How to properly place tow in a log house. How to properly caulk a log bathhouse. Included in the set – used for caulking large grooves and cracks between logs

Development construction industry, the emergence of new building and finishing materials almost does not reduce the number of people wanting to build own house made of wood. Moreover, wooden buildings have a lot of advantages in comparison with frame, concrete and brick buildings.

But often many people forget that wooden frame, whether it is built from logs, rounded logs or timber, has such a significant drawback or, rather, feature as shrinkage and high deformability wooden elements. For this reason, construction wooden house is always more time consuming - first you need to wait for the frame to shrink, and only then can you start finishing work.

But shrinkage leads not only to changes in the geometric dimensions of the logs, but also to the appearance of cracks and leaks, which subsequently need to be sealed. Without this, the house will be cold, damp and uncomfortable. To eliminate any defects that have arisen, the walls are caulked.

What is caulking

The process of caulking is to eliminate gaps between the elements of the log house thermal insulation material, which is designed to prevent cold air flows from entering the house.

This one would seem simple work requires patience, accuracy and quite a lot of time from the performer. Caulking technology has remained virtually unchanged over the past centuries, so many developers prefer not to do caulking themselves, but use the labor of professionals.

The caulking process has several purposes:

  • correction of defects made during the assembly of the log house;
  • thermal insulation of the house by eliminating cold bridges;
  • elimination of gaps that inevitably arise in the crowns, corners of the house, between window and door frames and log house;
  • giving the house a finished look.

You should not think that it is enough to caulk the house once and all problems will be solved.

Only at the first stage - during the construction of a house - caulking is carried out twice:

  • after the initial shrinkage of the log house (about six months after its assembly);
  • before starting finishing work.

Materials used for caulking a log house

In ancient times, the main materials for insulating a log house were moss and wool. They are still used today, but other materials have appeared on the market, varying in price and raw materials. Therefore, anyone, even those limited in funds, will be able to find a suitable material for insulating their home.

In order to choose the right material for caulking, you need to know the properties that it should have (or at least most of them).

These are properties such as:

All materials used to insulate a log house are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic.

Natural insulation materials include:

  • tow;
  • hemp;
  • felt;
  • flax wool;
  • jute.

Artificial insulation materials include:

  • mineral wool;
  • foamed polyethylene;
  • foam;
  • sealants.

Of the artificial insulation materials, only sealants deserve attention.

Other insulation materials should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences:

  • mineral wool good insulation, but it is afraid of moisture and can lead to the development allergic reactions in some people;
  • foamed polyethylene is a closed-cell material that retains heat well, but does not breathe, which can lead to rotting of the log crowns;
  • foam rubber and other materials with open pores are not able to protect the seam from freezing, since air and water get into the pores (in addition, foam rubber sags under the weight of logs and decomposes in the light).

Seams can also be sealed using sealants. This is a much simpler and faster process than traditional caulking. Some sealants (for example, Neomid) have good adhesion to wood and high elasticity. Sealants are applied using a construction gun. The seams obtained in this way are not afraid of moisture, do not decompose under the influence of UV rays, do not turn yellow or mold.

But, no matter how good modern sealants are, most owners prefer to caulk their homes using natural materials.

Natural interventional insulation

Moss- This is the oldest and to this day quite effective insulation for log houses.

It has such necessary properties as:

  • excellent hygroscopicity (capable of absorbing moisture in a volume 20 times its own);
  • the presence of lignin in the structure of the fibers, which resists deterioration of both the moss itself and the logs;
  • bactericidal properties - moss is able to destroy microorganisms.

Before caulking, dry moss is moistened in a solution prepared from 200 g of soap and 500 g of oil, dissolved in a bucket of water. Of all the types of moss, only two types are used as caulk: forest moss (cuckoo flax) and red swamp moss.

