All more people strive to make their secret dream come true - to get out of multi-storey urban buildings in own house. Acquired suburban area is quickly turning into a construction site. And, in accordance with the natural mentality of most Russian men, work on the construction of a new home is very often carried out on their own. Moreover, many of the amateur craftsmen do not have much experience in this area at all, they learn literally on the go, looking for useful and reliable information in available sources, including on the pages Internet resources dedicated to construction. We hope that our portal will provide them with serious assistance in this matter.
So, after reliable foundation The walls of the house are raised, it is necessary, without delaying this, to move on to creating a roof and laying the roof covering. There can be many options here. And one of the most commonly used is gable design roofs. It is not as complicated in calculations and installation as some others, that is, even a novice builder should be able to handle it. Therefore, the topic of this publication is building the roof of a private house with your own hands using the example of a gable rafter system with
It should be noted right away that the article does not provide a ready-made “recipe”. The goal is to demonstrate the principles of calculating a gable roof and the sequence of its construction. And a master with the appropriate skills should already adapt the recommendations received to his own specific construction conditions.
General information about the design of gable roofs
The basic design principle of a gable roof is probably clear from its name. The roof of such a roof forms two planes converging along the ridge line and resting on the long walls of the house (along the eaves lines). At the end sides, the roof is limited by vertical gable walls. As a rule, both along the eaves and along the gable, the roofing covering is slightly extended outside, outside the building in plan, so that overhangs are formed that protect the walls from direct exposure to precipitation.
Most often, slopes have a symmetrical shape. Sometimes they resort to asymmetry, when the slopes are located under different angles to the horizon and, accordingly, differ in their length. But these are isolated cases, and will not be considered within the scope of this publication.
The height of the roof at the ridge, that is, the steepness of the slopes, can be different - it all depends on the planned use of the attic space, the architectural ideas of the owners, and the type of roofing used.
Gable roofs have proven their high reliability. And the relative simplicity of the design is what makes them so popular among private developers.
The external similarity of gable roofs does not at all mean the uniformity of the design of their rafter systems. It is precisely in this matter that there can be significant differences, depending both on the size of the building and on its design features.
Based on the principle of their structure, gable roof truss systems can be divided into two groups:
- If the rafters rest on the external walls of the building and are connected to each other at the ridge node, then such a system is called hanging.
To give additional rigidity to this structure, the rafter legs of each pair are reinforced with horizontal ties (clasps). Vertical racks supported on floor beams, or diagonally installed struts can also be used.
- In the case where the design of the house requires the presence of a permanent wall inside the building, a layered wall is often used rafter system. The name speaks for itself - the legs “lean” on the racks, which, in turn, rest on a bench laid along the upper end of the capital internal walls. Moreover, this wall can be located either in the center or offset from it. and for large buildings, two internal walls can be used as supports. Several examples of layered systems are shown in the illustration below.
- However, a kind of “hybrid” of both systems is often used. The rafters in these cases, even without the presence of an internal partition, also receive support from the central post in the ridge unit, which, in turn, rests on powerful floor beams or on horizontal ties between the rafter legs.
In any of the systems, especially in cases where the rafter legs are of considerable length, additional reinforcement elements are used. This is necessary to eliminate the possibility of the beam sagging or even breaking under the influence of loads. And the loads here will be considerable. First of all, this is static, due to the weight of the rafter system itself, sheathing, roofing and its insulation, if provided for by the project. Plus, there are large variable loads, among which wind and snow come first. Therefore, they strive to provide for rafter legs required amount support points to prevent possible deformation.
Some of their reinforcement elements are shown in the design diagrams of the rafter system:
The illustration above shows an example of a layered rafter system:
1 - Mauerlat. Usually this is a beam rigidly fixed at the upper end external walls building. It serves as a support and basis for securing the lower part of the rafter legs.
2 - Lying down. Beam fixed to internal partition buildings.
3 - Stand (another name is headstock). Vertical support running from the bed to the ridge girder.
4 - Ridge run. A beam or board connecting the central posts and serving as the basis for securing the upper ends of the rafter legs.
5 - Rafter legs.
6 – Struts. These are additional reinforcement elements with which you can reduce the free span of the rafter leg, that is, create additional support points for it.
7 - Lathing, which must match the selected roofing.
Prices for fastenings for rafters
fastenings for rafters
In hanging-type systems, reinforcement is carried out by installing horizontal ties (pos. 7), which rigidly connect the opposite rafter legs, and thereby reduce the bursting load acting on the walls of the building. There may be several such delays. For example, one is installed at the bottom, closer to the level of the Mauerlat or even almost flush with it. And the second is closer to the ridge unit (it is often also called a crossbar).
If the rafters are long, it may be necessary to use vertical posts (item 3) or diagonal struts (item 6), and often both of these elements in combination. They can be supported by floor beams (item 9), as shown in the illustration.
It should be correctly understood that the diagrams shown are not dogma at all. There are other designs of rafter systems. For example, it is often used to fasten the lower part of the rafter legs not to the Mauerlat, but to the floor beams placed outside the walls of the house. Thus, the necessary
In the roofs of large houses, more can be used. complex circuits. For example, the rafters are connected by additional longitudinal girders, which, in turn, rest on vertical posts or struts. But to take on the creation of such complex systems, without having well-established experience in this area, is hardly reasonable. Therefore, we will limit ourselves to considering the construction of gable roofs that are quite simple in design.
