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Today, with all the variety of fencing, few types of construction could replace a home-made chain-link fence.

Advantages of a chain-link fence

1. Very quick and easy to install with your own hands;
2. Low cost;
3. Lightweight construction, does not require a reinforced foundation;
4. Lets light through, will not create conflict situations with neighbors because of the shadow created;
5. A strict and unobtrusive appearance that fits perfectly into any landscape.

Installation methods

You can install a chain-link fence with your own hands in two ways:

1. Ordinary, as in the photo above, when the mesh is stretched between two support posts. This method is much cheaper and simpler. It is recommended to use in cases where the goal is not to achieve an impeccable appearance, but you just need to install a fence quickly and cheaply.

2. Sectional, as in the photo above, when produced ready-made sections fences in which a fragment of the chain-link mesh is fixed. This method will be much more expensive, because you will have to acquire metal corners, the price of which is higher than the mesh itself, but the fence itself will be much more attractive and practical (for example, you can hang a carpet on top of the fence, dry something, etc.)

Materials

To install such a fence we will need the following materials:

1. Metal pillars 50x50x2x3000 mm;
2. Chain-link mesh (not galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
3. Fastenings (nails, galvanized bolts);
4. Concrete M200.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chain-link fence

So, how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands?

I. Marking the territory.

We begin work by driving in pegs in the corners of the area and pulling laces between them. We measure the length of the lace - this is the length of the required chain-link mesh, you also need to take into account + 5-7% of the additional length “in reserve”. Next, we mark the locations of the supports, the optimal step is 2.5-3 m.

II. Installation of pillars.

In the event that after the construction of the house there remains a sufficient amount wooden beam or other material that you can use in future support pillars fencing; when the price of “timber” in your region is several times cheaper than metallic profile, or you just need a temporary fence - then you should use wooden supports. The surface of the wooden beam must be cleared of bark, and it is also advisable to treat it with antiseptics and waterproofing mastic, which will protect the material from rotting and pests. The pillars should be trimmed based on the desired height of the fence, as well as the depth of the foundation to be dug (the hole should be 100-150mm larger than the soil freezing depth, therefore, if you are counting on a two-meter fence, and the soil freezing depth is 800 mm, then you should prepare pillars with a height of 3 m). But such supports will not last long, so it is better to use metal poles!

If you decide to build a solid and durable fence, take care of purchasing metal posts. Installation of such supports requires concreting the base. The depth of the concrete pit should be 1/3 of the height of the fence. For example, if you planned to install a fence 2 m high, the depth of the hole should be at least 1 m (you should also take into account the freezing depth and heaving of the soil).

III. Chain-link mesh tension.

TO wooden base It is most convenient to nail the fence with nails.

DIY sectional chain-link fence

The main difference between this method and the usual one is the presence of a frame.

To install a sectional chain-link fence we will need the following: materials:

1. Metal posts 50x50x2x3000 mm;
2. Chain-link mesh, galvanized or plasticized;
3. Bent metal corner 40x40x3 mm
4. Metal rod and strips for welding
5. Concrete M200

Marking and installing the posts of a sectional chain-link fencing is no different from its more simple analogue, but you’ll have to work hard with welding the frames. If you do not have good welding skills, then it is better to turn to a professional.

Chain-link mesh is an ideal material for constructing a lightweight fence or fence. The sun's rays pass through it perfectly, so it can often be found when fencing beds and gardens. It is also often used to divide the territories of neighboring areas. Installing a fence using chain-link mesh does not require special knowledge and skills. In order to install such a fence, you just need to study the technology of its construction. And everyone can handle the construction itself.

Chainlink mesh - what kind of “fruit”

Chain-link is a metal construction raw material, durable and inexpensive when compared with wood or corrugated sheeting. You can purchase such a net at any hardware store. It is produced in a roll. This is one of the advantages of purchasing such material; it is very convenient to transport.

Hire specialized construction crews there is no need to install a chain-link fence. Even a schoolboy can build it. And you can do this in two ways: sectional installation and the material tension method.

The advantages of this material include the following qualities:

• this is an inexpensive material.
• no special skills are needed to build a fence from it. Easy and simple to build.
• the area is not hidden from the sun's rays.
• The chain-link has a long service life.
• To decorate such a fence, you can let climbing plants grow along it.
• Having installed such a fence, you will not need to repair it, tint it, etc.

Everything would be fine, but such material also has disadvantages:

• It's hard to hide your privacy behind a net. To do this, it needs to be decorated, for example, with climbing plants.
• no soundproofing properties.
• If you install non-galvanized mesh, it will rust quite quickly.

Types of mesh (table)

Type name	Description	Photo
Non-galvanized network	The cheapest material presented. Only temporary fences are made with it, because rust quickly appears on it, often even as soon as the first rains have passed. Its service life is no more than three to four years. Of course, such a mesh can be painted or coated with water-repellent agents. But this needs to be repeated with some frequency. And in the end it can cost much more than purchasing a galvanized type
Galvanized network	It is initially protected from moisture. Visually more attractive when compared with the previous chain link. It looks beautiful on a sectional fence. Naturally, it costs a little more than the non-galvanized version. But the game is worth the trouble. This option is much more practical, because its service life is many times longer, and there is no need to tint it.
Plasticized	Mesh with special polymer coating, which is not subject to corrosion. This coating is not only very durable, but also has a wide color scheme. It is possible to choose a color that will match, for example, the roof of a house. Most often you can see blue and green chain-link. Less often red, white or yellow

What materials need to be purchased, drawing

Pay attention to the choice of support posts. The most convenient pipes are made of metal with a square cross-section. There are pipes on which the manufacturer himself has already welded hooks for the mesh. Some people use old pipes onto which they weld these hooks themselves.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

Most often, a net 150 centimeters wide with cells of 4–5 centimeters is used to construct a fence. The length of a standard roll is 10 meters. To prevent sagging of the fence, support posts are installed at a distance of 200–250 centimeters from each other. Therefore, five posts are needed for one roll. The support posts should stick out above the ground 100 millimeters above the chain-link mesh. They should go 1/3 of their length into the ground.

