Pipes, especially metal ones, which “live” in old houses, often become capricious and leak. As you understand, this is a kind of signal that it’s time to change communications. They usually try to combine such a step with repairs, and this is logical. But what to do when repairs for financial or other reasons are not included in your immediate plans? Naturally, try to correct the situation, at least temporarily - before the repairs begin or the plumber arrives, so that the house does not remain dehydrated. You may be surprised, but you can fix a pipe leak under pressure with your own hands. Want to know how?!

Broken threaded connection

So, how to seal a leak in a pressure pipe at the attachment points of the system elements?

The simplest way, which often helps, by the way: simply tighten the fitting using a special wrench.

Failure of pipes knocks us out of our usual rhythm of life

Didn't help, do you see water still leaking from the connection? This means that the pull-up is not enough, the tow has worn out. What to do under such circumstances? On the contrary, unscrew the fitting - halfway. Remove the old tow, clean the thread, wind a new one. Just act with lightning speed, since pressure in the pipes can cause a rupture of the connection, and, consequently, a flood.

It happens that neither tightening nor changing the tow can save the fitting. This happens if the thread of a part is damaged. Then you can’t do without an “operation” - you need to cut out the squeegee and install a new one. It is better to entrust this matter to a specialized service, and while it is driving, wrap the leak area with damp rubber, tightening the “bandage” tightly. If you feel confident in the role of a plumber, then change it yourself, just don’t forget to turn off the water or ask the housing office to do it.

Worth paying attention! Leak in place threaded connection can be prevented if you liberally (in several layers) paint the places of transitions and slopes.

Most often, a leak is caused by a failure of the fitting.

Pipe repair

Now let’s look at how to eliminate a leak in a water pipe, and before that, the causes of such a disaster. Most often, a crack/breakdown in engineering networks Abundant accumulation of condensate on pipes, as well as current wandering through structures, contribute to this. All this happens due to inadequate care of communications. But if an oversight led to a breakdown, then by and large, the reason no longer matters - it needs to be repaired, right?

Ready to roll up your sleeves? Then let's begin!

Clamps

The simplest and reliable option restoring the functionality of the water supply system - use a special clamp, which is sold in abundance on construction markets and plumbing stores. Naturally, it is worth purchasing them in advance, and the supply should be of clamps of different sizes in order to patch up any pipe in the house. They are cheap, so you definitely won’t go bankrupt buying emergency plumbing supplies.

The clamp is a rubberized pad with a pair of rods consisting of a pair of screws. For self-repair- there’s no better way to think of it, and professionals often use this “magic wand” to “revive” even the oldest pipes, at least until they are completely replaced.

There are no stocks, but there are plenty of different ones building materials? Make the clamp yourself. Cut a strip out of thick metal and a pad out of rubber. Arm yourself with washers, nuts, bolts and “fix” the pipe with your own hands.

Worth paying attention! The clamp is suitable for stopping leaks due to damage occupying no more than 30% of the pipe circumference.

This is what the “wound” on the pipe looks like after putting on the clamp

Self-tapping screws

Homeowner's Assistant No. 1 - self-tapping screw, also useful for flood protection. But only if the crack does not exceed 4 mm in size.

So, how to fix a leak in a pressure pipe using a self-tapping screw? Find a galvanized, unused screw and press washer for it ( perfect option- aircraft part equipped with rubber gasket). Screw the screw into the pipe and forget about the damage for a while (up to 3 years).

Cement

If the hole is small and the water is not flowing like a fountain, then you can try cementing the pipe. In addition to cement, you will also need a bandage (regular - medical).

If possible, the water should be turned off, otherwise the solution may not harden. Dilute cement with water in a container and mix the mixture thoroughly. Cut the bandage into pieces of about 25 cm (make sure there is enough material to wrap the pipe twice). Soak the pieces in the cement mixture and wrap them around the pipe one by one. Coat the top of the “dressing” generously with the remaining solution. Leave the “cocoon” alone for a day, allowing it to dry thoroughly. The top of the patch can even be painted. For some time, the design will help you avoid serious network repairs.

Emergency glue

Manufacturers offer ready-made composition, or rather, the components that need to be mixed to make pipe glue. In construction language, the mixture is called emergency metal polymer. The kit includes metal dust mixed with resin and a hardener. Before repairing the pipe, you just need to mix them thoroughly, and the glue is ready.

A couple of spoons of glue and the leak is fixed

Repairing a plastic pipeline

Such networks rarely leak; if this happens, then, as a rule, the culprit of the accident is the fitting. Sometimes it is enough to tighten it, and this can be done without turning off the water - directly under pressure. However, do not overtighten the part, otherwise the plastic will burst, and you will be guaranteed trouble.

If a pipe does burst, you will have to work hard, but even in this case you can do everything yourself, although you will have to run around looking for tools and equipment.

So, you have to replace the fragment plastic construction, which gave a leak. If the pipes are polypropylene, then classical soldering will be sufficient, which can be done using a polyfuse (a special model of soldering iron). Is your network made of metal-plastic? Then you will have to make inserts on the threads. However, sometimes - with minor damage, sometimes wrapping with insulating tape is enough (just choose fresh one so that the material stretches and does not tear) or processing special glue(polyurethane, epoxy, thermal composition).

Worth paying attention! Couldn't find a soldering iron? Use the so-called “handicraft welding”. The technology involves sealing the crack with the material of the pipeline itself. To do this, apply a hot nail to the hole (with proper skill, you can heat the leak using a regular lighter). The material will become pliable, so filling the hole will not be difficult.

Regular electrical tape can save your home from flooding

Fixing leaks in the heating system

The heating network has its own differences: there is always hot water in the pipes, so cracks must be repaired using a special technology. For the work, imagine, you only need a bandage and salt (regular salt).

So, you simply bandage the hole like a wound, generously sprinkling each layer with salt. What's the "focus"? Salt, getting into the cracks, simply clogs them - better than any other glue. Sometimes, when the cracks are completely microscopic, it is enough to simply sprinkle the “wound” with salt.

If the leak is significant, use the same clamp or extinguish special service, having previously inserted a wood/fabric plug into the hole so that the battery does not turn into a fountain.

