How to quickly and correctly plaster walls with your own hands: video. How to properly plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner: step-by-step instructions, video Where to start plastering walls

Self-construction and repairs require a careful approach to the implementation of the plan. One common theme is,how to plaster walls with your own hands. Video for a beginnerwill help you cope with the task. Additionally, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the theory of work technique.

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Why are these events needed?

Plastering walls It is not visible in the overall design composition of the room, but it is impossible without it. The presented equipment is necessary to insulate the building and protect it from the influence of the external environment. Moreover, plaster can be an excellent protection against fire, since modern building materials cannot prevent rapid combustion.

When considering plastering walls, we can highlight the following points of need for the process:

  • Using a layer of plaster, “rough” walls and ceilings are leveled, which are then simply painted or whitewashed.
  • During the construction of houses, partition seams are formed, and numerous, albeit minor, masonry defects can be found. This can be easily fixed.
  • The main task of plastering for the common man is to pre-level the walls for decorative works– wallpapering, surface painting.

Main types of mixtures and their preparation

DIY plastercarried out by dissolving ready-made mixtures purchased in construction stores.

The choice of products is huge, so you need to know exactly which one is best to use so as not to provoke a collapse - yes, a poor-quality mixture or incorrectly applied plaster can simply move away from the wall.

This happens in case of a mistake, either immediately after application and drying, or after the wall is finished, which is typical when it freezes in winter. To avoid such problems, you should study everything possible types plaster mixtures.

Gypsum and cement mortars are suitable for finishing walls, each of which, in addition to the main component, includes binders and secondary additives that perform one or another function. Mixtures in powder form are packaged in sealed bags, so their shelf life exceeds several years.

Gypsum mixture

It has a low cost, but at the same time a high adhesion rate.Adhesive properties are the degree of adhesion to the surface and rapid hardening.Due to the presented indicators, this type of finishing is used to level ceilings. The gypsum mixture contains gypsum and fine sand. Sand makes it possible to achieve the most even, smooth surface, so these mixtures are used for finishing walls for painting or decorative treatment.

The advantages of the gypsum mixture are the following:

  • the finished wall has good thermal insulation;
  • gypsum can absorb excess liquid and then repel it;
  • plaster is excellent for residential premises where a constant microclimate is maintained;
  • gypsum mixture can prevent the spread of bacteria and fungi.

Gypsum-based plaster hardens quickly, so special substances are added to it to prolong this process.

Important!Despite positive properties, gypsum plaster is not recommended for use in rooms with a constantly changing microclimate. These include bathrooms and verandas of private houses.

Cement mixture

Its basis is cement, but for better adhesion and quality of installation, sand or crushed limestone is used.

Sand can be of a coarse fraction, it all depends on the amount of added limestone and cement in general.

Plastering walls can be done with other compounds that are easy to make yourself. The proportions of the mixtures are presented in the table.

If there is no exact data on the proportions of mixing the main substances to create a certain type of plaster, it is better to purchase a ready-made package. Manufacturers always indicate the features and characteristics of their products.

Preliminary surface priming

Having decided, how to plaster walls, proceed to priming the surface - a procedure that makes it possible to further reduce the absorption of moisture by the plaster.The primer is made with special compounds that prevent the development of fungi and bacteria on the wall.It is designed to improve adhesiveness, whereby plastering walls with your own handsit will be more thorough.

For primers, special dry mixtures are used, which are diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the packages. The following is done:

  1. The roller is moistened with a special diluted primer.
  2. It is important to squeeze the roller as best as possible - the mixture should not drip.
  3. The wall is treated with a primer using simple roller movements - first horizontal, then vertical.
  4. If the primer is absorbed into the wall quickly, then you should wait until it dries completely and prime again.

Applying plaster to the walloccurs only after it has completely dried - sometimes you have to wait 1-2 days for this. Of course, before priming you should carry out the procedure preliminary preparation surfaces.

Surface preparation

The only thing do-it-yourself plaster ruleconsists of mandatory preliminary preparation. This procedure includes 3 main processes - surface cleaning, wall marking and priming. The presented technology impliesplastering walls using beacons with your own hands.

Preliminary work is carried out in several stages:

  1. First, you need to get rid of large defects on the wall - often these are large cement leaks that arise due to improper laying of bricks, foam blocks and other building materials. If there is paint or decorative plaster on the walls, it must be knocked down.
  2. Then the entire wall is tapped with a hammer - this ensures that the weak points are shed, which in the future will prevent the new layer of plaster from cracking or peeling off from the surface.
  3. If there are metal elements on the wall - nails and screws - remove them. If reinforcement is available, use a grinder. It is better to treat the remaining parts with an anti-corrosion compound.
  4. DIY plastering worknecessarily carried out with a large splash of diluted compounds, so it is better to cover the furniture with polyethylene.
  5. Next, the walls are checked at the building level to determine the presence of deviations. All places with depressions and other irregularities are marked with a marker.
  6. If there are holes larger than 3 cm, they must first be sealed with putty. If there are bumps, use a grinder to achieve maximum leveling.
  7. Step back 30 cm from the corner and draw a straight vertical line using a building level. Next, they retreat 1.5 m from the line and draw another line.
  8. On all surfaces of the walls, step back 15 cm from the floor and ceiling along the drawn line and drill a hole. A self-tapping screw is screwed into it.
  9. Now you should pull the thread from corner to corner on the self-tapping screws - you will get 2 horizontal lines on each wall. These lines will intersect the vertical ones. At the intersections, marks are made and holes are drilled for dowels without self-tapping screws.
  10. Next, proceed to the priming procedure as described above.


Beacons help track the thickness of the applied layer of plaster mixture.

With their help, precise leveling of the treated surface is carried out.

This significantly speeds up the work process and also makes it high quality.

Beacons are purchased ready-made in construction stores.

These are metal layers that have a mark that determines the thickness of the plaster layer.

Materials

Process, how to plaster a wall,depends on its type - from what building materials it is built. Let's take a closer look at three types of walls:

  • Brick - cement-based compositions are used for them. Additionally, lime is added to them to make the mixture plastic and moisture resistant. The thickness of the layer should not exceed 3 cm.A reinforcing network is first attached to the wall to strengthen the layer and improve adhesion - this will improveplastering walls with cement mortar with your own hands.
  • Concrete - require a mandatory primer with a mixture containing quartz sand and flour. For the main process, a cement mortar is used, to which gypsum or lime can be added. If the concrete has a characteristic roughness, use mixtures without additional inclusions. Adhesion can be improved by treating the wall with Betonkontakt.
  • Cellular concrete simplifies the procedure for finishing walls. First, you should treat the surfaces with deeply penetrating impregnation, and then plaster them using solutions - gypsum, lime or concrete.

Attention!Construction stores offer a huge number of various mixtures that contain different compositions, intended for processing a particular surface. The packages indicate the characteristics and dilution methods: the contents are simply poured with water in a certain proportion, which is also indicated on the bags. If you follow the instructions, there will be no problems with diluting the mixtures.

