After the installation of the load-bearing structures is completed, finishing begins. The simplest option rough coating– pouring the floor over the ceiling with concrete in a private house under construction. The second option is laying joists and rough boards over them, but it is less common and has its drawbacks, for example, the appearance of squeaking over time. Before you start pouring, it would be correct to familiarize yourself with the technology and determine the composition of the floor cake for various rooms.

Advantages and disadvantages of concrete floor

The advantages of creating a screed on the floor or ground include:

Concrete floors are strong, durable and easy to install

• reliability and durability;
• high strength (used as a finishing coating on industrial enterprises where floor loads are extremely high);
• levelness of the base for the finished floor;
• availability of material;
• ease of manufacture.

Disadvantages include high thermal conductivity and low noise insulation. This issue is resolved by laying a layer of insulation under the screed, the thickness of which depends on its purpose.

Tools and materials

Filling the floor with your own hands requires careful preparation. To avoid having to interrupt your workflow and go to construction stores to search for missing materials, it is recommended to make a list of necessary devices and materials in advance. When compiling it, it would be correct to be guided by the recommendations presented below.

Instrumentation that will be required during the work:

• building level;
• if necessary, guide rails that will allow you to control the thickness of the concrete layer (wooden planks or metal corners can be used as them).

Tools include:

• buckets for mixing and transporting concrete mortar;
• shovels for laying the mixture and leveling it;
• trowels for leveling individual sections of the floor.

Pouring a floor in a private house requires the following materials:

• concrete mortar;
• waterproofing;
• vapor barrier (when pouring floors on interfloor ceilings);
• reinforcing mesh (if necessary);
• thermal insulation material (if necessary);
• bulk materials, if the base for the floor pie is soil.

To properly fill the floor, you need to choose good concrete. There are two scenarios here: buying ready mixture at the factory or self-prepared.

To purchase from the manufacturer, it is enough to know the strength class of concrete.

Table of mortar proportions for screed

For screeding there is no need to use high-class concrete; a mixture of class B12.5 - B15 will suffice. This is true if you are pouring the floor yourself for a residential building where the loads are not very large. It is possible to make a rough layer from a more durable material, but this is not economically profitable; the use of lower classes is not recommended.

If you decide to prepare the concrete solution yourself, then you need to familiarize yourself with its proportions.

The main components of a cement-sand screed:

• cement M400 (CEM 32.5 – marking according to new regulatory documents);
• medium sand;
• water.

If the concrete floor is thick and high loads are expected on it, then crushed stone or gravel is added to this composition.

Device technology

You should start working only after everything has been installed bearing structures: walls, ceilings, roofing. It is important to correctly determine the design of the pie before starting work. It may differ for different cases. There are three options for the location of the concrete screed:

• the base for pouring becomes soil (floors on the ground);
• pouring on the interfloor ceiling;
• pouring over the attic floor when installing a cold attic.

In the first and last cases, installation is required thermal insulation materials, the layer thickness of which is calculated according to the requirements of heating engineering. In the second case, thermal insulators can be laid for noise insulation reasons, since concrete does not prevent the spread of noise well.

Selection of insulation

Expanded clay floor insulation technology

In order not to think about this when it is necessary to pour a rough concrete floor, the issue is resolved before starting work. If you plan to pour it on the ground, then inexpensive expanded clay is most often used as a heat insulator. The thickness of the backfill layer is on average from 30 to 50 cm, depending on the climatic region of construction. Can be used more efficient material– extruded polystyrene foam. Its thickness will be in the range of 100-150 mm. When pouring onto the ground, it is highly not recommended to use polystyrene foam or mineral wool due to their low strength and instability to moisture.

For the attic floor under the screed, it is possible to use the following thermal insulation materials:

• extruded polystyrene foam;
• Styrofoam;
• rigid mineral wool slabs.

The best option in terms of price-quality ratio would be the following: a layer of foam plastic with an average thickness of 100 mm is laid on top of the ceiling, and then a layer of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 50 mm. The use of inexpensive polystyrene foam allows you to reduce costs, and durable polystyrene foam increases the quality of the floor.

Scheme of floor insulation with mineral wool

It is important that if polystyrene foam or mineral wool are used as a heat insulator, reinforcement of the floor must be provided.

It can be done using wire meshes with a diameter of 3 mm with cells of 100 by 100 mm. The need for additional reinforcement is due to the low strength of these materials.