If you can’t solve the problem yourself, but the water remains, urgently call the experts

So you have learned how to fix leaking pipes under pressure, which means that your home is not in danger of flooding.

Video: ways to fix water leaks

Despite the fact that cast iron pipes as part of intra-house engineering systems considered obsolete compared to plastic pipes, today you can still find cast iron pipelines in sewerage installations.

As a rule, residents of houses where cast iron pipelines for draining domestic wastewater operate regularly face the problem of leaks. The fact that the pipes are leaking can be determined by the foul odor from the bathroom or basement where communications take place.

Cast iron sewer pipes can leak for a variety of reasons. Leaks are localized at joints and connections between pipes, at areas where the pipeline turns at an angle, as well as at connections with engineering equipment(collectors, observation windows) and sanitary products(toilet, bath, shower).

The easiest way to eliminate such leaks is to use available materials and tools. The situation is more complicated when the leak occurs due to a formed fistula or crack. In this case, you will have to seal the area, and if repairs are not practical, do a complete or partial replacement cast iron pipeline.

Reasons for leaking cast iron pipes, depending on location:

• natural wear and tear, exceeding the maximum service life (relevant for old houses);
• metal corrosion upon contact with air;
• errors in pipeline design (formation ice jam inside most often due to the close location to the soil freezing line during underground installation);
• installation errors, insufficient sealing of joints;
• careless operation, impacts and other rough mechanical impacts;
• factory defect (rare).

Attention! Even a small damage from which water flows drop by drop requires prompt measures to restore the integrity of the pipe. Unlike cast iron batteries and heating risers, holes and cracks in sewer pipes do not tend to close spontaneously. If left to its own devices, the problem will get worse over time and may end in an emergency.

Repair methods

You can repair a leaking sewer pipe different ways, the choice of which depends on the location of the leak, the size of the hole or crack.

01-12-2012: Lyudmila

Please advise, cast iron sewer, last 9th floor, the pipe going to the roof has longitudinal cracks from which condensate oozes (leaks), especially in winter. The pipe is thickly painted oil paint, I covered it with something before. How to put this in order?

01-12-2012: Doctor Lom

Judging by the fact that you do not complain about an unpleasant odor, the cracks do not open completely and therefore you can simply cover the cracks with silicone plumbing sealant. However, before applying the sealant, the surface of the pipe should be thoroughly dried; the sealant will not stick to a wet surface, however, this is true for any repair method.
In general, I added to the list of possible defects for cast iron pipes longitudinal cracks and methods for sealing them, see other methods in the article.

16-03-2013: Natasha

Please tell me, we have a sewer pipe in our kitchen, it doesn’t leak, but there is an unpleasant smell from it. Can you tell me how to insulate it so that there is no smell?

16-03-2013: Doctor Lom

If the joints of the riser pipes are not sealed, then during normal operation of the sewerage they may not leak, but in this case there are no obstacles for sewer gases. Those. you still need to check the tightness of the joints or simply cover them with sanitary silicone, since the joints are dry.

08-05-2013: MiSchum

Hello. I have the following problem.
Joint of a cast iron outlet into a riser with a socket + plastic toilet tee 100 through rubber cuff.
The plumbers installed the whole thing, but didn’t apply any silicone or anything, didn’t clean the pipe in the socket, and ended up flooding the neighbors.
Everything is complicated by the fact that when draining the sewer from the neighbors, water constantly flows into our sewer outlet, i.e. It is impossible to dry it before joining it with a plastic tee.
While I smeared it good layer ordinary plumbing sealant onto the rubber seal on all sides, and pressed the plastic tee back. It doesn’t seem to be leaking, but I’ve read that such a connection is not durable and will leak again sooner or later.
Now I’m thinking of sealing the inside of the connection (I can get there through the tee) with a hydraulic seal, as well as the outside of the connection. How suitable is this method?
Thank you.

08-05-2013: Doctor Lom

As a rule, if the leak has been eliminated, no additional sealing is required. Silicone is a relatively new material and I can’t say anything for sure about its reliability, but based on personal experience use, silicone will last at least 20 years.
However, any additional sealing is an increase in reliability; you can use any methods of additional sealing in particular and those indicated by you.

17-05-2013: Olga

Hello! How can I hermetically seal a 3x3cm hole in the lower part of the plug of a cast iron sewer pipe under the toilet? What is the best way to seal it completely? It is impossible to dry the hole.

17-05-2013: Doctor Lom

Without seeing the situation, it is difficult to say anything definite. Usually, if it is not possible to dry the hole, then a clamp is installed or a wooden chop is clogged. If things are really bad and nothing works, then try using a hydraulic seal. Although hydraulic seals are intended primarily for working with concrete and stone, if the seal is made correctly, then after gaining strength it will reliably adhere to the metal.

19-06-2013: Irina

Hello! I have a large hole in a cast iron drain, a pipe in the form of an elbow and a hole with outside, was done out of necessity by housing office workers, and now it’s leaking. I live on the 7th floor of an 8-story building brick house Built in 1959. They offer me to wrap it with a rubber bandage and wire, but they themselves say that this is temporary. But I want to make repairs, can you suggest a more thorough one?

19-06-2013: Doctor Lom

From capital - only complete replacement knee

09-07-2013: Ruslan

Hello! I am an experienced plumber myself and not long ago I encountered such a problem. The 110 plastic one needed to be plugged, but leave a sealed 35 mm hole for the drainage pump hose. My question is how would you do this, thanks in advance!

09-07-2013: Doctor Lom

I would first insert a 110x50 adapter, and a suitable rubber cuff into the adapter. In cramped conditions, you can choose an adapter that takes up minimal space.

05-11-2013: Alexander

Hello! I have such a problem.. The sewer pipe in the toilet, there is no plug on it, which is held on by two bolts!! There is nothing like it in stores anywhere! They recommended a plastic one with a cuff, but they all have a diameter of 110. It doesn’t fit. What can I do? ???I wrapped it with plywood with a gasket, but the smell is still not pleasant

05-11-2013: Doctor Lom

Judging by your description, the cover on the revision is missing. Try sealing the gaps between the hatch and the plywood with silicone or even covering it with plasticine.

