Visit to the bathhouse – ancient tradition, which has retained its relevance today thanks to its healing properties. Most often, baths are built on suburban areas, installing the log house on the foundation.

When building a bathhouse, it is important to remember that the log house of the bathhouse needs additional protection, because inside it will be exposed to moisture, steam and high temperatures. Seasonal temperature changes and rains also harm wood, so it is recommended to process and outside log house In this article we will tell you in detail how to treat the log house of a bathhouse outside and inside.

Special means for processing logs

First of all, it’s worth talking about the types of special impregnations that you can easily find in construction stores.

Impregnations are of the following types:

• Antiseptic agents are created to protect wood from negative influences moisture, for example, fungus and mold (more details: " "). Such pests occur when moisture lingers for a long time on wood and in its pores, therefore antiseptic impregnations penetrate deep into the wood structure and harden, preventing moisture from entering;
• Next, it’s worth talking about how to treat the log house of a bathhouse in order to protect it from fire. In this case, fire retardants will help you, which can be used indoors and outdoors. Their non-flammable composition also penetrates the pores of the wood and protects it;
• Complex impregnations are universal: they prevent the formation of mold and mildew, protect against rotting and fire. Such compositions are used outside and inside the log house.

Classification of antiseptics

Antiseptics also have their own classification, which you must familiarize yourself with in order to choose the right way to treat the log house of the bathhouse inside or outside.

Antiseptics are divided into the following groups:

• Easily washable antiseptics are ideal for dressing rooms and rest rooms, but they are completely unsuitable for steam rooms. They contain metal salts, which will be washed out of the pores of the wood over time;
• For external treatment, it is better to use difficult-to-wash-out products made on the basis of natural and synthetic oils;
• Short-acting impregnations that easily withstand high temperatures are best suited for steam rooms. Such compositions perfectly protect not only from mold, mildew and rot, but also from bark beetles.

All these impregnations can also be divided into two groups:

1. Colored impregnations. Compositions that give the wood any shade do not have any disadvantages, but they are easier to apply, because the untreated area will be distinguished by its natural color;
2. Colorless impregnations . Treating a log bathhouse with this composition will be more difficult, but this way you will preserve the original color of the wood.

How to treat a log bathhouse

Before processing the logs inside the bathhouse, you need to stock up on tools. First, prepare several brushes, because they need to be changed every 2-3 hours of work. They can treat the entire log house, but it is better to cover large areas with a spray bottle. It will allow you to get the job done faster and better, but hard to reach places it is significantly inferior to a brush.

There are two more ways to cover a log house protective equipment, however they are used quite rarely:

• Immersion method. This method assumes full immersion structures in a container with an antiseptic composition. This method produces the best impregnation, but its implementation is problematic and expensive.
• Diffuse or dry treatment also used when processing logs. Compositions for this method can be presented as powder or thick paste.

1. To protective layer turned out to be reliable over the entire area of ​​the logs, it is recommended to process the log house before assembling it with crowns;
2. Before starting to process the log house, it is recommended to clean it of various contaminants vacuum cleaner;
3. The processed logs must be dry;
4. Moisture in the bathhouse forms on almost any surface, so it is necessary to treat all the wood in the bathhouse to avoid the spread of fungus;
5. Before impregnation, the bath should be cold.

If you use several impregnations, you can apply them in the following order:

1. Remedies for fungus and moisture;
2. Insect repellents;
3. Fire retardant.

When completing the work, you can additionally treat the surfaces with gel or any primer, but remember that they should not prevent air penetration.

High-quality processing, as in the photo, will last for 3-5 years.

How to choose the best tree for a log house

If you have not yet chosen wood for your bath, then pay attention to the list suitable wood:

• Spruce can be used to build a dressing room, but this is not the best for wet rooms the best option;
• Aspen It tolerates heat and moisture well, but when heated it can emit a bitter smell;
• Birch not at all suitable for wet rooms, but for a dressing room this is a good option;
• It's rare to see a bathhouse made of oak and ash due to their price, however they are also suitable for building a log house;
• Alder – perfect option for building a bathhouse, because its price is reasonable and its moisture resistance is quite high.