Floor Pie Composition

The composition depends on the purpose. For floors based on soil, the following pie can be given:

• high-quality compacted soil;
• backfill made of coarse sand or crushed stone approximately 30 cm thick (both options can be used);
• rough concrete screed;
• waterproofing layer (can be used roll materials, such as roofing felt, linochrome or waterproofing);
• thermal insulation layer;
• concrete floor.

Scheme of the floor pie on the ground

If expanded clay is used as a heat insulator, it is laid directly on the ground, instead of sand and crushed stone backfill.

If you need to fill the floor over the ceiling above a cold basement, then the cake looks like this:

• overlap;
• waterproofing;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier (can be omitted when insulating with penoplex);
• floor screed.

Floor plan by ceiling

For the interfloor ceiling and attic floor, the arrangement of layers is the same, but the vapor barrier and waterproofing are swapped. Polyethylene film is often used as both types of moisture protection.

Work order

If the floor is poured onto the ground, then the order of work is as follows:

• markings on the walls that limit the level of concrete;
• compaction of the base soil (performed by compaction);
• styling bulk materials(sand, crushed stone, expanded clay);
• laying the components of the cake under concrete in order;
• reinforcement if necessary;
• installation of guide rails or formwork when large thickness designs;
• preparation of solution;
• filling the floor.

If you plan to create a system heated floors, then the pipes should be laid before the floor is made, immediately after reinforcement.

Work order for interfloor, basement and attic floors, looks approximately the same as pouring onto the ground, but compacting the base and laying bedding is eliminated.

To ensure quality, the following recommendations should be followed:

• bulk materials are laid in layers, compacting each layer separately;
• It is best to pour concrete in one go, maximum amount stages – two;
• concrete needs compaction, for which a vibrator is used;
• To level the solution layer, a rule is used.
• The solution is laid in portions;
• The set of brand strength of the structure occurs in 28 days at a temperature of +20°C.

For strip foundations and low grillages, the construction budget can be saved by screeding the floor on the ground instead of flooring on beams or from PC slabs. It is manufactured in accordance with construction standards SP 31-105 of 2002 (energy-efficient frame houses, clause 5.6).

SP 31-105 specifies the minimum acceptable floor structure on the ground:

• underlying layer 10 cm (sand or crushed stone must be compacted layer by layer with a vibrating plate);
• polyethylene film 15 microns;
• concrete screed 5 cm.

Construction of the floor on the ground in accordance with SP 31-105.

In practice, the design of the pie is complemented by the following elements:

However, even this diagram of the floor pie on the ground is not final. For example, expensive polystyrene foam is often replaced with expanded clay concrete, combining two layers (We do not recommend doing this, why is explained below). Ideally, the subfloor screed on the ground should be cast between the foundation elements. However, it is often relied upon heavy partitions or internal load-bearing walls. Therefore, in the locations of these enclosing structures, the floor on the ground is reinforced with stiffeners:

• increasing the thickness of the structure - gaps are created in the insulation layer so that expanded clay concrete or concrete reaches the underlying layer;
• arrangement of two reinforcement belts - a reinforcement frame is placed inside the stiffener, rigidly connected with twisted wire to the lower mesh.

Important! In places where heavy ones are located separately standing structures(fireplace, internal staircase, stove, pumping equipment or boiler weighing over 400 kg) it is better not to risk it. Need to build separate foundation and attach the floor to it along the ground through the damper layer.

There are several more nuances when pouring a floor over expanded clay concrete soil or a regular mixture with crushed stone filler:

The cottage design must include wall or ring drainage. However, even with its presence, the sandy underlying layer is a technogenic zone within which capillary suction of soil water is possible. Therefore, instead of sand, it is recommended to use crushed stone, in which the upward rise of moisture by capillary is impossible.

DIY ground floor

Even with information about the design of the floor pie on the ground, the question of when to fill the screed remains open for the individual developer. The sequence of work may be different:

• installation of a floor on the ground immediately after the foundation (grillage) has gained strength;
• after completing the construction of the box and covering the last floor.

The first option is possible if the construction site is not mothballed during the winter. Since after getting wet and freezing, expanded clay concrete will inevitably crack and reduce its strength. The second method is preferable, since the work site is protected from precipitation, there are walls to which damper tape is attached or polystyrene foam is installed vertically.

backfilling

The rough floor screed on the ground must rest on a reinforced underlying layer, since any subsidence is fraught with destruction. Therefore, the following requirements must be met:

• removal of the arable layer - chernozem contains organic matter, which under the concrete is decomposed by anaerobic microorganisms and settles in the first 3 to 8 months of operation of the floor;
• layer-by-layer compaction - 10 - 15 cm of non-metallic material or natural soil with a minimum clay content (loam, sandy loam) is poured inside a low grillage or MZLF, compacted with a vibrating plate until no traces of shoes remain on it, after which the operation is repeated until the design mark is reached.