Carrying out calculations of gable roof parameters
The construction of a rafter system and the arrangement of a roof based on it should always begin with necessary calculations. What tasks are set in this case?
- First of all, it is necessary to understand the relationship between the height of the ridge and the steepness of the roof slopes.
- After this, it will be possible to accurately calculate the length of the rafter legs, both “net” and full, that is, taking into account the planned eaves overhangs.
- The length of the rafters and the expected pitch from the installation will make it possible to determine the cross-section of the material suitable for their manufacture, taking into account the expected loads on the roof. Or, conversely, based on the available material, select the optimal step and place additional support points - by installing the reinforcement elements mentioned above.
The listed parameters will allow you to draw up a diagram and drawing of the rafter system as accurately as possible, and correctly position all its elements. Using the existing diagram it will be much easier to calculate how much and what material will be needed for installation.
- You will need to find out the total area of the roof slopes. This is necessary to purchase roofing material, hydro- and vapor barrier membranes, and insulation if thermal insulation of the roof is planned. In addition, the area parameter is also important for determining the amount of material for arranging the sheathing for the selected roofing covering.
To make it clearer when explaining the calculation procedure, the main quantities are shown schematically in the illustration below:
D- the width of the house (the size of its gable wall);
VC- the height of the roof at the ridge above the plane of the mauerlat or floor beams, depending on what the lower ends of the rafter legs will be attached to;
A- the angle of steepness of the roof slopes;
WITH- working length of the rafter leg, from the ridge to the mauerlat;
ΔС- lengthening the rafter leg to form the planned eaves overhang;
Sh- step of installation of rafter legs.
Let's begin by considering the issues listed above in order.
The ratio of the steepness of the slopes and the height of the roof ridge
These two quantities are closely interrelated. AND Totheir calculation can be approached with various sides, taking certain criteria as initial ones.
- For example, the owners see their house with a high roof, something vaguely reminiscent Gothic style architecture. It is clear that with this approach the height of the roof at the ridge increases sharply and, accordingly, the steepness of the slopes. However, one should not forget that such roofs experience maximum wind loads due to their pronounced “windage”. But the snow will practically not linger on such slopes. So it’s worth initially taking these two factors into account. Perhaps, for an area sheltered from the winds, but with a predominance of snowy winters, this option will generally be the most acceptable.
Steep slopes and a high ridge are pronounced - snow does not stay on such a roof at all, but the impact of the wind becomes maximum But let’s not forget that the longer the rafter legs, the more difficult the system itself will be to install, which will require a lot of reinforcing parts.
- Another consideration for making the roof higher is often the desire to have a functional attic space, right down to equipping it with a full-fledged living room.
For attic room, of course, a broken rafter system is preferable. But if a gable roof is still planned, then a lot of space is consumed by the corner zones along the line connecting the rafters with the mauerlat. We have to increase the steepness of the slopes (see above).
True, there may be an acceptable solution here too. For example, the Mauerlat is not located at the ceiling level, as in the “classic” version, but on the side walls, which are deliberately raised above the ceiling to a certain height. Then, with a great steepness of the slopes, and without particularly complicating the design of the system, Magnon can achieve very spacious attic spaces.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tiles
By the way, this is exactly the option that will be considered below, when the story turns to the installation of the rafter system.
- It happens that the owners of the future home, on the contrary, decide on the minimum roof slope angles. This may be caused by materials saving structures, lack of need usable area in the attic, due to local conditions - for example, very windy, but not particularly snowy areas.
True, with this approach we must not forget that any roofing has certain lower limits for the steepness of the slopes. For example, if you plan to lay piece tiles, then it is necessary to ensure a slope angle of at least 20, and for some models even 30 degrees. So if the plans already include this or that roofing covering, you should correlate its characteristics with the height and steepness of the roof.
So, how is the calculation carried out? Our constant value is the width of the house along the gable wall ( D). Using the well-known trigonometric formula, it is easy to find the height ( VC), starting from the planned steepness of the slopes (angle A).
Sun = 0.5 × L × tg a
It is clear that to calculate a symmetrical gable roof, half the width of the building is taken, that is 0.5 ×D.
One more nuance. When calculating using this ratio, the height difference is taken as the difference in the heights of the ridge point and the plane of the mauerlat. That is, it does not always mean an excess over the attic floor - this should be kept in mind.
The mentioned formula is included in the proposed calculator.
Calculator for the ratio of the steepness of the slopes of a gable roof and the height of its ridge
Its advantages include the possibility of saving on roofing material and scaffolding, ease and speed of construction, low weight.
Disadvantages: not very attractive appearance and lack of an attic or its small size.
- Gable- much more popular than a single-pitched one.
Its obvious advantages are its relatively light weight (compared, for example, with a four-hipped roof), a fairly large attic space, the possibility of arranging an attic in the under-roof space, as well as an attractive, harmonious appearance. This type of roof is heated by sunlight on both sides.
