When the fruits are harvested, the plants send slag substances into the foliage, thereby purifying their body. There is a laying of fruit buds. Plants reduce the water content of their tissues, significantly reducing sap flow. If in summer time garden plants were in active growth, then in the fall they ripen the wood and thicken the bark on young shoots.

Plants thus prepare for wintering. But what if, suppose, a wind came up and cut off the already weakly sitting, but not yet yellowed foliage?

Or the gardener, out of inexperience, carried out a formative pruning of the crowns, and it rained all autumn - and the young shoots continued to grow. In addition, herbivorous mites, aphids, wasps, butterflies and beetles attacked the trees - always headache gardener. As a result, the plants were incorrectly or insufficiently prepared for wintering, or even turned out to be unprepared for it.

And in the spring we will see black branches beaten by frost, cracked bark, frostbites, dried fruit buds, revelry of ticks, flies, aphids, moths, butterflies and other uninvited guests.

If this happens with wild trees and bushes, for example, with a wild apple tree, sloe, mountain ash somewhere outside the site, many will not even pay attention. But on garden plot this is striking and indicates the unwillingness or inability of the owner of the garden to deal with his pets. We live in a zone of risky farming and therefore are simply obliged to carry out the entire annual cycle of activities to care for our garden.

To survive the cold

Highly important question- decrease in the intensity of sap flow in the tissues. If the wood is wet, then when water freezes at sub-zero temperatures at night, longitudinal cracks will form on it. Sometimes these cracks can penetrate very far and deep, dooming the trunks to splitting, and the plant to death. If the bark is strong, it prevents the splitting of wood, but the tender cambium cells freezing under it with the onset of heat are quickly affected by fungi - weeping areas are formed,

shafts, and the bark itself is cracking. Looking ahead, we note that any cracks and frostbites are cleared to a healthy tissue, covered with pitch and covered with burlap or matting.

But it's better not to let that happen. Potassium (K) helps to reduce sap flow. It is applied in the form of potash fertilizers or furnace ash to the root circle, that is, to the surface around the trunk, for most plants limited by the projection of the crown on

Don't let it dry out

Any living organism, including plants, in the process of life releases the so-called dissimilation products, called slags. In humans and animals, they are constantly excreted and only a small part of them is deposited in the tissues. In plants, almost all dissimilation products, with the exception of oxygen and water, are slags. A very small part of them is displayed by the root system. And the bulk is sent to the aging foliage. Moreover, it has been noticed that the loss of chlorophyll, that is, the green pigment, by foliage is just associated with the accumulation of slag substances in it.

If the foliage is dried up or beaten by mites, it turns yellow, turns brown and dries even before the plant sends a current of toxins into it. That is, the gardener is faced with the task of preserving until a certain time green color foliage. It's easy to do. Dryness is removed by regular irrigation of the crown with fine spray water. Naturally, they do this in the absence of rain and in the evening hours. Regular watering under the root also helps to preserve the leaves.

Formative pruning is carried out after the foliage has fallen. Autumn pruning is preferable, since the plant does not need to nourish and prepare a large amount of crown for wintering. 4-5 fruit buds are left on the branch. Sections more than 1 cm in diameter are covered with garden pitch, RanNet, green oil paint or minium. Normally, the branch is cut off about 5 mm from the fork - so that the remaining bark grows over the wound over time. But during autumn pruning, such a low cut contributes to the freezing of unprotected wood. Therefore, in the fall, a stump about 5 cm long is left, and in the spring it is cut closer to the fork.

Treatment of the garden with preparations

Black, gray or red spots on the foliage indicate its defeat by fungi. EU / and there are few such leaves, they are picked by hand. Otherwise, the crown is treated with fungicidal preparations.

The fight against insects and mites is carried out using special pesticide preparations. You just need to remember that insecticides - poisons for insect control - do not destroy ticks, which should be controlled with acaricides.

On labels, the classification of the drug is written in small print somewhere near the commercial name or active substance. Important: drugs with different sonorous commercial names may contain the same active ingredient.

If the pesticide preparation is of the class of insectoacaricides, then it is simultaneously effective in the fight against both insects and mites. If different insecticidal and acaricidal preparations are used, they should not be mixed. It is better to spread their application for 1-2 days.

Plants should be treated in the evening in dry weather. Green soap or other saponifier must be added to the working solution, which contributes to good wetting of surfaces. Processing should be carried out after harvesting until the first night frosts with a frequency of 1 time in 2 weeks.

Don't forget fruit trees!

I start the autumn season in the garden by clearing the foliage under the trees. Thus, I do not allow pest pupae to overwinter and continue their destructive actions in my garden.

After all the foliage is collected and placed in compost, I carefully dig up the ground under the apple trees - this will neutralize most of the pests that have already gathered to hibernate under the tree. They will die at the first frost.

I'm also removing the trash.

In no case do I compost it, but bury it away from the garden. After this necessary sanitization, I proceed to feeding the apple trees.

To apply dry fertilizer, first remove upper layer soil in the near-stem circle (1-2 cm), distribute top dressing and return the soil to its place. For 1 sq. m of soil I bring 5-6 kg of humus, wood ash.