Using cement mortar

Plastering a brick wall with your own handsusing cement mortar begins with pre-treatment of surfaces, which was described above. As soon as the preparation for installing the beacons is completed and the walls are primed, you can begin the following activities:


  1. Self-tapping screws screwed into the upper holes are Starting point in working with the rule. The rule is applied to the screws so that a vertical line is formed - this will be a level indicating to what depth the screw will have to be screwed in from below.
  2. After this, 2 diagonal lines are pulled between the fastener heads and a beacon is placed under them. If it touches the thread, then check the level of the screws screwed in. Once everything is aligned, begin to tension the cord between the upper and lower screws.
  3. Next, cut off the beacon profile of the required length along the vertical line of the screws and an additional 5 cm protrusion on both sides.
  4. Then the prepared mortar is laid out on a line of plaster along the marked vertical line. The beacon is pressed into the cement to a depth in accordance with the located screws.
  5. The location of the beacons is checked with a level and the screws are removed.
  6. After waiting for the mortar to dry on the wall, they begin to completely plaster the walls using the “Spray” method.
  1. If the wall is concrete or brick, first moisten its surface with a roller or sponge.
  2. Next, using a spatula, they begin to spread the solution onto the wall from bottom to top. For beginners, this technique will be difficult, but it can be easily mastered through training, which takes no more than 10-15 minutes.
  3. If the solution cape does not work out, you can use in a simple way– scoop the mixture onto a wide spatula and carefully transfer it to the surface, gradually stretching the amount into an even layer.
  4. By first applying the plaster to small area walls, take the rule and, setting them perpendicular to the beacons, begin to draw a line in a zigzag movement from bottom to top. This will help cut off excess solution.
  5. When working with the rule, bubbles may form - these areas must be cleared of the mixture, and then applied again, carefully leveling the wall.
  6. Next, the rule is to draw a straight vertical line again - this is done at least 5 times, achieving a perfectly flat surface.\

Advice! Do-it-yourself plastering of wall cornerscarried out quickly using a small spatula. They apply the solution and carefully distribute it as evenly as possible with the main canvas. If there is a bump, it is sanded with sandpaper after the solution has dried. The angle is formed with a square.

What is grout

Grout is do-it-yourself finishing plaster of walls, which is designed to remove small errors on treated surfaces. Grouting is carried out with special brushes similar to sandpaper. Grouting should be done immediately after the plaster layer has set, but before it dries completely. The grater is pre-moistened with water if the solution is completely dry.Before working, you should wear a respirator, since the process generates a lot of dust.

The grout can be dry or with mortar. If you choose the grouting method with mortar, then first make a plaster solution - thinner than what was used for the main process. The solution is scooped onto a grater in small quantities and the surfaces are leveled.

The issue has been discussed in detail above.what is needed for plastering walls, as well as all the nuances independent work subject to certain existing features. If you follow the recommendations and rules, there will be no problems with the independent surface finishing process.

Plastering walls with your own hands is a procedure that is recommended to be carried out by craftsmen who only have experience in carrying out such types of finishing work. If there is none, you should identify a small area of ​​the working surface and practice on it.

Don't try to save money: sometimes it's easier to hire a professional team to do the job.

Types of coatings

Before you begin finishing work, you should learn more about the accepted standards. This can prevent you from doing the wrong thing. Construction standards SNiP III-21−73 define 3 types of coatings:

Features of the work

Depending on the type of material from which they were built load-bearing walls, as well as where they are located (inside or outside), they are applied different types mixtures and application techniques. Before starting finishing work, it is necessary to clarify certain nuances of finishing various surfaces.

Brick wall

This type of wall is usually finished with cement-based mortar. In some cases, lime is added to them to create a higher effect of plasticity and moisture resistance of the solution. The thickness of the plaster layer should not exceed thirty millimeters. It is recommended to use reinforcing materials to strengthen the layer.

In case of facing bricks When performing finishing work, an additional number of nuances arise. Its surface is very smooth, so the solution, even when using a reinforcing mesh, can stick very poorly and subsequently fall away. To compensate for this disadvantage, the surface is pre-treated with a special primer. Only after this can you begin the main work.

Concrete wall

Smooth surfaces are initially treated with primer, which contains quartz sand or similar additives. This composition will increase adhesion and ensure better contact of the solution with the wall. For finishing such walls they are also used cement-based mixtures to which gypsum can be added. For walls that are rougher, it is enough ordinary cement plaster without adding any special components.

Aerated concrete blocks

When plastering walls based on gas or foam concrete blocks will not pose any difficulties. On preliminary stage the surface is only treated with a special impregnation. Regular gypsum plaster or a composition based on concrete and lime is used.

What is required for do-it-yourself plastering

Naturally, with bare hands No one will take on such work. A good tool is needed. To plaster the walls, we will need to stock up on the following: consumables and the tool:

Finishing work

Plastering walls with your own hands can be done using two methods. In the first of them, at the beginning of work, beacons or threads are installed to mark the required level, and in the second, the solution is simply applied and leveled with a rule. There are many different additions and subtleties when working with both methods.

There are many stages in surface finishing. But only if all of them are followed, you can get a high-quality and even coating that will last the required period.

Preparatory stage

One of the activities during finishing work is surface preparation. It is carried out in several stages. The algorithm is as follows:

Marking

Initially, you need to check the walls with a level for deviations. Measurements must be taken over the entire surface of the wall: both horizontally and vertically. Using the rule, you should find depressions and bumps. All found defects are marked with a marker.

Work begins from the corner of the room, retreating 300 millimeters and drawing straight vertical lines from the ceiling to the floor, in increments of 160 centimeters over the entire length of the prepared surface. Next, at a distance of 150 millimeters from the edge of the wall, you need to mark the places along the line and install dowels with self-tapping screws for the beacons on them.

Then the cord is stretched from corner to corner horizontally. The result is two parallel lines. The cord must intersect all vertical lines, and at the intersection points marks are made and dowels are installed without self-tapping screws. The result is two rows of holes that run strictly along the same line.

Primer coating

This step is mandatory, since the service life of the surface to be finished depends on its implementation. The primer will increase adhesion and ventilation of the surface, and add antiseptic properties.

When covering bricks or foam blocks, soil is used deep penetration, for the rest any soil for construction work.

To cover with primer, you will need a special painting container, which has a cavity into which the primer is poured, and a platform for squeezing the excess from the roller. Work is carried out in layers with an interval of 2-3 hours and with final drying for a day.

Installation of beacons

Without beacons, plastering is difficult, and in some cases impossible. This is the key to quality work. The technology for installing beacons is carried out in the following order:

  • First, self-tapping screws are screwed into the prepared upper holes, after which the rule is to check how deeply the lower self-tapping screw needs to be screwed in in order to form a vertical line between them. According to this scheme, all fasteners are checked.
  • After this, two diagonal lines are pulled between the caps using a thread, beacons are installed and checked to see if any of them will protrude.
  • Now you need to calculate the distance between the upper and lower dowels and cut the beacon profile so that when installed it protrudes 5 centimeters in each direction.
  • Then the solution is prepared and applied to the wall along a vertical line, after which the beacon prepared in the step above is pressed into the solution so that it does not protrude beyond the caps.
  • After installing all beacons, a control check is carried out at the building level. It ends with the removal of the screws.