Now it is clear that to build, for example, a 30-meter fence, you need to purchase 3 rolls of chain-link and 16 posts 230–150 centimeters long. Each post must have at least three hooks. If they are on the poles initially, then no problem. And if they are not there, then they need to be welded. Therefore, we multiply 16 pillars by 3 hooks for each, we get 48 hooks. They need to be purchased and attached to the poles using a welding machine.

If the fence is planned to be sectional, then the number of sections is set based on the fact that the length of one is 200–250 centimeters, the width is 150 centimeters. Knowing these parameters, you can calculate the required amount metal corners, which, by the way, also have recommended requirements. It is most convenient to use 4x4 centimeter corners, the thickness of which is 5 millimeters.

We install a tension chain-link fence

A tension fence can be installed much faster than a sectional one and will be less expensive. To erect a fence, you just need to mark the area, prepare holes for support posts, install these posts and mount the mesh on hooks. Let's look at the process step by step.

Even if you have stretched the mesh really well, it will still sag over time. To avoid this, you simply need to pass reinforcing wire or long steel rods through the meshes of the chain-link. They must be threaded through the cells across the entire perimeter of the fence, leaving 50–70 millimeters from the top edge of the mesh, and welded to the support posts.

Some people also thread such wire along the lower edge of the chain-link 200 millimeters from the surface of the ground.

DIY sectional fence

First you need to mark and install the support posts. The process is practically no different from the previous one. Is it possible that it is not hooks that are attached to the posts, but special metal plates measuring 150x50 millimeters and 5 millimeters thick. They must be welded one at a time on top and bottom of the support column, retreating 200 millimeters from the edge.

When welding a section to the supports, try to place the welding points at the same level. Even the most minimum deviation will be clearly visible and aesthetic appearance will be lost.

Decorating the fence (table)

Decoration option	Description	Photo
Colored chain link	This is the easiest way to personalize your fence. You can paint it yourself or purchase it already painted. This also includes plasticized mesh. A competent choice of shade will perfectly complement the overall design of your site.
climbing plants	This method is also quite simple and popular among summer residents. You can grow bindweed, climatis or morning glory along the grid. Chain-link mesh is a very good support for such types of plants. Thus, the rather boring fence comes to life and is transformed. Naturally, it looks beautiful only in the warm season. In winter, the fence will lose its attractiveness. Such a fence will hide your privacy from neighbors' eyes for a while
Plant trees and shrubs around the perimeter	This option, like the previous one, is classified as “ hedge" Only some types of plants remain green in the cold, and the fence will not lose its attractiveness. They plant thuja, yew, climbing rose, rosehip, spirea. Often the choice falls on fruit-bearing plants, for example, blackberries, barberries, chokeberries and others. Naturally, such a fence requires constant care. This decorative design the fence, too, like the previous one, will protect you from the eyes passing by
Decorative chain link	There is a company in Denmark that produces fences. They came up with such a network. In it, the wire is woven so that various patterns are obtained that look like lace from a distance.
Garden on the fence	You can easily hang various pots and flower containers on the mesh. Sometimes garden plants are planted in them. The second option will appeal to those who have a small plot of land. As a result, it’s beautiful and useful, and because of the fence no one can see what you’re doing on the site
Street art	Many people have old skeins of knitting thread at home. They can be used to “cross-stitch” on the fence mesh. This way you get interesting, individual and bright fences. This decoration option is gaining popularity in Europe and is already considered urban art. Why not decorate our fences this way? Moreover, it is quite cheap
Photo grid	Using a polymer mesh with an image printed on it will help you quickly give the fence an individual and beautiful view. It is durable, not afraid of bad weather, and the color does not fade. The pattern on the mesh is located on one side only. On the other hand, the chain-link is white.

Video: self-installation of a tension chain-link fence

Self-installation This kind of fencing is a simple process. Now you know it. This type of fence is cheap, beautiful (if decorated), easy to install, and durable. In general, what many of us need. Good luck!

The patented invention of Karl Rabitz has been a reliable material option for fences for centuries. In the fencing of the chicken coop and transformer hut, sports ground and land plot– such a grid can be found everywhere. There is no alternative to it in demarcating neighboring areas - according to the regulations, it is prohibited to install boundary fences made of opaque materials. The task of making a chain-link fence with your own hands will not seem difficult to any man with a minimum of tools.

Which chain-link mesh to choose for a fence

The chain-link mesh is a continuous fabric of wire spirals woven together. This design makes it easy to splice the fragments together. In this case, the cell size can be in the range of 20-100 mm (the most common sizes are 30-50 mm), standard height rolls 1, 1.5 and 2 m.

