the wings of the groove, this is an unacceptable defect - caulk will climb out of such a groove immediately, and a log house made from such logs is unlikely to last more than 10-15 years.

Finnish groove, pos. 5, is also performed without a top cut on wild logs (pos. 5a) and with a cut on rounded and glued logs, pos. 5 B. There is less moss suitable for caulking a log house the farther north you go, and flax, hemp (for tow), and especially jute, do not grow in Finland. Therefore, the Finnish groove requires a minimum of rough caulk and does not require finishing caulk at all. However, you can only choose it at a timber mill or, manually, with special tools, being a very experienced carpenter. Just in case, we provide a drawing of a Finnish groove for the most common log with a diameter of 260 mm (see figure on the right); the required accuracy is 0.25 mm.

Log house in the region

Depending on local conditions and the type of foundation, the log house can be assembled into an oblo different ways. It will come from the wild forest from the harvester and not be overly expensive.

Cutting logs into a bowl, see fig. below., or Russian (but see above) is the easiest: marking the bowl and longitudinal groove is done at the same time along the upper log, which is not processed when set aside, see fig. on right. The top log is placed in place, a line is used to mark the groove on the bottom crown. The top log is removed, the groove is selected, the top log is put back. The marking accuracy is as high as possible: a good log frame can be folded into a bowl from completely clumsy waste logs. But the durability of the log frame in the bowl is low, even if it is made from selected winter savage - water flows into the bowl and longitudinal groove. Temporary and non-residential buildings are quickly cut into the bowl; sometimes - log houses with re-laying. They are collected away from the foundation upside down (from the upper crowns to the lower ones) and then crown by crown are transferred to the foundation, see above. This is a bad way, because... either during rough assembly the frame will not fit together exactly, or if you do not give allowances for caulking, it will initially come out cracked.

Assembling the log house into the hood, i.e. into an inverted bowl (“Canadian”, and again - see above!) requires careful marking and selection of grooves (see below), because They are also marked in place, but separately, and the top log after marking is processed separately to the side. But every single log house, which is over 100 years old, is collected exclusively for the purpose.

There are several types of grooves in the upper log for cutting into the clapboard, see on the right in Fig. higher. A notch in an okhryap is also called a Russian lock, and from this point of view it is “even more russian” - choosing a groove with a flat bottom is much easier than a compass (semicircular) one. Used for non-residential buildings (baths, etc.) without internal load-bearing partitions; if on a shallow foundation, then on stable, well-bearing (from 0.7 kgf/sq. cm) non-heaving and slightly heaving soils.

Cutting into the ridge (sometimes written into an oval ridge) is carried out for the same buildings, on the contrary, on moving soils in areas where the wood is not subject to rotting. A less common method, because Water flows into the longitudinal groove, and the top log needs to be removed and processed to the side to make the groove. Cutting into the okhryap with finishing (edging) of the ends is decorative - this is how log houses are installed, the external and internal surfaces of the walls of which are hewn for finishing. Log houses for residential buildings in areas where wood is susceptible to rotting are placed in a shell with a fat tail, on moving soils, and in a shell with a fat tail and a ridge - on the same soil, but in drier places and where pests are not so common.

Marking logs for a log house

Marking grooves on logs for log houses in the burrow and in the corner is done in various ways, but in both cases it requires extreme accuracy from the master. And therefore it is considered in one section.

When marking the logs of a log house in the clapboard, the bowls are first marked (on the left in the figure; the calculated ratios for both grooves are also given there), but are not cut down yet. Attention: if you are installing a log house from a wild log, then the diameter d for marking the bowl must be taken from the bottom log, already laid in the log house, transverse to the relatively new one!

The longitudinal groove is also marked in place and along the lower, but now longitudinal, log, i.e. lying under the new one, pos. 1 on the right in Fig. It is extremely important not to skew the line (position 2), so it is either put on the hammer handle or equipped with a guide pin (see above); This technique is not disdained by experienced carpenters, who care primarily about the quality of the work, and not about showing off.

After marking, first saw down a longitudinal groove for the sample. With a chainsaw (item 3) this is not so easy: without seeing the end of the blade with the chain, you need to draw it exactly along the arc of a circle, so many craftsmen still prefer not to file the groove, but to cut it with an ax or, in extreme cases, a carpenter’s with an axe. In any case, cuts/notches are made evenly along the length so that the groove appears to be divided into squares. After this, the groove is cut out with diagonal blows with a carpenter's ax (item 4) or, better, with an ax. If the frame is made of wild logs, this is enough - the logs will fit tightly on top of each other. If the groove is on a rounded log, then they do not select it completely with an ax, but finish it clean with an adze. Now you can select the groove-bowl, lay the rough caulk and lay the log in place.

Note 6: the selection of grooves and the placement of logs in place are carried out in pairs - two short, two long. After assembling each crown, check its horizontalness and, if necessary, trim it. And don’t forget about 5-7 mm allowances for caulking!

Log cabins in a corner (corner) are assembled almost exclusively into a paw. There is no need to use methods for connecting beams (see below) for a length of material up to 12 m: round log much stronger and stiffer than a rectangular beam of that cross-sectional area.

How to mark logs for felling is shown in Fig. A paw with a notch is used if any of the sides of the log house is longer than 4.5 m. After rough filing (cutting), the notch (an additional tenon that strengthens the connection) and the groove under it are finalized with a chisel.

When planning to place a frame in a paw, be sure to consider the following: first, due to the transition of the tenon and groove under it from one side of the corner to the other on the odd and even crowns (see above), the markings must be made, respectively, straight or mirrored. Secondly, when assembling from a wild log, the smallest diameter of the logs of the previous already folded crown is taken as the base size for dividing into 8 shares in height (see figure). The task is troublesome, so often the upper and lower edges of logs for felling are removed to create a semi-edged beam of the same height. Then the same template is suitable for marking, the log house will come out stronger, warmer, and more suitable for a bathhouse. True, this will cost 4 extra logs for 3-5 crowns, so in the end, a log house made from logs into a paw ends up saving material only in length, and its consumption in cubic meters may turn out to be even more than not chopped into a log.