How to properly plaster walls with your own hands

Applying plaster to the wall will be considered based on gypsum mortar. Work at this stage begins with preparing the solution and preparing the necessary tools. If the walls are made of brick or foam block, they are wetted before applying the mortar so that the wall material does not absorb the liquid from the applied mortar. This prevents its premature hardening and destruction. It can be applied using two methods: using the cape principle, throwing the solution onto the wall with a spatula and stretching it over the entire surface. There is also a simpler method: the solution is simply applied to the wall and stretched with a trowel.

After applying the main part of the solution, a rule is taken, placed perpendicular to the installed beacons and carried out from bottom to top in a zigzag motion. The sharp edge of this tool will remove excess solution, which can be used to eliminate any noticed imperfections. Then once again you need to go through the treated part as a rule, but this time the movements can be performed simply from bottom to top, achieving a perfectly flat surface.

Sealing corners around the perimeter

Work in this area needs to start from the ceiling. A solution of the same consistency is prepared as for the walls, but narrower spatulas are used. The formation of a small overlap on the main part of the surface is not critical: they can be removed in the future with sandpaper. Using this principle, all corners throughout the entire volume of the room are sealed.

When finishing corners, an already finished surface will serve as an example of a plane, and you can ignore the beacons. In this case, you need to use a square to maintain the perpendicularity of the corners.

At the end of the work, it is necessary to check the surface for cracks. If they occur, you need to seal them with a more liquid solution. If differences of more than one millimeter are formed, they are removed with the sharp edge of a trowel. Only then can the beacons be finally removed and the resulting gaps sealed with mortar. The final treatment involves sanding. When working with gypsum plaster, no finishing is required. On this Finishing work finished. It remains to wait until the applied solution dries and gains hardness.

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Sooner or later, the topic of renovation comes up in every home. The final appearance of the room will depend on the quality of the preparatory work carried out. By applying force once high-quality finishing, in the future it will only be possible to periodically re-paste the wallpaper or change the color of the walls. Initially, it may seem that the work cannot be completed by a non-professional craftsman. But you can try to make at least rough sketches. In addition to moral satisfaction, this will also significantly save your personal budget. This review describes in detail the entire technological process, how to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner. Videos and step-by-step instructions will help you understand the construction nuances.

Start of the process

The main purpose of plaster is to level the geometry of wall and ceiling bases in order to eliminate unevenness or defects. It is used for rough finishing. The application technology allows the mixture to be applied in a thick layer in case of large deviations. By plastering the walls in the apartment, you can get the most even foundations.

According to its composition, plaster is as follows:

  • plaster;
  • cement.
  • limestone;
  • lime-cement;
  • lime-gypsum;
  • gypsum cement.

The most important difference between them is the drying time of the solution. Gypsum mortar requires up to a week to dry completely, cement mortar will take about a month. Therefore, compositions with should be used in cases where it is necessary to achieve maximum durability.

This coating will last for several decades. Modern manufacturers introduce mortar mixture polymer additives that speed up drying up to two days. The cement mixture is used to level surfaces in basements or for laying tiles.

The process of leveling walls with plaster with your own hands is quite labor-intensive, so gypsum solutions are often used. With gypsum compositions, it is important to maintain humidity conditions. Gypsum plaster can be applied in one layer, which significantly saves the budget. Finishing is carried out both on a brick base and on wooden surfaces. To achieve perfect smoothness, the coating should be puttied after the plaster has dried.

For beginners would be better suited cement with polymer additives plaster walls. Video tutorials will help you understand and painstakingly complete the entire process in compliance with the technological sequence.

Plaster, putty - similarities and differences

A man far from construction terms, at first glance, will decide that these are synonyms for one type of construction work. In fact, these concepts have both similarities and significant differences. Both materials are intended for leveling surfaces, but this is where the similarity ends.

Related article:

Plaster and putty - what is the difference And common features, in what cases they should be used, recommendations from experts - read about this and much more in our review.

Putty

Manufacturers offer a dry composition or a ready-made plastic solution. Cement, gypsum and polymers are added as binders. Using putty, you can smooth out small surface defects and make the base smooth after plastering. For cracks up to 10 millimeters in size, a starting composition is used. used for final leveling of surfaces.

You cannot mix starting and finishing putty. Compositions of different homogeneity can form additional defects on the substrates.


Plaster

Using plaster, you can level surfaces with deviations of up to 15 centimeters. In addition, it acts as thermal insulation of surfaces, in some cases additional moisture protection.

Plaster can be ordinary or decorative. The composition contains large grains. It is used as a rough leveling or finishing structural coating.

When applying putty and plaster, different technologies are used. For plaster this happens as follows:

  • The first layer is applied using the spray method, which hides large surface defects. In addition, it serves as additional adhesion to subsequent layers;
  • the implementation of the middle layer ensures the leveling of surfaces;
  • finishing putty or coating – finally smoothes the base.

Apply using individual technology. The plaster composition needs several days to dry completely, the putty is ready the next day.


Advice from an experienced master: how to plaster walls correctly

Before execution repair work it is necessary to study the features of the base of wall surfaces. The method of performing the work will depend on this. For smooth walls, a spatula and a level are enough. Substrates with large defects and deviations can only be leveled using. You may need a large amount of mixture. In this case, additional reinforcement should be performed on the wall.

There are several rules for plastering walls:

  • first of all, the wall surfaces are cleaned and primed;
  • in the second stage, the bulk of the plaster is applied and distributed;
  • on final stage The base is covered and cleaned.

A video on how to properly plaster walls will help you complete all the work correctly:

Consumables and tools for plastering walls

  • plaster;
  • primer for pre-treatment of wall bases;
  • beacons in case of large surface deviations;
  • the rule for aluminum plaster is 2 m long for drawing out the composition and 2.5 m for installing beacons;
  • bubble level at least 2 meters long;
  • spatula 15 cm wide;
  • construction float;
  • trowel;
  • bucket;
  • roller with tray or brush for priming;
  • gloves;
  • perforator with a nozzle for stirring the mixture;
  • dowels, screws, Phillips screwdriver, metal scissors for cutting beacons;
  • hammer;
  • metal ironing;
  • roulette;
  • plumb line

Some tools are already available in every home. Something will have to be purchased or rented. But this is not a tool for one repair; everything will be useful in subsequent repairs. You could say it’s an investment in the future. Now we know what tools are needed for plastering walls, we can start making repairs.


What you need to know to prepare high-quality plaster

To prepare cement plaster, mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. Water is gradually poured into the composition with constant stirring. The result should be a solution with the consistency of sour cream with high fat content. Before mixing, you should read the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. If repair work is carried out in a room with high humidity, experts advise adding lime. It will remove excess moisture and make the microclimate more comfortable.