I usually combine this top dressing with moisture-charging watering, which is essential for every garden in order to winter frosts did not pull all the moisture out of the trees. This watering is called water-charging, because it needs a lot of water. It is necessary to wet the ground by 1-1.5 m. The degree of moisture can be determined as follows: dig a hole 30 centimeters deep among the trees and take earth from its bottom. Squeeze it in the palm of your hand and see how it behaves. If during compression you get a dense lump that leaves a wet mark on the paper, you do not need to water. If the lump is dense, but leaves no trace, reduce the watering rate by 30%. If the earth is dry and does not hold a lump, get ready to water it in full.

Watering is carried out by digging furrows around the circumference of the crown. The irrigation rate, subject to the full program, is 10-15 buckets of water per 1 sq. m. For young trees, this rate is 3 buckets. So, with a little work, you will save fruit trees until spring and you can expect an excellent harvest from them!

October. Frost reminds us more and more of winter. You need to take care of trees, shrubs and other perennial crops that will remain overwintering. The well-being of these plants depends on how competently we prepare them. During this period, gardeners ask a lot of questions about how to prepare the garden for winter.. Today we have collected the most important of them.

- Do I need to dig the ground under the trees?

Legitimate question. AT last years more and more supporters of ecological farming say that digging the earth, and even with the turnover of the reservoir, only brings harm to the soil and plants. The fact is that beneficial microorganisms live in the soil, which turn organic matter into humus and make it available to plants. These microorganisms are very sensitive creatures. Some of them can only live in the upper layers of the soil, while others, on the contrary, are deeper.

With deep digging, as our ancestors used to do, we move these microorganisms into an environment alien to them, which is why they die. The capillary structure of the soil, created by plant roots and earthworms, is also disrupted.

Instead of digging the soil, agronomists recommend mulching or sodding the tree trunk. Both methods in middle lane Russia have advantages over black steam (digging), as they create protective layer for roots in case of snowless frosts. Before mulching, weeds are weeded out or mowed. If you constantly mulch the near-trunk circle, then gradually the weeds under it die.

To sod the near-trunk circle, they are sown lawn grasses, shoot bent grass, clover and others ground cover plants. You can sow them before winter or next season from spring to September.

Digging was used not only to remove weeds in the near-stem circle, but also to destroy insect pests that settled down to winter in the soil under the plants. However, remember that they winter there and beneficial insects. If you maintain the ecological balance in the garden, then beneficial insects will significantly restrain the number of pests.

If you still do not dare to do without digging, then know that doing it early does not make sense. Dig as late as possible while the soil allows. Then the pests will already be in a dormant state, and after digging they will not be able to hide in another place. Do not break the soil clods so that they freeze together with the insects that remain in them.

- When to whitewash tree trunks?

You can start in early spring. But it is better to do this when the rainy season is over, otherwise the whitewash will be washed away by precipitation. But whitewashing cannot be postponed until spring. Sunburns of the bark can be as early as January when the sun becomes very bright.

Whitewash is applied to the trunk and bases of skeletal branches, and young trees can be whitewashed entirely.

Before whitewashing, inspect the trunk well and destroy pest nests. Clean out the debris in the forks of the branches, where the larvae often accumulate. Cover all hollows with cement and sand.

There is various recipes whitewash, which, in addition to freshly slaked lime, includes clay, mullein or wood glue (thanks to them, the solution holds better) and drugs for the prevention of diseases (in low concentration). The most common composition: 2.5 kg of lime and 1.5 kg of clay or mullein per bucket of water. The solution does not have to be prepared independently. Ready-made dry or liquid whitewash on an adhesive basis is now on sale.

You should know that wrapping the trunks with a film or painting with synthetic whitewash, on the contrary, harms the tree. This leads to the fact that the bark stops breathing and after two or three years, or even earlier, begins to die.

-When is it better to prune gooseberries and currants - in spring or autumn? Can trees be pruned in autumn?

Gooseberries, currants and viburnum, as well as some ornamental shrubs pruned in the fall, as in the spring they bloom very early, literally after the snow melts. Then, along with the branches, a part of the open buds is also cut off. And this is a waste of energy for the plant.

When pruning shrubs, remove branches older than 5 years. They are cut flush with the ground. Thin out the crown of the bush, leaving only the strongest young shoots and 3-4 branches each year.

Cut off the twisted tops of branches damaged by pests and diseases.

Apple and pear trees wake up later than shrubs, and in spring we have time to cut them before bud break. In Central Russia, trees are not pruned in autumn, as wood is damaged through open wounds in winter. Only sanitary cleaning of the crown is allowed: removal of small extra branches, as well as dry and broken ones.

It is advisable to do this work in the fall in order to free up time for other things in the spring.

Cut branches must be burned, and the ashes are scattered in the near-stem circles of the same plants.