Many may also remember cedar, larch and aspen, however this wood completely unsuitable for building baths.

Among suitable wood it is worth giving preference coniferous species, because they contain resins that include phytoncides - natural antiseptics. By choosing such wood, you won’t have to think about how to cover the outside or inside of the bathhouse frame.

Despite beneficial features pine needles, only spruce is ideal for a bathhouse, because, for example, larch resin, when heated, takes a liquid form and flows out of the logs.

Copper sulfate treatment

This method is distinguished by its accessibility, because its price is quite low. The disadvantage of copper sulfate is its toxicity, which increases with heating, so it can only be used for external treatment of the bath.

To treat a bathhouse with copper sulfate you will need:

1. Brushes;
2. Protective equipment (rubber gloves, thick clothing and a respirator);
3. Brushes with stiff bristles.

Treating the outside of the bathhouse frame with copper sulfate:

1. Clean and dry the wooden surface;
2. Apply copper sulfate and rub it in thoroughly;
3. Wait for it to dry and apply another 3-4 layers.

Conclusion

Now you know what is used to treat a log house in a bathhouse, outside and inside. Treatment will significantly increase the service life of wood, so the time and effort spent on processing will not be wasted.

A wooden house is rightly considered the best type of housing in terms of its environmental friendliness, naturalness, low heat loss and affordable cost of the material. But the tree needs special preparation to grow life cycle home and conservation natural beauty wood texture. So what to process wooden house, and how to properly protect the building and improve its appearance?

Reasons and purposes of wood protection

The main problems that arise during the operation of wooden houses are directly related to the natural properties of the material. In the process of preparing and carrying out the construction cycle, preliminary drying, waterproofing and thermal insulation of floors and roofs at the point of contact with chimneys and hot pipes are provided. But this is not enough. Most common reasons The deterioration of the material quality is given below.

• Cause of defect: Different speed evaporation through the end and side faces
• Manifestation of the defect: Cracking, rotting of the ends of the frame.
• Result: Deterioration in the appearance of the log house, reduction in the quality of the walls.

• Cause of defect: Fungal infection
• Manifestation of defect: The appearance of mold, blue discoloration, change in wood color.
• Result: Deterioration in appearance. Gray mold causes many diseases and is especially dangerous for allergy and asthma sufferers. Once white mold appears, restoring the tree is extremely difficult.

• Cause of defect: Damage by wood-boring beetles
• Defect manifestation: Appearance of channels with eaten away wood
• Result: Reduced quality of structures.

• Cause of defect: Ultraviolet rays
• Manifestation of the defect: The wood fades and acquires a gray tint.
• Result: The house looks shabby.

• Cause of defect: High humidity
• Defect manifestation: Wood rotting.
• Result: Structural destruction, danger of ceiling and roof collapse.

• Cause of defect: Fire hazard
• Defect manifestation: From charring to fire.
• Result: Partial damage to structures and up to complete destruction of the house.

All of these problems can be easily avoided with the help of antipyrite and antiseptic impregnations for wooden house, protection of buildings during the construction and repair stages.

processing of a wooden house inside. Photo

Types of wood preservatives

Chemical means for processing wood materials are divided into two large classes:

• Antiseptics, providing protection from moisture, damage by fungi and algae, from the development of rot, damage by wood borers, crustaceans and shell fouling.
• Fire retardants to protect a wooden house from fire and the spread of flame during fire.

Both specialized products and complex-effect formulations are produced. Based on the type of base, a distinction is made between water-soluble (acrylate) and organic compositions. The latter can be produced on the basis of highly volatile, wax or oil compounds.

To treat the outside of a wooden house, compositions with an organic base are often used, as they are more effective and difficult to wash out. However, organic compositions may contain toxic substances, which limits their use. Acrylate-based antiseptics are safe and cheap, but often require either additional paint protection, or have restrictions on use, for example, only under awnings or under siding.