04-05-2014: Turgenev

It is difficult and painstaking to seal a crack with cottage cheese, but to cover it with chalk, and then liquid glass soak. When it dries, you need to bake it blowtorch, liquid glass will turn to stone and will serve happily ever after. The color will remain white.
Better yet, change your apartment; a hole in the sewer is unfortunate.

28-07-2014: Ivan

Good day!
We have the same problem. When drilling a through hole with a hammer drill (12-bit drill), the cast-iron sewer riser was pierced. The pipe (diameter 100cm) is covered with plasterboard with ceramic tiles on it. The pipe itself is treated with resin and paint on top (the old one is peeling off). The hole from the impact happened exactly in the place where the ventilation grille was, i.e. there is access to the damage. It was decided to quickly buy cold welding “White Titan”, after sanding it a little around (you know, when it’s gushing out of a hole, you’re not very prepared), applied the mixture, kneaded according to the instructions, and pressed it with a clamp. The next day I decided to remove the clamp and see how this welding “works”. In general, without a clamp, water began to ooze from under it. Then, after thinking a little, I decided to do the following. I cut out a square of approximately 7x7 cm with a chisel from sheet metal (previously bending it), and also cut out the same square from rubber about 3 mm thick and purchased two clamps (101-121 mm) for installation drainpipes. Having made a new portion of welding (having previously removed the old one, quite easily), I covered the hole, covered everything on top with a sandwich made of a 7x7 square of rubber and steel and tied it together with two clamps. Now I’m sitting and wondering if a crack could have gone down the pipe along the resin, for example, maybe a puddle had already gathered there. Probably to ease my conscience, one of these days I’ll carefully remove the bottom tile and check for the presence of liquid/moisture underneath the casing. Are the measures taken above sufficient, and how long will they last? Will the hole be undermined by water and corrosion over time? They write that the natural loss of cast iron from corrosion is 0.1 mm per year.

28-07-2014: Doctor Lom

If the breakdown does not result in a crack in the pipe, then the measures you take should be sufficient for a long time. That's just cold welding, if water constantly gets into the hole, it is unlikely to set properly. In general, the clamp can last for 5 or 15 years, but sometimes you will have to check its condition. As for the loss of cast iron by 0.1 mm per year, this is the first time I’ve heard of it. In 50 years, there would be nothing left of cast iron pipes, but in some places they last for 100 years.

28-07-2014: Ivan

Yes, the hole was wet, since the pipe is located vertically, and there are 8 more floors on top. But the welding instructions indicated the possibility of working under water. Immediately under the clamp, I wrapped the pipe toilet paper, using it as a leak indicator. While it's dry.

04-08-2014: Angelina

Hello,
The sewer pipe is cracked. The depth (height) of the crack is 11 cm. It cracked in the wide part of the pipe, which connects (enters) the pipe coming from the top floor; I see it coming out of the ceiling. The case takes place on the 2nd (3rd) floor of a 12-storey brick building built in 1955. The solid pipe does not go all the way to the floor. Approximately 110 cm from the floor it fits into a wider “neck”, and under the “neck” there is a “hatch” with four large bolts. Turned off hot water for prevention, after turning it on and the current heat, it was very hot in the toilet, the pipe began to leak during peak hours in the morning and evening. Puddles form on the floor, there is no obvious smell now, but when it was very hot there was a little. Because It’s very hot in the toilet, the 2 cm plywood shelves are wet through and through, and have time to dry overnight. The plumber came and said that they would caulk it.
Please advise us to agree to caulking, or insist on replacement. And how can I check the correctness of the work?

04-08-2014: Doctor Lom

Agree to caulking, if this does not eliminate the leak, then insist on replacement. Monitoring the work is simple - if the leak is eliminated, then the work has been completed correctly. More details in the article “Rules for sewerage installation”.

15-11-2014: Nika

good afternoon, I have a problem: the tee in the toilet has cracked 1 mm, length 1.5 cm, how can I repair it? Is it possible to wrap it with liquid glass and cement with a bandage? No problem, how to dilute cement and liquid glass, please advise how best

15-11-2014: Doctor Lom

Judging by your description, the crack is really small. If water does not seep through the crack, then you can simply wrap the pipe with a bandage, after pouring cement onto the bandage or onto the crack and moisten the bandage a little. If you use liquid glass, you do not need to wet the bandage; the role of water in this case will be performed by liquid glass. I won’t tell you any special proportions, you will see them yourself.

07-12-2014: Timofey

Hello! Please advise a solution to the problem in this situation. We live in block Khrushchev on the 5th floor. Water began to drip from the ceiling. A plumber was called. Repaired fan pipe in the attic, gouging the wall from the entrance (they decided not to touch the bathtub - there are beautiful suspended ceilings). It didn't drip in spring/summer/autumn. Now, after the onset of cold weather, it has started to drip again. A plumber was called. They said that they forgot to seal the hole from the attic through which warm air rises from us (we can’t see it because the ceiling is suspended). The hole was repaired construction foam. It seems to drip less, but it still drips. We inserted a mobile phone with a camera into the hole of one of the light bulbs (after unscrewing it), and took pictures. It can be seen that the strip to which the ceiling is attached is damp, i.e. Water is still leaking from the attic. Please tell me what the problem could be. Hot water, cold water and heating do not go to the attic.

07-12-2014: Doctor Lom

There are 2 options. Either it is condensate or precipitation flowing down the pipe fan ventilation due to a poorly sealed joint on the roof. In any case, polyurethane foam does not have waterproofing properties and the joint between the pipe and the ceiling above your ceiling should be sealed at a minimum cement-sand mortar above.

11-12-2014: Igor

Good day. Can you tell me what or how to fix it? cast iron bath small holes less than 1mm. (water seeps out through them)

01-03-2015: Ruslan

I have strong condensation on the cold riser pipe, my neighbor upstairs (on the 4th floor) has the same thing, he is slowly drowning me. Water is constantly making noise through the pipes, that is, water is constantly being withdrawn. I went up several times to my neighbor’s place on the fifth floor, but it was to no avail, the family is dysfunctional and they need to repair their cistern The toilet is not installed (everything is new and renovated) and they are not allowed into the apartment. My question is: will it help if I put insulation on my neighbor’s pipe? or how to remove condensate from pipes? I think he can cover the pipe with plasticine and make a drain out of it into a separate container, although it may not hold up on a cold pipe

02-03-2015: Doctor Lom

First, you should contact the operating organization. She should be more interested than you in ensuring that water does not flow uselessly down the drain.
Further, in principle, it is possible to thermally insulate the riser, but not only in the neighbor above but also in your apartment, although it is much better to eliminate the cause of the condensation. As a temporary measure, you can put a clamp on the pipe and secure it with a tin or plastic of the appropriate shape so that the condensate drains from it into a separate container. Plasticine is unlikely to help here.