For surfaces made of concrete and foam concrete blocks, it is recommended to use gypsum-lime plaster. Its plasticity is well maintained on the base. To prepare such a solution, pour gypsum into a bucket of water in a thin stream, then quickly mix everything, adding milk of lime. This mixture is applied quite easily, and will help beginners get their hands on finishing work.

To plaster walls with your own hands, you can buy a ready-made mixture, which is offered in a wide variety in construction hypermarkets and stores. This is the most easy way preparatory work.

Preparing walls for plastering

The work process of preparing the surface for plastering begins with cleaning the base from previous coatings. After that, the level of deviations should be determined in order to determine whether additional work is needed or can be done without.

Then you should carefully prime all bases with a brush or roller. It is necessary to choose a deep penetration primer; there is no need to skimp on the composition at this stage, this will help the putty to adhere well to the surfaces. In addition, it will protect the walls from excess moisture and will prevent the occurrence of mold and fungus, which can cause corrosion of the material.

Do-it-yourself plastering of walls without beacons, video of step-by-step application

Before applying plaster to the walls with your own hands without beacons, after the primer has dried, you should thoroughly moisten all bases with water.

PhotoDescription of work
Before starting work, we clear the floor of debris so that it is convenient to collect the fallen solution, and all sockets are closed.
All the walls get wet
Spread the mixture with a spatula onto a 1 m² base in random order. We perform all actions with the hand. This is important so that the mixture hits the base accurately and does not scatter. It is necessary to just apply it, then the plaster will penetrate into the hollow places of the walls, in addition, this method will increase adhesion to the surface.
Use a grater to smooth out the wall using random movements. Layer thickness is about 5-7 mm. All surfaces are gradually plastered using similar movements. Work should start from the floor to the ceiling. There is no need to perfectly level the base; a rough surface will improve the adhesion of the second layer. The drying time of the first layer should be at least 2 hours.
After the first layer has dried, you need to go over all surfaces as usual. It will remove all large irregularities. Construction tool should be pressed tightly to the base and all walls should be leveled with arbitrary movements.
When performing the second layer, the solution is applied to the base with a trowel using a spatula. Leveling should be done with some effort and voluntary movements.
After setting, it is necessary to check the quality of application. Protruding bumps are removed in a circular motion with a construction float, which should be periodically moistened with water. This will help with quick soaking and better removal of the mixture. To remove depressions, you need to rub a small amount of plaster into these places. The second stage levels the walls as much as possible. Drying time is about 3 hours.
The third stage is the most painstaking. Necessary thin layer Level the wall surfaces as smooth as possible. The plaster should be diluted with a small amount of water to a more liquid state. Work is carried out from top to bottom. The solution is poured onto the walls with a ladle and smoothed in a circular motion until perfectly smooth. Drying time – up to 8 hours.
The grout will give the walls a velvety feel. The surfaces are spilled with water, then a construction trowel should be walked over them. This step can be omitted if tiling or stone cladding is planned in the future.
Excess mortar is removed from the ceiling surface.

Drying time: several days at medium temperature conditions and moderate humidity. At elevated temperature All surfaces should be periodically moistened with water to avoid the formation of cracks.

If in the instructions on how to level walls without beacons, some points are not clear, watch the video with an accessible description of the entire technological process:

Step-by-step application of plaster on walls with your own hands using beacons: video with detailed description

If the deviations on the base are large enough, plastering should be carried out at additional installation lighthouses. After preliminary preparation and treatment of surfaces with a primer, their installation begins. If work is carried out in rooms with high humidity or with large defects in the foundations, you should secure the mesh for additional reinforcement before leveling the walls along the beacons with your own hands. Video tutorials will help you do the work correctly. It is secured using a mixture or dowels.

The sequence of plastering work is similar to the process without installing beacons. The solution is applied in a dense layer between the beacons with a slight extension beyond them. As a rule, using zigzag movements from below towards the top, the plaster is leveled. The excess is removed with a spatula, the voids are filled with new solution. After passing the entire surface, leveling must be repeated from top to bottom.

At the end of the work, you should check the result using the rule. The protruding parts are rubbed down. After which it is necessary to perform leveling with a liquid mixture. Before work, you can look professional videos plastering on lighthouses for beginners. This will prevent mistakes in repair work.

Methods for installing beacons - advantages of fastening with screws

Placing beacons under plaster can be done in two ways: using plaster mixture or using self-tapping screws. For non-professional craftsmen, it is better to choose the second fastening method. A reliable and fast method proves the advantages of such fastening, including financial ones.

PhotoDescription of work
The level makes vertical markings at a distance less than the length of the rule by 20 centimeters.
Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled for beacons around the perimeter.
Dowels 8x40 mm are driven in with a hammer.
Screws 40-45 mm long for plaster layers up to 30 mm. In areas with a thicker layer, longer fasteners should be used.
The heads of the beacon screws should be aligned with a level along the perimeter.
The fastening elements for the beacons are fixed on the screws.
Attaching beacons around the perimeter.
Work is carried out similarly on the entire surface of the walls.
The wall is checked with a thread for the presence of protrusions. If the base protrudes too much, it can be adjusted by screwing in a screw.
The template checks and aligns all the caps.
All elements and beacons are fixed.

This method saves time exactly four times. The video below describes the entire installation process quite clearly:

At the end of the work, professionals recommend removing the beacons and sealing the resulting stripes with a solution so that rust does not appear during operation. This is a controversial opinion. If the beacons were purchased from a company trade and they good quality, there is no need to delete it.

Plaster mixtures - varieties, advantages, disadvantages

A wide variety of solutions puts an unprofessional craftsman in a difficult position. Before choosing the best way to plaster the walls in an apartment, you should study the manufacturer’s instructions for using the compounds. A properly selected mixture will last for decades.

Plastering walls with your own hands using cement mortar: video tutorials from masters

One of the most durable and labor-intensive solutions on the one hand, and the longest in service correct application- with another. The main disadvantage of coverage is the need to perform finishing putty. Plastering walls with cement mortar along the beacons allows you to hide large deviations and surface defects. For correct execution You can preview the entire process different videos professional craftsmen, which are posted on the Internet.

The cement mixture behaves well in rooms with high humidity, for example in the kitchen or bathroom. It does not lose its properties in garages, on plinths, in basements.

How to plaster walls with gypsum plaster: video and professional nuances

Gypsum compositions are only suitable for indoor work. The main advantage of this method is that no additional plastering of surfaces is required. Using a plastic compound, you can level the bases to an ideal state. The negative aspects of leveling walls with gypsum plaster include increased humidity in the premises, for the finishing of which other compositions should be used.

A significant difference from other solutions is the drying time. Literally after 10-15 minutes the solution becomes unusable, so you should calculate the speed of work and do not dilute the mixture in large quantities. Gypsum plaster is convenient for working on ceiling surfaces or corners. You can watch a video master class on leveling ceilings and other bases.