According to their intended purpose, the drugs are:

• primers(basic), providing comprehensive protection and conditions for deep penetration of decorative coatings;
• decorative(finishing), enhancing the basic protection, protecting against fading under the sun's rays, allowing you to give the wood the desired shade or degree of shine. Suitable for treating a wooden house inside or outside, as well as for enhanced protection of wet rooms in baths and saunas.

By consistency protective agents come in liquid (ready-to-use or requiring additional dilution), paste and solid concentrates, which are diluted before use.

processing of a wooden house from the outside. Photo

Different types of drugs may be intended for one or more of the following purposes:

• for primary preventive treatment of materials during transportation, before construction or start of operation;
• for periodic renewal of protective impregnation after the period of active exposure has expired;
• for treating damaged wood.

When choosing protective equipment for export products, we recommend paying attention to the compliance of the composition with the standards international standards security.

Means and methods of wood processing

Protection of critical structures

Types of processing:

• primary for structures operated in conditions of active contact with soil or atmospheric moisture ( lower crowns, logs and subfloor, basements, piles, pillars, wooden roofs, pediments, cladding of log houses);
• preventative for walls and partitions;
• medicinal for damaged surfaces.

Popular brands:

Nortex-Lux, KEDR-MV, Senezh, XM 11, Senezh Bio, KHMBB, XHS, Senezh Ecobio, "Biosept-Ultra", Drevotex.

how to treat a wooden house. Photo

Impact principle

Antiseptics for primary treatment, penetrating deeply into the wood, prevent the development of fungal diseases, mold, bacteria, woodworms, and also protect against the most dangerous enemy of wooden buildings (house fungus, although to a lesser extent than from fungal cultures of moderate rot.

Preparations of this type are difficult to wash off or indelible, and they actively act the entire time they are inside the treated structures. Life time wooden elements can grow for 25-50 years, depending on operating conditions. When applied, the color of the wood usually changes to better control the protection process.

For walls and partitions of dry rooms, colorless antiseptics are used, usually washable. For this reason, they are usually used inside the house, but they can also be used when treating a wooden house outside as a primer for subsequent paint or varnish treatment.

Some non-washable antiseptics contribute to the rusting of ferrous metals, so carefully read the instructions if you plan to treat adjacent areas with an antiseptic. metal structures elements.

Do not work on icy or frozen wood.

Protect treated structures from moisture until the product is completely fixed in the material. Usually the time is indicated on the packaging.

Protection of log house ends

Types of processing:

Popular brands:

Woodmaster Biotor, Neomid 440, Senezh TOR, PU- Holzverfestigung.

Impact principle

Through the ends, moisture is absorbed and evaporates 10 times more intensely, which causes deformation and shrinkage cracking, which is especially severe for round timber. Protective agents form breathable coatings on the end surfaces that repel moisture from the outside and normalize the rate of evaporation. Some preparations, for example, PU-Holzverfestigung, cause deep hydrophobization of wood cells, continuing to protect the ends even after cracks appear.

The use of such treatment on the outside of a wooden house is extremely important and can significantly reduce both the number and depth of end cracking. Especially critical structures should be treated inside the house. The products are applied to the surface with rollers, brushes or sprayers once or in several layers with intermediate drying (determined by the properties of the end surface). Products are available in oil (wax) or water based.

how to process the ends log house. Photo

To reduce overall consumption, choose oil-wax products.

If the ends are already cracked or rotting, then select a deep penetration product that can protect the damaged wood.

For critical areas, choose compounds that slightly change the shade of the wood so that you can carefully control the application process.

Pay attention to the compatibility of the product with subsequent decoration of the ends, for example, with tinting or texture compounds.

Fire retardant treatment of floors and rafters

Types of processing:

• primary before using lumber (immersing in a solution) or after building a building (applying the composition with a spray, roller, brush);
• periodic after the fire protection period of the previously applied product has expired.

Popular brands:

Senezh Ognebio, Senezh Ognebio Prof, Negorin-MS, Ultan, HMHA, Pirilax-Lux, Pirilax-Terma, KEDR Zashchita-PPP, KEDR-AN6, MIG-09, OZONE-007, KEDR-KD.