About the reinforcement of the log house

When dismantling old, but still quite suitable for intended use, log cabins on any side longer than 14 feet (4.27 m), it turns out that almost all of them are additionally fastened with oak or beech dowels, see fig. on right. A frame made of wild logs on dowels acquires extraordinary strength over time: it can be torn from the foundation with jacks without carriages, loaded by crane into the back of a truck and transported intact to a museum. And if you still needed to break it, then sometimes you had to use a ball, otherwise disassembly would turn into an unbearable burden.

The diameter of the dowels for fastening the log house is 40-60 mm. Length – 100-130 mm. Blind holes for dowels are drilled 1.5-2 mm after marking, processing and fitting in place of all the logs of the next crown. In the rough caulk, holes are cut for the dowels at the location, on the contrary, 3-5 mm wider. The dowels are carefully driven into the lower log using a leopard. Then the top log is placed and pressed into place with a heavy piece of wood with a handle, similar to a wooden rammer.

Log house made of timber

A timber frame is predominantly “home” - it provides, in addition to the opportunity to increase the size of the building (see above), walls that breathe more freely than logs, which is more suitable for residential premises. A Finnish or Russian light family sauna is best made from timber, see video:

Video: do-it-yourself log house using the example of a bathhouse

Longitudinal connection

The possibility of extending the beams for a log house in length is so significant that it should be considered first: if the joint of the beams comes apart, then the best thing that will follow is a complex repair. And in the worst case scenario, temporary eviction from the house and re-building of the log house.

A direct lock connection (on the left in the figure) is the most reliable mechanically and technologically simple, but it locks. It is recommended to use it if it is under an additional moisture-protecting finish, for example. siding covering. A bias lock connection does not attract moisture, but it is more difficult to perform and is less durable. The joint of the beams into an oblique lock must be reinforced with dowels fastening the crowns (see below), 0.6 m on both sides.

Straight and oblique half-timber connections (on the right in the figure) with dowels at the joint in the log house are absolutely unreliable: operational stresses can simply cut off the dowels, and the beam will suddenly turn out of the log house; especially if the joint is oblique. The author of these lines, in the days of his rather careless youth, had the opportunity to witness how a beam “shot” from a log house killed a coven-goer on the spot. Literally knocked my brains out with the splashes. The case is already painful, and then there’s the investigation – it’s still a corpse. The local district police officer sided with the workers, but an investigator for particularly important cases came from the region. And this last one of Stalin, with a circular mark from his cap on his brain, instead of all the convolutions, it was tightly sewn up where people have thoughts: nothing happens without a culprit. An accident - Trotskyist-bourgeois inventions. As it turned out, not at all for ideological reasons: in order to please the excuse of this, I beg your pardon, rubbish from the Soviet Union, the brigade had to fork out almost half of their summer earnings. There simply weren't any more available. As the men discussed this incident among themselves, the boatswain from the flagship of Peter the Great’s fleet would have listened. But enough dark lyrics, let's get back to the topic.

Connecting corners

A timber frame can also be assembled into a burl and into a corner without leaving any residue. It is not so rare to see timber log cabins: they still look more or less “original”, but more often than not, log log houses are assembled in a corner: the savings on material here are not relative.

Methods for assembling a log house from timber into a clapper are shown on the left in Fig. The half-tree connection is the simplest and least durable. It is used for small non-residential buildings (up to 4x6 m) without load-bearing partitions. It doesn’t make much difference to put such a log house in an okhlop or in a bowl, because... grooves with a flat bottom and steep walls. A fat tail connection is used if the frame is made of beams that are composite along the length; in okhryap - for log houses of residential buildings made of solid timber. Most commercial log kits are prepared for jointing.

The connections of the corners of the timber frame are shown at the top in Fig. Butt jointing of high-quality beams significantly saves material, but is fragile. Assembly on a tenon for corners is rarely used, and only for buildings no larger than about 3.5x5 m. More often, a connection on a tenon is used as an additional one when installing load-bearing partitions.

If the corner of the log house is connected end-to-end on a tenon, then it is highly advisable to use a pair (more precisely, a triple) of tenon-groove(s) of the dovetail type, see Fig. The tenon itself is made from hard, fine-grained hardwood that is resistant to external influences, e.g. oak A mirror template for marking the dovetail is not needed; it is enough to alternate the overlapping beams of the crowns of adjacent heights.

The claw connection is most often used in log houses of bathhouses and non-residential buildings; We will dwell on it in more detail below. The butt joint on the main tenon (see figure) is technologically the most difficult, but durable, suitable for residential buildings and has the most valuable quality: it allows the use of defective warped timber for the assembly of a log house. After a year of shrinkage, it levels out, and if you take it out of the log house, it will be no worse than standard. However, at least 4-6 high-quality beams should be placed in each of the log walls between the “screw” ones, i.e. it is impossible to buy completely substandard equipment for a log house on the cheap: joining the main one only allows you to put into action a defect that was accidentally inserted into the party; Under no circumstances should you install defective timber into the frame crown!

When assembling a log house, the warped timber is gradually pulled into place with hoists, while straightening it is fastened to the already laid dowels, see fig. on right. When it comes to the tenon, it is cut to fit into the groove, hammered into place with a badger and wedged, tucking the very end of the warped beam so that it fits tightly onto the bottom one. Now we need a technical break in work for 2-3 days so that the strongest internal stresses in the forcibly shoved timber are released.

A half-tree connection on a plug-in tenon is rarely used, because requires the finest, ideally even timber that is naturally dried (not in a heat chamber or microwave). More commonly used when installing partitions is a butt joint with a plug-in tenon, see fig.:

Note: about corner connections log house, see also video review below.

Video: about corner joints of timber

Partitions in a timber frame

Another important advantage of a timber frame is that it is much easier than a log frame to be partitioned inside with both load-bearing and simple planning bulkheads. Methods for inserting partitions into a timber frame are shown below in Fig. above with beam connection diagrams.

Butt-to-tenon assembly is used to install lightweight bulkheads: it does not weaken the frame itself, and the bulkhead timber may not be the same size as the one in the frame. Half-frying insert (so to speak, dovetail “half-tail”) is most suitable for load-bearing partitions of a residential building, because practically does not weaken the chopped box, but, on the contrary, strengthens it and itself adheres tightly to it. The spikes of the half-frying pan should be made mirror-like from crown to crown (shown by the red arrow).