The roof does not have any particular disadvantages. We can only point out its relatively heavy weight and greater consumption of building materials than during the construction of a pitched roof.
A gable roof requires a ridge (a single-pitch roof does not) and gutters to drain rainwater.
- Hip roof
This type of roofing is not very popular, since its construction is quite complicated and to build hipped roof DIY requires certain skills.
The obvious advantages of this type of roofing include its aesthetic appearance, large attic space. The possibility of four-way heating makes the attic very warm.
Among the disadvantages of this type are its heavy weight and, as already mentioned, the complexity of construction work.
- Combined roofing
An ideal choice for a multi-level building or a structure that is not entirely rectangular in shape. It looks quite original, and also fits harmoniously into almost any area.
A combined type roof is much easier to construct, since it can be built in separate sections: at the first stage of work, cover the terrace located on the second floor under one slope; then build a gable roof over the bedrooms; at the next stage, cover the protruding area of the kitchen on the ground floor, etc.
On the picture different types roofs: 1 – single-pitched; 2 – gable; 3 – broken or attic; 4 – hip (hatched); 5 – tent; 6 – multi-pincer.
There are also hip roof, which consists of four identical slopes in the shape of isosceles triangles; roof Sudeikin and others.
With all the variety of types of roofs, their construction is based on several basic principles. Having caught them, you can build even the most complex roof yourself.
The entire construction process is divided into several main stages. So, let's find out how to build a roof with your own hands.
Mounting the Mauerlat
The foundation, which takes on the main part of the load, is the Mauerlat. The entire roof is built on it. Beams with a cross section of 15x15 cm are used. They are installed parallel to the roof ridge.
For the strength of the roof and resistance to adverse weather conditions, the Mauerlat beams should be securely fastened, and care must be taken about this already when laying the walls.
For this purpose, a strong thick rope is laid between the masonry blocks (bricks) at a distance of 1 meter, starting from the fourth floor. It's called wire rod.
The middle part of the wire must be secured in brickwork, and leave the ends hanging. Their length should be sufficient for subsequent tying of the timber. If you plan to plaster, then the outer end of the wire will need to be mounted in the solution.
Photo: fastening the Mauerlat with twisted wire
The Mauerlat must retreat from the edge of the wall by at least 10 cm. To protect the beams from rotting, layers of roofing felt must be laid under them.
Frame installation
To ensure sufficient strength of the roof, it is necessary to take care of the frame. The frame of the house is the rafters attached to the mauerlat.
It should be taken into account that if the length of the beams is more than 4.5 cm, it will be necessary to additionally install purlins. The optimal size of beams is considered to be a section of 7x15 cm.
The rafters are attached to the mauerlat using a special cutout, fixed with 20-centimeter nails. They are hammered like this:
- the first is driven diagonally through the rafter into the mauelat;
- the second is nailed in a similar way from the reverse side;
- the third nail is driven perpendicularly from above.
Thanks to this technology, the rafter is firmly attached and does not move.
The upper part of the overlapping beams is attracted to each other so that the edge of one beam overlaps the end of the other (parallel). They are fastened using nails or bolts.
Roof reinforcement
To reduce the impact of the expansion force on the Mauerlat and increase the strength of the roof, the rafter legs must be fastened together using beams whose cross-section is 5x15 cm.
This design detail is called a “crossbar”.
So, the size of the crossbar and the distance between the rafter beams that need to be connected correspond to each other. Fastening should be done using nails.
It is also necessary to take care of attaching a filly to each rafter leg, which is a board with a cross-section of 50x100 cm. It is secured with metal brackets and screws to one side of the rafter leg.
Its length is calculated in the following way: add 50 cm to the length of the overhang.
To avoid difficulties, you need to think about preparing the filly in advance. To do this, a cutout is made on the board, the width of which is 15 cm, with which it is attached to the Mauerlat.
Particular attention must be paid to ensuring that the boards and rafters fit together exactly. It is better to complete all this work before the construction of the rafter system begins, so that then you can simply assemble the entire structure.
At this stage, you also need to choose the angle of inclination of the roof. To make the right choice, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the area. For example, in the presence of heavy rainfall and a fairly cold climate, an inclination angle of 40 to 45 degrees is considered ideal.
Snow does not accumulate on such a roof, which avoids increasing pressure on the floors. The distance between the rafter legs should be 1 meter.
In hot and dry climates, the minimum tilt angle is 3 degrees.
In areas with frequent strong winds The optimal tilt angle is considered to be 20 degrees.
For an accurate calculation, you should use the rules used by professionals.
Builders measure this value using a special tool - an inclinometer. Before starting measurements, you need to calculate the required angle.
For this, a special formula is used: the angle of inclination is equal to the height of the ridge divided by the figure obtained by dividing the length of the roof by two.
Lathing
To cover the roof you will need to make a sheathing. When choosing tiles as a roofing material, the sheathing must be continuous.