Impact principle

You can improve the protection of a wooden house from fire by two types of means: coating compositions (paints, pastes, varnishes, coatings) and impregnating fire retardants. In most cases, impregnating compositions not only protect wooden structures from fire and flame spread, but also have antiseptic properties. Contains fire retardants (flame retardants, substances that enhance the effect of retardants (synergists) and stabilizers that limit the consumption of synergists.

Fireproof treatment of a wooden house inside. Photo

Provided fire protection properties (1 or 2 groups. For particularly critical structures, which include rafters and ceilings, fire protection group 1 should be achieved. To do this, increase the number of applied layers, as recommended in the instructions for the drug, although there are also means to achieve high protection in 1 pass. Attention! Some surface impregnation preparations can provide only group 2 fire protection.

Use wood color-changing compounds to protect your most critical structures. This way you will be able to visually monitor the quality of the antipyrite treatment.

To control the application of preparations when treating the inside of a wooden house, use products with decorative tinting in shades natural to wood.

Do not allow contact with atmospheric moisture or drop-liquid moistening until the preparation is fixed in the wood.

Use specialized preparations for antipyrite treatment of baths, saunas, hammams, for example, Pirilax-Terma.

If protection of wooden structures with previously applied paint coating, it is convenient to use water-dispersed thermal intumescent paint KEDR-KD, which provides fire protection group 1 at temperatures up to 60°C in rooms with humidity up to 80%.

Protection against blue stains and mildew

Types of processing:

How to protect a wooden house from blue stains and mold. Photo

Popular brands:

Tikkurila Valtti Pohjuste, Tikkurila Valtti Akvabase, Tikkurila Valtti Expert Base, League Bioshield, Antimold Lakra, Nortex-Doctor, Senezh Eurotrans, Nortex-Lux, KEDR Doctor (winter and summer), Nortex-Transit, BS 13, Drevotex-Antimold.

Impact principle

Fungal pores, penetrating into damp wood, form local colonies that change their natural color to blue, green, black or pink. If left wet for a long time, the tree may rot. Antiseptic agents with a fungicidal effect penetrate into damp wood and sterilize it. This eliminates the increase in the hygroscopic characteristics of wood.

Treatment is possible in three ways: immersion in an antiseptic, applying the solution with a brush or spraying. The protection time for freshly sawn wood materials can be 4 (8 months for different brands subject to proper ventilated stacking. When applied in several layers and without subsequent leaching of the product after treatment inside a wooden house, the period of protection against fungal damage can be up to 45 years.

When choosing an antiseptic, evaluate the full range of its effects in order to reduce the effort and cost of complex treatment of a wooden house. Many fungicides additionally protect wood from woodworms. Some manufacturers also guarantee protection against algae, house fungus, cracking, or increased fire resistance.

Treatment of a wooden house from mold inside. Photo

Not all brands are suitable for processing wooden houses inside, and some of those that are suitable will then require washing out the antiseptic before painting or varnishing. Please read the instructions carefully before purchasing.

When using compounds externally, pay attention to weather resistance. Some manufacturers indicate the need to protect facades from prolonged exposure to water with awnings or siding.

Protection from woodworms

Types of processing:

• preventative before the start of construction and installation work;
• periodic when the effectiveness of the drug has expired;
• medicinal with a small area of ​​wood damage.

Popular brands:

Lignofix Stabil, Drevotex-Bio, Woodmaster Anti-bug, Belinka Belocid, Belinka Fentin, Antishashelin.

Impact principle

Many antiseptics have a barrier insecticidal property, penetrating several mm into the wood and making the subsequent development of woodworms (shashel) impossible. It is precisely because of the limited impregnation layer that it is advisable to treat healthy wood even before the construction of the log house, since the use of chemicals with a large degree of damage does not make sense.