The old bark on mature trees is advised to be removed because insect pests and pathogens hibernate under it. They begin this procedure from the moment of a cold snap, when the pests have already hid for the winter. Together with the bark, they are peeled off the trees onto a film and burned. Old bark can be removed wire brush, and on young trees - a rough mitten. It is best to do this in damp weather, then the bark leaves more easily. Together with the bark, the affected wood is also removed, be sure to cover the wounds with garden pitch.

Some agronomists speak out against autumn bark peeling, believing that their natural frost protection is removed from trees. It is advised to clean the trees in the spring, before the flowers and leaves bloom.

However, practice shows that if cleaning is carried out on time (not quite late autumn), then small scratches from the brush to the cold, they manage to partially drag on. In this case, there will be no harm to the tree.

- When to bend raspberry stems and climbing roses for the winter?

It's not worth the hassle with this. With the onset of frost, the stems coarsen, become more fragile. Now you need to untie them from the support. Under its own weight, the raspberry will bend and get used to the new position. Later it needs to be bent down. Strengthen with horns, sticking them into the ground, or simply press the stems with boards. The roots must be mulched with a layer of compost, peat, straw or other organic material.

In the literature, it is advised to remove all rotten, dried fruits from trees. But if the crown is very large, how to do it?

Dry fruits of cherries, plums, black apples on trees are sources of fungal diseases, in particular monolial rot. Pathogens overwinter in these mummified fruits, and in the spring, with the onset of warm weather, they again spread to plants.

Such "dried fruits" must be collected and burned. Use a long pole for this, on which you fasten the half plastic bottle. It will turn out something like a funnel, it is convenient for her to collect “rotten”. Cut the edge of the funnel with teeth in the form of a crown to make it easier to hook the fruits. This little tool helps a lot. into compost rotten fruit don't lay down. Burn them or bury them deep in the ground.

- How to protect strawberries from the winter cold?

Mulch plantings with compost, rotted sawdust, forest leaves. Throw branches of raspberries and other shrubs on the beds to hold snow. A particularly valuable variety can be covered with spunbond, but only on top of the branches so that there is a supply of air. Otherwise, the spunbond can get wet, and then freeze with a single ice sheet, which will press the strawberries to the ground and block its air access. It is not recommended to use the film, since during the thaw period the plants under it can support.

In remontant varieties, all unripe ovaries must be removed before wintering.

You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" 2010 No. 19.

Number of impressions: 8093

Autumn preparation of the garden for the upcoming winter is extremely important. This will ensure that next year you will reap a rich harvest in it. But not everyone knows what needs to be done during this period. Consider in our article the main points for caring for fruit trees in the fall.

Stages of caring for fruit trees in the fall

tree pruning as the first step in garden care in autumn. In autumn, all weak, twisted, broken, dried branches should be removed from the trees. Inspect the trees and make sure that all the shoots are growing properly, do not interfere with each other and do not interfere with the penetration of the sun and air. All work on the formation of the crown can be done with a pruner or a saw if the branches are old and thick.

Removal of growths, lichens, moss, tops. All sores require immediate removal. You can clean them with a brush-scraper. Tops are shoots that grow from dormant buds on old branches. Sometimes they appear after damage to the tree. Removing them helps to reduce the thickening of the crown, stimulating the growth of young regular shoots.

bark protection is an indispensable part of caring for fruit trees in the fall. If you do not paint the boles of trees with lime or other white mortar, their bark can be severely cracked due to changes in night and day temperatures. Also staining protects against pests. In addition to whitewashing, wrapping the trunks with protective nets, burlap, etc. can be used.

Produce it after harvest. It increases the winter hardiness of plants, contributes to better yields next year. In autumn, you need to make organic and mineral top dressing, avoiding fresh manure and nitrogen fertilizers. After fertilization, you need to water well and mulch the soil.

Spraying with pesticides- this is also the stage of caring for trees when they autumn preparation for winter. Helps to get rid of existing diseases and pests and to prevent them. Spraying is done in late autumn, when all the leaves from the trees have already fallen.

Uprooting and removal of all dead trees. If there are dry, dead, completely hopeless trees in the garden, they need to be uprooted. First you need to remove above-ground part plants, after which a stump will remain from it. Then it is necessary to dig out skeletal roots at a distance of about half a meter from it and chop them.

Save so you don't lose!

garden care in autumn period consists of a set of works that must be carried out on time and in accordance with all the rules.

Caring for fruit trees in October consists of a thorough check of plants, pruning and removal of shoots and tops, as well as whitewashing boles.

In November, it is necessary to collect and burn fallen or cut branches and leaves. It is also recommended to dig up the soil around the trees this month. When digging, plants can be fed - add superphosphate (100 g under a tree), potash and nitrogen fertilizers (50 g under a tree).

pruning fruit trees
In autumn, sanitary pruning is carried out in the garden. It consists in removing all weak and crossing shoots from the trees, as well as broken and dried branches. This must be done because pests or pathogens may well hide on such branches.

Apples, pears, plums and other fruit trees are very convenient to cut in the fall, after harvesting. Trees can usually be pruned before the first frost. In November, it is no longer worth disturbing the plants: it is already cold enough for this.