The moss is not laid after the frame is assembled, but during it. To do this, the moistened material is distributed in a layer of at least 10 cm along the crowns with the stems across. The ends of the stems, 10–15 cm long, are released outside for subsequent caulking. The disadvantage of this method is the high labor intensity of preparing moss (it must be cleaned of soil residues and dried) and quite difficult process caulking.

Tow It can be used, but it is not advisable.

There are several reasons:

  • it is difficult to twist tow so that it does not fall apart;
  • it absorbs water vapor well, so it is almost always wet and deteriorates;
  • in the heat, the material crumbles into dust;
  • Birds love tow and use it to build nests.

Thus, the log house will have to be caulked too often. The tow is first treated with a formaldehyde solution and then dried. This protects it from pests. Working with tow is not very convenient, because it is too hard and it is very difficult to achieve a dense filling of the seam.

Hemp– made from hemp stem fibers, which are highly durable and resistant to various influences.

Feltnon-woven material, made from felted wool. For caulking, it is cut into strips. Needs pre-treatment protective compounds, because it is easily damaged by moths and other pests. Currently, you can purchase impregnated felt that has already been treated with bitumen or resin.

Linen– it is advisable to use dry wood or laminated veneer lumber to insulate the house. The material does not have high density and is afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, which can cause rotting processes in it. The shade of flax caulk is usually gray.

Lnovatin– made from flax and jute, which together form good insulation. The material is resistant to external influences, has good density and the ability to restore its size. After the wood dries, leading to the formation of cracks, the material reliably fills all the resulting voids.

Jute- its properties resemble moss, but it is much easier to work with. The material has sufficient density to keep the cold out and keep the heat out of the house. Jute is a breathable, hygroscopic material. Besides all these positive properties jute has a beautiful golden hue, which greatly decorates the house.

Insulation technology for log walls

From ancient times to this day for insulation wooden walls two main technologies are used.

Stretching - used mainly for caulking narrow cracks:

  • a strand is formed from the selected insulation, placed in the slot and pushed through with a spatula, leaving an edge of the material about 5 cm long outside;
  • then a thin roll is rolled out of the insulation, which is wrapped into the left free edge of the insulation and carefully, using a chisel, hammered into the groove.

Included in the set - used for caulking large grooves and cracks between logs:

  • the sealant is twisted into long strands up to 15 mm thick and wound into balls;
  • then it is carefully unwound, while simultaneously hammering the material into the cracks using a caulking chisel;
  • if there are gaps different sizes, then for larger ones the required thickness of the insulation is gained by twisting it into loops.

Tools for work:

  • caulks (they are different: type-setting, curved, broken);
  • wooden mallet or rubber hammer with a wide striker.

Caulking tools have a steel blade that must be soft and smooth, otherwise it may damage the seal.

There is almost no reduction in the number of people wanting to build their own house made of wood. Moreover, wooden buildings have many advantages in comparison with frame, concrete and brick buildings.

But often many people forget that a wooden frame, whether it is built from logs, rounded logs or beams, has such a significant drawback or, rather, a feature as shrinkage and high deformability of wooden elements. For this reason, the construction of a wooden house always takes quite a long time - first you need to wait for the frame to shrink, and only then can you begin finishing work.

But it leads not only to a change in the geometric dimensions of the logs, but also to the appearance of cracks and leaks, which subsequently need to be sealed. Without this, the house will be cold, damp and uncomfortable. To eliminate any defects that have arisen, the walls are caulked.

What is caulking

The process of caulking consists of eliminating gaps between the elements of a log house with thermal insulation material, which is designed to prevent cold air flows from penetrating into the house.

This seemingly simple work requires patience, accuracy and quite a lot of time from the performer. Caulking technology has remained virtually unchanged over the past centuries, so many developers prefer not to do caulking themselves, but use the labor of professionals.

The caulking process has several purposes:

  • correction of defects made during the assembly of the log house;
  • by eliminating cold bridges;
  • elimination of gaps that inevitably arise in the crowns, corners of the house, between windows and the frame;
  • giving the house a finished look.

You should not think that it is enough to caulk the house once and all problems will be solved.