Inserting a single partition with a frying pan ( swallowtail) weakens the frame, but will strengthen it if a box-shaped structure that holds the load well is attached: chopped canopy, summer kitchen, bathhouse at the house, etc. chopped extension on a common foundation with the house. On the 2-sided main tenon, partitions are embedded, subject to periodic operational loads; preim. thermal. For example, enclosing a kitchen, a cold entryway, a bathroom, or next to which there is a house stove. In this case, the insets on the main tenon of the crowns, starting from the 2nd, must alternate with butt joints on the insert tenon (shown by the red arrow), otherwise the frame itself will be excessively weakened.

Installation of timber frame

The main problems of a log house are the transverse displacement of the beams due to warping and the extrusion of caulk. Many timber profiles for log houses designed to avoid both have been developed (for some examples, see the figure), but there are no methods yet for installing a timber frame without reinforcing it with dowels (through dowels).

How to install a log house into a timber claw is shown in the following. rice. using the example of 150 mm timber. Marking for other standard sizes (top left) is carried out similarly: on top – square; on the side – a bevel of half the thickness. Mortise-tenon joints should alternate in a mirror image from crown to crown, bottom left. Hardwood dowels should fit into the bottom beam at 1/3 of its height; Based on this, the drilling depth limiter 5 on the right in Fig. is set. Plus an allowance of 5-7 mm for caulking, don’t forget! Diameter of dowels – 30-40 mm; the diameter of the holes for them is 1.5-2 mm smaller. It is better to hammer in the dowels with a leopard, so much less expensive oak or beech round timber will be wasted. There should be at least 120 cm from the edge of any opening to the nearest dowel.

Beams for a log house imitating a log

Sometimes, to imitate (however, not particularly convincing for a non-specialist) a timber frame under a log frame, they use a 3-edged edged beam or one re-laminated from lamellas of the same profile. This is so popular that 3-edge timber is sold under the clever name D-log. D-logs are often sold with ready-made tenons and grooves for butt joints (in the corner) or in the burl. When buying these, keep in mind that they are “mirror” and are sold as “round-flat” and “flat-round”, see fig. on right. From both of them, opposite walls are assembled in pairs (if the beams are of the same length) or adjacent crowns of neighboring heights, if the lengths of the beams are different.

Openings in a log house

A log house without windows and doors was erected only in the old days as a cruel punishment for dangerous criminals, rebels and those disliked by the authorities. If given a choice, many convicts preferred the death penalty by beheading or hanging to imprisonment. So anyone will have to make openings for windows and doors in a log house.

It is much easier to make an opening in a log house than in any other wall: it is simply cut out, see figure:

Only 3 conditions need to be met: at least 1.5 logs or at least 2.5 beams must remain at the top and bottom of the opening; the opening is cut into the upper and lower logs/beams to half their height, and from the edges of the opening to the adjacent corner, partition or nearest dowel there must be at least 1.2 m. The blocks for assembling door and window jambs do not necessarily need to be cut down or cut out from logs; in all respects it would be better to make them from ordinary edged boards. So the work of putting up a log house with your own hands does not consist only of difficulties.

Making a log frame is a difficult but fascinating process. This guide to building a log house will provide complete information and answer most questions that may arise during the work. Here you can find a point-by-point analysis of all stages of construction, nuances and little tricks. The instructions will tell you what tools you will need and introduce you to the terminology of carpenters.

Preparatory work

What tools should you get to build a log house with your own hands?

1. Carpenter's axe. It should be comfortable, not too heavy, but not light either.
2. Square.
3. Chisel.
4. Roulette.
5. Marker or simple pencil.
6. Plumb.
7. Hacksaw.
8. Brace.
9. Shovel.
10. Non-stretch cord.
11. Level.
12. A dash is a special marking tool, similar to a compass.
13. “Baba” is a birch block with two brackets on the sides, used as a spacer.
14. A chainsaw is not necessary, but it will significantly ease the work and time costs.

Carpenters use specific expressions in construction - professional language. Basic carpenter terminology:

1. A log house is a building made of logs, without floors and a roof, the basic part of the house, its height depends on the number of crowns.
2. The crown is a part in a log house, consisting of logs that form a square or rectangle. At the corners they are connected by “locks”. The crown is divided into 3 types: window sill, window, over-window. From the name it is clear where they are located.
3. The frame crown is the first crown of the log house. Protects the bottom trim from rotting.
4. The lower trim is the second crown in the log house, which is the main one. Logs are installed in it.
5. Logs are load-bearing for the floor. They strengthen the lower harness.
6. The trailing crown is the first crown above the window.
7. The top trim is a structure that serves as the basis for the roof. It consists of rafters and upper supports.
8. The butt is the part of the trunk in a log house that is located at the bottom of the tree. The part opposite to it is called the vertex.

The classic form is a log house made of round timber. This is lining logs at height. A log house made of round timber requires great professionalism; it is easier to process a log house on the ground, and use scaffolding to install it in the right place. The scaffolding needs to be made strong and comfortable. Working with a log house is dangerous, so do not neglect safety rules. In this instruction we will use the cutting method followed by re-arranging. It is much safer and more convenient, no need to work at height. Its only drawback is the increase in construction time. The structure of the log house will be carried out in stages and parts: base, middle and upper part.

You need to understand that there are no ideal logs. They change their diameter along the entire length of the trunk. Therefore, it is necessary to change the tops and butts. When making an edging, one crown will fit better against the other. The edge of the deck is trimmed on one side and the other - the result is a plane.

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“Dovetail” and “claw” – the basic part of the lock

One of the first actions to take is logging.

Depending on the size, width, length and height, you will need a different number of logs.

Dovetail connection diagram.

Mainly used pine, spruce and others conifers. Birch should never be used; it will rot quickly and is very difficult to process. After selecting the forest, you need to get rid of the bark and dry the forest.

It is necessary to select the place where construction will take place, taking into account that it should be sufficient for all parts of the building. It is necessary to mark using a non-stretch cord.

Then you need to make a non-permanent foundation - linings. Their dimensions are 1 m long and 1/3 m in diameter. We install them near the corners of the building, which will ensure the most uniform load on them. The linings must be installed level, with an error of up to 5 cm.