Wire is used to make mesh different diameters from 1.2 to 5mm; Most of the chain-links on sale are made of wire 1.5-2 mm in diameter. The wire can be coated or uncoated:

• Without coating (“black”). It is better not to use mesh made from it for permanent fencing, its service life is short, and it is almost impossible to paint such a product with high quality, despite all the assurances of the “advisers.”
• Zinc coated is the most common option. Galvanized chain-link will fade after some time, but will not rust, having served for decades.
• Made from stainless steel. A chic and timeless option, but very expensive.
• In a polymer shell. This mesh appeared on sale not so long ago and is widely used in great demand. Firstly, it has a long service life (provided you choose a reliable manufacturer with high-quality plastic coating), and secondly, you can realize your fantasies due to a wide palette of colors.

Galvanized wire mesh

Mesh with colored polymer coating

With your own hands you can not only build a chain-link fence, but also weave the mesh itself. There are many drawings of a manual loom for weaving it. Manufacturing the machine will require some milling, welding and light turning work. One person is able to produce up to 10 m of mesh per day, therefore, if you have wire, it makes sense to think about independent production.

Installation of supports for fencing construction

There are several options for making a chain-link fence. In any case, the most responsible and labor-intensive process is marking the territory and installing support pillars.

How to prepare the site and choose supports

Before installing a mesh fence, you should accurately, in accordance with the existing documents for the site, measure the boundaries of the future fence, think about the location of the gates and gates. Clear the area for the construction of the fence from debris and vegetation, and then drive stakes (wooden or metal stakes) into the places of future corner posts and supports for gates and gates.

To determine the location of the intermediate posts, you need to stretch a strong cord between the stakes, then measure the distance between them. Optimally, the racks are placed 2-2.5 m apart from each other, so the resulting distance must be divided by 2.5 and rounded up.

The distance between the pillars should be from 2 to 2.5 m

In this way the number of corner posts is found; the exact distance between them can be found by dividing the distance mentioned above by the number of pillars. The locations of future supports should also be marked with pegs.

Depending on the type of underlying soil, material, thickness of the pillars and the type of future fence, there are several methods for installing supports. Wooden posts are short-lived, concrete or asbestos-cement pipes cause difficulties when attaching the mesh.

The optimal solution To make a chain-link fence with your own hands, you will need metal posts made of round or profile square pipe from 60 mm in diameter. Next we will consider this option.

Support Pole Installation Methods

You can install metal racks:

• simply driving them into the ground;
• forget - place in a pre-prepared hole and fill it with stones or large crushed stone, constantly compacting it;
• partially (when the end of the post is driven into the ground) or completely concreted in pre-prepared pits.

There are many methods for calculating the length and depth of the underground part of the pillars - determining the type of soil, the level of passage groundwater and depth of soil freezing. But for a light chain-link fence, possible movements of the supports of a few centimeters in height are insignificant, so in practice they use a simple rule - at least 40% of the post must be in the ground. That is, a post for a fence 1.5 m high should be about 2.1 m long for any installation method, but complete concreting is optimal.

In practice the process looks like this:

1. Install corner (or end, if there are gates and gates) posts, strictly controlling their verticality using a level.
2. Prepare holes for intermediate posts according to the preliminary markings. The presence of a drill in normal (without roots and large stones) soil makes the work much easier!
3. After the concrete has hardened, pull a cord over the top of the racks to control the height of the installed intermediate supports, another one - from below, to control the placement of all pillars on the same line.
4. To make it easier to level the pillars in height, fill the bottom of the holes with sand, gravel or small crushed stone and simply change the height of this cushion by adding or removing material.
5. Fill the height-adjusted racks with concrete with level control, and install stops and supports if necessary.

Further installation should be carried out only after the concrete has hardened (at least one week); the posts must be primed and painted.

Instructions for building different types of chain link fences

Before you start building a chain-link fence with your own hands, you should determine the purpose of the fence, the basic requirements for aesthetics and strength. Indeed, in one case you need a powerful fence made of non-standard mesh with 4-5 mm wire for grazing livestock, in another you need a beautiful and elegant fence in front of the house or lightweight design no frills on the borders of neighboring plots. For each task there is its own option.

The simplest fence for a site

Most easy way installation of a mesh fence - simply attach it to the installed supports. For this work you will need an assistant, or better yet two.

1. Before fastening, roll out the chain-link on the ground to a distance of slightly more than one span between the posts.
2. Check the height level of the wire spirals and, if necessary, screw in or unscrew displaced ones. The fact is that it is not visible on the roll whether they are all at the same level, and after stretching the mesh it will be impossible to align the links.
3. Immediately bend the edges of the spirals with pliers to avoid injury and the possibility of the mesh unraveling during installation.
4. As you fasten the mesh, unwind it further.

There are several ways to attach the chain-link to the posts, but it is highly advisable to attach not the mesh itself (to avoid its deformation), but a metal rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm inserted vertically into its link. Using another similar pin, inserted a little further, the assistant should pull the fabric.

This does not require any blocks, levers or complex structures for tensioning, moreover, excessive efforts by one person can lead to deformation and stretching of the 2 mm wire mesh!

The rod can be attached to the support like this:

• just tie it to a post with soft wire. The fastest way, but not too beautiful;
• use special clamps rather than wire;

Fastening with clamps

• put the pin on the pre-prepared hooks and bend them. Hooks made from pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a length of 50-80 mm should be welded to the stand at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other until the mesh is tensioned;

Fastening with hooks

• weld the rod (not the fabric!) to the post in several places, obtaining a permanent connection;
• stitch the mesh spiral with a rod, inserting it into pre-welded sections of pipe with a diameter of 1/4″ and a length of 15-20 mm. They should be placed on the support at the same distance as the hooks; the short length of the segments will allow them to fit into the grid cells. The most aesthetic way of dismountable connection.

End and corner posts will experience constant loads from the impact stretched mesh, so braces (stops) are required.