Compacting floor backfill material onto the ground

Advice! If on site fertile layer lies at a great depth (0.8 - 1.2 m), the volume will increase sharply earthworks and costs for purchasing materials backfill. In this case, it is recommended to consider the options of covering the PC or over beams.

The repairability of the floor on the ground is zero, so communications are installed at the same stage. Under a heated building, sewerage and water supply systems cannot freeze, so it makes no sense to insulate them. To ensure maintainability engineering systems communications are laid in pipes of larger diameter so that they can be pulled out and new ones installed when their service life is exhausted and they become clogged.

Footing and waterproofing

Even on dry soils, waterproofing is recommended, since the level groundwater may change over time, soil water is present inside the base. It is created from film or roll bituminous materials. The main problems are:

• on sand it is difficult to seal the waterproofing joints of the subfloor screed on the ground;
• The sharp edges of the crushed stone puncture the materials, breaking the continuity of the layer.

Problems are solved by pouring a concrete base 3–5 cm thick without reinforcement. This screed also needs to be cut off from the foundation elements with a damper tape. To save construction budgets, lean concrete B 7.5 is usually used.

If the underlying layer is made of expanded clay (for example, in the region the cost of this material is low or the owner has some reserves left), a different technique is used:

• the underlying layer is covered plaster mesh with a small cell that prevents the floating of expanded clay;
• the surface is poured with cement laitance so that the surface resembles expanded clay concrete and is leveled for fusing rolled waterproofing.

A similar technology can be used for crushed stone, but it is cheaper to level this inert material with a layer of sand, the thickness of which is twice the crushed stone fraction.

Scheme of floor insulation on the ground

In classical technologies, thermal insulation of the subfloor screed on the ground is made with extruded polystyrene foam high density, which does not wrinkle under load. If you use expanded clay concrete, which is considered “warm,” you will need a much thicker layer. It is inconvenient to work with this material, since the pellets tend to float, become saturated with moisture and take a long time to dry indoors.

Important! Thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded clay = 0.1 W/ (m*K), expanded polystyrene = 0.04 V W/ (m*K), i.e. Expanded clay conducts heat 2.5 times better. It would seem that you can fill the screed thicker and abandon the insulation. But expanded clay is used in a mixture with cement mortar (expanded clay concrete), and its thermal conductivity is already 0.5 W/(m*K), which is 12.5 times more than that of expanded polystyrene. It follows that in order to replace a layer of polystyrene foam 5 cm thick, it is necessary to fill in a screed made of expanded clay concrete 62.5 cm thick. Comments, as they say, are unnecessary. Plus, expanded clay is a very hygroscopic material, hence the high demands on the quality of waterproofing.

Two 5 cm layers of EPS are laid under the concrete with the seams offset like brickwork. Under heavy partitions, a gap is created in the insulation to the width of the wall, and a reinforcement frame is mounted inside the resulting stiffener.

Reinforcement

A rough floor screed on the ground is not a foundation and does not experience loads from heaving forces. Therefore, single-layer reinforcement is sufficient welded mesh from rods 3 - 5 mm, however, nuances should be taken into account:

• it is necessary to lay the mesh in the tensile zone of concrete, that is, closer to the base of the structure;
• recommended protective layer is 1.5 - 2 cm, so the mesh is placed on polymer or concrete pads mounted on polystyrene foam.

Rice. 15 Reinforcement scheme

A similar protective layer should be provided around the perimeter of the structure. Usually cards with a cell of 10 x 10 - 15 x 15 cm are used, the overlap is at least one cell. The contours of the heated floor are laid on the mesh and secured to it with nylon clamps.

Damper layer and fill

The subfloor screed along the ground is cut off from the walls, plinth, grillage or foundation by a damper layer. To do this, strips of expanded polystyrene are installed on the edge along the perimeter of the enclosing structures or the surface of the walls is covered with a special tape along the perimeter. The height of the damper should be greater than the thickness of the concrete screed; the excess is cut off later when installing the plinth.

It is advisable to screed the subfloor on the ground in one step to ensure maximum durability of the structure. However, in large premises larger than 50 m2 it is necessary to create expansion joints by laying a special profile.