The next stage is making the edging. To do this, you need to choose where the future edging will be. This side should be placed up and the log should be secured with staples. Using a plumb line, we draw vertical lines, which will become the edges of the edging. Using awls, you need to pull the cord from one edge of the log to the other. This way the edge of the edging will be drawn. After that, you need to secure the log with the future edging up and, having made cuts, begin to cut the log, getting an edging. Then you need to mark the edge on the opposite side of the log and make another edge in the same way. An alternative to cuts can be cuts made with a chainsaw.

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The process of making a log house

We take a log for the frame crown and make an edging, approximately 10 cm wide. The edging will lie on the linings. Next, we will cut down “blocks” 60-75% of the log thickness, the length of which will be constantly the same and will not exceed the maximum diameter of the log. We put a point at the end of the block and from it we draw a “paw” line with an extension into the house. After that, we place the “blocks” on the “legs” of the transverse log purlins, secure the structure with brackets and check whether the size of the round timber frame has not been violated.

Connection diagram “paw with socket”.

And only after re-checking do we finally secure it with staples. Then we transfer the connecting lines to the upper log from the lower one. This must be done while maintaining parallelism. During runs, you need to cut out the middle block using the same principle of transferring lines.

Next in line is the “bottom harness”. “Doodles” are made on logs of this binding. It is necessary to make sure that the upper purlins are flat; using a lining and a level, we ensure that they are horizontal. The error should not exceed 3 cm.

The next step will be cutting out the groove. To do this, we make notches across the groove, crosswise, using an ax. We make a notch along the groove with an ax, resulting in a groove. We cut out the “paws” according to the pattern described above and lay the log on the base. We check the tightness of the fit, if necessary, remove and finish. When the log house is the right size, spread the tow evenly on the bottom log and mount the log on top. We make and install 3 transverse logs into the lower logs and make logs. We install the logs using a “woman”.

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Installation of the 1st window sill

Let's start by marking the doorway. Using a dowel, we secure the logs, having previously applied markings. Using a chisel, select a pocket for the dowel, going 1 cm deeper than the dowel itself. It is necessary to check the verticality of the corners using plumb lines. The finishing sill log should be placed on 2 dowels and no tow should be placed under it. When translating, it is necessary to maintain the equivalence of the diagonals.

We carry out installation of window crowns. The height of window openings is from 110 to 130 cm. We fasten the “short ones” of window crowns with dowels. We do the work by analogy. In order not to get confused when shifting, you need to draw a line at the corner of the log house.

We make the “cap” of the log house. We remove the upper crown crown and begin to manufacture top harness. The design includes two purlins and rafters. At the end of the runs we make blockheads, in the middle we need to make cheeks instead of blockheads. Using shims and staples, you need to ensure that the top of these purlins is horizontal. Transverse purlins should be installed, those in the middle should be equipped with a “dovetail”, others with a “claw”.

We make rafters. We take logs with a thickness of at least 15 cm and cut off 2 edges on each (they must be parallel), except for one. We cut the raw rafter into the deck using this fastener, as a result its top should be horizontal. We cut the rafters into the upper purlin, but not more than 25% of the diameter of the log. You should hook the cord along the edges of the last rafters and align all the rest. Using a chisel, make pockets for the rafter legs.

Manufacturing of rafters. Special precision is needed here; the strength of the roof depends on the rafters. The length of the rafters also depends on the angle of the roof. Presence is not allowed large quantity knots in the rafters. We cut out a tenon at the base of the rafters and stack them in pairs. We adjust the spikes and pockets. We begin relaying the rafters, while we must remember about the padding.

The technology for building a classic log house from round timber took centuries to form, and the ancient builders did it in the same way as today, but with a more primitive tool. Thanks to the use of new devices, a house made of round timber is built much faster, not inferior to time-tested models in terms of reliability and environmental friendliness. Round timber is suitable for the quick construction of prefabricated structures for houses, saunas and baths, which are worked out to the smallest detail by the Scandinavians. In the Russian outback, centuries-old traditions are kept - how to build a house from round timber yourself.

Features of round timber buildings

Solid round logs - round timber - are used as a building material for country households, dachas, houses, bathhouses and outbuildings erected using log house technology. Natural wood has long been known for its thermal insulation properties, while such walls “breathe”, which is not inherent in other materials. A tree, even when cut down, remains environmentally friendly - it naturally reacts to changes in temperature and humidity, ozonates the air in the room and creates a warm atmosphere.

Building a small structure from round timber yourself is not as difficult as it seems to those who admire perfectly even rows of well-processed logs. But if you familiarize yourself in detail with the technology of building a house from round timber with your own hands, you will get a neat log house. There are several ways to construct wooden buildings, and each involves a specific technology, and each has its own subtleties. Without studying technology phased construction When building wooden houses, you can make small mistakes that cannot be corrected at the finishing stage.

What is the difference between a log house made of profiled timber?

As a building material, round timber is harvested locally, so wooden houses made of round timber do not require the use of imported and well-dried raw materials. This is where the word “log house” comes from - cut down and made in the place where the main building material grows. A convenient way of assembly is with the so-called “cold” angle, but cutting wood with laying at a “warm” angle involves manual cutting and laying of “bowls”. But they are the ones who give the houses a special, complete form and original decorative effect - a house made of round timber photo.

With any type of masonry, inevitable minor defects- cracks and curvature of walls. Some craftsmen advise making bowls in a serial manner using a good tool. To avoid gaps between the round timber and other masonry parts, it is important to pack the insulation tightly, and after some shrinkage, duplicate this stage of work - identify the gaps and fill them with sealant. The log house is assembled from various materials, including laminated or profiled timber, or well-processed round timber, but insulation is required in any case.

Tip: You can purchase a prefabricated structure and build the house yourself - according to a diagram from numbered blanks. But usually this work is performed quickly and efficiently by professionals from the supplier company.

What kind of wood to make a log house from?

Prices for wooden houses made of round timber vary greatly, and this depends on the method of processing the logs, the thickness and properties of the wood, cladding, insulation and general modification of the structure. For a good log house you need an even high-quality building material, but give preference coniferous varieties wood Each variety has its own distinctive features:

• pine is the most accessible and widespread material, but when dried it often forms sap and small cracks;
• larch is a high-quality moisture-resistant building material that becomes stronger from moisture; it is used for lower crowns and exterior finishing;
• spruce is an excellent finishing material, well suited for internal partitions, enriches the air with healing resinous substances;
• fir is an excellent wood, but due to the fact that it is not so common and more valuable, it is rarely used for the construction of houses made of round timber.

