During pouring concrete mortar Each layer is compacted. This is done manually by punching the mixture laid in layers with rods made of different materials(metal, wood). All work can be done much faster using special devices- vibrators. But the factory vibrating plate purchased for home use, is not always an economically viable option because it is expensive. It doesn’t make any sense to work on it several times and then leave it to just lie there. In this case, you can make a vibrator for concrete from a hammer drill with your own hands. A homemade product will speed up the compaction process and improve the quality of the work.

To implement the project in practice, you will need the following: materials and tools:

• metal (steel) plate of the required dimensions, thickness from 50 to 70 mm;
• iron rod or fittings (rectangular or round section) of such length that it is possible to reach the bottom of the exposed formwork structure when pouring concrete;
• perforator;
• an old drill or a pick, a shovel, a chisel, even a crown;
• grinder with metal discs;
• welding machine with electrodes;
• ruler or tape measure;
• marker.

The minimum power of the hammer drill should be 1.5 kW - only such a tool will provide the required performance without overheating.

One side of the rod with a cross-section of 15-20 mm is processed so that it can be inserted into a punch chuck. A stainless steel plate is welded to the second side. For this you will need special electrodes.

It is better that the rod is also made of of stainless steel . Concrete is aggressive environment. Ordinary metal is highly susceptible to chemical substances, and also wears out faster mechanically.

The sequence of manufacturing the tamping nozzle is as follows:

• cut off with a grinder steel sheet a rectangle of the required dimensions, and a piece from a round or rectangular rod required length;
• weld the plate to either end of the rod;

• cut with a small margin seat borax;

• weld it to the rod.

If you do not use an old drill, you will need to make a special adapter for the hammer drill chuck, or use machine tools to grind out a seat at the free end of the rod. The easiest way is to immediately use a drill of the required length. On the basis of a hammer drill, you can make more complex devices, for example, with a flexible shaft, which will additionally mix the working solution.

A homemade tamper for small-sized concrete (the simplest manufacturing option) is presented in the video.

Owners of dachas or private houses are often faced with the need to dig holes for fence posts or pile supports. For drilling the earth it is used as hand tool, and equipped with an electric or fuel drive (for example, gasoline). In the first case, the work will take longer and also require greater labor costs. Buying or renting powerful devices is expensive, so craftsmen have figured out how to make a homemade hole drill from a hammer drill.

But homemade devices, compared to factory-made analogues, have the following disadvantages:

• they can only drill relatively shallow holes, not large diameter;
• They are not suitable for working on hard soils.

Structurally homemade devices consist of three parts:

• hammer drill;
• conventional earthen auger;
• adapter or gearbox.

The last 2 parts of the device can be made with your own hands. Even for sale special attachment (auger) for drilling, which is attached to a powerful hammer drill or drill. A working tool made in this way is shown in the photo below.

An important point is the amount of power and the number of revolutions of the hammer drill, which will be used in conjunction with the drilling device. Optimal value first parameter for hand model homemade pit drill is 2 kW. It should be taken into account that, depending on the number of revolutions, the drill can be connected directly to the hammer drill chuck or through a gearbox. For 2 kW models the latter is not needed.

The optimal number of revolutions of the working nozzle for drilling is from 60 to 300 per minute. This value depends on the properties of the soil in the area.

Drilling is performed in two ways:

• continuous;
• with periodic removal of soil.

In the first case, you will need a more powerful tool (with more torque).

Algorithm for making a homemade drill

To make a drill for holes with your own hands, you will need, in addition to a hammer drill, the following tools and materials:

• angle grinder;
• a welding machine with the appropriate grade of electrodes for the metal used;
• electric drill;
• unnecessary hammer drill;
• metal fittings or rod for making a rod;
• material for the cutting part;
• cable and sockets to make a simple extension cord.