Temperature seam.

For ease of alignment, they are often used plaster beacons, installed on quick-hardening solutions (for example, gypsum or starting putty).

The mixture is placed between the beacons and leveled using the rule. The beacons either remain embedded in the floor along the ground, or are removed after some hardening, and the resulting voids are filled with concrete and leveled again. The surface is periodically moistened in the first three days to prevent cracks from opening.

Filling on beacons.

Thus, rough screed Floor structures on the ground can be made on your own, taking into account the recommendations given.

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At self-construction country house or bathhouses on a strip foundation; in areas with a low groundwater level, it makes sense to make a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands . This technology is the fastest, most economical and allows you to do without the use of special equipment.

In addition, this floor design is more reliable and durable than ground floors without concrete, and does not require additional maintenance during operation.

Features of laying floors on the ground

In order to study this issue in detail, this article will consider the construction of a concrete floor on the ground in residential buildings With strip foundation.

In addition, the reader will be offered detailed instructions, which presents the technology of a concrete floor on the ground with step by step description fulfill all technological stages construction.

Stage 1: preparatory work

It is recommended to begin work on the flooring after the walls of the building have been erected, window and door openings have been closed and the roof has been installed, and the average daily ambient temperature does not fall below +5°C.

Before pouring a concrete floor onto the ground, it is necessary to make sand and gravel cushion:

1. Clear the area of ​​land within the boundaries of the foundation from construction waste and remove upper layer soil to a depth of 200-300 mm. Compact the soil surface using a hand tamper or vibrating plate.
2. Make markings along the internal perimeter of the walls of the building, outlining the zero mark of the subfloor. Using a hydraulic level, check that the zero mark is at the same height in all rooms.
3. Fill the compacted soil with sand and gravel, which consists of a layer of gravel, 50 mm thick and a layer of sand, 100-150 mm thick.
4. Moisten the surface of the pillow generously with water., tamp, then pour thin layer crushed stone with a particle fraction of 40-60 mm.
5. Sprinkle crushed stone lightly with sand, then moisten with water and compact again.

Note!

When pouring a sand and gravel cushion, it is necessary to control it using building level so that all backfill layers are strictly parallel to the horizon.

Stage 2: pouring a monolithic slab

The next stage of construction is the production of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which will perform load-bearing functions and take on the entire main load on the floor. For this reason, it must be reinforced steel mesh, and its thickness should be at least 80-100 mm.

1. Waterproofing. Place waterproofing made of thick polyethylene film on the sand and gravel cushion so that it extends onto the walls to a height of at least 500 mm.
2. Reinforcement harness. On low spacers, lay a metal reinforcing mesh on the floor so that at the joints it has an overlap of at least 100 mm.
3. Fill concrete. Prepare a concrete solution and distribute it evenly over the entire area of ​​the room in a layer at least 80 mm thick.
4. Alignment surfaces. Using a level, by measuring the distance to the finished floor marks, check that the poured surface is strictly horizontal.

After the mortar has set, the surface must be left for at least one week until the concrete has completely hardened. Diamond drilling holes in concrete using special power tools.

Note!

All engineering Communication It is recommended to lay it before pouring the slab, however, if this has not been done in advance, it can be used laterA cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels after the monolith hardens.

Stage 3: insulation and waterproofing

The concrete floor, in contact with the ground, is a source of penetration of moisture and cold, therefore, to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house, careful heating and waterproofing of the concrete floor along the ground is necessary.

Water-repellent materials and insulation are laid in several layers:

1. Thick polyethylene film can be used as waterproofing, but it's best to cover the surface monolithic slab layer of liquid hot bitumen.
2. Thermal insulation can be done in two ways: In the first case, a layer of blast furnace slag or expanded clay 100-200 mm thick is poured over the entire surface of the slab, but this material is hygroscopic and can absorb moisture.
3. The second option is considered more acceptable and consists of laying slabs of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) 50-100 mm thick on the floor.
4. Expanded clay filling must be distributed in an even layer, and lay the EPS boards tightly, without gaps, on the floor and secure them with dowels and wide plastic washers.
5. Another layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the insulation. made of thick polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns, on top of which a reinforcing mesh is laid.

Note!

Pouringconcrete floor in the garage on the ground,You can do without thermal insulation, but high-quality waterproofing must be done in any case.