For construction, pine, spruce and larch are used, and round timber from different types of wood is often combined. For example, larch and pine are laid on the lower rows, and spruce logs go above. It is important to treat pine with an antiseptic.

Tip: When there is enough larch in the region, this type of wood is preferable. It is not susceptible to rotting, and over time moisture makes it more durable. It’s not for nothing that the piles in Venice are made of this type of wood, and in swampy areas it is simply irreplaceable.

Round timber harvested at the construction site is the most economical method of construction wooden houses. Although laminated veneer lumber is a more durable and easy-to-install material, preference is still given to solid wood. Glued laminated timber is a guarantee of wood quality, where even knots look quite aesthetically pleasing. It is treated with impregnations to protect against:

• fungus;
• ignition;
• moisture and rot;
• damage by rodents and bugs.

However, all this inevitably affects the cost of houses made of laminated veneer lumber, so building a house from round timber will be much cheaper, and always add impregnation yourself.

Advantages of round timber houses

Round scaffolding for several centuries it has been in demand for the construction of houses and auxiliary buildings. Such structures have many advantages:

• natural material is irreplaceable in terms of environmental characteristics;
• ensures “breathing” of the house and complete cleaning of the habitat from harmful impurities in a unique microclimate;
• has rather low thermal conductivity;
• the log house is able to independently maintain a sufficient temperature balance - it is not cold in winter and not hot in summer;
• wood gives an unusually warm homely atmosphere;
• the incomparable aroma of fresh wood is beneficial for health;
• durability of the structure - the house is resistant to temperature changes, small seismic shocks and mechanical stress.

Features of working with round timber

A house made of solid round timber is a technological process thought out to the smallest detail, in which logs harvested at the installation site are used. That is why “log house” and “round timber” remain the most accurate and succinct definitions. Today, this method of building houses remains the most environmentally friendly and quite economical.

Almost all work is done by hand, but with the use of special tools, since it is otherwise impossible to fell pine trees, clear bark and knots, and build walls. In addition, the finished logs are further processed - special selections and gutters are made, and accurate measurements are needed to select logs of the same cross-section. In this case, larger logs are placed on the 5 lower rows, and thinner ones are placed above. It is desirable that visually there is not a big difference in the diameter of the round timber. It is by these signs that it is noticeable whether the log house was made by a professional or a beginner.

Log houses made of hand-processed round timber retain a natural protective layer under the bark. The masonry acquires its individual appearance due to the special method of alternating logs. Well-prepared round timber is quickly placed in finished design at home or in a bathhouse, especially when they were brought to readiness on a special woodworking machine. The more precise the processing and fitting of the material, the less it is additionally insulated.

Wooden buildings are built from different types of logs, and they have their own differences:

1. Rounded log - round timber with the simplest type of processing, when the top layer is removed, leaving the most dense base. Such wood retains the basic properties of natural material, while producing smooth and even cylindrical logs that are convenient to lay in walls.

2. Sanded log - a lightly processed tree trunk, from which only a layer of bark and knotty irregularities are removed. With this treatment, the protective layer under the bark remains intact. The strength of such a structure is very high, which is why ancient huts and towers stood for 150-200 years. The logs retained their natural shape, so the difference in the diameter of the base and top was always noticeable. It is very important to alternate them during installation.

3. Calibrated log - these are finished processed trunks that are sorted exactly by diameter or caliber. The most acceptable installation method, especially for mass woodworking and the development of an entire cottage area. In this case, smooth walls are obtained from proportionate round timber.

With any option, a well-laid log house turns out to be aesthetically pleasing and reliable, reminiscent of illustrations to Russian epics - a house made of round timber, photo.

Where to get a project for the construction of a log house from round timber

A log house made of pine is still popular in Russia, especially since the cost of a new house is relatively low, and the fashion for environmentally friendly building materials has revived ancient technologies that have been proven over the years. Coniferous wood species are common in many regions. The availability of woodworking machines simplifies the preparation of material for the installation of houses and outbuildings.

It is quite difficult to make a well-thought-out project for a house made of round timber without experience, but you can make your own adjustments to the finished drawings. There are many ready-made architectural projects - in specialized magazines, books and on websites. For individual project development, it is better to contact a professional architect.

Building a house from round timber - a project plus the appropriate suitable building material. The specialist is able to prepare it taking into account the soil characteristics in the region, summarize all the client’s wishes and even offer several options for initial sketches.

It is important to decide on the foundation or foundation wooden house:

1. In swampy areas you will need piles.

2. For a permanent two-story building on ordinary soil, a shallow strip foundation is sufficient.

3. A columnar base is suitable for a light outbuilding.

Before the installation of a wooden house begins, the area on which the foundation is marked is leveled. According to the dimensions corresponding to the design of the house, stakes are driven in a rectangle - according to this marking:

• dig a trench under the strip foundation;
• they kill their own;
• equip columnar base(one of the options).

According to the marking of the perimeter, they dig a trench up to 35-40 cm deep and approximately the same width; inside it is necessary to make a base for 2-3 walls - for greater strength.

When the trench is ready, it is leveled along the sides, and a sand base of up to 5 cm is poured onto the bottom, compacted with water. After 2-3 days you can make the foundation, and at this time it is better to start preparing the laying elements for the formwork. Cutting boards from which panels are made are suitable, and it is advisable to prepare the formwork for the weight of the foundation immediately. Filling concrete mixture under the foundation must be reinforced with metal rods.

After a few weeks, the foundation will harden, at which time the round timber for the log house is prepared. The formwork is removed from the finished foundation, and the resulting gap is filled with crushed stone and clay. Roofing felt or bitumen must be laid on the foundation for waterproofing.

Initial stage of work

Under a small round timber frame, the deepening of the foundation will be minimal, but it is still better to raise the house a little above the ground - in case of natural disasters, so that excess water does not soak the wood after shrinkage. The timber for laying the base and walls comes slightly dried, that is, natural humidity.

Wall installation is extremely simple: adjusting and laying beams on top of each other using dowels. A dowel is a wooden pin that allows you to assemble wooden houses without nails, ensuring structural reliability and natural shrinkage. It is better to prepare these devices in advance - rounded pins with a cross-section of up to 30 mm from the strongest types of wood in the area. A hole is drilled in the beams into which the dowels are driven. They are prepared a little deeper than the length of the dowel - during the shrinkage of the log house, the crowns should not move, forming cracks. The pitch between the dowels is about 2 m.