Only at the first stage - during the construction of a house - caulking is carried out twice:

  • after the initial shrinkage of the log house (about six months after its assembly);
  • before starting finishing work.

In ancient times, the main materials for insulating a log house were moss and wool. They are still used today, but other materials have appeared on the market, varying in price and raw materials. Therefore, anyone, even those limited in funds, will be able to find a suitable material for insulating their home.

In order to choose the right material for caulking, you need to know the properties that it should have (or at least most of them).

These are properties such as:

All materials used to insulate a log house are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic.

  • tow;
  • hemp;
  • felt;
  • flax wool;
  • jute.

  • mineral wool;
  • foamed polyethylene;
  • foam;
  • sealants.

Of the artificial insulation materials, only sealants deserve attention.

Other insulation materials should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences:

  • good insulation, but it is afraid of moisture and can lead to the development of allergic reactions in some people;
  • foamed polyethylene is a closed-cell material that retains heat well, but does not breathe, which can lead to rotting of the log crowns;
  • foam rubber and other materials with open pores are not able to protect the seam from freezing, since air and water get into the pores (in addition, foam rubber sags under the weight of logs and decomposes in the light).

Seams can also be sealed using sealants. This is a much simpler and faster process than traditional caulking. Some sealants (for example, Neomid) have good adhesion to wood and high elasticity. Sealants are applied using a construction gun. The seams obtained in this way are not afraid of moisture, do not decompose under the influence of UV rays, do not turn yellow or mold.

But, no matter how good modern sealants are, most owners prefer to caulk their homes using natural materials.

Moss- This is the oldest and to this day quite effective insulation for log houses.

It has such necessary properties as:

  • excellent hygroscopicity (capable of absorbing moisture in a volume 20 times its own);
  • the presence of lignin in the structure of the fibers, which resists deterioration of both the moss itself and the logs;
  • bactericidal properties - moss is able to destroy microorganisms.

Before caulking, dry moss is moistened in a solution prepared from 200 g of soap and 500 g of oil, dissolved in a bucket of water. Of all the types of moss, only two types are used as caulk: forest moss (cuckoo flax) and red swamp moss.

The moss is not laid after the frame is assembled, but during it. To do this, the moistened material is distributed in a layer of at least 10 cm along the crowns with the stems across. The ends of the stems, 10–15 cm long, are released outside for subsequent caulking. The disadvantage of this method is the high labor intensity of preparing the moss (it must be cleared of soil residues and dried) and the rather complex process of caulking.

Tow It can be used, but it is not advisable.

There are several reasons:

  • it is difficult to twist tow so that it does not fall apart;
  • it absorbs water vapor well, so it is almost always wet and deteriorates;
  • in the heat, the material crumbles into dust;
  • Birds love tow and use it to build nests.

Thus, the log house will have to be caulked too often. The tow is first treated with a formaldehyde solution and then dried. This protects it from pests. Working with tow is not very convenient, because it is too hard and it is very difficult to achieve a dense filling of the seam.

Hemp– made from hemp stem fibers, which are highly durable and resistant to various influences.

– non-woven material made from felted wool. For caulking, it is cut into strips. It requires pre-treatment with protective compounds, as it is easily damaged by moths and other pests. Currently, you can purchase impregnated felt that has already been treated with bitumen or resin.

Linen– it is advisable to use dry wood or wood to insulate the house. The material does not have a high density and is afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, which can cause rotting processes in it. The shade of flax caulk is usually gray.

Lnovatin– made from flax and jute, which together form good insulation. The material is resistant to external influences, has good density and the ability to restore its dimensions. After the wood dries, leading to the formation of cracks, the material reliably fills all the resulting voids.

Jute- its properties resemble moss, but it is much easier to work with. The material has sufficient density to keep the cold out and keep the heat out of the house. Jute is a breathable, hygroscopic material. In addition to all these positive properties, jute has a beautiful golden hue, which greatly decorates the house.