To do everything right, carefully inspect the trees, make sure that the branches of each grow correctly and do not create obstacles for each other. Anything that interferes must be removed. You can form a tree crown using a pruner (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 26 mm) and a delimber (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 40 mm).

Removing tops on trees
Tops are strong, fattening shoots with large leaves and underdeveloped buds. Most often they form on old skeletal branches. Usually tops grow from dormant buds, starting to develop actively. Why are wolves so dangerous? They take away the strength of the tree, thicken its crown, and they never bear fruit.

Tops grow on a young fruit crop after the tree has been damaged. For example, you cut a large branch or it broke on its own. In old fruit trees, fattening shoots may appear after pruning. Also, excessive top dressing with nitrogen fertilizer and abundant watering can provoke the growth of tops.

You can get rid of tops with pruning. Her goal in this case is not only to thin out and lighten the crown of the tree, but also to form new young shoots, direct them along such a trajectory so that they do not thicken the crown. It is necessary to remove the fattening branches inside the crown on the ring. After cutting the tops, the wounds on the tree should be treated with garden pitch.

Protecting the bark of fruit trees
Sharp temperature changes during weather changes often lead to the fact that cracks (frost cracks) appear on the bark of fruit trees. These faults are quite deep and cause plants substantial harm. In addition, cracks can occur under the influence of the active sun (sunburn), strong wind or night chills. Pests can also cause cracks in the bark. fruit crops.

To protect the trees, trunks should be covered with whitewash or a special protective fiber in autumn. This is necessary in order to protect the trunk from direct sunlight. Whitewash can be prepared independently. To do this, dilute in 10 liters of water 2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg blue vitriol for disinfection and 0.1 kg of wood glue for a stronger "adhesion" to the bark.

To protect trees from damage by insects or rodents, it is necessary to use special protective nets that are wrapped around the trunk.

Autumn top dressing of fruit trees
Autumn top dressing of trees is carried out after harvesting. It is performed to improve the soil, which has been depleted over the season. In autumn, fruit trees need to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, preferably without nitrogen content (diammophoska, nitrophos, superphosphate).

Fertilizers are applied to the near-trunk circles - under the roots of trees. Foliar feeding at this time of the year is useless. Depending on which fertilizer you choose (liquid or dry), the principle of their application depends.

Liquid fertilizers are applied into special grooves made in the trunk circle around the tree. The more grooves, the better the effect.
To apply dry fertilizers, first you need to remove the top layer of soil (1-2 cm) in the near-stem circle, evenly distribute fertilizers and return the earth back.
In autumn, it is best to use the second feeding option, since in this way the fertilizers will be absorbed by the plants gradually, coming to the roots along with melted snow. Liquid formulations more effective in spring and summer.

As a dry fertilizer, superphosphate can be applied at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq.m of the trunk circle and potash fertilizers at the rate of 50 g per 1 sq.m. After fertilizing, the soil in the near-stem circle should be covered with a layer of mowed grass - it will act as mulch.

1. Pruning garden trees
2. Tree whitewashing
3. top dressing
4. watering trees

Pruning garden trees

When all the foliage has fallen and before the start of the first frosts, garden trees are pruned. First, all dry, diseased and damaged branches are removed, then those that create thickening grow inside the crown and interfere with harvesting.

If the trees have not been pruned for many years, then pruning is done in several stages. Too much pruning can lead to the death of the tree.

Annual seedlings are not pruned. Trees begin to be pruned 2-3 years after planting to form a crown.

Be sure to remove fattening, non-fruiting shoots with large leaves that interfere with the growth of the tree and take away nutrients.

After pruning, all branches are treated with garden pitch, which must be applied after each removal of the shoots. Garden var is prepared from 200 g beeswax, 100 g of rosin and 100 g of unsalted fat. Before use, the var is heated.

In the absence of var, it can be replaced with plasticine or paint.

Tree whitewashing

Whitewashing trees in autumn helps not only to fight pests, protects against diseases and sunlight, but also saves the tree from severe frosts and temperature fluctuations.

It is better to whitewash young trees with chalk and cover not only the trunk, but also the skeletal branches.

Before whitewashing, the trees are cleaned of moss and lichens, and the old bark is removed by hand. The thickness of the whitewash should be at least 2-3 mm. Whitewash solution can be bought at the store or prepared independently. The solution consists of 10 liters of water, 2 kg of lime and 200 g of copper sulfate. You can add 1 kg of clay and straw for density. You will get a clay talker that will last a long time on a tree.

Protection against pests and rodents

Fallen leaves and fruits must be removed from the garden. Trees are cleaned of old bark, which may contain nests and pest larvae. Around the trees make a deep digging of the soil.

All trees are sprayed with a 5% solution of urea and insecticides against aphids, silkworms and leafworms.

For the prevention of diseases, spraying with preparations that contain copper will help.

To protect against rodents, protective nets, roofing material, spruce or pine branches are used. It is necessary to put rags or burlap under the roofing material to avoid overheating of the tree. Such wrapping will help the trees survive the winter frosts.

top dressing

Feeding in the fall strengthens the trees and helps them survive frosts. Fertilizers are applied in October and the soil is dug deep.