Installation method corner post

Fence option with guy wires

To ensure greater rigidity of the fence, better resistance to wind loads and to prevent sagging of the canvas, you can stretch one (from above) or several rows of cable or wire 4-6 mm thick.

Such strings can be attached to supports and tensioned in any convenient way, but the most practical option– using special ties or tensioners.

String tensioner

When installing a chain-link fence with your own hands using guy ropes, the distance between the posts can be increased to 3 m. But it is worth considering that when tensioning, the load on the outer and corner supports increases many times over, so their rigidity should be increased in comparison with supports for simple tension fence.

The ideal option for fixing the fabric is through stitching the mesh along its length. But this process is long and labor-intensive, and the complexity increases with increasing diameter and stiffness of the cable or wire.

Therefore, in practice, the strings are first tensioned, then the chain-link is installed similarly to the simple method described above, and then after 200-300 mm the mesh is tied to the guy wires with galvanized binding wire with a cross-section of 1-1.5 mm.

Reinforced version with lags

To enhance load-bearing frame fence, logs should be welded to the installed posts, preferably from a profile pipe. The main load in the fence will be compression, so the section of the log should ensure that the frame does not “fold” when the mesh is tensioned and the fence is subsequently used. With this installation method, there is no need for braces for corner and end posts.

Chain-link mesh on a frame with logs

Since most of the efforts will be applied in the upper part of the fence, the lower and intermediate logs (if any) can be replaced with reinforcement, rolled wire, or strings even stretched, as in the previous method. Screw the mesh fabric to the frame with wire.

A fence with logs will be a good foundation for the future if there is a need to decorate the fence by hanging additional material on it. You can also easily replace the chain-link with corrugated sheets or slate, making the fence much more solid.

Practical sectional solution

Sectional fence

A fence made of sections, which are frames from a corner with a mesh fixed inside, is the most difficult to manufacture, but has a lot of advantages and benefits:

• such a design is the most beautiful and impeccable from an artistic perspective;
• each section is separate and rigid structural element, therefore, there will be no issues with the mesh sagging and loss of protective properties;
• if necessary, sections can be dismantled and the posts can be used to build new fences;
• Possibility of installation with a large slope of the fenced area. It is believed that the chain-link mesh can be stretched when the ground level rises no more than 6° (which corresponds to a slope of 1:10). If these values ​​are greater, the right solution would be a sectional fence with uniform ledges.

Sectional fence with ledges

To manufacture the section, a solid-rolled steel angle with a flange of 40-50 mm is used.

1. Using a grinder (preferably a mounting saw), cut off the parts strictly perpendicularly required size.
2. Lay out the frame on flat surface(or level all corners using pads), carefully measure the diagonals. To avoid twisting, the frame should be cooked in opposite corners.
3. In the finished frame, clean the seams, prime and paint it (it is much easier to repair areas burnt from welding than to paint the corner under the mesh!).
4. It is necessary to install the mesh fabric through rods, which can be welded or installed on hooks and bent (as with racks). At the same time, fasten the first pin on the side of the frame, after tensioning the mesh - on the opposite side, and then on the top and bottom.
5. Do not apply excessive force when tensioning, otherwise the section may “fold” inward. Fastening on all sides, even with minimal tension, will prevent the canvas from “worrying” and sagging.
6. The distance between the supports should be calculated so that there is a gap of 40-80 mm between the support and the frame (or make sections based on the already known distance between the posts).
7. To attach the sections to the posts, weld metal dies (approximately 6*60*250 mm) in advance.
8. The frames can be attached to the dies using either electric welding or bolts, resulting in a collapsible structure.

Approximate diagram of fastening sections

Video: do-it-yourself chain-link fence

How to decorate a chain-link mesh - original solutions

Many people do not want to make a fence from chain-link mesh, considering it impersonal, too simple, and refuse this option in favor of other materials. Completely in vain! There are many ways to make such a fence original and unique, here are some of them.

Making patterns from wire. A labor-intensive method, but beautiful and for a long time.

The use of polymer multi-colored tapes and cords. Bright, elegant, but not too durable.

Elegant appliques made from ribbons and cords

Living plants. Always relevant, but beautiful only during the active growing season and flowering. And from autumn to spring, if the dried stems are not removed in a timely manner, it looks very untidy. You can use artificial greenery in the same way.

Light-shading nets. They are various colors and degree of light transmission. They significantly increase the windage and weight of the fence, so they are not suitable for a simple tension fence.

Application of light-shading mesh

PVC photo fence or decorative photo grid. New, expensive, beautiful and luxurious material. It is also worth using with a powerful frame or sectional fence solution, hanging over the chain-link.

At this point, the question of how to make a mesh fence with your own hands can be considered closed. Good luck in construction, and may the fence made with the help of the advice received please you for many years!

To create a strong and reliable fence, it is important to choose the right posts for the chain-link mesh. The supports can be varied; the light weight of the mesh allows you to create a stable fence and save on poles.

1 Concrete posts for mesh fences, taking into account the height of the fences

Today, the following types of supports can be used for chain-link:

• wooden;
• concrete;
• asbestos-cement;
• metal.

The diameter and shape of the pillars can be different; their choice depends on the type of mesh, the height of the fence, and the width of the span. Typically, a point foundation is used; shallow-depth or combined strip foundations are rare.

When choosing posts for a chain-link mesh, you must first pay attention to the material of manufacture, and then to the diameter or cross-section, height and other parameters of the support. Popular are concrete supports with rectangular cross-section. They are stable, have a long service life and do not require any protection from moisture or corrosion. Concrete has no effect negative influence on the environment.

