Once you have a plot and plan your future garden, think about its purpose and your own inclinations. Do you like to dig in the garden, work on the ground, or do you prefer walking around the neighborhood, barbecue, active outdoor games. After all, it is on this that the principle of planning the site depends, dividing it into special zones and their ratio in size. The garden should be a comfortable and pleasant place for rest and work of the whole family. And here you have to follow certain rules.

Garden layout

After the site for the garden is selected, it is necessary to correctly orient it to the cardinal points and zone it. This is important to do to create optimal conditions for the growth and fruiting of trees and shrubs. With proper arrangement of plants on the site, you can provide them with sunlight or shade, protect them from wind, drying out of the soil. In addition, the thoughtful arrangement of plants relative to the entrance to the garden, outbuildings adjacent to its territory, and the source of water supply facilitates the work of the gardener.

The layout of the garden can be regular (geometric) or landscape. The regular layout is distinguished by symmetry and the arrangement of plants along geometric lines. All trees and shrubs should be placed at a certain distance from each other according to the scheme in the form of a square, rectangle, rhombus. Paths are laid between them. A staggered landing pattern is often used.

Square, rectangular and checkerboard planting patterns are suitable for regular shaped areas. Aisles in such a garden can be compacted - planted with other plants that do not require much light. If the site is narrow and long, then it is better to arrange trees and shrubs in a rectangular pattern. It is optimal for a small area garden. With dense planting, trees are arranged in rows every 8 m. A distance of 5-6 m is left between trees. Trees with a smaller crown (plum, cherry) can be planted between trees with a large crown. Berry bushes (gooseberries, currants) are located in the aisles. The distance from one bush to another is 1.25-1.5 m. Compaction of plantations with a rectangular arrangement of fruit trees is justified. Large trees (apple trees, pears) grow slowly in the first years and gradually occupy the space allotted for them. Less overall and durable will have time to give more than one crop during this time. Aging in plums and cherries is noted by the 20-25th year, and in berry bushes - from the 14th-16th year of life. When apple and pear trees grow, plum and cherry already cease to bear fruit in full force and they are uprooted. The placement of fruit trees in a square pattern is most often used on flat areas. The distance between the trees with this approach is the same on all sides. The chess layout of fruit trees is most often used in summer cottages. Trees are placed at the corners of the triangle at an equal distance from each other (Fig. 1). This approach allows you to plant 14% more fruit trees than with conventional planting. The chess planting pattern is suitable for a garden on terraces.

Rice. 1. Chess tree planting scheme: 1 - tall trees: 2 - medium and low trees

It is important to correctly place fruit trees and shrubs in the garden in height (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Types of trees by height: 1 - dwarf; 2 - medium height; 3 - tall

Distance between seedlings

If it is planned to grow apple trees in the garden on tall rootstocks, then a distance of 6-8 m is left between the rows, and 4-6 m between the trees in them. Apple trees on semi-dwarf rootstocks take up less space. Their rows are made with a distance of 5-7 m, and 3-4 m are left between plants. Rows for apple trees on dwarf rootstocks are placed at a distance of 4-5 m from each other. They stand 1.5-2 m between trees. Rows with pears on vigorous rootstocks are made with an interval of 6-8 m. The distance between trees in a row is 4-5 m.

Cherries and plums are planted in rows with an interval of 4 m, 3 m are left between the trees. The same trees of small-sized varieties are placed every 2 m in rows with an interval of 4-5 m. Chokeberries, currants, gooseberries are planted at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other, the rows are made 2-2.5 m wide.

Gooseberry bushes can grow up to 2.5 m in diameter. When planted in rows, bushes usually do not exceed 2 m in diameter. Gooseberries can be planted between seed fruit trees, leaving a distance of 1.5-2 m to them. As soon as the crowns of the trees grow so much that they close, the gooseberries are uprooted.

Gooseberries are planted in large numbers in sparse rows. The bushes are placed at a distance of 1.4-1.5 m from each other, and 2-2.5 m are left between the rows. After 5-6 years, the gooseberry bushes grow and the rows become continuous.

To quickly get a large harvest, sometimes 2 bushes are planted in one planting hole with a distance of 20 cm. During the first 3 years, gooseberries really give a bountiful harvest. In the future, the bushes grow strongly, oppress each other and quickly age. It is already difficult to plant them, as the roots will have to be severely damaged. Therefore, planting two bushes is impractical. A more rational combined landing pattern. Plants are often planted - every 0.75 m in a row, and between the rows they keep a distance of only 1 m. After 3-4 years, the bushes are thinned through one and 1.5 m remains between them in the rows. The bushes uprooted in autumn are planted in a new place. After 1-2 years, gooseberries are thinned out in a similar way again. This approach to cultivation allows you to get a decent harvest every year, even from young plants in a small area. Blackberries and raspberries take up less space. Their rows are made 2 m wide, and the bushes are placed at intervals of 0.6-0.7 m.

The effective life expectancy for horticulture and the scheme for planting fruit and berry crops in central Russia are presented in Table 1.

Table 1. Terms of operation and planting scheme for fruit and berry crops

In a landscaping garden, plants are placed randomly, following basic principles, to provide them with optimal conditions for growth and fruiting. In such a garden, everything looks natural, there are more ornamental plants.

IN A LANDSCAPE GARDEN, FRUIT TREES ARE MOST OFTEN PLANT IN ROWS along parallel arcuate lines. Shrubs and flower beds are placed in such a way as to emphasize the beauty of the garden.

Windbreak plants can be planted on the north and east sides. They will protect more heat-loving fruit trees from strong winds. There you can place outbuildings or a residential building. However, they should not be tall and obscure the garden. One of the options for placing a garden, garden, house and outbuildings is shown in Figure 3.

Rice. 3. Layout of the site (N - north, south - south, unit of measurement - m): 1 - house, 2 - playground, 3 - toilet, 4 - shower, 5 - lawn, 6 - water tank, 7 - strawberries , 8 - vegetable crops, 9 - cherries, 10 - cherries, 11 - pears, 12 - medium-sized apple trees, 13 - grapes, 14 - gooseberries, 15 - currants, 16 - raspberries, 17 - apricots, 18 - sea buckthorn, 19 - plums , 20 - walnut, 21 - undersized apple trees, 22 - lilac

When planning a garden, the features of fruit and berry plants are taken into account - the need for light or shade, thermophilicity, resistance to drought, etc. Usually the tallest trees (apple trees, pears) are planted on the north side. In a southerly direction, shorter ones (plum, cherry), and then berry bushes (raspberries, currants, gooseberries) are placed. Next, a vegetable garden and low-growing berry plants (garden strawberries) are placed. With this approach, all plants receive enough sunlight (Fig. 4). Walnuts are located away from all fruit trees and shrubs. The best place for him is a place near the house.