Fruit trees need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in autumn. It is necessary to add 300 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate under each tree. It is better to apply these fertilizers in liquid form, so absorption by the roots occurs faster.

It is also necessary to add humus, young trees need about 30 kg, adults - 50 kg.

The use of complex mineral fertilizers facilitates tree care. Some types of such fertilizers are specially designed for autumn dressings and contain required amount vitamins and microelements.

watering trees

Watering trees in autumn is only necessary if there was little rain in summer. Excessive moisture can lead to overgrowth of branches, cracks in the bark and reduced frost resistance.

In other cases, the last watering is carried out no later than October and is at least 4 buckets per 1 sq.m.

After watering, digging and loosening are carried out.

Young trees need regular care and watering in order to make it easier for them to take root in open ground and develop properly.

We hasten to warn you that recently planted trees require special care, different from that used for already established and fruiting trees. Of course, there are similar procedures, however, the frequency and intensity of their implementation will differ.

Vegetable crops, strawberries and potatoes are cultivated in the aisles of the young garden. It is undesirable to plant bushes of currants, gooseberries, raspberries and other crops under the crown of fruit trees.

Fruit tree care

In young gardens, it is necessary to achieve an annual growth of shoots of at least 40-50 cm, and in plantations that have come into fruition - 30-35 cm. With this in mind, the doses of organic and mineral fertilizers used are set:

• If the growth is weak, then the plants are not sufficiently provided nutrients. In autumn, manure, compost, phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied to the near-stem area with a circle diameter of 2-2.5 m.
• Then the soil is dug up directly under the crowns of trees to a depth of 10-12 cm, and behind the projection of the branches - by 18-20 cm (taking into account the depth of the roots).
• Usually in young gardens, based on one near-stem area (with a circle diameter of 2-2.5 m), 25-30 kg of manure or 40-45 g of a.i. phosphoric and 50-60 g a.i. potash fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizers - 40-50 g a.i. contribute annually in two doses - in early spring (50%) and at the beginning of increased growth of shoots (50%).

The best results are achieved by those who, in early spring and 10-15 days after flowering, use slurry diluted with water (1:3), a solution of mullein (1:8), (1:15) or ammonium nitrate as top dressings for fruit trees (30-35 g per 10 liters of water). After the June shedding of the ovaries, the trees are fed with a complex of mineral fertilizers (nitrogen, phosphorus, potash). When fertilizing apple trees, fertilizers are applied not close to the stem of the tree, but into annular grooves dug along the periphery of the crown. Water the trees immediately after feeding. warm water.

Top dressing of fruit trees in areas with sandy soil

Manure, phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied annually, and nitrogen fertilizers are applied in early spring and during the period of active shoot growth. Fruit trees react positively to spraying with a weak solution of urea (50 g of urea per 10 liters of water) immediately after the leaves bloom and two weeks after flowering. Before leaf fall, but still green leaves trees are sprayed with a more concentrated solution of urea (350-400 g of urea per 10 liters of water). These measures improve the supply of plants with nutrients and suppress the development of fungal diseases.

Fruit trees are most demanding on water in spring and in the first half of summer.

During the dry season, water them more often and more abundantly. It is usually watered at the beginning of flowering, a week after flowering and after harvesting. In practice, it is enough to water fruit trees once every two to three weeks (depending on soil moisture). Frequent and excessively abundant watering is harmful both to the soil (nutrients are washed out) and to the roots (oxygen starvation appears). In the second half of summer, tree feeding is stopped, watering is limited so as not to cause prolonged growth of shoots and a decrease in winter hardiness of trees.

On flat areas, soil turfing in the aisles of the garden is carried out only after the trees enter the time of full fruiting. Before sodding in autumn, organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to the site in high doses, embedding them in deeper layers of the soil. In the spring, the surface of the site is leveled with a rake, grass mixture is sown per 1 sq. m area 3 g of fescue, 2 g of bluegrass meadow, the soil is rolled and mulched with peat, humus. Then sprinkler irrigation is carried out. The green mass of grasses is mowed at least 5-6 times during the growing season and left in place in quality.

Grasses remove many nutrients from the soil. With this in mind, when sodding the soil, fertilizing with slurry after flowering is mandatory, after two weeks - mineral fertilizers(80 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium salt and 50 g of urea per 10 liters of water). After fertilizing, water abundantly with water. In autumn, once every 2-3 years, two annular grooves are dug under the crown of a fruit tree, where 10 kg of rotted manure, 150 superphosphate and 100 g of potassium chloride are added per 1 running meter and the soil is dug up.

Autumn and winter care for apple and pear trees

In autumn (October), the stems and bases of the skeletal branches of old trees are cleaned of dead bark, whitened with lime mortar (2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). Young trees are whitewashed with a chalk solution. For the winter, the stems and bases of the skeletal branches of apple and pear trees are tightly tied against rodents with raspberry stems, young branches of cherry, hazel, and willow. For these purposes, you can use roofing felt, roofing felt and wire mesh, after tying the trunks of trees with matting or burlap. Roofing felt and roofing material are whitened from above with lime (chalk) mortar. Used nylon stockings and fiberglass are also used to tie the stem of trees for the winter.

