A do-it-yourself compost bin is necessary for everyone who cultivates the soil or grows vegetables or fruits.

You can make such a box with your own hands in a day using one of the well-known technologies and solve the problem of storing waste, at the same time turning it into a nutrient medium for plants.

But before a pile of trash becomes compost, there's one step that needs to be taken: keeping it in a compost bin.

Where to begin?

Construction begins with a drawing. Some summer residents will be quite satisfied with a simple one.

But others do not want to spoil the landscape with an indecent pile of garbage in secluded corner and they put exactly the container: a garbage container, metal barrel- just to get the result. The design options are truly numerous.

But even with a task as simple as making your own compost bin, you can apply taste and create something that deserves its place on the backyard dachas

Any compost bin requires the following:

• compost needs air to mature;
• there must be a lid so that the rain does not wash away all the most useful things into the ground;
• there should be quick access to the lower layers of compost;
• must have a reliable bottom that will not rot (for example, a slate bottom);
• Wood should be used whenever possible;
• The compost matures quite quickly, so the box should be wide.

A compost container can be made from various materials:

• boxes of vegetables and fruits;
• plastic/metal barrels;
• plank boxes;
• wooden pallets.

Before you set up a place for compost, you need to understand the characteristics of the compost that you want to prepare.

Let’s not take into account organic matter and other ingredients now, but let’s pay attention to 4 factors that ultimately make up the correct, working compost: bacteria, moisture, air and time.

In order to combine all this in a box, the design in any situation and any material must have holes for ventilation (you can equip both the bottom and the walls or lid of the box with holes)!

If we consider options made from lumber or pallets, then first of all, the bottom of the container and the walls need to be properly dried in the sun and then seasoned with an antiseptic and hydrophobic impregnation so that the box lasts as long as possible.

To build a reliable box with your own hands, you need to take into account that its contents can be completely different.

So it is necessary to install a lid - both to protect the contents and more aesthetically pleasing in the surroundings of a dacha.

In spring and summer, at the peak of compost preparation, it will also protect the contents from high temperatures and maintain optimal humidity inside.

The construction of the box is only required to maintain optimal conditions“ripening” the fertilizer without your constant participation.

We have already dealt with the requirements of the composting technology itself, but in terms of manufacturing the design of the box itself, there are some nuances.

The whole thing is simple, but it’s better to make a box with your own hands once and for a long time.

Let's look at the design using an unedged board as an example:

• Each box must have four support posts and form simple design- box.
• The supports are dug into the ground and serve only as support for the entire structure;
• Bury the support so that the final height of the box is about 1.2 m (up to the height of the abdomen);
• The device should have dimensions of 1x1 m (exactly a cubic meter). There is simply no point in doing less;
• During construction, gaps are allowed (when filling boards with a gap);
• If you are building a dense structure “for centuries”, then at the end you will need to drill a lot of holes;
• The bottom of the box should be made of non-rotting material (for example, slate);
• At the bottom you need to build a door for quick unloading of the finished compost;
• Do not bury the container into the ground or allow the compost to come into contact with the soil;
• The bottom is a must! Otherwise, all the work goes in vain;
• Place the box out of direct sunlight.

The most suitable design- a familiar wooden box, tightly knocked together, with many holes, which has a door at the bottom.

It is advisable to make the door the width of the box, so that you can rake off the bottom layer at once and then add a new one on top. Important quality compost – its homogeneity and density.

When you open the door, it won’t fall out like things from a crowded closet.

Until we move on to consider practical example DIY making, a small technological find!

Remember drawer cabinets, tables. The same principle can be used: when the compost has matured, you press on such a box and it pushes a whole layer at a time into the side hole.