The photo shows the structural elements of the roof: 1. roof roof; 2. border; 3. ventilation hatch; 4. skate; 5. rafters ( rafter leg); 6. auxiliary elements; 7. counter beam (counter beam); 8. roof sheathing; 9. safety protective element; 10. eaves gutter; 11. frieze (border) of the wall; 12. valley or valley; 13. drainage a drain pipe; 14. snow fence; 15. vents for steam removal; 16. support bridge; 17. anchor support plate; 18. strapping element; 19. lightning rod; 20. connections technical equipment from premises; 21. air duct; 22. exit to the roof; 23. recumbent dormer (attic) window; 24. standing dormer window; 25. pipe (stove chimney); 26. sloping roof; 27. attic floor; 28. dividing wall of the attic space; 29. thermal insulation.
The work requires solid wooden boards, the thickness of which is approximately 25 cm. Particular attention should be paid to the absence of cracks and chips on them. The length of the boards should be equal to two spans between the rafters, i.e., 2 meters.
In this case, the joints will be located only on the supports. The distance between them should be no more than 5 mm. The boards used to form the ridge should be placed at the closest possible distance from one another. Fastening is carried out using nails 20 cm long.
The choice of lathing option depends on the type of roofing material.
If you plan to create roll soft roofs, then the sheathing flooring must be intact (solid). If you have a slate or metal roof, a discharged sheathing is suitable.
If necessary, you can make the flooring double. In this case, the first layer must be laid in the standard order - parallel to the ridge, and the second - along the descent, perpendicular.
Ventilation
Sheathing is not enough to cover the roof. You need to think about its integrity during operation.
To ventilate the tiles, you need to leave gaps in the sheathing, two or three ventilation ducts on each side. The channels should start at the bottom of the overhang and end as high as possible. The width is approximately 5 cm. An outlet for the hood is installed at the top to remove air.
Installation of droppers and lining layer
To protect the roofing covering from the harmful effects of condensation, it is necessary to lay backing layer. Its installation is carried out only along the edges, where there is a high probability of water seepage: on internal valleys, near pipes, towards the ridge.
The width of the underlay layer should be approximately 40 cm. Nail the carpet using screws or nails at a distance of about 25-30 cm.
If necessary, you can lay another layer; it should be located on top of the one already nailed. You can glue the overlap using bitumen glue.
Another stage of work before covering the roof should be the installation of drip lines. They are metal plates to protect the cornice from moisture.
The planks are nailed with nails at a distance of 10 cm, and the overlap is 5 cm. In a similar way, drips are secured to the ridge.
A flexible tile is attached to the plates, which helps improve both the functions of the drip and its appearance. Since the plates are self-adhesive, the protective layer must first be removed from them and only then attached to the cornice. For greater reliability, it is recommended to additionally nail them with nails.
Installation of roofing material
The choice of roofing material depends on the type of roof. Each option implies its own rules and installation conditions.
Flexible bitumen shingles
To make it easier to overlap and distribute the tiles evenly, the process should start from the middle of the eaves. The shingles are removed protective film and glue it to the base.
Then they are nailed along the edges. The best option are galvanized nails with fairly wide heads. The joints of the shingles should be covered with tabs.
If the design assumes the presence of pipes, then special passage elements are attached along the perimeter of the shingle cutout. The tiles should be glued overlapping where the ridge is.
In the presence of brick pipe which heats up, it would be better to place a triangular-shaped block at the corner of the pipe and the roof. At a distance of approximately 20 cm from the pipe, lay underlay carpet, and a special connector is put on the pipe. The cracks should be sealed with sealant.
Metal tiles
A loose sheathing should be laid under the metal tiles. The amount of material can be calculated by adding the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, the vertical overlap of the sheets and the eaves overhang.
The first of the sheets is laid and aligned along the end and cornice, the second should be laid on top, and the third on the side. Above the second sheet is the fourth.
The entire resulting structure must be leveled and attached to the sheathing using self-tapping screws. In accordance with this diagram, the entire roof is assembled.
The outer corners and strips of the ridge must be overlapped and secured with self-tapping screws. Close the ridge with caps at the ends.
Start covering the metal tiles from the bottom, in the top direction, from left to right. The tiles are pre-laid out into small (5 pieces) stacks. They are placed on the slopes.
In this case, the load exerted on the rafters is distributed evenly. The tiles are attached to the rafters using galvanized screws. Each of the sheets has special holes, with the help of which you need to attach the sheets to each other.
Cornice filing
This work is carried out at the final stage. The walls should already be insulated, since the frame box should fit closely to them. Otherwise, it will be necessary to either break the sheathing or leave a section of the wall uninsulated.
It is preferable to make the lining from wood. This will eliminate the need for additional ventilation. The hem is a kind of box attached to the extension of the rafters and the fillet.
The photo shows the design of the eaves overhang
Its frame is made up of two boards, one of which goes from the end of the overhang towards the wall, while the second goes down from the rafters. The boards are connected at right angles. Self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are used to secure the connection points.
Metal plates are also used. It is imperative to leave small gaps between the boards. The corners of the box are cut at a certain angle, and they are secured using metal brackets and self-tapping screws.
Then the lower part of the frame is covered with boards along its entire length. Because they are exposed environment, they must be secured very carefully, especially at the edges. It is also necessary to pay attention to the fact that the joints of the rows of adjacent beams do not coincide. The corners need to be filed at 45 degrees.
Roof insulation
Insulation is no less important point than the construction of the roof itself.