In winter, boles and bases of skeletal branches are covered with snow. In the most warm days the snow around the trunk is compacted with a foot so that mice cannot get through. After every heavy snowfall, the trees are spudded with snow. In the spring, they make sure that the heavy snow crust does not break the branches.

Some gardeners mistakenly believe that by covering snow at the end of winter under the crowns of fruit trees with a thick layer of sawdust, straw, peat or manure, you can push the start of flowering to a later date and avoid frost damage to flowers. This technique does not bring the desired results, since it only delays the thawing of the soil, and not flowering. Buds in the crown of an apple tree bloom at an average daily air temperature in the garden of 8-9 degrees Celsius, regardless of the soil temperature in the root zone. At average daily air temperatures of 10-12 degrees Celsius, the flowering period begins. Shelter of snow under the crowns of trees with a thick layer of peat, sawdust, manure disrupts the provision of branches with water and nutrients.

Some gardeners pre-place containers (tub, barrel) with warm water under undersized trees, and in the evening before frosts, the tree and the water container are covered with a synthetic film. During the warmest hours of the day, the film is removed so that the flowers are pollinated by bees.

At the end of May, trapping belts (made of paper, burlap) are placed on the trunks and bases of the skeletal branches of fruit-bearing apple trees, where they climb. They are periodically destroyed.

Harvest

It is very important to correctly determine the removable maturity of the fruit. At this time, the growth of apples in volume stops, summer varieties acquire a characteristic color and taste, and easily come off the fruit. The fruits of summer varieties of pears are removed a little earlier before they acquire a bright color in order to prevent their overripeness. Pre-prepared for harvesting fruits garden stairs, baskets-columns lined with burlap inside, boxes and packaging material (wood chips). The fruits are removed in the morning after the dew has dried, sorted, stored in a fruit storage, cellars, cellars, where the temperature is maintained from 0 to 3 degrees Celsius, air humidity -85-90%.

Autumn is the time to take care of the condition personal plot and garden. Creation comfortable conditions overwintering for fruit trees is a top priority for gardeners. What does autumn garden maintenance include? In anticipation of the winter cold, after the leaves have completely fallen off, you can start sanitary pruning, thinning, lowering the crowns of perennial trees to 4-4.5 m. It is better to postpone detailed rejuvenating pruning until spring. Why? First, there are fears of the possibility of trees freezing. Secondly, the places of cuts of perennial branches large diameter can become a source of frost damage even when treated with garden pitch or oil paint.

In autumn, a thorough inspection is carried out, dry, damaged branches are removed. Together with the removal of diseased, dry branches, they clean the trees of fruits dried on the branches, burn nests, egg-laying pests, cut out growths, remove leaf litter, root shoots, where many types of aphids have accumulated.

Protection of fruit trees from rodents

All this must be destroyed immediately. When sections are formed with a diameter of more than 2 cm, they are covered with garden pitch. The stems of young trees along the entire length are tied with a special non-woven material or other improvised means to protect against damage by mouse-like rodents with a deepening of the strapping material into the soil by 3-5 cm.

For example, I do this. I wrap young trees with narrow bandages cut from spunbond or lutrasil. And then I begin to dig in - the ends of the bandage are dug in with earth, as if deepened.

To keep the bark from cracking

To prevent the appearance, frost crackers on the boles of fruit-bearing trees carry out their whitewashing, having previously cleaned the trunk.

Processing trees, shrubs, grapes

On stone fruits, diseases can be treated with copper preparations in autumn, for example, and on pome breeds - with Preparation 30. Treatment with Preparation 30 can be transferred to spring. Pass it over the swelling kidneys.

In the vineyard, plants are also carefully inspected after harvest. Before sheltering for the winter, be sure to take care of keeping the plants in a healthy state. If the presence of the leaf form of phylloxera was noticed, it is necessary in early spring to treat the swollen buds with Preparation 30. Unripe shoots should be cut out in the fall. If shoots affected by anthracnose are noticed, from autumn or early spring, the bushes are treated with 3% Bordeaux liquid - this is one of the universal ones that has the longest duration of protective action.

Fruit tree nutrition

In late autumn, organic, organo-mineral or mineral phosphorus-potassium products are added - superphosphate, potassium sulfate, others, 6-9 g of active substance per 1 m 2. Fertilizers are applied into holes or wells 20-30 cm deep into the zone trunk circles trees at a distance of 0.5-1 m outside the projection of the crown or for digging. On each square meter make one or two holes or wells.

For orchard most importance have fertilizers of the prolonged action. The main ones are organic and organo-mineral fertilizers. Nutrients are released from them slowly as they are decomposed by microorganisms. Part organic fertilizers(manure, composts, etc.) includes the entire set of nutrients necessary for perennial fruit and berry plants, as well as hormones, vitamins, etc. Their introduction affects the growth and yield of trees for 3-5 years, while the yield increases to 25 and even 50 percent.