Rice. 4. Illumination of trees and shrubs in the garden: 1 - with the correct arrangement of plants in height; 2 - with incorrect arrangement of plants in height

It is rational to place grapes along the fence on the south or southeast side of the site. Berry bushes can be isolated in a separate zone or planted between rows of fruit trees. On the north side, the most hardy species of fruit trees are placed. The most heat-loving trees (apricots, cherries) are planted in the center of the garden, in a place well lit and protected from the wind. You can plant them along the fence, from the side of the forest, near the wall of the house.

Trees should not create extensive shade in neighboring areas. Therefore, tall varieties are planted at a distance of 3.4-4 m from the border with an adjacent plot, medium-sized ones - at a distance of 2-2.5 m. Shorter plants are planted near the house so that they do not obscure the windows. The free space between the fence and the trees can be taken by currants, raspberries, gooseberries. They can also grow well in the shade. However, 1 m should be left from them to the fence. It is not recommended to plant any trees and shrubs at a distance of 20 cm from the border with an adjacent plot.

When planting shrubs, it must be taken into account that they grow strongly and can interfere with the growth of other plants, so young shoots must be cut down. For the same reasons, it is better to plant raspberries, sea buckthorn, and currants away from other plants, in more remote corners of the garden. Lemongrass and actinidia are recommended to be planted near the house. With this arrangement, they will be protected from the wind. Creeping apple trees are planted only in areas covered with snow in winter. Without a snow shelter, they will freeze, so you can not place them in a windy place.

Plum, on the contrary, is planted where there is no large accumulation of snow. In high snowdrifts, her bark begins to rot in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe root collar, which can lead to the death of the entire tree. Usually, an elevated place is allocated for cherries. In order for plum and cherry to be well pollinated and bear fruit, it is recommended to plant them in 2-3 copies of different varieties. Currants, sea buckthorn, and chokeberry are planted in the sunniest place.

Blackcurrant prefers moist soil (loam) and sunny, wind-sheltered places, but can also grow in light shade. With strong shading, this shrub begins to bear less fruit. The soil with pronounced acidity for growing black currant is limed.

Red and white currants grow on light soils, do not tolerate shading. They are planted only in an open area with moderate humidity. These types of currants do not tolerate lowland areas and dry soil. Loose soil of any type with moderate moisture is suitable for gooseberries. It bears fruit well even on moderately acidic soils. With a high location of groundwater and stagnant water, the plant is affected by lichens and powdery mildew. The place for this berry bush is chosen sunny.

Strawberries need not only a site with the longest possible sunlight, but also protected from the wind in winter. Strawberries grow well in one place for 3-4 years, after which they become smaller, often get sick and are affected by pests. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant it to another place.

The more different types and varieties of fruit trees and shrubs in the garden, the more likely it is to get a good harvest every year. If weather conditions are less favorable for one crop, they may be more suitable for another crop or variety. However, it is not recommended to plant apple and pear trees of summer and winter varieties nearby. It is better to select them according to close ripening groups, for example, summer and ripening in early autumn, winter and ripening in late autumn. Plants should also not be placed too close to each other. In this case, in a few years they will begin to be mutually oppressed and this will not be reflected in the best way on fruiting. In order to plan a standard plot for a garden and a vegetable garden, we suggest using the data in Table 2.

Table 2. Norms of planting area for fruit and berry crops per family of four

A total of 400 m2 is allocated for the garden on the plot. This is quite enough for a family of 3-4 people. 4 apple trees are planted in the garden, 3-4 plums and cherries, 2-3 pears, apricots and cherries, 1-2 trees are enough. Of the shrubs, black currants are most planted - 5-7 bushes. You can plant 2 bushes of red currant, gooseberry, sea buckthorn. There is a place for 100-150 strawberry bushes. If desired, you can allocate a place for grapes, chokeberry, shadberry, dog rose. In order for fresh fruits and berries to be available for the longest possible period, trees and shrubs from different groups should be planted according to their maturity.

IN DAMP AREAS WITH HIGH GROUND WATER, it is recommended to plant fruit trees and shrubs on bulk mounds. They are created by digging up the soil, which is thrown to the middle of the selected place and mixed with manure, peat, humus.

As trees and shrubs grow, the ratio of free space and plantings, as well as light and shade on the site, will change. Low-growing crops may be shaded if this is not taken into account in advance. On relief terrain, rows of fruit plants pass from one slope to another almost parallel to each other. On a hill, they converge slightly, and at the foot of the hills they widen slightly (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5. Arrangement of trees in a relief area

After determining the style of the garden and drawing up a plan, the marking of the site begins. To do this, use a tape measure, cord and eker (a stake with a wooden cross to align the corners of the rows and beds). First, zones are determined for the placement of trees and shrubs along the boundaries of the site. In the designated places, pegs are driven into the ground and, if necessary, pull the cord. Then they outline the line of the longest row, measure the distances between trees or shrubs on it, and pegs are also driven in in their place. The placement of plants along the edges of the row is determined using an eker (Fig. 6). With proper marking, all rows of trees and shrubs in the garden are rectangular, parallel and perpendicular to each other.

Video: site planning

In order to grow a garden of fruit trees on your site, you must not only decide on the place and plants, but also take into account the basic nuances, such as the planting pattern, the size of the holes, planting and caring for seedlings, which will be discussed in this article.

Garden layout

When a place was chosen for planting seedlings, it is important to decide on a scheme for planting them. It is recommended to plant trees according to four schemes, which have their own peculiarities in the arrangement of plants, make it possible to simplify the process of caring for seedlings and get a bountiful harvest.

The most common planting pattern is quadratic: it allows you to create comfortable conditions for garden care. According to this scheme, trees are planted in even rows. The distance between trees depends on their type and variety.

Important! It is also necessary to take into account the landing pattern in order to rationally use the space, therefore it is better to arrange the trees in a square plot according to a quadratic pattern.

If dwarf varieties have been selected, the optimum distance between rows will be 4 m, between trees should be left 2.5 m. Classic species that were grafted on a wild rootstock should be planted at least 3.5 m apart in rows - 5 m. Tall and vigorous species should be at a distance of 4 m, 6 m is kept between rows.

The quadratic planting pattern is suitable for trees that are not demanding on lighting, normally tolerate partial shade created by adjacent rows. Usually apple trees of different varieties are planted this way, some varieties of pears.

Chess

The chess scheme is very similar to the quadratic one, only in each square between four trees one more tree is planted. The scheme is denser, therefore it is suitable for planting medium-sized plants with a small crown. If the garden is located on a slope, then a chess pattern will be the best option for planting trees to reduce soil erosion by precipitation.
The checkerboard planting method allows the trees to receive the maximum amount of light, therefore it is suitable for light-loving plants - plums, apricots, peaches, as well as for apple and pear trees. The distance between the trees should be 4 m, between the rows it is better to leave 5 m.