There are several options for insulation: from above and from inside the sheathing.
If the attic space will not be used as a living area, then it is possible to carry out internal insulation. It will also allow you to hide the free space between the rafters.
The first step is to cover the entire perimeter of the roof with a waterproofing film. Since the rafters are located on top of the sheathing, it is impossible to stretch the film over the sheet.
It is necessary to ensure that the film covers all parts of the structure. Between the rafters and the sheathing, in the corners, nailed on top of the film wooden slats. Then mineral wool must be nailed to the sheathing between the rafters. The slabs of this insulation must be laid end to end.
The next layer is a vapor barrier film. Its lower edge needs to be attached to the rafters. The joints of two films (waterproofing and vapor barrier) must be placed on top of each other and tightly secured with construction tape.
If the attic space is planned to be used as a living space, then care should be taken to ensure that the roof is warmer.
In this case, the film and insulation must be laid on top of the rafters and sheathing. The use of polyurethane foam boards should be avoided as this material does not fit tightly together.
The optimal choice for one layer is mineral wool. It is also necessary to use a waterproofing film. The principle of insulation work is similar to that described.
It is more reliable to use mineral wool as one of the layers and be sure to use a waterproofing film. In fact, the principle of insulation work is not too different.
So, let's build a roof with our own hands
To build a house roof with your own hands, you need to follow the following steps:
- Fastening the Mauerlat;
- Installation of rafters;
- Lathing;
- Installation of droppers, lining layer;
- Installation of roofing material;
- Cornice filing;
- Roof insulation.
We invite you to watch a video about the roof:
Many owners of suburban plots prefer to build a house themselves. The final stage The construction of a building is the construction of the roof. Having certain skills, you can reduce labor costs hired workers and do the work with your own hands. Many people do not know how to make a roof - in such cases it is better to use the help of qualified workers.
Types of roofs being built
First of all, you need to determine the type of roof, prepare necessary tools and materials. Roofing construction is one of the important stages building a house.
To make a roof, you will need to choose its type wisely. The simplest designs that you can make yourself include gable roofs with straight frames.
Covering the roof with one slope will save material. If you make such a roof frame with your own hands, the labor intensity of the work will be less, and the installation speed, on the contrary, will be higher. But this method has several disadvantages. The first of them is not the most attractive: there is no possibility to equip an attic or attic. In this case, the roof space is too low.
Very often, a gable roof of a private house is installed with your own hands. It is easy to make and allows you to get more space. Compared to four slopes, it has less complexity and weight. Also in this case it is required less material. The roof of a house differs significantly from other types. In this case, you need to make triangular gables at the ends of the building.
Before you build your own four-beam roof, you'll have to do some serious preparation. This design has more elements compared to previous roofs. Besides, in the attic there is no way to make full windows, since the design is devoid of pediments. Installing the roof with your own hands in this case involves installing attic windows and dormer windows. They are designed for lighting and evacuation.
An excellent option would be combined design. It can combine characteristics of all these types. Another option for an attic is to build a roof with broken slopes. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make your home more comfortable.
Materials for work
Modern construction industry offers a huge number of traditional and innovative roofing materials. To understand all their diversity, you need to consider in detail the main types of parameters. However, first it is worth understanding what principles are used when choosing certain roofing materials. The choice of material depends on many factors:
The modern market is full of various roofing materials. They must not only be strong enough. Required condition is the ability to withstand various negative atmospheric factors.
Erection of the roof of a private house requires the preparation of tools and materials.
In particular, you will need:
Construction methodology
Let's look at how to make a roof correctly. To determine the configuration and size of the roof, it is necessary to take into account snow and wind loads in existing climatic conditions- the smaller the angle, the better design withstands loads. But small angle(40 degrees or less) does not allow full use of the attic space.
The shape and structure of the roof are designed according to the project plan: the key supports of the roof system must coincide with the lines and points load-bearing structures lower floor. Thus, it is necessary to take into account the width of the house and the presence of a longitudinal load-bearing wall in the center. If the attic is not planned to be used as living space, you can build reliable roof with multi-layer rafters. In this case, the rafters are attached to a track that supports posts resting on an internal support wall.
If you decide to install the gable roof yourself, you should carefully read the step-by-step instructions. The functional parameters of the roof also depend on the correct insulation, characteristics and quality of installation of the finishing coating.
Independent Mauerlat device
Before you can reliably build the roof of a house, you need to take care of fastening the mauerlat - the wooden frame of the house, which serves as the boundary of the transition from the stone to the wooden part.
Block it in these ways:
- The fill strengthens the belt around the perimeter and fixes the studs in it. The stud pitch should be from 1 to 1.5 meters.
- Then the studs are fixed in the last rows of the house's masonry.
Cutting and installation of rafters
The rafters are the most difficult part of the job. It is important not only to mount the rafter legs, but also to cut them correctly. If it is skewed, the entire roof will “walk,” which is bad for the house.
Now it is necessary to cut off the upper edge of the board so that the rafter system of two parallel legs can be connected by cutting edges without voids or gaps. To do this, you need to lift the board up, lean it against the mauerlat and raise it to desired angle. In the center, overlapping the floor towards the rafters, you need to draw a line. This will be the cutting line for the board. That is, in the upper part of the rafter we get an inclined cut. All rafters, cut with a pattern, are assembled securely at the top using brackets, ties and bolts.