When laying a log house made of round timber, it is important to connect it correctly - an example in the video.

There are 3 ways to join timber:

1. Horizontal joint method. Laying parts of the timber on top of each other, the so-called “cold” joint, which creates a small gap from the outer to the inner edge.

2. Vertical method - placing beams on top of each other, which results in a “warm” joint, but it is more technologically complex.

3. End joining method, when the joining is made under a flat tenon on the inside, and it is also considered “warm”.

Cold corners are additionally secured with tenons, warm corners with grooves.

Holes are drilled between the logs for dowels, on which they are strung, forming a wall. The first dowels are attached near corners, horse and door openings, no less than 10 cm from the edge, and at a long interval about 1.5-2 m. Roll insulation or natural material is placed between the round timber:

• tow;
• jute.

When the frame is formed, the openings for windows and doors are finally formed. To avoid deformations, timber is inserted in the center of the finished openings.

The strongest and most even logs are selected for laying the first crown of the log house. largest diameter, capable of withstanding the total load of the structure. The lower base of the round timber must be cut off for stable placement on the foundation. In the round timber frame, an additional “bowl” fastening is formed. To do this, semicircular recesses are formed in the beams, fastening the corners, but the bowls must be neat and even.

When laying subsequent crowns, be sure to lay roll insulation in order to reduce the time spent on constantly caulking the cracks. Excess can always be removed, and with outside The insulation between the crowns is practically invisible.

The length and thickness of the round timber is selected for each crown - the higher the wall, the thinner the timber, and shorter logs will be used for the spaces between window and door openings. Assembling a log house takes about a week, but due to inexperience, most of the time is spent on adjusting the round timber. The wood is treated with an antiseptic and allowed to shrink for at least six months, then the interior finishing work is completed.

Mauerlat is the last crown of the wall on which the roof rafters of a gable roof should rest. It is better to make it with a large slope - steep gable roofs do not retain snow. Ceiling beams are also mounted on the last crown.

Building a bathhouse from a log frame is not an easy task, but the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen.

This material explains all the key points that will help in building a log bathhouse: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp heaters. And in the 21st century, the Russian bathhouse has not become some kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries-old competition with bathtubs and showers. Getting rid of many ailments, removing harmful substances from the body accumulated in everyday life in the city, giving the body complete rest - all this has been achieved by visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it is designed in general - you will find answers to many “bathroom” questions in this article.

Place and layout of the bathhouse

One of important additions at all times there was a pond with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. The special charm of the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, running out of it and plunging into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with a fire in the bathhouse, which occurred quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Today, there is no particular need to link a country bathhouse to a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the cottage.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse: distance from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fencing from outside spectators (dense bushes, tree crowns, fences, outbuildings), fire distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bathhouse are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 per bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have space for furniture (a locker for clothes, a bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (a box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need space for containers with hot and cold water, a stove and space for sun loungers.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people) a bathhouse of the following dimensions is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bathhouse of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bathhouse is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the area is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, lounge areas, etc.

In temperate and cold climate zones, it would be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and the window openings are on its western (southwestern) side. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow the premises to be illuminated with sunlight longer.

Bathhouse construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selecting and laying the foundation.
3. Creating a foundation for a stove (if necessary).
4. Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bathhouse.
5. Assembling a log bathhouse.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installing a stove, installing a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

Classic and most successful construction material for the Russian bath there was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging bath rooms, removing excess moisture outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bathhouse? As a rule, baths are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, lower crowns and flooring logs made of oak will allow you to get a truly durable bathhouse. A nuance - the oak must be cut down “in its sap” (i.e., not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4) following the first oak crown are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to stockpile wood for building a bathhouse? Round wood, wood for interior decoration, must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, i.e. the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion when selecting wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the coniferous round timber, dryness, sanded surface, absence of rotten areas and places of wood-boring beetle damage.

Bathhouse foundation

The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - preferably to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying a foundation of any type: clearing the site of debris, completely removing the top layer of soil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak ground consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bathhouse

Installed on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bathhouse, as well as at the junction of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. Bookmark depth columnar foundation- at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the site where the bathhouse was built; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, bonded concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a cross-section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made of two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth; coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and compacted.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands, you can also make foundation pillars yourself. To do this, you will need a collapsible formwork made of boards, coated on the inside with a non-hardening lubricant such as Emulsol. You need to place iron reinforcement inside the assembled formwork, then pour the concrete mixture.

To cast foundation pillars inside holes dug for them, sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing felt or thick cardboard. From the material selected for sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be thoroughly compacted. Using wire handles pre-fixed to the sliding formwork, it is lifted by swaying by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new portion of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation; they are durable, not subject to rotting, and their outer surface quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete; their underground part must be coated with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

In the spaces between the foundation pillars of the external walls of the bathhouse and the internal walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out; their thickness is sufficient - brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.

The foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level; they need to be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. During casting, metal embedments of the required shape are installed at the ends of the pillars - they are designed to fasten the bathhouse frame to the foundation.

When building a bathhouse on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking a construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Add a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).
4. Installation of formwork.
5. Laying reinforcement.
6. Pouring concrete mixture.

The reinforcement laid at the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross-section of at least 12 mm; it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifted to its middle using brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in the proportion 5:3:1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculating the volume of concrete required to pour a strip foundation is quite simple; you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m3

One of the difficulties in preparing a dry concrete mixture is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will be useful to you: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the person cast into it concrete foundation protruded 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be pierced many times bayonet shovel or using a wire probe, tap the outer side of the formwork with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait until the foundation is completely cured, approximately 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the expiration of the period allocated for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to waterproofing it and lifting it in brick rows (if lifting the bathhouse is not required, then after waterproofing we proceed to the cement screed). Will be needed following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), with a cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. Masonry mesh.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing felt (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation with bitumen mastic (for roofing felt - tar mastic). The brick is laid using a single-row ligation method: laid on a layer of roofing felt masonry mortar, on it - the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, a mortar is placed and the next brick row, but “in a spoon” (along the axis of the foundation). Each new row of brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying “in a spoon” and “in a poke” alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (mortar composition sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and bath floor

We create the foundation for the stove and assemble the sauna frame. If capital masonry of the heater is planned, it requires an independent foundation, that is, not connected to the main foundation.