The composition of organic-mineral fertilizers includes both organic (peat, humates, etc.) and mineral fertilizers.

According to the Institute of Horticulture and Viticulture, in the fourth year after the application of mixed fertilizers (organic and mineral) under a fruit-bearing apple tree (at a depth of 15-18 cm), the content of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium available for a plant in the soil at a depth of up to 60 cm is several times higher than their content in unfertilized areas of the garden. This is due to the fact that fertilizers applied locally during the autumn digging of the garden by 2/3 bayonet spades of fertilizer are localized in the application zone, creating nutrition centers within the boundaries of the main distribution of the root system of perennial plants.

In addition, in areas of a garden or vegetable garden where organo-mineral fertilizers were used when digging the soil, you can also notice that it has become looser and crumbles well. This means an improvement in its agrophysical properties.

When using fertilizers since autumn, it must be remembered that the introduction of fast-acting species can lead to the activation of growth processes in trees against the background of warm weather and enough moisture in the soil, which will cause serious damage in winter by low negative air temperatures.

For autumn garden soil dressing in late autumn (November), as a rule, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrophoska, nitroammofoska) are used, and in more early dates(October) you can apply ammonium forms of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate). At the same time, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers is crushed: in the fall, 1/3-1/2 doses are applied; in early spring, 2-3 weeks before the flowering of trees, intrasoil top dressing is used with fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers(1/2-1/3 of the main dose); in summer period with irrigation water, the remaining dose of nitrogen is applied.

Fertilizing the soil in the fall helps build resilience fruit plants to adverse conditions external environment, since the winter hardiness of trees is determined to a large extent by how much nutrients they accumulate in the course of preparing for winter and to what extent these substances turn into protective ones. A prerequisite sufficient accumulation of reserve nutrients is the optimization of the nutritional regime of fruit plants, which allows you to ensure the dynamic growth of all organs, withstand spring temperature changes, bloom profusely in winter and form a full-fledged crop.

Watering the garden

In connection with the upcoming winter cold, you need to give enough water to the trees, shrubs with water - to make the plants easier to winter.

Do I need to dig trees in the fall?

After the leaves fall, that is, when the fruit trees, shrubs "sleep", their active life is stopped, they begin the main tillage in the garden - digging. Digging the soil in the garden is necessary to maintain the optimal fine-clod structure by mixing - the top layer of soil (with the destroyed structure) moves down. At the same time, the lower layer moves to the surface.

Deep digging of the soil in autumn creates the conditions for the formation of a deep root system. This helps to increase its resistance to sharp drops in temperature in winter and significant increases in summer. The approximate depth of digging the soil in autumn, especially in the young, should be up to 30 cm - on the bayonet of a shovel, and closer to the trunk - 10-15 cm.

Increasing quantity warm winters(especially the last two years) are also felt by the residents of Kuban. Despite belonging to the southern latitudes, the Kuban people were previously familiar with snowy frosty winters with an abundance of snow and frosts down to -15 and -25 ° C. With the onset of cold weather, garden plants amicably entered into a state of deep dormancy for the whole winter period. Early February thaws affected mainly stone fruits (apricot, cherry plum, cherry, peach). Currently, warm winters contribute to a decrease in the winter hardiness of fruit crops in general. For the most common and sustainable culture in the Kuban - apple trees - offensives have become more frequent stressful situations contributing to a decrease in productivity. Stabilization of the situation provides for the hard work of gardeners in several stages.

First of all, it is important to undertake in a timely manner on the garden plot a set of agrotechnical measures available to every amateur gardener in order to minimize possible Negative consequences warm winters. To do this, in the fall, with the beginning of leaf fall, carry out digging or deep loosening (to a depth of at least 12-15 cm), which will ensure moisture saturation not only of the upper soil layer, but also of deeper horizons, improve the structure and aeration of the root layer.

When writing, the materials of the newspaper "Niva Kuban" - 2014 - No. 39 were used.

The time after harvest in late August - early September is important for the gardener. During the period, garden trees and flowers are prepared for wintering, plantings are fertilized with nutrients. If you do not perform certain actions before the onset of the first cold weather, you can be left without good harvest. To do this, you need to know how to properly care for the garden in the fall.

Autumn work on the site

In order for the growth on the trees to adequately increase, and the soil for planting to be fertile, several things need to be done. Activities are carried out after the harvest, when the last foliage has flown around. Now the plant is starting to prepare for retirement.

So gardening in autumn months rich and important. Fruitful labor favorably affects the life of trees and plants. Timely implementation of measures allows you to get a larger harvest than in the previous year.