08-06-2015: Egor

Good afternoon
I have a problem: a leak at the junction on the drain between a cast iron sewer pipe and a plastic corrugation. There are suspicions that the rubber transition cuff does not hold. I bought a new set of corrugations with a cuff, but the leak at the junction with the cast iron continues. What to do about this leak?

08-06-2015: Doctor Lom

Look at the article “How to join plastic and cast iron sewer pipes”, it describes possible options.

09-06-2015: Igor

Good afternoon
Tell me how to tightly plug a cast iron sewer outlet under a sink? I need to lay it with tiles (after cutting it flush with a grinder). The problem is that the drain goes inside a concrete wall, and we have one sewer pipe for 2 apartments, the neighbors actively use the sink) I don’t use this drain and I want to remove it, but I can’t figure out how to do it...
It must be sealed very securely. Welding? A stub? Filling with concrete will not work, the neighbors have a 15-20 cm outlet in common pipe. Of course, I can carefully hammer a wooden wedge with sealant or epoxy, but what happens later when the wood rots and the neighbors clog their bathtub again?

09-06-2015: Doctor Lom

In fact, installing one outlet for 2 apartments is prohibited modern standards, so it’s better for you to contact the operating organization with a request to redo the sewerage wiring. If the pipe really gets clogged, it will have to be cleaned, possibly from outside your apartment.

09-06-2015: Igor

I can imagine what problems I might have.
The Housing Office will not help you in any way! This design feature"Khrushchob" series 1-510. Everyone enjoys our unbearable series, but this is a general channel. the pipe with the neighbors just got me!
Still, answer my specific question, especially since it won’t oblige you in any way: How would you drown out
old (50 years old house) cast iron elbow with approximately a diameter of 50. The pipe is in good condition. Gas welding? Metal plug for solution? There will be water in my drain once every six months, when the neighbors have another blockage. The cable from their drain will not pass into my plug and there is simply nothing to clean there on my part.

09-06-2015: Doctor Lom

If water flows into your drain once every six months, then a wooden chop will be enough for 20-30 years, maybe more. You can try installing a plastic plug with an appropriate seal. But cooking cast iron, and even hermetically, is not an easy task.

17-06-2015: Valentine

Good afternoon! Please tell me what can be used to seal or seal a crack in a cast iron drain pipe... can you get to the crack from the inside + a humid environment? What modern materials can there be? I’m currently considering cold welding from Vaikon, Germany.

17-06-2015: Doctor Lom

The article describes the possible options and, in particular, cold welding. There is no objection to cold welding if there is time for it to harden.

17-06-2015: Vasya

Good evening! Cleaned out the clog today drain pipe in the bathroom with a sanitary cable (9 mm), after which a leak was discovered on the bottom of the pipe (the house is more than 40 years old, “Khrushchev”). Opening the water, whether in the bathroom or sink, or in the kitchen, is dangerous - the water drips, and, at any time, dissatisfied neighbors below will complain... The plumber from the building management, who came about five hours after the call, said that the pipe needs to be changed from the toilet to the kitchen faucet. Cast iron to plastic. Moreover, at our expense. And I have two questions for you. Firstly, should the pipe replacement work be carried out at our expense, and not at the expense of the management company and thanks to regular contributions for major repairs (maybe you know about this?)? And, secondly, is the plumber right that it is necessary to change the pipe from the toilet to the kitchen, and is it really possible to do it yourself, without paying for the services of this comrade from Uzbekistan? Thanks in advance for your answers!

18-06-2015: Doctor Lom

Your questions are fair and not new. Theoretically, you can demand from the management company not only the replacement of a leaky pipe, but also the cleaning of a clogged sewer, rather than doing it yourself. But in life, at best, they will put a clamp on a leaking pipe and ask you to wait several years or decades before a major repair. And the fact that the plumber from the management company offered to change the pipe at your expense is nothing more than the use of his official position. In the sense that for such work you can call any outside plumber or even do it yourself. There is nothing complicated about replacing a section of pipe from cast iron to plastic; it is not necessary to change the entire pipe up to the riser, although it is advisable. Just in case, look at the section "Mixed sewerage".

18-08-2015: Novel

Good night!
If you don’t help, just break the boxes and change the pipes)))
The upper floor is Stalin, 5 years ago it was completely renovated, the pipe was replaced with plastic 110, it is connected to the old cast iron through a cross in the ceiling (naturally through a rubber coupling). Everything was ok. The neighbor downstairs made repairs to his toilet (he didn’t change the pipes) and... away I go when the pressure of the drain is high, it drips... then it doesn’t drip at all for six months, then again it drips for 2 days, then again it doesn’t drip for a month or another. But if we are away for a long time (in the village for a week), upon arrival he begins to drip heavily. The cross includes the toilet drain and the bathtub-sink-washer drain. I examined the crosspiece - there were no cracks, I coated the inside with sealant as best I could, it didn’t leak for several months, then again. I've already racked my brains on the forums. The guys from the offices and from Avito...can’t tell. The neighbor shouts, let's break it (my crosspiece in the ceiling is walled up). HELP WITH ADVICE!!

18-08-2015: Doctor Lom

Roman, I don’t think I can reassure you and suggest an option without disassembling the boxes. Firstly, you still haven’t found the leak, and this is very important. From your description it follows that the crosspiece is new, plastic, and as I later understood, it was filled with screed. The junction of the plastic cross with the cast iron pipe is located in the ceiling. Also, from your description of the problem, we can conclude that the maximum leakage occurs when you are using the bathtub. In this regard, it is important to know where exactly your neighbor is dripping. It may not always drip in the place of the leak; often water penetrates through the ceiling where it is easiest to do - at the place where the pipes pass through the ceiling, or at the lowest point of the ceiling, formed as a result of the deflection of the ceiling.
In addition, it is possible that the ceiling has rotted water pipe, but the water still flows down the sewer.
And finally, there are no reliable ways to eliminate sewer pipe leaks from the inside; as a rule, the leak is fixed from the outside.