This kind of “feint,” if I may say so, can be performed in two versions:

• The press will always be outside. Consists of a longitudinal board/sheet of metal with convenient fastening; guides are not needed. But the downside of the design is that the handle will stick out from the outside;
• You put the drawer inside, but there will also be a pull-out sheet of plywood above it, with holes in it. The bottom layer has ripened - we pushed in the top partition - pulled out the bottom drawer - pushed the partition back - added a layer on top - opened the partition and waited for the next bottom layer to ripen.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

The time has come to consider in practice the whole manufacturing process. We will consider a device not of Finnish, but of conventional, Russian technology.

We will make a box and a three-dimensional cylinder from garden netting for the dacha.

Box, instructions

The drawing requires 4 bars 10 by 10 cm and 1 meter long. These will be the supporting corners of the box. We prepare 16 boards 5 by 15 cm, 1 meter long.

The boards will become the walls of the box (if the dimensions are larger, you will find out the quantity during the assembly process).

If you use 12 boards of the specified size, you will leave gaps of the same width for ventilation.

If possible, purchase one uniform piece of wood in 1 square meter area, or make it yourself by knocking down several dense boards and reinforcing them across with two or three boards.

We nail one 5x15 cm board to two 10x10 cm boards: place the two boards parallel and nail the 5x15 cm board with its ends to the parallel boards, so that the edges of the board are flush with the edges of the parallel boards.

At the end of knocking all the 5x15 cm boards onto two load-bearing, parallel 10x10 cm beams, we will get two beams with 4 perpendicular boards. Thus we received ¼ of our future box. The structure will consist of four pallets.

Do the second wall in the same sequence, similar to the first one.

Place the two walls vertically, parallel to each other, and connect the two walls to form the back wall using 4 more 5x15 cm boards.

Following the same pattern, nail the remaining 4 5x15 cm boards. Remember to offset the nails so that they do not collide in the wood. The bottom of the box is made of plywood/slate.

Place the lid we made in the second step above. The box is ready!

Collect 3 of these boxes and you will have enough compost for a whole season of work.

DIY mesh cylinder, instructions

Take a mesh 1 meter wide, and select the length based on the fact that when it is bent into a pipe, the optimal volume should be formed. The longer, the larger the volume of the final cylinder.

Prepare 4 bars 1.3 meters long, in a profile of 10 by 10 cm. They will become supports. 30 centimeters of length will be dug into the ground for stability.

Attach one edge of the mesh to the block, leaving 30 cm free. You can fasten it with a construction stapler or nails, bending the cap into the board.

Place the bars under the mesh and at the final bend - they should be outside the structure, but not inside!

Roll out the mesh until it is a perfect circle and the ends of the mesh touch each other.

Connect the junction of the ends of the mesh with a stapler or nails to a block. The bars must be parallel after fastening.

Place the resulting cylinder on the ground and attach the remaining 2 bars also in parallel.

The finished structure must be placed on a wooden stand, but not on the ground! Otherwise, the finished compost will begin to fertilize the soil directly under the structure itself.

Compost laying, maturing

Now that our box/cylinder is ready, we can start preparing the fertilizer:

• Lay down about 20 cm of a layer of brown material (hay, branches, shredded cardboard, leaves, sawdust, bark) for ventilation and drainage;
• Now add alternating brown material with green - tops, grass clippings, lawn clippings, kitchen waste, weeds;
• You can add cow dung, a little garden soil and a handful of earthworms;
• Do not compact the contents - they must breathe. Over time, the pile will compact under its own weight and you will add another layer;
• Water and shovel the compost regularly. Avoid stagnant water and ammonia odor. The latter indicates that there is too much green material and you need to add brown.
  After 2-3 months, the compost will have an earthy smell and will be ready for use.

But not all ingredients are good for compost!

If you are a summer resident or gardener, you have own plot where you are growing various types of plants, then you are concerned about the question of how to get a rich harvest.

Of course, there is only one answer - fertilizing the soil to increase fertility. You can buy fertilizer, or you can prepare it yourself. In this article we will look at how to make garden composter with your own hands.

What is a composter for?

Prepare high-quality humus or organic fertilizer Any gardener who cares about the fertility of the soil on his site can do it. To obtain such fertilizer or compost, you will need a composter.