The floor in the bathhouse can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By by and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bathhouse visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of a wooden bathhouse floor is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rot and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wooden covering the floor wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, and may require replacement after 6–8 years. Tile tiles would be more practical for bath flooring - they are easier to care for, they are not susceptible to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bathhouse premises must be placed at different levels: the steam room floor is 150 mm above the level of the washing room floor (we retain heat), the washing room floor is 30 mm below the floor level in the dressing room (we protect it from water).

Since installing a concrete floor covered with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of medium-fraction crushed stone, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay roofing felt on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- laying a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope towards the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it needs to be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can begin tiling work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement screed containing perlite (expanded sand). Mixture composition: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the perlite concrete was laid, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope towards the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it in indoors without drafts. Observe the proportion of water exactly!

If the base of the bathhouse is raised significantly above the ground level (from 300 mm), square-section wooden logs (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the bathhouse premises do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the supports for the logs will be the frame logs. For large sizes, additional supports for floor joists will be required; they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. Support pillars for logs it is necessary to place them on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm thick.

Important! Before forming the base to support the logs, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove and build a sewerage system.

The wood for the logs can be oak, larch or coniferous trees; the logs should be treated with tar or an antiseptic before installation.

The flooring solution in this case is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing felt with the walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm of foam can be laid between the layer of roofing felt and bulk insulation), a subfloor of 29 mm is attached to the underside of the joists edged boards. Then PVC film, foil is laid mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. Pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with fine filler on top, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we lay ceramic tiles.

Don't forget to bring the foundation for the stove to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm tongue-and-groove boards made of coniferous wood.

Important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic Construction Materials- the condition is especially relevant for a steam room!

Bath sewage system

To drain wastewater from the bathhouse you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for wastewater and pipes draining dirty water into the pit and then into the sewer.

The pit is torn off from the outside of the bathhouse foundation, and gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are inserted into it from the steam room and washing room ( metal pipes will rust quickly).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, cross-section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe(s) from the bathhouse is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drainage, containing at least 2 m3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is supplied to it from the pit, laid at a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After inserting the drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, and soil is poured on top - in a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully compact each layer.

Before leading the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bathhouse. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit; the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design unpleasant odors And cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drainage hole.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be covered with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be placed between them, and the top cover should be covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Log house, roofing and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bathhouse to order from professional performers; its production is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm tenon brackets with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, sheathing is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of final roof structure depends on roofing, with which it will overlap. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the frame (preferably the penultimate one) using tenon brackets. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the installation of a single- or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Single-pitch rafters, located at an angle, are secured with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bathhouse can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing felt, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.

Attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We make a blind area along the perimeter of the foundation: we completely remove the top layer of soil, go deeper by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the base of the bathhouse, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) and then level it. Let's lay it down expansion joints(19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, in increments of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - cover with a layer of dry cement of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bathhouse must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.

Caulking for a sauna log house

Performed to insulate a log house - sealing cracks between its logs, the material for caulking is traditionally flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made ones made from jute and flax fibers: flax batting and felts - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory-made caulking materials over natural ones is their resistance to moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made material, since it is produced in the form of a continuous strip of a given thickness and width.

Caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is carried out - on the outside and inside of the log house, and after a year - repeated caulking (the log house settles - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet; you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking shovel looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, the thickness of the handle is 30 mm, the width of the blade at the base is 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has rounded shape: handle diameter 40 mm, its length - 250 mm, striking part diameter 70 mm, length - 100 mm.

Caulking is done in two ways - “set” or “stretched”. The second way to caulk is as follows: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with the help of a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap them around the roller and drive it into the groove using a spatula and roller - with force until full confidence in filling the groove (gap).

The first method of caulking log houses is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking into 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the gap. Loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Rules for caulking:

• First, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only then along the lower edge;
• We begin caulking work from the cracks of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the cracks of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the adjacent one in the nearest wall (from right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

Under no circumstances should you caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to skew and you will have to disassemble/assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is done in a “bottom-up” direction along the perimeter of the log house.

Installing a stove

There are many design options for bathhouse stoves; they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel, or use built-in heating elements and heated by electricity; they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick stoves in bathhouses are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”; masonry seams must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the greatest efficiency of the stove. Only red brick is used for laying the stoves. The furnace firebox is led into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are located in the washing room (steam room), and the distance from them to the walls of the washing room must be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast iron or metal stove, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

Heaters installed for those who like to steam are equipped with a chamber containing stones different weights(from 1 to 5 kg). Rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the heater chamber. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, heaters differ from them by having a wider pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To get the most high temperature In the steam room, you need to add cast iron ingots to the stones in a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of steam room you will need at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron pigs.

By maintaining a distance of 40–50 mm in the furnace between its walls and the water heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and rapid heating of the water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When laying a chimney through the attic, be sure to fluff the pipe 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass closer than 150 mm near the roof sheathing and rafters (fire safety standards).

Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse

To wash one bathhouse user, at least 8 liters are required hot water. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container of water on a heater, use a gas water heater, or install an electric heater - a boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bathhouse leads from the main house - the water from such a pipeline system must be drained in winter, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or borehole by installing a submersible pump to pump it in and equipping such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bathhouse, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity, and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For the air supply you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum right away, focusing on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has long term service (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to spend time with him installation work, because it is too thick (minimum section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of a bathhouse according to fire safety standards, you need to attach it to special anchor clamps - considering the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is air supply with a VVGng copper cable attached to a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from the cable on a plastic-insulated wire; its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core VVGng cable (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched over the air to the bathhouse, the optimal cross-section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the dacha will want to power from it in future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel should only be outdoor installation. According to the rules fire safety It is prohibited to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing/steam room - only in the dressing room. Don’t joke about the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring of the bathhouse should be done only in non-flammable corrugated hose, secured with special clips, cable passage through the partitions should only be through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in a junction box, socket or lamp so that they enter there from the bottom or side, but not from the top - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal body, glass shade only. All connections internal wiring cable - only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

To work in the electrical panel and install an RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you are not one yourself!

Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bathhouse can be brick or wood, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be brick, or brick inserts single brick masonry - on the sides in contact with the furnace body.