23-08-2015: Olga

Firstly, Thanks a lot for your work. Now, secondly, in your response dated June 9, 2015, you wrote: “Actually, installing one outlet for 2 apartments is prohibited by modern standards” - if you don’t mind, I really need a link to which document contains such a prohibition. The issue of repairing a cast-iron sewer system from the early 50s is being resolved, and it looks like we have just such a drain for 2 apartments. what is the correct name for it - it’s exactly a “diversion” as construction term? I will be very grateful for your answer.

24-08-2015: Doctor Lom

1. What is a branch, riser, outlet - you can see in the article "Calculation internal sewerage. Theoretical background", there is not only a description but also a picture for a better understanding.
2. According to SNiP 2.04.01-85* clause 17.5: “Connect sanitary fixtures located in different apartments on the same floor, one outlet pipeline is not allowed." But perhaps by outlet pipeline you meant a riser.
3. Repairing a sewer system made according to old standards is always not an easy task. For example, look at the article “Repairing sewerage in a Stalin building.”

28-09-2015: glory

Hello

28-09-2015: glory

I changed the pipes from cast iron to plastic, and the cast iron pipe fell apart, that is, the entire cup of the pipe, now I can’t get the pipe to 110, when I flush the toilet, everything flows. And I can’t change the pipe, it fits the riser. What should I do?

28-09-2015: glory

That is, the cuff has nothing to hold on to

28-09-2015: Doctor Lom

It looks like you will have to change the tee or crosspiece after discussing this with your neighbors. More details in the article “How to disassemble a cast iron sewer riser (part 1).” I don't know of any other reliable methods.

06-11-2015: Evgenia

good evening, please give me some advice. The sewer riser, which is located in a shaft in the wall, is leaking. The house is 5 floors. I’m on the second. They said that part of the pipe needs to be changed. But since this is a shaft, there are no floors there. If you cut out a piece and insert plastic, it won’t collapse That’s all. After all, it’s cast iron and I think it weighs a lot?

08-11-2015: Doctor Lom

In theory, the pipes should be attached to the walls and thus the load from the pipes should be transferred to the walls. In this case, there is nothing wrong with replacing part of the pipe. But I don’t know how things are in your house.

27-02-2016: Dmitriy

Hello! It’s just a disaster in our apartment - we can’t get rid of the intense sewer smell in the bathroom. The canal area smells. riser, cast iron. Everything was disconnected from the riser; there are PVC corners and plugs in all branches of the cross. All joints were redone, both on the riser itself (chasing) and on the bends (cuff, sealant). Now nothing is leaking, the smell is the same... the plumbers shrug their shoulders. I have two questions: 1. Is it possible to replace the pipe riser with the same cast iron one in one apartment of a multi-storey building, there is a neighbor above and neighbors below? 2. How to clean the outside of the riser from factory bitumen before applying a layer to the riser liquid rubber(exclude the possibility of microcracks), neither a met brush, nor a solvent, nor sandpaper help much? Thank you. To understand the scale of the disaster, we renovated the apartment, but we have not been able to live in it for almost six months. Zhek's plumbers, not knowing what to do, close their eyes and say that there is no smell.

27-02-2016: Doctor Lom

Perhaps you are digging in the wrong direction. The fact is that often the cause of an unpleasant odor is a breakdown of the water seals, and the likelihood of this is quite high if your neighbor above has removed the ventilation part of the riser and installed a non-return air valve instead.
First, look at the article "Unpleasant odor in the bathroom or toilet. Causes, how to get rid of it."

31-03-2016: Sergey

Good afternoon Help with advice. We recently renovated our bathroom and replaced cast iron sewer 100 for a plastic one. After 6 months, plumbers from the housing department came and said that I was “flooding” the basement (I live on the first floor). They claim that when joining the plastic to the cast iron, I damaged the cast iron and to fix the problem they want to change the riser all the way to the basement, and to do this they need to use a hammer drill to hammer the tiles and concrete around the cast iron, thereby ruining my repair. I didn't let them do this. And by the way, everything is dry next to my riser. After the “investigation” I carried out, it turned out that that same hole in the riser is located, so to speak, at the very ceiling of the basement, you drown from the bottom of my apartment. Please tell me whether it is possible to carry out work on dismantling a cast iron pipe from the basement, so to speak, from the bottom up, and not as they suggest to me. And will it be possible to connect my pipe from below with the basement one (so as not to break anything in my bathroom)?

01-04-2016: Doctor Lom

It's possible that while carrying out repairs, you actually damaged the cast iron pipe below your outlet, and the hole you found in the basement may not be the only one. In this regard, in order to carry out high-quality repairs, in particular to replace the pipe in the ceiling and properly seal the joints, it will be necessary to break the ceiling. However, this would still have to be done, even if the cause of the leak was not your repair.

In general, flooding of the basement can cause additional uneven settlement of the foundation and the consequences can be much worse than broken tiles around the riser.

29-05-2016: Olesya

Hello, I discovered a hole in my cast iron today. sewer pipe in the toilet. The pipes are about 50 years old. The only piece of pipe that has not been replaced is the one that fits the riser and the toilet drain connection. The hole is even, the size of a 50 kopeck coin. Its edges are strong, the entire section of the pipe is also strong. Is it possible to repair it by cold welding, as you advised many, and what caused the hole to form?

29-05-2016: Doctor Lom

Actually, the diameter of the hole is quite large and I would recommend using a clamp. However, I don’t know where exactly your hole is; perhaps cold welding will withstand all possible loads. Why did there appear to be such a hole in the pipe? large diameter, I don’t know, I can assume that this is somehow connected with a manufacturing defect or unforeseen point loads on the pipe.