Thus, a composter is a container for preparing compost, which can increase soil fertility and the productivity of cultivated crops.

Of course, you will need to put material into the composter. What can act as ingredients for making compost? Common organic waste: green and mown grass, straw, manure, waste kitchen table, paper, branches and roots.

You might be interested in an article about

About how to make garden shredder do it yourself, read

Device types

Garden composters are very popular and in demand. There are types of composters that you can buy and make yourself.

Plastic composter

There are 4 main types:

1. compost pit;
2. wooden box;
3. Plastic container;
4. thermocomposter.

You can purchase a plastic container and a thermal composter in specialized stores for gardeners.

A plastic container is a small container with holes for ventilation or oxygen access inside. Such composters are lightweight, convenient, and fit well into the landscape of your site.

A thermocomposter is something like a thermos. It retains heat well and its advantage is that chemical processes in such a composter they pass all year round. And even in severe frosts, the process does not stop in such a container.

If we talk about such types of composters as a compost pit and a wooden box, they are made independently and located in your garden plot.

Manufacturing instructions

If you have a little free time and the desire to make a composter yourself, you will not have any particular difficulties in this. With my own hands without special effort You can design two types of composters: a wooden box and a compost pit. Now about each one specifically.

Wooden box. To make this type of composter you will need:

Wooden compost bin

• wooden blocks(preferably 10x10 for greater stability);
• boards;
• nails or screws;
• awnings;
• impregnation for wood against mold and rot;
• sand;
• cement.

After you have purchased all the necessary building material, you can proceed to:

1. Device drainage system. A small depression is made, the perimeter is filled with cement mortar, and the center of the hole is filled with crushed stone, sand, branches and straw.
2. Installation wooden box. The height of the box should be no more than 120-150 cm, width 1.5 meters, length at your discretion, but not less than width. These sizes are the most optimal for maintaining the microclimate inside the composter. In this case, the boards need to be knocked down with a gap of several centimeters between them, for subsequent ventilation of the embedded raw materials.
3. Construction of the lid. The cover is necessary in order to rainwater did not enter the composter, which could slow down the composting process and reduce quality finished product. The lid should be inclined to allow water to drain, so when constructing a wooden box, the back bars should be 20-30 cm higher than the front ones.
4. Wood processing. The compost bin must be treated with a soaking liquid for a longer period of its use. As a result, you will have a ready-made composter into which you can add ingredients for making compost.

Compost pit. There are two options:

compost pit

1. 1. With wooden base. A hole 1 meter deep, 1.5 meters wide and 2 or more meters long is dug in the ground. The bottom is covered with large branches, tree bark and straw. They will later act as a drainage system, removing excess moisture and supplying the necessary oxygen. Then four pillars are dug in around the perimeter, onto which boards are laid.

There should also be gaps of up to 5 centimeters between the boards. Gaps between the boards are made not only for oxygen access, but also for the entry of worms involved in the process of processing organic raw materials.

1. With a concrete base. The same hole is dug, the formwork is knocked down, and then filled with strong cement mortar. To improve the composting process, you will need to introduce worms into such a composter yourself. The advantage of such a composter is that its service life exceeds the service life of other types of homemade composters.

Take into account: The process of composting raw materials until complete rotting will take about two years.

Experienced gardeners advise making a long garden composter, consisting of three compartments:

1. In the first one you will have new raw materials for compost.
2. The second will contain last year’s raw materials, which are at the stage of decay.
3. The third contains ready-made compost.

This way, every year you can use compost to fertilize the soil of your site.

Watch the video that describes how to properly use a DIY garden composter:

compost pit- This is a place for recycling organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, garden waste decomposes in it, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilizer. In this article we will look at options for making a compost pit with your own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of simple heaps of garbage, are present on every personal plot. But correct designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from household scraps. building materials available at the dacha.

Principles of constructing a compost pit

The main function of a compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, and earthworms, the quantity of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, the inside of the compost heap must be maintained fairly heat and humidity with a regular supply of oxygen.