Interior finishing is usually carried out in cases where the bathhouse itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal finishing, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, because log logs will be covered with cladding and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The rough ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing/steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the rough ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered finishing- linden, pine tongue-and-groove board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

In the bathhouse you need to install small windows (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that someone sitting on a bench can look out through them. Windows in the bathhouse are always made with double glazing, depending on the size - with a window or completely hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in bathhouses must be installed so that they open outward - for fire safety reasons. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter; the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than is needed for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when humidity increases, the sashes will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimal size the doors in the washing compartment of the bathhouse are 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor level (it’s uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep you warm). The hinges for hanging the door leaves are brass, opening into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles- wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling covering is 1100 mm.

The lying surface is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, and a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - using nails, the heads of which are recessed into the wood; from below - using screws. For fastening, choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the shelf structure are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero-grade sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to choose boards and timber without any knotty areas or with a minimum number of them.

Fire precautions

Protect the bathhouse premises from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the stove firebox, make sure the stove doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing means nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can open the doors of the steam room and washing room freely when lighting the sauna. Do not block passages or the space in front of doors and windows.

A wooden house is an aesthetic, environmentally friendly and safe housing, which is characterized by high heat and soundproofing properties, strength and reliability. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to assemble and install a log house with their own hands. It is possible to do this, but it is difficult. When installing, it is important to take into account a lot of factors, including the quality of the log, calculations of lumber and layout of the house, installation features, etc.

Please note that low-quality materials and errors in assembly will reduce the performance properties and service life of the house, lead to the appearance of rot and mold in the structure, warping of the walls and many other, no less serious, problems. But if you decide to self-construction country house or baths, this article will tell you how to make a log house.

Design and selection of materials

Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with designing a house, taking into account the characteristics of the land plot, future engineering systems and room design. The layout of a log house can be rectangular or square, as well as shaped in the form of a semicircle, hexagon, etc. Of course, the construction of the first option will be much easier.

After creating the project and calculating the estimate, lumber is carefully selected. Rounded logs are the best option for those who want to assemble a log house and build a house themselves.

Such logs are characterized by a smooth and even surface, identical sizes and diameters. This will allow installation to be carried out quickly and easily. In addition, logs that fit tightly together will provide good thermal insulation. Due to the aesthetics and naturalness of materials, a house made of round wood will harmoniously fit into environment. A wooden structure will look elegant and original. Read more about the advantages of a log house.

To get a reliable and durable home, you need to use only high-quality logs. It is desirable that the lumber be from forested regions and undergo special processing. At the MariSrub company, timber harvesting takes place in the Kirov region, the Mari El and Komi republics. These regions are famous for their good, large and moisture-resistant wood.

Raw materials and logs undergo careful selection and processing in the company’s own workshop. The wood is impregnated and processed protective equipment from the negative effects of moisture and insects. Such materials will last longer and retain their original appearance and properties.

Choose logs harvested from winter forests. Since such wood is stronger and more resistant to moisture. The presence of knots of small diameter and small natural defects is allowed on lumber. The trunks of quality materials are characterized by yellow or dark yellow color. These must be unspun logs of the same diameter and the same wood species. There should be no mechanical damage, rot or wormholes on the surface.

How to bandage a log house

After the materials have been selected and the foundation for the wooden house has been installed, the assembly of the log house begins. There are two main types of lashing or tying of logs. This is “in the cup” and “in the paw”. Both methods characterize the stability and strength of the structure of the future house, and they differ in the creation of grooves.

Cutting “into a bowl” or “into an oblo” is a traditional Russian method of assembling a log house. He assumes that the corners of the structure are connected to the release of the ends two times the diameter of the log. Because of this, lumber costs increase. The construction of such a house will cost more, but the warmth inside will remain for a long time. In addition, the corners of the building will not be negatively affected by wind and precipitation.

The “paw” method assumes that the logs are laid along the bracket, aligned along the outer edge and the excess is trimmed off from the inside. This is a colder room, so for insulation the ends are covered with boards. This is also necessary in order to protect the sawn wood from rotting. Please note that the log house needs to be hewn inside.

Tying logs “in the paw” is more modern and aesthetically pleasing appearance and less wood wasted. But to create a warm and durable home, a lot of additional work will be required. Therefore, such cutting will become a labor-intensive process.

Loghouse installation technology

• Waterproofing is laid on the horizontal surface of the poured foundation. As suitable material roofing felt For laying, the foundation is lubricated when heated and roofing felt sheets are placed on top. After drying, make another layer;
• On waterproofing layer they steal boards at least 5 centimeters thick, and lay a layer of tow or jute on top of the boards. This will enhance the thermal insulation properties, because up to 40% of the heat escapes through the floor and foundation!;
• The frame is installed on the insulation layer. As a rule, production logs are numbered. This wall kit is easy to assemble according to the attached diagram;
• Lay the crowns strictly level, row by row, and fasten them with dowels. Make sure the logs lie flat!;
• A layer of insulation, also in the form of tow or jute, is placed on each laid crown. The insulation is secured using a construction stapler;
• In addition to bandaging at the corners, the logs are connected every meter of length using spikes. Additional fastening will make the structure stable.

The final stage

After assembly, the log house is left for 0.5-1.5 years for shrinkage, and it is better to cover the structure with plastic film for waterproofing. During this period, you can sew up the floors and install rafters for the future roof. The floors are sewn up using boards with a thickness of 60 mm, which are laid on beams. The boards are connected using tenons. The ceiling can be laid in the same way.

After installing the roof, finishing work begins. First of all, this is insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls. Don't forget about engineering systems, including electricity and plumbing, ventilation and sewerage. These communications must be carried out before interior finishing begins. Moreover, the location and installation of these systems are calculated at the stage of designing the house!

Installing a log house and building a wooden house with your own hands is a complex and time-consuming process that requires knowledge and skills. Incorrect sequence and technology of work, poor quality materials and lack of experience will lead to serious problems. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to professionals!

The masters of the MariSrub company will build a turnkey wooden house, cottage or bathhouse! We offer services for creating your dream home project, assembly and installation log house, installation of the foundation and roof, arrangement of communications and finishing buildings. The company has its own workshop for the production of rounded and chopped logs. Independent production is a guarantee of careful quality control and low prices!