Planting trees in a triangular pattern is characterized by a denser arrangement of plants with a large crown. According to the triangular scheme, all trees will be evenly standing, which will allow planting 15% more plants than according to the quadratic scheme.

To find out the optimal distance between plants, you must be guided by the rule of doubling the indicator of the maximum width of the crown of an adult tree. For example, if the crown width is 4 m, then there should be a distance of at least 8 m between plants on all sides.
Thanks to the triangular planting pattern, plants can receive the maximum amount of light. Cherry, apple, pear, plum, apricot, peach are suitable for planting with this scheme.

horizontal layout

The horizontal planting pattern is used in the case of trees located on a hilly area. Plants in this case are planted along horizontal lines, which makes it possible to reduce soil erosion processes and successfully grow seedlings on uneven areas. For fruit plantings, an elevated area is chosen, preferably in the south of the site. It is necessary to lay fruit trees in such a way that the maximum height of the trunks is directed to the north.
Thanks to this arrangement, the plants are provided with the greatest amount of light. The distance between them in this case should be at least 3 meters, between rows - at least 5. Any fruit trees are suitable for planting in a horizontal way.

garden planting

When the planting scheme has been determined, it is necessary to proceed with the selection and purchase of seedlings, which will then take root on the site.

Choice of fruit crops

In order for plants to bear fruit well, you need to be able to choose them correctly. Therefore, pay attention to the recommended growing region, soil and other conditions. There are special varieties that have been bred for each region: they easily tolerate frosty winters, different types of soil, and are less sensitive to adverse weather conditions. Consider the basic recommendations for planting trees that feel normal in mid-latitudes.

The most popular fruit plant in mid-latitudes is the apple tree. This culture is photophilous, so it is better to plant it in a well-lit area. An apple tree can grow on gray forest, soddy-podzolic soils, chernozems, which are distinguished by a light mechanical composition with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The tree does not tolerate excess moisture, so plant it on small hills, in areas with deep groundwater - at least 1.5 m deep.

Did you know? Apple orchards in the world cover 5 million hectares, and every third fruit tree in the world is an apple tree.

It is recommended to plant a pear on the south side of the site, as areas with harsh winters often cause trees to freeze. The site must be selected well protected from the wind, which is especially important in winter. Pear grows well on moist soils, groundwater should be no closer than 1 m to the soil surface. The ideal soil for pear is loamy, sandy loam or slightly podzolic.
Cherries prefer warmer regions with more sunshine and warmth. The seedling is not recommended to be planted in the lowlands, as the cherry has poor winter hardiness and often freezes. The territory must be chosen well-ventilated - in this way many tree diseases can be avoided. As for the soil, the cherry prefers fertile soils with a light mechanical composition, characterized by high air permeability. Cherries are planted on light and medium loams, which allows you to get the maximum yield.

Plum also prefers well-lit areas, so it is necessary to plant seedlings on the south side of the site, on moist clay soil with a thick fertile layer and a neutral reaction. Plum also grows normally in the northern regions, but subject to the basic recommendations for planting and caring for the plant. Apricots grow well in mid-latitudes and subtropics in the most illuminated areas with plenty of sunlight and heat. Apricot trees need to be well protected from northerly winds: they can be placed on slopes and in places that are inaccessible to cold air.
The tree is best planted in light, well-drained soils. Peaches are planted in southern regions with a lot of heat and sunshine, because they are not resistant to severe frosts that damage fruit buds. Peaches grow well on light loams with high air permeability and drainage, a prerequisite is high-quality wind protection.

How to choose and buy seedlings

It is important not only to choose the right place for planting seedlings, but also the planting material itself, in order to ensure good survival of the tree and obtain consistently high yields in the future.

Important! It is preferable to buy seedlings in nurseries, avoiding markets and other dubious places.

First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the age of the tree: it is optimal to acquire planting material of two years of age, older trees have a low survival rate. Look carefully at the root system of seedlings - it should be healthy, contain, in addition to skeletal, numerous growing roots. Do not buy trees that have knots, thickenings, growths, nodules, nodules or other dubious formations on the roots.
The minimum number of skeletal roots for a two-year-old seedling is 3, it is preferable to choose seedlings that contain more than 3. Do not buy trees that have gross mechanical damage to the roots created during the process of improper digging. The height of a two-year-old seedling should be at least 1.5 meters; healthy trees contain three lateral branches that are evenly distributed along the trunk. The bark should be smooth, not have any scratches, cracks.

Did you know? There is an interesting method for determining the duration of storage of an excavated tree: you need to hold a tree branch between your thumb and forefinger, and if the seedling is fresh, then a slight coolness will come from the tree, and if the seedling is dry–you will feel warm.

Planting hole preparation

Depending on the type of fruit tree, the planting pit is prepared in different sizes and shapes, but for almost all trees, round pits with sheer walls are best suited, which can ensure the normal development of the root system. The size of a hole dug in cultivated soil with a deep fertile layer should be about 70 cm in diameter and 70 cm deep.

If a tree is planted in a territory being developed for the first time, the size of the pit will increase three times, since it will need to be filled with a sufficient amount of nutrient mixture, which in the future will serve as a reservoir of substances necessary for the normal development of a young seedling. Heavy clay and sandy soils involve digging a hole 1 m in diameter and 1 m deep. Experienced gardeners advise digging wider and shallower holes in clayey dense soil so that water does not stagnate in their lower layers - this will have a detrimental effect on plant roots.
If planting will be done in the spring, then the pits must be dug in the autumn of the previous year, if the planting will be done in the fall, then the pit is dug in May-June. This is necessary so that the fertilizers that were applied to the soil are well mixed and ripened, that is, they form the necessary microbiological environment.

Tree planting rules

Depending on the type of fruit tree, there are rules for the size of the pit, planting time and other nuances that need to be considered:

1. apple trees they are often planted in the spring, if the seedling is not older than 2 years, so that over the summer the tree takes root, grows and survives wintering normally. Spring planting should take place in early May - late April, when the ground has already thawed and warmed up a little. If the seedling will be planted in the spring, then the pit can be prepared a week before planting. The size of the pit will depend on the soil: if it is quite fertile, then 60 cm in depth and in diameter will be enough, if the soil is poor, then the depth should be at least 70 cm, and the diameter should be 80 cm. Seedlings of 3-4 years of age can be planted in autumn , since the already strong tree is not afraid of winter frosts. Planting is best done in early October, so that the roots have time to strengthen before winter. In autumn, it is recommended to plant young trees in the southern regions with fertile soil. A hole is dug the same size as in the case of planting in the spring, but it is prepared a month before planting.
   