Roof gable installation
The pediment is a continuation of the wall, limited by the slopes of the roof. If there is a gable roof, then the gables of the house are triangular. When installing a structure, the first parts are first installed, which subsequently serve as a frame for the gables. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality of the structure and ensure that they are of the same height. A mountain ridge is attached to the upper part of the gables, onto which the remaining rafter structures are later mounted.
Usually, gables are sewn up after roofing works , but this can be done at an earlier stage. Installation of boards 50 x 100 or 50 x 150 mm is carried out in a vertical or horizontal direction. The pediment, which can be built with your own hands, is often equipped with windows. It is necessary to provide insulation of gables.
Installation of frame and roofing pie
Continuing the topic, it is worth noting that next step will be the installation of the frame and construction roofing pie. Once the system is ready, it is necessary to lay the frame, which will become the basis for other materials of the pie - vapor and waterproofing, as well as for other insulating and roofing materials.
The roof covering can be installed from unedged boards 100x50 mm. In this case, the spacing of the boards depends on the final roofing material. The heavier, the smaller the rack pitch should be. Usually it is 30 cm.
Important: It is advisable to lay a layer of vapor barrier under the frame. It will protect the insulation from evaporation from the house. The boards are already installed on top of the barrier.
Now, perpendicular to the tree, you need to lay the beam in steps equal to the width of the slabs or rolls of insulating material. Insulation is placed between them, carefully in the existing grooves.
Everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing on top and fixed with another perpendicular frame (in this case, horizontal). And the last roofing material is already installed on it.
At the very end of the roof installation in the house, it is necessary to install drainage system. It is made from cut plastic pipes, they are bought in advance. Now all that remains is to sew up the roof with the selected material.
DIY roof covering
The plank is placed on the rafter system, the pitch of which is calculated based on the characteristics of the roofing material - its size and rigidity, and installation method. If use is required flexible materials(tiles, rolled bitumen), it is necessary to make an even frame.
Work on laying roof tiles is carried out in the following order:
Overlap must be reinforced in each wave. Covering the roof metal tiles, Special attention attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening of the sheets and the accuracy of their connection.
When installing the roof, everything must be done as carefully as possible differently. heat losses will be very significant. Typically, a gable roof is immediately made taking into account the use of various materials. This allows you to build a roof with minimal economic costs. In addition, this approach speeds up and simplifies the installation of thermal insulation and vapor barrier systems. It is recommended to carry out the construction of a gable roof in stages with assistants. Compliance with work technology allows us to build a reliable, durable structure.
When building their homes, humanity has made grass roofing since ancient times. In some cases, this type of roofing is called earthen. Any difficulty similar look there is no roof and the construction scheme is not difficult.
There is, however, one an indispensable condition: the weight of such a roof is quite large, so the roof rafters must be as reliable as possible. If structures are being built from logs, beams, carriages, then a grass, heavy roof is even preferable - with its additional weight, the building being erected will go through the shrinkage process much faster. Also, the crowns will close together much more tightly.
You can divide the types of grass roofing into the following types:
- Turf.
Reed.
Shingle (wooden).
Slate.
Tiled.
Copper.
How to make a grass roof
Let's highlight the main components of a grass roof.
First of all, absolutely any vegetation can be used for styling. But hard-leaved is still better.
Next, lay a dense layer of earth (peat, turf), waterproofing is possible if necessary. Also, there is no way to do without insulation. Do not forget about drainage - it is acceptable to use gravel or crushed stone.
Please note that geogrid is used for large roof slopes. It makes sense to cover the drainage layer of crushed stone with a layer of geotextile.
Let's consider an environmentally friendly type of laying a grass roof.
The construction of a grass roof is similar in most cases. This is the carrier truss structure and a sheathing made of unedged boards, on top of which turf was laid.
Instead of the waterproofing widely used today from rolled bitumen or other materials, a layer of birch bark was laid on the sheathing, on top of which turf was laid in two layers or a soil mixture was poured for sowing it with grass seeds.
However, before touching on the technology of laying bark and turf, it should be noted that the dead weight of a green roof is about 250 kg/m2. This means that the shear load (especially on roofs with steeper slopes) can move the entire grass covering down. To avoid this, it is imperative structural element green roofs had fences. Their function was traditionally performed by turf fencing beams or boards laid along the overhangs - the so-called turf holders.
At the same time, the construction of the roof when creating a grass carpet had to ensure unhindered drainage of rainwater from the roof slopes. To do this, it was necessary not only to choose the right shape of the sod holders, but also to attach them to the sheathing accordingly.
Strips of birch bark were laid overlapping each other. In the overhang area they were laid in 5...8 layers. At the same time, the strips released from under the fencing beam and placed on it were laid outer side up. This was done in order to ensure effective water drainage and protect the sod holder and the end parts of the sheathing boards from moisture. In addition, the bark, laid with the outer side up, is an important decorative element of a green roof.
To increase the service life of the roof, on the rest of the roof the bark was laid with the outer side down, since its inner side provides more effective protection of the sheathing from the mixture of sigumic acids contained in the soil.