September is a very important month for any gardener. He is rich in urgent matters for cleaning gardens, orchards and fields. The main occupation is considered

• Collection of fruits, namely pears and apples. Timely selected time is the key to long-term storage of fruits. To determine the readiness of apples, you need to conduct a small experiment. Pick a ripe-looking apple. Cut it in half with a knife if it contains white seeds or slightly Brown color, then the fruit is left on the branch. The recommended harvest time is the middle of the first month of autumn. If you stretch with the collection, then the delay will also negatively affect the fruits, as well as early harvesting. The fruits will overripe and you should not think about their long-term storage.
• In the garden, autumn time is the time for planting fruit crops, such as apricots, and all kinds can be planted. Cuttings from currants and grapes take root well before winter. Rooted young plants will be ready for planting in the spring months.
• All shrubs and trees are pruned. Dry, broken and diseased vines are removed. After that, it is imperative to spray crops from pests and diseases.
• Do not delay with the latest harvest of vegetable crops. They will not be able to ripen anymore, and green tomatoes can still be canned or pickled. Also, do not leave planting potatoes. The first frosts will negatively affect the tubers left.
• September is the perfect time to prepare planting material for growing winter crops and planting seeds in polycarbonate greenhouses or greenhouses. Also now you can plant garlic cloves, then they will give a good increase in the first days of spring.
• Those who cultivate flowers in September are very busy. They are collecting seeds, as well as planting bulbs, etc.

October is marked by the fact that at this time it is recommended:

• Replant shrubs and trees to a new place of residence. But before starting work, they wait until the plant completely sheds all foliage.
• You should also take care of the fruits of the late harvest period. They are checked, like the September fruits, so that they do not have time to overripe. Many varieties are laid to ripen.
• The next step is top dressing, simultaneously with loosening and tillage.
• Do not forget about the landing of green manure. Best time landing - the first days of October for the southern regions. For the central regions of Russia and the northern districts, spring crops no longer need to be planted, they will not have time to grow. Rye and winter wheat is the time to plant. Until it comes subzero temperature, these crops will have time to sprout well, which means they have every chance of overwintering well. If siderates were planted earlier, then October is the time when they can be dug up. Then they will have time to well overwinter and saturate the soil with organic matter.
• In areas with high acidity, you need to reduce this indicator, because not all plants can fruitfully grow and develop in such conditions. For these purposes, liming is carried out on the breasts, scattering lime or chalk.
• Flower growers continue to plant bulbs. At the first drop in air degrees, hyacinth tubers are to be planted in the ground.
• After the appearance of the first frost, the tubers are carefully uprooted, and s. They are stored in a cool place. After being installed negative temperature cover hyacinths and lilies with peat, moss, sawdust or pine spruce.

The last month of autumn requires the last effort before wintering. The southern regions have a mild climate, so most plants are not sheltered. But, this does not apply to all grape varieties, some should be insulated. The vine is removed from the trellis or supports, laid out on wooden pallets or in dug trenches in the soil. After that, wrap the vine with film or earth.

If the trees do not need insulation, they should be whitewashed with lime. It is necessary not only to protect against rodents, but also from bright spring sunlight. They can cause burns and cracks in the bark. Also, whitewashing plays the role of a kind of protection from exposure to the sun. On warm winter days, the rays tend to warm the bark, and in the evening the temperature drops, causing the tree shell to freeze. What can cause the death of seedlings.

In colder regions, fruit trees should be insulated with spruce branches or peat, and the trunk should be wrapped with burlap or other breathable material on top.

From above it is recommended to wrap a net-netting in a circle. It will not allow rodents to eat the bark in the winter cold. It is impossible to use a film or other for wrapping nonwoven fabric. It does not allow air to circulate, which provokes the decay of the bark. As a result, various fungal diseases develop. In the garden during this period, you can plant any vegetable crops. Low temperature will not allow seedlings to sprout, but they will go through a natural process of stratification. This will allow the sprouts to gain immunity and get sick less in the future period.

Flower work is coming to an end. perennial plants cut off for the winter under the base. Roses are cut to such a level that they can be covered. Bulbs are covered with spruce branches, moss or sawdust.

All work is completed. Last days set aside for cleaning up all cases and complete shelter of all trees for wintering. Thus, the autumn months are no less eventful for farmers than spring or summer. The main thing is to prepare the garden and vegetable garden for the coming winter and the future fruitful period. If you do not follow the basic procedures for rich fruiting, you can not wait.

“Hello, dear editorial staff of Smart Farming!

Thank you for such useful newspaper for us, simple and hardworking people who love the earth and plants. I want to tell you about my garden and share my experience of digging trees.

I have over 10 in my garden fruit trees. I pay a lot of attention to them, because they, like any person, require care. But not just any, but very thorough.

I dig trees every year with the advent of spring

The depth of tedding the earth is about half the bayonet of a shovel, within a radius of about 50 cm around the tree.

I also coat the lower part of the tree trunk with clay. And only after that I start whitewashing.

I think that many people make a mistake when they simply whitewash a tree - by doing this they harm the plant. The thing is that at the bottom of the tree the bark deteriorates. It must be very protected, which is achieved with the help of clay and whitewash.

In addition, I believe that trees in the spring should not only be dug in, but also fertilized.

Last spring, I buried under the humus from the leaves, which I put in a hole in the fall. And the trees immediately thanked us: there were much more apples, and they were larger (almost 2 times more than in previous years).