The work of converting a hammer drill into a device that can be used to drill holes in the ground involves directly in creating nozzles. All work is performed in the following sequence:

• cut a piece of the required length from a rod or tube using a grinder (about a meter is enough if the power of the tool is 2 kW);
• knives are attached to the lower end (connection methods and design features of the cutting part are discussed below);
• cut off its base from the drill, intended for installing this attachment in the hammer drill chuck;
• weld the cut piece to the tube.

The simplest version is ready for use in work. If you do not use the base from an old hammer drill, you will need to grind a seat from a rod for the tool chuck or for the adapter you are using.

In addition to the manual model, you can make something like a stationary drilling rig , possible variant which is shown in the photo below.

To provide power to a homemade pit drill, you will need to purchase or make your own extension cord.

The operation of the created device is shown in the video.

Manufacturing of the cutting part

The following are used as knives:

• drives from circular saws suitable diameter;
• ready-made augers from factory motorized drills or agricultural machinery;
• a metal sheet from which circles of the required diameter are cut, sharpening them and bending them as required.

The cutting part can be made removable (with a bolted connection) or non-removable (welded to the rod). Both options are shown in the photos below.

Cutting part design must meet the following parameters:

• be larger in diameter (5 mm is enough) than this parameter for the holes being created;
• the angle between the blades needs to be 25-30 degrees;
• The front (cutting) part of the knives should be sharpened at an angle of 45°-60°.

It is advisable to make the tip of the drill from a drill designed for drilling metal, so that the tool penetrates the soil mass more easily.

At its core, converting a hammer drill into a vibrator or earth drill consists of manufacturing an attachment that is appropriate in functionality and size. Difficulties can only arise if you independently prepare a seat for a cartridge or adapter on the rods. In general, the production of the considered options will not require much time and effort.

I'll tell you my experience. Elmotor 2 kW with gearbox. On the shaft Bur TISE. Tight clay. Two long handles on the motor/gearbox to hold (like a mustache), each about 90 cm. 1 revolution in 2.3333 sec.
In short, if you come across a stone or a large root, it is impossible to hold it. There's a lot of power.

Well, nafik manual elbur)

Helpful information. Thank you.

What kind of tavern?

Again, what kind of tavern? What is the thickness of the steel?

Why can’t you do expansion with the same drill?

Oh, yes, there is no need to cut off the handles from the actual TISE drill. They are convenient. I just welded the adapter on top to the center of the handle...
Good luck..

The handle of the chise drill does not need to be cut off if the space allows it to rotate within such a radius (this is not the case with a hand-held motor drill, but with a frame drill or whatever else you can call it).

This is a very interesting idea to discuss.
Which drive should you choose - stationary or light mobile?
A stationary drilling rig is also difficult to pull, with or without wheels.
I chose the mobile option.
Firstly, the electric motor with gearbox must be light in weight. It must be movably removed/put on a drill (any kind).
Secondly, high speeds on the main shaft will wind the driller and he will work in constant fear. Low speeds will reduce the risk of the worker winding up (wrapped up). But too low speeds are not needed - hold for a long time (the person still gets tired).
Thirdly - yes simply simpler design and therefore cheaper!

And for money, you can hire any drillers...
...do unnecessary crap. excitement of adnak. I also suffer from this...

And further. Please hear me. A mobile drilling rig (when you hold it with your hands) is a dangerous thing! I saw in the video how the driller could not hold a 2 kW Rebir with a TISE drill in his hands. The revs are too high! But he himself couldn’t keep up with the rotation. It's not far from injury! The turnover must be balanced!
In short, I am against attaching long handles to the 2kW Rebir and drilling with comfort. This is dangerous!.. With standard handles, you will release the drill yourself, and then that’s it. The drive should be smarter - light and with comfortable speeds! something like that...

I somehow didn’t understand you - are you still in favor of a mobile installation (holding the handle with your hands) or a stationary installation (installation on a frame)?
Personally, I’m in favor of a stationary one, because I’ll be drilling alone, with a maximum of two + lifting, lowering the device yourself with a mobile installation + centering... and with a stationary installation, lifting occurs with the help of a winch, you don’t need to worry about centering, you don’t need to keep yourself in fear, that right now, like a stone, someone will hit you in the head with the handle or something else more important. And in the hospital, if it hits a stone or something else, it will tear off the key (nail, etc.), which is located between the adapter and the drill shaft.