To protect the turf laid on the sides of the gable from wind and water erosion, natural stones were laid on the edges of the gable. Later, pediment wind elements, which were used as logs, began to be used for this purpose. They were laid so that the ends protruded above the ridge. The logs were joined crosswise. And since the logs were the same thickness as the sod holders, together they formed a kind of wooden frame for the entire roof.
In another option, a wind board was used to protect the grass surface from erosion. It was fastened with wooden dowels and covered with birch bark from moisture. Sometimes, instead of bark, a horizontally laid covering board was used.
One of important elements traditional grass roofs - a wooden gutter, which was made from boards screwed together at right angles or hollowed out from a tree trunk.
The weak point of grass roofs is the openings (particularly for chimneys). To prevent water from flowing down the walls of the pipe into the house, stone slabs protruding beyond the pipe were walled into its masonry.
At the same time, sheets of birch bark were placed under these slabs, diverting the flow of water to the roof. The stone slabs on the side of the slopes were arranged in steps, which contributed to more efficient drainage of rain or melt water from the pipe walls.
A log is used as a fencing element, supported by a stop hook secured under the sheathing. In this case, the hook, cut into the log of the upper crown, is secured under the sheathing, and the round timber itself lies completely on the birch bark. To prevent water from accumulating on the roof, the sod holder has slots for drainage.
The round timber, in turn, is also lined with birch bark. Despite the presence of such moisture protection, the sod holder still needed to be periodically replaced with a new one.
For example, when attaching a stop hook on top of the sheathing, a space is created between the birch bark and the turf holder to ensure effective drainage of water. And when attaching the enclosing element using a dowel, special slots were provided in the sod holder for water drainage.
Another interesting solution is when the fencing beam is attached to the side, with a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the overhang, which also ensures rapid drainage of water.
In all these cases, the turf holders are protected by birch bark. The overhang zone itself is covered with several layers of bark.
You can also use the option of fastening the enclosing beam using a powerful dowel embedded in the end part of the rafter. This method of fastening was used for roofs with hanging rafters protruding beyond the overhang by approximately 12 cm.
Often, in order to save wood, instead of logs or beams, boards 3...4 cm thick and 12...16 cm wide were used to fence the grass covering, depending on the thickness of the green roof.
To ensure water drainage, holes or slits measuring 3x3 cm were made on the lower edge of the board every 20 cm. On the side in contact with the turf, they were expanded, giving the shape of a funnel. Sometimes boards were installed without drainage holes. In this case, they were fastened so that they protruded 2...3 cm beyond the overhangs. To do this, as a rule, they used persistent steel corners, which were screwed to the sheathing with screws.
In this article I will try to describe in detail how a gable roof is built. This form is practically the simplest, suitable for a private house and its construction, from the point of view of monetary costs, is more profitable compared to other more complex configurations roofs
- in the second case, the rafters rest on the floor beams of the floor below. A gable roof made according to this option will be described here.
Let's take a brick box house as an example. Its dimensions are 8x8 meters, height 3 meters. The construction of any roof with your own hands begins with the installation of maeurlat (Fig. 1). Methods for attaching it to the walls were described in the article, which you can read
We install the Mauerlat flush with inner surface walls It should be bricked up on the outside so that it is not visible. In this case, the upper surface of the Mauerlat should be 2-3 cm higher than the upper surface facing bricks so that the entire load from the roof is transferred only to the Mauerlat. No need to load.
Next we install the floor beams. We do this in the sequence shown in Fig. 2. First of all, we install the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4. Their extension determines the width of the cornice. We usually take it from 40 to 50 cm at the request of the customer. As beams we use a beam, the cross-section of which is determined by making a simple calculation described in detail. In our case, it will be a beam of 100x200 mm.
After securing the outer floor beams, we pull the string along the upper plane and set the remaining beams, if necessary, tightening the Mauerlat under them, or, on the contrary, placing thin plywood (you just often order timber with a height of 200 mm, and they deliver it from 190 to 210 mm, this is what we have on our sawmills equipment). We select their pitch taking into account the pitch of future rafters. When using 50x150 mm floorboards as rafters, take a step of 60-70 cm (it is better to take 60 cm, since roofing insulation has this width).
Having installed all the long beams, we install the short ones (Fig. 2). Their step is enough to take about 1 meter. This diagram is slightly different from what we are used to seeing in similar pictures. We came to it after the gable ebb on one of our first roofs sagged, although the ebb fillers were quite securely fastened. In this scheme, the possibility of sagging is completely eliminated.
We fasten all beams to the mauerlat with 150 nails; you can also use metal rafter angles and self-tapping screws. In general, the use of various fasteners for rafter connections makes the work easier. This is especially convenient for an inexperienced person; there is no need to make complex cuts and nicks. We have already talked about this in the article ““.
After installing all the beams, we lay (without fastening) boards on them, maybe floorboards, maybe inch boards. They are needed simply to walk on them calmly. In order not to clutter the drawing, I did not show them on it. The next step is to install the ridge beam.