2. pear can be planted both in spring and autumn. Spring planting (at the end of April) excludes the possibility of death of the tree from frost. It is better to prepare the pit in advance, in the fall of the previous year. During this time, the soil will shrink, and after planting the seedling, the root neck will not deepen much, which guarantees the normal survival of the plant. The hole should be about a meter wide and about 50 cm deep. If the soil is poor, then the hole is dug deeper and filled with several buckets of fertile soil. As in the case of an apple tree, a pear is planted in the southern regions in autumn, which allows the seedling to take root normally. In addition, a pear that was planted in the fall and survived the winter will be stronger and more resistant to future frosts. It is better to dig a hole in the spring, the size of the hole in depth is 50 cm, the diameter is 1 m, and planting is carried out in early October.
   
3. Apricot in the spring it is recommended to plant before the buds awaken on the seedling - in mid-April. The pit is prepared in autumn, its minimum size is 70 cm deep and 70 cm in diameter. The preparation of the pit for the autumn landing should be carried out in a month, or even two. A width of 1 m is required, and a depth of 80 cm. The optimal time for landing is the beginning of October.
   
4. Cherry often planted in spring (end of April), especially in the middle lane and northern regions, since over the summer the seedling grows, becomes stronger and normally tolerates wintering. The pit should be dug in advance, preferably in the fall, its depth should be at least 50 cm, diameter - 80 cm. In autumn, planting cherries is practiced only in the southern regions, sometimes in the middle lane. The optimal time for planting is the end of September, so that before the first frost hits, the tree gets stronger. The pit is prepared in the spring, the size is the same as in the case of landing in the spring.
   
5. Peach is a heat-loving plant, therefore, even in the southern regions, planting is carried out in the spring (end of April). The pit is prepared in advance, best of all in the fall, the size of the pit should be at least 70 cm deep and 1 m in diameter.
   
6. prefers spring planting in the middle lane and in the northern regions; in the southern regions, planting seedlings in the autumn is most often practiced. In spring, plums are planted at the end of April in a prepared hole. It is better to prepare a pit in the fall, add organic fertilizers to it, which will overheat over a sufficiently long period of time and create ideal conditions for a young seedling. The pit should be at least 60 cm deep and 70 cm wide, or more. In autumn, at the beginning of October, the plum is planted in a hole that was dug in the spring and fertilized with organic matter, the size of the hole is 60x70 cm.
   

Did you know?Unlike other fruit trees, plums cannot be found in nature in the wild. Plum was obtained by crossing blackthorn and cherry plum more than 2 thousand years ago.

How to care for newly planted trees

When the seedlings are planted in the soil, at first, special attention should be paid to regular watering. The frequency of watering depends on weather conditions and the regularity of rainfall. The minimum amount of water to be poured under one tree is 20 liters at a time. You need to water 1 time in 2-4 weeks. It is recommended to check the soil for moisture with a stick: if the surface of the soil is 20 cm dry, it's time to water the seedling.

The place around the seedling should be mulched - this is necessary in order to create a favorable environment for the root system, retain moisture in the summer, and slow down the growth of weed vegetation. Mulch is poured in a fairly thick layer (15 cm) at a distance of 1-2 meters from the trunk - sawdust, straw are used. The near-stem circle is regularly loosened and rid of weeds. It is especially important to loosen the soil after watering, when it is compacted from the water. Loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 5 cm, so as not to damage the young roots.
Be sure a young tree for the winter should be insulated so that it normally endures frosts. Warming the trunk will also help protect the bark from rodent raids, which gnaw it in winter, which leads to the death of the seedling. The procedure is carried out in early November, tying the lower part of the trunk with spruce branches at least 70 cm in height. Whitewashing of trees is carried out 2 times a year - in autumn and spring. Autumn whitewashing is done on a sunny, not rainy day at the end of September, and spring whitewashing should be carried out during a period of slight frosts, when the first insects have not yet appeared.

Important!Very young seedlings, which still have a greenish, unformed bark, cannot be whitewashed, as this can lead to disruption of metabolic processes.

For whitewashing, a mixture of slaked lime is prepared - 2 kg, copper sulfate - 0.2 g, water - 10 liters. The bark is pre-prepared, clearing diseased areas, moss. You can whiten using a coloring brush. Whitewashing is carried out from the bottom of the trunk, gradually rising to the skeletal branches. Skeletal branches are whitened 30 cm from the branching point.

How to decorate a new garden

To make a garden with fruit trees even more beautiful, you can add additional decor elements, plant some plants and lay paths, so let's look at each item in more detail.

How to lay paths in the garden

The easiest way is to equip the path from the backfill with the base. To do this, they dig a ditch 10 cm deep, lay it out with geotextiles, and reinforce the sides with curb tape. Pebbles or crushed stone are poured into the prepared area. A more complex option is the construction of a durable coating in the form of solid flood paths.

The base of such a coating is concrete, on which decorative elements in the form of natural stone, paving slabs are laid. The path is recommended to be laid on a slight elevation so that it is 5 cm higher than the rest of the soil level, which will save it from the effects of rainwater and soil sediment.

What plants can be planted in the garden

Flowers are the most popular garden decoration. They are able to complement other plants and create a complete picture. Popular annual flowers for planting in the garden include marigolds, asters, cosmos, zinnias, and petunias. Among perennials, bells, daisies, carnations, forget-me-nots, pansies can be distinguished.

Additional decor elements

As additional decorative elements in the garden, wooden fences can be used to enclose small flower beds, garden figurines, and decorative stone. Along the edges of the paths, you can install decorative lanterns. You can make decorations with your own hands from wood or already unnecessary household items - dishes, furniture, plastic bottles.

Thus, equipping a garden of fruit trees is not an easy task, but if you follow the basic rules and follow the recommendations that are described in detail in our article, this will help you avoid many common mistakes.

Video: garden plot planning rules

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The layout of the fruit and berry garden is a responsible task, the solution of which will depend on the future supply of the family with tasty and varied fruits and berries. Therefore, when planning a site, you need (as the people say) to hurry slowly.

Garden layout. © woodcroft orchard Content:

Preparatory work

When planning a land plot, it is necessary to allocate an open sunny place for a garden with a high standing of groundwater. It is impossible to lay a garden in a lowland, where cold streams of air and water will roll down during the spring flood. After an external examination of the land allocated for the garden, determine and write down in your diary a list of preparatory work.

• Clear the area of ​​old stumps, wild shrubs, stones and other debris.
• Plow the area deep or dig with the turnover of the formation.
• Water to encourage weeds to emerge. After seedlings, carry out deep cultivation and level the area.
• In parallel, give the soil to the nearest chemical laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, its chemical composition. This is necessary for the subsequent care of the garden: fertilization, irrigation, and other agrotechnical measures.
• According to the results of the analysis (according to the recommendations), apply the recommended doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components for the final autumn processing. Without such data, it is not advisable to fertilize the site. It is better to apply fertilizers and other components directly to the planting pit (mineral fertilizers, humus or biohumus, slaked lime, biological products from pests and diseases).