Insulation technology for log walls

From ancient times to this day, two main technologies have been used to insulate wooden walls.

Stretching - used mainly for caulking narrow cracks:

  • a strand is formed from the selected insulation, placed in the slot and pushed through with a spatula, leaving an edge of the material about 5 cm long outside;
  • then a thin roll is rolled out of the insulation, which is wrapped into the left free edge of the insulation and carefully, using a chisel, hammered into the groove.

Included in the set - used for caulking large grooves and cracks between logs:

  • the sealant is twisted into long strands up to 15 mm thick and wound into balls;
  • then it is carefully unwound, while simultaneously hammering the material into the cracks using a caulking chisel;
  • if the gaps have different sizes, then for larger ones the required thickness of the insulation is gained by twisting it into loops.

  • caulks (they are different: type-setting, curved, broken);
  • wooden mallet or rubber mallet with a wide head.

Caulking tools have a steel blade that must be soft and smooth, otherwise it may damage the seal.

Work order:

  • The caulking process itself begins from below, from the very lower crown and continues upward. It must be taken into account that caulking the seams changes the height of the log house.
  • One seam must be caulked along the entire perimeter of the log house, first from the outside, then from the inside. This will avoid distortions in the walls of the house.
  • Then the next highest seam is processed. And so on until the very top.

Caulk separate walls This is not possible, this may cause the wall to deviate from the vertical.

As you can see, the process of caulking a log house is not that complicated, but it requires great care and careful execution of all operations. Then your home will be protected from atmospheric influences, and the facades of the house will take on a finished look.

Often, when constructing a bathhouse, timber or logs are used, which are simply placed one on top of the other. If the selected material is not of stable quality, then small holes can be seen in between them. It can be very difficult to seal them. Over time, these gaps will only increase. This occurs due to the influence of precipitation on them, high temperatures, dryness or humidity.

You can caulk the log house only after it has completely settled and dried.

Logs can become very dry and deformed. Heat will quickly escape through the cracks formed. During the cold season, ice may appear outside, which can lead to rotting and damage to the wood. Therefore, it is necessary to caulk the bathhouse. As a result of such manipulations, the crowns of the log house are sealed with fibrous materials. How to properly caulk a bathhouse will be discussed below.

Features of the construction process

A set of tools for caulking work: 1 – stacked caulking, 2 – crooked caulking, 3 – road worker, 4 – split caulking, 5 – mallet or mushel.

Basically, the construction of a log house can be described in the following stages:

  • preparation of the log house: assembling the crowns into a single structure;
  • designation of log markings and frame disassembly;
  • moving the block to permanent place, assembly;
  • insulation of the bath. Sealing gaps.

Great attention should be paid to caulking the building. And not just because it's beautiful. Such a seemingly insignificant and insignificant process of insulating a building is actually the main factor in the development of its good quality and heat retention.

It is best to deal with the insulation of the log house at the time of construction of the bathhouse. A later process will be associated with significant material costs. Caulking this room is an integral attribute during its construction. Such a log bathhouse will delight you with its warmth and solidity.

Insulation of a building is a process that is associated with the careful placement of thermal insulation materials. You can seal cracks using special tools. This is a wooden spatula with a pointed base at the end, a beater or other devices. Properly performed insulation of a bathhouse will affect its durability. If the insulation of a building is not carried out correctly, the wood may rot and be eaten by insect pests.

Return to contents

“Stretched” caulk is used for cracks; stacked caulk is used to compact felt.

Caulking a building is usually done in two steps. The first stage is associated with the moment of initial construction of this building, the second is done after a year, when the natural process of shrinkage of the bathhouse frame occurs.

You can also insulate the room after 5 years, as soon as the bathhouse is fixed in its place. In this case, we can talk about the completion of the process of caulking the bath. The moment of thermal insulation of the building will be completed.

It is necessary to insulate a bathhouse (log house) both from the outside and from the inside of the building. Under this condition, good results can be achieved.