Do-it-yourself finishing plaster: video of interesting applications

For finishing dry mixtures or ready-made formulations are used. The choice should be made depending on the purpose of the room. For internal ones, you can use cement-based plaster. For internal grounds gypsum composition is suitable. Polymer is a universal mixture; various additives allow it to be used on almost any surface.

To plaster walls for painting, manufacturers offer special compositions with different structures.

PhotoType of solution
Structural solution - the composition contains large grains and wood fibers. Depends on particle size finalization surfaces.
Relief composition - inclusion marble elements and artificial fibers.
A textured mixture - various additives and a heterogeneous structure; you can apply an application that imitates a bark beetle.
Terrazite composition - glass particles, mica and marble chips are added to the mixture. Grains can be up to 6 mm in size.
Flock plaster is a composition with acrylic flakes. The final coating can be treated with a varnish composition.

When plastering walls under wallpaper, you don’t need to achieve perfect alignment. Texture wallpaper will partially hide minor irregularities. Absolute gloss is important for painting. The process of finishing putty is quite labor-intensive and can take a lot of time and attention. But the result will delight you with its impeccability.

How to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner: video and features of application to various surfaces

Modern production offers a wide variety of plaster mixtures. Before plastering walls with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics, composition and recommendations for use. Different surfaces require different approaches.

Brickwork works

Plastering walls can be done with either cement mortar or gypsum mixture. For exterior work, only a cement mixture is suitable. Since this type of work is carried out on the initial masonry, it must be completed flawlessly, avoiding swelling and defects. It is important to consider the execution time. If the construction work was carried out not very long ago, the walls should be allowed to shrink for some time to prevent cracking.

If you need to plaster brick walls with a previously applied finish, it should be completely removed. And only after complete cleansing of dust and dirt should you begin repair work. A brick base requires the installation of beacons, since the walls have quite large defects and deviations. All following works similar.

To help you learn how to plaster a brick wall with your own hands, you can read: step by step process in the review, watch this video tutorial:

Work on concrete surfaces

For concrete walls plastering work should be done more carefully. For better adhesion to the previous layer, the plaster should be rubbed in with some force for a more durable connection. Otherwise, the entire application process is no different from performing work on beacons.

Plastering wooden walls

The process of plastering wooden walls inside a house is somewhat different from the previous ones. The main difference is that plaster does not adhere to a clean wooden surface. First, you should make a frame from the lathing, which can be made of wooden slats or metal mesh.

When installing wooden sheathing or shingles, thin slats with dimensions from 3x15 to 5x20 mm are used. When purchasing, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the wood; it must have light color. When fastening, the nails are not driven in completely, but to the middle, so that the head can be bent and additionally press the rail.

Advice! To prevent deformation of the shingles, all ends of the planks should be well secured.

Under the sheathing, you can install additional thermal insulation from felt, having previously impregnated it with an antiseptic. The metal mesh is attached in a similar way.

Before plastering a wooden wall, carefully watch the instructional videos. The process is not complicated, but you should know many nuances of the technological sequence. The mixture is applied as usual. You need to be careful when pouring the mortar onto the sheathing; there may be voids behind it. Therefore, work should be performed at an angle of 45° alternately on one side and the other.

Foundation plaster

Before plastering the foundation of a house with your own hands, you must completely clean all surfaces of dirt, dust and greasy deposits. If concrete base for more than a year now, you can apply notches for better adhesion of the solution. On a brick foundation, use a spatula to clean all the seams from the old mortar.

In the second stage, all surfaces are generously primed, then deep defects are leveled with cement mortar. The same mixture should be used to fill previously cleaned joints in the brickwork.

For reliable adhesion of the mortar to the foundation, you can pre-tension and secure metal mesh. After which you can begin the technological sequence of applying cement mortar. All work must be carried out in warm, dry weather.

Good to know! To improve the quality of the cement mortar, you can add PVA glue, thanks to which the mortar will acquire some plasticity and will be easier to work with.

Conclusion

Now we know all the features and capabilities of plastering walls and can independently carry out the entire process, from rough wall finishing to decoration. The knowledge gained will help you approach the choice of material responsibly and technological process. And additional exercise stress It will only be useful.

How and with what to plaster walls?


When carrying out major repairs of residential or production premises inevitably there is a need to eliminate irregularities and ensure flatness. Knowing how to plaster walls, you can do the work yourself, saving financial resources. It is important to choose the right type of mixture, deal with technological subtleties, learn how to use the tool. The recommendations given in the article will help you perform the work correctly, ensure surface quality and avoid unexpected mistakes.

Which plaster is better for plastering walls?

Carrying out finishing activities requires professional training and requires a qualified selection of materials. It is advisable to entrust the selection plaster composition and finishing by specialists. When carrying out activities on your own, it is important to study, before mixing the components and plastering the walls, what is the best way to carry out finishing work.

Depending on the specifics of the work, various types of working mixtures are used for plastering. Let's consider the types of compositions used:

  • sand-cement. It is used when it is necessary to apply plaster in a thick layer on the external or inside buildings. The mixture is prepared from available ingredients, which when affordable price provide increased reliability of the finishing coating. The preparation process is quite simple. It involves mixing Portland cement with river sand, with the gradual introduction of water to the required consistency. Depending on the brand of cement, its ratio with sand ranges from 1:2 to 1:5. A special feature of the cement-sand composition is its long hardening period, due to which the mixture can be prepared in increased quantities. This makes finishing work on larger areas easier. The finished mixture can be purchased in specialized stores, then mixed independently according to the recipe indicated on the package;
  • gypsum-lime, as well as gypsum-clay with the addition of lime. They are used to ensure the flatness of wooden walls, as well as to carry out finishing activities on the interior of premises. The preparation technology involves mixing gypsum and lime in a 1:3 ratio with the addition of clay to improve bonding. The gypsum composition is prepared in a separate container with water, into which the gypsum is quickly poured and mixed thoroughly. All that remains is to add dissolved lime - the plaster composition is ready. A feature of the gypsum composition is rapid hardening, reduced thermal conductivity, and increased adhesion. Disadvantages include susceptibility to high moisture concentrations and the need to prepare small portions due to accelerated hardening. Gypsum plaster hardens within 7 days with a layer thickness of up to 5 cm;

The best way to plaster walls depends on the home owner’s wallet, as well as on the characteristics of the room in which repairs are required.

  • calcareous. Lime-cement is prepared from cement, lime paste and sand in a ratio of 1:2:7. Sand is mixed with dry cement with the introduction of lime “milk” and the addition of water. Clay-lime is prepared by combining lime paste with clay and gradually adding sand. Clay dough in a liquid consistency, lime mortar and sand are mixed in a ratio of 1:3:5. Sand and lime based plaster involves adding from 1 to 5 parts sand to one part lime. The consistency of the sand-lime mixture should be doughy. The mixture should slightly stick to the working tool. Using lime-based plastering compositions, you can significantly reduce the concentration of moisture in the room, which contributes to the formation of dampness, and also insulate the walls.