10-06-2016: Olga

Good afternoon I really need your advice. A crack is leaking that has formed in a cast-iron horizontal drain pipe (kitchen sink-bathroom-washbasin). How can you solve this problem yourself? If I use two-part products, do I need to scrape the paint down to the metal? I am attaching a photo. I apologize for the appearance of the pipe. Tenants live there and the attitude is appropriate. They will do the repairs themselves; due to the distance, I cannot supervise the work. P.S. Didn't this crack form in one or two days? Apparently, you need to paint the pipes at least sometimes and keep everything dry? Thank you in advance. Photo http://prntscr.com/bekbfn

10-06-2016: Doctor Lom

Actually, judging by the photograph, there is more than one crack (part of the bell is missing, another part is broken off) and the best option it would be to completely change the pipes. Nevertheless, you can try to seal them, but at the same time you do not need to use the sewer for at least a few hours. And the crack formed not because the pipes were not painted and wet (they are always unpainted and wet inside), but for other reasons, which, however, there is no point in discussing here.

15-06-2016: Olga

Thank you very much!
If you seal it, then in the way you recommend in your article? Do you need to strip off the paint around it?
Is it really possible that this horror that you reported about (part of the bell is missing, another part is broken off) could exist from the moment the house was commissioned (more than 30 years)? And what’s surprising is that there was never a leak... It turns out that instead of a normal pipe, the builders installed some kind of stub and covered up the holes? In Soviet times, this is how houses were rented out... I'm shocked...
Of course, as soon as possible, you need to change the pipes.
In the meantime, temporarily, at least somehow seal it.
Still, the cause of the crack is physical wear of the metal?

15-06-2016: Olga

Sorry, catching up.
You write “seal them up.” Does that mean there are several leaks? From the photo I see only one crack... Could you tell me which piece of pipe needs to be sealed?

15-06-2016: Doctor Lom

The photo from which I judge is of very poor quality, so of course I could be wrong. However, I see in the photo the coupling to the right of the tee, which has a longitudinal and transverse crack on the top on the right socket and several cracks on the side on the left socket. Moreover, based on the nature of the cracks, it can be assumed that part of the left bell has already been broken off, i.e. There are cracks on the bottom and it just lies on the screed. As for the missing part of the bell, I was in a hurry, mistaking the painted mortar used to seal the joints for part of the bell.

The cause of cracks may be manufacturing defects that were subject to heavy loads during installation or operation.

I judge the presence of a crack only by the presence of rust, i.e. if there is rust, there is a crack or a leaky joint. Does it let through? this crack water is a completely different question. For example, cracks at the top of the right coupling bell most likely do not allow water to pass through. Nevertheless, these are cracks and over time they will only increase until the coupling completely crumbles. Before sealing cracks, it is advisable to remove paint and rust.

04-07-2016: Daria

I am a resident of the 9th floor, neighbors from the 8th floor come and say that we are drowning them, my husband goes down there, one drop flows down a cast iron pipe, he tells them it’s condensation, didn’t you think? Time passes, our bathroom is dry, all the pipes have been replaced except the sewer, a neighbor from the 5th floor comes and says you are drowning us, they called a mechanic from the management company, he walked along the riser, came back to us and said you need to change the kitchen-bath-sewage branch This is what is drowning everyone, call a paid technician to replace it. I called three people at the same time, they all advised me to contact the manager because she had to service the sewer system. The asking price was set at 10 thousand. I have an expensive renovation in my bathtub from the previous owners.. what should I do? if my apartment is dry!!! My husband and I went down to the 7th floor - the neighbors are dry, no complaints, on the 6th floor there is a pipe running through the toilet and along the wall, which drowns as much as the 5th floor.

04-07-2016: Doctor Lom

Daria. Your comment is very emotional, but it is still impossible to determine from it the cause of the leak and complaints from neighbors down the riser.

And since you do not carefully read the site materials, you will have to resolve all issues with a representative of the management company. All the best.

04-08-2016: Eugene

Hello, please give me some advice.
The situation is like this: 9 storeys panel house The 4th floor has a shared bathroom, we replaced the sewage system from the bathtub and washbasin with plastic, the tee to which the toilet is connected remained cast iron, but there was a catch. When the plumber was changing the pipes, I noticed how he loosened it a little, about 1-2mm, didn’t say anything, everything was installed, he took the money and left, I thought this was normal,
but now I have doubts about whether this is normal. Everything works fine, there doesn't seem to be any leaks anywhere. Please give me some advice, if this is bad, what measures should I take? and is it possible to somehow fix this? or in
Is there nothing wrong with this and am I just an alarmist?

04-08-2016: Doctor Lom

In general, if nothing is leaking anywhere, and especially if there are no cracks, chips or other noticeable damage, then everything is fine. However, if you have doubts, ask your upstairs neighbor to flush a couple of buckets of water down the toilet to create maximum load on the riser. If no leaks are found, then I think everything is fine.

15-08-2016: Jonn

Hello, I need help.
Under the apartment (a wooden floor that had collapsed) I learned from neighbors that the elbow of the sewer riser was leaking.
the elbow is cast iron, there is a hole in it on the outside about the size of a matchbox. A rubber sheet was attached to the hole with wire. How to get rid of a leak forever and with what? (there is no way to completely wrap or wrap around the knee.

16-08-2016: Doctor Lom

In your case the most reliable way- this is a knee replacement, everything else is half measures. Alternatively, you can try welding the overlay, if possible.

27-08-2016: Alexei

Hello! I have this problem; I started replacing cast iron pipes with plastic ones in the apartment due to leaks everywhere possible and discovered that at the entrance to the riser there was a crack along the entire length! The nuance is that the crack runs along the bottom of the pipe, and the pipe itself is below the floor level ((! The question is how can you repair this crack from the inside of the pipe so that you can then insert plastic there???

28-08-2016: Doctor Lom

If the pipes are in such a poor condition, then it is better to replace them completely, including the tee or cross in the ceiling. Everything else is half measures.

27-09-2016: Julia

Hello! Please tell me how you can seal a 20 cm long crack (it doesn’t seem to be hollow) in a cast iron sewer parking lot, access to it is only open from above, since it is sealed in front with tiles, we live on the last 5th floor, there is a strong smell due to cracks.

27-09-2016: Doctor Lom

You will most likely have to knock down the tile to gain access to the pipe. I don’t know of any other reliable methods other than those described in this article.

13-10-2016: Oleg

Hello! Tell me the proportion of the polymer cement solution (cement + water + PVA glue), which is described in the article.