How to protect a wooden house. Photo

When biological damage begins, the beams can be cured. To do this, a bioantiseptic solution is injected (syringed) inside the bugs' passages as deeply as possible, and then the passage is sealed so that the antiseptic can penetrate into the thickness of the beam. If the affected area is extensive, then other treatment methods are used: fogation, fumigation, microwave treatment, dry steam, and insecticides. All of them will ultimately cost more than treating a wooden house with antiseptics for prevention.

Most drugs kill only adult beetles, but Antishashelin is also effective against their larvae, provided that you manage to inject the drug deep enough into the affected wooden structures.

For deeper penetration of the drug, apply the product up to 3 times with an interval of 2 (3 days).

The period of effectiveness of bioantiseptics can reach 10 years, which is significantly longer than common insecticides. We recommend repeating preventive treatment after the expiration date specified in the instructions.

Wood bleaching

Type of processing:

Popular brands:

CEDAR Bleach, Nortex-Bleach, Senezh Neo, Bioshield-2, Neomid 500, Senezh Effo, Drevotex-Bleach.

Impact principle

When wood darkens as a result of fungal attack, only the surface layers are usually affected, especially if there is regular moisture supply. You can disguise the defect, but it is better to return the original shade with special bleaches that penetrate inside and kill fungal mycelium on the surface and in the body of wooden structures. Bleach can be grouped into two main types:

With active oxygen. Mild impact without destructive effect on the structure and without the release of harmful gases. Typically two-component formulations requiring sequential application or mixing immediately before treatment.

When choosing how to treat a wooden house, keep in mind that the treatment procedure with gentle brands containing active oxygen is a little more complicated than with chlorine-containing products. For treating a wooden house outside it is often easier to choose an aggressive bleach, but for interior use it makes sense to work with mild detergents.

Decorative external and internal processing of a wooden house

Types of processing:

Popular brands:

Tikkurila Valtti Akvacolor, Tikkurila Vinha, Tikkurila Valtti Color, Tikkurila Valtti Color Satin, Tikkurila Valtti Color extra, Luxens, Belinka Lazur, Belinka Top Lazur, Belinka Top Lazur+UV, Belinka Top Lazur Mix, Belinka Interior, Krasula, KRASULA for baths and saunas, KRASULA for tinting, Krasula For interiors, Senezh Aquadecor, SENEZH Sauna.

Impact principle

Glazing, texturing, tinting antiseptics are intended for finishing a wooden house outside and in the interior; they can be applied directly to wood material or over primers on the same base (water or organic). The purpose of decorative treatment (slow down the aging of wood, reduce cracking, protect from moisture and dirt, prevent damage to flexible wood or bugs.

Varieties for saunas and baths, in addition, are characterized by an increased hydrophobic effect (the ability to repel moisture from the surface). At the same time, the natural texture and smell of wood is preserved. Some products (for example, SENEZH Sauna) have an additional antimicrobial effect and destroy common types of pathogens of infectious diseases in humans.

The compositions can be colorless or tinted in the natural shades of wood of various species. There are also matte, satin (polished) and glossy preparations. Many glazing antiseptics can be tinted. After applying antiseptic impregnations for a wooden house in areas of high abrasion (stairs, railings, terraces), it is advisable additional protection varnishes.

For deeper penetration of glazing antiseptics into wood, the procedure for wall treatment should include preliminary cleaning of old coating and dust, application of primer compositions (we recommend choosing antiseptic primers from the same company on the same, aqueous or organic, base with the finishing composition).

Do not use exterior treatment products in the interior unless specified in the instructions. Compositions prepared on an organic basis have a better degree of protection, but may contain toxic substances and have an unpleasant odor.

Chemical protection at home (affordable and effective method extend original appearance, delay the aging of wood, protect the house from fungal and biological damage, and fire hazards. Along with preserving the natural beauty of the wood texture, you can simultaneously refine the color of the walls, add gloss to the facade, and increase the overall lifespan of the house by several decades.

Processing a wooden house. Video

Houses and bathhouses made from logs are again in growing demand due to the high environmental friendliness of wood and the low cost of such buildings. However, like others natural materials, the tree is susceptible to rotting and is afraid of various pests, so it will have to be protected with additional coatings. What is the best way to cover the outside of a log house so that it can last? long term, and the logs were reliably protected?