Zoning when planning garden and berry plantings

On a separate sheet of your garden diary, draw a diagram of the layout of the garden. The garden can be located in front of the house, to the side or behind, but the trees and bushes should be located from north to south for better illumination and have three zones. They can be located one after another or divided into three separate sections located at different ends of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cottage.

• If the zoning is joint, then a garden is laid in the first zone, the plants of which will not shade the cultures of the second zone, and in the morning they will receive their share of the sun.
• In the second zone, it is better to place berries. Their height is up to 1.5 meters. The morning shadow from the bushes will not harm the plants of the third zone.
• In the third zone, the actual orchard will be planted. From the neighbors, it should be at a distance of 2.5-3.0 m, so as not to obscure their site.

On the pages of the garden diary, write down the names and a brief description of fruit and berry crops, and in the diagram indicate their placement on the plot area under the numbers.

Plan your future garden so that the plants do not interfere with each other and do not block the light. © pickleshlee

Berry layout

When breaking down the berry in the diagram, immediately consider the nature of the plants. So, blackcurrant grows quietly surrounded by other neighbors, but sea buckthorn and viburnum are rather quarrelsome with neighbors. Therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn can be used as a green hedge, and viburnum, hawthorn - in a landscape decoration of a recreation area. In solitary plantings of mowed lawns, they look great.

Some owners believe that berry growers are generally better placed along the boundaries of the site. In this case, part of the land is released for other crops or zones (recreation, sports, etc.). Such planning is suitable if the site is not fenced with a green hedge or the berry bushes themselves can serve this purpose with their features (thorny, dense, etc.).

The density of planting berries is very important. It is a natural regulator of the optimal development of plants, their resistance to diseases and the formation of crops.

• Raspberries are planted in dense rows, 0.5 m apart and 1.0-1.5 meters between rows. Growing, raspberries occupy the aisles, the former aisles are freed from raspberries and become temporary paths. By pruning overgrowth, the culture is interchanged, returning after 2-4 years to its original place.
• Ioshta, black and golden currants are planted at a distance between bushes of at least 1.5 m, and red through a meter. Large bushes will shade each other, thorns of certain gooseberry varieties will completely limit access to berries. Honeysuckle and shadberry, when used as a green hedge, are planted after 1.0-1.5 meters (and even thicker), and in the berry bush at a distance of up to 2 meters.

The number of certain berry bushes is very important. Think over and on the diagram plan in advance the quantity of each type and variety so that you can provide your family with fresh berries and make preparations for the winter. For a family of 4-5 people, there will be enough 20 raspberry bushes, 3-4 bushes of all types of currants and gooseberries, ioshta, shadberry and honeysuckle. Leave some room for exotic newcomers to come into your line of sight over time. A properly planned berry tree grows normally and bears fruit within 7-12 years, and then gradually rejuvenates or the bushes are transferred to another place.

Planting berry bushes. © Thomas Generazio

Orchard layout

On the next free page of the garden diary, draw a layout of fruit crops. Conditionally allocate 4 square meters for each crop. m of total area under one tree. Do not thicken the landings. Trees will grow and begin to interfere, and even oppress each other. Planting pits should be in a row at a distance of 4.0-4.5 m. Leave aisles at least 2.5-3.0 m. Pay attention to the types of crops. So, today most farms are switching to columnar forms of apple and pear trees - the main horticultural crops in the dacha economy. In terms of habit, these species are much smaller, and the yield is almost equal to tall crops. Columnar forms are easier to care for, they are resistant to disease, less damaged by frost.

For an average family, 1-2 trees of each type are enough. Early, middle and late varieties should be present in the garden in order to have fresh fruits throughout the warm season and also prepare processed ones for the winter. From garden crops, it is enough to have 2 cherries (early and late). Instead of a medium cherry, plant 2 cherries. They form a crop after an early sweet cherry. You need 1 quince (later you can graft another species or other varieties on it), 2-3 plums, including one marabelle.

Enough 1-2 apricots of frost-resistant varieties. 2-3 apple trees, which over time through grafting can be turned into 6-8 varieties of different ripening periods. Don't forget to leave room for exotics. Be sure to plant the nuts separately. Almost nothing grows under the crown of this crop. If you like hazel, set aside the first row for it so that taller trees do not deprive it of the sun with their shade. 11-12 fruit trees will eventually grow into 18-20 varieties of all kinds.

In order for the garden to serve for a long time and not get sick, it is imperative to use zoned varieties. They are more resistant to diseases, pests, weather changes, bear fruit longer. You can get acquainted with varieties and varieties for your region, up to the district, and their characteristics in catalogs and other literature. When buying seedlings, be sure to contact the experts. Remember! A garden planted with low-quality seedlings will add work and care, but will not please you with the harvest and quality of the fruits.

General Approaches to Planting a Garden

Lay the garden in the fall, that is, dig planting pits according to your scheme, prepare near each that fertilizer mixture that is necessary for the condition of the soil.

Planting hole preparation

In autumn, you can only prepare a planting hole of approximate size, since the final version will be determined by the size of the root system, which depends on the age of the purchased seedling. The preliminary size of the planting pit is approximately 60x60 for 2-year-old seedlings, for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm and finalized when planting the seedling in the pit.

Soil preparation

Near each hole, mix the top layer of soil with humus, peat. In the spring, before planting a seedling, add a glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska to this mixture. Mix well.

Fruit tree seedlings and berry bushes are best purchased from trusted manufacturers. © mainetoday

Purchase and preparation of seedlings

Planting seedlings is best done in the spring. During the growing season, the seedlings will get stronger, the root system will strengthen. A young tree adapts to a new location during the warm spring-summer-autumn period.

Do not rush to buy seedlings from individual unfamiliar sellers, especially along the roads leading to the dacha. It is better to purchase seedlings in farms that grow them or in nurseries. There is more confidence here that you will acquire the desired zoned variety of the garden or berry crop you need.

Carefully inspect the selected seedling. If you find dried roots, a crooked stem, cracks in the bark or drops of gum, refuse to buy. Remember! No assurances from the seller will return the lost time.

Rules for planting seedlings

Soak the seedlings in a root or other growth stimulant 1-2 days before planting. Prepare a container of clay talker with the addition of root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides suitable for tank mixes may be used.

About 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings, pour some of the soil mixture into the hole with a cone. During this week, the cone will settle, and the planted seedling will be correctly placed in the pit. Dip the prepared seedling into a mash, insert it into the pit, straightening the root along the cone so that there are no creases upwards, and fill 2/3 of the pit with soil mixture. Fill the bucket with water. After soaking, pour in the rest of the potting mix or soil. Drive in a stake and secure the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling, swaying under the gusts of wind, will break off the small roots that provide the plant with the soil.