The modern market is saturated various kinds construction tools and devices. Take, for example, a hole drill: today you can easily find a device whose cost is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely satisfy the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing simpler: buy and use. But you shouldn’t always rush into such an acquisition. The fact is that budget equipment in practice does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or is even not at all capable of performing the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, engine speed drops due to heavy load, etc.

Buy a powerful and expensive device for a small volume of construction or gardening work– not always advisable. Renting is also not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, craftsmen strive to use the equipment they already have at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.

Earth drill from a drill

In most cases, a mechanized hole drill is a power plant ( powerful drill or gasoline engine), which is connected to a conventional hand drill using a simple mechanical drive. You can make a drill yourself.

DIY drill bit.

You can find a ready-made serial drill for sale.

skyle User FORUMHOUSE

Many people say that they simply bought such an auger and secured it to it a powerful low-speed electric drill.

Engine characteristics

Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. Let's start with the fact that the power plant can be connected to the drill either directly or through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a gearbox for themselves. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special frame, and you have to hold it with your hands during operation).

jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE

At first, a gearbox was planned, but after field tests with the “drill - auger” scheme, it was decided to abandon the gearbox. The moment is such that it does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).

The power indicator - 2 kW - was not chosen by chance. These are the drills most often used by our forum participants in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.

Tri.Dr.E User FORUMHOUSE

Have construction experience columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a 2 kW drill and an auger designed for a hole diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of the drill is somewhere around 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling, I used an extension cord from a regular steel pipe. The soil in my place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth - 1.8 - 1.9 m).

In order to make holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a frame, winch and other accessories).

But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW (even without a gearbox) is capable of.

A little theory

If we consider the relationship between the power of a drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, it is determined by the following relationship:

• N – power (W).
• M – torque (Nm).
• n – number of revolutions (rpm).
• 9549 – special coefficient.

Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at a speed of 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm at 300 rpm). But to calculate torque, it is always necessary to take into account losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most power tool manufacturers indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3...1/4 less than the consumed power. Accordingly, the torque is less. A 2 kW drill at 300 rpm will create a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.

When choosing a power unit for your pit drill, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will have to seriously think about introducing a reduction gear into the design of the drilling rig.

uvl77 User FORUMHOUSE

Regarding the gearbox: a gearbox is good because it allows you to proportionally change the speed and torque without changing the power. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).

Based on the torque created by a 2 kW drill (without an additional gearbox), you can choose a suitable device for your hole drill. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the value of torque that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the speed of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.

uvl77 User FORUMHOUSE

The optimal speed during drilling is from 60...100 to 200...300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, drilling method, type of drill bits, well diameter, etc.

The above quote mentions drilling methods. There are two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant soil removal. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide high torque.

During drilling with constant soil removal, an auger drilled into the soil to a certain depth rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also removed out.

The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the specified depth. The process is labor-intensive, but does not require large torques.

As we have already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews from FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have proven themselves quite well. The power of gasoline engines must also correspond to the specified indicator.

Gearboxes for pit drills and their varieties

The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, devices and components that have been lying idle for a long time because there was no worthy use for them. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical reduction gear can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for an old moped, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying around on an old shelf in the garage, etc.

When equipping a drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal speed of the drill and the fact that it is necessary to ensure sufficient torque on its working shaft.

Mechanic020 User FORUMHOUSE

I had a broken moped lying around, so I took it from rear gearbox. I sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back part of the aluminum housing with the gearbox), then secured it through a gear transmission This gearbox is powered by an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with gearbox gave a ratio of 13:1 (the output turned out to be approximately 300 rpm).

About the chain drive: with a certain amount of ingenuity, you can, without making much effort, build a completely reliable hole drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many people successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).

jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE

There is no gearbox, although it was planned to make it from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its sprockets. The gear ratio is 1:2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Maybe use it on very hard soils, but we don’t have those.