Protective impregnation options

When choosing how to cover the outside of a log house, you have to take into account several aspects: the protective layer must preserve the natural qualities of the wood so that the house has a pleasant atmosphere and there are no problems with air exchange. The covering for a log house must perform several functions: it must create reliable bioprotection from microbes and pests, protect the wood from fire, in addition, finishing has an important decorative value.

To provide your home with comprehensive protection, you will need to purchase the following types of products:

• Antiseptics of domestic or imported origin. These are substances that can be deeply absorbed into wood, increasing its resistance to pathogenic microbes.

There are quite a lot of such products offered today: the most common are “Senezh”, “Belinka”, “Pinotex”, “Neomid 500”, and impregnation from the Finnish company “Tikkurila” has also proven itself well. Many people trust Finnish antiseptics, since this country has a centuries-old culture of building wooden houses.

• Fire retardants are substances that prevent the spread of fire. They are absorbed into the wood, and when the temperature rises significantly, they come out, forming a film that prevents combustion. Fire retardant treatment must be carried out, since fire is always a very significant threat to a wooden structure.
• The tree must also be protected from street humidity, snow and wind, so you can choose the right product from a wide range of paints and varnishes. Alkyd and acrylic paints for exterior use are now popular; they can be either “dull” or translucent. The second option is chosen by those who appreciate the natural beauty of wood and want to maintain maximum environmental friendliness of the building.

The color can be added directly to the antiseptic impregnation, in which case you can save on purchasing paint. Antiseptics often have a faint green tint: this allows you to better track which areas of the wall have been treated to prevent skips and uneven coverage.

What happens if you don’t treat the log house? Opinions are often expressed that wood can do without impregnation, because old wooden houses in the north last 100 years.

However, we must not forget that only winter forest with dense wood, and in cold climates the decay process is slower. In addition, we must not forget about aesthetic side: The logs will darken very quickly, and blue mold spots will very soon appear on the untreated timber.

When should you treat wood?

When choosing what to cover a log bathhouse with, it is important to correctly determine the processing time. The wood is subjected to the first impregnation during the initial processing, but it does not last long. Its purpose is only to ensure that the wood is delivered intact to the site, and then the owner himself must take care of the future home.

The log house is treated with an antiseptic for the first time immediately after assembly. Wood has natural humidity, and it will take a long time to dry. After assembly, the ends of the frame must be processed by special means: This will ensure even drying along the length of the log, so the end will crack much less.

A layer of antiseptic is applied, after which the log house is left for at least six months for final drying. This is usually done in the fall in order to begin full finishing in the spring.

When the tree dries, a full multi-layer treatment is carried out, which will provide it with comprehensive protection.

Log processing rules

Having decided on what to cover the exterior of the bath house with, you need to purchase necessary tools. Processing with a brush will take a lot of time, but it will also be of the highest quality, since the entire wall will be covered with compounds.

To speed up the process, you can use a spray gun or garden sprinkler. Impregnations have a liquid consistency, so processing will be easy. Basic rules and sequence of actions:

• The wood must first be sanded. Sanding will remove bark residues and various wood defects.

Sanding is especially important when deciding what to coat with. old log house. It will remove traces of rot and mold, after which you can proceed to further processing.

It must be remembered that not a single protective agent, contrary to the assurances of manufacturers, is eternal. After 5-7 years, mandatory re-treatment will be required, otherwise the house may be left without protection. To extend the life of the house and the applied coatings, the outer side is covered with siding, clapboard, block house or other facade finishing materials.

Proper processing of the log house will ensure its long life, while the house will remain just as environmentally friendly and very beautiful. It is no coincidence that log houses are becoming more and more popular; they are a traditional option that will never become outdated.

All photos from the article

During operation, any wooden house must withstand the influence of a number of climatic factors without consequences, but provided that reliable protection. Impregnation of log house walls with antiseptic – great way ensure it, protecting it from rotting, and the wood will become unattractive to pests.

Do logs need additional protection?