Developers make the final decision on the best way to plaster walls when performing finishing activities individually, depending on the following factors:

  • building material;
  • humidity levels;
  • availability of ingredients;
  • financial capabilities;
  • timing of activities;
  • assigned tasks.

Each of the presented finishing compositions has its own advantages and disadvantages, which you should pay attention to when solving the problem of choice.

Cement-sand mortar. Can be used to level internal and external surfaces

How to plaster walls - tools and application rules

Every homeowner wants the premises to have high-quality plastered walls after completing finishing work. This is achieved by using professional tool, compliance with technology.

Initially, you need to prepare a tool to perform the work:

  • a medium-hard steel wire brush used to ensure surface cleanliness;
  • teeth, reminiscent of a chisel with a toothed working part, facilitating the application of grooves to improve adhesion;
  • falcon, which is a square shield with a handle, which is used as a platform for the plaster composition;
  • a spatula designed for mixing the plaster composition and applying it to the surface, followed by rubbing;
  • a trowel, which is a platform up to 1 m long with a handle, facilitating the leveling of the plaster composition;
  • a grater used when performing finishing operations, facilitating grinding and final finishing;
  • usually in the form of a strip made of wood or metal up to 2 m long, designed to ensure the flatness of the applied layer;
  • plumb line or building level, facilitating control of work in the horizontal and vertical plane.

Anyone can learn how to plaster walls, although it will be more difficult for a beginner to do it than for a professional plasterer

After preparing the tools necessary to perform the job, you should study technological sequence operations. Standard finishing technology includes the following steps:

  1. Preparatory work to ensure the cleanliness of the treated surface and improve adhesion.
  2. Installation of guides (beacons), which are a guideline for ensuring flatness.
  3. Application of plaster composition and pre-finishing, forming a finishing surface.
  4. Removing the guide elements, filling the cavities with cement and preliminary grouting the surface.
  5. Finishing, which is carried out on a hardening mass and is carried out cyclically with radial movements.

Each construction project has its own characteristics, according to which the developer determines the feasibility of performing certain stages. Let's dwell on the main technological points.

Getting ready to plaster the walls: how to ensure adhesion

Carry out measures to prepare the surface for plastering according to the following algorithm:

  • Inspect and clean the walls with the obligatory removal of remnants of plaster, sagging, greasy stains, fasteners and dirt.

If you find significant cracks or any other mechanical damage on the wall, they need to be widened and then cleaned of the existing sand.

  • Seal cracks in the brick surface and crevices that impair sound insulation and increase heat loss.
  • Treat the work area with a deeply penetrating primer, which makes it difficult to absorb moisture, providing improved adhesion.
  • Execute shock method, using a toothed tooth, make three-millimeter notches on a smooth surface, followed by cleaning the wall and moistening it.
  • Place diagonal sheathing or chain-link mesh on a wooden base, and, if necessary, reinforce with plastic mesh.
  • Cook in required volume working composition for plastering work, choosing the appropriate recipe.

Having completed the surface preparation, you can begin applying the mixture.

Learning to plaster: how to apply the solution correctly

Carry out operations for applying the plaster composition, following the given sequence:

  1. Check the readiness of the instrument and the consistency of the solution.
  2. Lightly dampen the base until the moisture is absorbed.
  3. Take a portion of the mixture that is placed on the surface of the falcon.
  4. Take the mortar using a plaster spatula and apply it.

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    Plastering in a plane (using a rule) is a good option, if the walls are relatively smooth

  5. Form a layer 30–40 mm thick on the surface.
  6. Level the plastered surface with a trowel.
  7. Check the flatness using a rule, removing excess mixture.
  8. Fill any defects in the plaster with the mixture and smooth it out.
  9. Grout in a circular motion using a float using cyclic movements.
  10. When performing work, pay attention to the following points:

    • correct sketching using the hand;
    • preventing splashing of the mixture;
    • control of the thickness of the applied composition;
    • layer-by-layer planning with a grater;
    • reuse of the solution removed by the rule;
    • sealing small cracks with a spatula.

    How to plaster on beacons

    In case of significant defects in the treated surface or the presence of height differences, it is necessary to carry out plastering measures using beacons, which guarantee the ideal flatness of the plaster.

    This method allows you to get an almost flat surface at the output.

    Can be used as guides:

    • wooden planks that are nailed to wood walls;
    • standard beacons made of aluminum alloy or steel, fixed with cement.

    Perform beacon installation work according to the following algorithm:

    1. Cut the guides according to the dimensions of the room.
    2. Prepare the walls, clean them of dirt, and moisten them with water.
    3. Beat off the vertical 20 cm from the corner area of ​​the room.
    4. Mark the areas for installing the guides in increments of 50–100 cm.
    5. Prepare a binder solution based on cement or alabaster with a mixer.
    6. Sprinkle small portions of the mixture onto the marked areas.
    7. Take the guides, apply them to the piles and immerse them in the cement.
    8. Check the location and ensure a distance of 1.5–2 cm from the wall.
    9. Fix the final position of the beacons using concrete mortar.
    10. Fill the space between the guides with plaster mortar.
    11. Ensure the layer height is a couple of millimeters above the edges of the guides.
    12. Apply the rule, press lightly and move, removing excess mixture.
    13. Fill voids and level until flat.
    14. Allow final curing for 10–14 days.

    After the plaster has dried, finishing can be done or a finishing coat can be applied.

    How to plaster slopes?

    The most labor-intensive and critical stage when performing plastering activities is ensuring the plane of the slopes, forming corner zones, as well as treating the surfaces of window openings. The use of guides greatly facilitates the plastering process.

    When ensuring the presentation of slopes, perform operations in compliance with the following recommendations:

    1. Cut the beacons according to the size of the slopes.
    2. Secure the guides in the traditional manner.
    3. Fill the areas where the ceilings and walls meet with mortar.
    4. Grout the slopes with a trowel.
    5. Eliminate defects, check the thickness of the mortar layer as a rule.

    If you have the appropriate qualifications, you can plaster slopes without using guides - only using the rule. Using the above technology, all internal and external areas at horizontal as well as vertical joints are processed. Please note that measures for finishing slopes on the street side should be carried out only at positive temperatures. After the solution has hardened, final grouting is carried out and the correct application of the mixture is checked.

    Conclusion

    Plastering walls from various materials is a responsible operation that affects the presentation and durability of building structures. It is necessary to choose the right composition for finishing work, strictly follow the requirements of the technology, and also master the rules of working with special tools. The advice from professionals given in the article will help in selecting materials, as well as when performing work.

One of the main types of construction work, which is used to level the surface. Regardless of whether the walls are plastered from the inside or outside, the technology of work will be approximately the same.

It is quite possible to do plastering with your own hands even without experience in such work, but it takes time, methodicality and adherence to technology if you want to get a result at the level of professional craftsmen.