Important nuances of landing

When planting, be sure to follow the correct depth of the root collar. When it is deepened, the tree can dry out for no reason in 5-10 years (especially on heavy soils). On light sandy loamy soils (especially in the south), it is better to deepen the root collar somewhat into the soil (8-10 cm), "hiding" it from the upper drying layer. In seedlings that form adventitious roots or shoots (figs, currants, plums, apple trees), deepening does not interfere with the normal development of the tree. Seedlings of these crops quickly rebuild the root system, often on insufficiently moist soils.

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be at the level of the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher (no more). In grafted seedlings, the grafting site is located 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse the root neck and graft and deepen the planting to the grafting site. In this case, the root neck is deeply buried in the soil and the tree dies early.

If you have correctly identified the root neck and planted the seedling so that it rises 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. We compact the soil around the planting. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, we make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 more buckets of water. Together with the soaking water, the seedling will also be pulled into the soil. Make sure that the root collar remains 2-3 cm above the soil. If necessary, top up the soil after watering and mulch with a small layer of fine mulch (peat or humus, sawdust). If live seedlings are purchased, the planting is done correctly, in 2-3 weeks your garden will turn green with the first young leaves.

Apple trees on trellises. © starkbros

How to determine the root neck

1. In a young seedling, it is good to wipe the lower part of the trunk and the beginning of the root with a wet cloth. The root collar is defined as a transition from greenish (trunk) to light brown (root zone).
2. In older seedlings (3-4 years old), we wipe the lower part of the trunk with a wet rag and, after the wet zone dries, carefully scrape off the bark with a knife at the site of an inconspicuous expansion of the trunk into the root. If at the site of expansion the scraped color of the young subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root zone. The place of transition of one color to another is the root collar.
3. In some seedlings, the place of departure from the trunk of the upper lateral roots is clearly visible. This is the root collar. The place of origin of the roots should remain above the level of the landing pit.

What not to do when planting seedlings

• It is impossible to use semi-rotted manure when planting, only humus mixed with soil.
• You can not often water the seedlings with small norms of water. They only dry out the soil in the planting hole.
• You can not water the seedlings with cold water (from an artesian).
• It is impossible to fertilize plants in the first year after planting, and especially with nitrogen fertilizers.
• After planting, it is impossible to mulch the near-trunk circle with a large layer of mulch. In the event of prolonged rains, water accumulated in the mulch will cause the young bark to rot and the plant to die. A thick layer of mulch is applied in the fall, which will protect the soil from freezing and the death of seedlings from low temperatures.

What to do when planting seedlings

• Whiten young seedlings with a solution of chalk and clay with the addition of biological products from diseases and pests or a solution of copper sulfate.
• Insulate the trunk with several layers of burlap, lutrasil, spandbond, paper and other materials.
• From hares and other rodents, protect the trunk with a mesh chain-link or spruce branches, deepening the latter into the soil by 5-10 cm.
• After each sufficiently large snowfall, trample the snow around the trunk, which will protect the latter from being eaten by mice.

The layout of the garden and vegetable garden will help to solve many problems for its competent arrangement and obtaining the required amount of crop. Inexperienced summer residents and gardeners, having planted their own comfortable garden, complain that there is not the required abundance of fruits and fruits that they counted on.

Option 3D layout of a plot of 15 acres with the location of the garden, house and vegetable garden

The layout of the site is considered the most important stage in its arrangement. The layout of the summer cottage and garden plot directly begins with a preliminary study of the soil where garden and garden crops are to be grown, and the climatic conditions that affect the number of fruits. If the soil is excessively clayey or with sand impurities, then you need to additionally add peat to it, feed it with black soil, other substances and fertilizers, on which the proper nutrition of the roots will directly depend.

In the climate, the fundamental factor that negatively affects the fruiting process is:

• excess moisture;
• frosty winters;
• spring frosts.

Therefore, it is important to select trees and crops that are most suitable for a particular region.

Sketch and layout of the garden, garden and the entire plot of 10 acres

Important aspects are the layout of the garden and the competent selection of trees. The most frost-resistant trees are locally bred. They perfectly adapt to any climatic conditions and give a good result, if not annually, then after a year. The hardiest trees are cherries, pears, apples, and plums. Apricots and peaches are considered the least resistant to frost and high humidity.

Cherry does not tolerate closely located groundwater at all, and if reclamation is not carried out in time, then in just a few years it will dry up.

Layout of the arrangement of a small suburban area

There are a variety of gardens, therefore, when choosing the required assortment of trees and plants, it is necessary to take into account their future productivity.

An example of planning a vegetable garden and a garden on a small plot

To determine how many trees you need to plant on a garden plot, you must first mark up the suburban area, taking into account the existing buildings. This must be done because each object casts a shadow, so when planting bushes, trees and other crops in the shade of buildings, they will not bear fruit, but will be drawn into the natural light area. This will continue until the top of the plants is slightly above the barrier that restricts access to natural light.

Therefore, on the developed plan, it is necessary to indicate the height of each existing building and the cardinal points. It should be noted that the shadow, most likely, will be located from the east and west, somewhat narrowing towards the south. It is necessary to shade the places on the diagram where the shadow is more than half a day. These places are not suitable for planting plants.

In shady places, you can lay decorative paths, equip lawns, a pond, make flower beds. In order for the trees to provide a good harvest, the shade area must be excluded from the planting plan.

How to combine a garden and a vegetable garden

The layout of the garden and the garden is considered to be a rather important stage, because it is necessary to correctly distribute the usable area. starts with the idea of ​​​​the direct arrangement of the beds, which must be perfect. If you need a garden and garden layout, then you need to make two separate schemes that will display a summer cottage at different times of the year. Thus, it is possible to achieve a more competent distribution of free space. When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account not only the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe summer cottage itself, but also take into account the fact that planted crops can grow over time.

Drawing and layout of a plot of 6 acres with a combination of a garden and a vegetable garden

In addition, it is worth remembering that the planting of vegetable and horticultural crops should not be done too tightly. It is necessary to consider where the garden will be located on the equipped summer cottage. Experienced gardeners recommend planting all crops on the south side, however, if this is not possible, then it is worth choosing sunny areas, but with some periods of shade.

Be sure to take into account the rules for planting each plant, its compatibility with neighboring crops, the need for natural sunlight and fertilizer, the frequency of watering.

It is carried out taking into account the periods of fruiting of all available trees and shrubs. It is best to place all crops in the garden and in the garden, taking into account the periods of their full ripening. The scheme for planting all crops in the country must certainly be planned very competently. In order to think everything over correctly, you need to prepare a photo of your dacha with adjacent land.