Needed in a certain direction. You should start with the lower logs, gradually moving to the upper points.

The log house of the bathhouse must be completely insulated.

Indeed, during the work process, the building can rise to a certain height. And this will lead to the curvature of the building. Work on insulating a building usually begins with outside building, gradually moving to the interior.

No less important point There will be insulation in the corners of the bathhouse. This is a very important point.

They usually start caulking a log house using the most common methods. This is “set” and “stretched”. In the first case, it is possible to insulate the interslot space in logs that have small defects, in the second - in the presence of large holes.

Insulation using the “stretch” method involves the formation of strands of insulating material the right size. Then it is installed in a transverse position relative to the fibers and inserted with a spatula into the gaps. The edges of such strands should be visible. The tow joints are driven inwards using a chisel.

Caulk external walls The bathhouse begins with the lower logs, gradually moving to the upper beams.

Insulating a bathhouse using the “set” method: tow is rolled up thin stripes, and they are rolled into a skein. Using a chisel, the material is hammered first at the top, then at the bottom of the crack. High-quality caulking of a log bathhouse can be carried out in a short time, knowing the main points of the work.

Insulation of a building should begin with the choice suitable material. These include tow, hemp, felt, and sphagnum moss. When choosing moss, you should focus on its dryness. But it shouldn't crumble.

Mixing moss with tow gives a good insulating effect. Felt is often soaked in resin, bitumen or formaldehyde, then dried. Such actions will help make it reliable, capable of protecting the bathhouse from harmful insects.

Each of listed options are not durable, because they are capable of strongly absorbing moisture, and this is an indispensable path to rotting of the bathhouse frame. Jute and linen wool are good options for innovative options.

The second option is a tape made from low-quality flax or its waste. The basis of jute is natural material. It is durable and remains dry under any external conditions. These foundations are not capable of rotting, breaking or crumbling, and insects do not eat them.

The seams are filled evenly with jute, but it is particularly rigid, which means it can break easily. Glass wool can be used as an insulating material. It is rolled out into a small strip and fixed with a stapler. Jute is almost always mixed with flax fibers. The result is a dense insulating material that is resistant to high temperatures and unattractive to pests.

Caulking the walls of a log house is a labor-intensive process that, if its technology is followed, will ensure the preservation of heat in the house in cold weather. Detailed analysis work sequences, the right choice The tools and materials presented in this article will help you insulate the seams with your own hands.

Tools

The main tools for caulking seams are spatulas (caulkers) and a mallet. The blades are made of wood or steel. The wood of the caulk should be softer than the material of the logs, otherwise marks will remain on the walls. With time working surface The wooden caulking becomes shaggy, then it is replaced with a new one.

Metal caulks are used for corner cuts, where it is especially important to fill inner space bowls. Using a mallet, gently tapping the caulk, compact the insulation bead and push it inside the seam.

Material selection

For insulation and sealing of seams in log walls ah applies natural material(moss, jute, tow, etc.) and modern artificial polyurethane foam, polyethylene foam, mineral wool and other inter-crown insulation.

Sphagnum moss

Moss was preferred in the past to insulate the joints of logs. Sphagnum and cuckoo flax (red flax) were laid in the seams of the log house. Sphagnum moss was fluffed up and laid across the logs in several layers (5-10 cm) hanging down to 5 cm from the seam. Cuckoo flax was placed along the crown and also in several layers (5-10 cm) with overlapping joints.

Before laying, the moss is wetted, and it dries in the wall structure. Absorbing moisture, moss quickly releases it and does not rot. By his natural qualities he is very good antiseptic, therefore also protects wood from biocorrosion. Its disadvantages include the difficulty of uniformly creating a uniform thickness of the seam.

Jute rope

Jute fiber is made from the jute plant, which belongs to the linden family. Insulation for caulking made of jute is stronger, more durable and moderately hygroscopic. Even with high humidity premises, for example, in baths, jute absorbs no more than 20% of moisture.