Concrete mesh posts usually already have special through holes; the supports themselves are made on the basis of durable crushed granite, include reinforcement with metal rods.

Popular are concrete supports of 2 and 2.5 m:

1. The 2 m high posts have a total length of 2.05 m (allowance is given). The cross-section of the rectangular support is 8*9 cm, the total weight of one pillar is 30 kg. For reinforcement, type VR-1 reinforcement with a cross section of 4 mm is used. The total number of through mounting holes is 3.
2. The pillars with a working height of 2.5 m have a cross-section of 8*9 cm, the weight of one support is 38 kg. Used for amplification metal fittings type VR-1, its cross-section is 4 mm. There should be 4 through holes.

Concrete pillars for chain-link mesh they have many advantages. Their cross-section fully complies with safety regulations; when deepened, there is no need for expensive protection from moisture or corrosion. Despite the large weight of one support, concrete pillars are used more often than others due to their reliability. To transport materials, you will have to hire special transport, and work on the site with two or even three people. Savings are achieved due to simple maintenance and durability; the poles do not need to be constantly painted and protected from climatic external conditions, moisture, snow, ice.

2 Traditional wooden supports

Installation of wooden poles is not used so often today, despite the low cost and extremely simple installation. Such pillars are usually made of solid wood; they can be cylindrical or rectangular with different sections. Immediately before installation, the surfaces must be treated using special protective equipment, Special attention devote to the underground part.

Of the benefits of using wooden supports it is necessary to allocate a relatively small weight, easy installation, availability and low cost. The pillars are easy to install, their height can be any, the fencing parameters are taken into account. The height of low fences for demarcation is about 50 cm, and a more reliable one is about 2.5 m. A wooden fence post is installed quickly and easily, no experience or expensive tools are required.

Wooden supports are not the best practical material for arranging fencing. Like any other wooden fence, the supports need excellent protection from external influences, especially moisture. The supports should be constantly painted with special compounds, but durability still remains in question. If you need a durable chain-link fence, then it is better to give preference to more reliable materials. If you need to put up a light fence to delimit areas, then such poles can be used. In many cases, they are even desirable, since the fence can be easily moved if necessary.

3 Metal fence posts

One of the most reliable options for fences is metal posts; it is on them that the mesh is attached. Such supports are made from round or rectangular profile pipe. The cross-section of the pipe is usually in the range of 40-60 mm, the metal can be galvanized, painted or black, but in the latter case, the supports after installation need to be treated with a primer and special paint. The advantages of the pillars are their high strength, durability, resistance to mechanical stress and heavy loads.

Installation of metal poles is simple, but the weight of the pipe requires the participation of at least two people. Unlike wooden supports, metal ones have a more attractive appearance and are easier to maintain. When installing metal posts for a chain-link mesh, no experience or complex equipment is required; usually such supports are used for point or strip foundation. Due to the greater weight than wooden ones, concreting of the supports is required. This only increases the strength of the fence and its durability.

4 Asbestos-cement pipes for chain-link fence

The chain-link mesh can be attached to asbestos-cement supports, although this option is less common. Asbestos cement supports are cheaper, their installation is simpler and takes less time. Strength and durability are lower than other materials, but the weight of the mesh is much less than sections of fences of other types of fencing. The material itself raises questions among many regarding safety for others. In fact, there is no danger, but the frequency of use of asbestos cement poles is still lower.

One of the advantages it should be noted is that asbestos-cement supports do not require special care, painting or protection from moisture, they are not subject to corrosion. For mesh fences, pipes with a diameter of up to 70-80 mm are usually used; their weight is light, which makes transportation easier. The supports are very easy to install, concreting them after installation. The chain-link mesh is usually attached using wire or special clamps.

Unlike other materials, asbestos is sensitive to sharp impacts, so installing such supports on the border with the street is not recommended.

Light weight makes this material optimal for demarcating areas and gardens.

5 Calculation of support posts for a fence

Mesh fences are installed using various methods, but most often it is tension method, i.e. the chain-link is simply tensioned between the supports. The height of such fences usually does not exceed 1-2 m, the distance between posts is 2.5 m. It is best to make such fences from mesh and metal pipe round section or wooden posts. If necessary, the fence can be easily moved to another place, but at the same time retains reliability and strength. This option is convenient and profitable, economical and practical.

If metal profile pipes are used for work, then you must immediately foresee how the chain-link mesh will be fastened. The best option is hooks on which the mesh will be stretched. To calculate the height, you should take into account the distance between the ground and the bottom of the mesh, about 5-10 cm, 1-1.5 m section height (or 2 m if necessary). The height from the top edge of the mesh to the end of the pipe is another 20 cm. But installation is not only aboveground part, but also underground.

Typically, to install mesh fences, a point foundation is used, i.e., the pillars are buried 60-70 cm into the ground and filled with concrete. The total length of the post depends on data such as:

• depth below ground level;
• height to the bottom of the mesh;
• section height;
• height to the end of the pipe.

The distance between the posts also affects the calculation of the length; for tall sections, the step between the supports must be reduced. If this is not provided for, then in a strong gust of wind the section may bend.

Mesh fences are the best option for delimiting areas. They are strong, reliable, lightweight and durable. To make the fence stable, you need to pay attention to the posts on which the mesh is stretched. They can be wooden, metal, concrete or asbestos-cement; their characteristics and properties differ, which must be based on when choosing. If you take everything into account, you can get a durable fence with a service life of at least 25 years.