Read also

Arrangement of a terrace in the country

The scheme of planting plants in the garden and vegetable garden on a plot of 20 acres

Initially, on the diagram, you need to draw the location of the house, and if the site is not yet fully equipped, then you need to indicate its estimated location and size. It is necessary to designate not only the size of the garden and garden itself, but also their distance from the boundaries of a certain area. Thinking over the design of the cottage, you can diversify the site with flowers. This will give it a beautiful decorative look, help you look at your garden and vegetable garden in a completely new way.

What can be models for planning a garden and a vegetable garden

There may be a variety of options for planning a garden and a vegetable garden, but with each of them it is necessary to take into account:

• the number of marked acres;
• feature of the soil of the garden;
• the required number of equipped beds.

Layout and placement of beds in a garden of 4 acres

Ideal for those who prefer the arrangement of a rather unpretentious garden and vegetable garden, which implies the use of predominantly ornamental crops and green spaces. Often such a model is a circle shape. Inside it should be exquisite beautiful flowers and other plants in order to fully show all their beauty.

Outside, a certain design is created, consisting of green spaces. It is best if these are low shrubs so that you can fully demonstrate the beauty of the planted flowers. If the dimensions of the summer cottage are quite impressive, then fruit trees are planted behind a semicircle, the number of which directly depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe proposed model. A rather interesting option is a rectangular shape.

Drawing and layout of the site

The peculiarity of this model implies that in this case it is necessary to plan the garden and the garden together. Often, the design of such a suburban area involves the use of a square shape. The peculiarity of such a plot is that it is possible to plant as many beds of vegetables as the size of the plot allows.

Near garden crops, you can place a few berry bushes. For the best view of the summer cottage, it costs extra, but place them a little far from all other crops. A feature of this layout is that with all the abundance of species, the original form remains.

Sketch and layout of landings on a plot of 5 acres

An interesting and unusual option is the free planning of the available land. The shape and size of such a plot depend directly on the available acres. When developing such a scheme, one must take into account whether it is possible to combine several different crops with fruit trees.

If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bland for the garden remains quite small, then it is best to use the method of arranging vertical beds. Tall vegetables and legumes will feel great on grids and various supports. When organizing a garden, it is necessary to take into account the compatibility of crops, the need for well-equipped natural lighting. In addition, it is worth considering that you do not need to plant old trees for. In this case, young seedlings are quite suitable.

How to make the best choice for arranging an orchard

Given various kinds of landscape tricks, you can competently equip your plot of land, taking into account all the norms and requirements. To organize the site with your own hands, you must first correctly select the place for arranging the future orchard, select the types and varieties of trees, while taking into account the existing natural and climatic conditions in the country.

When equipping an orchard and a vegetable garden, you need to remember that the depth of groundwater should be no more than 1.5 m. Otherwise, to significantly lower the level of groundwater, you will have to make certain channels or lay drainage pipes. Trees located on a land plot with high groundwater will:

• grow poorly;
• give a rather low yield;
• do not tolerate winter frosts;
• be subject to fungal diseases.

Project and layout of the garden on a plot of 10 acres

Plants located in the country will help determine the acidity of the earth. Areas where cereals and legumes thrive are ideal for gardening. If there is a lot of sorrel on the ground in the country house, this means that the soil is quite acidic, which can adversely affect the normal fruiting of trees. You can reduce the acidity of the soil by adding lime to it. The program for arranging a garden and vegetable garden implies a preliminary study of the relief of the site.

The south side is considered the best option for arranging the garden, and the north side is the worst.

It is not necessary to place the garden on the lowest point of the land, since it is there that cold air will be concentrated, which can cause serious damage to many plants. When deciding on the location of the garden, it is necessary to take into account the orientation of the cardinal points.

Nowadays, an increasing number of people are resorting to growing vegetables in and on summer cottages.

After all, only if we have received crops from our beds, we can have no doubts about the quality of the cultivated greens, root and vegetable crops.

And the cost of purchased vegetables is quite high, especially in winter.

The layout of the orchard begins with preparatory work.

In order for all vegetation to grow comfortably, it must be taken into account that the most successful places are suitable for it according to its preferences for soil and lighting. Then you need to analyze in detail the entire site, this will help to rationally place the objects of landscape style, it includes both completed constructions and plantings, as well as future ones.

Drawing in your mind a picture of your future site, you need to create a draft project and not miss a single subtlety. It is recommended to immediately measure the dimensions of the site, which is planned for fruit vegetation, estimating 4 square meters per tree. sites, and this is minimal.

It is better to choose a flat or slightly sloping area for the garden. You should choose a place for the garden, located from the south, and in the absence of such an opportunity, you need to choose another, most importantly sunny and not particularly shaded. It is required to analyze the land, for trees in comfortable fertile soils with normal acidity (chernozem or sandy loam).

You should also take into account the depth of groundwater, because this can adversely affect the root system of vegetation. You can make a list of the names of crops that you would like to grow in the yard, study in detail the conditions for their growth to find out if they get along. Plan the number of ridges, think about whether you need someone's help or is it feasible to cope with the landings on your own.

Distribution of garden plantings into separate zones

On a blank sheet of your gardener's diary, you need to sketch out the assumption of the garden. It can be front, side or back relative to the house, only trees and shrubs should grow from the north side to the south for better lighting and mean three parts.

The location of the zones should go one after the other or be divided into three divided territories, which will be located at different ends of the common area of ​​the site:

• First. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs in this variation of zoning. In the first zone we lay a garden, its vegetation will not obscure the representatives of the second part, and in the mornings it will be endowed with its share of the sun.
• In the next zone, it is more successful to place berries, their height does not exceed 1.5 meters. The shadow emanating from the bushes in the morning will not interfere with the vegetation of the third part.
• In the part of the third order, we plant fruit. From the previous one, it should be in the interval of about 3 m, so that there is no threat of their shading.

In the diary, you can record the names and the main nature of the fruit and berry vegetation, and on a schematic plan indicate their location in the garden with numbers.

Berry layout

When breaking up a berry bush on a plot, one should schematically take into account the characteristics of the vegetation. Blackcurrant grows normally surrounded by the rest of the vegetation, and sea buckthorn and viburnum do not get along with their neighbors, therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn bushes can perfectly replace a green fence, and viburnum, hawthorn will decorate the landscape in a leisure corner.

Some gardeners prefer to place berries around the perimeter of the site. In this form, part of the territory is freed up for other crops or for leisure areas, sports activities, etc. This layout is suitable if the land is not fenced with a green fence, or the bushes with berries themselves will enclose the site with their location.