Tow

Tow is tangled flax fiber. It is made from waste obtained by scuffing and crushing flax. It should not contain foreign impurities; a small amount of brome (the woody part of the stem) is allowed. Tow for caulking can only be used when it is dry, soft and without a putrefactive odor. The inter-crown seam of tow should be 0.8-1.2 cm.

Hemp

Previously, hemp was also used for caulking log houses. It was obtained by soaking hemp stems for a long time in running water(up to 2-3 years). It is distinguished by its fiber strength, resistance to decay and exposure to sunlight. Today, hemp products are also represented in the range of building materials.

Modern materials

The use of artificial materials for caulking seams is becoming increasingly widespread. These include mineral wool fiber, polyethylene foam, and inter-crown sealants. Their advantages are: bio- and moisture resistance, elasticity and vapor permeability, which is important for wood. Self-expanding sealing cords seal the seam almost perfectly.

Seam caulking technology

The entire process of caulking log walls can be divided into two stages. During the assembly of the log house, the first stage is carried out. The insulation is spread over the top of the mounted log. For the convenience of caulking, felt tape is used, the raw materials for which can be flax, jute, or hemp.

After installing the logs, the hanging ends of the seal are simply wrapped into their joints. Caulking of the seams of a log house is done in two ways: “stretched” and “set”. During construction log house The most commonly used method of compaction is “stretching”. To do this, the free edges of the insulation are rolled up with a roller, which is pressed into the seam. The width of the roller should be 1-2 cm.

In the case of loose fibrous insulation (moss, tow), when folding the roller, it is important to select adjacent hanging ends, constantly twisting them with the previous ones to obtain an even and durable seam.

“To set” the seam is usually sealed during the second caulking, which is done after the building has settled (after 1-2 years). Walls made of logs give rise to sediment due to compression of the insulation in the seams and shrinkage of the wood.

When the ends of the insulation are not enough to create a bead or the seams are too wide during the initial caulking, the “set” method is used. To do this, prepare a bundle in advance from the selected sealant; you can use a ready-made rope or rope required thickness. Loops are made into wide seams from the rope, which are driven into the space between the logs until the required compaction is achieved.

Work on caulking a log house always starts from the lower crown and is carried out along the entire perimeter of the seam. First compact outer side pairing the logs, and then the inner one. You can move on to the next crown only when the entire previous one has been caulked.

The rope or roller is secured in the seam using caulk, which is tapped first top part insulation, then the bottom and only then the middle. If necessary, use a mallet, hitting the end of the caulking handle with it.

When sealing the seams of a log house, it is necessary to constantly check the horizontalness of the logs and the verticality of the walls. A seemingly simple compaction process may well distort the situation individual parts house structures, move them from their original location or raise them.

Secondary caulk

Modern technologies for protecting the connection of logs in a log house provide for sealing the seam (warm seam). The advantage of this solution for seams in wooden houses are:

The seams are sealed like re-caulking. Device technology " warm seam» mainly consists of the following steps:

  1. Preparing the surface of the insulated seam. To do this, clean the logs at the work site from dust, dirt, and grease stains. The sealant may not adhere to walls coated with varnish, wax, or any oils. It is better to test the adhesion of the sealant to the treated surface of the log before starting work.
  2. Installation of a sealing cord, for example, made of extruded polyethylene. It cannot be glued to the wall, it is simply inserted into the seam.
  3. Applying sealant. Before starting to cover the cord and part of the logs with sealant wooden surface moisturize. Can be glued on both sides relative to the seam masking tape to ensure uniform coverage width. Depending on the packaging, the sealant is applied either with a spatula or mounting gun. The layer thickness is allowed to be at least 4 mm, but not more than 10 mm.
  4. Seam formation. The seam is smoothed and formed using a suitable spatula within 15 minutes after applying the sealant. You can then remove the masking tapes. Excess substance is cleaned with a damp cloth or sponge.