Stage 4: installation of concrete screed

The finishing screed serves to evenly distribute the load and lay the finishing floor covering ( ceramic tile, linoleum, laminate), so it must have the same thickness and a smooth, uniform surface. The quality of this stage of work should be given special attention, because the cost of rework, in case of technology violations, may be too high.

How to pour a concrete screed:

1. Installation of beacons. Using cement or gypsum mortar, install beacon guide rails throughout the entire area of ​​the room at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other, defining the upper level of the subfloor level.
2. Pouring the solution. Starting from the far corner of the room, fill each section of the floor, evenly distributing the cement-sand mortar over the entire surface of the filled area.
3. Leveling the surface. To do this you need to use a metal or wooden rule, moving it with vibrating movements along the guide beacons.
4. Floor screed. Thus, moving from one area to another, it is necessary to fill the entire room, which is recommended to be completed in one working day.
5. Grouting cracks. After the mortar has set, it is necessary to remove the beacon guides and fill the resulting cracks with fresh cement-sand mortar.

Upon completion of this operation, the room must be left for several days until the cement mortar has completely hardened and dried. After 2-3 weeks, the floor surface must be primed. For this purpose it is best to use epoxy or polyurethane primer for concrete that must be applied using a roller.

• In paragraph 1 the manufacturing recipe is indicated cement-sand mortar for finishing screed.
• Clause 2 specifies the recipe for making concrete mortar for pouring a monolithic slab.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it becomes clear that self-production concrete floor in country house Almost any home craftsman can do it.

To obtain Additional information on this issue, you can watch the video in this article or read similar materials on our website. I am ready to answer all your questions in the comments.

Some may say that concrete screed is not particularly reliable and always remains cold. And its advantages include, perhaps, cost-effectiveness, environmental friendliness and fire resistance. This was the case before, but the application modern materials and advanced technologies makes the service life and reliability of the screed significantly higher, and heat insulators provide comfortable temperature surfaces.

Not always arrangement concrete screed on the ground is rational decision. There are certain restrictions that must be taken into account:

• lack of a basement or ground floor;
• the occurrence of groundwater at a depth of at least 4-5 meters;
• the presence of heating in the house, since freezing of the soil can lead to deformation of the screed due to the higher load on the foundation.

Having decided to create a concrete floor on a soil foundation, you need to make sure that the house is not in danger of flooding. You can start arranging the screed only after the walls and roof of the structure have been erected.

A concrete pavement on an earthen base consists of several layers, each of which performs important function. Layers are created from various materials As a rule, the “pie” includes the following components:

• sand layer;
• crushed stone or gravel layer;
• waterproofing material;
• rough concrete floor;
• steam and heat insulation layer;
• clean concrete floor.

The role of the finishing floor covering can be any commercially available material that matches the stylistic direction of the interior and fits most harmoniously into the design of the home.

Under no circumstances should you start pouring concrete directly onto the ground, because the first two layers of the “pie” prevent the penetration of moisture from the soil into flooring, which can occur by capillary route. Creating a concrete screed is not the easiest or fastest process. The main difficulty is that the work takes place in several stages. There is no need to mess around, because in the end it should form high quality coating, not prone to dust formation, sealed and resistant to loads.

Layered structure is the key long term screed service and its wear resistance. Modern technology for creating a concrete screed can be divided into two large stages: preparatory work and the actual installation concrete covering. Each of these stages consists of several parts.

Video - Floor screed on the ground

Preparation for laying a concrete screed on the ground

Preparatory work is a mandatory stage in creating a concrete floor; it is they that take up the lion's share of time in the process of arranging the screed. But it’s impossible to do without them, unless, of course, you want to get a low-quality result.

Filter layer

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the compaction of the earth in the base, which will help prevent its subsidence and, accordingly, possible cracking of the screed. Concrete floors on the ground are often installed in combination with a strip foundation at least 1-1.5 meters deep, filled with sand inside.

But this approach is not permissible if the house is located on clayey area. After all, clay retains moisture, therefore, if there is sand inside the foundation, stagnation of water will form and a real “pond” will appear under the building. That is why drainage is required in clayey areas.

The most optimal procedure in this case is the following:

• The clay extracted during the creation of the pit is filled with its lower part;
• performed internal thermal insulation home and external insulation foundation. These actions are aimed at leveling soil heaving even in the absence of heating in the building;
• gravel is poured onto the prepared soil and then thoroughly compacted. The quality of tamping in this case is very great importance, because the we're talking about on preventing the formation of voids. It is carried out using special tamping mechanisms;
• sand is poured onto the gravel, which is also carefully compacted and smoothed.