To do this, the compost container must have the following design features:

Compost bins are made from any available materials. These can be boards, slate scraps, corrugated sheets, metal construction mesh and even car tires. More permanent structures are built from brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable waste disposal units in metal or plastic barrels.

Main sanitary requirement when constructing a compost pit, its distance is 20 meters from reservoirs and sources drinking water. Rain streams should not flow from the compost heap in the direction of wells, boreholes, and swimming pools.

Choosing a site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of infection groundwater, a threat to human and animal health. Do not place the compost bin in wetlands or areas with standing water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully painted boards, fenced with plantings of loach and perennial, ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

In a garden or personal plot, you can use the most simple tools make a high-quality structure and turn a pile of garden waste and decomposing household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are the most different kinds compost heaps, from earthen ditches to actual concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost bin:

1. A site is selected in the ground away from residential buildings.
2. On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, remove upper layer turf and soil.
3. The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
4. The bottom is filled sand cushion to drain excess water.

The first layer serves as drainage and promotes aeration of the pile and consists of trimmed branches.

The following are laid on them in layers:

• cut grass;
• dry leaves;
• sawdust;
• household food waste;
• manure;
• weeds.

The layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil and spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to chop all the ingredients before adding them, simply chopping them with a shovel.

The total height of the pile should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with covering material or a slate shield. In hot weather, the pile is watered with ordinary water.

IN natural conditions microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons. This is the simplest and economical way obtaining compost.

Use EM drugs. A temperature of +4°C inside the compost heap is sufficient for microorganisms to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from boards

For ease of use and speeding up the recycling process, the compost container is made of boards. Optimal size compost bin 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

Place garbage in such a container through the top general principle, starting from the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost from below.

Photo: drawing of a compost box, composter diagram

Options for compost pits made from boards

Slate is durable and perfect for the walls of a compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a slate composter:

1. Markings are made at the location of the compost heap and deepen the sheets cut to size. They can be secured with external, wooden or iron sheathing.
2. In another option, metal pipes are buried in the ground. A frame of bars is attached to them. The outside is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to avoid rotting. A cover for the pit is made from plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the hole with film or garden covering material.

Compost pit made of corrugated sheets

When making a compost bin from corrugated sheets, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

1. At the selected location, a base is constructed from a metal or wooden block.
2. The dimensions of the pit are selected according to the length of the sheets, which allows you to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
3. The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
4. On the outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
5. It must be taken into account that the metal surface gets very hot during hot summer periods.
6. A cover of plywood or boards is made on top. It is advisable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Metal mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

To simplify, you can put a large film bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste according to the principle of a compost pit. Compost can also be made in special bags, which are sold in garden centers.

Concreted compost pit

A concrete compost pit creates many advantages:

• Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
• Such a pit is durable and reliable, not subject to the influence of adverse natural conditions.

It is advisable to make it large, with two or even three compartments. In the first and second blocks, compost from different seasons will ripen. In the third, bags of finished compost are stored.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

During operation concrete pit It should be taken into account that the process of making compost is slow. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special products.

Other material options for compost pits

Compost pit made from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron barrels are great for composting:

1. We cut out both bottoms with a chisel and place them near the path.
2. We put weeds, grass clippings, and kitchen waste into the barrel in layers.
3. To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black and pour a solution of ammonium nitrate onto the compost (a matchbox in a bucket of water).
4. We take out the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

1. Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
2. Then we put them on the butt and connect them with wire or rope. Cover the top with a lid.
3. The advantages of this design are that the contents of the barrel are easily accessible to worms and bacteria from below.
4. To get the finished compost you just need to untie the rope and you will get two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

The ideal compost bin material is plastic. In regular compost heaps, the compost takes two years to prepare. In plastic barrels with a capacity of 150-200 liters, you can prepare liquid compost in two weeks.

For this:

1. Fill the barrel halfway with mowed grass or weeds, and fill it with water to the top.
2. After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
3. After using the solution, you can add water to the barrel again and let it brew for one week.
4. Having used up the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is placed in a compost heap.

Brick compost pit

The compost pit is made of brick and has three walls. It can be done on cement mortar or without it. A compost pit using cement mortar is made no more than 1 meter high. Gaps must be left between the bricks for ventilation.

A compost pit made of bricks without a cement binder is convenient in that it can be moved to another location if necessary.

In the compost pit, you need to provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from available material. The front wall is made temporary to make it convenient to remove the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

In the internal cavity concrete ring You can successfully store garden waste and end up with compost. For comfort the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

One of the disadvantages of the design is the lack of a low front wall. To unload the finished compost you need to climb inside. Otherwise, such reinforced concrete products make very durable compost chambers.

Compost pit using Finnish technology

If you don’t want to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter at Finnish technology. It is modern with two containers with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.

When the container is full, it is pulled out and another one is inserted. Due to its high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with soil or sand and fertilized with plants. The vacated container is washed and returned to its place.

Compost pits and cesspools should not be confused. Organic matter is stored in containers for preparing compost. garden plot. Remains of protein food should be disposed of in a cesspool.

What can and cannot be put in a compost bin?

Thanks to composting, the amount of waste in landfills is reduced, and our gardens and gardens receive additional fertilizers.

First of all, organic garden waste is placed in the compost pit, in the form of:

• branches;
• dry leaves;
• mown grass;
• weeds;
• straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

• food leftovers from vegetarian food;
• egg shells;
• onion peel.

You can layer the compost with manure and chicken droppings.

Prohibited compost heap ingredients include:

• construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
• remnants of printed products;
• plastic.

Do not put leftover protein and oily foods into compost, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues, weeds with ripened seeds and roots that can take root well, such as:

• sow thistle;
• wheatgrass;
• loach.

Drought-tolerant plants need to be dried out before being placed in the compost heap so that they lose their ability to take root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it decomposes slowly and takes up nitrogen. They also do not use feces of domestic animals or humans for composting.

Preparations for compost pit

The main task of drugs containing biological activators is to accelerate decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job of processing organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

1. Compost preparation can be significantly accelerated by using Baikal EM. This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
2. The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They process organic matter into humus, and also prevent pathogenic microflora from developing and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
3. The bioactivator has similar properties. The Green-Master bioactivator package should be diluted in 20 liters warm water, let it sit for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks you need to turn the pile over with a pitchfork. To prepare compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is sufficient.
4. Compost Boost gives good results. for composting.
5. Manufacturer Happy summer resident produces "Biocompostin"– a means for preparing compost. Sanex Plus produces EcoCompost.
6. The manufacturer Dezon Bio K produces several types of drugs:“Green universal”, “Compost for one season”, “Compost for the next agricultural season”, “Bioactivator for compost”.

Using preparations you can significantly speed up microbiological processes and obtain compost in 2-3 months.

Bioactivator preparations for compost

Rules for operating a compost pit

After building a compost bin and filling it, all that remains is to occasionally look inside and, depending on the changes that occur, adjust the decomposition process.

Tips for using the composter:

1. During dry periods, it is necessary to water the compost with plain water. preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of certain types of beneficial bacteria.
2. You should loosen your compost heap at least once every two weeks., thereby ensuring an influx of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
3. Add “Effective Microorganisms” to the compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
4. To speed up the process, you can add ready-made compost substrate, which contains full complex microbiological activators.
5. If the pit design does not have top cover , then just tighten top part covering garden material black, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the structure.

Summarizing

Creating a compost pit does not require serious material investments. You can make it with my own hands from scrap materials, which are always sufficient in any personal plot.

Having spent a little time making a compost pit, you will not have to deal with the problems of disposing of garden and household waste in the future.

Composters for your dacha are easy to make with your own hands. This could be a compost pit, a box, a device made of slate or wooden pallets, or a rotating plastic barrel.

The content of the article:

The composter allows you to obtain natural organic fertilizer. Rotten remains turn into a dark, loose substance that is very nutritious for plants. Exist various options composter devices. It all depends on the availability of materials, on how quickly you need to turn organic residues into fertilizer.

A composter for a summer residence - what it can be

The simplest option is a compost pit. Decide on the size, estimating approximately how much it will cost summer season you can put plant residues here.

1. Dig a hole, it's better if there is one rectangular shape, this one is easier to sheathe. Stepping back 20 cm from the bottom, strengthen the side walls of the compost pit suitable materials. It can be hardboard, slate, old iron, boards. The bottom of the excavation is not covered with such materials so that microorganisms earthworms had access here.
2. If the soil is clayey, you may not need to line the sides of the pit. To create drainage, place large branches down plant remains, such as stems from large flowers, Jerusalem artichoke, sunflower. You will pour plant residues on top of them; if they are large, then you need to chop them first.
3. To make the compost ripen faster, water it occasionally with a special drug, accelerating this process. Experts recommend adding a small amount of fertilizer from time to time. Water the compost periodically to prevent it from drying out.
4. Cover it with black on top plastic film, then the rotting process will go faster and an unpleasant odor will not spread.

The compost bin has a disadvantage. The flow of oxygen is obstructed here; to eliminate this, insert a pipe with holes made in it in advance. You can make 2-4 of these.

If you don’t want to work on making a hole or digging it, then you can put the compost directly in a pile.

It will need to be watered periodically to prevent it from drying out. The big disadvantage of setting up such a mini warehouse is the smell. Therefore, it is better to build the sidewalls in advance from stone, slate, boards or iron, and cover the top with film.

The following year, such compost usually does not yet ripen, but is excellent soil for the growth of pumpkin crops. Plant zucchini or pumpkins here and you will be surprised at the abundance of the harvest.

At the beginning of autumn, this ripened substance can be used as an organic additive when planting strawberries, bulbous flowers, and seedlings. Or you can leave this compost until next spring, then add it to the holes and beds when planting.

Pumpkins love to grow in a warm garden bed. You can make a composter and her at the same time. Dig a rectangular depression the size of the bed, line its inner sides with slate so that it rises above the surface of the ground. To secure the slate, drive metal rods into the soil and connect them to a base of wooden blocks.

You will put organic residues here all summer, periodically sprinkle them with a small amount of soil. It can be put aside in advance when you dig a trench. To spring next year you will turn out beautiful warm bed, which it will be enough to loosen and pumpkin crops can be planted here. Cucumbers will grow great.

How to make a compost bin with your own hands?

See how a slate-lined compost pit is made. This needs to be reinforced with metal posts.

You can make a box from this material, strengthening it with metal or wooden posts on the outside.

Pallet composter

This is one of the most simple options its buildings. Since there is a distance between the boards of the pallets, oxygen will penetrate here unhindered, and ripening will proceed faster. Availability must be taken into account unpleasant odor rotting. Therefore, it is better to make such a device away from the house and recreation area. A General requirements When choosing a site for a composter, this is a distance of 10 m from residential buildings, and 20 m from a water supply source.

To make a pallet composter you will need:

• 4 pallets;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver

Decide where you will place it.

It is better not to place the compost bin under the scorching rays of the sun so that its contents do not dry out. Place it in shade or partial shade.

Place two pallets vertically at 90 degree angles to each other and connect them with screws or nails.

Knock down the top corners first and then the bottom corners.

In the same way, connect two more pallets, you will get a quadrangle into which you can put compost.

if you have wooden pallets, but you don't want to use them that way, then make your compost bin differently. First you need to disassemble the pallets using a nail puller.

You will have boards that will subsequently need to be arranged as shown in the next photo.

As you can see, it will be necessary to make grooves in the boards in order to assemble them according to the construction set principle. The following markings will help you with this.

Two racks will be corner ones, you need to make recesses in them, based on the last photo. The remaining grooves need to be made as in the first of three photographs, and the front wall will be slightly inclined, so the notches need to be made in the corners.

Allocate a flat area for the box, place the 4 bottom boards of the base level, using a level.

After that install 2 vertical racks front, start assembling the box.

This compost bin is quite mobile; you can move it to any point on the site. Pour compost here, loosen it periodically to provide air access and speed up the ripening of the substance.

To be able to extract ready-made fertilizer Without spending much effort on this, even when constructing the compost bin, provide an opening or lifting bottom door. Then you can expose the content below, which will be ready faster than the top.

Three-section composter

You can make a compost bin for your garden, consisting of 3 sections. This design is very convenient because while the contents of the first one are rotting, you will have time to fill the remaining sections. Then you remove the finished compost and you have room to fill the next one.

If you don't feel like doing back wall, then you can turn a fence wall into it, as in this case.

Then it will be necessary to attach wooden blocks to the racks, also wooden beam needs to be placed on the other side. These four posts will support the front wall.

Stack boards between parallel wooden posts so you have three sections of compost bin.

The two small side walls will be completely closed, but the front one will not be completely closed. You'll soon find out why. Make an opening lid that doubles as a roof. Make it not whole, but consisting of 3 parts. Attach a handle to each to open the drawer when needed.

You also need to make small opening doors on the front panel. This makes it easier to add and remove ready-made compost.

Paint the box and you'll have a composter that looks great on your yard.

If you want to get it done quickly, then you can return to the ideas with pallets. We will need 3 pieces, fasten them together with wire, and the two side walls should have an emphasis. In this case, it is supported by a fence on one side and a porch on the other.

Composter in 10 minutes

If you have one small space, then you can also build a compost bin, but it is better to place it away from the front area, and near the outbuilding, as there may be a smell of rotting.

Typically, complete ripening of compost in such devices occurs in 1–2 years. To speed up this process, you can make a composter from plastic barrel. Then the valuable organic fertilizer will be ready in 1–2 months.

How to make a composter from a plastic barrel?

To make such a waste recycling device, take:

• plastic barrel;
• large nails;
• latches;
• window hinges;
• galvanized pipe;
• durable boards;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts with washers.

Drill one hole in the center of the lid of the barrel, and the other opposite, in the middle of the bottom. Use a round drill bit for this.

Take a pipe whose length is slightly longer than the height of the barrel and thread it into the resulting hole.

Cut a rectangular hole in the container that will become the door. To do this, attach hinges on one side, and two latches on the sides and bottom, with the help of which you will close the door. To make it easy to open, make a handle from a cord.

Now use a drill to make many holes on the surface of the barrel to ensure air flow. Insert large nails into some of them. Then, when you spin the barrel, they will help the contents mix better.

Build a pedestal for your structure from the boards. To do this, place two boards crosswise and connect them in the center. Make another similar blank, fasten the resulting crosses at the bottom with two strong thick boards.

Then you need to place the barrel so that there is a metal axis on the wooden crosses.

You can attach a handle to make it easier to rotate the barrel. This should be done once every few days.

Fill the container with organic residues, rotate periodically, and the compost will be ready in no time.

Check out other options for such devices.

As you can see, you can secure the container vertically by threading metal pipe through the large sides.

And if you want two composters at once, then place them one above the other, secure them to metal bars, the lower ends of which are cemented into the soil.

You can fix a metal pipe on wooden trestles like this. It is convenient to move such a mobile barrel from place to place when there is no internal content.

And if you want to move the container with ease, then you can install it on a board with roller wheels attached.

If you don't have a barrel, but have a trash can that is no longer needed, then you can make a composter out of it. The tank must be mounted on wooden boards, secured to them with a metal pin or pipe made of this material.

Here's how to make your own composter using a variety of ideas. If you want another one, then watch the next master class.

By the way, for such a device you can use a large-capacity drum taken from a broken washing machine.

The next composter at the dacha is also quite simple to make; over time, it can turn into a vertical bed.

The problem of waste recycling is increasingly relevant in modern world. According to statistics, the bulk of them are organic. Despite the scale of the problem, everyone is able to contribute to its solution and, at the same time, receive real benefits. Any dacha owner can turn waste into excellent fertilizer and minimum cost funds. An excellent option would be to make a composter yourself using Finnish technology. Let's look at all the intricacies of this matter in more detail.

A garden composter is a design that will not take much effort to make, but you must follow the manufacturing technology and adhere to the design. There are several very important points For proper organization process, including the mandatory access of oxygen to organic matter, maintaining humidity at about 55% and the presence organic matter containing nitrogen, because it is critically necessary for bacteria that process waste. The content of the material itself stored in the container can be very diverse and include food waste, leaves, grass, manure and others.

The box itself should have a volume of 1-3 m with the same height, width and length. Essentially, a capacity is a cube. The entire structure must be removed at least 12 meters from buildings and 8 meters from water sources. It is also very important that it is located in a place where it cannot be flooded during rain.

Necessary materials

The most the best solution in this matter there will be a tree. Of course, slate is sometimes used, but it cannot provide suitable quality and reliability, so we will focus on the first option. Among possible options diagrams of a garden composter for a summer house, a three-section box is perfect. The list of everything you need to get started can be presented as follows:

1. Sturdy board for the base. It should be dense enough to support the mass of compost.
2. Wooden boards with dimensions 10 * 3 * 100 cm in the amount of 45 pieces (it is better to take 50 pieces as a reserve in case of damage) and 10 * 3 * 300 cm - 25 units. This is enough to do everything without worrying about running out of material.
3. There are 8 pieces of timber, having the following characteristics: width - 5 cm, thickness - 5 cm, length - 100 cm.
4. An antiseptic product intended for wood. In this case, you should make a choice based on parameters such as quality and harmlessness to environment, which is critical for a dacha.
5. To properly fasten the structure you will need 12 window hinges overhead type and screws.
6. Oil paint. A garden composter, like any other object, should fit beautifully into the exterior.

Video “How to make compost with your own hands”

In this view you can see how to make compost with your own hands and what it looks like when finished.

Features of Finnish technology

In this case, the process of “ripening” differs from that in a regular pit. There are several important points that must be taken into account. Firstly, filling the compartments must begin from the first. During the extraction of compost mass, it is filled from the neighboring one, accordingly, the cycle becomes continuous. Secondly, all material in the first compartment should be stirred regularly for uniform “ripening”.

For those who are going to use weeds as one of the ingredients (and they, unfortunately, are not uncommon in the country), let us clarify that it is better to place them in the middle, because the high temperature during decomposition will not allow their seeds to remain capable of germinating.

Finally, don't forget to do good watering in hot and dry weather to maintain the desired level of humidity. If you follow everything the necessary conditions, you can count not only on a place for the proper disposal of organic waste, but also on receiving fertilizer that will significantly increase the yield in your garden plot.

How to arrange a three-section box

Now that we've got everything covered necessary materials and got acquainted with the features of Finnish technology, let's figure out what needs to be done to assemble the structure itself. It is required to carry out the following steps step by step:

1. Handle wooden boards antiseptic, following the instructions in the instructions.
2. Next, we begin assembling the side walls. For all four we use screws as fastenings.
3. The walls made in the previous step need to be sheathed with boards, two of them closely, and the rest with a gap of 10 mm.
4. Secure those boards that are prepared for the back side. In this case, you need to leave a 10mm gap.
5. The next step is to make the bottom. During the fastening process, you will also need to leave a gap of up to 10 mm.
6. Afterwards, we sheathe it in front of the board and leave 20 cm below where the doors will be placed.
7. We install the roof. This must be done taking into account the fact that on one side there will be several hatches for introducing organic waste.
8. At the finish, we attach the lower doors and hatches, which completes the process of assembling the garden composter.