First of all, we place racks made of 50x150 mm boards level or plumb and fasten them with temporary spacers. In Fig. The 3 spacers are shown on one post only, again to avoid cluttering the drawing. The pitch of the racks is no more than 3 meters. First we place the outer ones, then, pulling the laces between them, we place the intermediate posts. After the entire truss has been erected, the intermediate posts can be removed and you can easily create living rooms on the second floor.
The height of the racks is selected depending on the shape of the roof you want to achieve. I usually advise customers to take it equal to the height of the first floor along the facade (the distance from ground level to the mauerlat). This proportion is also shown in the figures.
Having installed the racks, we place them on them and fasten them with literally a couple of screws ridge beam. We use a 50x200 mm board (in principle, 50x150 mm is also possible).
Now we move on to the installation of rafters. First we need to make a template from a 25x150 board. To do this, apply it to the end of the ridge beam and to the beam (Fig. 4) and draw two lines. Having sawed off a board along them, we get a rafter template.
Of course, it is very good when the foot of the house is laid out with high geometric accuracy and the floor beams are also installed. Then we can cut all the rafters at once according to the template and calmly install them. But I’ll be honest, it’s quite difficult to achieve this, and even more difficult when it’s done new roof on an old house.
In this case, we first make only the top cut on the rafter according to the template. Then we take the resulting workpiece and apply it to the desired beam and mark the bottom cut, as they say locally. All rafters are installed in this way (Fig. 5). Please note that after installing one rafter, we immediately install the opposite one in order to quickly remove the lateral load on the ridge beam (otherwise it will bend).
When the length of the roof slope is large and a standard 6-meter board is not enough, you can go in two ways. The first (I think it is preferable) is to order longer boards at the sawmill. Of course it will cost more. For example, at the end of autumn 2012, 1 cube of 6-meter boards cost about 5,500 rubles, and 1 cube of 7.5-meter boards cost 7,000. But installing rafters is easier and faster than using the second method.
The second method requires splicing two boards. This can be done by sewing on them a piece of board of the same section 1.5 - 2 meters long. See the figure for how this is done. It is better to make the joint at the bottom, and an additional stand must be installed under it.
We attach the rafter to the ridge beam with two or three nails. For fastening to the floor beam, we Lately We use metal mounting plates and screws and add a couple of nails. Sometimes we use staples. By the way, I have seen many times how people use staples, but they do it incorrectly. The bracket must work in tension. Below in the left photo - how not to do it, on the right - how to do it.
Strengthening roof truss, let's start working on the gables. First, we install additional posts that will serve as the frame of the pediment (Fig. 7). The accuracy of installation is controlled by a string stretched along the bottoms of the rafters. Then we do window hole(Fig. 8). You can make it any size and configuration you want. Please note that in the picture, the post standing in the center of the window (supporting the ridge beam at the beginning) was simply cut. It no longer bears virtually any load. Having finished with the frame, we sheathe the pediment with an inch (for example, 25x150 mm) (Fig. 9).
The next step is to hem the eaves boards around the entire perimeter of the house. The front board (sewn to the ends of the floor beams) is made from a 25x200 mm board. From the bottom to the cornices we sew two belts from a 25x100 board (Fig. 10). They are more than enough to secure when exterior decoration soffit.
Now if we are going to mount drainage system and use metal holders for gutters; they need to be installed on the footrails right now (under the waterproofing film). Moreover, it is also advisable to cover the front boards with siding at this stage. Then it will not be very convenient to do this. I didn't show this in the picture. In addition, we now only use plastic holders gutters that are attached directly to the front board. They are more convenient and can be installed after the roof is assembled.
Next we proceed to the sheathing. First of all, using a construction stapler, we fix the first strip to the rafters waterproofing film(Fig. 11). It is more convenient to work if you already have scaffolding installed around the perimeter of the house. In any case, you will have to install them when you are doing the roofing, drainage, and sheathing the eaves with siding.
Having secured the film, we nail the counter-lattice slats (25x50 mm) to the rafters. The need to use a counter-lattice is described in detail here: . Do not forget to leave space for the overlap of the subsequent waterproofing strip.
Then we make the sheathing. Now I will not focus on the rules for its installation. This topic is for a separate article. In addition, any roofing is accompanied by instructions that describe in detail how to make the sheathing specifically for this material (the pictures schematically show the sheathing for metal tiles). I will try to prepare a new article on this topic in the near future.
In this way we cover the entire roof (Fig. 12). After this, all that remains is to make the gable overhang and gable ebb. The sequence here is:
Using self-tapping screws, we attach the wind board of the gable overhang (25x150 mm) from below to the protruding ends of the sheathing (Fig. 13);
We insert and secure with self-tapping screws the fillets of the gable overhang (board 25x150). The distance between them is approximately 1 meter (Fig. 14);
We sew two belts to the fillies from below (board 25x100). There are also enough of them to subsequently cover the gable overhangs with siding (Fig. 15);
From pieces of 50x150 boards of the required length we prepare triangular fillies for the gable ebb according to the figure (Fig. 16). Then, having secured them to the stems, we also nail two belts (25x100) to them.
This completes our roof. What happened in the end and what will happen after completing the roofing work and covering the gable and eaves with siding is approximately shown in Figures 17 and 18.