13-10-2016: Doctor Lom

It depends on the consistency of the glue and how strong the solution you ultimately want to achieve. Sometimes, when PVA glue is completely liquid, you don’t need to add water at all. Well, roughly speaking, then for one part of water with glue (or just glue) there are two or three parts of cement, i.e. one to two or three.

12-11-2016: Daria

Good afternoon My mother moved into an apartment in which the vertical sewer riser was painted with gray paint (the type that is used to paint over rust). For a while everything was fine. But, probably after six months, streaks began to appear under the layer of gray paint (the paint had swollen and there was something liquid inside). Mom removed the layers of paint that had fallen off the cast-iron sewer pipe and discovered that underneath there was only unpleasant-smelling water and metal. Now there are many long rusty smudges along the entire length of the pipe. There are no leaks at the pipe joints. I heard somewhere that sewer pipes made of cast iron must be coated with something before painting. I have an assumption that the previous tenants removed something protective covering from a cast iron pipe, and then painted it aesthetically - with gray paint. Please tell me how to properly and, most importantly, how to restore the coating of a cast-iron vertical riser in order to put it in order?

12-11-2016: Doctor Lom

Usually cast iron risers processed either with bitumen varnish (Kuzbass varnish). Before application, it is advisable to clean the riser from rust and condensation.

23-03-2017: Kate

What can you do to seal a leak? cold water at the junction between the plastic pipe and the cast iron. The cast iron pipe was completely rusty. They called a plumber from the utility and came and applied a rubber and wire clamp and gave a list of what needed to be bought. The apartment is rented, not ours, the owner is not itching. We have a plastic pipe and a granny lives below us; she hasn’t changed it and she’s not going to change it. Please tell me how I can fix it because I don’t have the strength to twist the towels anymore. It flows terribly. please

23-03-2017: Doctor Lom

Unfortunately, I don’t know any other methods other than those outlined in the article and in the comments. See also the article “How to join plastic and cast iron sewer pipes.”

11-01-2018: valentine

HOW CAN YOU CLOSE THE GAP UNDER THE TEE WIDE 1MM LENGTH 9CM WRAPPED IN GAUZE NOT FOR ANYTHING CAN A = IMPREGATE WITH LIQUID GLASS WITH CEMENT AND PUT INTO THE GROVE ADVICE I DON’T KNOW THE PROPORTION OF LIQUID GLASS WITH CEMENT AND IS IT NEEDED TO ADD WATER CAN YOU GIVE GOOD ADVICE?

02-03-2018: Svetlana

Good afternoon, Please advise, the last fifth floor, I replaced the background pipe from cast iron to plastic, but from the ceiling (the roof, so to speak), to the connection with the plastic pipe there was a piece of cast iron about 10 centimeters left, I recently discovered that the pipe is wet, I’m going to make repairs to put new tiles, well, sew up the drain pipe, but there’s moisture there, what should I do? It seems to me that the whole point is in this remaining small piece of an old cast iron pipe, maybe there is a way to treat it with something or cover it in some way so that there is no moisture on the entire pipe, please tell me,

02-03-2018: Doctor Lom

I can assume that this is condensation, which often happens on cast iron pipes in winter. Now you are unlikely to get rid of it, but in the warm season you can paste over the remaining piece of pipe with some kind of thermal insulation material. It may not be possible to completely get rid of condensation, but there will be significantly less of it. However, condensation is possible on the exhaust part of the plastic pipe.

18-08-2018: Stanislav

Hello, such a problem. When dismantling the old cast-iron toilet elbow, the riser bowl was damaged; a hole in the lower part of the bowl was about 5 kopecks in size. How can it be sealed?

18-08-2018: Doctor Lom

As an option, I can suggest the following: a rubber “patch” with a diameter 2 cm larger than the diameter of the hole (preferably glued), then a bandage of 5-7 layers is wound and impregnated with epoxy resin.

14-12-2018: Yegorych

Hello!
In the toilet, the cast iron coupling connecting 2 vertical pipes boner
I wrapped it in 3-5 layers with a bandage and a solution of tile adhesive (Ceresite).
In the place where I wind, there is strong condensation during the morning and evening flows of water from the neighbors (I have the 2nd floor in a 9-story building).
What to do? Should I wrap a few more layers of bandage with the solution?

14-12-2018: Doctor Lom

Actually, bandage and tile adhesive are not waterproofing materials, so water may continue to ooze out after adding several layers of bandage with the solution.
The most reliable option in this case is to call plumbers, but as a temporary measure - bandage rubber with wire or a bandage with epoxy.

IN modern communications Plastic pipes are increasingly being used, especially for domestic needs. Sewage, plumbing and heating systems mostly consist of polypropylene pipes or PVC products. This popularity is due to the long service life, ease of installation and reliability of polymer pipes. But even such products sometimes need repair. This article will discuss how to seal a plastic pipe.

What to do first when a leak appears

If there is a leak in the pipes in your apartment or house high pressure, heating system or other communications, then the first step is to shut off the shut-off valves. This truth is familiar to everyone. But what to do next?

Any leak that appears can be “plugged” using clamps. Such designs are simply put on required area and tightened with bolts.

You can use the old method - use rubber. I often repair heating or water pipes using this method. The problem area is wrapped with a piece of rubber (for example, from car tires) and is clamped with a clamp or tied with a thin wire or strong cord.

Note! You can use regular paint. The area where the crack or leak appears is wrapped in cloth and painted over with oil paint.

But all of the above methods can be considered a temporary solution. If such patches are left for a long time, the leak will appear again. This is why many craftsmen recommend replacing the problem area, especially since it is quite easy to do this using plastic pipes.

Sealant and epoxy glue

There can be many reasons for cracks or leaks in plastic pipes. This may also be a violation of installation rules, improper operation or a simple manufacturing defect. If the crack is small, then you can not replace it, but try to seal the pipe.

The first way to conduct renovation work is the use of silicone sealant. This method is suitable when the crack is not through. As a rule, this method is used when repairing sewer pipes. The progress of work will be as follows:

• The crack is cleaned and expanded if possible. This is necessary so that the sealant penetrates as deeply as possible.
• Next, it is necessary to degrease and dry the area where the repair work will be carried out.
• A layer of sealant is then applied and allowed to dry.