If you need to fence your summer cottage quickly and inexpensively, perfect option– chain-link fence. The material itself has many positive properties, in particular flexibility, which allows you to make rounded turns. Regarding durability, some types last 4–5 years, others – 30 or more.

Installation is carried out in several ways - you can simply manually pull it between the supports or make separate sections using welding. A variety of pillars are used – wooden, metal, brick. The choice of design depends on its purpose. If everything is done thoughtfully, step by step, the work goes easily.

Chain-link mesh - features of different types

All products use black low-carbon metal wire with a diameter of 1–6.5 mm, intertwined with each other. The cells have a strict square or rhombic shape with angles of 60°, sizes from 2.5 to 100 millimeters. The thickness of the material and clearance parameters affect the scope of application. The main purpose is to create fences, but it is also used in construction, cages for breeding poultry and animals.

Some manufacturers pre-treat raw materials, but this is not required condition.Depending on this, there are three types of chain-link:

1. 1. Made from ordinary wire without protection, which leads to rapid corrosion, which shortens the life of the mesh to 4–5 years, after which dismantling is required. Accordingly, this is the most cheap material of all. Mostly used temporarily with the expectation of replacement in the future. Painting will prolong service life, but should be applied immediately after installation and then repeated at least every three years.
2. 2. Galvanized mesh is more expensive, but due to the protective layer it also lasts much longer. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio, and therefore deservedly enjoys the greatest popularity.
3. 3. Relatively recently, plasticized chain-link appeared; it was initially applied to its metal wire base. polymer paint. She is not afraid of precipitation, is more beautiful than her predecessors, has different colors. Mostly green, but there are products with burgundy, black, and light shades.

Confidently advancing in the market Alternative option– Gitter mesh. It is made from high-quality steel rods with a diameter of 3–6 mm, held together by spot welding, which gives reliability and durability - up to 50 years. Appearance resembles a lattice, which is why it got its name.

Individual elements are bent - stiffening ribs are obtained. They simultaneously perform two functions - they give strength and decorativeness. Her approximate cost– 390 rubles per square meter made of metal 4 mm with polymer coating. For 1 m2 of products made from 5 mm rods you will have to pay 550 rubles.

A chain-link fence has the lowest cost of all fencing options. Despite its relative cheapness, if installed carefully, it will decorate any area. If you show your imagination, it is created unique design with your own hands. Possible options:

1. 1. Weaving openwork patterns. It is performed on a coarse mesh with thin wire.
2. 2. Landscaping. Climbing plants are planted along the fence.
3. 3. Artificial flowers. They are woven into cells, made from insulated wire, pieces of plastic.
4. 4. Drawing on a grid with small cells. Aerosol paints create various images.

In addition to the financial component, other advantages of the material also make you choose it:

• light weight, which allows you to do without a massive frame or foundation if necessary;
• resistance to external climatic influences, which different types mesh is different, as well as mechanical - chain-link fencing is difficult to destroy;
• does not create shadows, so all plants feel comfortable even next to the fence;
• does not require any maintenance, except for structures made of ordinary unprotected wire;
• a wide range allows you to make a choice in quality, price range, size - the material is available in every hardware store;
• It is installed quickly, only a sectional fence is a little slower, but in any case, two people are enough and a significant result is visible in a day.

Of course, there are some disadvantages, but they are avoided if you choose high-quality products and install the fence in accordance with the recommended technology.

Preparation - drafting, materials

To build a fence, you will need a mesh, support posts, and everything else, depending on the chosen design. Drawing up a project will allow you to correctly calculate their number. To do this, measure the area around the perimeter and draw a sketch on paper. Access roads, trees, and various buildings are taken into account.

The features of the relief are taken into account in order to determine what is more profitable when it is uneven - to remove the soil or to make a fence in a cascade with differences in height. The drawing indicates the location of gates, gates and pillars.

Installation methods

Preliminary sketches, which so far contain only general data, allow us to calculate the amount of certain materials: mesh, pillars. To find out how much everything else you need, you should stop at one of possible technologies.

The simplest, but not very reliable, involves stretching the mesh along the supports and screwing them to them. A significant drawback is that sometimes it sags. How a temporary solution can be applied. If you insert wire into the cells around the entire perimeter, it will support the fence. At a minimum, it is stretched from above, better - additionally at the bottom, and the most advanced version - also in the middle. Required footage equals the perimeter multiplied by two or three.

The most attractive look is a fence consisting of separate sections. In length they are equal to the gap between the pillars minus a few centimeters of space from the support to the frame, and the height is determined as desired. Corners are used for manufacturing. The required amount of metal is calculated around the perimeter. This is the most labor-intensive and expensive project, but the most reliable and durable. It is used on uneven terrain to create a cascading fence.

A less expensive option is obtained when reinforcement, which is cheaper, is used for the frame instead of corners. It is not necessary to make individual elements from it; it can be stretched in cells from below and above, and welded to supports. Detailed drawings will help determine the quantity required material, location, which is especially important for sectional fencing with changes in terrain.

Grid selection

The main parameters are taken into account: wire diameter, mesh size, coating. The chain-link is supplied in rolls, usually 10 m long, 1.2–1.5 m wide, sometimes two-meter and even 3 or 4 m long. The height of the fence depends on this. The required length is equal to the perimeter. If you plan to use sections, then the size of one is multiplied by total. For significant volumes, correct calculation will save money.

The material and coating were discussed above. Another important indicator that affects the quality of the structure is the cell size, which ranges from 25 to 65 mm. The smaller it is, the more expensive and durable the product. The shape - square or diamond-shaped - does not play a significant role.