The thickness of the filter layer depends on the characteristics of the soil; as a rule, sand and gravel beds are no thicker than 15-20 cm each.

Waterproofing layer and rough screed

After filling the foundation, you can begin arranging the waterproofing of the future screed. The most popular materials for this purpose are polyvinyl chloride and bitumen-polymer membranes. If the moisture level for the house is within normal limits, then you can get by with a regular polyethylene film 250 microns thick, which is laid in two layers.

The edges waterproofing material should be slightly higher than the expected level of the finished concrete screed. Special attention It is worth paying attention to laying waterproofing in the corners, since it is through them that moisture most often penetrates. If the material does not completely cover the perimeter of the room, then its elements are overlapped and fixed with tape.

The optimal material for rough screed is “lean” concrete, to which crushed stone has been added. The resulting surface does not have to be perfectly flat, and no high demands are placed on it. It is quite enough if it does not have differences in height of more than 4 mm. In this case, its thickness should be about 4 cm.

Thermal insulation layer

Insulation of concrete screed - important stage Therefore, a lot of attention is paid to the choice of thermal insulation material. He must have the following qualities:

• high strength;
• low thermal conductivity;
• fire resistance;
• ease of use.

Most often, preference is given to foam, polystyrene foam or a layer of mineral wool. The required thickness of the material is determined by the location of the house. For example, in middle lane In Russia, slabs 10 cm thick can be used for insulation; in less warm regions - up to 20 cm.

The laid thermal insulation material must be covered on top with a polyethylene film, which serves two purposes at once: it prevents the penetration of concrete mortar into the space between the insulation elements and provides a vapor barrier.

Stages of arranging a concrete screed on the ground

Preparatory work ends after the creation of the thermal insulation layer. However, you cannot immediately proceed to pouring concrete - you need to take care of strength and reliability future design.

Screed reinforcement

The next step is laying reinforcement, which will give the concrete coating additional strength and durability. Traditionally, road mesh is used for this purpose; the diameter of the bark rods varies between 5-6 mm. The dimensions of the cells are 100*100 mm or 150*150 mm. Such reinforcement will prevent the appearance of cracks in the screed during shrinkage.

It is best to place the reinforcing layer a few centimeters above the thermal insulation material, since this way it will be inside the concrete covering. If the operational load of the floors is very high, then a reinforcement cage is used to strengthen them.

The photo clearly shows the mesh laid on the waterproofing

Creating formwork

Before the construction of the final concrete screed begins, guides and formwork are installed. This technology allows you to more accurately maintain a given level. The available area is divided into equal sections, the width of which does not exceed 2 m. After this, guides are installed, their height must correspond to the desired level of the screed. The guides are attached using a cement solution into which clay and sand are added.

Then formwork is laid in the space between the guides, thereby dividing the base into rectangular parts, which are then filled cement mortar. The guides and formwork are brought to the desired level and leveled horizontally, serving as a guarantee of the evenness of the future coating. After pouring, they will be removed from the concrete, which is quite difficult to do, so to simplify this process they are coated with special oil.

In order to obtain a monolithic surface, the screed is poured in several passes:

• work begins from the corner located on the opposite side of the door. After filling several rectangles, the solution is distributed over the entire area using a spatula;
• then comes the time for rough leveling, which is carried out with movements towards you, while excess concrete is removed;
• in the treated areas, the formwork and guides are removed, and the resulting voids are filled with a cement mixture.

This procedure is maintained until the entire floor area is filled. For sealing concrete surface You can use a special vibrator, which will speed up the process and remove all voids. When the screed is completely ready and leveled, it is kept under film for 3-4 weeks and periodically moistened. A leveling screed made of concrete M-100 and higher can be poured over the finished monolithic surface.

Creating a floor screed on the ground is a task that even home craftsmen can do. Modern technology The process is simplified as much as possible, the main thing is to follow the stages of work, do everything efficiently and listen to the advice of specialists:

• The screed level is set taking into account existing or planned doorways. Level markings must be carried out along the entire perimeter of the base. Stretched cords will help make orientation easier;
• if in preparatory work If a clay layer is involved, then it should be moistened and then compacted - such an obstacle will become almost insurmountable for groundwater;
• concrete screed earthen foundation– a multi-layer “pie”, each of the layers in which must be carefully aligned horizontally;
• the thermal insulation characteristics of a concrete floor can be improved using an expanded clay, cork or plywood layer;
• the thickness of the rough screed should be about 8 cm, and the thermal insulation layer should be at least 10 cm;
• while creating reinforcement cage for a concrete floor that will have to withstand severe operating loads, it is best to use rods with a diameter of 8 mm;
• The concrete surface is prone to cracks; to avoid this problem, expansion joints. After cutting, they must be sealed;
• To prevent the appearance of dust on the screed, special impregnations are used, which are applied no later than 7 hours after compaction of the concrete layer.