The thickening of the berry plantings is especially important. After all, it acts as a regulator of natural origin for the optimal development of vegetation, its strength to diseases and the formation of the crop:

• Raspberries are seated in tight rows, at intervals of half a meter from each other and at intervals of a meter and a half in rows. Raspberry vegetation, growing, fills the aisles, the former aisles are freed from overgrowth and serve as non-permanent paths. They change the places of crops by cutting off the shoots, returning, after three years, to the former site of growth.
• Yoshta and black currant are planted at intervals of at least one and a half meters, and red at meter intervals. Large bushy vegetation will shade each other, the spines of some varietal gooseberry species will completely block access to the fruits.

In the case of using honeysuckle and shadberry, like a green fence, the bushes are planted at intervals of a meter and a half, it can be even thicker, and in the berry bush at intervals of up to 2 meters.

The number of one or another berry vegetation is especially important. It is good to think ahead and schematically plan the number of each species and varietal type so that it is possible to please the family with fresh harvests of berries in the summer and to close jars of fragrant jam for winter storage.

A well-planned berry plot grows normally and bears fruit for about 11 years, and in the future it should be gradually rejuvenated or the plants transferred to another territory. Pruning fruit trees and crown formation is also an important activity. To do this, you need to know the characteristics of varietal species of fruit trees.

Setting up an orchard

On the next page of the diary, we draw a diagram with the placement of fruit crops, allocating conditionally 4 sq. m. for each copy. from the common area. No need to thicken the landings. Plants will grow and become a hindrance to each other.

Let the landing pits be located in a row at intervals of four meters. We pay attention to the types of cultivated vegetation. Currently, a large number of farms are switching to the formats of apple and pear trees in the form of columns - the fundamental horticultural vegetation in the household plot.

In terms of dimensions, these species are smaller, and yields are equal to high cultivated vegetation. For these types and care is easier, they are resistant to ailments, the most resistant in cold weather. Early, middle and late varietal species should grow in order to be able to enjoy fresh delicacies all season and so that it is possible to process and store grown fruits for the winter.

Of the garden cultivated vegetation, two sweet cherries (early and late) are quite enough. Instead of its average varietal species, it is more successful to plant two cherries.

They give out crops after early cherries. Let there be one quince (later it will be possible to graft a different species or other varietal types on it), two or three plums, including marabelle. A couple of apricots are enough, which are frost-resistant varietal species. Three apple trees, in the future, through grafting, they can be turned into 6 or 8 varietal species of different ripening periods. It is necessary to save a place for new representatives of vegetation.

In order for the garden to please with an abundance of harvests for a long period and not to fall ill, it is necessary to use zoned varietal species. They are more resistant to diseases, harmful insects, changes in weather conditions, the fruiting period is longer.

You can get acquainted with varietal species and subspecies for the region and their characters in the special literature. When purchasing seedlings, you should contact the experts. A garden filled with low-quality vegetation will add work and trouble, but will not please you with the quality and quantity of fruits.

How to build beautiful ridges and correctly place them in your garden

Formats

They can be all kinds, only the dimensions of the site can limit their size. Ridges can be built straight or of various geometries, or curly. You can provide a fence, or you can do without it, in height they can be low or high.

High ridges are now more in demand. Of these, the most successful are those that reach a height of 40 cm. Reasons:

• These beds are warm. On the lower layer of materials that are rapidly composted (branches, rags, paper, cardboard), a layer of materials is laid, they are composted more slowly (leaves, weeds, paper waste). Then it should be spilled with water, and covered with soil. In the process of decay, the ridge will begin to emit heat, and the crops will ripen more actively.
• The sun's rays warm the soil more actively. But irrigation also needs to be done more often.
• If you want to protect your upcoming crop from moles and mice, you should place a plaster mesh under the lower layer.
• Such ridges do not need to be dug. After all, they are not dug, but made.
• It is possible to harvest twice a season. You can also have time to grow, for example, lettuce, before planting the main crop.

Dimension

As usual, the ridges are from half a meter to a meter wide. These dimensions are successful in processing, because care is simplified. And the length can not be limited. According to the Mitlider method, it is proposed to build completely narrow ridges of 45 cm, and the passages, on the contrary, are wider at 90 cm, while the length of the ridges should not exceed 9 meters. Gardeners using this technique speak positively about it.

The vegetation is well ventilated. With its growth, accessibility to it remains especially comfortable, and the main thing is that it receives more solar energy, and even in the cloudy summer season, the fruits ripen perfectly. Yields in this variation increase.

In the ridges arranged by this species, you can plant a variety of crops: tomato, cucumber, pepper, etc.

Location

As usual, the ridges are arranged from the south side in a northerly direction. This allows all vegetation to warm up evenly. And in the morning and evening, when the sun's rays illuminate the ridges from the sidewalls, they do not particularly shade each other. It happens that the site is endowed with a slope. How to properly arrange the ridges in this version?

It is more successful to place them across the slope, then the moisture will be evenly distributed. It happens that the site is completely uneven, in which case it is advised to place the ridges on a slope on the south side, and garden vegetation from the north direction.

layout

For her literacy, you need to consider:

• The yield of one or another varietal type of vegetables per square meter. After all, then it will be possible to calculate the required landing site for each species.
• Vegetation compatibility. Without it, it will not be possible to fulfill the plan qualitatively.
• If the site is too sloping, it is necessary to build terraces and place ridge boxes on them.
• Plan the planting of crops so that the taller vegetation is on the north side of the site. So lower species will not grow in shading.

Common missteps of a novice gardener:

• Overly dense plantings: it is necessary to provide seedlings with thinning in due time, because if the vegetation is crowded, this will not have a beneficial effect on its growth, yields and resistance to harmful insects and ailments. Gaps between rows and vegetation in a row (planting patterns) are provided for each of the crops separately.
• The lack of work on the elimination of weeds in time will lead to a decline in the yield and its quality. Because weed grass, already resistant and actively growing, deprives a significant proportion of the nutritional components of the crop.
• Vegetable ridges in shading: negatively affects the quality of vegetation, some crops accumulate nitrate-containing components, growing in shading. Let the light on the ridges in the garden be present for at least 6 hours daily. In particular, vegetation uses the light of the afternoon. So, it’s lucky if at this time they are not in the shade.
• Overdose of dressings: overfed vegetable vegetation is much more prone to ailments. Excessive feeding with nitrogenous additives leads to fattening of the culture, as a result, fruiting suffers and nitrates accumulate in vegetables. It is imperative that strict adherence to the terms and norms of adding dressings is necessary, taking into account the preferences of the culture.
• Sowing seeds too early: sowing seeds in unheated soil destroys germination. Each vegetation has its own periods, this also applies to planting. If the spring period turned out to be cool and wet, it is better to postpone sowing for a week and expect friendly shoots a little later.
• Illiterate selection of vegetable representatives: warm-loving, capricious vegetables (