They are chosen from a purely practical point of view, taking into account the purposes for which they plan to use it. If for an internal fence where chickens or adult birds will be located, there are one set of parameters, but to prevent larger living creatures from entering, there are others. For an external fence, the indicators are different - the priority is the cross-section of the wire and its type.

The thickness of the metal directly affects the strength. For capital long-term structures, a mesh thinner than 2.5 mm is not used. The combination of low thickness with large cells makes it unsuitable for fencing. It soon becomes deformed, sags, and holes appear.

Taking into account all indicators, it is recommended to use it for external fencing summer cottage chain-link mesh with cells 40–60 mm, with a wire diameter of 2.5 mm, galvanized or plasticized. It has the best price-quality ratio.

Another important sign good stuff– condition of the roll edges along the width. For products manufactured in large enterprises using modern equipment, they are curved, which greatly simplifies installation. And private firms mostly have only a primitive machine, unsuitable for this operation. It is expensive to do them manually, so the buyer has to bend them.

What kind of poles are used?

From all points of view the greatest advantages have metal pipes. To install them, minimal priming or painting of the part that will be in the ground is required. Any fastening can be welded to such poles without any problems. The recommended diameter of the round profile is 60 mm, the cross-section of the rectangular one is 40×60 mm.

You can also find the material at the nearest scrap metal purchase, which will cost much less. Painted pipes with hooks specially designed for sectional fences have appeared on sale. They cost a little more than usual, but there are fewer worries. It is preferable to use a rectangular profile - it is stronger due to the stiffening ribs that are formed due to the geometry. It’s easier to weld fasteners to them and they look more beautiful.

Wood, as a material for supports, is quite common due to its availability. This is the simplest solution, which then often turns into trouble. Wood has a significant drawback - it is not resistant to weather conditions and is destroyed by microorganisms. Dense rocks are very expensive, while soft ones are affordable, but extremely short-lived. True, if you properly treat them against fungi and rot, and constantly paint them, they will last for 20 years.

In practice, wood is used extremely rarely for permanent fences. While the metal parts still last (at least twice as long), it already has to be replaced - troublesome and unwise. But if the quality of the mesh matches the pillars, then it is quite acceptable to buy the material for 70 rubles. per linear meter.

Other types of pipes, such as asbestos-cement pipes, are also used. They are quite durable, relatively inexpensive - for one piece three meters long you will have to pay 350 rubles. It is not easy to mount the mesh on such a support; it must be done special devices in the form of clamps or clamps. Since they are hollow, it will be necessary to install plugs, otherwise the water collected inside will freeze in winter and tear the support.

Brick pillars, so popular today, are rarely used for chain-link fencing. These materials are very different - an impressive massive structure made of brick and light air net. Maybe a sectional fence. In addition, you can’t just put them on the ground - a foundation is required.

Concrete supports are affordable and their strength is beyond doubt. At good quality they can last for centuries. But it’s inconvenient to attach, you have to invent something, and this extra expenses metal and time. In addition, delivery to an area remote from the store will be a problem - in the salon passenger car no luck.

Marking the territory and installing poles

They start by cleaning the area where the fence will go. It’s better to do this in advance and around the entire perimeter, so that later you won’t be distracted or irritated by the garbage lying under your feet. Then pegs are placed in the corners and a cord is pulled between them. Next, mark the locations of the pillars. A distance of 2–2.5 m is recommended, no more, because the mesh tends to sag.

Calculate the number of supports by dividing the length of the straight section of the fence by 2 or 2.5. An integer value is unlikely to work. Then the total length is divided by the average value. For example, a side is 37 meters. If you divide by 2 it’s 18.5 columns, by 2.5 it’s 14.8. An intermediate number of 16 is chosen. When 37 meters are divided into 16 racks, the distance between them is 2.3 m, which is quite acceptable.

Marks are made along the line of the stretched rope. Holes are made with a shovel or drill. It is important that their level is 15–20 cm below the freezing point of the soil. However, not all craftsmen agree with this statement. In each area the indicators are different, but in any case it is not less than one meter. The mesh fence is quite heavy, and if the supports are not deepened enough, it can tilt. In some cases, half a meter is allowed, a little more, but this is determined by the properties of the soil - it is dense, clayey.

If the soil is loose or heaving, install below the freezing depth. Then the pole will definitely not be pushed up in winter. Another way is to make a hole twice as wide, throw small stones and gravel into the space around it and tamp it down. Concrete is placed 40 cm from the top. Drainage is created at the bottom; the supports will definitely not move. It doesn't matter what material they are made of, even wood. This is the most reliable way fixation.

Metal pipes can be hammered with a sledgehammer, but top part must be protected from deformation with a piece of board or plywood. It is sometimes quite difficult to achieve an exact vertical position with this installation method. They use a compromise option - they dig a hole halfway, install a support and finish it to the required depth.

Before installing the pillars, they are prepared. Wooden ones are treated with an antiseptic down to the level of deepening into the soil. Instead, many owners use recycled machine oil, resin or burned at the stake. The metal is cleaned of rust and coated with an inhibitor to prevent corrosion. Can be painted with primer or bitumen.

It is important to follow the installation order, then all the supports will be on the same line. The work is done step by step as follows:

1. 1. Install pillars in the corners. When pulled, they bear the heaviest load, so they are reinforced with spacers. Next in line are the pillars where the fence breaks.
2. 2. They all act as landmarks between which the rope is pulled. Next comes the turn of the gate and wicket. The supports for them are often reinforced and must be concreted.
3. 3. The intermediate posts are placed last, maintaining the same distance between them, which is especially important for a sectional fence. Amendments may need to be made. They monitor not only the location on the same line, but also be sure to control the verticality with a plumb line.