It is very important to use high-quality materials when arranging a concrete screed, especially for the “filling”, that is, insulation and waterproofing. If they fail, the entire structure will lose its strength and will not last long. You should not save on screed materials, otherwise you will subsequently have to spend significantly more money on repairs.

The result of carrying out competent work with quality materials will be the appearance of a reliable and durable concrete floor. It will not only withstand high operating loads, but will also serve as an ideal basis for applying any of the finishing coatings presented on the modern market.

Floors with a properly installed concrete screed will last for many years, or even decades. Observing technological sequence and paying due attention to all its stages, even an amateur who has very modest knowledge about the repair process and has minimal skills can cope with the creation of the screed.

Tables

Concrete grade	Mass composition, C:P:SH, kg	Volumetric composition per 10 liters of cement P/Shch, l
100	1: 4,6: 7,0	41/61	78
150	1: 3,5: 5,7	32/50	64
200	1: 2,8: 4,8	25/42	54
250	1: 2,1: 3,9	19/34	43
300	1: 1,9: 3,7	17/32	41
400	1: 1,2: 2,7	11/24	31
450	1: 1,1: 2,5	10/22	29

Concrete grade	Mass composition C:P:SH, kg	Volumetric composition per 10 liters of cement P/Shch, l	Amount of concrete from 10 liters of cement, l
100	1: 5,8: 8,1	53/71	90
150	1: 4,5: 6,6	40/58	73
200	1: 3,5: 5,6	32/49	62
250	1: 2,6: 4,5	24/39	50
300	1: 2,4: 4,3	22/37	47
400	1: 1,6: 3,2	14/28	36
450	1: 1,4: 2,9	12/25	32

Diagram of thicknesses of materials for floor insulation on the ground

Video - Floor on the ground with expanded clay backfill

Styrofoam	Polyurethane foam	Min. plate
Open cell structure	There is both open and closed cell structure	Fibers randomly located in vertical and horizontal directions
Poor moisture permeability	Almost impermeable to moisture	Almost does not absorb moisture
Lightweight material	Lightweight material	Medium-light material
Average strength	Low strength	Low/medium strength
Average compressive strength	Low compressive strength	Low to medium compressive strength
Non-toxic	Non-toxic, emits carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide at a temperature of 500 degrees	Non-toxic
	Not suitable for use under high load	Not all slabs are suitable for use under high loads

In private housing construction, the technology of installing a concrete floor on the ground is widely used. This type of floor is the most popular due to its ease of execution, strength, low cost and general availability of concrete. Concrete flooring on the ground is usually done in utility rooms, less often in residential ones. In order to cope with this task with your own hands, you need to understand what layers the pie of a given building structure consists of.

Layers of concrete floor construction on the ground:

• Underlying layer;
• Waterproofing;
• Thermal insulation;
• Concrete base slab;
• Screed;
• Floor covering.

In order for a concrete floor on the ground to serve in a house for many years, you need to use it correctly - make sure that the air in the building is warm. If there is no heating in the house for a long time, the floor structure may become deformed, with cracks and tears appearing due to the heavy load from frozen soils on the floor pie.

Technology for installing floors on the ground

First you need to set zero level in room. To do this, marks are placed along the perimeter of the walls in the lower part of the entire room, focusing on the bottom of the doorways. Thus, by lowering or raising this line, it will be possible to make required thickness pirogue. The thickness of the concrete pour is controlled by a rope stretched over nails, which serves as a level.

To prepare the soil bases, we remove vegetation layer soil, clean it with your own hands from debris and compact it. Level the surface as much as possible.

Typically the concrete floor pie is about 350mm thick. Therefore, from zero line it is necessary to excavate soil to this thickness. If the soil level is below 350mm, then it is necessary to remove the layer fertile soil, compact and fill with dry sand to the required level and then compact it. After this, tamping and leveling of the surface are performed. For this the best tool is a special vibrating plate. If it is not available, tamping is done with your own hands and for this you can get by with a simple log or a flat board, to which handles are attached for ease of work. Concrete flooring on the ground is a technology that requires a maximally leveled surface at the stage of laying each layer.