Plastered walls are the basis for finishing: whether you then paint the wall, wallpaper, tile or use decorative types of plaster - for any interior solution, the final finishing will require a flat surface, which is obtained by plastering.

Types of plasters

Let's consider the best way to plaster the walls. The type of plaster composition depends on the wall material and the purpose of the room, and is called by the main binder:

  • Cement-sand plaster (CSP), despite the abundance of other compositions, remains the most popular because it is universal. Indispensable for rough finishing in rooms with wet and humid operating conditions - baths, saunas, laundries, bathrooms, showers and toilets. The solution is mixed from 1 part cement and 2.5...4 parts sand, or diluted with ready-made dry construction mixtures (MCM). TsPSh is inexpensive and easy to use, since the long drying time allows you to correct flaws. Disadvantages include labor intensity, possible cracking, and long drying times.

  • Lime plaster sets faster than TsPSh and can be used on different surfaces. Prepared from 1 part lime dough and 3 parts sand. To strengthen the composition, PVA glue is added. Lime plaster is easy to apply and rub, it is more plastic than cement plaster, but can crumble as a result of mechanical damage. It is also not expensive.
  • The cement-lime composition sets faster and is more plastic than TsPSh, more resistant to mechanical damage than pure lime, and therefore is often used for interior decoration apartments
  • The lime-gypsum composition is used for plastering living rooms; the solution is prepared from 1 part of dry gypsum, which is mixed with water to the consistency of batter, and 3 parts of lime mortar. The advantage of the composition is its quick setting, but it is also its biggest drawback, since it requires speed when working.

Pure river or sea sand with different grain fractions is used as a filler, for decorative compositions- crushed shell rock or marble chips, quartz sand.

Based on surface quality, the following types of plasters are distinguished:

  • simple, consisting of two layers - a spray and a covering layer, with a total thickness of 10 mm, performed in non-residential premises and under tiling;
  • improved is carried out in 3–4 layers - spray, primer and coating layers, total thickness 15–20 mm, most often used in residential and office premises;
  • high-quality, made in beacons, in 5 layers, 20–30 mm thick, for especially critical interiors, decorative compounds are often applied as the last layer.

For simple cement-sand plaster, in order to save money, thin-layer plasters are also made from polymer compositions.

The process of applying plaster to walls

In order for the plaster to adhere well to the wall, it is necessary to carry out high-quality preparatory work. All finishing work is carried out at positive temperatures (at least 12°C), in winter with the heating on.

Preparatory work

On preparatory stage it is necessary to determine the area of ​​work, the type of plaster, and the required amount of materials. Next, materials, tools, necessary equipment, devices and special clothing are purchased.

Materials:

  • adhesive primer to improve adhesion of the plaster layer to the base;
  • ready-made SSS for solution or components for mixing;
  • putty - for painting and wallpaper;
  • beacons for high-quality plaster - metal, plastic or plasterboard for making yourself;
  • perforated corners for corners and slopes;
  • spider mesh;
  • sanding paper.

Tools:

  • bush hammer for driving uneven surfaces into concrete;
  • Master OK;
  • trowel;
  • falcon;
  • grater;
  • rule;
  • plumb line, cord;
  • maklovitsa;
  • building level.
Tool nameViewMaterialPurpose
RuleRail with a length of 0.5 to 2 m made of metal or woodMonitoring the correct application of the solution and leveling the surface
TrowelMetal or wood plate with handleThrowing mortar onto the wall
FalconAnalogue trowel of a different sizePortion solution set
PoluterokWooden or plastic plateSmoothing the mixture over the surface
GraterWooden or metal plate with handleGrouting a leveled surface, creating a relief
ScraperMetalSurface cleaning
BouchardMetal hammerRoughening
MaklovitsaBrushApplying primer
PlumbCord, weightDefinition of vertical
LevelMetalDefinition of vertical and horizontal
SquareMetalLeveling surfaces
Corner levelerMetal, grater typeAligning corners, varieties - for external and internal corners
Putty knifeMetal, plastic, rubberPuttying the surface, various sizes and varieties

Equipment and devices:

  • drill with attachments;
  • construction mixer;
  • scaffolding for working at height;
  • containers for solution and washing of instruments.

Working clothes - safety glasses, gloves, overalls, shoes.

Surface cleaning

Cleaning old walls involves cleaning the surface of all compounds - paint and plaster. Preparation of a new wall depends on the material (concrete, brick, gas silicate, wood). Cleaning is done mechanically or chemically.

Use a special chemical solution to wash off the paint on concrete surface large area, in individual construction individual areas are cleaned with scrapers, then the surface is cleaned with brushes with metal teeth and dust is removed by blowing with a vacuum cleaner or rinsing with water.

Preparing the walls

The washed and dried surface is primed with an adhesive solution using or manually using a paint brush. Before spraying, the wall is moistened.

Surfaces that poorly absorb moisture - plasterboard, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB - are dusted and primed before plastering to increase adhesion.

Installation of beacons

Performing high-quality plaster is possible without, but it requires a trained, confident hand. If you do not have experience, then plastering along beacons will give the best results.

Beacons are made of galvanized metal, plastic or self-made from moisture-resistant plasterboard. Metal ones are durable, but can rust, and rust can seep to the surface, leaving red spots.

Plastic ones do not have this drawback, but are made from expensive material, and therefore this is not a cheap pleasure. Economical option- use a jigsaw to cut strips of moisture-resistant plasterboard to the required thickness of the plaster layer, but installing them is more difficult.

The finished beacons are attached to self-tapping screws, checking the vertical and horizontal levels. carried out from the left corner of the room, the first fastening is at a distance of 320 cm from the ceiling and the corner of the wall. The second is to install the beacon on the opposite side of the wall, then pull the cords along the lower and upper edges of the beacon and install intermediate ones along them, in increments of 10–15 cm less than the length of the rule.


Preparation of the solution

Proper preparation of the solution is a troublesome task; to get the best result there are a few simple rules:

  • for better adhesion, you can add a little PVA glue to the cement-sand and lime mortar;
  • for lime mortar it is better to use lime paste, since extinguishing lime yourself is unsafe;
  • The binder is introduced into the solution in a thin stream with continuous stirring.

Stages of preparing the mixture for plaster

Various manufacturers produce dry mixes in bags different sizes, which eliminate the need for independent sifting of sand, measuring in the required proportion binder and filler, for example, rotband from Knauf.

Splash

Spray - the initial layer, obtained by throwing the solution onto the wall with a trowel. The solution should lie like a cake. The curled edges of a portion of the spray indicate a lack of water in the solution, while dripping down indicates an excess of moisture. Then the applied solution is spread over the surface with a grater.

Spraying is carried out with grips up to 1 m high and wide; after 20–30 minutes, excess solution is removed, usually using zigzag movements, supported by beacons.

For thin-layer plasters and smooth surfaces with good adhesion (gas silicate, foam concrete), spraying is not required.

Priming

Primer - the second layer, is applied in the same way, but in a layer of no more than 1.5 mm. After 2 hours, use a trowel to bring the surface to perfect evenness, then moisten the wall with water and smooth it again with a trowel.