When choosing a log for a log house, you need to think about its durability in advance.

The fact is that different ways treatments greatly affect the wood's resistance to rotting:

• rounded logs, compared to other types of round timber, are especially susceptible to moisture; their natural protection is practically nullified during processing. The fact is that during calibration, not only the bark, but also a thick layer of dense wood is removed from the trunk;

Note! Sometimes when processing on lateral surface even the core of the trunk comes out. In this case, the log has practically no natural protection, so impregnation is simply necessary, and as deep as possible.

• but only the bark is lost, the protective layer of very hard wood remains. Impregnation is also needed here, but the durability of a log house made of such material will be higher. The only thing that may confuse you is the high price of debarked round timber compared to round timber;

• occupy an intermediate position between debarked and rounded.

Impregnating wood with antiseptics not only provides protection from rot and insects, but also reveals the texture of the wood. So you can apply a layer of clear varnish on top, and the wooden surface will already look good.

You can come across recommendations not to use impregnation at all for a log house, they say the round timber will be preserved perfectly as it is. But it’s better to treat the wood at least to preserve it appearance, and the protection will be more reliable.

How to treat logs

The choice of special compounds for treating wooden surfaces is very wide. For the most part, all popular antiseptics provide good protection against moisture and insects, the only thing is that you need to not confuse the means for external treatment and internal treatment. Indoors, compounds are usually used that do not release substances harmful to humans.

Internal processing of log houses

Processing logs with inside is also necessary, although operating conditions will be more gentle than outside, but the humidity level may vary depending wide range, and you shouldn’t forget about insects.

As for the types of products used, the following types of solutions can be distinguished:

• easy to wash out– an example is saline solution. It's too much a budget option, it can only be recommended for processing auxiliary buildings and then as a temporary measure;

• penetrating - treating rounded logs with this composition guarantees the penetration of the antiseptic to a decent depth (depending on the type of wood, but in most cases it will reach a depth of 5-7 mm). They do not wash out over time, and also allow the wood to breathe;
• film-forming– are used rather to decorate the surface of the wood; the liquid does not penetrate deep into the wood. Such compositions are applied after impregnation with an antiseptic to give the desired shade to the wood.

To treat wooden surfaces inside the house, you can use, for example, SenezhAquadecor. It does not stain the surface of the wood, is absorbed deeply enough and does not create an impenetrable layer on the surface after drying, so the logs are not in danger of rotting from the inside.

Processing of a log house after installation from logs includes impregnation of rafter frames, as well as elements wooden floors. Since they will not be visible, it is advisable to use compositions with coloring properties. This is done so that the treated and untreated areas can be clearly distinguished.

Antiseptics can stain wood green tint, but the shade of the surface treated with fire retardant is reddish. Of course, such compositions are not suitable for treating floors or ceilings.

Sanding is a mandatory operation that is performed inside and outside the house after the end of the shrinkage processes occurring in the wooden structure after construction. Sanding removes various defects from logs, removes blue stains, and evens out the surface. Sanded wood must be subjected to further processing in a short time, otherwise the surface will become covered with a dark coating, which can only be removed by repeated sanding. The processing of the log house inside the house after grinding is carried out with special antiseptic preparations that perform protective functions and protect wood from adverse factors of natural and biological origin. From the article you will learn how to treat a log house after sanding.

During sanding, the remaining bark, knots and irregularities are removed from the logs, thus completely removing the outer layer of wood. After the surface is sanded, the logs are left unprotected and, without proper treatment, are exposed to various adverse effects.

The external walls of the house are negatively affected external factors. As a result of increased humidity, mold may appear on unprotected logs, fungus and microorganisms may settle. When exposed to ultraviolet radiation, wood may turn yellow. When wood overheats or freezes due to constant change temperature regime the surface may crack.

The internal walls of a wooden house are in more favorable conditions, but nevertheless also need protection. The fungus that causes wood to turn blue can also settle on the surface of logs due to improper use. It is especially important to protect wooden surfaces rooms where high humidity is constantly present: bathroom, bathhouse, sauna.