The use of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to assembling the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox (or the opportunity to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. Here, for example, is a photo of a gearbox posted by user melomandk.

Melomandk User FORUMHOUSE

I found such a gearbox. But the gear ratio is large - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (according to the body) – about 15 x 15 cm.

As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.

di griz User FORUMHOUSE

My hole drill is based on just such a gearbox. So far I'm very pleased. The engine is an angle grinder (3000 output rpm). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I didn’t try to drill into clay, but I did take a hole drill into hard compacted earth with inclusions of crushed stone and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are homemade - made from springs.

bed

If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be secured in a special frame.

The design of homemade frames, as well as that of mechanical reduction gears, can be very diverse. But there are design elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.

Lifting mechanism

A chain drive installed inside the central pillar can be used as a lifting mechanism. Raising and lowering is carried out either using an additional electric motor or using a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).

jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE

The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). There was no need to go deeper. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.

In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.

Another lift design involves the use steel cable and winches with an additional electric motor.

Mechanic020 User FORUMHOUSE

By square pipe The main electric motor of the drill moves up and down. It moves thanks to a winch (which I already had). This winch is needed to pull the drill with soil out of the well.

For comfort Mechanic020 made a remote control that controls the winch and rotation of the drill during operation.

The drill, together with the soil adhering to it, can create quite large loads on the winch. At great depths, it will work on the principle of a piston, creating a vacuum underneath and aggravating the situation when rising upward. Therefore, the more powerful the winch used, the better.

DmitryEvg User FORUMHOUSE

My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through the chain hoist). Power – 1 kW.

Bottom support for bed

The lower support of the frame can be equipped with two wheels (for convenient movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, the installation will be transferred from the transport position to the working position by simply tilting the bed.

On supporting elements It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the bed, which will help you adjust the drill in accordance with the vertical level before starting work.

Materials for the manufacture of the frame are selected for reasons of strength. Not everyone can independently perform complex structural calculations, but anyone can benefit from the experience of the participants of our portal.

Yes, user Tri.Dr.E I made a frame from a corner 50*50*5. Vertical supports and the upper crossbar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.

User jumper_at_home put different things into the design of the frame metallic profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from a steel sheet 10 mm thick.

And here is a photo of the installation that was created by the user PwrWW“from what was” (as he himself says).

PwrWW User FORUMHOUSE

The hardest thing was to find two smooth, solid three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they didn't exist, I would buy them profile pipe by 80 or 100 mm. Below I used a piece of 80 channel and a corner from scrap metal. Also among the scrap I found 4 U-shaped plates of suitable length.

Ideally, the carriage should be made in such a way that the drill operator can stand on it if necessary. It is especially important to comply with this condition on hard soils.

jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE

Here's what was used to protect the drill from turning: a steel stop angle - 6 mm, screwed to the hole for the handle, which is on the drill body. Everything is bolted together with sufficiently flat surfaces. If you want it even more securely, provide a clamp for the seat groove located on the end of the drill.

Mechanical drive

The design of the mechanical drive connecting the drill or other motor to the working shaft of the earth drill is not particularly complex. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into the drill chuck (Morse taper, etc.) and a cylindrical bushing, one end is welded to the adapter with bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the hole being drilled, removable elbows made of the same material as the drill rod can be inserted between the drill and the drill.

In order to prevent damage when the working element jams, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The pin is made of a metal rod - 4...8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a pin having a minimum diameter (4 mm).

Almost a pro User FORUMHOUSE

Imagine if your drill hits a stone and jams. I use a 4mm nail as a shear pin and it has never been cut off. But if an obstacle is encountered, it doesn’t give too much away.

Homemade drill

As we have already said, the working part of the installation (drill) can be purchased at a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, homemade drill with removable blades.

To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made of thick metal sheet(6...10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Article 65G). If you need a garden hole drill of small diameter, then you can use ordinary springs from a truck.