Patience and thoroughness in performing caulking work will be fully justified by the durability of the structure and warm walls at home, so that you don’t have to seal the cracks later. Choice effective way Insulation of log seams and a sufficient amount of material for this will significantly reduce heating costs in cold weather.

Comments: 0

IN modern world the meaning of the expression - my home is my fortress - takes on slightly different shades and is not limited only to the strength of the walls and the reliability of the castle. Increasingly, in order to increase productivity and reduce the cost of materials, manufacturers are resorting to dubious schemes, adding various fillers to their construction products, which, when decomposed, release harmful substances.

This factor, together with the unfavorable environmental situation of the current world, makes a negative contribution and can pose a real danger to human health.



To protect yourself and your loved ones, and also to exclude the possibility harmful effects, it is necessary to use proven and reliable materials that will help in the construction of your home and various outbuildings. Wood is not only an environmentally friendly product of nature, but its use will contribute to the long-term presence of any building on the list of fashionable and modern objects. The reason for this factor is that, despite centuries of experience in using wood, this material is a classic, and has long earned its place of honor, which cannot be influenced by either alternative opinions or fashion trends.

In addition to the environmental and external components, one of the main advantages of wood is its thermal conductivity. Houses made from this material are distinguished by the warmth of their rooms and internal comfort. But in order to achieve such indicators, it is necessary to carry out a certain type of work, this especially needs to be done when the construction of a log house is carried out using logs, since the cracks and various holes are a constant companion of such walls.

Despite the fact that most experts try to eliminate this issue during the construction of a log house, it still remains relevant for a long time. The reason for this phenomenon is the fact that the insulating layer laid between the wooden elements loses its properties and original advantages during the shrinkage of the house. For this reason, it is necessary to additionally caulk the entire building. It is better to carry out this process in 3 stages, which fit within the following time frame:
immediately after construction;
1-2 years after its completion;
4-6 years after the construction of the house.



The need for repeated actions lies in the tendency of wood to change its physical parameters under the influence of external influences. Wood can change its configuration not only due to pressure during the shrinkage process, but also due to changes in moisture levels, leading to the formation of cracks.

Among the many materials that can be used in these matters, the most commonly used and have sufficient quantity advantage is tow. So the question is: How to properly caulk a log house with tow? – quite often found among people who dream of their own home made of wood.

To successfully resolve this issue and do everything efficiently and reliably, you need to take into account several rules leading to achieving the desired result.
You need to caulk along the entire perimeter, starting from the lower levels. Intensifying the process in one direction can lead to displacement of the frame and aggravate the situation.
It is best to caulk before final finishing buildings because this process may slightly raise its overall level. This technique will allow for more rational use finishing material, and will eliminate the danger of having to redo such work.
After insulating the outer perimeter of the building, it is imperative to switch to inner side, which will strengthen the overall positive picture.



These points, in most cases, are the main guarantee of a high-quality result and solution to the question: How to properly caulk a log house with tow.

Besides general rules It is worth familiarizing yourself with the technology of insulation using tow. You can caulk with this material in 2 ways - in a stretch and in a set.

In the first case, a strand is made from tow, which is applied to the problem area. The strand is driven into the slot using a special tool called a caulking tool. The caulking chisel, as this product may also be called, really has the shape of a chisel with hallmark in the form of a wide and flat ending. The tow should be packed as tightly and deeply as possible, without the possibility of self-extraction. The edges of the insulation should protrude from the wall at a distance of 5-6 cm, as they will serve link for the next formation, the edges of which will need to be intertwined and driven into the gap.

Insulation in a set is used in cases where the dimensions of the cracks are large enough, and the use of strands does not lead to positive result, as a result of which it is inappropriate. In this case, the tow is divided into separate strands, from which a roller is subsequently formed. This roller is driven into the crack, and this process must begin from the upper part, and the lower part is sent into the depth of the crack in last resort. Thanks to this technique, a seal of tow will be formed on the surface of the tree, which will be difficult to remove and also to influence mechanically.