How to repair a through hole, for example, in the same sewer pipe? In this case, it is better to use two-component epoxy glue. The work is performed in the following sequence:

• The area with the crack is cleaned, degreased and dried.
• Then we prepare a suitable bandage. A piece of fiberglass or other dense and flexible material is best for this.
• The repaired area along the entire length of the crack is wrapped with a bandage with a reserve, and the number of revolutions must be at least five.
• The last step is to apply a layer of epoxy glue.

This method is quite suitable both in the case of repairing pipes for sewer and water (for example, for a heated towel rail).

We use sealing tape

One of modern methods A small pipe leak in a bathroom or toilet can be eliminated by using sealing tape. This material is an adhesive fabric with special impregnation. As a rule, sealing tape is used at joints and joints, but it is also quite suitable for straight sections.

The progress of work will look like this:

• The section of pipe being repaired is cleaned of contaminants and dried.
• Stretch a small piece of tape and begin to wind it onto the pipe. In this case, the material must be constantly kept under tension to prevent wrinkles from appearing.
• When winding, you need to lay the next section of tape on half of the previous one. As a result, your pipe will be “packed” in two layers of sealing material.

Note! U this method there is one drawback. Sealing tape does not withstand sunlight well. Therefore, the repaired area must be covered with a protective layer.

We use cold welding

Today in specialized stores you can find special, so-called dry cold welding. Its composition is intended specifically for the repair of plastic pipes intended for plumbing, cooling systems, heating or other needs.

Cold welding can reliably seal almost any crack or leak. In this case, there is no need for heating; the components of the material are brought to the desired state as a result of a chemical reaction.

The progress of work to eliminate a leak or seal a crack will look like this:

• First of all, we prepare the surface. We treat the entire problem area with emery cloth. Next, you should degrease the surface (it is better to do this with liquids containing alcohol). This procedure is mandatory, otherwise the service life of the “patch” will be minimal.
• Then we decide on the quantity required material. This is done by eye, the main thing is that the resulting mass is enough to cover the entire problem area.
• The material is picked up (while wearing wet rubber gloves) and crumpled until ready. The color of the mass will indicate its readiness; it should turn brown. In this case, the material reaches the consistency of plasticine;
• The mass is applied to the desired area and pressed using a tourniquet. After this, the pipe is not touched for an hour. Once the wire is removed, the cold weld turns into a strong, dense substance that can be drilled, cut, or any other task.

Note! It is important to take safety precautions when working with cold welding. The composition contains substances harmful to the body, so you need to work with gloves and safety glasses.

To speed up your work, you can use tricks from specialists. For example, cold welding hardens better when exposed to warm air. If you want to quickly complete repair work, you can use a construction or regular hairdryer.

Modern manufacturers offer the purchase of cold welding, which can be used to repair plumbing fixtures. Today, gluing back a broken piece of a sink or toilet is not a problem. The main thing is to carefully read the label when purchasing cold welding. Check the shelf life of the material, its composition (it should contain epoxy and amine resins, as well as steel and mineral filler), and also inquire about the availability of a quality certificate.

Sewage from cast iron pipes is installed in most multi-storey buildings of Soviet construction. Maintenance Moreover, rarely does anyone carry out planned repairs of these systems. Therefore, the risk that pipes will become unusable and may leak increases every year.

Many residents don't wait emergency situation and change the cast iron pipeline to . Those who do not have such an opportunity use the old one and hope for the best. If the pipe leaks at the junction or a crack appears on it, do not rush to panic. You can fix this kind of problem yourself, without replacing the entire pipeline or part of it.

Repair of cast iron sewer pipe

A small leak can be repaired using special clamps or repair couplings. For this it is necessary in any hardware store buy a clamp of a suitable diameter, put it on the pipe in the right place and tighten it. As an alternative to a purchased clamp, a piece of rubber is quite suitable; you need to wrap it around the leak and tighten it with wire. Fixing the breakdown using this method takes a few minutes.

The next method, using cement, takes more time and the pipeline can be used only after the cement has hardened (about a day). So, you need to stock up on cement and bandages. The bandage is cut into equal parts, about 40 - 50 cm long, and the cement is diluted in water or liquid glass.

Next, the bandage is dipped into the prepared solution and after it is well soaked, it is wrapped around the damaged area and sprinkled with dry cement. This work is repeated until a small “cocoon” is formed on the pipe, which can be treated with liquid glass on top ( silicate glue). Also, instead of cement you can take epoxy resin, all stages of work will be the same.

A small crack can also be sealed using ready-made silicone-based sealants. To do this, you need to slightly expand the damage, giving it a ∨-shaped shape. Then clean, degrease and dry. After this, pour sealant into the crack, wait for it to dry, and you can use the sewer.

You can prepare a high-quality sealant yourself by mixing 3 parts copper oxide with two parts phosphoric acid. This mixture must be applied to a grease-free surface immediately after preparation, as it hardens very quickly.

You can also use a special mixture – “cold welding” – as a patch. Stages of work: cleaning and degreasing the area to be repaired, applying a “patch” and a rubber seal over it.

How to seal a cast iron pipe joint

If the sewer pipe has leaked at the junction, then this situation can be corrected as follows:

1. Caulk - remove any remaining cement and tow.
2. Dry with a hair dryer and remove any dirt.
3. Thickly stuff linen plumbing tape into the gap formed.
4. Apply an aqueous solution, polycement and PVA glue to the joint several times.
5. After 24 hours, the sewer can be used.

If instead of flax and solution you use silicone sealant, then the system can be used much earlier.

On a note!

You should not seal cracks and holes with improvised means: plasticine, chewing gum, glue, etc. All this will eliminate the problem, but for a short time. Also, do not hammer choppers into the holes, since cast iron is a fragile material and this can lead to even greater damage.

In conclusion, I would like to note that if a crack appears in one place of the pipe, it is possible that soon the same thing will happen in another. And all these patches, no matter how high-quality they may seem, are a temporary fix to the problem. Therefore, it is better to immediately get new ones, contacting specialists or doing it yourself. Otherwise, the next leak can lead not only to minor repairs of cast iron pipes, but also to large-scale flooding and subsequent repairs to the neighbor’s apartment.

Video: How to repair a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe