Installing a bathtub is quite hard work in the truest sense of the word. This is especially true for cast iron plumbing, which can be an almost impossible task to install alone.

For installation of even relatively light acrylic bathtubs, it is better to find an assistant, since any awkward manipulations can lead to damage to the body, coating or drain parts.

What to consider before starting work

Before you begin installing the bathtub yourself, take a critical look own capabilities— Do you have enough skills to install plumbing fixtures practically by touch? Although we note that even very modest skills acquired, for example, during installation kitchen sink, should be enough for successful installation of the bathtub.

When purchasing plumbing fixtures made of acrylic, be prepared for the fact that the work will have to be carried out with extreme care - if handled carelessly, the bathtub can become warped, resulting in the coating cracking. It will also be damaged if the working tool accidentally falls into the bowl. In addition, during installation in the body of an acrylic bathtub, you will have to drill blind holes, and given that this material is extremely easy to drill, it is quite possible to overdo it and hole the bathtub right through.

What you need to know about cast iron baths

Before you purchase cast iron bath, you need to familiarize yourself with its features as carefully as possible:

1. It is better to rest such a bathtub on three walls at once, especially if it is installed on open decorative legs, since the latter can easily break from the lateral force applied to the bathtub.
2. It is advisable to attach the siphon to the drain hole in advance, but again the heavy bath will have to be moved once again, which can lead to various damages.
3. Cast iron bathtubs are quite expensive to purchase, but their operation is also expensive.

When installing cast iron, be careful not to damage the tiles on the floor.
To do this, they usually place bricks under the legs.

Cast iron takes quite a long time to warm up - in order to fill a bathtub with warm forty-degree water, a boiler that heats water to 60 degrees will require about 100 liters of water. For comparison, the same acrylic bathtub will require only 50 liters of water, heated in a boiler to 60 degrees. It should also be taken into account that cast iron releases the received heat much faster, therefore, in terms of efficiency cast iron bath inferior to acrylic by more than two times.

Features of acrylic bathtubs

Unlike cast iron, acrylic bathtubs They are quite light, which makes it possible to install them alone. In the production of acrylic sanitary ware, enterprises do not experience any technological difficulties associated with giving the products any complex shape, so you can find a variety of samples on sale, but at the same time they are quite inexpensive.

The thermal conductivity of this material is quite low so that the bath does not cool down for a long time, while heating it occurs almost instantly. This is associated with significant savings in the operation of acrylic plumbing, as mentioned above.

The assembled frame should be attached to the acrylic bathtub in the bathroom,
otherwise it may not fit through a standard 60 cm doorway.

The main disadvantage of acrylic bathtubs is their relatively low strength and service life not as long as cast iron ones. However, with careful use it can last up to 15 or even 20 years. Review - read the next article.

The installation method for acrylic bathtubs also differs from cast iron ones, which is due to the characteristics of the material.

Installation of cast iron baths

A cast iron bathtub, as previously noted, is extremely heavy, and some features of its installation are associated with this circumstance:

Installation of acrylic bathtubs

The first step when installing an acrylic bathtub will be to attach guides for the legs to its bottom, which are attached to the bottom with self-tapping screws.

All markings are carried out in accordance with the instructions, while the supports are installed strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bathtub.

The places where the legs are attached usually have an increased thickness of acrylic.
If this is not there, glue it wooden blocks and screw it to them.

It is necessary to drill blind holes for self-tapping screws with a drill with a limiter approximately 3/4 of their length. After this, the legs themselves are installed, and the drain fittings are installed.

Provision should be made for a pipe extension for bypass.

The side of the bath sits on plastic hooks, which are attached to the wall with dowels.

The bathtub is installed in the desired place and adjusted in height using adjusting screws.

Note. There is no need to adjust the slope of the bathtub to drain; it is built in when the tide of the bathtub bowl is low.

All cracks are sealed with silicone, the build-up of which can be removed with a rag soaked in a vinegar solution.

There is also an option for restoring a bathtub - read all the details of this method in a separate article.

When installing, an important role is played by the height to which you can raise the bathtub above the level of the sewer inlet. It should be raised higher for two reasons:

1. The flow from the bath will become more intense. In this case, it is not so much the speed of water removal that is important, but the fact that a powerful drain will almost completely eliminate the formation of hairballs on the drain grid and in the siphon.
2. The high location of the bath will make it possible to install a siphon with a deep elbow and, accordingly, a good water seal, which will significantly reduce the likelihood of the penetration of unpleasant odors and harmful gases in reverse from the sewer.

Deep knee - protection from unpleasant odors sewer

The choice of material is also important. In most cases, it is made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polypropylene. Latest material more expensive, but at the same time it is stronger, more durable, its walls are smoother, which minimizes the possibility of blockages.

A few words should also be said regarding the choice of drain. So, siphon models are too cheap, metal grid which are attached to a bolt, can essentially be considered non-separable, and therefore non-repairable. The fact is that after a few months, the rust grabs the bolt so much that it is not possible to unscrew it without breaking the siphon. In this case, it does not even matter what metal the hardware is made of - steel or, for example, bronze or brass. It’s just that in the first case we will observe the usual chemical corrosion, and in the rest - electrochemical.

In conclusion, we note that For an overflow in the bathroom, you should absolutely not use a rigid pipe. A flexible corrugated hose is quite suitable for this, which, on the one hand, is extremely easy to install, and on the other hand, due to its greater internal diameter provides better water permeability, which reduces the likelihood that water from the bathtub will overflow.

Old style cast iron bathtubs are quite difficult to move. But modern steel and acrylic models, due to their low weight, are quite unstable. If installed incorrectly, they will wobble during use or move out of place with the slightest push, ruining the finish of the walls and floor. Let's talk about how to fix a bathtub - steel or acrylic - to avoid such troubles.

The stability of the bathtub depends not only on the procedure for its installation, but also on the dimensions of the bowl of this plumbing fixture. In order for the bathtub to stand securely, its dimensions must correspond to the distance between the walls at the installation site, minus 2.5–3 centimeters on each side. Under such conditions, it will be easier to secure the bowl to the walls and floor. In addition, in this case there will be no gap between the bathtub and the walls, into which water will inevitably get in during use.

Features of steel bathtubs

Among all types of baths steel models The hardest thing to do is to keep it stationary. This is due to two features of their design:

• low weight of the bowl;
• lack of fastenings for legs.

On cast iron and acrylic models with outside bowls usually have special fasteners to which the legs can be securely screwed. Manufacturers steel baths abandoned these details. Since steel is quite soft material, there is a high risk that when used, the bathtub may bend under the weight of the water collected in it, plus the body immersed in it. In this case, the fasteners will inevitably damage the enamel coating of the bowl.

Legs for steel plumbing fixtures are usually a kind of trestles or supports. The bathtub is supposed to simply rest on them. Some leg models can be supplemented with an adhesive layer for more reliable fixation to the bottom of the bowl. But this doesn't improve the situation much. Therefore, it is recommended to use more reliable structural elements in addition to the legs.

How to fix a steel bathtub so it doesn't wobble

There are several ways to install a steel bathtub in a stable position. Most often it is recommended to make a brick stand under the plumbing bowl. But this option is not suitable for everyone. Firstly, doing brickwork requires certain skills and abilities. Not every homeowner can build a reliable stand with their own hands. And in this case, quite high demands are placed on the quality of the masonry, since it will be constantly exposed to moisture and serious weight.

Secondly, in many houses, especially those related to the old foundation, interfloor ceilings may simply not withstand the weight of the brick substrate. As a result, installing a bathtub can result in a utility accident for you and your neighbors below. Plus, not everyone wants to wait a few days until masonry mortar will dry and acquire the strength necessary for installing plumbing fixtures. Therefore it is better to use more simple options fixing the bathtub.

Advice: if you still want to install a steel bathtub on a stand, make it not from brick, but from gas block. This material weighs much less and is more convenient to install.

To the simplest and most reliable installation methods steel bath relate:

• fastening to walls using metal corners;
• installation on a metal profile frame;
• use of special fasteners.

Where does the installation of a bathtub begin?

Whatever installation method you choose, remember the main thing - installing a bathtub begins with fitting. First, the bowl is placed in the right place on its legs, its position is leveled and connected to the water supply and sewerage system. After this, you should check the performance of the product and especially the quality of water drainage. As you know, the bathtub should be under small angle: only in this case the drain will work correctly.

Having found out the optimal angle of inclination of the bowl by adjusting its height, mark the position of the sides on the wall. Using these marks, you will later install fasteners for the bathtub: steel or acrylic. After marking, turn off plumbing fixture from communications and take it out of the room.

Important! The final installation of a steel bathtub, regardless of the methods of its fastening, should be carried out after the floor of the room is completely finished with tiles or other material.

Installation of steel bowl on corners

Enough reliable option fastening the bathtub - in addition to the legs, rest its sides on wide metal corners screwed to the walls. This method will suit you if the walls of the room are made of sufficiently durable material and were leveled with plaster or tile adhesive. TO plasterboard structures It is better not to fasten the bathtub: they will not withstand such weight.

Important! Installation of corners should be done after finishing the walls of the room is completed.

You can hang the corners only on two walls, against which the short edges of the bowl will then rest, or on all three vertical surfaces, with which it will come into contact. To avoid damaging the finish, first use a special drill to make holes for fasteners in the tile. After that, you can drill through them directly into the wall, using, depending on its material, a drill bit with a pobedit tip or a hammer drill.

The location for attaching the corners should be determined by pre-made marks. At the same time, keep in mind that the bathtub will rest on them with its sides, but part of its weight should also fall on the legs. Don't forget to adjust for the thickness of the corner.

Installing a bathtub on a frame

If you plan to cover the space under the bowl, The best way, how to strengthen a steel bathtub so that it does not wobble is to place it on metal carcass. The structure is made from UD and CD wall profiles. The first is fixed to the floor using dowels as a base for the frame. The upper frame and supports for it are assembled from the second. It is also possible to produce welded supporting structure from:

• metal corner;
• steel pipes of suitable diameter.

Important! The size of the frame is selected in such a way that the profile of the upper frame fits snugly against the walls of the bowl, while the bathtub itself stands firmly on its legs.

Corner posts made of profiles are fastened to the upper and lower frames, and also, for greater reliability, attached to the walls of the room. The construction of the frame should be done after finishing the walls or, at least, after tiling that part of them that will be located above the bowl. Upon completion of installation, the frame can be sheathed plastic panels or plasterboard, which is then covered with tiles.

Important! When covering, do not forget to leave inspection hatch for access to communications located under the bathroom.

Using special fasteners

If the bathtub bowl rests firmly enough on the legs, you can limit yourself to attaching it to the wall using special fasteners. They are sold in a wide variety in construction and plumbing supermarkets. This operation should be carried out before finishing walls In the future, the fasteners are hidden under, which not only improves the aesthetics of the room, but also increases the reliability of the fastening.

The bathroom has always been and remains almost the main room in the house. It is from the comfort and convenience of acceptance water procedures In the morning, your mood for the whole day depends, and a pleasant bath in the evening will calm you down and set you up for a pleasant night's rest. Therefore, every owner strives to create maximum convenience in the bathroom. And here you can’t do without a spacious bath bowl. Of course, sometimes you have to do renovation work and update plumbing. The most difficult procedure is replacing the font, especially if you have to do it for the first time. So, installing a steel bath: the nuances of choosing ditches and what you will have to face during installation.

Steel baths: pros, cons of bowls and ways to eliminate shortcomings

Steel bathtubs have a durable enamel coating

The practicality of steel bowls has long been known to customers. In addition, cuvettes have one invaluable advantage - affordable cost. But, before you know how to install a steel bathtub, it’s worth understanding all the nuances in a little more detail. Steel bowls have many more advantages than disadvantages, especially since they can be easily eliminated. The main advantages include:

1. High-quality steel bathtubs have a particularly durable enamel coating. This is due to the fact that manufacturers literally “baker” the enamel into the surface. After this technological treatment, the enamel layer, like the steel itself, acquires a special level of strength.
2. Steel bathtubs do not lose their attractive appearance for a long time, remaining snow-white even after many years of use.
3. The plastic material allows the bowls to be made in the most various forms and modifications.
4. Light weight makes it easy to transport and install. Installation metal bath Doing it yourself is a completely affordable procedure for a person who has a little patience and free time.
5. Large size range. Due to the plasticity of the material, steel bathtubs are most often produced in atypical sizes.

Inexpensive models can become deformed under heavy loads

Flaws:

1. Bathtub models that are too cheap are prone to deformation under increased loads. Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands will be difficult, since any bending will lead to cracks in the enamel.

Advice! To prevent this from happening, you need to buy models with a wall thickness of at least 2.5-3 mm.

1. The high level of thermal conductivity of the metal does not require heating the walls when pouring water, but at the same time it gives off heat just as easily, which means that the question of how to insulate a steel bathtub needs to be addressed.

Advice! Insulation can be done using polyurethane foam, covering the bowl from the outside with it.

1. Noise threshold when filling a bowl. The hum can be reduced if you know how to properly install a steel bathtub and foam it on the back side.

Now all the advantages and disadvantages of steel ditches are clear and you can begin installation. So, how to install a metal bathtub, and what tools are needed for the work?

Materials and tools required for installing a steel bathtub

Bathtub Installation Tools

In order for the installation of a metal bathtub with your own hands to be excellent, you must have the following components:

• drill with attachments;
• wrench;
• dry cement and sand;
• plumbing sealant;
• insulating tape;
• polyurethane foam;
• waterproof enamel or paint;
• construction level;
• corrugated pipe;
• tub siphon fitting;
• drain/overflow

Installation iron bath Doing it yourself starts with checking the condition of the sewage system. If changes and additions are necessary, you need to improve the operation of the entire structure, otherwise the installation of the steel bathtub will be unsuccessful and everything will have to be redone.

Installation of a steel bathtub on corners, bricks or in a box must be done in such a way that it can be connected to the water supply system and taps without problems. In addition, a siphon, overflow, corrugated pipe for water drainage, and tees must be connected to the communications. Only after this, assemble the harness and treat the joints with sealant.

Advice! The bathtub harness is easy to assemble if you follow the instructions included with the product.

The choice of siphon is another point that must be taken into account before installing an iron bathtub. There are several types of accessories on sale that you can pay attention to:

1. Semi-automatic are designs that drain water by turning a special washer. You don't have to fumble around the bottom of the bathtub to find the stopper. One turn of the hinge, the plug rises and drains without unnecessary intervention;
2. Regular plastic construction Suitable for all types of bowls and requires minimal installation effort. In addition, such a siphon costs much less than a semi-automatic system.

Important! Some siphons are equipped with metal outlets mounted to the overflow using a bolt. Installation of such a device is simple, as is the installation of an iron bathtub in general, but when choosing this design, pay attention to the manufacturer: metal parts that do not have anti-corrosion treatment will become unusable too quickly!

Installation of a steel bath

Installation of a corner on the wall to support the font

You can install a steel bathtub yourself in the following way:

1. Tidy up the area of ​​the room where the bathtub will be located: fill/screed, lay tiles or other floor covering.
2. Provide the necessary supports. How to properly install an iron bathtub? It is best to install on 2.5 cm corners. To do this, holes are drilled in the corners themselves and markings are made on the wall. Afterwards, attach the corners to the marking points using self-tapping screws/dowels, keeping in mind the height of the legs of the bathtub bowl and the slope, which you must pay attention to during installation.

Advice! When mounting on a wall, the mounting angles must be in the same plane!

1. You need to continue attaching the steel bathtub to the wall with the bowl itself. Introduce the cuvette and place it in the prepared place (it is better to place it on its side). In this case, the bottom should be facing wall panel, and the hole through which the water will drain is located on the side of the sewer drain left in the floor.
2. The installation of the iron bathtub continues with the installation of legs in the upper side. The bolts do not need to be tightened to the limit; it is better to use moderate force, since with persistent pressure there is a danger of breaking the nut. Then screw on the second pair of legs, having first turned the bathtub onto the other side.

Advice! Adjustable legs can be purchased separately or you can look at the hot tub kit, which already includes supports of the desired type.

1. Checking the fastening strength and setting the height – next stage. Installation of a metal bathtub is shown to be carried out with a slight inclination towards the drainage of water.
2. Now you need to turn the bowl over, put it on its feet and fill the gap near the wall with foam, sealant or tile adhesive.

Height is adjustable with special retractable legs

Advice! Foaming is necessary to prevent moisture from getting into the gap, to ensure stability of the bowl if the load on one edge exceeds acceptable standards. To make the junction look aesthetically pleasing, it is decorated plastic corner, painted over or tiled.

1. Connecting the corrugated pipe and piping is the next step. Installation is carried out in the direction of the strapping and then the nut is tightened.
2. Knowing how to secure a steel bathtub and having completed all the steps, you need to check the correctness of the connection. To do this, water is drawn into the bowl and possible leaks are inspected. If the plug in the font is closed, but there is water leaking out, it means that the gasket is not installed well enough or the nut is not tightened completely. If there are no leaks, you need to drain the water and inspect the connection of the piping.
3. The last check will show how tight the connections are: wipe the floor under the bathroom dry, put toilet paper or blotting paper under the pipes. Fill the font with water to half the level (preferably boiling water), open the plug and wait until it drains completely. The paper is dry - everything is sealed and the insulation of the steel bath is perfect.

Important! Be sure to ground the steel bathtub! The procedure is simple: one end of the wire is attached to a metal structure, the other end is in the bathtub bowl. Under no circumstances should the bowl be grounded to the plumbing or heating system!

Insulation of a steel bath

Insulation of the font with polyurethane foam

It’s clear how to fix a metal bathtub; now it needs to be insulated. The need for this action is determined by the thinness of the walls of the iron bowl and high qualities thermal conductivity. Insulation of a steel bath can be done in two ways:

1. Foam outer surface bowls with ordinary polyurethane foam. This must be done without skipping and as carefully as possible. If, after the final insulation, additional decoration of the font is planned, the foam needs to be leveled.

Advice! After complete hardening, the foam can be painted, sewn up with plastic, or protected in some other way.

1. The bathtub bowl is framed with wooden/steel/plastic guides, creating the appearance of a lathing (frame). Then the structure is tiled. So when filling the bath hot water a thermos effect is created, that is, the air space between the bathtub wall and the tile heats up and retains heat.

Thermal insulation of a steel bath is not difficult, but necessary. A well-known decorative technique is leveling polyurethane foam with the effect of creating relief plaster, followed by painting with waterproof enamel. Foaming a steel bathtub is not at all difficult, but if you want to achieve the ideal effect, apply silicone sealant. The method guarantees ideal heat retention, which means that the consumption of boiling water will decrease several times.

Installation of an iron bathtub on bricks

Design diagram installed bath on bricks

Installing a steel bathtub on bricks is an option for users who prefer durability and reliability of installation. Experts believe that assembling a steel bathtub and installing it on supports will not provide the necessary immobility of the bowl and therefore strongly recommend using this method.

Assembling an iron bowl is extremely simple: each model is equipped with a set of supports, and there is a place for fastening at the bottom of the bowl. The presence of studs and washers guarantees durable reliable fastening. If the need arises, a set of adjustable legs can be purchased separately, as well as decorative overlays on supports. This will give the interior additional personality.

Installing a steel bathtub on bricks guarantees the immobility of the bowl, and this is required in order to:

1. achieving maximum convenience when using the bowl;
2. to avoid cracking of the joints at the junction of the sides and walls.

Advice! Cracks must be eliminated, since when using the bathtub, moisture can settle in them, and dampness contributes to the appearance of fungus, mold and further destruction of the lining.

How to fix a metal bathtub on a brick pad? First, you need to stock up on red brick, in sufficient quantity so that when installing the font, the upper edge of the side is at least 60 cm from the floor level. The required number of racks is selected according to the length of the bath. The distance between the posts must be at least 50 cm!

How to properly install a metal bathtub on bricks:

1. Prepare necessary tools And Consumables. If the font has standard length, you will need approximately 2 supports (2-3 rows high), 20-22 bricks, and for the recess under the bottom there is another half brick along the edge. The height of the support at the rear must exceed the height of the front wall of the support by 20 mm. This is necessary to ensure tilt.

Important! If the font design already has a slope/angle, then the height of the front support can be reduced to 10 mm.

1. Fastening a steel bathtub to bricks is done using cement mortar, which needs to be prepared in advance. To do this, mix 1 part cement powder with 4 parts fine sand. Added required amount water and after laying out the brick support, the structure is left for about 24 hours for better adhesion.

Finished look brick construction under the bath

Important! Before strengthening the steel bathtub with bricks, it is necessary to arrange a drain. Information on how to do this is above.

1. Installation of a metal bath on bricks should be done as carefully and carefully as possible. You need to move the bowl towards the wall panel very carefully, but firmly. Tile adhesive, a metal profile, screws or dowels will help fix the structure.

Advice! If you don't know how to securely install a steel bathtub on supports, use tape sealant.

1. After complete sealing, the bathtub bowl must be connected to the sewerage and water supply systems.

Installation of taps and a protective decorative screen completes the process of installing an iron bathtub. Now you know how to properly secure a steel bathtub, but if you have questions, the video below will provide answers to possible problems.

Many users have no idea how to lift a steel bathtub. Everything is simple here: the bowl is lightweight, so when standard sizes, with a mass of font House master will cope without any problems.

Finally

There are many possibilities on how to secure an iron bathtub. The instructions included with the hot tub upon sale clearly explain all installation options. But if you don’t have the knowledge, time and energy to do the installation yourself, a professional will tell you how to fix a steel bathtub.

If you install a cast iron bathtub, you don’t have to worry about it moving out of place. But when installing a steel bath, some difficulties arise.

The main problem is to install the steel bath, which is a lighter and more flexible container, as stable as possible. In our selection, we will look at how to firmly fix (strengthen) a steel bathtub with your own hands.

How does a steel bath work?

Before looking at bathtub installation methods, it’s worth considering its design. Typically, such a bathtub does not have special mounts on which the legs can be attached. Because of this, there are no devices in the steel bath that can firmly fix the bowl. If, nevertheless, the bathtub has devices for fastening legs, the steel bathtub may bend under significant human weight, and in this case the fastening may cause damage to the enamel.

The manufacturer usually provides legs with the bathtub, but their quality and design do not allow the steel bathtub to be firmly fixed. In this case, you can additionally purchase self-adhesive legs, which are suitable for all types of bathtubs. This measure will add some stability to the bath.

This method is suitable if the bathtub will be secured only with legs, without additional accessories. Naturally, when installing such a steel bathtub on brick stands, legs are not needed.

Methods for attaching a steel bathtub

If you plan to install the bathroom separately, you can install a metal frame or make a frame out of bricks to secure it firmly. Then all sides of the bathtub are additionally sheathed in order to hide the installed frame. This option is not suitable if an original design is planned for the bathroom.

The most common bath location is when the bath is located in a niche between three walls. In this case, the bathtub bowl can be additionally attached to the floor or in the wall.

Let's consider the main methods of fastening for a stable position of a steel bathtub:

• The base for the bowl is made of brick;
• The frame for the bowl is assembled from a metal profile;
• A podium made of bricks or blocks is erected under the bowl;
• The bowl is attached to the walls.

Brick base for a steel bath

It is advisable to use a special moisture-resistant and durable brick for the base of the bathtub, since the bathroom usually has a high level of humidity.

In addition, the weight of the bowl itself plus the filled water requires a reliable foundation. To complete this job, you will need some tools: a cement mortar basin and a masonry trowel.

Let's consider the procedure for performing work on foundation installation

Before starting installation, it is necessary to determine in advance the height of the future foundation. The height of the side of the bath should not be higher than 70 cm, otherwise steps will need to be installed.

When installing the base on standard height you will need about 20 standard bricks, M400 cement - 0.5 buckets, about 2 buckets of sand.

Before starting the masonry, it is worth installing the bathtub first on legs in the place and position where you plan to install it. You need to check in advance correct installation siphon, adjust the required slope of the bowl to the drain hole. The place where the bathtub touches the wall should be marked in advance with a pencil in order to have the correct reference point. At the location where the base is installed, measure the distance from the bottom of the bowl to the floor and write down the numbers to adhere to the required dimensions.

After completing these preparatory work the bathtub should be taken out.

We begin the work on laying the foundation with the preparation of cement mortar. Mix cement and sand, add water little by little. You will need enough water so that the resulting working solution is soft enough. To make it more plastic, you can replace half of the required amount of cement with tile adhesive. This solution is more convenient for work and the strength after drying will be higher.

Now you can proceed directly to laying bricks. Let's assume that the distance from the bottom of the bowl to the floor at the back of the bath is 17 cm, and at the front - 16 cm. Width standard bath is 70 cm. The length of the brick legs should be less than the width of the bathtub, the top brick in the masonry should not reach the bottom of the bathtub by about 8-10 mm. The height of a standard brick is 7 cm, then for required height Two rows of masonry will be enough: 7+7=14 cm. The length of the brick is 24 cm, then for one row of masonry you will need 2.5 pieces: 24+24+12=60 cm. Since the distance to the bottom of the bowl is 17-16 cm , then along the top of the second row you will need to put another half or quarter of a brick (directly depends on the shape of the bowl.

Important! You can proceed directly to installing the bath after two days, which are necessary for the solution to completely set.

Now we have to prepare a cushion under the bathtub bowl; an additional layer of cement mortar is placed under the finished brick base so that it repeats the shape of the bottom of the bowl as accurately as possible. The layer of cement in the center should be more than 2 cm, since the solution will sag under the influence of gravity.

Where the edge of the bathtub meets the walls, it is advisable to add tile adhesive, laying it along the edge of the bathtub in the shape of a mound.

Place the bathtub bowl without legs on the prepared area and press it as tightly as possible against the walls. If excess tile adhesive appears on the bathtub, it must be quickly removed, as it sets very quickly. Check that the bathtub is installed correctly with a level (there should be a slight slope towards the drain). To do this, align the bowl in the required direction. Excess mortar may also appear under the bathtub and fall off the surface of the base. The solution should be returned to the original surface, the excess should be thrown away and do not forget to wipe the floor from any remaining cement.

Note! If the bathtub is long, you can additionally place another brick support in the middle of the bowl.

Installing a steel bathtub on brick supports

It is advisable to place brick supports under the bathtub if its width matches the width of the bathroom. First, brick supports are laid out, on which the bathtub bowl is then placed. If possible, you can use a combined method: lay out supports from bricks and make a bed for the bowl.

Fastening a steel bathtub to metal corners

This method can be used if the bathroom wall is made of durable material (brick, etc.). Two or three corners are fixed to the wall, on which the bath is then installed.

Securing the bathtub to the wall

Even if the bathtub stands quite firmly on legs, it would be a good idea to secure it additionally to the wall. To secure the bathtub bowl, you can use any fastener that the construction market offers in a large assortment.

If you still want to leave the legs under the bathtub, you can simply add additional lining to the bathtub bowl brickwork. However, do not forget that to access plumbing equipment you need to leave a window. In places where the steel bowl expands, the whole brick must be cut to the required size. The brick should not protrude beyond the edges of the bowl, so that it does not interfere with further tiling of the frame.

Installation on an additional wall profile frame

A frame made from a wall profile to secure a steel bathtub can be made in a few hours. This frame will help to further secure the bathtub, and it can then be sheathed. To complete the frame manufacturing work, it is necessary to outline the floor along the edge of the bowl.

If subsequent plating will be carried out PVC panels, then the markings need to be shifted to the thickness of the panel; if tiles are also used, then 2-3 mm should be added to the layer of tile adhesive.

Cut by required sizes The UD profile is fixed to the floor using dowels, and the CD profile is used to make the frame. To secure the bowl well, the profile must rest against the walls of the bowl. The wall profile will not firmly secure the bathtub, but it will be sufficient as additional support.

Manufacturing for a steel podium bathtub

To more reliably strengthen a steel bathtub, you can use a specially constructed podium. For its manufacture, you can use a variety of materials: brick, foam blocks, wooden beam, metal corner, profile pipe and other similar materials.

Note! For a small bathroom, such a podium will look inappropriate and uncomfortable. IN large room such a podium will perform several functions: reliably strengthen the steel bowl and serve as an additional decoration in the interior.

The most durable material for a podium is brick, but in houses with unreliable floors it is not always possible to use it. For the same reason, concrete is not suitable for the podium. Although wood or foam blocks are lighter than brick, these materials are easily destroyed when interacting with moisture. If you follow some recommendations, you can safely use the above materials in the manufacture of the podium.

Making a podium from foam blocks

The podium made of foam blocks must be made in such a way that the edges of the bathtub rest on the walls. The height of the podium is selected so that it is convenient to use the installed bathtub. Before use, foam blocks must be treated with special moisture-resistant impregnations, which will protect the material from destruction and protect against the appearance of fungus and mold.

Making a podium from wooden beams

Before use, the timber will need to be treated several times with a special protective impregnation. Additionally, it will be necessary to treat the places where the timber was cut. If the structure protrudes beyond the edges of the bowl, then a moisture-resistant sheet of plywood can be laid on the wooden beam.

To fasten the frame, you need to use only special stainless steel screws. Although the timber structure is quite strong, additional insurance will not be superfluous. The bathtub can be installed on additionally laid out stands or used for this purpose are the legs on which the bathtub bowl will rest.

Making a metal frame

The frame for the podium can be made from a metal corner or from profile pipe. This frame is durable and lightweight. The main disadvantage of this design is the need to weld individual parts during assembly, since using welding machine It’s not always possible in an apartment. And a frame welded outside the apartment, due to its size, may not fit through the doorway.

If no problems arise with such a frame, then it will be completely ready product should be pre-treated with anti-corrosion impregnation, primed and painted.

To prevent the structure from moving, it can be additionally secured to the wall or floor. After installing the steel bowl, you can begin covering the podium with plywood or other material.

If your podium is two-level or occupies a significant area, you can provide drawers or niches for storing toiletries.

In this article we looked at the main methods of fixing a steel bathtub. Thanks, you now know how to strengthen a steel bathtub with your own hands.

Video on how to install a steel bathtub with your own hands:

Instructions

First, let's look at the material from which the bathtub is made; your preferences will depend on this. further actions to secure it in place.

If you have a bathtub, then its undeniable advantage is durability; it also retains heat for a long time. However, it is incredibly heavy and not every floor can support it, so it is advisable to build a podium for it.

If the bathtub is made of steel, then it is much lighter, cheaper, easier to install, but its service life is shorter than that of cast iron. The significant disadvantages of such a bath include the noise that the water makes when you fill it. Even your neighbors can hear it. Therefore, before installation, it must be coated on the outside. It will dampen sounds and help keep you warm longer. Also, a steel bathtub quickly loses its attractiveness. appearance: The enamel comes off easily.

Another material from which bathtubs are made is acrylic. These baths are very comfortable, beautiful, non-slippery and retain heat well. But their main drawback is low strength. No matter how much manufacturers praise acrylic bathtubs, there have been cases when such a bathtub simply could not withstand the weight of an overweight person and its legs were pressed inward.

Most often, bathtubs are placed on legs. But the problem is that if you just place it on the floor, it will wobble while you take a bath, which is not very pleasant. What way out of this could there be? In the case of, build a podium in the place where it will be, so that the legs of the bath remain on the floor, and the podium supports only the bottom. The podium is made of brick and leveled using bubble level. Then, together with an assistant, install the bathtub on the podium and, if necessary, adjust the height of the legs; this will be easier to do, since now the bathtub rests not on them, but on the podium.

The general principles for installing and securing the bathtub are as follows:
* Place the bathtub on one side and install an overflow pipe on the outside in case the bathtub overflows, and an outlet in the bottom of the bathtub;

* Connect the floor siphon to the outlet and overflow of the bathtub;

* Now attach the legs to the bathtub and the siphon is inserted into the sewer pipe.

* Move the bathtub close to the walls

* Caulk the joint between the siphon and the drain;

* Place wooden plates under the legs of the bathtub so that the bathtub is installed with a slight inclination towards the drain, otherwise water will constantly accumulate inside the bathtub;

* Once the bathtub is securely fixed and the height is adjusted, it is necessary to seal the gaps between the bathtub bots and the walls using cement or putty. It is better to place a ceramic rim on top of the sealing layer.