In an area that has a significant slope, it will not be possible to stretch the mesh. There is only one way out of the situation - terracing the relief. At the site of the height difference, a longer support is installed. A mesh is attached to it on one side, and the canvas is separated along the width. The second part is set on a different level. A sectional fence is mounted according to the same principle.

Tension fencing - successive steps

A few days after installing the pillars, when the concrete has hardened, the final stage begins. They start by pulling the cord along the line where the top of the fence will go. It is determined in such a way that the bottom of the net does not touch the ground, but is several centimeters higher. When metal comes into contact with the ground, even galvanized metal, it begins to rust faster.

Next, they provide for attaching the chain-link to the supports. If they are metal, welding is used - with its help, small, 3-4 centimeter sections of rod are installed. The thickness is chosen so that later without special effort bend them. If the pillars are wooden, nails are driven along the entire length every 15–20 cm. For asbestos-cement and concrete, prepare soft wire or plastic clamps.

Start with a corner support. This is explained by the fact that when going around it, it is difficult to tighten the mesh well. We'll have to separate the whole piece, and this extra work. The roll is installed vertically, the outer cells are secured in any way. It is recommended to stretch a long rod into them, which is connected by welding with hooks, nailed, bending them, or wrapped with wire. This will ensure even tension.

The work will require the help of one more person, or better yet two. Unwind the roll to the next post. A piece of reinforcement is threaded into the cells that are located a little further behind it. Two people - one on top, the other below, grab it with their hands and pull it towards themselves. The third attaches the mesh to the support. The process is repeated until the roll runs out, and this can happen between the posts.

Then the cells are connected to each other. This is done simply. Remove the wire from the outermost row, apply the finished fabric to the next one and weave it between them. The result is a continuous mesh without seams. It is better to foresee that it will end so that the remainder is not too short. Then it is laid on the ground and secured in this position, which is more convenient than hanging it in weight.

You may come across advice to carry out the procedure with all the rolls in advance, making one large and continuous sheet. You shouldn't do that. The mesh will get in the way, lying under your feet, and it will be uncomfortable and difficult to work due to the large weight.

To prevent sagging, wire or reinforcement is passed through the cells at the same time, which is fixed on the supports. Make one top row or several depending on the height of the fence. If it is long, tensioners are installed in the form of a hook with a long thread or a lanyard. These are two screws that are screwed into a special long nut with different sides. At the ends they have hooks or clamps where the cable is threaded.

If the antennae on the mesh are straight, they are folded down. This protects against injury and creates additional strength of the canvas. The remaining piece is separated by retreating one cell from the last pillar. All that remains is to paint the supports if you used welding. When wire or clamps are used for fastening, this is done in advance.

Sectional fence - assembly instructions

All preliminary work similar to the tension fencing device. You need to make a frame inside which the mesh is mounted. The material is a corner with shelves 30–40 mm and a thickness of 4–5 mm. Its length parameters are 10–20 cm less than the distance between the supports, and its width differs from their height by 10–15 cm. The metal is cut to size using a grinder and welded into a rectangle.

Unwind the roll, separate the piece, removing the wire. Sometimes the mesh is wider than the section, then the excess is removed with a cutting wheel. But it is advisable to foresee this and calculate everything so as not to create additional worries for yourself - buying a chain-link according to the size of the frame.

It is more difficult to tighten the mesh inside the section than without it. To do the work with your own hands efficiently, do everything step by step:

• rods 4–5 mm thick are threaded into the outermost cells;
• on one side they weld it inside the corner;
• the fittings are installed below and above in the same way;
• they grab it by welding from the side where the mesh is already fixed;
• tension and finally fix the fencing element inside the frame.

Another method involves welding pieces of wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm as often as possible on the inner sides of the corners. A mesh is put on them, then folded over. Here it is important to calculate where to install the hooks. To prevent the fence from sagging, they are welded at the top of each cell.

When the sections are ready, strips of metal 4-5 mm thick are attached to the posts (by welding, on clamps, nailed - depending on the material). On both sides of the supports they should protrude enough to allow the frame to be attached. Two pieces are required on each side, installed at a distance of 20–30 cm from the edges.

A sectional fence is more difficult and more expensive to make than a simple tension fence, but its appearance is much more attractive.

Cost of a chain link fence

Financial costs are determined by the design of the fence and the materials used. There are many companies offering turnkey construction of chain-link fences. The cost of one linear meter is from 320 to 430 rubles, depending on the diameter of the wire and the height of the fence.

Many people prefer to do it themselves, winning in financially. It is not necessary to adhere to any scheme; various combinations are possible - metal with wood, concrete, and the like. The most expensive - sectional fencing, which require a lot of iron. The proposed tables are based on retail prices of large manufacturers as of 2018.

product name	Dimensions		price, rub.
	Cells, mm	Rolls (width and length), m
Chain-link mesh with PVC coating	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	956
		1.8×10	1147
		2.0×10	1274
Chain-link mesh, not galvanized	10×10×1.0	1.0×10	944
	15×15×1.0	1.0×10	596
	20×20×1.4	1.5×10	956
Galvanized mesh	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	1283
		1.8×10	1539
		2.0×10	1711

Cost table for 1 linear meter of metal products

Prices may vary depending on different regions, but the presented data allows you to navigate when choosing a chain-link fencing model.