To make blades, you can use circular saw blades.

The diameter of the drill should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes being drilled.

We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.

By discarding the top handle, we get exactly what we need.

The design of a homemade drill must meet the following parameters:

• The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25° to 30°.
• The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45°...60°.
• It is advisable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, which will make it easier for the installation to penetrate dense soil.

How to attach a garden auger to a drill.

When building a house and arranging a site, it is often necessary to do round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same holes, but of a larger diameter and depth, are required when constructing. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. They are available in stores sufficient quantity, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.

Designs and Applications

Garden gardeners that are easier to make earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not just about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden auger is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.

Materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.

Blade knives can be made from:

It's easier to make blades from saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the soil easier to cut.

The spear-drill is made from different materials - there are many different designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of large diameter rod. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.

Pike - one of the tip options

And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made from round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and fastening method

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.

One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters

You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the chosen rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

From a saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of suitable diameter, you have found almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.

Such a homemade drill for earthworks shows quite high performance. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.

If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with. The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you will suffer from carrying a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.

And all these are hand-made drills. They are all different high efficiency— much easier to work with than store-bought ones.

Auger drill

Auger drill due to large quantity turns creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - for water, devices for underground probes for heat pump and so on.

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are placed on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Drill for TISE piles

In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.

DIY drill for TISE piles- one of the options

A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.

The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to folding design on bolted connections.

The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.

Blueprints

A self-made drill is good because its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary; they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.

There is no point in making a serious structure for planting plants. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments and saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

If the ground is soft, conventional design doesn't work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

This drawing shows an interesting handle design - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden auger

Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be taken out often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Garden auger drawing

Video materials

Today, no one will be surprised by the fact that specialists often use an electric or gasoline-powered earth drill. This allows them to significantly reduce drilling time, and a person spends virtually no physical effort with such equipment. In this article, maximum attention will be focused on electric drills for excavation work.

Modern drills - types, which one to choose?

First, let's figure out what drills exist today. All models can be safely divided into three types.

1. Hand drills. This type is used for drilling, as a rule, single holes. When using it, you need to apply a lot of physical force.
2. Gasoline drills. This type of equipment is very common. It can be used for both individual and professional construction. The units are powerful and productive.
3. Electric motor drills. These units are not as powerful as gasoline units, however, their operation does not require much physical effort. They are convenient for individual construction, when drilling holes for posts, when planting trees and bushes. However, it is worth remembering that the garden electric drill will only work if you have an extension cord for the electrical network.

To summarize, we can conclude:

• the first type is simple, but not productive,
• the second type is powerful, productive and can be used when working on any soil,
• third type ( electric drill) – less productive, requires a wired extension cord, can be used in individual construction.

Considering these characteristics, you can easily choose exactly the drill that is right for you!
Let's look at the technical characteristics of two models of electric drills.

Electric drill model Texas ea1200

Let's look at its main technical characteristics:

• power 1200 W;
• maximum drilling diameter 150 mm;
• maximum drilling depth 800 mm;
• generated noise level 90 dB;
• weight 12.8 kg.

Specifications:

• power 1050 W;
• maximum drilling depth 1 m;
• drilling diameter range 80 – 200 mm;
• weight 14 kg.

As can be seen from the presented technical characteristics Electric hole drills are significantly inferior to some models that run on a gasoline engine. Therefore, if you need to drill the soil often and a lot, then you should give preference to gasoline equipment. For rare use, an electric one is ideal.

You can make any drill with your own hands, but to make an electric or gasoline drill, you will need a lot of parts, tools and a solid base of knowledge. Therefore, if you are thinking about making a homemade drill, then the easiest way for you to make a hand drill.

To make it you don’t need a lot of material or special tools. Special attention When making it, it is worth paying attention to the drill blade. Often, a chainsaw disc is used to make the blade. Using a grinder, it is cut into two parts and welded to the rod at an angle. Such a drill can be used in private households, but you should understand that during its operation it will be necessary to exert a lot of physical force.