For additional waterproofing of the future structure, you can first make a layer of clay. If the clay is dry, you need to spill it with water, compact it with your own hands, cover it with sand and then compact it. In addition, clay makes the base warmer.

Advice! To indicate the required backfill height, you can drive several pegs into the ground. required length. The main thing is that they are clearly marked according to the level. Once all the dry layers have been placed, the pegs will need to be removed before pouring the concrete.

The first layer (thickness 50-100 mm) is filled with gravel, followed by pouring with water and compacting. The second layer (about 100mm) is filled with sand, also followed by compaction. As a result, we will have a warm pillow for concrete base cake floor in the house.

Hydro- and thermal insulation device

Used to create waterproofing various technologies, where filling with heated bitumen and polymer membranes are often used). We recommend making waterproofing using a special waterproofing polymer membrane, but if you want to save money, you can lay your own ordinary polyethylene pie film with a thickness of 200 microns or more. The film is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and the joints must be made airtight and taped.

Important! Waterproofing must be carried out over the entire area of ​​the house; the edges adjacent to the walls must be folded along the wall a few centimeters above the zero line.

On modern construction market presented a huge number various types thermal insulation materials, for example:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• isolon.

Each type of insulation has its own installation technology, compliance with which will make it possible to obtain a warm floor in the house.

Reinforcement of a concrete floor structure on the ground

In order to give the floor structure strength and protect it from destruction during operation, it is necessary to reinforce it. For this purpose, you can use plastic or metal reinforcing mesh or reinforcing bars. If we use rods, then they must first be fastened with flexible steel wire into a mesh with a mesh size of 100 to 200 mm (the higher the load on the floor, the smaller the mesh cell size should be). In order for the reinforcement to work effectively, it is necessary that the reinforcement on both sides be protected by a layer of concrete - for this, the reinforcing mesh must be laid on supports with a height of about 20-30 mm. It’s not difficult to do this with your own hands, just place bars under the mesh and raise it to the desired height.

Creating formwork and guides

Boards, timber, metal profiles, reinforcement rods, etc. can be used as guides. Using guides, we divide the surface into several areas about 2 m wide. It is important that the guides are laid at the same level. We fix the guides with lime-cement mortar or another method.

To make formwork, you can use boards or moisture-resistant plywood. We place the formwork for pouring concrete between the guides. As a result, cells are formed - the so-called “cards”, which must be filled with concrete. These same guides can serve as beacons for leveling cement when pouring. Throughout the entire process of installing a concrete floor, it is important to ensure that the surface is level; the guides and formwork also need to be checked using a building level before starting pouring. Irregularities in the formwork are eliminated either by chipping off the upper part of the boards or by placing remnants of bars, plywood, etc. under them.

Before pouring concrete, do not forget to treat the formwork with oil - this will allow you to easily remove wooden elements from hardened concrete.

Pouring concrete

Pouring concrete followed by installation of a rough concrete screed. To prepare the concrete solution, we use the following ratio of components:

• cement grades M400-500 - 1 part;
• sand – 2 parts;
• crushed stone - 4 parts;
• water – 0.5 parts.

We mix all the components using a concrete mixer, or manually, and pour a concrete solution of homogeneous consistency simultaneously into several “cards” in 1 step, in extreme cases 2, helping ourselves with a shovel in a more uniform distribution over the surface.

Advice! Fill concrete mixture should be carried out from the corner of the wall opposite front door so you don't have to walk on concrete.

After filling out several cards, you can start rough alignment. To do this, we use a rule about two meters long. By moving the rule towards you along the guides as if on rails, we distribute the concrete into “cards”, thus removing excess concrete mass and filling the voids.

When the entire area of ​​the room has been treated in this way, you need to give the concrete time to harden (about a month), closing it plastic film. To prevent concrete from cracking, be sure to spray it with water periodically.

The video clearly illustrates the technology of the rough screed device:

Finish concrete screed

The installation of a concrete floor on the ground ends with the stage of creating a finishing concrete screed. Most effective option is the use of self-leveling screeds based on gypsum or cement and special additives.

An important parameter of the screed is its weight. Therefore, if you need to reduce the load on the floor, use lightweight screeds - self-leveling floors. A special feature of this coating is the speed of installation - it can be done in 1 day, it is well suited for hidden communications and installation of heated floors.