Covering

Covering - finishing layer plaster is not needed for subsequent cladding or cladding. The coating is applied in a layer of 1–2 mm, after the solution has set, the surface is rubbed with a falcon in a circular motion, scattered, then vertically and horizontally.

Difficult to remove areas

The corners of the room and the ceiling require special attention. Sections of walls along the borders of adjacent surfaces are plastered last and leveled using a right-angle trowel or a special tool.

The wall behind the battery, if there is not enough space to work, can be puttied and leveled with a short rule in one pass.

After the plaster has matured for 3–4 weeks, depending on the composition used, the finishing coating is performed - wallpapering, painting, cladding or applying a decorative composition.

Plastering external walls

For guard external walls Plaster has long been used to protect against bad weather. For plastering external walls, solutions with different binders are used:

  • cement;
  • acrylic;
  • silicone;
  • silicate;
  • lime.

Previously popular compositions based on clay and lime, the advantage of which was accessibility and low price, have now practically ceased to be used due to fragility and instability to mechanical damage.

Work is carried out at positive temperatures, including in winter, manufacturers ready-made compositions require temperatures above 5°C, in the absence of sun, strong wind and precipitation.

Type of mixtureAdvantagesFlawsPurpose
CementStrength;Poor adhesion to smooth surfaces;External and internal work, ideal for damp and wet areas
Durability;Requires professionalism of the performer;
Slow maturation;Application requires physical effort;
Moisture resistance;Leaves a lot of dirt;
Low hygroscopicity;Long ripening
Low price
LimestonePlastic;Low strength (without reinforcing additives);
Environmental friendliness;Long ripening;
Vapor permeability;
Does not require physical effort during application
Lime-cementVersatility;Tendency to cracking;External and internal works, plastering of wet rooms
Elasticity of solution;Long ripening (up to 3 months);
Good adhesion;Personal protective equipment is required when working
Antibacterial properties
PlasterFast ripening;Low viability of the solution;For interior work in rooms with normal operating conditions
Does not require puttying;Low strength;
Elasticity;High hygroscopicity
Possibility of application in 2 layers;
No shrinkage;
Good adhesion;
Low price
AdhesiveFast ripening (2-3 days);The severity of the finishing layer, difficulty in workingFor external and internal work in insulation systems
Vapor permeability;
Low hygroscopicity;
Good adhesion;
Plastic
polymer cementSameHigh priceFor external and internal work
AcrylicSame,SameSame
It is possible to color in the mass and add texture; Does not require puttying
siliconeSameSameSame

Types of facade plaster

There are many types of facade plaster:

  • protective;
  • adhesive compositions for insulation systems;
  • decorative, which can be structural, textured, terrazite.

The compositions can be ready-to-use from dry mixtures and construction preparation; the latter are more difficult to prepare and require precise dosing of ingredients. Solutions can be tinted or untinted, for subsequent painting with façade paints.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work is similar to work for internal plastering:

  • calculation of material requirements;
  • purchase of materials, tools and equipment;
  • preparation of the wall surface.

We will not dwell on the first two points in detail; they are described above.

Preparing a brick wall

Prepare the brick wall: remove any remaining mortar, dust and dirt, open the masonry seams for better adhesion to the new plaster layer, wash and prime with adhesive primer.

Instead of jointing, for better adhesion, you can make notches along the wall or secure a plaster mesh, which is desirable in case of poor preservation of the masonry.

If plastering of a new wall is planned, then brick laying should be done in a waste area. Before starting work, clean the wall from dust and dirt, stains of mortar and oils, rinse and prime.

How to prepare a concrete wall

Preparation of equal concrete walls, especially factory panels, consists of notching recesses for better adhesion or installation plaster mesh. The metal one is mounted on the wall using plates and anchors in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 600x600 mm in width and height.

Preparation of lightweight concrete bases

The laying of walls made of cellular blocks - gas silicate, expanded clay, foam block or cinder block is leveled exactly, and therefore the surface of walls made of large-sized blocks is smooth and does not require thick-layer plaster for finishing.

Lightweight concrete is a porous material with excellent adhesion; before plastering, such walls are cleaned of dirt, mortar stains, oils and primed with an adhesive primer.

Preparing a wooden wall

Before plastering, it is necessary to protect the walls from fire and pests, and to water-repellently impregnate the wall with a special compound to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the solution.

Then the surface of the walls is protected with kraft paper or special membrane films, on top of which a plaster mesh is attached using a stapler or wooden shingles crosswise at an angle of 45°.

Methods of applying plaster

If fulfilled thin layer plaster without using a plaster mesh, the work is carried out in one pass: the prepared solution is applied to the wall with a trowel, leveled with a trowel and a rule, then using a plastic trowel we apply the required texture. The depth of the texture depends on the size of the sand grains and the force of pressure on the grater, the texture pattern depends on the direction of movement of the grater:

  • The bark beetle requires up and down movements;
  • rain is obtained by moving at an angle;
  • The lamb is given in a circular motion with a grater;
  • performed using a special roller.

Thick-layer plasters are applied to the wall in a similar way to interior work.

Insulation of walls using plaster systems

For fastening insulation boards made of polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene), extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) or mineral slabs use cement-based adhesives with plasticizing additives.

Work order:

  1. Insulation boards are attached to the prepared surface with a fixed starting profile using an adhesive composition.
  2. After the mixture has hardened, the slabs are additionally drilled with dowel screws.
  3. The same adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the slabs in a layer of 3–4 mm, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded using a spatula.
  4. The wall is plastered a second time.
  5. Perform finishing coating - decorative plaster or coloring.

How to plaster slopes

The slopes have some expansion, the obtuse angles of the slopes form wooden slats the required size or special beacons. To create an even obtuse angle between the wall and the slope, it is better to use a special metal tool- a type of falcon.

Painting

Both external and interior walls often painted as a finishing touch. For exterior work, frost-resistant paint is used, resistant to UV radiation and bad weather with a durability of at least 10 years. For exterior finishing It is undesirable to use bright colors and saturated shades of blue, since this pigment fades most quickly under sunlight.

Painting is done by hand or mechanized way- spray gun. Mechanized painting gives better results - it goes on smoother and costs less.

Interior painting is done in the same way.

Approximate prices for plastering work

Prices for plastering work depend on the type and quality of the wall material, the composition of the mortar, the type of plaster, the method of application and the class of the performer.

Average prices in Moscow for plaster (in rubles/m2):

  • layer up to 30 mm - 380;
  • layer over 30 mm - 420;
  • slopes in m/p - 440;
  • decorative plaster - from 620;
  • Venetian plaster (first layer) - from 1320, (second layer) - from 540.

Higher-class specialists ask for prices above this price; prices below this should raise caution.

Conclusion

Plastering yourself requires a steady hand, time and consistency. There is nothing supernatural in the work, but if you doubt your abilities, it is better to hire professionals.