Please note that the processing of the log house after grinding the outside and inside of the house must be carried out no later than seven days. Otherwise, a dark coating will appear on the surface again.

Means for protecting a wooden house

For protective treatment of the house after grinding, several groups of drugs are used:

• antiseptics;
• flame retardants;
• complex compositions;
• bleaching agents.

Provide protection for wood from biological damage, which includes mold, different kinds fungi, microorganisms and insects.

Antiseptics are presented in two types:

1. Impregnations. Characterized by high absorbency. They penetrate several centimeters deep into the wood fibers, protecting the wood from biological damage, and also destroy existing pockets of mold, colonies of fungi and microorganisms.
2. Covering agents. They create a protective layer on the surface that does not allow moisture to penetrate into the wood. These preparations are especially relevant for wet rooms.

According to the duration of action, antiseptics are divided into the following groups:

1. Easy to wash. These products contain metal salts, which are quickly washed off under the influence of water and humidity. It is best to coat a wooden house from the inside with these preparations. However, these products are not suitable for baths, saunas and bathrooms.
2. Difficult to wash out. These preparations contain natural and artificial oils, they are resistant to moisture and other atmospheric conditions. Therefore, if the question is how to coat the outside of a log house after sanding, then it is best to use hard-to-rinse compounds for external treatment.
3. Short-term action. Such antiseptic impregnations are quickly absorbed into wood and are well tolerated. high humidity And high temperatures. They protect the tree not only from mold, but also from insects. Excellent for baths and saunas.

Antiseptics can be glazing and coating. The first ones create a transparent layer that completely preserves the natural grain of the wood. The latter form a tinted coating with a matte or glossy sheen.

Wood is very susceptible to fire, it ignites very quickly and burns well. To protect a wooden house from fire, it is necessary to cover the log house with special means - fire retardants. This group preparations are intended to protect wood from fire.

Fire retardants prevent ignition and allow wood to withstand open flames for a long time without catching fire.

There are two types of compositions:

1. Products containing sodium salts. When wood treated with this composition is exposed to fire, gases are released that prevent fire.
2. Non-salt preparations. The flame is blocked by the foam that forms on the wood when exposed to fire.

Complex means

The drugs in this group are universal. They protect the wood from different types adverse effects. The products prevent the penetration of moisture, protect the surface from fungus, mold and insects, and also prevent ignition.

Blue discoloration of logs is a very common occurrence. The reason for the formation of blue stains is a special fungus that settles in untreated wood. It is not always possible to get rid of blue spots with the help.

No matter how well the wood is sanded, fungal spores still remain and, under favorable conditions, will again begin to multiply vigorously. To completely destroy the fungus, the wood is treated with special agents.

All bleaches are divided into two large groups:

1. Chlorine-containing compounds. The main active ingredient in them is chlorine. It is better to treat the exterior of the log house with chlorine-based products.
2. Products that do not contain chlorine. The active substances in them are hydrogen peroxide, ammonia, alkali, and oxalic acid. Chlorine-free preparations are suitable for treating timber inside the house.

The principle of operation of all products is to oxidize the surface, which leads to discoloration of the pigment and destruction of fungal spores.

Before processing log walls Using protective agents, it is necessary to remove all dust and shavings formed during sanding from the surface with a vacuum cleaner, and then wipe the wood with a rag.

Temperature environment during processing it should be no lower than plus five degrees with a humidity of about 80%.

Impregnations are applied in the following sequence: antiseptic, bleaching agent, fire-fighting agent.

Antiseptic and fire retardant impregnation is applied in two layers. Each new layer is applied after completely dry previous, approximately 24 hours later. After using bleach, the surface is washed with water.

The company "Master Srubov" carries out processing and painting of wooden houses at a high level professional level. We use only high-quality and certified antiseptics from well-known manufacturers.

Our company’s specialists perform the processing carefully and carefully, strictly following the work technology. We guarantee high quality painting, compliance with contractual deadlines, cleanliness of the site.

You can call a specialist and ask your questions using the coordinates on the page.